Hello,

What a great Newsgroup.

I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
old or so.
No idea what brand.

It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)

But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.

Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work it
just fine ?

Or,... ?

BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and not
the typical 110 V house voltage ?

I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this indoor
pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?

Thanks,
Bob

My parents have a garage door opener. The wire from the indoor button is
easy enough to trace. In your case, it should be easy enough to unwire the
indoor button wire from the side of the door opener. And then, cross the two
screws with a short piece of wire. If the opener cycles, you know to look at
the indoor wire and switch.

Need to isolate, is it the opener, or the wire, or the switch. All this can
be done with a ladder, screw driver, short wire, and then a VOM to test
various things.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello,

What a great Newsgroup.

I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
old or so.
No idea what brand.

It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)

But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.

Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work it
just fine ?

Or,... ?

BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and not
the typical 110 V house voltage ?

I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this indoor
pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?

Thanks,
Bob

Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

What a great Newsgroup.

I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
old or so.
No idea what brand.

It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)

But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.

Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work
it just fine ?

Or,... ?

BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and
not the typical 110 V house voltage ?

I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this
indoor pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?


1. The voltage is almost certainly 12V.
2. It is unlikely to be fused.
3. The most common culprit is the push-button switch. Replace it with a
doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.
4. While you're at it, add another switch (in parallel) so that you can
activate the door from either the people door or just inside the car access
door.

On 3/28/2012 8:24 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

What a great Newsgroup.

I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
old or so.
No idea what brand.

It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)

But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.

Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work
it just fine ?

Or,... ?

BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and
not the typical 110 V house voltage ?

I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this
indoor pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?


1. The voltage is almost certainly 12V.
Probably not 12, but usually 24 VAC. There are usually 2 terminals
(usually
screw type) where low voltage buttons can be connected. If these terminals
are shorted together, it should activate the opener.
2. It is unlikely to be fused.
Yup. The transformer providing the low voltage might be fused. These are
buried in the transformer itself, however, if it works from the radio
remotes,
it's probably not that.
3. The most common culprit is the push-button switch. Replace it with a
doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.
I'd bet on a broken wire, but those doorbell buttons are sure made cheap.
4. While you're at it, add another switch (in parallel) so that you can
activate the door from either the people door or just inside the car access
door.

On 3/28/2012 8:57 AM, Art Todesco wrote:
On 3/28/2012 8:24 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

What a great Newsgroup.

I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
old or so.
No idea what brand.

It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)

But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.

Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work
it just fine ?

Or,... ?

BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and
not the typical 110 V house voltage ?

I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this
indoor pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?


1. The voltage is almost certainly 12V.
Probably not 12, but usually 24 VAC. There are usually 2 terminals (usually
screw type) where low voltage buttons can be connected. If these terminals
are shorted together, it should activate the opener.
2. It is unlikely to be fused.
Yup. The transformer providing the low voltage might be fused. These are
buried in the transformer itself, however, if it works from the radio remotes,
it's probably not that.
3. The most common culprit is the push-button switch. Replace it with a
doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.
I'd bet on a broken wire, but those doorbell buttons are sure made cheap.
4. While you're at it, add another switch (in parallel) so that you can
activate the door from either the people door or just inside the car access
door.



In my experience 24V is pretty much a given but depending on age and maker
it might be either AC or DC. I have two Craftsman openers which are
actually made by Chaimberlain. The old one, in the shop side, is vintage
mid-70s and the control wiring is AC while the newer one, in the garage
side, is vintage late 90s and is DC. Both are approximately 24V. When I
replumbed and rewired everything in the area in preparation for finally
properly sheet-rocking the ceiling I discovered this and had to kludge the
wiring to my homebrew LED-lit pushbutton panel by adding diodes along with
the current-limiting resistors to allow either variety to work properly.

In answer to the OP, if you short across the switch control terminals at
the back of the opener and the door operates then either the external
wiring or switch is defective. If you short across the switch terminals at
the switch and the door operates then your switch is probably defective. I
say probably because it just might be that both wiring and switch are bad
although the probability is low.

On 3/28/2012 8:35 AM, John McGaw wrote:
....

... If you short across the switch terminals
at the switch and the door operates then your switch is probably
defective. I say probably because it just might be that both wiring and
switch are bad although the probability is low.

If on the switch terminals at the switch and it operates, the wiring has
to be ok from there to the opener so can only be internal if anywhere
there's a wiring fault...other than a loose connection that makes w/ the
external pressure, I suppose is a really remote possibility.

Other than that nit, good synopsis of how to isolate where the culprit
lies...

--

On 3/28/2012 6:08 AM, Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

What a great Newsgroup.

I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
old or so.
No idea what brand.

It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)

But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.

Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work it
just fine ?

Or,... ?

BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and not
the typical 110 V house voltage ?

I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this indoor
pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?

Thanks,
Bob

It's possible that a staple securing the wire may have cut through the
insulation and shorted the line thus blowing a fuse for the low voltage
control. Then there are rodents that love to chew on soft plastic for
some odd reason. I have repaired many a low voltage cable that was the
object of affection of a teething mouse. ^_^

TDD

TDD

"HeyBub" wrote in message
news:RvCdnZYiw9mMnu7SnZ2dnUVZ_g-

stuff snipped

3. The most common culprit is the push-button switch. Replace it with a
doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.

+1 Finger oil infiltrates PB switches over time, especially one with nearly
flush buttons where there's little distance between the button surface and
the surrounding opening. The OP might be able to clean it out but I would
suggest replacing it.

--
Bobby G.

On Mar 29, 11:08*pm, "Robert Green"
wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message

news:RvCdnZYiw9mMnu7SnZ2dnUVZ_g-

stuff snipped

3. The most common culprit is the push-button switch. Replace it with a
doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.

+1 *Finger oil infiltrates PB switches over time, especially one with nearly
flush buttons where there's little distance between the button surface and
the surrounding opening. *The OP might be able to clean it out but I would
suggest replacing it.

--
Bobby G.


You must have some fingers that are just dripping grease.
I'm having a hard time seeing how finger oil could ever get
to the actual contacts inside the switch.

On Mar 29, 11:08*pm, "Robert Green"
wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message

news:RvCdnZYiw9mMnu7SnZ2dnUVZ_g-

stuff snipped

3. The most common culprit is the push-button switch. Replace it with a
doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.

+1 *Finger oil infiltrates PB switches over time, especially one with nearly
flush buttons where there's little distance between the button surface and
the surrounding opening. *The OP might be able to clean it out but I would
suggest replacing it.

--
Bobby G.

Finger oil? Really?

I'd be more apt to blame a faulty GDO switch on corrosion (read: rust)
- I've seen it many times.

Seems like finger oil would lubricate the switch (yuck!) and make it
work better as opposed to destroying it.

Hello,

Do they "usually" have a fuse on the low voltage ?

Realize they are all probably different, but generally:
What type of fush style ? Amps ?

Haven't been able (with my back) to get up there.

Thanks,
Bob

On Mar 30, 6:53*pm, Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Do they "usually" have a fuse on the low voltage ?

I've never seen one that had a fuse on the low voltage
for the push button, electric eye, etc.


Realize they are all probably different, but generally:
What type of fush style ? * Amps ?

Haven't been able (with my back) to get up there.

Thanks,
Bob

Someone a few posts back outlined the testing
procedure, starting with disconnecting the button
and touching the wires together.

On 03/30/12 6:53 PM, Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Do they "usually" have a fuse on the low voltage ?

Realize they are all probably different, but generally:
What type of fush style ? Amps ?

Haven't been able (with my back) to get up there.

Thanks,
Bob

Before climbing up anywhere, have you tried any of the other suggestions?

As I said in a earlier post that appears not to have made it through due
to Google issues...

Start by testing the switch: Remove one wire from the back of the switch
and touch it to the other. If the GDO operates, the switch is bad.
Change it.

If the GDO doesn't operate when you short the wires at the switch, short
the terminals that those wires go to at the GDO. Get a short piece of
wire and touch it to both screws at the same time. If the GDO operates,
the wire from the switch is bad. (maybe the switch too, but I doubt it)

If the GDO doesn't operate, that part of GDO is bad.

If that's the case, and based on the fact that the remotes work, simply
buy a generic remote, program it and stick it on the wall.

No need to go digging for an internal fuse that, if it even exists, is
probably soldered onto the board.

Start simple: Odds are it's the switch.

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 06:17:48 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Mar 29, 2:05Â*am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
On 3/28/2012 6:08 AM, Robert11 wrote:





Hello,

What a great Newsgroup.

I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
old or so.
No idea what brand.

It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)

But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.

Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work it
just fine ?

Or,... ?

BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and not
the typical 110 V house voltage ?

I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this indoor
pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?

Thanks,
Bob

It's possible that a staple securing the wire may have cut through the
insulation and shorted the line thus blowing a fuse for the low voltage
control. Then there are rodents that love to chew on soft plastic for
some odd reason. I have repaired many a low voltage cable that was the
object of affection of a teething mouse. ^_^

TDD

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Would shorting the wire from the push button really blow a fuse?

No, it would make the GDO buzz

Doesn't pushing the button short the wire?
Yes

I guess that you're implying that a *prolonged* short, such as
pressing the button for too long, would also blow the fuse.

Except it has no fuse.

If that were the case, I think that there would be a lot of blown
fuses in GDO's considering the millions upon millions of buttons being
pressed across the globe over time. *somebody* has to be holdng those
buttons down for too long.

I'm just speculating here, but it seems to me that the circuit would
be protected by something other than a fuse, like the use of momentary
contacts, so that a prolonged press of the button would not cause a
problem.

If everyone would please test that for me and report your findings,
I'd appreciate it. ;-)

On Fri, 30 Mar 2012 06:28:17 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Mar 29, 11:08Â*pm, "Robert Green"
wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message

news:RvCdnZYiw9mMnu7SnZ2dnUVZ_g-

stuff snipped

3. The most common culprit is the push-button switch. Replace it with a
doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.

+1 Â*Finger oil infiltrates PB switches over time, especially one with nearly
flush buttons where there's little distance between the button surface and
the surrounding opening. Â*The OP might be able to clean it out but I would
suggest replacing it.

--
Bobby G.


You must have some fingers that are just dripping grease.
I'm having a hard time seeing how finger oil could ever get
to the actual contacts inside the switch.
Likewize - but do NOT try to use a "lighted" doorbell switch. In MOST
cases it will cause the exact problem you are trying to solve - or
possibly even render the remotes useless as well.

I just measured the voltage between the terminals on the back of the Sears Craftsman's GDO and it's 9.5 volts. When I push the remote button it drops to 8.5 volts.

wrote:
I just measured the voltage between the terminals on the back of the Sears Craftsman's GDO and it's 9.5 volts. When I push the remote button it drops to 8.5 volts.

Hi,
That means button is working. Some thing wrong with the GDO?
Push button is momentary closing contacts. Maybe yoru meter
is not fast enough to see the voltage at the exact moment
the button contacts close.

On Thu, 24 Oct 2013 10:19:37 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I just measured the voltage between the terminals on the back of the Sears Craftsman's GDO and it's 9.5 volts. When I push the remote button it drops to 8.5 volts.

Good to know. Does the door open and the next time close when you
push the button?

On Thursday, October 24, 2013 1:19:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I just measured the voltage between the terminals on the back of the Sears Craftsman's GDO and it's 9.5 volts. When I push the remote button it drops to 8.5 volts.

Some of the newer ones the button actually signals the unit. My new craftsman (really chamberlain) has that. All the older ones are just a regular push button. If you hold down a regular push button the voltage should drop to 0 because you are shorting out the two terminals. The wiring resistance is negilible so you should see the short at the terminals.