I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how
to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing
the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very
end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate
H and C and they leak when on.

On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 17:30:49 -0800 (PST), thebigguy
wrote:

I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how
to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing
the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very
end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate
H and C and they leak when on.

Pop the cap off, take out the screw and then cut the caulk around
""scution".... won't matter the order as long as the H or C is done
first with the water off.

IOW, take the cap off the handle, remove it and go from there.

Report back here with difficulties.

thebigguy wrote:
I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how
to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing
the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very
end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate
H and C and they leak when on.
Hi,
Leaks when on? Then it's not washer. Maybe O ring or replace the whole
cartridges.

thebigguy wrote in :

I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how
to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing
the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very
end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate
H and C and they leak when on.

Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister:

Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off.

Remove the handle cap by prying off.

Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen
with deposits.

Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with
deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...875&lpage=none

Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off.
Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.


-------
http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg

If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is
located at the blue arrow.

If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire
faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer.

If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as
little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that
little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...452&lpage=none


I used to fix them,
then I got smart and just started replacing the stem,
then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild
kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...7-72906-SK0273


Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options.

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
thebigguy wrote in
:

I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how
to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing
the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very
end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate
H and C and they leak when on.

Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister:

Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off.

Remove the handle cap by prying off.

Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen
with deposits.

Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with
deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...875&lpage=none

Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off.
Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.


-------
http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg

If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is
located at the blue arrow.

If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire
faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer.

If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as
little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that
little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly.


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...452&lpage=none


I used to fix them,
then I got smart and just started replacing the stem,
then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild
kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...7-72906-SK0273


Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options.

Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench and
plumbers grease.

Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem.

"Roger Shoaf" wrote in
:


"Red Green" wrote in message
...
thebigguy wrote in
:

I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering
how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw
holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on
the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There
is seperate H and C and they leak when on.

Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price
Pfister:

Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off.

Remove the handle cap by prying off.

Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen
with deposits.

Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with
deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=120988-94
3-03875&lpage=none

Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews
off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.


-------
http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg

If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is
located at the blue arrow.

If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire
faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer.

If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as
little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that
little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again
shortly.


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=176256-72
906-ST3452&lpage=none


I used to fix them,
then I got smart and just started replacing the stem,
then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild
kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=175847-72
906-SK0273


Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options.

Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench
and plumbers grease.

Yep. Good to mention.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...22-143-PP24005

And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench steps are
too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the
back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it but
it never actually happened to me.



Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem.

On Jan 2, 12:20*am, Red Green wrote:
"Roger Shoaf" wrote :





"Red Green" wrote in message
...
thebigguy wrote in
:

I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering
how to get to the washer. *There doesnt seem to be a small screw
holing the scution cap on, just caulk. *There is a cap that is on
the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. *There
is seperate H and C and they leak when on.

Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price
Pfister:

Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off.

Remove the handle cap by prying off.

Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen
* * with deposits.

Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with
* * deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=120988-94
3-03875&lpage=none

Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews
off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.

-------
http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg

If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is
located at the blue arrow.

If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire
faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer.

If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as
little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that
little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again
shortly.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=176256-72
906-ST3452&lpage=none

I used to fix them,
then I got smart and just started replacing the stem,
then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild
* * kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=175847-72
906-SK0273

Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options.

Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench
and plumbers grease.

Yep. Good to mention.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ductId=24522-1....

And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench steps are
too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the
back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it but
it never actually happened to me.



Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem.

Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and report
back!

On Jan 2, 1:25*am, thebigguy wrote:
On Jan 2, 12:20*am, Red Green wrote:



"Roger Shoaf" wrote :

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
thebigguy wrote in
:

I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering
how to get to the washer. *There doesnt seem to be a small screw
holing the scution cap on, just caulk. *There is a cap that is on
the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. *There
is seperate H and C and they leak when on.

Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price
Pfister:

Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off.

Remove the handle cap by prying off.

Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen
* * with deposits.

Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with
* * deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=120988-94
3-03875&lpage=none

Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews
off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.

-------
http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg

If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is
located at the blue arrow.

If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire
faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer.

If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as
little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that
little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again
shortly.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=176256-72
906-ST3452&lpage=none

I used to fix them,
then I got smart and just started replacing the stem,
then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild
* * kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=175847-72
906-SK0273

Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options.

Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench
and plumbers grease.

Yep. Good to mention.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ductId=24522-1...

And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench steps are
too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the
back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it but
it never actually happened to me.

Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem..

Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and report
back!

I have a photo of the setup, how can I post it?

thebigguy wrote in
:

On Jan 2, 1:25*am, thebigguy wrote:
On Jan 2, 12:20*am, Red Green wrote:



"Roger Shoaf" wrote
innews:1262407999.555420@new
s01.syix.com:

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
thebigguy wrote in
.
com
:

I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am
wondering how to get to the washer. *There doesnt seem to be a
small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. *There is a
cap that is o
n
the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well.
*The
re
is seperate H and C and they leak when on.

Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a
Price Pfister:

Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes
off.

Remove the handle cap by prying off.

Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen
* * with deposits.

Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with
* * deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1209
88-94
3-03875&lpage=none

Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then
unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.

-------
http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg

If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your
problem is located at the blue arrow.

If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow.
Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the
washer.

If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be
as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it
costs tha
t
little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again
shortly.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1762
56-72
906-ST3452&lpage=none

I used to fix them,
then I got smart and just started replacing the stem,
then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild
* * kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wr
ench

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1758
47-72
906-SK0273

Of course, your brand and installation will determine good
options.

Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat
wrench and plumbers grease.

Yep. Good to mention.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...oductId=24522-
1...

And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench
steps ar
e
too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the
back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it
but it never actually happened to me.

Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold
stem
.

Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and report
back!

I have a photo of the setup, how can I post it?


http://tinypic.com

No account or login required.
Upload the pic. It will give you the link to it back. Just click in the
one that says emails & IM's. Automatically gets copied to the clipboard.
Paste that link in a NG post.

On Jan 2, 9:39*am, Red Green wrote:
thebigguy wrote :



On Jan 2, 1:25 am, thebigguy wrote:
On Jan 2, 12:20 am, Red Green wrote:

"Roger Shoaf" wrote
innews:1262407999.555420@new
s01.syix.com:

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
thebigguy wrote in
.
com
:

I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am
wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a
small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a
cap that is o
n
the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well.
The
re
is seperate H and C and they leak when on.

Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a
Price Pfister:

Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes
off.

Remove the handle cap by prying off.

Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen
with deposits.

Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with
deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1209
88-94
3-03875&lpage=none

Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then
unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.

-------
http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg

If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your
problem is located at the blue arrow.

If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow.
Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the
washer.

If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be
as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it
costs tha
t
little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again
shortly.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1762
56-72
906-ST3452&lpage=none

I used to fix them,
then I got smart and just started replacing the stem,
then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild
kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wr
ench

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1758
47-72
906-SK0273

Of course, your brand and installation will determine good
options.

Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat
wrench and plumbers grease.

Yep. Good to mention.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...oductId=24522-
1...

And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench
steps ar
e
too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the
back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it
but it never actually happened to me.

Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold
stem
.

Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and report
back!

I have a photo of the setup, how can I post it?

http://tinypic.com

No account or login required.
Upload the pic. It will give you the link to it back. Just click in the
one that says emails & IM's. Automatically gets copied to the clipboard.
Paste that link in a NG post.

OK here is the pic
http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6

On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 13:10:23 -0800 (PST), thebigguy
wrote:

On Jan 2, 9:39*am, Red Green wrote:
thebigguy wrote :



On Jan 2, 1:25 am, thebigguy wrote:
On Jan 2, 12:20 am, Red Green wrote:

"Roger Shoaf" wrote
innews:1262407999.555420@new
s01.syix.com:

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
thebigguy wrote in
.
com
:

I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am
wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a
small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a
cap that is o
n
the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well.
The
re
is seperate H and C and they leak when on.

Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a
Price Pfister:

Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes
off.

Remove the handle cap by prying off.

Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen
with deposits.

Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with
deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1209
88-94
3-03875&lpage=none

Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then
unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.

-------
http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg

If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your
problem is located at the blue arrow.

If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow.
Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the
washer.

If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be
as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it
costs tha
t
little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again
shortly.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1762
56-72
906-ST3452&lpage=none

I used to fix them,
then I got smart and just started replacing the stem,
then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild
kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wr
ench

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1758
47-72
906-SK0273

Of course, your brand and installation will determine good
options.

Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat
wrench and plumbers grease.

Yep. Good to mention.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...oductId=24522-
1...

And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench
steps ar
e
too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the
back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it
but it never actually happened to me.

Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold
stem
.

Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and report
back!

I have a photo of the setup, how can I post it?

http://tinypic.com

No account or login required.
Upload the pic. It will give you the link to it back. Just click in the
one that says emails & IM's. Automatically gets copied to the clipboard.
Paste that link in a NG post.

OK here is the pic
http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6

What others said.

Turn off the water supply

Close the tub drain (or tape it) so you don't drop the cap into the
drain.

Remove the stem cap by prying it off (tip of a utility knife blade
behind it) or small screwdriver.

Remove the screw and the escutcheon may just slip off after caulk is
cut.

As mentioned, a whole new stem may be better.

Some stems are left/right (?) so don't get the wrong ones. Good luck.

thebigguy wrote in
:

On Jan 2, 9:39*am, Red Green wrote:
thebigguy wrote
innews:495f07ee-9b43-4409-9489-df0
:



On Jan 2, 1:25 am, thebigguy wrote:
On Jan 2, 12:20 am, Red Green wrote:

"Roger Shoaf" wrote
innews:1262407999.555420@new
s01.syix.com:

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
thebigguy wrote in

ps. com
:

I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am
wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be
a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There
is a cap that is o
n
the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well.
The
re
is seperate H and C and they leak when on.

Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a
Price Pfister:

Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon
comes off.

Remove the handle cap by prying off.

Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be
frozen with deposits.

Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with
deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...il&productId=1
209
88-94
3-03875&lpage=none

Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then
unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.

-------
http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg

If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your
problem is located at the blue arrow.

If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow.
Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace
the washer.

If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can
be as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if
it costs tha
t
little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak
again shortly.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...il&productId=1
762
56-72
906-ST3452&lpage=none

I used to fix them,
then I got smart and just started replacing the stem,
then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole
rebuild kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket
faucet wr
ench

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...il&productId=1
758
47-72
906-SK0273

Of course, your brand and installation will determine good
options.

Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat
wrench and plumbers grease.

Yep. Good to mention.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...&productId=245
22-
1...

And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench
steps ar
e
too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit
the back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned
about it but it never actually happened to me.

Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and
cold stem
.

Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and
report back!

I have a photo of the setup, how can I post it?

http://tinypic.com

No account or login required.
Upload the pic. It will give you the link to it back. Just click in
the one that says emails & IM's. Automatically gets copied to the
clipboard. Paste that link in a NG post.

OK here is the pic
http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6

Looks rough there. I hope that isn't caulk where the faucet stem goes
into the escutcheon. Just an FYI. Generally when I caulk the escutcheon
to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if water does
get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom. Don't count on it
though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty flush.

If you choose to replace the stem, of course bring it with you. There may
be markings on it to ID it. For instance, I've seen, looking closely, a
PF on Price Phister's.

Oh, yea. Think I forgot that little detail of Oren's about turning off
the water :-)

"thebigguy" wrote in message
...
On Jan 2, 9:39 am, Red Green wrote:

OK here is the pic
http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6

Looks to me like American Standard.

I believe the escutions do unscrew, thin wire or dental floss might be best
to cut the caulk. Heat from a heat gun might also help. On some of these
the H & C buttons actually are threaded in, the threaded buttons usually
have a knurl. Hard to see in your photo.

Some of these have fixed seats rather than replaceable ones and if the seat
is bad you need to resurface the seat with a little cutter. Once you have
the stem out look in the hole. Removable seats will have a square or hex
hole for the seat wrench.

Good luck.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

"Roger Shoaf" wrote in
:


"thebigguy" wrote in message
..
. On Jan 2, 9:39 am, Red Green wrote:

OK here is the pic
http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6

Looks to me like American Standard.

I believe the escutions do unscrew, thin wire or dental floss might be
best to cut the caulk. Heat from a heat gun might also help. On
some of these the H & C buttons actually are threaded in, the threaded
buttons usually have a knurl. Hard to see in your photo.

Some of these have fixed seats rather than replaceable ones and if the
seat is bad you need to resurface the seat with a little cutter.

Sounds nasty. Thank goodness for POS Price Pfister.

Once
you have the stem out look in the hole. Removable seats will have a
square or hex hole for the seat wrench.

Good luck.

On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 17:26:54 -0600, Red Green
wrote:

Generally when I caulk the escutcheon
to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if water does
get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom. Don't count on it
though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty flush.

I go 360 around them without a problem. Same for the shower pipe
escutcheon.

The tub spout is another bowl of beans. The spout has a small hole at
6 o'clock (near the set screw) for drainage back into the tub. If this
is caulked all the way around, water will leak back into the wall.

Oren wrote in
:

On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 17:26:54 -0600, Red Green
wrote:

Generally when I caulk the escutcheon
to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if water
does get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom. Don't
count on it though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty flush.

I go 360 around them without a problem. Same for the shower pipe
escutcheon.

Wouldn't question 7-5 or 360 is better or worse than the other.


The tub spout is another bowl of beans. The spout has a small hole at
6 o'clock (near the set screw) for drainage back into the tub. If this
is caulked all the way around, water will leak back into the wall.


Exactly. And that's not necessairly easy on an escutcheon. No notch
because you don't know where it's gonna stop tight. I've fitted them,
removed, made a notch then installed permanently. Probably a waste of
tiem...except for the warm-fuzzy.

On Jan 2, 9:57*pm, Red Green wrote:
Oren wrote :

On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 17:26:54 -0600, Red Green
wrote:

Generally when I caulk the escutcheon
to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if water
does get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom. Don't
count on it though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty flush.

I go 360 around them without a problem. Same for the shower pipe
escutcheon.

Wouldn't question 7-5 or 360 is better or worse than the other.



The tub spout is another bowl of beans. The spout has a small hole at
6 o'clock (near the set screw) for drainage back into the tub. If this
is caulked all the way around, water will leak back into the wall.

Exactly. And that's not necessairly easy on an escutcheon. No notch
because you don't know where it's gonna stop tight. I've fitted them,
removed, made a notch then installed permanently. Probably a waste of
tiem...except for the warm-fuzzy.

The cap in knurled...the spout needs help too because the diverter
valve doesnt completely shut off water to the spout when the thing is
up. Thanks for all the info though...I assume the spout is threaded
on and will turn off?

thebigguy wrote in
:

On Jan 2, 9:57*pm, Red Green wrote:
Oren wrote
innews:vd00k59ad9fcdmuqfq96sm2uvp81jcsjfh@4ax
.com:

On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 17:26:54 -0600, Red Green
wrote:

Generally when I caulk the escutcheon
to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if
water does get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom.
Don't count on it though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty
flush.

I go 360 around them without a problem. Same for the shower pipe
escutcheon.

Wouldn't question 7-5 or 360 is better or worse than the other.



The tub spout is another bowl of beans. The spout has a small hole
at 6 o'clock (near the set screw) for drainage back into the tub.
If this is caulked all the way around, water will leak back into
the wall.

Exactly. And that's not necessairly easy on an escutcheon. No notch
because you don't know where it's gonna stop tight. I've fitted them,
removed, made a notch then installed permanently. Probably a waste of
tiem...except for the warm-fuzzy.

The cap in knurled...the spout needs help too because the diverter
valve doesnt completely shut off water to the spout when the thing is
up. Thanks for all the info though...I assume the spout is threaded
on and will turn off?


Yes, turns off. Again, how easily depends on how corroded.