I want to replace a double casement over my sink with a 2 view slider.

I hear that casement openings can be tricky to measure, but mine looks
pretty straight forward.

The window is set back a little over an inch from the front of the
opening and looks to me like when I remove it, I'll have an opening
with four flat sides with some holes where the hardware is mounted.

From what I can see, it looks to me like I should simply measure from
side to side and top to bottom on the interior of the opening.

Am I missing anything? What should I be looking for?

It takes a week (from Tuesday to Tuesday) for my supplier to get a
window, so I guess I could take the existing window out and see what I
really have, then board it up for a week or so until the window comes
in. I know that would work, but I doubt the pros would ever do it that
way.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I want to replace a double casement over my sink with a 2 view slider.

I hear that casement openings can be tricky to measure, but mine looks
pretty straight forward.

The window is set back a little over an inch from the front of the
opening and looks to me like when I remove it, I'll have an opening
with four flat sides with some holes where the hardware is mounted.

From what I can see, it looks to me like I should simply measure from
side to side and top to bottom on the interior of the opening.

Am I missing anything? What should I be looking for?

It takes a week (from Tuesday to Tuesday) for my supplier to get a
window, so I guess I could take the existing window out and see what I
really have, then board it up for a week or so until the window comes
in. I know that would work, but I doubt the pros would ever do it that
way.

Any suggestions? Thanks!
Visit a HD or Lowes (Or both) there should be info there and even a
book to look at.

In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:



It takes a week (from Tuesday to Tuesday) for my supplier to get a
window, so I guess I could take the existing window out and see what I
really have, then board it up for a week or so until the window comes
in. I know that would work, but I doubt the pros would ever do it that
way.



You're correct. Assuming they weren't in their own home, the pros would
take it out for a week and *not* board up the opening.

On Sep 28, 7:57*am, LouB wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I want to replace a double casement over my sink with a 2 view slider.

I hear that casement openings can be tricky to measure, but mine looks
pretty straight forward.

The window is set back a little over an inch from the front of the
opening and looks to me like when I remove it, I'll have an opening
with four flat sides with some holes where the hardware is mounted.

From what I can see, it looks to me like I should simply measure from
side to side and top to bottom on the interior of the opening.

Am I missing anything? What should I be looking for?

It takes a week (from Tuesday to Tuesday) for my supplier to get a
window, so I guess I could take the existing window out and see what I
really have, then board it up for a week or so until the window comes
in. I know that would work, but I doubt the pros would ever do it that
way.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

Visit a HD or Lowes (Or both) *there should be info there and even a
book to look at.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I doubt a Home Depot or Lowes would be any help.

Even the window supplier that I am using suggested that perhaps I
should offer a contractor a small fee to measure the window "on his
way home or if he was in the neighborhood" to make sure I got the
measurements right.

The supplier knows me, since I measured for the 12 double hungs (6
different sizes) that I replaced last year and got them all right, so
I pretty sure I know what I'm doing. However, this talk of "casements
windows can be tricky" has me second guessing myself.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I want to replace a double casement over my sink with a 2 view slider.

I hear that casement openings can be tricky to measure, but mine looks
pretty straight forward.

The window is set back a little over an inch from the front of the
opening and looks to me like when I remove it, I'll have an opening
with four flat sides with some holes where the hardware is mounted.

From what I can see, it looks to me like I should simply measure from
side to side and top to bottom on the interior of the opening.

Am I missing anything? What should I be looking for?

It takes a week (from Tuesday to Tuesday) for my supplier to get a
window, so I guess I could take the existing window out and see what I
really have, then board it up for a week or so until the window comes
in. I know that would work, but I doubt the pros would ever do it that
way.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

Are you using "replacement" windows that sit inside the old frame, if it is
still solid, or are you using "new construction" windows that sit within the
house frame?

If you are using the first, you need the measurements of the clear opening
available within your existing window's outer frame after you remove all
removable items. Your manufacturer will tell you if you need to deduct
anything from the measurements that you end up with.

If you are using the second, you need to remove the window casing on the
inside and measure the outside of the old window frame, be sure that it
hasn't been shimmed up to accommodate the wall thickness with narrower
material than the actual frame is made with. Check outside to see if there
are any additional constraints such as bricks and other trim that can
complicate the installation.

On Sep 28, 1:13*pm, "EXT" wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I want to replace a double casement over my sink with a 2 view slider.

I hear that casement openings can be tricky to measure, but mine looks
pretty straight forward.

The window is set back a little over an inch from the front of the
opening and looks to me like when I remove it, I'll have an opening
with four flat sides with some holes where the hardware is mounted.

From what I can see, it looks to me like I should simply measure from
side to side and top to bottom on the interior of the opening.

Am I missing anything? What should I be looking for?

It takes a week (from Tuesday to Tuesday) for my supplier to get a
window, so I guess I could take the existing window out and see what I
really have, then board it up for a week or so until the window comes
in. I know that would work, but I doubt the pros would ever do it that
way.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

Are you using "replacement" windows that sit inside the old frame, if it is
still solid, or are you using "new construction" windows that sit within the
house frame?

If you are using the first, you need the measurements of the clear opening
available within your existing window's outer frame after you remove all
removable items. Your manufacturer will tell you if you need to deduct
anything from the measurements that you end up with.

If you are using the second, you need to remove the window casing on the
inside and measure the outside of the old window frame, be sure that it
hasn't been shimmed up to accommodate the wall thickness with narrower
material than the actual frame is made with. Check outside to see if there
are any additional constraints such as bricks and other trim that can
complicate the installation.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks...I am using replacement windows and I know that I "need the
measurements of the clear opening available within my existing
window's outer frame after I remove all removable items."

As I said in my most recent post, this is not my first time at this
rodeo, having measured for, and replaced, 12 double hung windows, of 6
different sizes over the past year.

The issue is that I keep hearing that what you see when you look at an
existing casement window - one that is not a replacement window - you
might not be seeing the actual rough opening. Part of the visible trim
and/or opening might actually be part of the window itself. On the
other hand, it might be as simple as measuring just like you would for
a double hung - side to side and up and down, in three different
lolcations.

What I'm specifically asking about is how do you tell the difference
between a simple "side to side/up and down" measurement of the exposed
opening and the more complicated "the whole frame is part of the
window" measurement.

Is there some way to tell by looking at the existing casement?

"DerbyDad03" wrote

Even the window supplier that I am using suggested that perhaps I
should offer a contractor a small fee to measure the window "on his
way home or if he was in the neighborhood" to make sure I got the
measurements right.

I pretty sure I know what I'm doing. However, this talk of "casements
windows can be tricky" has me second guessing myself.

EXT gave good advice here. There are several measurement points involved,
not just the obvious 'up down, side side'. Depth of fitting and what Mom
told me was 'rill depth' (I do not know if she used right term, am not a
professional window person).

Last time I did this was 1974 and I took the window out, frame and all,
covered opening with plywood, and Mom took me and the window to the store.
Back then, you didn't contract via the internet for a shipped one. I noted
one side had been shimmed with 1/4 inch soft pine, by the removal time
slightly compressed. Evidently a weather expansion/contraction element in
that case? We replicated it with the new one and had no problems in an area
with significant temp shifts from 110F to -5F at the extreme ends.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 28, 7:57 am, LouB wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I want to replace a double casement over my sink with a 2 view slider.
I hear that casement openings can be tricky to measure, but mine looks
pretty straight forward.
The window is set back a little over an inch from the front of the
opening and looks to me like when I remove it, I'll have an opening
with four flat sides with some holes where the hardware is mounted.
From what I can see, it looks to me like I should simply measure from
side to side and top to bottom on the interior of the opening.
Am I missing anything? What should I be looking for?
It takes a week (from Tuesday to Tuesday) for my supplier to get a
window, so I guess I could take the existing window out and see what I
really have, then board it up for a week or so until the window comes
in. I know that would work, but I doubt the pros would ever do it that
way.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
Visit a HD or Lowes (Or both) there should be info there and even a
book to look at.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I doubt a Home Depot or Lowes would be any help.

Even the window supplier that I am using suggested that perhaps I
should offer a contractor a small fee to measure the window "on his
way home or if he was in the neighborhood" to make sure I got the
measurements right.

The supplier knows me, since I measured for the 12 double hungs (6
different sizes) that I replaced last year and got them all right, so
I pretty sure I know what I'm doing. However, this talk of "casements
windows can be tricky" has me second guessing myself.

Lordy. Pull off the interior trim (you'll have to do this anyway) and
measure the rough opening stud to stud, and sill to header. THAT is the
measurement your window guy needs. Or are you trying to retrofit the
slider into the existing jambs or something crazy like that? May or may
not work- unlike vanilla double-hung windows, there is no standard way
of framing casement windows- sometimes all those edges where the window
makes a seal, are milled right into the casing. For over the sink where
you will be staring at it from 2 feet away every day, I think you will
be happier with an actual 'old work' replacement window, rather than a
kludged up insert. Not like a bedroom where curtain is usually closed,
and you only glance at it a few seconds a day.

--
aem sends...

"DerbyDad03" wrote
"EXT" wrote:

Are you using "replacement" windows that sit inside the old frame, if it
is
still solid, or are you using "new construction" windows that sit within
the
house frame?

Derby, this is *key*. EXT knows much more than I do. So, if anything
conflicts, go with his (grin, presume he just like most presume I am a 'he')

The issue is that I keep hearing that what you see when you look at an
existing casement window - one that is not a replacement window - you
might not be seeing the actual rough opening. Part of the visible trim
and/or opening might actually be part of the window itself. On the
other hand, it might be as simple as measuring just like you would for
a double hung - side to side and up and down, in three different
locations.

What I'm specifically asking about is how do you tell the difference
between a simple "side to side/up and down" measurement of the exposed
opening and the more complicated "the whole frame is part of the
window" measurement.

Is there some way to tell by looking at the existing casement?

Not as far as I know. BTW, I am not sure why 'replacement window' vs
existing casement window is an issue here because to me, they are the same
thing when it comes to this. Kinda self trained. Used to working long ago
on anything from 150 years old, to 20 years old. Bugged the guys at the
various local hardware places for knowledge which they freely gave once they
realized I was serious. (Back then, 'women' and especially child females
didnt do stuff like that).

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 28, 7:57 am, LouB wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I want to replace a double casement over my sink with a 2 view slider.
I hear that casement openings can be tricky to measure, but mine looks
pretty straight forward.
The window is set back a little over an inch from the front of the
opening and looks to me like when I remove it, I'll have an opening
with four flat sides with some holes where the hardware is mounted.
From what I can see, it looks to me like I should simply measure from
side to side and top to bottom on the interior of the opening.
Am I missing anything? What should I be looking for?
It takes a week (from Tuesday to Tuesday) for my supplier to get a
window, so I guess I could take the existing window out and see what I
really have, then board it up for a week or so until the window comes
in. I know that would work, but I doubt the pros would ever do it that
way.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
Visit a HD or Lowes (Or both) there should be info there and even a
book to look at.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I doubt a Home Depot or Lowes would be any help.

Even the window supplier that I am using suggested that perhaps I
should offer a contractor a small fee to measure the window "on his
way home or if he was in the neighborhood" to make sure I got the
measurements right.

The supplier knows me, since I measured for the 12 double hungs (6
different sizes) that I replaced last year and got them all right, so
I pretty sure I know what I'm doing. However, this talk of "casements
windows can be tricky" has me second guessing myself.

Lordy. Pull off the interior trim (you'll have to do this anyway) and
measure the rough opening stud to stud, and sill to header. THAT is the
measurement your window guy needs.

aem sends...

DITTO...BTDT.....

On Sep 28, 7:01*pm, "cshenk" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote

"EXT" wrote:
Are you using "replacement" windows that sit inside the old frame, if it
is
still solid, or are you using "new construction" windows that sit within
the
house frame?

Derby, this is *key*. *EXT knows much more than I do. *So, if anything
conflicts, go with his (grin, presume he just like most presume I am a 'he')

The issue is that I keep hearing that what you see when you look at an
existing casement window - one that is not a replacement window - you
might not be seeing the actual rough opening. Part of the visible trim
and/or opening might actually be part of the window itself. On the
other hand, it might be as simple as measuring just like you would for
a double hung - side to side and up and down, in three different
locations.
What I'm specifically asking about is how do you tell the difference
between a simple "side to side/up and down" measurement of the exposed
opening and the more complicated "the whole frame is part of the
window" measurement.
Is there some way to tell by looking at the existing casement?

Not as far as I know. *BTW, I am not sure why 'replacement window' vs
existing casement window is an issue here because to me, they are the same
thing when it comes to this. *Kinda self trained. *Used to working long ago
on anything from 150 years old, to 20 years old. *Bugged the guys at the
various local hardware places for knowledge which they freely gave once they
realized I was serious. *(Back then, 'women' and especially child females
didnt do stuff like that).

BTW, I am not sure why 'replacement window' vs existing casement
window is an issue here because to me, they are the same thing when it
comes to this.

I guess I'm not explaining this very well, so I'll try again.

When I replaced all the double hung windows in my house, the
measurements were pretty simple. The windows had wooden sashes that
rode up and down in aluminum tracks with springs inside plastic tubes
as "counterweights". It was easy to slip thin strips of material
between the tracks and the interior stops to determine the width
measurement of the rough opening without taking the window out. The
height was even easier since the top and bottom of the rough opening
were exposed when the windows were open. There was no question as to
what was part of the window and what was the rough opening.

Obviously a casement window is different. This a double wooden
casement with a center mullion. The unit appears to have been built
into the rough opening, probably when the house was built. That is
what I meant when I said it is not a replacement window.

When I face the window, I see the trim that is attached to the wall on
both sides and the top, with about an 1/8" reveal of the wood that
makes up the sides and top of the opening itself. i.e. the two side
pieces that face each other and the top piece that faces downward
towards the sill within the window opening itself.

What I don't know is this:

Is the wood that is inside the opening *part of the window itself* or
*part of the rough opening*? In other words, if I removed the trim
from the walls, would I find that the casement window is inside a
frame that has to be removed (resulting in a larger rough opening than
is currently visible) or do the 2 windows, the center mullion and the
hardware come out, leaving the side and top pieces of wood as the
rough opening that my vinyl slider will fit into? Unless the sill is
part of the frame also, it doesn't appear that the pieces in question
are part of a frame, but that's what I'm trying to find out.

If the casement doesn't have a frame that has to come out, then the
trim doesn't have to be removed/repainted/etc. The window is
sandwiched between cabinets and if I don't have to remove the trim or
disturb the wood inside the opening the installation will be as easy
as the double hungs were.

I hope that makes my question clearer.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
(snip)

I guess I'm not explaining this very well, so I'll try again.

When I replaced all the double hung windows in my house, the
measurements were pretty simple. The windows had wooden sashes that
rode up and down in aluminum tracks with springs inside plastic tubes
as "counterweights". It was easy to slip thin strips of material
between the tracks and the interior stops to determine the width
measurement of the rough opening without taking the window out. The
height was even easier since the top and bottom of the rough opening
were exposed when the windows were open. There was no question as to
what was part of the window and what was the rough opening.

Okay, THAT is why people are getting confused. That is NOT the rough
opening. That is the 'inside the jamb' dimensions. Rough opening is the
dimensions of the hole in the wall framing that the jamb fits into, stud
to stud, and sill to header. What you described is the dimensions for a
sash replacement kit, not a replacement window. I guess some vendors
actually sell a whole new thin-framed window to fit inside those
dimensions, but most people prefer to either just replace the sashes, or
replace the whole window, so as to not end up with visibly smaller windows.

Again, you may or may not be able to reuse the old jamb from the kitchen
casement windows- depends how it is designed, and how the jamb was
milled. If it is all milled out of one board on each side, you likely
would have a lot of chisel and router work to get it flat enough to
attach anything to. If it is a regular jamb with attached inner pieces,
you could peel those out. No way to tell without seeing it, and prying
at the joints with a sharp putty knife.



--
aem sends...

"aemeijers" wrote
DerbyDad03 wrote:

I guess I'm not explaining this very well, so I'll try again.

Hehe happens to us all!

When I replaced all the double hung windows in my house, the
measurements were pretty simple. The windows had wooden sashes that
rode up and down in aluminum tracks with springs inside plastic tubes
as "counterweights". It was easy to slip thin strips of material
between the tracks and the interior stops to determine the width
measurement of the rough opening without taking the window out. The
height was even easier since the top and bottom of the rough opening
were exposed when the windows were open. There was no question as to
what was part of the window and what was the rough opening.

Okay, THAT is why people are getting confused. That is NOT the rough
opening. That is the 'inside the jamb' dimensions. Rough opening is the
dimensions of the hole in the wall framing that the jamb fits into, stud
to stud, and sill to header. What you described is the dimensions for a
sash replacement kit, not a replacement window. I guess some vendors
actually sell a whole new thin-framed window to fit inside those
dimensions, but most people prefer to either just replace the sashes, or
replace the whole window, so as to not end up with visibly smaller
windows.

Again, you may or may not be able to reuse the old jamb from the kitchen
casement windows- depends how it is designed, and how the jamb was milled.
If it is all milled out of one board on each side, you likely would have a
lot of chisel and router work to get it flat enough to attach anything to.
If it is a regular jamb with attached inner pieces, you could peel those
out. No way to tell without seeing it, and prying at the joints with a
sharp putty knife.

Correct. Ya beat me to it.

Derby, you will at the least have to remove one top or bottom piece, and one
side piece of your outer window framing. Depending on how it's attached,
this might be pretty simple. Rubber mallet and a sharp wedge, tap gently to
loosen it without splitting (do this evenly all around so it comes off in
one piece). May need touchup paint when you put it back on, but might not
(grin).

We had to do this with the inner side of a bathroom window the renters
damaged. The inner side was framed with a matching 'rough hewn-look'
stained knotty pine (it's on all the walls). I did not want to try to match
the color or find pieces so we took that off ourselves and put it back up
when the main replacement was done (we had several wndows including a triple
picture frame that had to be replaced and a package deal made that one done
for virtually only the cost of the window). The outer frame had to come off
for measurements. Took me about 30 mins, 15 of which was the top piece
because it was difficult to angle the tools up there right.

Oh, for the wedge you want one sharply angled (very thin, see if you can
find one with a hardened rubberized covering over the tip). This will
protect the wood. One of my odd carpentry tools. Father in law had it and
passed it to us when I recognized it having used one as a kid. I have no
idea what the proper name for it is. Probably has a fancy name other than
'rubberized wedge'.

Speak of the devil! I tried a google and here it is close enough to mine.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_6943600...ls.html?tp=990

Don't skip the mallet or you may split the wood.

"DerbyDad03" wrote

I guess I'm not explaining this very well, so I'll try again.

Grin, tagged it there. Answer went in reply to aem.

On Sep 29, 2:38*am, aemeijers wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

(snip)



I guess I'm not explaining this very well, so I'll try again.

When I replaced all the double hung windows in my house, the
measurements were pretty simple. The windows had wooden sashes that
rode up and down in aluminum tracks with springs inside plastic tubes
as "counterweights". It was easy to slip thin strips of material
between the tracks and the interior stops to determine the width
measurement of the rough opening without taking the window out. The
height was even easier since the top and bottom of the rough opening
were exposed when the windows were open. There was no question as to
what was part of the window and what was the rough opening.

Okay, THAT is why people are getting confused. That is NOT the rough
opening. That is the 'inside the jamb' dimensions. Rough opening is the
dimensions of the hole in the wall framing that the jamb fits into, stud
to stud, and sill to header. What you described is the dimensions for a
sash replacement kit, not a replacement window. I guess some vendors
actually sell a whole new thin-framed window to fit inside those
dimensions, but most people prefer to either just replace the sashes, or
replace the whole window, so as to not end up with visibly smaller windows.

Again, you may or may not be able to reuse the old jamb from the kitchen
casement windows- depends how it is designed, and how the jamb was
milled. If it is all milled out of one board on each side, you likely
would have a lot of chisel and router work to get it flat enough to
attach anything to. If it is a regular jamb with attached inner pieces,
you could peel those out. No way to tell without seeing it, and prying
at the joints with a sharp putty knife.

--
aem sends...

Thanks aem, what you say make sense, for the most part.

However, I would like to comment on this statement:

"What you described is the dimensions for a sash replacement kit, not
a replacement window"

I hear what you are saying, but to some extent I disagree.

If I were able to remove all the parts of the casement window back to
the jambs (which would leave me with a 38 1/2" x 37 3/4") opening, I
could certainly buy a 2 view slider *replacement window* to fit into
the opening. That way I would not have to remove any trim or jamb.
Based on my measurements of the existing frames around each sash and
the frame around a 2-view slider, the glass area of the window will be
the same. (I am not going with a replacement casement because I know
that the center mullion is considerably wider than on wooden casements
or vinyl sliders.)

I guess it time to start pulling the trim pieces around the sashes
themselves to see how the window was installed.

Thanks again.

On Sep 29, 8:51*am, "cshenk" wrote:
"aemeijers" wrote

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I guess I'm not explaining this very well, so I'll try again.

Hehe happens to us all!





When I replaced all the double hung windows in my house, the
measurements were pretty simple. The windows had wooden sashes that
rode up and down in aluminum tracks with springs inside plastic tubes
as "counterweights". It was easy to slip thin strips of material
between the tracks and the interior stops to determine the width
measurement of the rough opening without taking the window out. The
height was even easier since the top and bottom of the rough opening
were exposed when the windows were open. There was no question as to
what was part of the window and what was the rough opening.

Okay, THAT is why people are getting confused. That is NOT the rough
opening. That is the 'inside the jamb' dimensions. Rough opening is the
dimensions of the hole in the wall framing that the jamb fits into, stud
to stud, and sill to header. What you described is the dimensions for a
sash replacement kit, not a replacement window. I guess some vendors
actually sell a whole new thin-framed window to fit inside those
dimensions, but most people prefer to either just replace the sashes, or
replace the whole window, so as to not end up with visibly smaller
windows.

Again, you may or may not be able to reuse the old jamb from the kitchen
casement windows- depends how it is designed, and how the jamb was milled.
If it is all milled out of one board on each side, you likely would have a
lot of chisel and router work to get it flat enough to attach anything to.
If it is a regular jamb with attached inner pieces, you could peel those
out. No way to tell without seeing it, and prying at the joints with a
sharp putty knife.

Correct. *Ya beat me to it.

Derby, you will at the least have to remove one top or bottom piece, and one
side piece of your outer window framing. *Depending on how it's attached,
this might be pretty simple. *Rubber mallet and a sharp wedge, tap gently to
loosen it without splitting (do this evenly all around so it comes off in
one piece). *May need touchup paint when you put it back on, but might not
(grin).

We had to do this with the inner side of a bathroom window the renters
damaged. *The inner side was framed with a matching 'rough hewn-look'
stained knotty pine (it's on all the walls). *I did not want to try to match
the color or find pieces so we took that off ourselves and put it back up
when the main replacement was done (we had several wndows including a triple
picture frame that had to be replaced and a package deal made that one done
for virtually only the cost of the window). *The outer frame had to come off
for measurements. *Took me about 30 mins, 15 of which was the top piece
because it was difficult to angle the tools up there right.

Oh, for the wedge you want one sharply angled (very thin, see if you can
find one with a hardened rubberized covering over the tip). *This will
protect the wood. *One of my odd carpentry tools. *Father in law had it and
passed it to us when I recognized it having used one as a kid. *I have no
idea what the proper name for it is. *Probably has a fancy name other than
'rubberized wedge'.

Speak of the devil! *I tried a google and here it is close enough to mine.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_6943600...anel-Tools.htm...

Don't skip the mallet or you may split the wood.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Derby, you will at the least have to remove one top or bottom
piece, and one side piece of your outer window framing.

Maybe...maybe not.

I guess it depends on what you are calling the "outer window framing".

There is the trim on the wall, then the jamb pieces (at a right angle
to the trim), then a strip of molding that acts as the "inside stop"
for each sash. This molding is on both sides and across the top.

I think that if I remove that strip of molding, I'll be able to see
how the sash and jamb interact. If the jamb is flat behind both the
trim and the sashes, then that is what I can call the "opening" and
use those dimensions for the slider. Those would be same dimensions
that I have already measured. If I see anything other than a flat
jamb, then I'll need to pull the trim off the wall and dig deeper.

Thanks for the help.

"DerbyDad03" wrote
"cshenk" wrote:

Derby, you will at the least have to remove one top or bottom
piece, and one side piece of your outer window framing.

Maybe...maybe not.

I guess it depends on what you are calling the "outer window framing".

Terminology can be tricky. I don't have any professional training so
sometimes i find the word i used, isnt the right one.

There is the trim on the wall, then the jamb pieces (at a right angle
to the trim), then a strip of molding that acts as the "inside stop"
for each sash. This molding is on both sides and across the top.

The trim is what has to come off.

I think that if I remove that strip of molding, I'll be able to see
how the sash and jamb interact. If the jamb is flat behind both the
trim and the sashes, then that is what I can call the "opening" and

Yup! You just need to check behind that.

Thanks for the help.

Welcome! Hey, I am asking for some too in another thread. My flowering
pear tree fell on my house ;-) Was not a wise choice of tree type to get
and it split in half last night (so I took the day off to deal with it).
Tree now professionally removed including stump. Now looking at ideas for a
suitable tree. Grin, I see there are replies and probably didnt give enough
info!