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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC


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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

MiamiCuse wrote:
I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC



You might consider using lag bolts to secure the items. They can be
tightened with a wrench since they have a hex head or square head, and
that allows tightening in confined spaces.
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"MiamiCuse" wrote:

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?


Yes, practice.

Jon


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"MiamiCuse" wrote:

I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.


Screws have their good points- but remember that their shear strength
is the weak spot.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.


I haven't used one- but I have been thinking about picking one up for
a tight spot like you've got there-
Air palm hammer- $30
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93496

I also saw this one in a sears flyer last week
battery operated hammer- $100
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00911818000P

The sears tool might work- but I think I'd spend $30 on a tool and
$100 on a compressor before I blew $100 on something that might just
get used once.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.


The right-angle attachment might make getting a good hold on the
screw. And I doubt you'd be able to get screws with enough shear
strength for your purpose. [especially if you are in Miami where
shear strength in attic framing is all important]

Jim
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On Dec 24, 7:25*am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. *The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. *I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? *I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC


Nail guns that use a 22 explosive shell drive big nails


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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

On Wed, 24 Dec 2008 06:08:27 -0800 (PST), ransley
wrote:
-snip-
Nail guns that use a 22 explosive shell drive big nails


But will they fit in a space that doesn't allow you much hammer
swinging room?

Jim
[my pneumatic gun will drive a full headed 3 1/2 inch nail but I
wouldn't try to 'touch up' attic framing with it]
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"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails

as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I

cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.


1. So long as fasteners hold securely, in hidden locations it
does not matter if they are bent or damaged by hammering.
2. Reconsider what type of fastener you need. You may
find screws (set in predrilled holes) or staples are functionally
OK in this location -- perhaps even just glue, if appropriately
braced/clamped while it sets.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)


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MiamiCuse wrote:

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being
bent?


1. The force being applied by the hammer to the nail needs to be parallel to
the nail.

2. Hit them square & centered on the nail head

3. Use a hammer with a waffle pattern on the hammer head

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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

On Dec 24, 10:25*am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. *The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. *I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? *I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC


Try using a few 'steel' nails in the 'awkward' spots. They don't bend
so easily!
Also sometimes you can use the flat 'side' of the hammer head; takes
longer (more blows) but avoids changing over tools.
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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

MiamiCuse wrote:
I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC


You might want to look at the various framing ties and brackets made by
Simpson supplemented with predrilled blocking or whatever is required
and use lag bolts (*not* drywall screws) and a small ratchet to allow
you to work in a confined space.

http://www.strongtie.com/


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On Dec 24, 9:13*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Wed, 24 Dec 2008 06:08:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

-snip-

Nail guns that use a 22 explosive shell drive big nails


But will they fit in a space that doesn't allow you much hammer
swinging room?

Jim
[my pneumatic gun will drive a full headed 3 1/2 inch nail but I
wouldn't try to 'touch up' attic framing with it]


There are a few models, one is like a large pistol you pull a trigger,
so it fits in tight places and works at angles when there is no room
to swing a hammer.
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On Dec 24, 5:25*am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. *The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. *I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? *I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC


MC-

I was quite handy with a hammer (when younger & much more
practiced). As I have gotten older one trick that works for me is a
mill faced hammer. The milled face keeps hammer from slipping off the
nail head & reduces the tendency to bend the nails.

But in your situation, since this is going to be a "one off" project,
I would suggest a palm nailer.
I bought my Senco used on ebay but I'm sure Harbor Freight has a cheap
knock off.

You could also use a Senco 16 gage 7/16" crown stapler w/ 2"
staples. And staple the crap out of the plywood gussets. Based on
some strength & stiffness tests I did .......... I figured two
staples have "about" the same capacity as one 10d nail.

Another nice thing about staples is that the "trauma" to the wood is a
lot less than that for large diameter nails.

cheers
Bob


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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

MiamiCuse wrote:

I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?



Rub the hammer head's striking surface on concrete every once in a while
to replace the "polished" surface with slight roughness. (That's what I
was taught by a carpenter, about 50 years ago.)

Or, get a hammer with a "waffle marked" striking surface.

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.



or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC




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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
"MiamiCuse" wrote:

I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.


Screws have their good points- but remember that their shear strength
is the weak spot.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.


I haven't used one- but I have been thinking about picking one up for
a tight spot like you've got there-
Air palm hammer- $30
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93496


I bought one of those when it was on sale, and so far it works great. I still
bent a few roofing nails putting up concrete backerboard, but it sure made the
job easy. Just another reason to have a good compressor.


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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

On 2008-12-24, BobK207 wrote:

You could also use a Senco 16 gage 7/16" crown stapler w/ 2"
staples. And staple the crap out of the plywood gussets. Based on
some strength & stiffness tests I did .......... I figured two
staples have "about" the same capacity as one 10d nail.


Hi Bob,

I've always wondered about staples, does their shear strength differ
in the two direction, parallel to the crown and perpendicular to the
crown?

Thanks, Wayne


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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

Since this is a mending task, the Simpson connectors will spread the
force over a wider area and typically connect faces rather than edges.
They can also be "formed" to fit slightly different angles than they
start with.
The short, fat nails that are used with them are plenty strong. I have
used both bright and galvanized versions. A palm nailer is the tool of
choice for driving these short nails.
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On Dec 24, 7:25*am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. *The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. *I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? *I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC


Time for you to get an Li Ion impact driver and find out how much hard
work you can avoid. Makita (my favorite), Bosch, Milwaukee and DeWalt
and many other manufacturers have them in up to 18V. What makes them
so useful is the very compact size. You should definitely go for Torx
or star drive screws or square drive if your sources for Torx are
limited. If your budget is modest, check out Harbor Frieght, of
course. By the time you have had your impact driver for a while, your
hammer will be used mostly for breaking rocks or smashing beer cans
G. If you need to build or repair a deck, the ID is the way to go.
Even the big hairy construction screws seem to just melt into the
wood. It is real easy to drive the screws too deep, so some practice
is advised at first. And although screws do tend to pull wood pieces
together well. sometimes it helps to pop a clamp on the work until it
is well placed. Bottom line, the ID is exactly the tool you need for
your project.

Joe

Joe
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On Wed, 24 Dec 2008 08:25:21 -0500, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC


Drilling a pilot hole will make hammering less frustrating. Even the
pros sometimes hit a knot, bend a nail, miss the head, etc. Not done
often but you can "tune up" a hammer a little: flatten the face,
secure the head, repair the grip, etc. There are times a clamp can be
used (instead of a hammer) to drive a nail home. Another
alternative is to use a 90-degree chuck to drive screws in close
places. Consider square head deck screws.
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On Dec 24, 7:25*am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. *The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as
I hammer them in. *I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? *I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

M


If you like new tools, yesterday at Sears I saw a new Craftsman tool
that hammers, its about 12" x 2 wide and round.
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On Wed, 24 Dec 2008 08:25:21 -0500, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

IN addition to lag bolts, there are lag screws.


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Jeff Wisnia wrote:


Rub the hammer head's striking surface on concrete every once in a
while to replace the "polished" surface with slight roughness.
(That's what I was taught by a carpenter, about 50 years ago.)


That is the best simple idea I've heard in quite some time. Thanks.


Or, get a hammer with a "waffle marked" striking surface.


I just bought a couple of new hammers ($2.99 each at HF) with heads so
smooth you could comb your mustache by using them as mirrors.

I'm gonna take my Dremel and carve a waffle pattern on the faces.


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In article ,
"HeyBub" wrote:

Jeff Wisnia wrote:


Rub the hammer head's striking surface on concrete every once in a
while to replace the "polished" surface with slight roughness.
(That's what I was taught by a carpenter, about 50 years ago.)


That is the best simple idea I've heard in quite some time. Thanks.


Or, get a hammer with a "waffle marked" striking surface.


I just bought a couple of new hammers ($2.99 each at HF) with heads so
smooth you could comb your mustache by using them as mirrors.

I'm gonna take my Dremel and carve a waffle pattern on the faces.


Instead of a waffle pattern, just carve the image of that ex who screwed
you over. Then you can torture her in effigy every time you drive a nail.
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At 2.99 each, you're not ruining much. If I caught you grinding
the face of one of my hammers, you might not survive. You will
destroy the case hardening and make a good club out of them.

--
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"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Jeff Wisnia wrote:


Rub the hammer head's striking surface on concrete every once
in a
while to replace the "polished" surface with slight roughness.
(That's what I was taught by a carpenter, about 50 years ago.)


That is the best simple idea I've heard in quite some time.
Thanks.


Or, get a hammer with a "waffle marked" striking surface.


I just bought a couple of new hammers ($2.99 each at HF) with
heads so smooth you could comb your mustache by using them as
mirrors.

I'm gonna take my Dremel and carve a waffle pattern on the
faces.



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DanG wrote:
At 2.99 each, you're not ruining much. If I caught you grinding
the face of one of my hammers, you might not survive. You will
destroy the case hardening and make a good club out of them.


They were regularly $3.99, but on sale. Does that make a difference?


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On Dec 24, 9:43*am, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2008-12-24, BobK207 wrote:

You could also use a Senco 16 gage 7/16" crown stapler w/ 2"
staples. * And staple the crap out of the plywood gussets. *Based on
some strength & stiffness tests I did .......... * I figured two
staples have "about" the same capacity as one 10d nail.


Hi Bob,

I've always wondered about staples, does their shear strength differ
in the two direction, parallel to the crown and perpendicular to the
crown?

Thanks, Wayne


The tests I did were with plywood (1/2 - 3/4) stapled to a 2x4
flatwise as the "receiving" member.

The staples were Senco 16 gage 7/16" crown fired from an M2 stapler.

Samples made with clusters of 5 staples were tested & yielded about
250 lbs per staple peak load.
Based on load vs deflection (deflections at peak load were quite
large) I chose to use 50bs, where deflection was well below 1/16" as
a "design load"

For long staples (2") that resulted in 1 1/4" or more staple
engagement, fastener withdrawal did not occur.
The staples remained in the receiving member and "mushed over / pulled
through" the plywood

For shorter staples, that resulted in less than 1" staple engage,
staple withdrawal occurred and peak loads were lower.

Staple orientation seemed to have an effect on deflection at peak
strength but not peak strength.

The reason I like staples is that they don't damage the receiving
member as much as larger nails and (imo) they can approach the
behavior of factory installed truss plates better than nailed
connections.

People tend to focus on strength of a connection but timber
connections have both strength and stiffness characteristics and
depending on the situation, one can be more important than the other.

cheers
Bob


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"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
DanG wrote:
At 2.99 each, you're not ruining much. If I caught you grinding
the face of one of my hammers, you might not survive. You will
destroy the case hardening and make a good club out of them.


They were regularly $3.99, but on sale. Does that make a difference?


Yes, you wasted one less dollar.

Unless you are buying a tool for a one time throw away thing, it does not
pay to save a couple of dollars buying substandard tools.

Those $ 4.00 hammers may be ok to drive in a couple of small nails for
hanging pictures and such, but to drive a real nail to anchor a couple of
2x4s you need a good hammer.


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Ralph Mowery wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
DanG wrote:
At 2.99 each, you're not ruining much. If I caught you grinding
the face of one of my hammers, you might not survive. You will
destroy the case hardening and make a good club out of them.


They were regularly $3.99, but on sale. Does that make a difference?


Yes, you wasted one less dollar.

Unless you are buying a tool for a one time throw away thing, it does
not pay to save a couple of dollars buying substandard tools.

Those $ 4.00 hammers may be ok to drive in a couple of small nails for
hanging pictures and such, but to drive a real nail to anchor a
couple of 2x4s you need a good hammer.


But I use nails made in China, so it averages out.

The trick is to sharpen the nails with a grinder before driving them. Cheap
grinder is okay.


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"MiamiCuse" wrote in
:

I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over
nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail
wood gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is
awkward. I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing
up the nails as I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being
bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I
cannot use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using
a power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC



Wait till you try box nails someday :-)
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"BobK207" wrote in message
...
On Dec 24, 5:25 am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over
nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails
as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC


MC-


I was quite handy with a hammer (when younger & much more
practiced). As I have gotten older one trick that works for me is a
mill faced hammer. The milled face keeps hammer from slipping off the
nail head & reduces the tendency to bend the nails.


But in your situation, since this is going to be a "one off" project,
I would suggest a palm nailer.
I bought my Senco used on ebay but I'm sure Harbor Freight has a cheap
knock off.


You could also use a Senco 16 gage 7/16" crown stapler w/ 2"
staples. And staple the crap out of the plywood gussets. Based on
some strength & stiffness tests I did .......... I figured two
staples have "about" the same capacity as one 10d nail.


Another nice thing about staples is that the "trauma" to the wood is a
lot less than that for large diameter nails.


cheers
Bob


Bob:

Thanks,

The problem is I don't have a compressor to drive the palm nailer anyways,
so either way I think I need to spend some money on something to make the
job easier. I have three areas in the attic to use this on, so it will help
me greatly if this is a time and elbow grease saver. I deliberately waited
till winter time to do this project because summer time in Miami up in the
attic at 105 degrees in an awkward position is not fun, further more I
recently strained my back so that also made it harder for me to have the
maximum effect on hammering.

Looking further ahead on my fasteners need in my never ending remodeling
job, I am going to subcontract the sheet rock and flooring, so I don't need
to worry about that myself. I will need to repair some 1/2" thick wood
soffit ceiling panels "Ply-Bead" that I need to either nail or staple, I
have 7 rooms of baseboards and interior door trims which I will do myself
(finish nailers), and quite a few furring strips and panels I need to attach
to concrete walls (to attach cabinets and shelving and industrial lighting),
so perhaps if I look ahead if might pay for me to invest in a good
compressor and some air tools. I would rather get fewer good quality tools
then a bunch of one off items.

Is there an air tool that would do finish nailing, structural nailing, and
also punch wood into concrete?

MC


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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

"MiamiCuse" wrote:


-snip-
The problem is I don't have a compressor to drive the palm nailer anyways,
so either way I think I need to spend some money on something to make the

-snip-

I haven't hired a pro for anything but autowork in 30 years. Yet
it was just a couple years ago that I bought my [first] compressor.
Shaking my head now when I think of how much I could have used it over
the years.

I have a cheap Harbor freight job- 10gallons, rated 2HP- about $120 on
sale. It is a little slow for grinding, die cutting and
sandblasting. But I've nailed, painted, blown things clean, etc to my
hearts content.

Is there an air tool that would do finish nailing, structural nailing, and
also punch wood into concrete?


For nailers I have a Porter Cable FR350 framer that drives 3 1/2" full
headed nails; a Bostitch finish nailer that drives 1" to 2" finish
nails; and a couple $10 brad nailers and staplers from Harbor Freight.

Driving finish nails and not having to go back and set them is a real
pleasure. The brad nailers are pretty handy, too. I don't do a
lot of framing but if I did I can see where the framer would be a big
timesaver. For me it just saves my elbow joints.

For attaching framing lumber to concrete I like Tapcons. There is a
T-nailer that drives hardened nails, but I've never seen one at work.

Jim


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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

Jim Elbrecht wrote in
:

"MiamiCuse" wrote:


-snip-
The problem is I don't have a compressor to drive the palm nailer
anyways, so either way I think I need to spend some money on something
to make the

-snip-

I haven't hired a pro for anything but autowork in 30 years.


Ditto

Yet
it was just a couple years ago that I bought my [first] compressor.


Ditto

Shaking my head now when I think of how much I could have used it over
the years.


and more ditto.


I have a cheap Harbor freight job- 10gallons, rated 2HP- about $120 on
sale. It is a little slow for grinding, die cutting and
sandblasting. But I've nailed, painted, blown things clean, etc to my
hearts content.

Is there an air tool that would do finish nailing, structural nailing,
and also punch wood into concrete?


For nailers I have a Porter Cable FR350 framer that drives 3 1/2" full
headed nails; a Bostitch finish nailer that drives 1" to 2" finish
nails; and a couple $10 brad nailers and staplers from Harbor Freight.

Driving finish nails and not having to go back and set them is a real
pleasure. The brad nailers are pretty handy, too. I don't do a
lot of framing but if I did I can see where the framer would be a big
timesaver. For me it just saves my elbow joints.

For attaching framing lumber to concrete I like Tapcons. There is a
T-nailer that drives hardened nails, but I've never seen one at work.

Jim


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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

On Dec 25, 7:10*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message

...
On Dec 24, 5:25 am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over
nails.


However once in a while I need to use nails.


I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward.
I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails
as
I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...


Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?


or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I cannot
use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.


Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.


Thanks,


MC
MC-
I was quite handy with a hammer (when younger & much more
practiced). * As I have gotten older one trick that works for me is a
mill faced hammer. *The milled face keeps hammer from slipping off the
nail head & reduces the tendency to bend the nails.
But in your situation, since this is going to be a "one off" project,
I would suggest a palm nailer.
I bought my Senco used on ebay but I'm sure Harbor Freight has a cheap
knock off.
You could also use a Senco 16 gage 7/16" crown stapler w/ 2"
staples. * And staple the crap out of the plywood gussets. *Based on
some strength & stiffness tests I did .......... * I figured two
staples have "about" the same capacity as one 10d nail.
Another nice thing about staples is that the "trauma" to the wood is a
lot less than that for large diameter nails.
cheers
Bob


Bob:

Thanks,

The problem is I don't have a compressor to drive the palm nailer anyways,
so either way I think I need to spend some money on something to make the
job easier. *I have three areas in the attic to use this on, so it will help
me greatly if this is a time and elbow grease saver. *I deliberately waited
till winter time to do this project because summer time in Miami up in the
attic at 105 degrees in an awkward position is not fun, further more I
recently strained my back so that also made it harder for me to have the
maximum effect on hammering.

Looking further ahead on my fasteners need in my never ending remodeling
job, I am going to subcontract the sheet rock and flooring, so I don't need
to worry about that myself. *I will need to repair some 1/2" thick wood
soffit ceiling panels "Ply-Bead" that I need to either nail or staple, *I
have 7 rooms of baseboards and interior door trims which I will do myself
(finish nailers), and quite a few furring strips and panels I need to attach
to concrete walls (to attach cabinets and shelving and industrial lighting),
so perhaps if I look ahead if might pay for me to invest in a good
compressor and some air tools. *I would rather get fewer good quality tools
then a bunch of one off items.

Is there an air tool that would do finish nailing, structural nailing, and
also punch wood into concrete?

MC- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


The New Craftman nailer tool is a Battery operated nailer, very small,
But a cheap Remington gun nail driver is quicker and a heavy duty
tool, and you will get a bang out of work. The Craftsman will only
give you a buzz.
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I have seen a tool someone used to attach PT 1x form work to concrete walls.
It drives a nail into the wood and concrete and the nail has a plastic
orange gear looking like tail attached to it. I wonder what that tool is,
is it a nailer?


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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 11:22:25 -0500, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

I have seen a tool someone used to attach PT 1x form work to concrete walls.
It drives a nail into the wood and concrete and the nail has a plastic
orange gear looking like tail attached to it. I wonder what that tool is,
is it a nailer?


Sounds like a Ramset-
http://constructionfastening.com/Ram...MnGgodoheb Dg
[cool video]

Jim
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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 12:27:20 -0500, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 11:22:25 -0500, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

I have seen a tool someone used to attach PT 1x form work to concrete walls.
It drives a nail into the wood and concrete and the nail has a plastic
orange gear looking like tail attached to it. I wonder what that tool is,
is it a nailer?


Sounds like a Ramset-
http://constructionfastening.com/Ram...MnGgodoheb Dg
[cool video]

Jim


You can buy: Ramset 22 Caliber Single Shot Trigger Activated Powder
Actuated Tool - RS22 * Liquid Nails and a Ramset will do the job. Is
this just block walls or a solid poured wall?

HD had a hammer activated one for 20 bucks or so.

*
http://www.hechinger.com/hardware/online/ramset-rs22


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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

On Dec 26, 10:22*am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have seen a tool someone used to attach PT 1x form work to concrete walls.
It drives a nail into the wood and concrete and the nail has a plastic
orange gear looking like tail attached to it. *I wonder what that tool is,
is it a nailer?


Probably a .22 caliber powered driver, cheap, and does concrete.
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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?


"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 12:27:20 -0500, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 11:22:25 -0500, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

I have seen a tool someone used to attach PT 1x form work to concrete
walls.
It drives a nail into the wood and concrete and the nail has a plastic
orange gear looking like tail attached to it. I wonder what that tool
is,
is it a nailer?


Sounds like a Ramset-
http://constructionfastening.com/Ram...MnGgodoheb Dg
[cool video]

Jim


You can buy: Ramset 22 Caliber Single Shot Trigger Activated Powder
Actuated Tool - RS22 * Liquid Nails and a Ramset will do the job. Is
this just block walls or a solid poured wall?

HD had a hammer activated one for 20 bucks or so.

*
http://www.hechinger.com/hardware/online/ramset-rs22


Block wall in most areas and solid poured walls in a few other locations.
Yes I think it is a ramset. For some reason I have always assumed it's an
air tool of some sort. So I can go with gas tools or air tools?


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"Ken" wrote in message
...
MiamiCuse wrote:
I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over
nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is
awkward. I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up
the nails as I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I
cannot use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC


You might consider using lag bolts to secure the items. They can be
tightened with a wrench since they have a hex head or square head, and
that allows tightening in confined spaces.


Thanks but I hesitate to use lag bolts because they need much bigger holes
and tend to take away too much materials from the framing.


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Default How to properly use a hammer on nails?

MiamiCuse wrote:
"Ken" wrote in message
...
MiamiCuse wrote:
I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over
nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood
gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is
awkward. I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up
the nails as I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I
cannot use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a
power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC

You might consider using lag bolts to secure the items. They can be
tightened with a wrench since they have a hex head or square head, and
that allows tightening in confined spaces.


Thanks but I hesitate to use lag bolts because they need much bigger holes
and tend to take away too much materials from the framing.


This may sound "different" but have you considered "glue"? There are
some spectacular "glues" out there these days.

Lou
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On Sat, 27 Dec 2008 10:21:25 -0500, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:


"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 12:27:20 -0500, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 11:22:25 -0500, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

I have seen a tool someone used to attach PT 1x form work to concrete
walls.
It drives a nail into the wood and concrete and the nail has a plastic
orange gear looking like tail attached to it. I wonder what that tool
is,
is it a nailer?

Sounds like a Ramset-
http://constructionfastening.com/Ram...MnGgodoheb Dg
[cool video]

Jim


You can buy: Ramset 22 Caliber Single Shot Trigger Activated Powder
Actuated Tool - RS22 * Liquid Nails and a Ramset will do the job. Is
this just block walls or a solid poured wall?

HD had a hammer activated one for 20 bucks or so.

*
http://www.hechinger.com/hardware/online/ramset-rs22


Block wall in most areas and solid poured walls in a few other locations.
Yes I think it is a ramset. For some reason I have always assumed it's an
air tool of some sort. So I can go with gas tools or air tools?


Each wall may require a different load (color). Block and a solid wall
loads are different.

Ramset is gun-powder/rim fire shot. A good load/fastener will
penetrate.

Use butyl caulk and few shots fired the wood stay on the wall.
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