On Oct 15, 7:44*pm, dpb wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 15, 3:16 pm, Phisherman wrote:
Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole
larger.

Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important?
I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists
end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood.
Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/
end.

Well, there's roughing out and hacking...

_I_ think it isn't worth spending a lot of time on because it simply
isn't and a vertical non-loadbearing wet wall has so little bending
stress these imagined stress concentration points are not going to be
failure points.

Agreed it is not critical in a non-load-bearing wall.

A main, load-bearing beam some reason to care, this application, "not so
much". *There are far better places to spend the amount of time MC was
talking about to fixup the problem. *(Of course, if he had bothered to
measure the hole or test fit a piece after the first one, it would have
saved the whole problem from arising, but that's another story... )

Most splits in wood start as shrinkage checking, and/or seasonal
changes in humidity, not from excess load. A hacked hole has jagged
edges that concentrate the stress.

Instill good habits. I would also venture that a hole saw in a
reasonable drill would take less time than using a reciprocating saw,
jigsaw or Rotozip.

R