On Dec 29, 2:01*am, JustWondering
wrote:
On Wed, 24 Dec 2008, Jim Elbrecht wrote:

I also saw this one in a sears flyer last week
battery operated hammer- $100
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00911818000P

Would like to know if anybody has tried one of these yet? *Would be a nice
toy to have around beings that they don't create a lot of vibration and
would be great to use in a pinch on attaching things to plaster.

I saw it in the store, no demo out but it looks like light duty.

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Dec 25, 7:10 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message

...
On Dec 24, 5:25 am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over
nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail
wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is
awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the
nails
as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I
cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC
MC-
I was quite handy with a hammer (when younger & much more
practiced). As I have gotten older one trick that works for me is a
mill faced hammer. The milled face keeps hammer from slipping off the
nail head & reduces the tendency to bend the nails.
But in your situation, since this is going to be a "one off" project,
I would suggest a palm nailer.
I bought my Senco used on ebay but I'm sure Harbor Freight has a cheap
knock off.
You could also use a Senco 16 gage 7/16" crown stapler w/ 2"
staples. And staple the crap out of the plywood gussets. Based on
some strength & stiffness tests I did .......... I figured two
staples have "about" the same capacity as one 10d nail.
Another nice thing about staples is that the "trauma" to the wood is a
lot less than that for large diameter nails.
cheers
Bob

Bob:

Thanks,

The problem is I don't have a compressor to drive the palm nailer anyways,
so either way I think I need to spend some money on something to make the
job easier. I have three areas in the attic to use this on, so it will
help
me greatly if this is a time and elbow grease saver. I deliberately waited
till winter time to do this project because summer time in Miami up in the
attic at 105 degrees in an awkward position is not fun, further more I
recently strained my back so that also made it harder for me to have the
maximum effect on hammering.

Looking further ahead on my fasteners need in my never ending remodeling
job, I am going to subcontract the sheet rock and flooring, so I don't
need
to worry about that myself. I will need to repair some 1/2" thick wood
soffit ceiling panels "Ply-Bead" that I need to either nail or staple, I
have 7 rooms of baseboards and interior door trims which I will do myself
(finish nailers), and quite a few furring strips and panels I need to
attach
to concrete walls (to attach cabinets and shelving and industrial
lighting),
so perhaps if I look ahead if might pay for me to invest in a good
compressor and some air tools. I would rather get fewer good quality tools
then a bunch of one off items.

Is there an air tool that would do finish nailing, structural nailing, and
also punch wood into concrete?

MC- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The New Craftman nailer tool is a Battery operated nailer, very small,
But a cheap Remington gun nail driver is quicker and a heavy duty
tool, and you will get a bang out of work. The Craftsman will only
give you a buzz.

I heard that the remington gun nailer is very loud (almost like a gun shot)
is that true?

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"MiamiCuse" wrote:

I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws
over nails.

Screws have their good points- but remember that their shear strength
is the weak spot.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail
wood gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle
is awkward. I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and
messing up the nails as I hammer them in. I don't think this is
productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being
bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I
cannot use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

I haven't used one- but I have been thinking about picking one up for
a tight spot like you've got there-
Air palm hammer- $30
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93496


Yeah, I just got one of these - swell little device.

Sumbitch will drive a railroad spike into a steel I-beam!

It's got a itty-bitty piston inside that uses 90psi of air-pressure to throw
a slammer gizmo about 1/4" But it does this about a thousand times a minute
and in less time than it takes to swing a hammer the nail is driven home (or
bent into a pretzel and firmly imbedded in the work where it adds a quaint
patina to the project).

Mine came with several "bits." There's the regular bit of course, then one
with a magnet to hold the nail, another for finishing nails (it's smaller in
diameter), and one that just knocks without any pretense of holding a nail.
I don't know what you'd use the last one for - maybe scootching a board into
position?

MiamiCuse wrote:

I heard that the remington gun nailer is very loud (almost like a gun
shot) is that true?

They *are* gun shots. A 22 cartridge. How loud depends on the load...more
powder = more noise. It also = more driving force and therin lies the
problem...selecting the correct load for the work at hand. Too low and the
nail won't penetrate fully; too high and you may well wind up with the nail
driven completely through a board. One can't use the same load to attach a
piece of soft wood to concrete block that one would use to attach it to
concrete. Concrete varies in hardness too. Sometimes from spot to spot.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 15:31:04 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

MiamiCuse wrote:

I heard that the remington gun nailer is very loud (almost like a gun
shot) is that true?

My guess is about like a fire cracker or a bull whip being cracked.
Use a good set of ear muff protection and safety glasses.


They *are* gun shots. A 22 cartridge. How loud depends on the load...more
powder = more noise. It also = more driving force and therin lies the
problem...selecting the correct load for the work at hand. Too low and the
nail won't penetrate fully; too high and you may well wind up with the nail
driven completely through a board. One can't use the same load to attach a
piece of soft wood to concrete block that one would use to attach it to
concrete. Concrete varies in hardness too. Sometimes from spot to spot.

Fastening to steel is very loud (imo).

video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MD-yAjSPgwU

hold the nail with your thumb on the nail head... think
"carefull,,,carefull"..swing hammer.. DOH!!!!

----------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
"MiamiCuse" wrote:


-snip-
The problem is I don't have a compressor to drive the palm nailer anyways,
so either way I think I need to spend some money on something to make the
-snip-

I haven't hired a pro for anything but autowork in 30 years. Yet
it was just a couple years ago that I bought my [first] compressor.
Shaking my head now when I think of how much I could have used it over
the years.

I have a cheap Harbor freight job- 10gallons, rated 2HP- about $120 on
sale. It is a little slow for grinding, die cutting and
sandblasting. But I've nailed, painted, blown things clean, etc to my
hearts content.

Is there an air tool that would do finish nailing, structural nailing, and
also punch wood into concrete?

For nailers I have a Porter Cable FR350 framer that drives 3 1/2" full
headed nails; a Bostitch finish nailer that drives 1" to 2" finish
nails; and a couple $10 brad nailers and staplers from Harbor Freight.

Driving finish nails and not having to go back and set them is a real
pleasure. The brad nailers are pretty handy, too. I don't do a
lot of framing but if I did I can see where the framer would be a big
timesaver. For me it just saves my elbow joints.

For attaching framing lumber to concrete I like Tapcons. There is a
T-nailer that drives hardened nails, but I've never seen one at work.

Jim

Jim thanks.

After browsing around the internet trying to get educated...I came across
this product.

http://www.senco.com/pdf/spec_sheets/framepro651_ss.pdf

says it will do framing, trusses, decks, and drive into concrete. So except
for finish nailing, it will serve all my needs from framing, to reinforcing
existing studs, to attic truss and framing repair, to attaching furring
strips to concrete walls...I think.

then all I need is a finish nailer for baseboards and trim later.

Thoughts?

MC

MiamiCuse wrote:

After browsing around the internet trying to get educated...I came
across this product.

http://www.senco.com/pdf/spec_sheets/framepro651_ss.pdf

says it will do framing, trusses, decks, and drive into concrete. So
except for finish nailing, it will serve all my needs from framing,
to reinforcing existing studs, to attic truss and framing repair, to
attaching furring strips to concrete walls...I think.

then all I need is a finish nailer for baseboards and trim later.

Thoughts?

1. You've got to use special (clipped head) nails. I'm not sure you can zip
down to HD and pick up a pack.
2. Framing nailers are the 12-guage shotguns of the nailer world. They are
POWERFUL devices and require eye and ear protection, a STRONG right arm
(they're heavy), and a bulletproof vest (groin protection encouraged).
3. For baseboards and trim you'll want a BRAD nailer. It'll shoot up to a 2"
brad easily. I got one for $20 from Harbor Freight and couldn't be more
pleased.

One difference between a framing nailer and a plam nailer is this: The
framing nailer goes "POW!" and with the release of energy equivalent to
1/8th of a stick of dynamite throws a 3" piece of steel into a hunk of
lumber. A palm nailer goes tappity-tap-tap-tap (like a hammer) until the
same result is achieved.

For handyman stuff around the house, I'd start with a palm nailer.

On Dec 29, 8:51*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:

snip

http://www.senco.com/pdf/spec_sheets/framepro651_ss.pdf

says it will do framing, trusses, decks, and drive into concrete. *So except
for finish nailing, it will serve all my needs from framing, to reinforcing
existing studs, to attic truss and framing repair, to attaching furring
strips to concrete walls...I think.

then all I need is a finish nailer for baseboards and trim later.

Thoughts?

MC

Good tool. I've used a Senco 365 framer for years...indispensible.
Before you buy a clipped head tool though, check with your building
code people. Some high wind communities do not allow them. Pros like
the clipped heads because you don't run out of 'bullets' as often.
Full head nails naturally are a bit better at holding things together,
and for the typical DIYer, reloading is seldom an issue.
Senco nails are a top grade product. With the variety they have
available you can spend more than you think stocking the precise
fastener you prefer for a project. Remember not to use the nailer to
draw pieces together. Clamp first, then nail. HTH.

Joe

"MiamiCuse" wrote:

-snip-
http://www.senco.com/pdf/spec_sheets/framepro651_ss.pdf

says it will do framing, trusses, decks, and drive into concrete. So except
for finish nailing, it will serve all my needs from framing, to reinforcing
existing studs, to attic truss and framing repair, to attaching furring
strips to concrete walls...I think.

then all I need is a finish nailer for baseboards and trim later.

Thoughts?

Senco is a good name--- but I'd be sure I don't always have to go to
the internet for nails. I didn't even know they made anything but the
gas nailers. Home Depot carries those around here. My brother in law
has one and it is the only place that sells the nails locally-- and
they never have the size he wants.

Second Joe's comment to be sure your local codes allow snipped heads.

And second Heybub's that framing nailers are the "12 ga shotgun"--
they are heavy, loud and kick like heck.

I think I'd also check to be sure it will nail fir strips to concrete
walls. Cool if it does- but they don't seem to bragging much on it
in the manual.

Jim

"MiamiCuse" wrote in
:


"ransley" wrote in message
..
. On Dec 25, 7:10 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message


... On Dec 24, 5:25 am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws
over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to
nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is
awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the
nails
as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being
bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I
cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them
using a power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC
MC-
I was quite handy with a hammer (when younger & much more
practiced). As I have gotten older one trick that works for me is a
mill faced hammer. The milled face keeps hammer from slipping off
the nail head & reduces the tendency to bend the nails.
But in your situation, since this is going to be a "one off"
project, I would suggest a palm nailer.
I bought my Senco used on ebay but I'm sure Harbor Freight has a
cheap knock off.
You could also use a Senco 16 gage 7/16" crown stapler w/ 2"
staples. And staple the crap out of the plywood gussets. Based on
some strength & stiffness tests I did .......... I figured two
staples have "about" the same capacity as one 10d nail.
Another nice thing about staples is that the "trauma" to the wood is
a lot less than that for large diameter nails.
cheers
Bob

Bob:

Thanks,

The problem is I don't have a compressor to drive the palm nailer
anyways, so either way I think I need to spend some money on
something to make the job easier. I have three areas in the attic to
use this on, so it will help
me greatly if this is a time and elbow grease saver. I deliberately
waited till winter time to do this project because summer time in
Miami up in the attic at 105 degrees in an awkward position is not
fun, further more I recently strained my back so that also made it
harder for me to have the maximum effect on hammering.

Looking further ahead on my fasteners need in my never ending
remodeling job, I am going to subcontract the sheet rock and
flooring, so I don't need
to worry about that myself. I will need to repair some 1/2" thick
wood soffit ceiling panels "Ply-Bead" that I need to either nail or
staple, I have 7 rooms of baseboards and interior door trims which I
will do myself (finish nailers), and quite a few furring strips and
panels I need to attach
to concrete walls (to attach cabinets and shelving and industrial
lighting),
so perhaps if I look ahead if might pay for me to invest in a good
compressor and some air tools. I would rather get fewer good quality
tools then a bunch of one off items.

Is there an air tool that would do finish nailing, structural
nailing, and also punch wood into concrete?

MC- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The New Craftman nailer tool is a Battery operated nailer, very small,
But a cheap Remington gun nail driver is quicker and a heavy duty
tool, and you will get a bang out of work. The Craftsman will only
give you a buzz.

I heard that the remington gun nailer is very loud (almost like a gun
shot) is that true?



Yep. The "loads" are .22 cal shells.