I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to pass
PVC pipes across. However I did not realize a 2" hole saw does not make a
hole large enough for a 2" pipe because the 2" is nominal and not outer
diameter.

Now I need to enlarge the hole by about 1/2". My hole saw is not deep
enough to cut a 2x, so previously I cut from both ends and made the cut.
Now that the middle is hollow how can I make a 2.5" hole from a 2" hole?

One solution I think that may work, is to find another piece of 2x and cut a
2" hole, and use the circular wood plug from the cut and insert that into
the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. May be there is a better
way?

MC

MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to pass
PVC pipes across. However I did not realize a 2" hole saw does not make a
hole large enough for a 2" pipe because the 2" is nominal and not outer
diameter.

Now I need to enlarge the hole by about 1/2". My hole saw is not deep
enough to cut a 2x, so previously I cut from both ends and made the cut.
Now that the middle is hollow how can I make a 2.5" hole from a 2" hole?

One solution I think that may work, is to find another piece of 2x and cut a
2" hole, and use the circular wood plug from the cut and insert that into
the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. May be there is a better
way?

I'd probably just hog out enough w/ the sawzall to get 'em thru and go on.

--

how about cutting a @ 2 1/2 inch in a piece of 2x4 and
screwing that over the center of the 2 inch hole, and using
the 2 1/2 inch hole as a guide..


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to pass
PVC pipes across. However I did not realize a 2" hole saw does not make a
hole large enough for a 2" pipe because the 2" is nominal and not outer
diameter.

Now I need to enlarge the hole by about 1/2". My hole saw is not deep
enough to cut a 2x, so previously I cut from both ends and made the cut.
Now that the middle is hollow how can I make a 2.5" hole from a 2" hole?

One solution I think that may work, is to find another piece of 2x and cut
a 2" hole, and use the circular wood plug from the cut and insert that
into the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. May be there is a
better way?

MC

dpb wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to
pass PVC pipes across. However I did not realize a 2" hole saw does
not make a hole large enough for a 2" pipe because the 2" is nominal
and not outer diameter.

Now I need to enlarge the hole by about 1/2". My hole saw is not deep
enough to cut a 2x, so previously I cut from both ends and made the
cut. Now that the middle is hollow how can I make a 2.5" hole from a
2" hole?

One solution I think that may work, is to find another piece of 2x and
cut a 2" hole, and use the circular wood plug from the cut and insert
that into the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. May be
there is a better way?

I'd probably just hog out enough w/ the sawzall to get 'em thru and go on.

--

And if the wall is load-bearing, even slightly (like if shelves will be
hung off it), I'd add blocking and maybe even a layer of plywood under
the drywall. That is almost half the cross-section of the stud.

--
aem sends...

On Oct 13, 10:28*pm, dpb wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:

I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to pass
PVC pipes across. *However I did not realize a 2" hole saw does not make a
hole large enough for a 2" pipe because the 2" is nominal and not outer
diameter.

Now I need to enlarge the hole by about 1/2". *My hole saw is not deep
enough to cut a 2x, so previously I cut from both ends and made the cut..
Now that the middle is hollow how can I make a 2.5" hole from a 2" hole?

One solution I think that may work, is to find another piece of 2x and cut a
2" hole, and use the circular wood plug from the cut and insert that into
the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. *May be there is a better
way?

I'd probably just hog out enough w/ the sawzall to get 'em thru and go on..

Sounds more like amputation than surgery. =:O

R

On Oct 13, 10:32*pm, "nefletch" wrote:
how about cutting a *@ 2 1/2 inch in a piece of 2x4 and
screwing that over the center of the 2 inch hole, and using
the 2 1/2 inch hole as a guide..

This is the standard way of enlarging a hole. I use scrap 3/4"
plywood as it's less likely to create problems of depth, you can use
the ubiquitous 1 1/4" drywall screws to attach it, and the plywood
won't split with repeated use.

R

On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 22:19:47 -0400, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to pass
PVC pipes across. However I did not realize a 2" hole saw does not make a
hole large enough for a 2" pipe because the 2" is nominal and not outer
diameter.

Now I need to enlarge the hole by about 1/2". My hole saw is not deep
enough to cut a 2x, so previously I cut from both ends and made the cut.
Now that the middle is hollow how can I make a 2.5" hole from a 2" hole?

One solution I think that may work, is to find another piece of 2x and cut a
2" hole, and use the circular wood plug from the cut and insert that into
the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. May be there is a better
way?

MC

I had a similar problem 3 weeks ago. The "rotozip" made short work of
it - along with setting off the smoke alarm.

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
dpb wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to
pass PVC pipes across. However I did not realize a 2" hole saw does not
make a hole large enough for a 2" pipe because the 2" is nominal and not
outer diameter.

Now I need to enlarge the hole by about 1/2". My hole saw is not deep
enough to cut a 2x, so previously I cut from both ends and made the cut.
Now that the middle is hollow how can I make a 2.5" hole from a 2" hole?

One solution I think that may work, is to find another piece of 2x and
cut a 2" hole, and use the circular wood plug from the cut and insert
that into the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. May be there
is a better way?

I'd probably just hog out enough w/ the sawzall to get 'em thru and go
on.

--

And if the wall is load-bearing, even slightly (like if shelves will be
hung off it), I'd add blocking and maybe even a layer of plywood under the
drywall. That is almost half the cross-section of the stud.

--
aem sends...

It is not load bearing but I will reinforce it anyways.

Ahhh good idea! Thanks!

"nefletch" wrote in message
news
how about cutting a @ 2 1/2 inch in a piece of 2x4 and
screwing that over the center of the 2 inch hole, and using
the 2 1/2 inch hole as a guide..


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to pass
PVC pipes across. However I did not realize a 2" hole saw does not make a
hole large enough for a 2" pipe because the 2" is nominal and not outer
diameter.

Now I need to enlarge the hole by about 1/2". My hole saw is not deep
enough to cut a 2x, so previously I cut from both ends and made the cut.
Now that the middle is hollow how can I make a 2.5" hole from a 2" hole?

One solution I think that may work, is to find another piece of 2x and
cut a 2" hole, and use the circular wood plug from the cut and insert
that into the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. May be there
is a better way?

MC

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Oct 13, 10:32 pm, "nefletch" wrote:
how about cutting a @ 2 1/2 inch in a piece of 2x4 and
screwing that over the center of the 2 inch hole, and using
the 2 1/2 inch hole as a guide..

This is the standard way of enlarging a hole. I use scrap 3/4"
plywood as it's less likely to create problems of depth, you can use
the ubiquitous 1 1/4" drywall screws to attach it, and the plywood
won't split with repeated use.

R

Even better! Problem solved! Thanks RicodJour.

On Oct 13, 8:34*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

...
On Oct 13, 10:32 pm, "nefletch" wrote:

how about cutting a @ 2 1/2 inch in a piece of 2x4 and
screwing that over the center of the 2 inch hole, and using
the 2 1/2 inch hole as a guide..

This is the standard way of enlarging a hole. *I use scrap 3/4"
plywood as it's less likely to create problems of depth, you can use
the ubiquitous 1 1/4" drywall screws to attach it, and the plywood
won't split with repeated use.

R

Even better! *Problem solved! *Thanks RicodJour.

And if oyu want to do the "plywood guide thing" AND reinforce the
studs.......

slap on a pre-drilled piece on plywood on one side & a non-drilled
piec of plywood on the other side.

Make the pieces of plywood ~5.5 x ~14". Center the drilled over the
old hole (or where ever).
glue & screw the plywood to the stud and cut the holes.

You're done & the studs are reinforced as well.

cheers
Bob

"RicodJour" wrote in message
news:cd4e801d-b05e-485c-8fee-
This is the standard way of enlarging a hole. I use scrap 3/4"
plywood as it's less likely to create problems of depth, you can use
the ubiquitous 1 1/4" drywall screws to attach it, and the plywood
won't split with repeated use.

R


Or our friends at Lee Valley have this:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to
pass PVC pipes across. However I did not realize a 2" hole saw does
not make a hole large enough for a 2" pipe because the 2" is nominal
and not outer diameter.

Now I need to enlarge the hole by about 1/2". My hole saw is not deep
enough to cut a 2x, so previously I cut from both ends and made the
cut. Now that the middle is hollow how can I make a 2.5" hole from a
2" hole?
One solution I think that may work, is to find another piece of 2x
and cut a 2" hole, and use the circular wood plug from the cut and
insert that into the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. May be
there is a better way?

Not so neat hole, use the sawzall.

Neat hole, router (if room)...a 1/2" bit with 1/4 shank bit can do it by
extending the cutter partially through the hole so you can use the shank to
guide on the existing hole; after doing that, use a 1/4" cutter from the
opposite side (or bottom bearing flush trim bit from the same side) and
guide the shank on the enlarged portion of the hole to trim the rest of the
hole to size.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

MiamiCuse wrote:
"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
....
And if the wall is load-bearing, even slightly (like if shelves will be
hung off it), I'd add blocking and maybe even a layer of plywood under the
drywall. That is almost half the cross-section of the stud.

--
aem sends...

It is not load bearing but I will reinforce it anyways.
....

Not as bad as aem makes it sound-- that's why start w/ 2x6 studs for wet
walls. Even if take 2-1/2" out you're still only roughly 1/2" shy of
full-dimension 2x4 and you give that no second thought at all. For
interior fill-in wall you'll never know the difference. Only thing you
may want/need will be the nailing protection covers to ensure don't nail
into it during later construction.

--

RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 13, 10:28 pm, dpb wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:

I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to pass
PVC pipes across. ....
... and use the circular wood plug from the cut and insert that into
the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. May be there is a better
way?
I'd probably just hog out enough w/ the sawzall to get 'em thru and go on.

Sounds more like amputation than surgery. =:O

Yeppers...it's only a hole to get a piece of pipe thru that will be
covered up anyway. No sense in making a monumental effort here; spend
the time and effort where it'll make a noticeable (and useful) difference.

--

On Oct 14, 8:20*am, "Doug Brown" wrote:

Or our friends at Lee Valley have this:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.....at=1,180,42316

That's pretty funny, and could be very useful. Since it uses the
original hole, if the center is off you won't be able to tweak the
final hole location. Still, it's a fast and cheap way to fix most
such things.

R

On Oct 14, 8:20*am, "Doug Brown" wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

news:cd4e801d-b05e-485c-8fee-
This is the standard way of enlarging a hole. *I use scrap 3/4"
plywood as it's less likely to create problems of depth, you can use
the ubiquitous 1 1/4" drywall screws to attach it, and the plywood
won't split with repeated use.

R

Or our friends at Lee Valley have this:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.....at=1,180,42316

I don't use holes saw too often so I have a question about this line
from the website:

"...mandrel is threaded to accept saws with 1/2" and 5/8" diameter
mounting holes."

The hole saws listed at the Lee valley site don't say anything about
the mounting hole size, but based on the description of the 2
mandrels, it appears that they all have the same size mounting hole.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

Does that mean I could buy the Opps Arbor from Lee valley, but would
have to find hole saws with the correct size mounting holes from some
other source?

On Oct 14, 10:30*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 14, 8:20*am, "Doug Brown" wrote:

Or our friends at Lee Valley have this:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

I don't use holes saw too often so I have a question about this line
from the website:

"...mandrel is threaded to accept saws with 1/2" and 5/8" diameter
mounting holes."

The hole saws listed at the Lee valley site don't say anything about
the mounting hole size, but based on the description of the 2
mandrels, it appears that they all have the same size mounting hole.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

Does that mean I could buy the Opps Arbor from Lee valley, but would
have to find hole saws with the correct size mounting holes from some
other source?

Only the ones with which you usually make your mistakes.

I hadn't picked up on the different thread size requirement. That
cuts way down on the cheapness and convenience quotients.

In any event, that double mounting arbor is interesting, but I'd
REALLY like to see something that would let you drill a smaller hole
after you drilled one too big. Similar to the 2x4 extender attachment
on my circular saw.

R

On Oct 14, 10:39*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 14, 10:30*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Oct 14, 8:20*am, "Doug Brown" wrote:

Or our friends at Lee Valley have this:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

I don't use holes saw too often so I have a question about this line
from the website:

"...mandrel is threaded to accept saws with 1/2" and 5/8" diameter
mounting holes."

The hole saws listed at the Lee valley site don't say anything about
the mounting hole size, but based on the description of the 2
mandrels, it appears that they all have the same size mounting hole.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

Does that mean I could buy the Oops Arbor from Lee valley, but would
have to find hole saws with the correct size mounting holes from some
other source?

Only the ones with which you usually make your mistakes. *

I hadn't picked up on the different thread size requirement. *That
cuts way down on the cheapness and convenience quotients.

In any event, that double mounting arbor is interesting, but I'd
REALLY like to see something that would let you drill a smaller hole
after you drilled one too big. *Similar to the 2x4 extender attachment
on my circular saw.

R- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd REALLY like to see something that would let you drill a
smaller hole after you drilled one too big.

http://tinyurl.com/HoleReducer

On Oct 14, 11:24*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 14, 10:39*am, RicodJour wrote:





On Oct 14, 10:30*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Oct 14, 8:20*am, "Doug Brown" wrote:

Or our friends at Lee Valley have this:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

I don't use holes saw too often so I have a question about this line
from the website:

"...mandrel is threaded to accept saws with 1/2" and 5/8" diameter
mounting holes."

The hole saws listed at the Lee valley site don't say anything about
the mounting hole size, but based on the description of the 2
mandrels, it appears that they all have the same size mounting hole.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

Does that mean I could buy the Oops Arbor from Lee valley, but would
have to find hole saws with the correct size mounting holes from some
other source?

Only the ones with which you usually make your mistakes. *

I hadn't picked up on the different thread size requirement. *That
cuts way down on the cheapness and convenience quotients.

In any event, that double mounting arbor is interesting, but I'd
REALLY like to see something that would let you drill a smaller hole
after you drilled one too big. *Similar to the 2x4 extender attachment
on my circular saw.

R- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd REALLY like to see something that would let you drill a
smaller hole after you drilled one too big.

http://tinyurl.com/HoleReducer- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sorry...bad link...

http://tinyurl.com/HoleReducer2

On Oct 14, 11:27*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Oct 14, 10:39*am, RicodJour wrote:

I'd REALLY like to see something that would let you drill a
smaller hole after you drilled one too big.

http://tinyurl.com/HoleReducer2

Hmmm. I can see the cylindrical shape would fit inside the hole, but
wouldn't the stuff inside leak out when you drilled the smaller hole
through the can?

R

On Wed, 14 Oct 2009 06:20:45 -0600, "Doug Brown"
wrote Re Enlarge a hole in studs:


Or our friends at Lee Valley have this:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

That's pretty nice.
--
I filter all messages from google groups.

MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to pass
PVC pipes across. However I did not realize a 2" hole saw does not make a
hole large enough for a 2" pipe because the 2" is nominal and not outer
diameter.

Now I need to enlarge the hole by about 1/2". My hole saw is not deep
enough to cut a 2x, so previously I cut from both ends and made the cut.
Now that the middle is hollow how can I make a 2.5" hole from a 2" hole?

One solution I think that may work, is to find another piece of 2x and cut a
2" hole, and use the circular wood plug from the cut and insert that into
the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. May be there is a better
way?

MC


you figgered your own solution. use a plug from a 2" hole as a pilot on
your larger hole saw.

s

On Oct 14, 7:20*am, "Doug Brown" wrote:

snip

Or our friends at Lee Valley have this:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.....at=1,180,42316

That is one nifty tool. It's on my shopping list so I can get rid of
the box of plywood pieces that have accumulated from prior mistake
corrections. Thanks, Doug.

Joe

On Oct 14, 2:41*pm, Joe wrote:
On Oct 14, 7:20*am, "Doug Brown" wrote:

snip
Or our friends at Lee Valley have this:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

That is one nifty tool. It's on my shopping list so I can get rid of
the box of plywood pieces that have accumulated from prior mistake
corrections. Thanks, Doug.

Joe

Joe:

Read the description carefully.

"...mandrel is threaded to accept saws with 1/2" and 5/8" diameter
mounting holes."

You'll need hole saws with 2 different sized mounting holes to use the
Oops Arbor.

In other words, your "mistake size" hole saw will need a 1/2" mounting
hole while your "fixed it size" hole saw will need to be 3/8".

You'll get rid of the plywood pieces, but may have to add a bunch of
duplicate OD hole saws.

I'd stick with the plywood if it works for you.

wrote:
....
Many times you can put two hole saws on one regular arbor and do the
same thing.

That'd be my first thought having seen that but hadn't thought of it
before. Then at least if don't have right size(s) what you get will fit
the arbor you have...

Primary difficulty I'd foresee is whether arbor is long enough to stack
the two and still have sufficient thread length.

--

On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 22:19:47 -0400, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

I have a series of 2x6 studs that I have drilled two inches holes to pass
PVC pipes across. However I did not realize a 2" hole saw does not make a
hole large enough for a 2" pipe because the 2" is nominal and not outer
diameter.

Now I need to enlarge the hole by about 1/2". My hole saw is not deep
enough to cut a 2x, so previously I cut from both ends and made the cut.
Now that the middle is hollow how can I make a 2.5" hole from a 2" hole?

One solution I think that may work, is to find another piece of 2x and cut a
2" hole, and use the circular wood plug from the cut and insert that into
the 2" hole, and use that to make the 2.5" hole. May be there is a better
way?

MC



Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole
larger.

On Oct 15, 3:16*pm, Phisherman wrote:

Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole
larger.

Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important?
I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists
end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood.
Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/
end.

R

On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 14:22:11 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote:

On Oct 15, 3:16Â*pm, Phisherman wrote:

Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole
larger.

Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important?
I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists
end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood.
Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/
end.

R
And properly enlarged with a rotozip leaves no "rizers" to encourage
splitting either.

RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 15, 3:16 pm, Phisherman wrote:
Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole
larger.

Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important?
I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists
end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood.
Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/
end.

Well, there's roughing out and hacking...

_I_ think it isn't worth spending a lot of time on because it simply
isn't and a vertical non-loadbearing wet wall has so little bending
stress these imagined stress concentration points are not going to be
failure points.

A main, load-bearing beam some reason to care, this application, "not so
much". There are far better places to spend the amount of time MC was
talking about to fixup the problem. (Of course, if he had bothered to
measure the hole or test fit a piece after the first one, it would have
saved the whole problem from arising, but that's another story... )

--

On Oct 15, 7:44*pm, dpb wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 15, 3:16 pm, Phisherman wrote:
Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole
larger.

Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important?
I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists
end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood.
Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/
end.

Well, there's roughing out and hacking...

_I_ think it isn't worth spending a lot of time on because it simply
isn't and a vertical non-loadbearing wet wall has so little bending
stress these imagined stress concentration points are not going to be
failure points.

Agreed it is not critical in a non-load-bearing wall.

A main, load-bearing beam some reason to care, this application, "not so
much". *There are far better places to spend the amount of time MC was
talking about to fixup the problem. *(Of course, if he had bothered to
measure the hole or test fit a piece after the first one, it would have
saved the whole problem from arising, but that's another story... )

Most splits in wood start as shrinkage checking, and/or seasonal
changes in humidity, not from excess load. A hacked hole has jagged
edges that concentrate the stress.

Instill good habits. I would also venture that a hole saw in a
reasonable drill would take less time than using a reciprocating saw,
jigsaw or Rotozip.

R

Doug Brown posted for all of us...


"RicodJour" wrote in message
news:cd4e801d-b05e-485c-8fee-
This is the standard way of enlarging a hole. I use scrap 3/4"
plywood as it's less likely to create problems of depth, you can use
the ubiquitous 1 1/4" drywall screws to attach it, and the plywood
won't split with repeated use.

R


Or our friends at Lee Valley have this:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

Mads by Starrett I believe.

--
Tekkie Don't bother to thank me, I do this as a public service.

On Oct 15, 10:09*pm, Tekkie® wrote:

Or our friends at Lee Valley have this:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42316

Mads by Starrett I believe.

Yep, that was posted about #12 in this thread and commented on a
couple of times.

R