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Default Costs of roof repairs

I have a shingle roof that has 3 areas of repair needed. A roofing
contractor looked at it and told me this. His company only does new
roofs and he said I didn't need a new roof, only repair.

He also said that it's one sheet in two of the places and 3 to 5
sheets in the other place. So it would be 7 sheets total repair.

My roof is pitched from 10 feet to 8 feet high in 12 feet of length.

I'm told it's got 3/8 particle board with shingles.

I'm trying to get an approximate cost per/sheet of repair. I'm told
that's how it's priced.

The board right under the roof that is a 1/2 inch by 4 and runs around
the entire house also needs repair in about 20 feet of length.

I've just put out a bid for the repair, and I'm trying to get an idea
of what the cost might be for the entire repair. Just a ballpark idea
so that I know what "window" of price to expect.

Thanks for any help offered.
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Sorry, I should have said that this is in Northeast Florida.


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On Mar 1, 9:04�am, Merlin wrote:
I have a shingle roof that has 3 areas of repair needed. A roofing
contractor looked at it and told me this. His company only does new
roofs and he said I didn't need a new roof, only repair.

He also said that it's one sheet in two of the places and 3 to 5
sheets in the other place. So it would be 7 sheets total repair.

My roof is pitched from 10 feet to 8 feet high in 12 feet of length.

I'm told it's got 3/8 particle board with shingles.

I'm trying to get an approximate cost per/sheet of repair. I'm told
that's how it's priced.

The board right under the roof that is a 1/2 inch by 4 and runs around
the entire house also needs repair in about 20 feet of length.

I've just put out a bid for the repair, and I'm trying to get an idea
of what the cost might be for the entire repair. Just a ballpark idea
so that I know what "window" of price to expect.

Thanks for any help offered.


i would get mre than one estimate, how old is your roof? just exactly
what is wrong with these areas.

how big is your roof? if a large percetage has troubles and the roof
is in middle age your probably better off to replace the entire roof.

patching is just patching.

whenm particle board gets wet it can fall apart fast. so plan on some
deck repair.
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"Merlin" wrote in message
...
I have a shingle roof that has 3 areas of repair needed. A roofing
contractor looked at it and told me this. His company only does new
roofs and he said I didn't need a new roof, only repair.

He also said that it's one sheet in two of the places and 3 to 5
sheets in the other place. So it would be 7 sheets total repair.

My roof is pitched from 10 feet to 8 feet high in 12 feet of length.

I'm told it's got 3/8 particle board with shingles.

I'm trying to get an approximate cost per/sheet of repair. I'm told
that's how it's priced.

The board right under the roof that is a 1/2 inch by 4 and runs around
the entire house also needs repair in about 20 feet of length.

I've just put out a bid for the repair, and I'm trying to get an idea
of what the cost might be for the entire repair. Just a ballpark idea
so that I know what "window" of price to expect.

Thanks for any help offered.


While you need some decking and fascia repairs, the only way to do the job
right it so do the entire roof or it will look like crap when done. Sounds
like you need a better contractor and better advice. If I was a roofer, I'd
refuse to do a patch on something that needs 7 sheets unless I did a
complete tear-off for proper inspection.

Also, I've never heard of particle board on a roof. OSB, plywood or solid
wood is OK,


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"Merlin" wrote in message
...
I have a shingle roof that has 3 areas of repair needed. A roofing
contractor looked at it and told me this. His company only does new
roofs and he said I didn't need a new roof, only repair.

He also said that it's one sheet in two of the places and 3 to 5
sheets in the other place. So it would be 7 sheets total repair.

My roof is pitched from 10 feet to 8 feet high in 12 feet of length.

I'm told it's got 3/8 particle board with shingles.

I'm trying to get an approximate cost per/sheet of repair. I'm told
that's how it's priced.

The board right under the roof that is a 1/2 inch by 4 and runs around
the entire house also needs repair in about 20 feet of length.

I've just put out a bid for the repair, and I'm trying to get an idea
of what the cost might be for the entire repair. Just a ballpark idea
so that I know what "window" of price to expect.

Thanks for any help offered.


It should cost between $38 and $134,284.39 for the whole job, and that
should include cleanup. I'm sorry that I have given you such a broad price
range, but you have given a very vague description.

Call three reputable contractors in your area. Get bids. Pick one. Have
it done right, and have it done all at once. All your tires are the same
age. You can have them changed one at a time, or you can start with a new
set. Which one would be the best?

Steve




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On Mar 1, 9:04�am, Merlin wrote:
I have a shingle roof that has 3 areas of repair needed. A roofing
contractor looked at it and told me this. His company only does new
roofs and he said I didn't need a new roof, only repair.


I bet you refused the idea of a new roof and this contractor wanted to
get out of there.

with florida weathers sun and water you need the best roof you can
get, not a patchwork of repairs. sorry with so much bad you really
need a new roof
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On Mar 1, 8:47*am, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:

snip


Also, I've never heard of particle board on a roof. *OSB, plywood or solid
wood is OK,


Isn't OSB 'oriented strand board' ? In other words, large wood
particles and resin matrix. So small wood particles (sawdust) and
resin are MDF or something...very confusing. G

Joe
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on 3/1/2008 1:07 PM Joe said the following:
On Mar 1, 8:47 am, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


snip



Also, I've never heard of particle board on a roof. OSB, plywood or solid
wood is OK,


Isn't OSB 'oriented strand board' ? In other words, large wood
particles and resin matrix. So small wood particles (sawdust) and
resin are MDF or something...very confusing. G

Joe


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...SBMDFPart.html

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
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Joe wrote:

On Mar 1, 8:47 am, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


snip



Also, I've never heard of particle board on a roof. OSB, plywood or solid
wood is OK,



Isn't OSB 'oriented strand board' ? In other words, large wood
particles and resin matrix. So small wood particles (sawdust) and
resin are MDF or something...very confusing. G

Joe


Who was it that said; MDF is just sawdust held together by
surface tension?

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
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On Sat, 01 Mar 2008 09:04:22 -0500, Merlin wrote:

If I could afford a new roof, I'd have told the first guy to do it.

Thanks. Never mind.


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On Mar 1, 8:50�pm, Merlin wrote:
On Sat, 01 Mar 2008 09:04:22 -0500, Merlin wrote:

If I could afford a new roof, I'd have told the first guy to do it.

Thanks. Never mind.


sorry but extensive patching will just waste your money........

so what specificially is wrong? age of roof, missing shingles active
leaks bad flashing, deck falling apart???

please tell us more so we can try to help.........

there are roofers who charge less.

like just rip off old roof toss debris on ground.

know a fellow on a budget, he laid tarps on ground collected all the
debris, pilled them up to look like a compost pile, put them out one
bag at a time, took over 2 years going out as regular trash.
inconvenient but saved him over 600 bucks.......

sounds like you need to think out of the box the box isnt your friend.

i heard of people getting a roomate to help pay for critical home
repairs.

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I've not ever heard of roofing being priced, bid, or done by the
sheet. By the square (100 square feet) is normal. You may need
to replace several sheets of decking. I've never heard of
particle board of any type used on a roof. OSB (oriented strand
board) that is 7/16 thick is quite common.

You never said what size the house is, but 25 square would handle
many small subdivision houses. 7 are hurt? That's a third to
fourth of the roof, that is a bit beyond a patch.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Merlin" wrote in message
...
I have a shingle roof that has 3 areas of repair needed. A
roofing
contractor looked at it and told me this. His company only does
new
roofs and he said I didn't need a new roof, only repair.

He also said that it's one sheet in two of the places and 3 to 5
sheets in the other place. So it would be 7 sheets total repair.

My roof is pitched from 10 feet to 8 feet high in 12 feet of
length.

I'm told it's got 3/8 particle board with shingles.

I'm trying to get an approximate cost per/sheet of repair. I'm
told
that's how it's priced.

The board right under the roof that is a 1/2 inch by 4 and runs
around
the entire house also needs repair in about 20 feet of length.

I've just put out a bid for the repair, and I'm trying to get an
idea
of what the cost might be for the entire repair. Just a ballpark
idea
so that I know what "window" of price to expect.

Thanks for any help offered.



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DanG wrote:
I've not ever heard of roofing being priced, bid, or done by the
sheet. By the square (100 square feet) is normal. You may need
to replace several sheets of decking. I've never heard of
particle board of any type used on a roof. OSB (oriented strand
board) that is 7/16 thick is quite common.


When I had my roof replaced, I kept getting bids because
every salesman said my roof had one layer on it and was
between 30 and 34 squares. Not one of them walked the
roof.

I took the first bid some someon who walked the roof,
knew it was 26 squares, and it needed to be vented.
Bids ranged from $4,800 to $11,000. The guy who knew
what he was doing was the low bid - but I had figured
it should cost around $5,500.

Salesmen are not roofers.

Dick
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"Merlin" wrote

If I could afford a new roof, I'd have told the first guy to do it.


Merlin, sometimes you have to patch and it's ok as long as the one doing it
does it right. The first fellow who only does 'new roofs' would be a bad
pick for a patch job because he's just not familiar with that sort of work.

For your query on how much per panel, the prices will vary with area and
mine are older data but it was (2001, Norfolk area) 70$ per panel for the
wood and i believe 150$ each to remove old and install new. The thickness
of the wood replacing, has to match the old that will be left on (NOT
OPTIONAL).

Be prepared to need a few more panels than origional estimate because once
they get the tiles off, they may find more. It's *much* cheaper to do it
now if any are even slightly nominal.

I did not have the whole roof replaced because most of it was fine. I had
about as many panels as you say redone, and all the roof tiles. You will
need to have all the tiles done (at least, all the font at the same time,
and all the back at the same time) or it will not look right. That 'look'
may not matter to you much now but come resale time, it's critical. They
need to age and weather down uniformly.

Get estimates and be sure they specify how much cost per panel including the
wood and the labor. Check with local resources to make sure the company has
been reliably in business doing roof work for at least 5 years, 10 is
better. Make sure they fully insure their workers because if not, they can
have one of them get hurt then the worker can sue YOU for letting them work
uninsured (silly I know, but it happens and can cost you your home).

The cheapest bidder, is often cheapest because his work is cheapest. Now,
I'll often go 'cheap' but the roof of your house isnt the right spot for
that as it will cost you far more just a few years down the road to fix it.

Best thing is get at least 3 estimates in writing then see your local bank
about a home improvement loan. They can often roll these in with your
household payments to bring the monthly cost down to quite acceptable
limits. That loan's interests BTW is tax deductable so say you pay 500$ in
interest (wont be that much), your taxes will give you back about 100$ of
it.


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"Dick Adams" wrote

I took the first bid some someon who walked the roof,
knew it was 26 squares, and it needed to be vented.
Bids ranged from $4,800 to $11,000. The guy who knew
what he was doing was the low bid - but I had figured
it should cost around $5,500.

Salesmen are not roofers.


Grin, we used the one who 'cost the least' and was a bar buddy, but the
reason why he cost the least was because we contracted several things with
him at the same time. Siding, garage door, etc. Package deal.





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I know some people who couldnt afford a new roof. so they picked the
worst side and had 1/2 replaced the front. home looked good from
street, street side was worse anyway

the back they gooed with roof tar, and some cheap mobile home roof
coating. it looked bad but stopped most of the leaks.

2 or 3 years later they replaced the other side of the roof.

its something to consider when fiancially challenged.


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I know some people who couldnt afford a new roof. so they picked the
worst side and had 1/2 replaced the front. home looked good from
street, street side was worse anyway

the back they gooed with roof tar, and some cheap mobile home roof
coating. it looked bad but stopped most of the leaks.

2 or 3 years later they replaced the other side of the roof.

its something to consider when fiancially challenged.


Thats close to what we did but the back was done first, as it was in worse
shape, then later the front (which was overall in fairly good shape except a
few spots).



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On Mar 2, 1:32�pm, "cshenk" wrote:
I know some people who couldnt afford a new roof. so they picked the
worst side and had 1/2 replaced the front. home looked good from
street, street side was worse anyway


the back they gooed with roof tar, and some cheap mobile home roof
coating. it looked bad but stopped most of the leaks.


2 or 3 years later they replaced the other side of the roof.


its something to consider when fiancially challenged.


Thats close to what we did but the back was done first, as it was in worse
shape, then later the front (which was overall in fairly good shape except a
few spots).


yeah it cuts cost by half.........

often the worst side is the one that gets the most sun... espically in
sunny areas, like the desert south west.

when buying a new roof your better off to go to a white or light
colored roof, shingles last longer summer roof temperatures lower. add
ventilation too
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wrote:
On Mar 2, 1:32�pm, "cshenk" wrote:
I know some people who couldnt afford a new roof. so they picked the
worst side and had 1/2 replaced the front. home looked good from
street, street side was worse anyway
the back they gooed with roof tar, and some cheap mobile home roof
coating. it looked bad but stopped most of the leaks.
2 or 3 years later they replaced the other side of the roof.
its something to consider when fiancially challenged.

Thats close to what we did but the back was done first, as it was in worse
shape, then later the front (which was overall in fairly good shape except a
few spots).


yeah it cuts cost by half.........

often the worst side is the one that gets the most sun... espically in
sunny areas, like the desert south west.

when buying a new roof your better off to go to a white or light
colored roof, shingles last longer summer roof temperatures lower. add
ventilation too


Pay now, or pay more later. In a re-roof, most of the cost is labor and
tippage fees for the ripoff material. A typical ranch house roof takes
3-4 days tops. Once the crew and materials are on site and set up, the
time difference from doing half or doing all is not that great, and the
roll-off costs just as much to have spotted. It does NOT cut the costs
by half, and will cost more than a complete re-roof once the other half
gets done in a year or three.

If you don't have the cash on hand, but have some equity, go see your
bank about a home improvement line of credit. For something like a roof,
that helps preserve the value of the security on the main loan, they
will be happy to work with you. 7-8 k is NOTHING to them compared to a
100k+ mortgage.

Besides, life is too short to mess with this more than once per house.

aem sends...
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On Mar 1, 1:28*pm, Robert Allison wrote:

snip


Who was it that said; *MDF is just sawdust held together by
surface tension?

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX


Neat! LOL...
Other scientists might even go so far as to say it's Van Der Waals
forces...G

Joe


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Thank you all for your replies.

The roof is in good shape in all but the areas I've mentioned. In
those areas, the damage was done by water coming in from the edge. The
fascia was loose in these areas and let water in under the shingles.

The shingles are not the problem as the water attacked the wood under
them, not the shingles.

The roofing guy who got up on the roof did a very thorough inspection
and said that the damage in two of the three areas was minimal but
would probably need an entire panel replaced on each. The third area
was the worst and had obviously been leaking for years. The leak went
from the top to the inside of a screened in porch area. In that area,
he said the decking and some damaged supports would have to be
replaced.

The guy was very professional, very thorough and took his time. He was
also inspecting it with the possibility of replacing the entire roof.

As to the appearance, I couldn't care less. I'm already old and live
on a fixed income and I'll die in this house. If the neighbors don't
like the way it looks when I'm done, they can pay for better repairs.
Since I'm paying for it, I'll do what I can with what I have.

My home loan is as high as it will ever be. I'm not adding anything to
it. I can't afford to. I'll check with the bank to see what the
replacement of the entire roof would cost me on a roll-in, but I can't
afford much of a difference.

I'll have 5 different roofers come out and estimate the job with no
removal of debris. I can do that. I'm old and slow, but I can pick up
the trash and stack it. Then I can put out a couple of sacks a week
until it's gone.

My property is fenced with a 8 foot privacy fence and is gated with
the same. No one can see anything below the roof.




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On Mar 2, 5:26*pm, Merlin wrote:
Thank you all for your replies.

Theroofis in good shape in all but the areas I've mentioned. In
those areas, the damage was done by water coming in from the edge. The
fascia was loose in these areas and let water in under the shingles.

The shingles are not the problem as the water attacked the wood under
them, not the shingles.

The roofing guy who got up on theroofdid a very thorough inspection
and said that the damage in two of the three areas was minimal but
would probably need an entire panel replaced on each. The third area
was the worst and had obviously been leaking for years. The leak went
from the top to the inside of a screened in porch area. In that area,
he said the decking and some damaged supports would have to be
replaced.

The guy was very professional, very thorough and took his time. He was
also inspecting it with the possibility of replacing the entireroof.

As to the appearance, I couldn't care less. I'm already old and live
on a fixed income and I'll die in this house. If the neighbors don't
like the way it looks when I'm done, they can pay for better repairs.
Since I'm paying for it, I'll do what I can with what I have.

My home loan is as high as it will ever be. I'm not adding anything to
it. I can't afford to. I'll check with the bank to see what the
replacement of the entireroofwould cost me on a roll-in, but I can't
afford much of a difference.

I'll have 5 different roofers come out and estimate the job with no
removal of debris. I can do that. I'm old and slow, but I can pick up
the trash and stack it. Then I can put out a couple of sacks a week
until it's gone.

My property is fenced with a 8 foot privacy fence and is gated with
the same. No one can see anything below theroof.


try www.therooftech.com
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On Mar 9, 2:38*pm, wrote:
On Mar 2, 5:26*pm, Merlin wrote:





Thank you all for your replies.


Theroofis in good shape in all but the areas I've mentioned. In
those areas, the damage was done by water coming in from the edge. The
fascia was loose in these areas and let water in under the shingles.


The shingles are not theproblemas the water attacked the wood under
them, not the shingles.


Theroofingguy who got up on theroofdid a very thorough inspection
and said that the damage in two of the three areas was minimal but
would probably need an entire panel replaced on each. The third area
was the worst and had obviously been leaking for years. The leak went
from the top to the inside of a screened in porch area. In that area,
he said the decking and some damaged supports would have to be
replaced.


The guy was very professional, very thorough and took his time. He was
also inspecting it with the possibility of replacing the entireroof.


As to the appearance, I couldn't care less. I'm already old and live
on a fixed income and I'll die in this house. If the neighbors don't
like the way it looks when I'm done, they can pay for better repairs.
Since I'm paying for it, I'll do what I can with what I have.


My home loan is as high as it will ever be. I'm not adding anything to
it. I can't afford to. I'll check with the bank to see what the
replacement of the entireroofwould cost me on a roll-in, but I can't
afford much of a difference.


I'll have 5 different roofers come out and estimate the job with no
removal of debris. I can do that. I'm old and slow, but I can pick up
the trash and stack it. Then I can put out a couple of sacks a week
until it's gone.


My property is fenced with a 8 foot privacy fence and is gated with
the same. No one can see anything below theroof.


trywww.therooftech.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Try www.therooftech.com
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As an update, I've received and approved an estimate from a reputable
roofing company in my area for the repair of the roof.

What was found: The only damage is to the edges of the roof on the two
sides and the front. The damage only goes 3 feet in. The remainder of
the roof is very solid and in no need of repair or replacement. The
damage was caused by improperly installed flashing in these areas. The
flashing wasn't sealed to the shingles and allowed rain intrusion that
in turn rotted the wood on the edges.

What will be done: The plywood will be replaced 3 feet in from the
edge of both sides and the front. The flashing will be replaced and
sealed properly as well. The fascia will be replaced in these areas.
Where the metal porch overhang meets the wood house, they are
installing a foam barrier that is made for that application.

Total cost of job $2,000

5 year guarantee on all work.

I'm very happy with this.

Thank you all for your input and advice.

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"Merlin" wrote

Total cost of job $2,000

5 year guarantee on all work.

I'm very happy with this.

Thank you all for your input and advice.


I'm happy you found a good company! Price seems lower than I would have
thought. Are they redoing all the tiles too? Or did you luck up and have
only 1 layer so they can add another this time?

How many layers is allowed varies by area due to weather differences. It's
2 max where I am. When I had mine redone, I already had 2 so had to have
the old removed then replaced.

The really bad one across and down a bit from me just got finished.
45,000$. Man is he sorry he didnt do it 7 years ago when it was just a few
plywood bits and no rafter damage. Another one near it is now having the
same job we had done. Gonna run him about 6,000$ but he has 2 gables and
stuff like that. Not as much wood needing replacement but some.




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On Sat, 15 Mar 2008 10:48:32 -0400, "cshenk" wrote:

I'm happy you found a good company! Price seems lower than I would have
thought. Are they redoing all the tiles too? Or did you luck up and have
only 1 layer so they can add another this time?


The roofer said that the shingles are in great shape and that the 3
layers of them can be reused with no problems. They will reattach them
after replacing the wood. Only two layers are allowed on new
installations now, but if reused, he'll be able to use all 3 layers
without problems.

It's the slow season for roofing in Northern Florida right now, so
maybe that's reflected in the price.

The roofer said they will be in and out in one day. He says this is a
pretty small job for a roofer.
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"Merlin" wrote:

I'm happy you found a good company! Price seems lower than I would have
thought. Are they redoing all the tiles too? Or did you luck up and have
only 1 layer so they can add another this time?


The roofer said that the shingles are in great shape and that the 3
layers of them can be reused with no problems. They will reattach them
after replacing the wood. Only two layers are allowed on new
installations now, but if reused, he'll be able to use all 3 layers
without problems.


I'd be slightly worried at reusing any but with 3 layers, perhaps it is
possible to get 2 workbale ones left. He may have to spot piece some new
material there but if it's a close match, it may not be that obvious.

It's the slow season for roofing in Northern Florida right now, so
maybe that's reflected in the price.

The roofer said they will be in and out in one day. He says this is a
pretty small job for a roofer.


Good! Our job was bigger but done in time so we look great now. I shudder
at what some of the other houses on my block are paying due to delay.


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Default Costs of roof repairs

On Sat, 01 Mar 2008 09:04:22 -0500, Merlin wrote:

I have a shingle roof that has 3 areas of repair needed. A roofing
contractor looked at it and told me this. His company only does new
roofs and he said I didn't need a new roof, only repair.

He also said that it's one sheet in two of the places and 3 to 5
sheets in the other place. So it would be 7 sheets total repair.

My roof is pitched from 10 feet to 8 feet high in 12 feet of length.

I'm told it's got 3/8 particle board with shingles.

I'm trying to get an approximate cost per/sheet of repair. I'm told
that's how it's priced.

The board right under the roof that is a 1/2 inch by 4 and runs around
the entire house also needs repair in about 20 feet of length.

I've just put out a bid for the repair, and I'm trying to get an idea
of what the cost might be for the entire repair. Just a ballpark idea
so that I know what "window" of price to expect.

Thanks for any help offered.


Just an update on the repairs.

They did the job in one long day from 8am to 10pm, Wednesday.

The work was exceptionally well done and will resolve all the
problems.

The total final price was $1,700 USD.

I'm very, very happy with the work.

They ended up using brand new tiles around the 3 foot strip on the two
sides and front, but the manner they used to interweave them with the
old made a very nice looking pattern. I'm proud of them for doing such
a good job at such a reasonable price.

NO MORE LEAKS !!!!

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"Merlin" wrote in message
Just an update on the repairs.

They did the job in one long day from 8am to 10pm, Wednesday.

The work was exceptionally well done and will resolve all the
problems.

The total final price was $1,700 USD.

I'm very, very happy with the work.

They ended up using brand new tiles around the 3 foot strip on the two
sides and front, but the manner they used to interweave them with the
old made a very nice looking pattern. I'm proud of them for doing such
a good job at such a reasonable price.

NO MORE LEAKS !!!!


good for you. Reasonable price for that amount of work, best part is that
it works.


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