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Plumbing Question
I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how
to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate H and C and they leak when on. |
Plumbing Question
On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 17:30:49 -0800 (PST), thebigguy
wrote: I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate H and C and they leak when on. Pop the cap off, take out the screw and then cut the caulk around ""scution".... won't matter the order as long as the H or C is done first with the water off. IOW, take the cap off the handle, remove it and go from there. Report back here with difficulties. |
Plumbing Question
thebigguy wrote:
I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate H and C and they leak when on. Hi, Leaks when on? Then it's not washer. Maybe O ring or replace the whole cartridges. |
Plumbing Question
thebigguy wrote in :
I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate H and C and they leak when on. Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister: Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off. Remove the handle cap by prying off. Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen with deposits. Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...875&lpage=none Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic. ------- http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is located at the blue arrow. If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer. If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...452&lpage=none I used to fix them, then I got smart and just started replacing the stem, then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...7-72906-SK0273 Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options. |
Plumbing Question
"Red Green" wrote in message ... thebigguy wrote in : I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate H and C and they leak when on. Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister: Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off. Remove the handle cap by prying off. Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen with deposits. Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...875&lpage=none Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic. ------- http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is located at the blue arrow. If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer. If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...452&lpage=none I used to fix them, then I got smart and just started replacing the stem, then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...7-72906-SK0273 Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options. Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench and plumbers grease. Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem. |
Plumbing Question
"Roger Shoaf" wrote in
: "Red Green" wrote in message ... thebigguy wrote in : I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate H and C and they leak when on. Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister: Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off. Remove the handle cap by prying off. Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen with deposits. Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=120988-94 3-03875&lpage=none Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic. ------- http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is located at the blue arrow. If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer. If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=176256-72 906-ST3452&lpage=none I used to fix them, then I got smart and just started replacing the stem, then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=175847-72 906-SK0273 Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options. Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench and plumbers grease. Yep. Good to mention. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...22-143-PP24005 And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench steps are too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it but it never actually happened to me. Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem. |
Plumbing Question
On Jan 2, 12:20*am, Red Green wrote:
"Roger Shoaf" wrote : "Red Green" wrote in message ... thebigguy wrote in : I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how to get to the washer. *There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. *There is a cap that is on the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. *There is seperate H and C and they leak when on. Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister: Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off. Remove the handle cap by prying off. Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen * * with deposits. Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with * * deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=120988-94 3-03875&lpage=none Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic. ------- http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is located at the blue arrow. If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer. If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=176256-72 906-ST3452&lpage=none I used to fix them, then I got smart and just started replacing the stem, then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild * * kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=175847-72 906-SK0273 Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options. Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench and plumbers grease. Yep. Good to mention. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ductId=24522-1.... And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench steps are too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it but it never actually happened to me. Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem. Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and report back! |
Plumbing Question
On Jan 2, 1:25*am, thebigguy wrote:
On Jan 2, 12:20*am, Red Green wrote: "Roger Shoaf" wrote : "Red Green" wrote in message ... thebigguy wrote in : I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how to get to the washer. *There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. *There is a cap that is on the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. *There is seperate H and C and they leak when on. Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister: Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off. Remove the handle cap by prying off. Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen * * with deposits. Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with * * deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=120988-94 3-03875&lpage=none Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic. ------- http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is located at the blue arrow. If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer. If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=176256-72 906-ST3452&lpage=none I used to fix them, then I got smart and just started replacing the stem, then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild * * kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ctId=175847-72 906-SK0273 Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options. Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench and plumbers grease. Yep. Good to mention. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ductId=24522-1... And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench steps are too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it but it never actually happened to me. Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem.. Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and report back! I have a photo of the setup, how can I post it? |
Plumbing Question
thebigguy wrote in
: On Jan 2, 1:25*am, thebigguy wrote: On Jan 2, 12:20*am, Red Green wrote: "Roger Shoaf" wrote innews:1262407999.555420@new s01.syix.com: "Red Green" wrote in message ... thebigguy wrote in . com : I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how to get to the washer. *There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. *There is a cap that is o n the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. *The re is seperate H and C and they leak when on. Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister: Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off. Remove the handle cap by prying off. Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen * * with deposits. Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with * * deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1209 88-94 3-03875&lpage=none Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic. ------- http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is located at the blue arrow. If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer. If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs tha t little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1762 56-72 906-ST3452&lpage=none I used to fix them, then I got smart and just started replacing the stem, then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild * * kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wr ench http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1758 47-72 906-SK0273 Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options. Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench and plumbers grease. Yep. Good to mention. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...oductId=24522- 1... And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench steps ar e too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it but it never actually happened to me. Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem . Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and report back! I have a photo of the setup, how can I post it? http://tinypic.com No account or login required. Upload the pic. It will give you the link to it back. Just click in the one that says emails & IM's. Automatically gets copied to the clipboard. Paste that link in a NG post. |
Plumbing Question
On Jan 2, 9:39*am, Red Green wrote:
thebigguy wrote : On Jan 2, 1:25 am, thebigguy wrote: On Jan 2, 12:20 am, Red Green wrote: "Roger Shoaf" wrote innews:1262407999.555420@new s01.syix.com: "Red Green" wrote in message ... thebigguy wrote in . com : I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is o n the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. The re is seperate H and C and they leak when on. Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister: Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off. Remove the handle cap by prying off. Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen with deposits. Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1209 88-94 3-03875&lpage=none Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic. ------- http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is located at the blue arrow. If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer. If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs tha t little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1762 56-72 906-ST3452&lpage=none I used to fix them, then I got smart and just started replacing the stem, then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wr ench http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1758 47-72 906-SK0273 Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options. Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench and plumbers grease. Yep. Good to mention. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...oductId=24522- 1... And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench steps ar e too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it but it never actually happened to me. Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem . Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and report back! I have a photo of the setup, how can I post it? http://tinypic.com No account or login required. Upload the pic. It will give you the link to it back. Just click in the one that says emails & IM's. Automatically gets copied to the clipboard. Paste that link in a NG post. OK here is the pic http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6 |
Plumbing Question
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 13:10:23 -0800 (PST), thebigguy
wrote: On Jan 2, 9:39*am, Red Green wrote: thebigguy wrote : On Jan 2, 1:25 am, thebigguy wrote: On Jan 2, 12:20 am, Red Green wrote: "Roger Shoaf" wrote innews:1262407999.555420@new s01.syix.com: "Red Green" wrote in message ... thebigguy wrote in . com : I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is o n the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. The re is seperate H and C and they leak when on. Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister: Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off. Remove the handle cap by prying off. Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen with deposits. Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1209 88-94 3-03875&lpage=none Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic. ------- http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is located at the blue arrow. If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer. If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs tha t little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1762 56-72 906-ST3452&lpage=none I used to fix them, then I got smart and just started replacing the stem, then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wr ench http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...productId=1758 47-72 906-SK0273 Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options. Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench and plumbers grease. Yep. Good to mention. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...oductId=24522- 1... And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench steps ar e too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it but it never actually happened to me. Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem . Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and report back! I have a photo of the setup, how can I post it? http://tinypic.com No account or login required. Upload the pic. It will give you the link to it back. Just click in the one that says emails & IM's. Automatically gets copied to the clipboard. Paste that link in a NG post. OK here is the pic http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6 What others said. Turn off the water supply Close the tub drain (or tape it) so you don't drop the cap into the drain. Remove the stem cap by prying it off (tip of a utility knife blade behind it) or small screwdriver. Remove the screw and the escutcheon may just slip off after caulk is cut. As mentioned, a whole new stem may be better. Some stems are left/right (?) so don't get the wrong ones. Good luck. |
Plumbing Question
"thebigguy" wrote in message ... On Jan 2, 9:39 am, Red Green wrote: OK here is the pic http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6 Looks to me like American Standard. I believe the escutions do unscrew, thin wire or dental floss might be best to cut the caulk. Heat from a heat gun might also help. On some of these the H & C buttons actually are threaded in, the threaded buttons usually have a knurl. Hard to see in your photo. Some of these have fixed seats rather than replaceable ones and if the seat is bad you need to resurface the seat with a little cutter. Once you have the stem out look in the hole. Removable seats will have a square or hex hole for the seat wrench. Good luck. -- Roger Shoaf About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then they come up with this striped stuff. |
Plumbing Question
"Roger Shoaf" wrote in
: "thebigguy" wrote in message .. . On Jan 2, 9:39 am, Red Green wrote: OK here is the pic http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6 Looks to me like American Standard. I believe the escutions do unscrew, thin wire or dental floss might be best to cut the caulk. Heat from a heat gun might also help. On some of these the H & C buttons actually are threaded in, the threaded buttons usually have a knurl. Hard to see in your photo. Some of these have fixed seats rather than replaceable ones and if the seat is bad you need to resurface the seat with a little cutter. Sounds nasty. Thank goodness for POS Price Pfister. Once you have the stem out look in the hole. Removable seats will have a square or hex hole for the seat wrench. Good luck. |
Plumbing Question
On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 17:26:54 -0600, Red Green
wrote: Generally when I caulk the escutcheon to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if water does get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom. Don't count on it though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty flush. I go 360 around them without a problem. Same for the shower pipe escutcheon. The tub spout is another bowl of beans. The spout has a small hole at 6 o'clock (near the set screw) for drainage back into the tub. If this is caulked all the way around, water will leak back into the wall. |
Plumbing Question
Oren wrote in
: On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 17:26:54 -0600, Red Green wrote: Generally when I caulk the escutcheon to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if water does get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom. Don't count on it though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty flush. I go 360 around them without a problem. Same for the shower pipe escutcheon. Wouldn't question 7-5 or 360 is better or worse than the other. The tub spout is another bowl of beans. The spout has a small hole at 6 o'clock (near the set screw) for drainage back into the tub. If this is caulked all the way around, water will leak back into the wall. Exactly. And that's not necessairly easy on an escutcheon. No notch because you don't know where it's gonna stop tight. I've fitted them, removed, made a notch then installed permanently. Probably a waste of tiem...except for the warm-fuzzy. |
Plumbing Question
On Jan 2, 9:57*pm, Red Green wrote:
Oren wrote : On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 17:26:54 -0600, Red Green wrote: Generally when I caulk the escutcheon to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if water does get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom. Don't count on it though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty flush. I go 360 around them without a problem. Same for the shower pipe escutcheon. Wouldn't question 7-5 or 360 is better or worse than the other. The tub spout is another bowl of beans. The spout has a small hole at 6 o'clock (near the set screw) for drainage back into the tub. If this is caulked all the way around, water will leak back into the wall. Exactly. And that's not necessairly easy on an escutcheon. No notch because you don't know where it's gonna stop tight. I've fitted them, removed, made a notch then installed permanently. Probably a waste of tiem...except for the warm-fuzzy. The cap in knurled...the spout needs help too because the diverter valve doesnt completely shut off water to the spout when the thing is up. Thanks for all the info though...I assume the spout is threaded on and will turn off? |
Plumbing Question
thebigguy wrote in
: On Jan 2, 9:57*pm, Red Green wrote: Oren wrote innews:vd00k59ad9fcdmuqfq96sm2uvp81jcsjfh@4ax .com: On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 17:26:54 -0600, Red Green wrote: Generally when I caulk the escutcheon to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if water does get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom. Don't count on it though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty flush. I go 360 around them without a problem. Same for the shower pipe escutcheon. Wouldn't question 7-5 or 360 is better or worse than the other. The tub spout is another bowl of beans. The spout has a small hole at 6 o'clock (near the set screw) for drainage back into the tub. If this is caulked all the way around, water will leak back into the wall. Exactly. And that's not necessairly easy on an escutcheon. No notch because you don't know where it's gonna stop tight. I've fitted them, removed, made a notch then installed permanently. Probably a waste of tiem...except for the warm-fuzzy. The cap in knurled...the spout needs help too because the diverter valve doesnt completely shut off water to the spout when the thing is up. Thanks for all the info though...I assume the spout is threaded on and will turn off? Yes, turns off. Again, how easily depends on how corroded. |
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