On Sep 29, 8:51*am, "cshenk" wrote:
"aemeijers" wrote
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I guess I'm not explaining this very well, so I'll try again.
Hehe happens to us all!
When I replaced all the double hung windows in my house, the
measurements were pretty simple. The windows had wooden sashes that
rode up and down in aluminum tracks with springs inside plastic tubes
as "counterweights". It was easy to slip thin strips of material
between the tracks and the interior stops to determine the width
measurement of the rough opening without taking the window out. The
height was even easier since the top and bottom of the rough opening
were exposed when the windows were open. There was no question as to
what was part of the window and what was the rough opening.
Okay, THAT is why people are getting confused. That is NOT the rough
opening. That is the 'inside the jamb' dimensions. Rough opening is the
dimensions of the hole in the wall framing that the jamb fits into, stud
to stud, and sill to header. What you described is the dimensions for a
sash replacement kit, not a replacement window. I guess some vendors
actually sell a whole new thin-framed window to fit inside those
dimensions, but most people prefer to either just replace the sashes, or
replace the whole window, so as to not end up with visibly smaller
windows.
Again, you may or may not be able to reuse the old jamb from the kitchen
casement windows- depends how it is designed, and how the jamb was milled.
If it is all milled out of one board on each side, you likely would have a
lot of chisel and router work to get it flat enough to attach anything to.
If it is a regular jamb with attached inner pieces, you could peel those
out. No way to tell without seeing it, and prying at the joints with a
sharp putty knife.
Correct. *Ya beat me to it.
Derby, you will at the least have to remove one top or bottom piece, and one
side piece of your outer window framing. *Depending on how it's attached,
this might be pretty simple. *Rubber mallet and a sharp wedge, tap gently to
loosen it without splitting (do this evenly all around so it comes off in
one piece). *May need touchup paint when you put it back on, but might not
(grin).
We had to do this with the inner side of a bathroom window the renters
damaged. *The inner side was framed with a matching 'rough hewn-look'
stained knotty pine (it's on all the walls). *I did not want to try to match
the color or find pieces so we took that off ourselves and put it back up
when the main replacement was done (we had several wndows including a triple
picture frame that had to be replaced and a package deal made that one done
for virtually only the cost of the window). *The outer frame had to come off
for measurements. *Took me about 30 mins, 15 of which was the top piece
because it was difficult to angle the tools up there right.
Oh, for the wedge you want one sharply angled (very thin, see if you can
find one with a hardened rubberized covering over the tip). *This will
protect the wood. *One of my odd carpentry tools. *Father in law had it and
passed it to us when I recognized it having used one as a kid. *I have no
idea what the proper name for it is. *Probably has a fancy name other than
'rubberized wedge'.
Speak of the devil! *I tried a google and here it is close enough to mine.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_6943600...anel-Tools.htm...
Don't skip the mallet or you may split the wood.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Derby, you will at the least have to remove one top or bottom
piece, and one side piece of your outer window framing.
Maybe...maybe not.
I guess it depends on what you are calling the "outer window framing".
There is the trim on the wall, then the jamb pieces (at a right angle
to the trim), then a strip of molding that acts as the "inside stop"
for each sash. This molding is on both sides and across the top.
I think that if I remove that strip of molding, I'll be able to see
how the sash and jamb interact. If the jamb is flat behind both the
trim and the sashes, then that is what I can call the "opening" and
use those dimensions for the slider. Those would be same dimensions
that I have already measured. If I see anything other than a flat
jamb, then I'll need to pull the trim off the wall and dig deeper.
Thanks for the help.