I'm used to Naval Jelly and wire brushes / drill attachments for small rust
issues, but how does one deal with bigger areas?

I've never owned a bench grinder, and recently got an older used unit complete
with pedestal stand. The motor runs smoothly and I'm pleased at having spent
a whopping forty bucks for a tool that will be of some use to me.

But the pedestal base is quite rusty, with the underside of the base
especially bad. I'd say this would be described as severely rusty.

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? I know I could say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Art

On Feb 15, 4:29*pm, (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:
I'm used to Naval Jelly and wire brushes / drill attachments for small rust
issues, but how does one deal with bigger areas?

I've never owned a bench grinder, and recently got an older used unit complete
with pedestal stand. *The motor runs smoothly and I'm pleased at having spent
a whopping forty bucks for a tool that will be of some use to me.

But the pedestal base is quite rusty, with the underside of the base
especially bad. *I'd say this would be described as severely rusty.

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? *I know I could say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Art

Use this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...der-91223.html

with this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...kit-90976.html

$30 and a new tool.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)

On 2/15/2012 4:29 PM, Arthur Shapiro wrote:
I'm used to Naval Jelly and wire brushes / drill attachments for small rust
issues, but how does one deal with bigger areas?

I've never owned a bench grinder, and recently got an older used unit complete
with pedestal stand. The motor runs smoothly and I'm pleased at having spent
a whopping forty bucks for a tool that will be of some use to me.

But the pedestal base is quite rusty, with the underside of the base
especially bad. I'd say this would be described as severely rusty.

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? I know I could say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Art

You could bring it to a shop with a large sandblast cabinet

On 2012-02-15, RBM wrote:

You could bring it to a shop with a large sandblast cabinet

Yep. Sand/bead blast or look for a used welding grinder
(straight) for a wire wheel. None of these are cheap. May be better
off buying a new stand.

nb

--
Fight internet CENSORSHIP - Fight SOPA-PIPA
Contact your congressman and/or representative, now!
http://projects.propublica.org/sopa/
vi --the heart of evil!

RBM wrote in :

On 2/15/2012 4:29 PM, Arthur Shapiro wrote:
I'm used to Naval Jelly and wire brushes / drill attachments for
small rust issues, but how does one deal with bigger areas?

I've never owned a bench grinder, and recently got an older used unit
complete with pedestal stand. The motor runs smoothly and I'm
pleased at having spent a whopping forty bucks for a tool that will
be of some use to me.

But the pedestal base is quite rusty, with the underside of the base
especially bad. I'd say this would be described as severely rusty.

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that
is realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? I know I
could say that it's in a dry environment now and probably will
outlast me with doing nothing, but I'd still like to get it
reasonably cleaned up.

Art

You could bring it to a shop with a large sandblast cabinet


or rent a sandblasting setup.
there are also rust-converting paints.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 16:49:34 -0500, RBM wrote:

You could bring it to a shop with a large sandblast cabinet

+1 on sandblasting...

Perhaps renting a portable unit, even.

(Arthur Shapiro) wrote in news:jhh83e$ine$1@USTR-
NEWS.TR.UNISYS.COM:




Sandblasting, until all the iron is looking grey.
Then treat it to primer and the kind of paint
used for cars.
Then it will last quite some years.

On 2/15/2012 3:29 PM, Arthur Shapiro wrote:
I'm used to Naval Jelly and wire brushes / drill attachments for small rust
issues, but how does one deal with bigger areas?

I've never owned a bench grinder, and recently got an older used unit complete
with pedestal stand. The motor runs smoothly and I'm pleased at having spent
a whopping forty bucks for a tool that will be of some use to me.

But the pedestal base is quite rusty, with the underside of the base
especially bad. I'd say this would be described as severely rusty.

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? I know I could say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Art

sandblast and powder coat

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:43:54 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Feb 15, 4:29Â*pm, (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:
I'm used to Naval Jelly and wire brushes / drill attachments for small rust
issues, but how does one deal with bigger areas?

I've never owned a bench grinder, and recently got an older used unit complete
with pedestal stand. Â*The motor runs smoothly and I'm pleased at having spent
a whopping forty bucks for a tool that will be of some use to me.

But the pedestal base is quite rusty, with the underside of the base
especially bad. Â*I'd say this would be described as severely rusty.

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? Â*I know I could say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Art

Use this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...der-91223.html

with this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...kit-90976.html

$30 and a new tool.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)
Or get it sand blasted.

On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 14:24:24 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 16:49:34 -0500, RBM wrote:

You could bring it to a shop with a large sandblast cabinet

+1 on sandblasting...

Perhaps renting a portable unit, even.
Find a local sand-blasting company and see if you can "piggyback" on
a job. He's all set up somewhere doing a job, you drop the pedestal
off, and he gives it a swipe with the gun charging you just for time
and sand, with no setup cost.

On 02/15/2012 04:29 PM, Arthur Shapiro wrote:
I'm used to Naval Jelly and wire brushes / drill attachments for small rust
issues, but how does one deal with bigger areas?

I've never owned a bench grinder, and recently got an older used unit complete
with pedestal stand. The motor runs smoothly and I'm pleased at having spent
a whopping forty bucks for a tool that will be of some use to me.

But the pedestal base is quite rusty, with the underside of the base
especially bad. I'd say this would be described as severely rusty.

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? I know I could say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Art

would the parts be small enough to do something like this with a
Rubbermaid storage container?

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm

Lazy man's way to restore steel/iron parts.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Feb 15, 4:29*pm, (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:
I'm used to Naval Jelly and wire brushes / drill attachments for small rust
issues, but how does one deal with bigger areas?

I've never owned a bench grinder, and recently got an older used unit complete
with pedestal stand. *The motor runs smoothly and I'm pleased at having spent
a whopping forty bucks for a tool that will be of some use to me.

But the pedestal base is quite rusty, with the underside of the base
especially bad. *I'd say this would be described as severely rusty.

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? *I know I could say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Art

There are businesses around that can dip a whole car and remove the
rust in chemicals. They also do furniture. Check the yellow pages or
google. I had the bed of an antique firetruck dipped to remove all the
rust about 20 years ago. Worked great and looks good even today. No
damage like you would get from sandblasting.

Hank

DerbyDad03 wrote:

Use this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...der-91223.html

with this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...kit-90976.html

$30 and a new tool.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)

Always wear eye protection - and even face protection - when using a
rotating wire brush. Those little filaments of steel sometimes come loose
and fly through the air like a harpoon.

"HeyBub" wrote in
m:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

Use this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...s/heavy-duty-4
-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-91223.html

with this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...kit-90976.html

$30 and a new tool.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)

Always wear eye protection - and even face protection - when using a
rotating wire brush. Those little filaments of steel sometimes come
loose and fly through the air like a harpoon.






The admonition to use eye-protection is a wise one.

A guy I knew years ago was using a chisel without wearing goggles. He ended
up with a chip in his eye and had to go to emergency.

When removing the chip, the guy had to be AWAKE, EYES OPEN. The doctor
said, "Whatever you do, don't move your eyes or blink". So my friend was
forced to watch as the doctor dug around in the white of his eye to remove
the chip.

Can you imagine? Can you?

--
Tegger

wrote in
:

On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:43:54 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

..

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)
Or get it sand blasted.



All of this media-blasting and angle-grinding seems a bit over-the-top for
a grinder stand that will be used in a dry environment.

If it were me, I'd just use 50-grit emery cloth (NOT sandpaper!) to smooth
out the rust by hand, then I'd rattle-can the stand with Tremclad or other
rust paint. Done.


--
Tegger

On 2/16/2012 9:00 AM, Tegger wrote:
wrote in
:

On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:43:54 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)
Or get it sand blasted.



All of this media-blasting and angle-grinding seems a bit over-the-top for
a grinder stand that will be used in a dry environment.

If it were me, I'd just use 50-grit emery cloth (NOT sandpaper!) to smooth
out the rust by hand, then I'd rattle-can the stand with Tremclad or other
rust paint. Done.



well of course it's over the top. He could just ignore it and use it
the way it is.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 09:26:34 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 2/16/2012 9:00 AM, Tegger wrote:
wrote in
:

On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:43:54 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)
Or get it sand blasted.



All of this media-blasting and angle-grinding seems a bit over-the-top for
a grinder stand that will be used in a dry environment.

If it were me, I'd just use 50-grit emery cloth (NOT sandpaper!) to smooth
out the rust by hand, then I'd rattle-can the stand with Tremclad or other
rust paint. Done.



well of course it's over the top. He could just ignore it and use it
the way it is.

If it wasn't dropping rust on the floor that's what I'd do.
If it was, I'd knock the loose stuff off, sweep that up, and then
leaves it.
Rust looks fine on cast iron.

--Vic.

"Tegger" wrote in message
...
"HeyBub" wrote in
m:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

Use this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...s/heavy-duty-4
-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-91223.html

with this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...kit-90976.html

$30 and a new tool.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)

Always wear eye protection - and even face protection - when using a
rotating wire brush. Those little filaments of steel sometimes come
loose and fly through the air like a harpoon.






The admonition to use eye-protection is a wise one.

A guy I knew years ago was using a chisel without wearing goggles. He
ended
up with a chip in his eye and had to go to emergency.

When removing the chip, the guy had to be AWAKE, EYES OPEN. The doctor
said, "Whatever you do, don't move your eyes or blink". So my friend was
forced to watch as the doctor dug around in the white of his eye to remove
the chip.

Can you imagine? Can you?

He was lucky. For a lot of people, a grinder was the last thing they would
ever see with that eye. The chips fly off faster than the eye can blink.

--
Bobby G.

"Arthur Shapiro" wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? I know I could
say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Take all the loose stuff off with a wire brush and then use Rustoleum which
will bond with any remaining oxidation and inhibit further rust. This isn't
a planter in the living room, it's a tool. (-: Once you have a coat or two
of good rust-inhibiting paint on it, no one but you will notice.

Rustoleum uses fish oil to work its magic: In 1921, sea captain Robert
Fergusson noticed that raw fish oil spilled on rusty metal decks stopped
corrosion from spreading. The rest is, as they say, history.

--
Bobby G.

On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 12:35:54 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"Arthur Shapiro" wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? I know I could
say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Take all the loose stuff off with a wire brush and then use Rustoleum which
will bond with any remaining oxidation and inhibit further rust. This isn't
a planter in the living room, it's a tool. (-: Once you have a coat or two
of good rust-inhibiting paint on it, no one but you will notice.


The patina will be gone.
Why is it that rust gets no respect?

--Vic

On 2012-02-16, Vic Smith wrote:

Why is it that rust gets no respect?

Why are you brain dead?

nb


--
Fight internet CENSORSHIP - Fight SOPA-PIPA
Contact your congressman and/or representative, now!
http://projects.propublica.org/sopa/
vi --the heart of evil!

On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 14:57:56 +0000, Tegger wrote:
A guy I knew years ago was using a chisel without wearing goggles. He
ended up with a chip in his eye and had to go to emergency.

When removing the chip, the guy had to be AWAKE, EYES OPEN. The doctor
said, "Whatever you do, don't move your eyes or blink". So my friend was
forced to watch as the doctor dug around in the white of his eye to
remove the chip.

Yeah, I had it happen to me with a small piece of debris when using an
angle grinder last year - I had safety glasses on, but somehow whatever-
is-was still managed to get around them and into my eye.

At the hospital I was expecting some sort of high-tech solution, but they
wheeled out this ancient light / magnifying device, put some numbing
drops in my eye, and then used a broken piece of wooden stick to dig the
thing out.

Apparently eyes heal really fast. I had some antibiotics for a couple of
days, and it was all back to normal within four or five.

Luckily it was a stone or a piece of paint or something of that nature -
apparently metal's worse because it can rust prior to removal and cause
all sorts of problems.

cheers

Jules

Jules Richardson wrote:

Yeah, I had it happen to me with a small piece of debris when using an
angle grinder last year - I had safety glasses on, but somehow
whatever- is-was still managed to get around them and into my eye.

I can concur that safety glasses are only a partial solution when using an
abrasive or wire-wound tool (unless you are using chem-lab style glasses).

The solution I use is to wear my normal safety glasses underneath a
full-face polycarbonate shield. After having a few close calls wearing only
safety glasses, this is the only way I fly.

Jon

On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 19:51:07 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 14:57:56 +0000, Tegger wrote:
A guy I knew years ago was using a chisel without wearing goggles. He
ended up with a chip in his eye and had to go to emergency.

When removing the chip, the guy had to be AWAKE, EYES OPEN. The doctor
said, "Whatever you do, don't move your eyes or blink". So my friend was
forced to watch as the doctor dug around in the white of his eye to
remove the chip.

Yeah, I had it happen to me with a small piece of debris when using an
angle grinder last year - I had safety glasses on, but somehow whatever-
is-was still managed to get around them and into my eye.

At the hospital I was expecting some sort of high-tech solution, but they
wheeled out this ancient light / magnifying device, put some numbing
drops in my eye, and then used a broken piece of wooden stick to dig the
thing out.

Apparently eyes heal really fast. I had some antibiotics for a couple of
days, and it was all back to normal within four or five.

Luckily it was a stone or a piece of paint or something of that nature -
apparently metal's worse because it can rust prior to removal and cause
all sorts of problems.

cheers

Jules

Had a fiber-optic cable installer tell me about his co-worker that got
a piece of the glass in his eye. Sounded terrible. Not sure you could
even see it without high tech solutions.

On Feb 15, 4:29*pm, (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:
I'm used to Naval Jelly and wire brushes / drill attachments for small rust
issues, but how does one deal with bigger areas?

I've never owned a bench grinder, and recently got an older used unit complete
with pedestal stand. *The motor runs smoothly and I'm pleased at having spent
a whopping forty bucks for a tool that will be of some use to me.

But the pedestal base is quite rusty, with the underside of the base
especially bad. *I'd say this would be described as severely rusty.

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? *I know I could say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Art

I bought mine rusty 20 years ago and it still is rusty . I knocked of
the worst with a wire brush and rubbed it down in motor oil. The rust
soaks up the oil and creates a coating that prevents more rust. Gives
it character.

Jimmie

On Feb 16, 12:35*pm, "Robert Green"
wrote:
"Arthur Shapiro" wrote in message

...

stuff snipped



Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? *I know I could
say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Take all the loose stuff off with a wire brush and then use Rustoleum which
will bond with any remaining oxidation and inhibit further rust. *This isn't
a planter in the living room, it's a tool. *(-: *Once you have a coat or two
of good rust-inhibiting paint on it, no one but you will notice.

Rustoleum uses fish oil to work its magic: *In 1921, sea captain Robert
Fergusson noticed that raw fish oil spilled on rusty metal decks stopped
corrosion from spreading. *The rest is, as they say, history.

--
Bobby G.

The fish oil is Rustoleum can also be a bit of a problem...

When I was heavy into the Soap Box Derby world, we'd often race our
cars "in primer" while we were still fiddling with the bodies, The
final fancy paint job was saved until we were sure that we were done
with all bondo, fiberglass, etc. We'd often throw a quick coat of
primer on before a weekend race so that our competitors couldn't tell
what we'd done - no sense giving away our design secrets.

Anyway, a friend of mine grabbed a few cans of Rustoleum primer and
blasted a coat over a large portion of the car. A few weeks later he
took it to a auto paint shop to have it painted and the guy said he
couldn't get the paint to stick. He'd spray it on and it just woudn't
dry properly. He asked my friend what type of primer he had used.

When my friend told him that he had used Rustoleum primer, the guy
said that it would take some major work to get any other paint to
adhere because of the fish oil in the Rustoleum. My friend was in a
time crunch, so he went and bought a couple of cases of Rustoleum
paint and spray painted the car. He did such a fine job that people
were amazed when he told them that he painted it in his garage with
spray paint.

Add "wear shoes" to the list of protective. I've stood on those little
filaments, and got them into the bottoms of my feet. No fun.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...

Always wear eye protection - and even face protection - when using a
rotating wire brush. Those little filaments of steel sometimes come loose
and fly through the air like a harpoon.

On 2/16/2012 2:51 PM, Jules Richardson wrote:
On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 14:57:56 +0000, Tegger wrote:
A guy I knew years ago was using a chisel without wearing goggles. He
ended up with a chip in his eye and had to go to emergency.

When removing the chip, the guy had to be AWAKE, EYES OPEN. The doctor
said, "Whatever you do, don't move your eyes or blink". So my friend was
forced to watch as the doctor dug around in the white of his eye to
remove the chip.

Yeah, I had it happen to me with a small piece of debris when using an
angle grinder last year - I had safety glasses on, but somehow whatever-
is-was still managed to get around them and into my eye.

At the hospital I was expecting some sort of high-tech solution, but they
wheeled out this ancient light / magnifying device, put some numbing
drops in my eye, and then used a broken piece of wooden stick to dig the
thing out.
Often use stain that shows up under UV light to spot corneal abrasions.
The "broken stick" was probably a cotton-tip applicator, the cotton
being the business end.

Apparently eyes heal really fast. I had some antibiotics for a couple of
days, and it was all back to normal within four or five.

Luckily it was a stone or a piece of paint or something of that nature -
apparently metal's worse because it can rust prior to removal and cause
all sorts of problems.

An abrasion can start "healing" to the lining of the eyelid. Ouch!
Rust can cause staining of the cornea, so needs prompt attention.

cheers

Jules

I took care of a guy who turned on his lathe with allen wrench in
place...the lathe turned, hung up, and then let the allen wrench fly.
Busted the guy's safety glasses....there was blood coming from under his
lid when he got to my office, so shipped him out pronto to the ER. He
had glass in his eye, small abrasion to the inside of his lid and no
injury to the eye itself. Lucky as heck!

Any foreign body needs prompt attention. If it can't be rinsed out
quickly, the eye should be covered until one gets to the doctor; patch
keeps the eye from moving and causing further abrasion.

Tegger wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in
m:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

Use this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...s/heavy-duty-4
-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-91223.html

with this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...kit-90976.html

$30 and a new tool.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)

Always wear eye protection - and even face protection - when using a
rotating wire brush. Those little filaments of steel sometimes come
loose and fly through the air like a harpoon.






The admonition to use eye-protection is a wise one.

A guy I knew years ago was using a chisel without wearing goggles. He
ended up with a chip in his eye and had to go to emergency.

When removing the chip, the guy had to be AWAKE, EYES OPEN. The doctor
said, "Whatever you do, don't move your eyes or blink". So my friend
was forced to watch as the doctor dug around in the white of his eye
to remove the chip.

Can you imagine? Can you?

Yes. Every time I think of rooting around inside someone's eyeball, I think
of Harry. Regrettably, there are few, if any, nerves inside the eye.

On 2/16/2012 3:08 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
Jules Richardson wrote:

Yeah, I had it happen to me with a small piece of debris when using an
angle grinder last year - I had safety glasses on, but somehow
whatever- is-was still managed to get around them and into my eye.

I can concur that safety glasses are only a partial solution when using an
abrasive or wire-wound tool (unless you are using chem-lab style glasses).

The solution I use is to wear my normal safety glasses underneath a
full-face polycarbonate shield. After having a few close calls wearing only
safety glasses, this is the only way I fly.

Jon



Wise choice. Grinders (and most power tools )scare me, having nursed
a whole lot of different kinds of injuries. Read about a guy in Florida
a couple of years ago using a grinding wheel; wheel broke, fragment flew
up and hit him in the neck...he bled to death. Freakish.

On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:39:54 -0500, Norminn wrote:
At the hospital I was expecting some sort of high-tech solution, but
they wheeled out this ancient light / magnifying device, put some
numbing drops in my eye, and then used a broken piece of wooden stick
to dig the thing out.
Often use stain that shows up under UV light to spot corneal abrasions.
The "broken stick" was probably a cotton-tip applicator, the cotton
being the business end.

Something like that, I expect. It looked maybe 9" long, 1/4" wide - the
doc broke it in half to poke at my eye with, though.

An abrasion can start "healing" to the lining of the eyelid. Ouch!

Yes, I think I remember the doctor mentioning that sometimes happening,
too.

I took care of a guy who turned on his lathe with allen wrench in
place...the lathe turned, hung up, and then let the allen wrench fly.
Busted the guy's safety glasses....there was blood coming from under his
lid when he got to my office, so shipped him out pronto to the ER. He
had glass in his eye, small abrasion to the inside of his lid and no
injury to the eye itself. Lucky as heck!

Ouch. I've heard of people doing that with drills many a time, but not
with a lathe.

Any foreign body needs prompt attention. If it can't be rinsed out
quickly, the eye should be covered until one gets to the doctor; patch
keeps the eye from moving and causing further abrasion.

I was probably lucky there - it was actually almost a week before I went
in. At first I thought I just had something trapped between the eye and
eyelid, so I kept rinsing my eye with eyewash (and I did keep getting
little bits and pieces of crap out). It was only after several days that
I noticed there was something embedded in my eyeball - it was black and
right over my pupil, so very difficult to see except with a strong light
(and although my vision was a little blurry on that side, I was putting
that down to the saline washes and irritation from the stuff that I was
occasionally still getting out).

cheers

Jules

On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:24:38 -0500, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Add "wear shoes" to the list of protective. I've stood on those little
filaments, and got them into the bottoms of my feet. No fun.

Possibly not as bad as a rusty upturned nail sticking through a board -
they don't care about shoes... :-)

On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 12:23:57 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"Tegger" wrote in message
...
"HeyBub" wrote in
m:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

Use this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...s/heavy-duty-4
-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-91223.html

with this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...kit-90976.html

$30 and a new tool.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)

Always wear eye protection - and even face protection - when using a
rotating wire brush. Those little filaments of steel sometimes come
loose and fly through the air like a harpoon.






The admonition to use eye-protection is a wise one.

A guy I knew years ago was using a chisel without wearing goggles. He
ended
up with a chip in his eye and had to go to emergency.

When removing the chip, the guy had to be AWAKE, EYES OPEN. The doctor
said, "Whatever you do, don't move your eyes or blink". So my friend was
forced to watch as the doctor dug around in the white of his eye to remove
the chip.

Can you imagine? Can you?

He was lucky. For a lot of people, a grinder was the last thing they would
ever see with that eye. The chips fly off faster than the eye can blink.

I had a friend who used a framing hammer on cut masonry nails, sans eye
protection. After which, he had ten similar operations over the next ten days
to put his eye back together. The doctor was among the best and he didn't
lose the eye but it was a close one.

On Fri, 17 Feb 2012 00:30:05 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:24:38 -0500, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Add "wear shoes" to the list of protective. I've stood on those little
filaments, and got them into the bottoms of my feet. No fun.

Possibly not as bad as a rusty upturned nail sticking through a board -
they don't care about shoes... :-)

Which is why I don't leave nails in boards. It takes longer but either they
come out or get cut flush, as the demolition moves along.

On Feb 16, 4:39*pm, Norminn wrote:
On 2/16/2012 2:51 PM, Jules Richardson wrote:







On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 14:57:56 +0000, Tegger wrote:
A guy I knew years ago was using a chisel without wearing goggles. He
ended up with a chip in his eye and had to go to emergency.

When removing the chip, the guy had to be AWAKE, EYES OPEN. The doctor
said, "Whatever you do, don't move your eyes or blink". So my friend was
forced to watch as the doctor dug around in the white of his eye to
remove the chip.

Yeah, I had it happen to me with a small piece of debris when using an
angle grinder last year - I had safety glasses on, but somehow whatever-
is-was still managed to get around them and into my eye.

At the hospital I was expecting some sort of high-tech solution, but they
wheeled out this ancient light / magnifying device, put some numbing
drops in my eye, and then used a broken piece of wooden stick to dig the
thing out.

Often use stain that shows up under UV light to spot corneal abrasions.
* The "broken stick" was probably a cotton-tip applicator, the cotton
being the business end.



Apparently eyes heal really fast. I had some antibiotics for a couple of
days, and it was all back to normal within four or five.

Luckily it was a stone or a piece of paint or something of that nature -
apparently metal's worse because it can rust prior to removal and cause
all sorts of problems.

An abrasion can start "healing" to the lining of the eyelid. *Ouch!
Rust can cause staining of the cornea, so needs prompt attention.



cheers

Jules

I took care of a guy who turned on his lathe with allen wrench in
place...the lathe turned, hung up, and then let the allen wrench fly.
Busted the guy's safety glasses....there was blood coming from under his
lid when he got to my office, so shipped him out pronto to the ER. *He
had glass in his eye, small abrasion to the inside of his lid and no
injury to the eye itself. *Lucky as heck!

Any foreign body needs prompt attention. *If it can't be rinsed out
quickly, the eye should be covered until one gets to the doctor; patch
keeps the eye from moving and causing further abrasion.

Safety glasses saved my eye a few years back.

While I was building my deck, I used a couple of 3' bar clamps to hold
a railing on the posts and stepped back a few feet to see how it
looked. One of these clamps, but the 36" variety:

http://woodworker.com/images/ss/109-253.jpg

The bar end of the clamp was sticking out into the yard, and as I
walked back towards the deck, my "depth of focus" was on the railing.
The tiny end of the bar clamp was essentially invisible.

About 3 feet from the deck, my head snapped back as the bar clamp hit
square in the middle of the left lens, gouging the plastic. The lens
deflected the bar clamp upwards to where it took a divot out of my
forehead.

Based on where it hit the lens, I can only assume it would have pushed
my eyeball at least a few inches into my head had I not been wearing
the safety glasses.

"Arthur Shapiro" wrote in message
...
I'm used to Naval Jelly and wire brushes / drill attachments for small
rust
issues, but how does one deal with bigger areas?

I've never owned a bench grinder, and recently got an older used unit
complete
with pedestal stand. The motor runs smoothly and I'm pleased at having
spent
a whopping forty bucks for a tool that will be of some use to me.

But the pedestal base is quite rusty, with the underside of the base
especially bad. I'd say this would be described as severely rusty.

Are there any established techniques for dealing with something that is
realistically too big to handle with normal techniques? I know I could
say
that it's in a dry environment now and probably will outlast me with doing
nothing, but I'd still like to get it reasonably cleaned up.

Art

A picture would say a lot. Not posted here, but a link. Is it something
that would hold up to sandblasting or small enough pieces to get into a bead
blaster? Those things do incredible work without taking off a lot of metal
or leaving marks. And much quicker than wire wheeling it. And safer, too.

Steve

www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
DerbyDad03 wrote:

Use this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...der-91223.html

with this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...kit-90976.html

$30 and a new tool.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)

Always wear eye protection - and even face protection - when using a
rotating wire brush. Those little filaments of steel sometimes come loose
and fly through the air like a harpoon.

I have welded since 1974. I bet I have pulled at least 100 of those little
pieces out of my face, arms, chest, everywhere. As stated, take care of
your safety. If you go blind, they send you home early.

Steve

www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com

On 2/16/2012 11:23 AM, Robert Green wrote:
wrote in message
...
wrote in
m:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

Use this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...s/heavy-duty-4
-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-91223.html

with this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...kit-90976.html

$30 and a new tool.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)

Always wear eye protection - and even face protection - when using a
rotating wire brush. Those little filaments of steel sometimes come
loose and fly through the air like a harpoon.






The admonition to use eye-protection is a wise one.

A guy I knew years ago was using a chisel without wearing goggles. He
ended
up with a chip in his eye and had to go to emergency.

When removing the chip, the guy had to be AWAKE, EYES OPEN. The doctor
said, "Whatever you do, don't move your eyes or blink". So my friend was
forced to watch as the doctor dug around in the white of his eye to remove
the chip.

Can you imagine? Can you?

He was lucky. For a lot of people, a grinder was the last thing they would
ever see with that eye. The chips fly off faster than the eye can blink.

--
Bobby G.



The only thing that has kept me from losing an eye is the fact that I've
been wearing eyeglasses since I was six years old. When I first
had the eyeglasses put on me, I looked around and exclaimed, "Wow,
that's where all that noise is coming from!" ^_^

TDD

"Tegger" wrote in message
...
"HeyBub" wrote in
m:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

Use this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...s/heavy-duty-4
-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-91223.html

with this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...kit-90976.html

$30 and a new tool.

(or spend more if you want a quality angle grinder.)

Always wear eye protection - and even face protection - when using a
rotating wire brush. Those little filaments of steel sometimes come
loose and fly through the air like a harpoon.






The admonition to use eye-protection is a wise one.

A guy I knew years ago was using a chisel without wearing goggles. He
ended
up with a chip in his eye and had to go to emergency.

When removing the chip, the guy had to be AWAKE, EYES OPEN. The doctor
said, "Whatever you do, don't move your eyes or blink". So my friend was
forced to watch as the doctor dug around in the white of his eye to remove
the chip.

Can you imagine? Can you?

--
Tegger

Cannot imagine it because I had to do it three times. Twice while wearing
safety goggles, and something went past them. Once while caught in a desert
dust devil, and some plant matter got stuck in there. I wonder now if with
the super magnets if they can just pull out ferric debris. Old welders used
one hair off a horse's mane.

Steve

"Norminn" wrote

Any foreign body needs prompt attention. If it can't be rinsed out
quickly, the eye should be covered until one gets to the doctor; patch
keeps the eye from moving and causing further abrasion.

It is absolutely freaking amazing how much your eye moves from the time of
the incident until you get to the doctor and get it out. In that time, it
is cutting the inside your eyelid, and that drives you nuts.

Steve

www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com