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Default Toilet clog problem

My toilet has been plugging up a lot recently. I do not think it is
the trap in the toilet because when I put a toilet auger down the
toilet, it did not hit the clog until it was about 26 inches down.

Is there a SeeSnake type inspection camera that is flexible enough
to go through a toilet trap? Is there anything else I can do to
identify the problem? Thank you in advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. I'll have some of that!"
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Default Toilet clog problem

On Sep 16, 11:46*am, Daniel Prince wrote:
My toilet has been plugging up a lot recently. *I do not think it is
the trap in the toilet because when I put a toilet auger down the
toilet, it did not hit the clog until it was about 26 inches down.

Is there a SeeSnake type inspection camera that is flexible enough
to go through a toilet trap? *Is there anything else I can do to
identify the problem? *Thank you in advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. *I'll have some of that!"


Pulling and reinstalling a toilet is typically an easy job. One water
connection and 2 bolts to remove, some clean up of the old wax ring
and the "sticking on" of a new one prior to bolting the bowl back
down.

Assuming it's your first time, In and Out shouldn't take more than an
hour, not including putting your tools away afterwards, and that's
working really slow.

Granted, you could run into issues with the shoe or something else,
but that's pretty rare.

Once the toilet is off, you can use a bigger snake or a camera or
maybe even a flashlight, depending on your configuration and the
location of the clog.

Keep this in mind:

The "clog' you think you hit might not even be the clog. There's lots
of tales in this NG about snakes going right past the problem, such as
the time I had a toilet paper roll stuck in the bottom of the toilet.
Liquids and some solids would pass through it - as would the snake -
but it often clogged when paper caught the rim of the roll. I didn't
find the problem until I pulled the toilet and look into the bottom.

I still keep a spare wax ring in the shop just in case I need to pull
a toilet in an "emergency". Once you've done it, you'll see how easy
it is.

Tip: They usually suggest a sponge or towel to soak up the remaining
water in the tank or bowl, but I always use my shop vac with a small
diameter hose. That gets it almost bone dry.

Good luck!
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Default Toilet clog problem

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Sep 16, 11:46 am, Daniel Prince wrote:
My toilet has been plugging up a lot recently. I do not think it is
the trap in the toilet because when I put a toilet auger down the
toilet, it did not hit the clog until it was about 26 inches down.

Is there a SeeSnake type inspection camera that is flexible enough
to go through a toilet trap? Is there anything else I can do to
identify the problem? Thank you in advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. I'll have some of that!"


Pulling and reinstalling a toilet is typically an easy job. One water
connection and 2 bolts to remove, some clean up of the old wax ring
and the "sticking on" of a new one prior to bolting the bowl back
down.

Assuming it's your first time, In and Out shouldn't take more than an
hour, not including putting your tools away afterwards, and that's
working really slow.

Granted, you could run into issues with the shoe or something else,
but that's pretty rare.

Once the toilet is off, you can use a bigger snake or a camera or
maybe even a flashlight, depending on your configuration and the
location of the clog.

Keep this in mind:

The "clog' you think you hit might not even be the clog. There's lots
of tales in this NG about snakes going right past the problem, such as
the time I had a toilet paper roll stuck in the bottom of the toilet.
Liquids and some solids would pass through it - as would the snake -
but it often clogged when paper caught the rim of the roll. I didn't
find the problem until I pulled the toilet and look into the bottom.

I still keep a spare wax ring in the shop just in case I need to pull
a toilet in an "emergency". Once you've done it, you'll see how easy
it is.

Tip: They usually suggest a sponge or towel to soak up the remaining
water in the tank or bowl, but I always use my shop vac with a small
diameter hose. That gets it almost bone dry.

Good luck!

============


I think he should flush some fresh crabs down the toilet to chew through
whatever's there.


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Default Toilet clog problem

On Sep 16, 4:09*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 16, 11:46*am, Daniel Prince wrote:

My toilet has been plugging up a lot recently. *I do not think it is
the trap in the toilet because when I put a toilet auger down the
toilet, it did not hit the clog until it was about 26 inches down.


Is there a SeeSnake type inspection camera that is flexible enough
to go through a toilet trap? *Is there anything else I can do to
identify the problem? *Thank you in advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. *I'll have some of that!"


Pulling and reinstalling a toilet is typically an easy job. One water
connection and 2 bolts to remove, some clean up of the old wax ring
and the "sticking on" of a new one prior to bolting the bowl back
down.

Assuming it's your first time, In and Out shouldn't take more than an
hour, not including putting your tools away afterwards, and that's
working really slow.

Granted, you could run into issues with the shoe or something else,
but that's pretty rare.

Once the toilet is off, you can use a bigger snake or a camera or
maybe even a flashlight, depending on your configuration and the
location of the clog.

Keep this in mind:

The "clog' you think you hit might not even be the clog. There's lots
of tales in this NG about snakes going right past the problem, such as
the time I had a toilet paper roll stuck in the bottom of the toilet.
Liquids and some solids would pass through it - as would the snake -
but it often clogged when paper caught the rim of the roll. *I didn't
find the problem until I pulled the toilet and look into the bottom.

I still keep a spare wax ring in the shop just in case I need to pull
a toilet in an "emergency". Once you've done it, you'll see how easy
it is.

Tip: They usually suggest a sponge or towel to soak up the remaining
water in the tank or bowl, but I always use my shop vac with a small
diameter hose. That gets it almost bone dry.

Good luck!


Sounds like a problem I had, toilet would work OK 3 times out of 4 ran
the snake through it numerous times couldnt find anything, Finally bit
the bullet and pulled it apart and there was a pencil to long to make
the turn in the pipe. Must have been just the right length that it
could make it through the trap and not the turn in the plumbing.

Jimmie
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Default Toilet clog problem

On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:09:42 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sep 16, 11:46Â*am, Daniel Prince wrote:
My toilet has been plugging up a lot recently. Â*I do not think it is
the trap in the toilet because when I put a toilet auger down the
toilet, it did not hit the clog until it was about 26 inches down.

Is there a SeeSnake type inspection camera that is flexible enough
to go through a toilet trap? Â*Is there anything else I can do to
identify the problem? Â*Thank you in advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. Â*I'll have some of that!"



Before you do anything removing the toilet, make sure the siphon jet
isn't plugged up with scale.
That's the hole under water on the front of the bowl.
I just posted about my experience with that, which was similar to
yours.
A weak vortex is an indicator, but the problem develops slowly enough
that you might notice the vortex is weak.

Pulling and reinstalling a toilet is typically an easy job. One water
connection and 2 bolts to remove, some clean up of the old wax ring
and the "sticking on" of a new one prior to bolting the bowl back
down.

Assuming it's your first time, In and Out shouldn't take more than an
hour, not including putting your tools away afterwards, and that's
working really slow.

Granted, you could run into issues with the shoe or something else,
but that's pretty rare.

Once the toilet is off, you can use a bigger snake or a camera or
maybe even a flashlight, depending on your configuration and the
location of the clog.

Keep this in mind:

The "clog' you think you hit might not even be the clog. There's lots
of tales in this NG about snakes going right past the problem, such as
the time I had a toilet paper roll stuck in the bottom of the toilet.
Liquids and some solids would pass through it - as would the snake -
but it often clogged when paper caught the rim of the roll. I didn't
find the problem until I pulled the toilet and look into the bottom.

I still keep a spare wax ring in the shop just in case I need to pull
a toilet in an "emergency". Once you've done it, you'll see how easy
it is.

Tip: They usually suggest a sponge or towel to soak up the remaining
water in the tank or bowl, but I always use my shop vac with a small
diameter hose. That gets it almost bone dry.

Good luck!


Couple of points.
Depending on age of toilet and plumbing hardware, you're better being
prepared to replace the stop and line to the tank.
The tank should be removed first, so that's 2 more bolts that might be
too rusty to re-use.
Always do this kind of stuff either having the parts, or when you can
go get them at the hardware store.

--Vic


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Default Toilet clog problem

On Sep 16, 4:32*pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:09:42 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
On Sep 16, 11:46*am, Daniel Prince wrote:
My toilet has been plugging up a lot recently. *I do not think it is
the trap in the toilet because when I put a toilet auger down the
toilet, it did not hit the clog until it was about 26 inches down.


Is there a SeeSnake type inspection camera that is flexible enough
to go through a toilet trap? *Is there anything else I can do to
identify the problem? *Thank you in advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. *I'll have some of that!"


Before you do anything removing the toilet, make sure the siphon jet
isn't plugged up with scale.
That's the hole under water on the front of the bowl.
I just posted about my experience with that, which was similar to
yours.
A weak vortex is an indicator, but the problem develops slowly enough
that you might notice the vortex is weak.





Pulling and reinstalling a toilet is typically an easy job. One water
connection and 2 bolts to remove, some clean up of the old wax ring
and the "sticking on" of a new one prior to bolting the bowl back
down.


Assuming it's your first time, In and Out shouldn't take more than an
hour, not including putting your tools away afterwards, and that's
working really slow.


Granted, you could run into issues with the shoe or something else,
but that's pretty rare.


Once the toilet is off, you can use a bigger snake or a camera or
maybe even a flashlight, depending on your configuration and the
location of the clog.


Keep this in mind:


The "clog' you think you hit might not even be the clog. There's lots
of tales in this NG about snakes going right past the problem, such as
the time I had a toilet paper roll stuck in the bottom of the toilet.
Liquids and some solids would pass through it - as would the snake -
but it often clogged when paper caught the rim of the roll. *I didn't
find the problem until I pulled the toilet and look into the bottom.


I still keep a spare wax ring in the shop just in case I need to pull
a toilet in an "emergency". Once you've done it, you'll see how easy
it is.


Tip: They usually suggest a sponge or towel to soak up the remaining
water in the tank or bowl, but I always use my shop vac with a small
diameter hose. That gets it almost bone dry.


Good luck!


Couple of points.
Depending on age of toilet and plumbing hardware, you're better being
prepared to replace the stop and line to the tank.
The tank should be removed first, so that's 2 more bolts that might be
too rusty to re-use.
Always do this kind of stuff either having the parts, or when you can
go get them at the hardware store.

--Vic- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


"The tank should be removed first"

First? Why would you remove the tank at all?

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Daniel Prince wrote:
My toilet has been plugging up a lot recently. I do not think it is
the trap in the toilet because when I put a toilet auger down the
toilet, it did not hit the clog until it was about 26 inches down.

Is there a SeeSnake type inspection camera that is flexible enough
to go through a toilet trap? Is there anything else I can do to
identify the problem? Thank you in advance for all replies.


Someone must have sneezed out a tampon, it went down the drain and
swelled up.


--
LSMFT

I look outside this morning and everything was in 3D!
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Default Toilet clog problem

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Sep 16, 4:32 pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:09:42 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
On Sep 16, 11:46 am, Daniel Prince wrote:
My toilet has been plugging up a lot recently. I do not think it is
the trap in the toilet because when I put a toilet auger down the
toilet, it did not hit the clog until it was about 26 inches down.


Is there a SeeSnake type inspection camera that is flexible enough
to go through a toilet trap? Is there anything else I can do to
identify the problem? Thank you in advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. I'll have some of that!"


Before you do anything removing the toilet, make sure the siphon jet
isn't plugged up with scale.
That's the hole under water on the front of the bowl.
I just posted about my experience with that, which was similar to
yours.
A weak vortex is an indicator, but the problem develops slowly enough
that you might notice the vortex is weak.





Pulling and reinstalling a toilet is typically an easy job. One water
connection and 2 bolts to remove, some clean up of the old wax ring
and the "sticking on" of a new one prior to bolting the bowl back
down.


Assuming it's your first time, In and Out shouldn't take more than an
hour, not including putting your tools away afterwards, and that's
working really slow.


Granted, you could run into issues with the shoe or something else,
but that's pretty rare.


Once the toilet is off, you can use a bigger snake or a camera or
maybe even a flashlight, depending on your configuration and the
location of the clog.


Keep this in mind:


The "clog' you think you hit might not even be the clog. There's lots
of tales in this NG about snakes going right past the problem, such as
the time I had a toilet paper roll stuck in the bottom of the toilet.
Liquids and some solids would pass through it - as would the snake -
but it often clogged when paper caught the rim of the roll. I didn't
find the problem until I pulled the toilet and look into the bottom.


I still keep a spare wax ring in the shop just in case I need to pull
a toilet in an "emergency". Once you've done it, you'll see how easy
it is.


Tip: They usually suggest a sponge or towel to soak up the remaining
water in the tank or bowl, but I always use my shop vac with a small
diameter hose. That gets it almost bone dry.


Good luck!


Couple of points.
Depending on age of toilet and plumbing hardware, you're better being
prepared to replace the stop and line to the tank.
The tank should be removed first, so that's 2 more bolts that might be
too rusty to re-use.
Always do this kind of stuff either having the parts, or when you can
go get them at the hardware store.

--Vic- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


"The tank should be removed first"

First? Why would you remove the tank at all?
============

So you can clean behind it for the first time in 27 years.


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On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 14:40:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:



"The tank should be removed first"

First? Why would you remove the tank at all?


I admit this question surprises me.
Sort of like asking why first remove the TV from the TV stand when
you're going to flip it over to fix a leg.
But maybe others do it that way.
I've pulled and/or replaced maybe 15-20 toilets, none real modern.
Had a job with a plumber for a while, and do my own plumbing.

The tank was always about half the weight of the toilet, that's one
reason.
The tanks doubled the height of the toilet, and increased the depth by
about 25%.
Most were in a fairly tight space next to a vanity, so moving them out
is easier in 2 pieces, that's another reason.

The first one I ever put in, I put the tank on before putting the bowl
on the stack. When moving it in the tank wiggled on the washer and I
heard a slight crackling of ceramic.
I stopped right there and took the tank back off to check it.
It was okay. But I never did that again.
Never broke a tank.
That's the big reason.

Do you really flip a toilet over with the tank on?
All the more power to you.
I have no experience with "modern" toilets.
Let's say post-1995.

--Vic
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"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in
:

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
.
.. On Sep 16, 11:46 am, Daniel Prince wrote:
My toilet has been plugging up a lot recently. I do not think it is
the trap in the toilet because when I put a toilet auger down the
toilet, it did not hit the clog until it was about 26 inches down.

Is there a SeeSnake type inspection camera that is flexible enough
to go through a toilet trap? Is there anything else I can do to
identify the problem? Thank you in advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. I'll have some of that!"


Pulling and reinstalling a toilet is typically an easy job. One water
connection and 2 bolts to remove, some clean up of the old wax ring
and the "sticking on" of a new one prior to bolting the bowl back
down.

Assuming it's your first time, In and Out shouldn't take more than an
hour, not including putting your tools away afterwards, and that's
working really slow.

Granted, you could run into issues with the shoe or something else,
but that's pretty rare.

Once the toilet is off, you can use a bigger snake or a camera or
maybe even a flashlight, depending on your configuration and the
location of the clog.

Keep this in mind:

The "clog' you think you hit might not even be the clog. There's lots
of tales in this NG about snakes going right past the problem, such as
the time I had a toilet paper roll stuck in the bottom of the toilet.
Liquids and some solids would pass through it - as would the snake -
but it often clogged when paper caught the rim of the roll. I didn't
find the problem until I pulled the toilet and look into the bottom.

I still keep a spare wax ring in the shop just in case I need to pull
a toilet in an "emergency". Once you've done it, you'll see how easy
it is.

Tip: They usually suggest a sponge or towel to soak up the remaining
water in the tank or bowl, but I always use my shop vac with a small
diameter hose. That gets it almost bone dry.

Good luck!

============


I think he should flush some fresh crabs down the toilet to chew
through whatever's there.



It can be an easy job or it could be bad. I've seen the closet
ring/bolts crash and burn as soon as you move them. But then again,
actually a good thing to get it before it starts leaking just enough to
rot the subfloor but not be noticed by eye.

My story is intermittent poor flush. Did the auger thing. Pulled the
toilet. Ran hose in top and bottom directions. Nothing. Then just
happened to move it right and out comes a toothbrush. SWMBO dumped dirty
bucket of water down the toilet. Cleaning brush not visable.

Oh well. **** happens.


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"Red Green" wrote in message
...
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in
:

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
.
.. On Sep 16, 11:46 am, Daniel Prince wrote:
My toilet has been plugging up a lot recently. I do not think it is
the trap in the toilet because when I put a toilet auger down the
toilet, it did not hit the clog until it was about 26 inches down.

Is there a SeeSnake type inspection camera that is flexible enough
to go through a toilet trap? Is there anything else I can do to
identify the problem? Thank you in advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. I'll have some of that!"


Pulling and reinstalling a toilet is typically an easy job. One water
connection and 2 bolts to remove, some clean up of the old wax ring
and the "sticking on" of a new one prior to bolting the bowl back
down.

Assuming it's your first time, In and Out shouldn't take more than an
hour, not including putting your tools away afterwards, and that's
working really slow.

Granted, you could run into issues with the shoe or something else,
but that's pretty rare.

Once the toilet is off, you can use a bigger snake or a camera or
maybe even a flashlight, depending on your configuration and the
location of the clog.

Keep this in mind:

The "clog' you think you hit might not even be the clog. There's lots
of tales in this NG about snakes going right past the problem, such as
the time I had a toilet paper roll stuck in the bottom of the toilet.
Liquids and some solids would pass through it - as would the snake -
but it often clogged when paper caught the rim of the roll. I didn't
find the problem until I pulled the toilet and look into the bottom.

I still keep a spare wax ring in the shop just in case I need to pull
a toilet in an "emergency". Once you've done it, you'll see how easy
it is.

Tip: They usually suggest a sponge or towel to soak up the remaining
water in the tank or bowl, but I always use my shop vac with a small
diameter hose. That gets it almost bone dry.

Good luck!

============


I think he should flush some fresh crabs down the toilet to chew
through whatever's there.



It can be an easy job or it could be bad. I've seen the closet
ring/bolts crash and burn as soon as you move them. But then again,
actually a good thing to get it before it starts leaking just enough to
rot the subfloor but not be noticed by eye.

My story is intermittent poor flush. Did the auger thing. Pulled the
toilet. Ran hose in top and bottom directions. Nothing. Then just
happened to move it right and out comes a toothbrush. SWMBO dumped dirty
bucket of water down the toilet. Cleaning brush not visable.

Oh well. **** happens.



People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while simultaneously
having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush running on a drill.


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Vic Smith wrote in
:


The tank was always about half the weight of the toilet, that's one
reason.



And it makes the toilet WAY rear-heavy and difficult to balance when you're
muscling it around by yourself. It's a good way to induce dislodgement of
the wax ring while setting the toilet in place. Myself, I pull the tank.



--
Tegger
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On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:42:03 GMT, Red Green
wrote:



My story is intermittent poor flush. Did the auger thing. Pulled the
toilet. Ran hose in top and bottom directions. Nothing. Then just
happened to move it right and out comes a toothbrush. SWMBO dumped dirty
bucket of water down the toilet. Cleaning brush not visable.

Oh well. **** happens.


Some **** is worse than other ****.
I have a Tramco lift system in my house.
*Everything* goes through the pump.
After almost 50 years the pump started to fail.
Worked fine the 12 years I'd been in the house.
It was a PITA to find a good plumber to do the job but I found one and
$2100 later I had a new pump in.
A couple weeks later the pump starts vibrating.
Figured it was a defect.
Get the guy back and he says he's never had an install fail.
He had to pull the pump out of the tank.
Ladies panties all wound up in the impeller.
I have my suspicion about how that happened, but a suspicion is only
that.
I did momentarily think about posting a sign in the bathroom saying,
VISITORS: If you **** your panties DON'T flush them down the toilet!

Anyway another $290 fixed me up, and believe me, I got off cheap.
It's good when your plumber is a former seminarian.

--Vic
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On Sep 16, 6:28*pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 14:40:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:

"The tank should be removed first"


First? Why would you remove the tank at all?


I admit this question surprises me.
Sort of like asking why first remove the TV from the TV stand when
you're going to flip it over to fix a leg.
But maybe others do it that way.
I've pulled and/or replaced maybe 15-20 toilets, none real modern.
Had a job with a plumber for a while, and do my own plumbing.

The tank was always about half the weight of the toilet, that's one
reason.
The tanks doubled the height of the toilet, and increased the depth by
about 25%.
Most were in a fairly tight space next to a vanity, so moving them out
is easier in 2 pieces, that's another reason.

The first one I ever put in, I put the tank on before putting the bowl
on the stack. *When moving it in the tank wiggled on the washer and I
heard a slight crackling of ceramic.
I stopped right there and took the tank back off to check it.
It was okay. *But I never did that again.
Never broke a tank.
That's the big reason.

Do you really flip a toilet over with the tank on?
All the more power to you.
I have no experience with "modern" toilets.
Let's say post-1995.

--Vic


Well, I guess space has never been issue, but every toilet I've ever
pulled and reinstalled, I've done with the tank on.

I face teh tank, straddle the seat and grab the toilet just behind the
seat bolts and lift. That method keeps the toilet balanced and moves
it up or down the bolts in a straight path. I then waddle my way
around to wherever I need to take the toilet.

And yes, I've flipped - well, laid on its side - many a toilet with
the tank on. I'm always gentle and I usually lay towels or cardboard
on the floor. I've never had a problem and I don't think I could count
how many I've done.

The only time I've installed them in 2 pieces is for a new install.

To be sure, I've never carried one this way:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJC3uuG6ZMA
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Default Toilet clog problem

On Sep 16, 9:21*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 16, 6:28*pm, Vic Smith wrote:





On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 14:40:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03


wrote:


"The tank should be removed first"


First? Why would you remove the tank at all?


I admit this question surprises me.
Sort of like asking why first remove the TV from the TV stand when
you're going to flip it over to fix a leg.
But maybe others do it that way.
I've pulled and/or replaced maybe 15-20 toilets, none real modern.
Had a job with a plumber for a while, and do my own plumbing.


The tank was always about half the weight of the toilet, that's one
reason.
The tanks doubled the height of the toilet, and increased the depth by
about 25%.
Most were in a fairly tight space next to a vanity, so moving them out
is easier in 2 pieces, that's another reason.


The first one I ever put in, I put the tank on before putting the bowl
on the stack. *When moving it in the tank wiggled on the washer and I
heard a slight crackling of ceramic.
I stopped right there and took the tank back off to check it.
It was okay. *But I never did that again.
Never broke a tank.
That's the big reason.


Do you really flip a toilet over with the tank on?
All the more power to you.
I have no experience with "modern" toilets.
Let's say post-1995.


--Vic


Well, I guess space has never been issue, but every toilet I've ever
pulled and reinstalled, I've done with the tank on.

I face teh tank, straddle the seat and grab the toilet just behind the
seat bolts and lift. That method keeps the toilet balanced and moves
it up or down the bolts in a straight path. I then waddle my way
around to wherever I need to take the toilet.

And yes, I've flipped - well, laid on its side - many a toilet with
the tank on. I'm always gentle and I usually lay towels or cardboard
on the floor. I've never had a problem and I don't think I could count
how many I've done.

The only time I've installed them in 2 pieces is for a new install.

To be sure, I've never carried one this way:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJC3uuG6ZMA- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I've only done 4 or 5 toilets, but I can't imagine leaving the tank on
unless you have a huge room with amazing amounts of space to move
around in. All the bathrooms I've ever worked in were not big enough
to lay the toilet over on its side and still have room to work
comfortably.


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On Sep 16, 11:33*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Sep 16, 9:21*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:



On Sep 16, 6:28*pm, Vic Smith wrote:


On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 14:40:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03


wrote:


"The tank should be removed first"


First? Why would you remove the tank at all?


I admit this question surprises me.
Sort of like asking why first remove the TV from the TV stand when
you're going to flip it over to fix a leg.
But maybe others do it that way.
I've pulled and/or replaced maybe 15-20 toilets, none real modern.
Had a job with a plumber for a while, and do my own plumbing.


The tank was always about half the weight of the toilet, that's one
reason.
The tanks doubled the height of the toilet, and increased the depth by
about 25%.
Most were in a fairly tight space next to a vanity, so moving them out
is easier in 2 pieces, that's another reason.


The first one I ever put in, I put the tank on before putting the bowl
on the stack. *When moving it in the tank wiggled on the washer and I
heard a slight crackling of ceramic.
I stopped right there and took the tank back off to check it.
It was okay. *But I never did that again.
Never broke a tank.
That's the big reason.


Do you really flip a toilet over with the tank on?
All the more power to you.
I have no experience with "modern" toilets.
Let's say post-1995.


--Vic


Well, I guess space has never been issue, but every toilet I've ever
pulled and reinstalled, I've done with the tank on.


I face teh tank, straddle the seat and grab the toilet just behind the
seat bolts and lift. That method keeps the toilet balanced and moves
it up or down the bolts in a straight path. I then waddle my way
around to wherever I need to take the toilet.


And yes, I've flipped - well, laid on its side - many a toilet with
the tank on. I'm always gentle and I usually lay towels or cardboard
on the floor. I've never had a problem and I don't think I could count
how many I've done.


The only time I've installed them in 2 pieces is for a new install.


To be sure, I've never carried one this way:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJC3uuG6ZMA-Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


I've only done 4 or 5 toilets, but I can't imagine leaving the tank on
unless you have a huge room with amazing amounts of space to move
around in. *All the bathrooms I've ever worked in were not big enough
to lay the toilet over on its side and still have room to work
comfortably.


How much time are you spending under your toilets? g

Best case is you're cleaning some wax ring residue, worst case you're
removing whatever is clogging it.

You know, you *can* lay it down right where it used to be standing.

Besides, who's trying to get "comfortable" while cleaning a toilet?

And then there's the option of moving it to another room, which is
what I did when I removed my mom's so they could lay new linoleum.

When I consider the option of trying to remove the rusted bolts from
inside the tank vs. moving the toilet as one piece, I'll opt for the
one piece every time.

Maybe that's why I'm so quick to suggest pulling the toilet when
trying to find a clog. It's a really simple job - if you don't remove
the tank.
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Default Toilet clog problem

On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

[snip]


People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need to
learn to LOOK before sitting.

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Default Toilet clog problem

On Sep 17, 5:28*pm, Sam E wrote:
On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

[snip]



People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need to
learn to LOOK before sitting.


I'll often leave the seat up at events where there are coed bathrooms
(such as porta-potties) and no urinals, especially if the seat is
clean when I go in.

I do it mostly for the ladies.

I don't understand why a guy would **** all over the seat. Sure, blame
it on kids but pass the blame up to whoever raised them to think that
doing that is fun.

If I can save one lady - or even a guy - from having to wipe down a
**** covered seat, I'm satisfied.
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"Sam E" wrote in message
. com...
On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

[snip]


People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need to
learn to LOOK before sitting.



You obviously missed the previous post regarding the toothbrush. Go read it.
Closing the toilet prevents all sorts of interesting nightmares.


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On Sep 16, 11:46*am, Daniel Prince wrote:
My toilet has been plugging up a lot recently. *I do not think it is
the trap in the toilet because when I put a toilet auger down the
toilet, it did not hit the clog until it was about 26 inches down.

Is there a SeeSnake type inspection camera that is flexible enough
to go through a toilet trap? *Is there anything else I can do to
identify the problem? *Thank you in advance for all replies.
--


Ok basics

Flush toilet with bucket of water, does it always fush OK?

If it does NOT then pull toilet and make it into a big project.....

If using a bucket flushes properly the toliet asnd drain lines are
fine

the problem is the internal passages inside the toilet that send water
around the bowl rim.the water comes from the small line that goes to
the dip tube in the tank

these passages and exit holes under the rim can get sediment buildup
over time, it slows water flow,.

flush toilet and watch water in bowl, does it just swirl around?

if so acid is your friend for 5 bucks and a few minutes time its
easily fixable. its safe effective easy and worth trying before you
pull toilet, which can have downsides.

like ooops the flange cracked, ooops the water line in the wall has
developed a leak, the wife says as long as your pulling the toilet
lets remodel the bathroom, etc etc etc,..,

try the bucket flush and report back here with the results


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On Sep 18, 7:16*am, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:
"Sam E" wrote in message

. com...

On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:


[snip]


People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need to
learn to LOOK before sitting.


You obviously missed the previous post regarding the toothbrush. Go read it.
Closing the toilet prevents all sorts of interesting nightmares.


OK, now I'm confused.

How would closing the toilet have prevented the toothbrush from
entering the bowl?

If you read the post, as you suggested, you'll see that the toothbrush
got there because it was in a bucket that Mr. Green's SWMBO dumped
into the toilet.

There's only 2 ways a closed toilet would have prevented this:

1 - Mr. Green's SWMBO didn't notice the toilet was closed and dumped
the bucket on top of the seat. Highly unlikely.

2 - Mr. Green's SWMBO noticed the toilet was closed and decided to
dump the bucket elsewhere. Again, highly unlikely, since opening a
toilet isn't all that hard compared to dumping the bucket elsewhere.
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Default Toilet clog problem

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Sep 18, 7:16 am, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:
"Sam E" wrote in message

. com...

On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:


[snip]


People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need to
learn to LOOK before sitting.


You obviously missed the previous post regarding the toothbrush. Go read
it.
Closing the toilet prevents all sorts of interesting nightmares.


OK, now I'm confused.

How would closing the toilet have prevented the toothbrush from
entering the bowl?

If you read the post, as you suggested, you'll see that the toothbrush
got there because it was in a bucket that Mr. Green's SWMBO dumped
into the toilet.

There's only 2 ways a closed toilet would have prevented this:

1 - Mr. Green's SWMBO didn't notice the toilet was closed and dumped
the bucket on top of the seat. Highly unlikely.

2 - Mr. Green's SWMBO noticed the toilet was closed and decided to
dump the bucket elsewhere. Again, highly unlikely, since opening a
toilet isn't all that hard compared to dumping the bucket elsewhere.

===========


You're right. I did miss the toothbrush in the bucket thing. But even so,
people handle all sorts of interesting items in the bathroom, like razors,
nail clippers, etc. If there's a good reason for leaving the toilet open,
I'd love to hear about it. Houses present us with enough projects without
our having to create more just for fun.


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On Sep 16, 5:28*pm, Vic Smith wrote:

The tank was always about half the weight of the toilet, that's one
reason.
The tanks doubled the height of the toilet, and increased the depth by
about 25%.
Most were in a fairly tight space next to a vanity, so moving them out
is easier in 2 pieces, that's another reason.


I work in maintenance (in a nursing home) and pull bowls on a regular
basis. If you grab the toilet by the point of lid attachment...it
balances pretty well.
My estimation would be one third the weight for the tank (empty of
course!) and almost nothing added to the depth.
If I can't fit a dolly in the room to move it...I put the bowl between
my knees and waddle-walk it to where I can dolly it.
JM2.02

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On Sep 18, 10:07*am, Bob Villa wrote:
On Sep 16, 5:28*pm, Vic Smith wrote:

The tank was always about half the weight of the toilet, that's one
reason.
The tanks doubled the height of the toilet, and increased the depth by
about 25%.
Most were in a fairly tight space next to a vanity, so moving them out
is easier in 2 pieces, that's another reason.


I work in maintenance (in a nursing home) and pull bowls on a regular
basis. If you grab the toilet by the point of lid attachment...it
balances pretty well.
My estimation would be one third the weight for the tank (empty of
course!) and almost nothing added to the depth.
If I can't fit a dolly in the room to move it...I put the bowl between
my knees and waddle-walk it to where I can dolly it.
JM2.02


Well, it's nice to hear that my method is used by someone who works
"in the field". :-)

A question: do you ever have to lay the toilet over to clean the
bottom? Do you do this with the tank attached?
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On Sep 16, 6:28*pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 14:40:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:

"The tank should be removed first"


First? Why would you remove the tank at all?


I admit this question surprises me.
Sort of like asking why first remove the TV from the TV stand when
you're going to flip it over to fix a leg.
But maybe others do it that way.
I've pulled and/or replaced maybe 15-20 toilets, none real modern.
Had a job with a plumber for a while, and do my own plumbing.

The tank was always about half the weight of the toilet, that's one
reason.
The tanks doubled the height of the toilet, and increased the depth by
about 25%.
Most were in a fairly tight space next to a vanity, so moving them out
is easier in 2 pieces, that's another reason.

The first one I ever put in, I put the tank on before putting the bowl
on the stack. *When moving it in the tank wiggled on the washer and I
heard a slight crackling of ceramic.
I stopped right there and took the tank back off to check it.
It was okay. *But I never did that again.
Never broke a tank.
That's the big reason.

Do you really flip a toilet over with the tank on?
All the more power to you.
I have no experience with "modern" toilets.
Let's say post-1995.

--Vic


"The tanks doubled the height of the toilet, and increased the
depth by about 25%. "

I missed this part earlier. Toilets have changed!

The tank on my new toilet adds 0% to the depth of the unit. The rear
of the bowl is at least flush (no pun intended) with, if not *beyond*,
the rear of the tank.

That was the first thing I noticed when I brought the unit home. I
actually wasn't sure if the bowl would fit over the bolts without
touching the base board behind it, but it makes it by less than an
inch.

My old bowl had, I don't know, 4" - 5" between the bowl and the wall,
this new toilet has next to nothing. It also doesn't stick out as far
into the room, which is probably why they call it a "space saver".



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DerbyDad03 wrote in
:

On Sep 18, 7:16*am, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:
"Sam E" wrote in message

. com...

On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:


[snip]


People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need
to learn to LOOK before sitting.


You obviously missed the previous post regarding the toothbrush. Go
read

it.
Closing the toilet prevents all sorts of interesting nightmares.


OK, now I'm confused.

How would closing the toilet have prevented the toothbrush from
entering the bowl?

If you read the post, as you suggested, you'll see that the toothbrush
got there because it was in a bucket that Mr. Green's SWMBO dumped
into the toilet.

There's only 2 ways a closed toilet would have prevented this:

1 - Mr. Green's SWMBO didn't notice the toilet was closed and dumped
the bucket on top of the seat. Highly unlikely.

2 - Mr. Green's SWMBO noticed the toilet was closed and decided to
dump the bucket elsewhere. Again, highly unlikely, since opening a
toilet isn't all that hard compared to dumping the bucket elsewhere.


MR Green? Mister?! Usually the only people that call me Mr usually follow
it with a ticket :-)
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Sam E wrote in news:I3Rko.190272$V%2.37019
@unlimited.newshosting.com:

On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

[snip]


People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need to
learn to LOOK before sitting.


Personally, I'd prefer to see the seat up no matter what sex I was. Shows
consideration from previous standing user.
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"Red Green" wrote in message
...
Sam E wrote in news:I3Rko.190272$V%2.37019
@unlimited.newshosting.com:

On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

[snip]


People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need to
learn to LOOK before sitting.


Personally, I'd prefer to see the seat up no matter what sex I was. Shows
consideration from previous standing user.



I'll be more specific: I'm talking about the COVER. The whole thing. No
access without lifting the COVER.


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On Sep 19, 10:35*am, Red Green wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote :



On Sep 18, 7:16*am, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:
"Sam E" wrote in message


g.com...


On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:


[snip]


People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need
to learn to LOOK before sitting.


You obviously missed the previous post regarding the toothbrush. Go
read

it.
Closing the toilet prevents all sorts of interesting nightmares.


OK, now I'm confused.


How would closing the toilet have prevented the toothbrush from
entering the bowl?


If you read the post, as you suggested, you'll see that the toothbrush
got there because it was in a bucket that Mr. Green's SWMBO dumped
into the toilet.


There's only 2 ways a closed toilet would have prevented this:


1 - Mr. Green's SWMBO didn't notice the toilet was closed and dumped
the bucket on top of the seat. Highly unlikely.


2 - Mr. Green's SWMBO noticed the toilet was closed and decided to
dump the bucket elsewhere. Again, highly unlikely, since opening a
toilet isn't all that hard compared to dumping the bucket elsewhere.


MR Green? Mister?! Usually the only people that call me Mr usually follow
it with a ticket :-)


I got pulled over by a cop with Alzheimer.

"Sir, do I know why I pulled you over?"
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"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Sep 19, 10:35 am, Red Green wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote
:



On Sep 18, 7:16 am, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:
"Sam E" wrote in message


g.com...


On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:


[snip]


People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need
to learn to LOOK before sitting.


You obviously missed the previous post regarding the toothbrush. Go
read

it.
Closing the toilet prevents all sorts of interesting nightmares.


OK, now I'm confused.


How would closing the toilet have prevented the toothbrush from
entering the bowl?


If you read the post, as you suggested, you'll see that the toothbrush
got there because it was in a bucket that Mr. Green's SWMBO dumped
into the toilet.


There's only 2 ways a closed toilet would have prevented this:


1 - Mr. Green's SWMBO didn't notice the toilet was closed and dumped
the bucket on top of the seat. Highly unlikely.


2 - Mr. Green's SWMBO noticed the toilet was closed and decided to
dump the bucket elsewhere. Again, highly unlikely, since opening a
toilet isn't all that hard compared to dumping the bucket elsewhere.


MR Green? Mister?! Usually the only people that call me Mr usually follow
it with a ticket :-)


I got pulled over by a cop with Alzheimer.

"Sir, do I know why I pulled you over?"

=====

DRUM CRASH!




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On Sun, 19 Sep 2010 09:43:30 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sep 19, 10:35*am, Red Green wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote :



On Sep 18, 7:16*am, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:
"Sam E" wrote in message


g.com...


On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:


[snip]


People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need
to learn to LOOK before sitting.


You obviously missed the previous post regarding the toothbrush. Go
read
it.
Closing the toilet prevents all sorts of interesting nightmares.


OK, now I'm confused.


How would closing the toilet have prevented the toothbrush from
entering the bowl?


If you read the post, as you suggested, you'll see that the toothbrush
got there because it was in a bucket that Mr. Green's SWMBO dumped
into the toilet.


There's only 2 ways a closed toilet would have prevented this:


1 - Mr. Green's SWMBO didn't notice the toilet was closed and dumped
the bucket on top of the seat. Highly unlikely.


2 - Mr. Green's SWMBO noticed the toilet was closed and decided to
dump the bucket elsewhere. Again, highly unlikely, since opening a
toilet isn't all that hard compared to dumping the bucket elsewhere.


MR Green? Mister?! Usually the only people that call me Mr usually follow
it with a ticket :-)


I got pulled over by a cop with Alzheimer.

"Sir, do I know why I pulled you over?"


I understand it is not proper to answer that question with "no, but I'm sure
you're about to tell me".
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On 9/17/2010 5:28 PM, Sam E wrote:
On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:46:37 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

[snip]


People who leave toilet seats up should be waterboarded while
simultaneously having their genitals "cleaned" with a steel brush
running on a drill.


People who have problems with people who leave toilet seats up need to
learn to LOOK before sitting.


When my youngest 2 sisters were teenagers, they (plus usually a stray or
two) lived with my mother. I'd visit there once a month or so, since it
was 'the old home town', and I still knew people there at that point. In
short, a house full of women. They used to lecture me about leaving the
seat up, until I pointed out to them that they should be grateful I
bothered to lift it.

--
aem sends...
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