View Single Post
  #12   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
Red Green Red Green is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,946
Default Plumbing Question

thebigguy wrote in
:

On Jan 2, 9:39*am, Red Green wrote:
thebigguy wrote
innews:495f07ee-9b43-4409-9489-df0

:



On Jan 2, 1:25 am, thebigguy wrote:
On Jan 2, 12:20 am, Red Green wrote:


"Roger Shoaf" wrote
innews:1262407999.555420@new
s01.syix.com:


"Red Green" wrote in message
...
thebigguy wrote in

ps. com
:


I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am
wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be
a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There
is a cap that is o
n
the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well.
The
re
is seperate H and C and they leak when on.


Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a
Price Pfister:


Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon
comes off.


Remove the handle cap by prying off.


Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be
frozen with deposits.


Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with
deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...il&productId=1
209
88-94
3-03875&lpage=none


Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then
unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.


-------
http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg


If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your
problem is located at the blue arrow.


If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow.
Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace
the washer.


If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can
be as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if
it costs tha
t
little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak
again shortly.


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...il&productId=1

762
56-72
906-ST3452&lpage=none


I used to fix them,
then I got smart and just started replacing the stem,
then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole
rebuild kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket
faucet wr
ench


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...il&productId=1

758
47-72
906-SK0273


Of course, your brand and installation will determine good
options.


Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat
wrench and plumbers grease.


Yep. Good to mention.


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...&productId=245

22-
1...


And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench
steps ar
e
too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit
the back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned
about it but it never actually happened to me.


Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and
cold stem
.


Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and
report back!


I have a photo of the setup, how can I post it?


http://tinypic.com

No account or login required.
Upload the pic. It will give you the link to it back. Just click in
the one that says emails & IM's. Automatically gets copied to the
clipboard. Paste that link in a NG post.


OK here is the pic
http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6


Looks rough there. I hope that isn't caulk where the faucet stem goes
into the escutcheon. Just an FYI. Generally when I caulk the escutcheon
to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if water does
get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom. Don't count on it
though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty flush.

If you choose to replace the stem, of course bring it with you. There may
be markings on it to ID it. For instance, I've seen, looking closely, a
PF on Price Phister's.

Oh, yea. Think I forgot that little detail of Oren's about turning off
the water :-)