What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill, to
drilling a ring of small holes in a circle with a carbide bit to renting or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. What's the best way of doing it so as
NOT to crack the block?

--
Bobby G.

You did ask for the best. A dry diamond core can mounted on a
right angle grinder. Clean and efficient.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through
a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a
star drill, to
drilling a ring of small holes in a circle with a carbide bit
to renting or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. What's the best way of doing
it so as
NOT to crack the block?

--
Bobby G.

In article ,
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Jun 2008 23:37:02 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill, to
drilling a ring of small holes in a circle with a carbide bit to renting or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. What's the best way of doing it so as
NOT to crack the block?


How about a carbide hole saw?

If you don't mind the noise, a ,22 rifle can get the job done. Watch
out for block & bullets bouncing

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

I have used them all. FIrst of all, I am sure you don't really have a cinder
block wall. Many people wrongly call concrete blocks, cinder blocks which
were made from coal cinders. Making a hole in real cinder blocks is easy,
they are soft and can be punctured without much effort. Now concrete blocks
are different, they are hard and brittle.

You can use any method and it will not crack the block unless you use
extreme force to do the job. The easiest is to rent a large drill and bit
from your local big box store. The hardest part is to find out if you have
two core or three core blocks. New walls will be 2 core. Whatever method you
use will work best if you miss the web in the block. You may have to do some
small hole drilling to find the core and web. Old blocks with 3 cores are
easy to work if you drill through the center and hit the center core. Newer
blocks will only have two cores and you will hit the web if you drill in the
middle, so you need to drill 1/3 of the way from the end. The year that
manufacturers changed to two core blocks will vary according to when they
changed machines and moulds.

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill,
to
drilling a ring of small holes in a circle with a carbide bit to renting
or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. What's the best way of doing it so as
NOT to crack the block?

--
Bobby G.

Also makes a difference if you have re-bar on every 3rd coarse and blocks
filled with concrete like mine are

"EXT" wrote in message
ews.com...
I have used them all. FIrst of all, I am sure you don't really have a
cinder block wall. Many people wrongly call concrete blocks, cinder blocks
which were made from coal cinders. Making a hole in real cinder blocks is
easy, they are soft and can be punctured without much effort. Now concrete
blocks are different, they are hard and brittle.

You can use any method and it will not crack the block unless you use
extreme force to do the job. The easiest is to rent a large drill and bit
from your local big box store. The hardest part is to find out if you have
two core or three core blocks. New walls will be 2 core. Whatever method
you use will work best if you miss the web in the block. You may have to
do some small hole drilling to find the core and web. Old blocks with 3
cores are easy to work if you drill through the center and hit the center
core. Newer blocks will only have two cores and you will hit the web if
you drill in the middle, so you need to drill 1/3 of the way from the end.
The year that manufacturers changed to two core blocks will vary according
to when they changed machines and moulds.

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill,
to
drilling a ring of small holes in a circle with a carbide bit to renting
or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. What's the best way of doing it so as
NOT to crack the block?

--
Bobby G.

Yes, vertical re-bars mortared in the cores, sometimes from footing up to
the sill plate, can cause problems. You may want to check with a metal
detector to see if you can find any. Horizontal reinforcement would most
likely be in the mortar joint, so avoid penetrating in this area.


"Greg" wrote in message
news:b7x1k.6244$C12.3397@pd7urf3no...
Also makes a difference if you have re-bar on every 3rd coarse and blocks
filled with concrete like mine are

"EXT" wrote in message
ews.com...
I have used them all. FIrst of all, I am sure you don't really have a
cinder block wall. Many people wrongly call concrete blocks, cinder blocks
which were made from coal cinders. Making a hole in real cinder blocks is
easy, they are soft and can be punctured without much effort. Now concrete
blocks are different, they are hard and brittle.

You can use any method and it will not crack the block unless you use
extreme force to do the job. The easiest is to rent a large drill and bit
from your local big box store. The hardest part is to find out if you
have two core or three core blocks. New walls will be 2 core. Whatever
method you use will work best if you miss the web in the block. You may
have to do some small hole drilling to find the core and web. Old blocks
with 3 cores are easy to work if you drill through the center and hit the
center core. Newer blocks will only have two cores and you will hit the
web if you drill in the middle, so you need to drill 1/3 of the way from
the end. The year that manufacturers changed to two core blocks will vary
according to when they changed machines and moulds.

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill,
to
drilling a ring of small holes in a circle with a carbide bit to
renting or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. What's the best way of doing it so
as
NOT to crack the block?

--
Bobby G.

On Jun 4, 6:21*am, "EXT" wrote:
I have used them all. FIrst of all, I am sure you don't really have a cinder
block wall. Many people wrongly call concrete blocks, cinder blocks which
were made from coal cinders. Making a hole in real cinder blocks is easy,
they are soft and can be punctured without much effort. Now concrete blocks
are different, they are hard and brittle.

You can use any method and it will not crack the block unless you use
extreme force to do the job. The easiest is to rent a large drill and bit
from your local big box store. The hardest part is to find out if you have
two core or three core blocks. New walls will be 2 core. Whatever method you
use will work best if you miss the web in the block. You may have to do some
small hole drilling to find the core and web. Old blocks with 3 cores are
easy to work if you drill through the center and hit the center core. Newer
blocks will only have two cores and you will hit the web if you drill in the
middle, so you need to drill 1/3 of the way from the end. The year that
manufacturers changed to two core blocks will vary according to when they
changed machines and moulds.

"Robert Green" wrote in message

...



What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill,
to
drilling a ring of small *holes in a circle with a carbide bit to renting
or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. * What's the best way of doing it so as
NOT to crack the block?

--
Bobby G.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Excellent points. The worry about 'crackign the block' is no biggee.
The likely hood of making a tight fitting 2" hole without using a core
drill is zero so it will have to be patched in any case. I have done
the BFH route and patched the remains later, used a 3/8" hammer drill
and small concrete bit and probably a few other methods. If I ever
have to do it again it will be 'rent a real electric hammer and decent
bit, drill a ring of holes and knock out with hammer' Of course being
careful to miss the web.

Harry K

On Jun 4, 10:58�am, Harry K wrote:
On Jun 4, 6:21�am, "EXT" wrote:





I have used them all. FIrst of all, I am sure you don't really have a cinder
block wall. Many people wrongly call concrete blocks, cinder blocks which
were made from coal cinders. Making a hole in real cinder blocks is easy,
they are soft and can be punctured without much effort. Now concrete blocks
are different, they are hard and brittle.

You can use any method and it will not crack the block unless you use
extreme force to do the job. The easiest is to rent a large drill and bit
from your local big box store. The hardest part is to find out if you have
two core or three core blocks. New walls will be 2 core. Whatever method you
use will work best if you miss the web in the block. You may have to do some
small hole drilling to find the core and web. Old blocks with 3 cores are
easy to work if you drill through the center and hit the center core. Newer
blocks will only have two cores and you will hit the web if you drill in the
middle, so you need to drill 1/3 of the way from the end. The year that
manufacturers changed to two core blocks will vary according to when they
changed machines and moulds.

"Robert Green" wrote in message

.. .

What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill,
to
drilling a ring of small �holes in a circle with a carbide bit to renting
or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. � What's the best way of doing it so as
NOT to crack the block?

--
Bobby G.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Excellent points. �The worry about 'crackign the block' is no biggee.
The likely hood of making a tight fitting 2" hole without using a core
drill is zero so it will have to be patched in any case. �I have done
the BFH route and patched the remains later, used a 3/8" hammer drill
and small concrete bit and probably a few other methods. �If I ever
have to do it again it will be 'rent a real electric hammer and decent
bit, drill a ring of holes and knock out with hammer' �Of course being
careful to miss the web.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

if its not a daily reoccuring job a harbor freight hmmer drill, is
cheap and effective

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 3 Jun 2008 23:37:02 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill,
to
drilling a ring of small holes in a circle with a carbide bit to renting
or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. What's the best way of doing it so as
NOT to crack the block?


How about a carbide hole saw?

Know a good place to get a 2" one on-line? So far, I've seen them in kits
for about $200 for six. Can a regular 1/2" 110VAC drill power one?

--
Bobby G.

"nick hull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Jun 2008 23:37:02 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a
cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star
drill, to
drilling a ring of small holes in a circle with a carbide bit to
renting or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. What's the best way of doing it so
as
NOT to crack the block?


How about a carbide hole saw?

If you don't mind the noise, a ,22 rifle can get the job done. Watch
out for block & bullets bouncing

I'll keep that in mind.

--
Bobby G.

"DanG" wrote in message
...
You did ask for the best. A dry diamond core can mounted on a
right angle grinder. Clean and efficient.

Yes I did. But I own neither. I probably should have added that I would
prefer a solution that would work with a run of the mill, 1/2" AC power
drill that I do own.

Thanks for the suggestion.

--
Bobby G.

"EXT" wrote in message
ews.com...
I have used them all. FIrst of all, I am sure you don't really have a
cinder
block wall. Many people wrongly call concrete blocks, cinder blocks which
were made from coal cinders. Making a hole in real cinder blocks is easy,
they are soft and can be punctured without much effort. Now concrete
blocks
are different, they are hard and brittle.

You are probably correct. It has the very rough and granular texture I
associate with cinder blocks, but I'm not quite sure how to tell the
difference without a hardness tester.

You can use any method and it will not crack the block unless you use
extreme force to do the job. The easiest is to rent a large drill and bit
from your local big box store. The hardest part is to find out if you have
two core or three core blocks. New walls will be 2 core. Whatever method
you
use will work best if you miss the web in the block. You may have to do
some
small hole drilling to find the core and web. Old blocks with 3 cores are
easy to work if you drill through the center and hit the center core.
Newer
blocks will only have two cores and you will hit the web if you drill in
the
middle, so you need to drill 1/3 of the way from the end. The year that
manufacturers changed to two core blocks will vary according to when they
changed machines and moulds.

House was built in the midst of war shortages in 1942, if that helps.
There's also a section where the block has heaved so I can get a better idea
what I am dealing with by inspecting that section of the wall. I believe
it's open enough to make the two/three determination.

Thanks for the input.

--
Bobby G.

"Greg" wrote in message
news:b7x1k.6244$C12.3397@pd7urf3no...
Also makes a difference if you have re-bar on every 3rd coarse and
blocks
filled with concrete like mine are

Well, if my previous experience of trying to drill through to the basement
and managing to hit a discarded hammer head inside the wall cavity is any
indication, I'll run into something nasty. Acutually, now that I am reading
through this, I realize there's a dryer duct installed that I can pull that
should give me a better idea of what I am facing. Thanks for the input.

--
Bobby G.

"EXT" wrote in message
ews.com...
Yes, vertical re-bars mortared in the cores, sometimes from footing up to
the sill plate, can cause problems. You may want to check with a metal
detector to see if you can find any. Horizontal reinforcement would most
likely be in the mortar joint, so avoid penetrating in this area.

A good idea, but I'm betting there's no rebar because everything was in
short supply in 1942. They skipped on things like putting building paper
between the subfloors so the open basement ceiling rains down plaster dust
on the stuff below. Such an easy thing to have done right during
construction and now such a bitch to remediate.

--
Bobby G.

"Harry K" wrote in message
news:1583afa4-82f9-4b4b-ad0b-

stuff snipped

Excellent points. The worry about 'crackign the block' is no biggee.
The likely hood of making a tight fitting 2" hole without using a core
drill is zero so it will have to be patched in any case. I have done
the BFH route and patched the remains later, used a 3/8" hammer drill
and small concrete bit and probably a few other methods. If I ever
have to do it again it will be 'rent a real electric hammer and decent
bit, drill a ring of holes and knock out with hammer' Of course being
careful to miss the web.

It's beginning to look like renting the right gear is the way to go.
Thanks!

--
Bobby G.

wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

if its not a daily reoccuring job a harbor freight hmmer drill, is
cheap and effective

So far, it's a once in 25 years job so I think HF might do the trick. I
will have to cut some smaller holes to mount an HDTV antenna and rotor in
the next few weeks, but after that, the block wall should be safe for
another 25 years. Thanks!

--
Bobby G.

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
"EXT" wrote in message
ews.com...
I have used them all. FIrst of all, I am sure you don't really have a
cinder
block wall. Many people wrongly call concrete blocks, cinder blocks which
were made from coal cinders. Making a hole in real cinder blocks is easy,
they are soft and can be punctured without much effort. Now concrete
blocks
are different, they are hard and brittle.

You are probably correct. It has the very rough and granular texture I
associate with cinder blocks, but I'm not quite sure how to tell the
difference without a hardness tester.

You can use any method and it will not crack the block unless you use
extreme force to do the job. The easiest is to rent a large drill and bit
from your local big box store. The hardest part is to find out if you
have
two core or three core blocks. New walls will be 2 core. Whatever method
you
use will work best if you miss the web in the block. You may have to do
some
small hole drilling to find the core and web. Old blocks with 3 cores are
easy to work if you drill through the center and hit the center core.
Newer
blocks will only have two cores and you will hit the web if you drill in
the
middle, so you need to drill 1/3 of the way from the end. The year that
manufacturers changed to two core blocks will vary according to when they
changed machines and moulds.

House was built in the midst of war shortages in 1942, if that helps.
There's also a section where the block has heaved so I can get a better
idea
what I am dealing with by inspecting that section of the wall. I believe
it's open enough to make the two/three determination.

1940s --- I would venture that you have 3 core blocks, they started cutting
back on the concrete used in the 60s.

On Jun 4, 12:35�pm, "EXT" wrote:
"Robert Green" wrote in message

...





"EXT" wrote in message
news.com...
I have used them all. FIrst of all, I am sure you don't really have a
cinder
block wall. Many people wrongly call concrete blocks, cinder blocks which
were made from coal cinders. Making a hole in real cinder blocks is easy,
they are soft and can be punctured without much effort. Now concrete
blocks
are different, they are hard and brittle.

You are probably correct. �It has the very rough and granular texture I
associate with cinder blocks, but I'm not quite sure how to tell the
difference without a hardness tester.

You can use any method and it will not crack the block unless you use
extreme force to do the job. The easiest is to rent a large drill and bit
from your local big box store. The hardest part is to find out if you
have
two core or three core blocks. New walls will be 2 core. Whatever method
you
use will work best if you miss the web in the block. You may have to do
some
small hole drilling to find the core and web. Old blocks with 3 cores are
easy to work if you drill through the center and hit the center core.
Newer
blocks will only have two cores and you will hit the web if you drill in
the
middle, so you need to drill 1/3 of the way from the end. The year that
manufacturers changed to two core blocks will vary according to when they
changed machines and moulds.

House was built in the midst of war shortages in 1942, if that helps.
There's also a section where the block has heaved so I can get a better
idea
what I am dealing with by inspecting that section of the wall. �I believe
it's open enough to make the two/three determination.

1940s --- I would venture that you have 3 core blocks, they started cutting
back on the concrete used in the 60s.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41983

costs a bit more but well worth the money, makes a multi hour star
drill job a 5 minute no work event.........

Robert Green wrote:

How about a carbide hole saw?

Know a good place to get a 2" one on-line? So far, I've seen them in
kits for about $200 for six. Can a regular 1/2" 110VAC drill power
one?

You might try a 2" metal hole saw. They should be available at the box
stores and don't cost much. Here's a quick hit on a 2.5" hole bit for
$15.00. http://www.doityourself.com/invt/u306624

As for 1/2" drill, should be no problem - they should run at a MUCH slower
speed than when drilling wood.

OR

You could just poke an ugly opening, insert a 2.5" bit of PVC, then fill the
void up with cement.

wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41983

costs a bit more but well worth the money, makes a multi hour star
drill job a 5 minute no work event.........

I had already put the much cheaper ($29):

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45338

in my cart but now I am not so sure. I need it to make one hole. I have
some masonry bits but I assume they may not be for hammer drills. The unit
you recommended has a bit pack with it, and a brush and the rubber cup
design looks more protective of the drill. I am not sure that matters,
though, since I will be drilling and my helper will be using the shopvac to
catch what probably will be substantial debris. Both are made by Chicago.
One's a 1" and the other's only 1/2" and one weighs 5 pounds and the other
10. The thirty dollar price difference buys me this carbide hole saw:

http://www.westerntool.com/product.htm?pid=429588

Decisions, decisions.

--
Bobby G.

"EXT" wrote in message
ews.com...
Old blocks with 3 cores are easy to work if you drill through the center
and hit the center core.
Newer blocks will only have two cores and you will hit the web if you
drill in the
middle, so you need to drill 1/3 of the way from the end. The year that
manufacturers changed to two core blocks will vary according to when
they
changed machines and moulds.

House was built in the midst of war shortages in 1942, if that helps.
There's also a section where the block has heaved so I can get a better
idea what I am dealing with by inspecting that section of the wall. I
believe it's open enough to make the two/three determination.

1940s --- I would venture that you have 3 core blocks, they started
cutting
back on the concrete used in the 60s.

I'm not so sure what I've got. As I recall from the rupture, these blocks
were much darker, almost blue in color. The way they broke open under the
basement window sill does not speak to a strong cohesion, either. They are
definitely darker and more granular than the grey blocks you find at the
BORG. IIRC, they are smaller than your average concrete block, but I've not
had a lot of experience with them. Looks like stone flakes pressed
together. When I get home, I'll take some pictures of the ruptured area and
post them.

--
Bobby G.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Robert Green wrote:

How about a carbide hole saw?

Know a good place to get a 2" one on-line? So far, I've seen them in
kits for about $200 for six. Can a regular 1/2" 110VAC drill power
one?

You might try a 2" metal hole saw. They should be available at the box
stores and don't cost much. Here's a quick hit on a 2.5" hole bit for
$15.00. http://www.doityourself.com/invt/u306624

I suspect that masonry is best attacked with "sterner stuff" - something
with a carbide or diamond tip. Thanks for the suggestion, though. I've
been able to find carbide tipped hole saws for not much more and I probably
wouldn't have to worry about it becoming too dull to even finish the job.

As for 1/2" drill, should be no problem - they should run at a MUCH slower
speed than when drilling wood.

A hammer drill seems to be a better proposition for drilling through
masonry. Even the big 1" model is dirt cheap compared to some other
options. I might just use the masonry bits I have in the drill I have to
see what kind of progress I can make. The ring of small holes sounds like
the best way to go and the small bits are far cheaper than hole saws.

You could just poke an ugly opening, insert a 2.5" bit of PVC, then fill
the
void up with cement.

Well, I'm afraid that will probably be the end product no matter what
approach I take. Experience is gained proportional to the amount of
equipment or material ruined.

--
Bobby G.

On Wed, 4 Jun 2008 12:35:01 -0400, "EXT"
wrote:
"Robert Green" wrote in message
.. .
House was built in the midst of war shortages in 1942, if that helps.
There's also a section where the block has heaved so I can get a better
idea
what I am dealing with by inspecting that section of the wall. I believe
it's open enough to make the two/three determination.

1940s --- I would venture that you have 3 core blocks, they started cutting
back on the concrete used in the 60s.

See why learning history is so important, kids? Thanks for this mini
lesson!

On Jun 4, 8:20Â*am, " wrote:
On Jun 4, 10:58�am, Harry K wrote:





On Jun 4, 6:21�am, "EXT" wrote:

I have used them all. FIrst of all, I am sure you don't really have a cinder
block wall. Many people wrongly call concrete blocks, cinder blocks which
were made from coal cinders. Making a hole in real cinder blocks is easy,
they are soft and can be punctured without much effort. Now concrete blocks
are different, they are hard and brittle.

You can use any method and it will not crack the block unless you use
extreme force to do the job. The easiest is to rent a large drill and bit
from your local big box store. The hardest part is to find out if you have
two core or three core blocks. New walls will be 2 core. Whatever method you
use will work best if you miss the web in the block. You may have to do some
small hole drilling to find the core and web. Old blocks with 3 cores are
easy to work if you drill through the center and hit the center core. Newer
blocks will only have two cores and you will hit the web if you drill in the
middle, so you need to drill 1/3 of the way from the end. The year that
manufacturers changed to two core blocks will vary according to when they
changed machines and moulds.

"Robert Green" wrote in message

.. .

What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill,
to
drilling a ring of small �holes in a circle with a carbide bit to renting
or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. � What's the best way of doing it so as
NOT to crack the block?

--
Bobby G.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Excellent points. �The worry about 'crackign the block' is no biggee.
The likely hood of making a tight fitting 2" hole without using a core
drill is zero so it will have to be patched in any case. �I have done
the BFH route and patched the remains later, used a 3/8" hammer drill
and small concrete bit and probably a few other methods. �If I ever
have to do it again it will be 'rent a real electric hammer and decent
bit, drill a ring of holes and knock out with hammer' �Of course being
careful to miss the web.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

if its not a daily Â*reoccuring job a harbor freight hmmer drill, is
cheap and effective- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Having used a 3/8" and 1/2" hammer drill and concrete bits before
several times and also gone the 'rent a real rotary hammer route, it
will be the rotary hammer from now on. A few minutes with one of
those beats long sessions with a hammer drill.

Harry K

"KLS" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 4 Jun 2008 12:35:01 -0400, "EXT"
wrote:
"Robert Green" wrote in message
. ..
House was built in the midst of war shortages in 1942, if that helps.
There's also a section where the block has heaved so I can get a better
idea
what I am dealing with by inspecting that section of the wall. I
believe
it's open enough to make the two/three determination.

1940s --- I would venture that you have 3 core blocks, they started
cutting
back on the concrete used in the 60s.

See why learning history is so important, kids? Thanks for this mini
lesson!

As a certified old fart, I have a wealth of useless information clogging up
my brain. Trivia that I rarely get to use except for the rare occasion.

On Thu, 5 Jun 2008 14:37:33 -0400, "EXT"
wrote:

As a certified old fart, I have a wealth of useless information clogging up
my brain. Trivia that I rarely get to use except for the rare occasion.

You'll enjoy this article if you haven't read it already (it made my
75-yo father feel really good):
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/20/he...q=brain&st=nyt

On Jun 4, 10:54Â*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Jun 4, 8:20Â*am, " wrote:





On Jun 4, 10:58�am, Harry K wrote:

On Jun 4, 6:21�am, "EXT" wrote:

I have used them all. FIrst of all, I am sure you don't really have a cinder
block wall. Many people wrongly call concrete blocks, cinder blocks which
were made from coal cinders. Making a hole in real cinder blocks is easy,
they are soft and can be punctured without much effort. Now concrete blocks
are different, they are hard and brittle.

You can use any method and it will not crack the block unless you use
extreme force to do the job. The easiest is to rent a large drill and bit
from your local big box store. The hardest part is to find out if you have
two core or three core blocks. New walls will be 2 core. Whatever method you
use will work best if you miss the web in the block. You may have to do some
small hole drilling to find the core and web. Old blocks with 3 cores are
easy to work if you drill through the center and hit the center core.. Newer
blocks will only have two cores and you will hit the web if you drill in the
middle, so you need to drill 1/3 of the way from the end. The year that
manufacturers changed to two core blocks will vary according to when they
changed machines and moulds.

"Robert Green" wrote in message

.. .

What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill,
to
drilling a ring of small �holes in a circle with a carbide bit to renting
or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. � What's the best way of doing it so as
NOT to crack the block?

--
Bobby G.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Excellent points. �The worry about 'crackign the block' is no biggee.
The likely hood of making a tight fitting 2" hole without using a core
drill is zero so it will have to be patched in any case. �I have done
the BFH route and patched the remains later, used a 3/8" hammer drill
and small concrete bit and probably a few other methods. �If I ever
have to do it again it will be 'rent a real electric hammer and decent
bit, drill a ring of holes and knock out with hammer' �Of course being
careful to miss the web.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

if its not a daily Â*reoccuring job a harbor freight hmmer drill, is
cheap and effective- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Having used a 3/8" Â*and 1/2" hammer drill and concrete bits before
several times and also gone the 'rent a real rotary hammer route, it
will be the rotary hammer from now on. Â*A few minutes with one of
those beats long sessions with a hammer drill.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

the 70 buck harbor freight SDS one works fine for occasional use.....

On Jun 3, 11:37*pm, "Robert Green" wrote:
What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill, to
drilling a ring of small *holes in a circle with a carbide bit to renting or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. * What's the best way of doing it so as
NOT to crack the block?

--
Bobby G.

They make 2" masonry bits for hammer drills. Drill each side instead
of drilling all from one side. This is what causes blowouts.


Just a reminder, if it is a 2 inch pipe, the bit needs to be at least
2.5.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 4 Jun 2008 11:28:06 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

Know a good place to get a 2" one on-line? So far, I've seen them in
kits
for about $200 for six. Can a regular 1/2" 110VAC drill power one?


I got a smaller one at Home Depot to drill a couple holes in a tile
counter for a faucet. I am not sure how big they go.

Thanks for the info. As long as I know they can be had at the WorkBench I'm
happy. Gonna try it with just the non-hammer 1/2" drill and a carbide bit
hole saw from the Borg and escalate from there . . .

--
Bobby G.

"Harry K" wrote in message
news:0ead0499-8924-4079-b4cc-

stuff snipped

if its not a daily  reoccuring job a harbor freight hmmer drill, is
cheap and effective- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Having used a 3/8" and 1/2" hammer drill and concrete bits before
several times and also gone the 'rent a real rotary hammer route, it
will be the rotary hammer from now on. A few minutes with one of
those beats long sessions with a hammer drill.

Here's what I googled about rotary hammers:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...uidedrill.html

is only vaguely helpful, and
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_hammer_drill wasn't much help either.
How MUCH faster would you say it takes to bore a 2" hole with a rotary
hammer than with a hammer drill?

Thanks,

--
Bobby G.

and Harry K wrote
Having used a 3/8" Â and 1/2" hammer drill and concrete bits before
several times and also gone the 'rent a real rotary hammer route, it
will be the rotary hammer from now on. Â A few minutes with one of
those beats long sessions with a hammer drill.

Harry K-

the 70 buck harbor freight SDS one works fine for occasional use.....

Decisions, decisions. So far, the use interval has been 20 odd years and I
don't really need another tool to store but if it's dramatically faster, I
might just rent one on a day I need some other rental tools as well.

Thanks for the input

--
Bobby G.

"metspitzer" wrote in message
...
On Jun 3, 11:37 pm, "Robert Green" wrote:
What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder
block wall?

I've researched a variety of suggestions from a hammer and a star drill,
to
drilling a ring of small holes in a circle with a carbide bit to renting
or
buying a diamond tipped core bit. What's the best way of doing it so as
NOT to crack the block?

--
Bobby G.

They make 2" masonry bits for hammer drills. Drill each side instead
of drilling all from one side. This is what causes blowouts.

Just like drilling through wood like that causes splintering. Excellent
advice, thanks. I have a masonry bit with a small diameter (3/8" IIRC) and
an 18" long shaft that I thought I would drill through first to give me a
center hole for the hole saw guide bit on each side.

Just a reminder, if it is a 2 inch pipe, the bit needs to be at least 2.5.

Already factored in. It's 1.5" pipe.

Thanks!

--
Bobby G.

Didn't rerad all the comments, but did anyone mention the moron that fired a
bullet through the wall for his cable? Killed his wife with a clean shot. I
wonder if the guy had any cable parts laying around?

I once pounded a 4" or 5" hole in 10" of solid concrete for a dryer vent. That
took a cold chisel, 24oz hammer, and a lot of beer. I didn't know i couldn't do
it....so I did it! My arms were like Jello after that.

If you don't mind the noise, a ,22 rifle can get the job done. Watch
out for block & bullets bouncing

"Vlad" wrote in message
...
Didn't rerad all the comments, but did anyone mention the moron that fired
a
bullet through the wall for his cable? Killed his wife with a clean shot.
I
wonder if the guy had any cable parts laying around?

My wife might take offense at that method.

I once pounded a 4" or 5" hole in 10" of solid concrete for a dryer vent.
That
took a cold chisel, 24oz hammer, and a lot of beer. I didn't know i
couldn't do
it....so I did it! My arms were like Jello after that.

Who knows more about making holes than Vlad the Impaler? Rotary hammer it
is!

(-:

If you don't mind the noise, a ,22 rifle can get the job done. Watch
out for block & bullets bouncing