Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with what is
"state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps some
of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with what is
"state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps some
of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob



Not gorilla glue. It is good for some things, but not (despite
the ads) the strongest. Go with a yellow wood glue such as
Titebond II. You can even use it for outdoor projects.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

Robert Allison wrote:
Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what is "state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps
some of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob


Not gorilla glue. It is good for some things, but not (despite the ads)
the strongest. Go with a yellow wood glue such as Titebond II. You can
even use it for outdoor projects.

I agree. Gorilla glue is a polyurethane and polyurethanes do not stand
up as well as the old wood glue or epoxy.

Titebond 2. If it's not going to be outside don't waste your money on
Titebond 3.

On Feb 19, 12:00*pm, "Robert11" wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with what is
"state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps some
of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

It may not make any difference in what is suggested, but...

-- Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

6 inches by what? Along which surface will you be gluing - edge, face
or end?

-- Important that they do not come apart.
-- Also, no screws or nail backup.

What about biscuits? Much stronger than glue alone.

On Feb 19, 11:00*am, "Robert11" wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with what is
"state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

snip

You may not like it, but slow cure epoxies rule the roost for never
fail adhesives. It's not all that painful to mix equal parts of A and
Band and stir. That's why some of the better formulations are sold in
boat shops. I've also used Titebond II and III and like the II stuff
better. There is an equivalent Elmers out there that seems as good as
Titebond, check it out. But if your project is mission critical (love
those buzz words!) by all means use an epoxy.

Joe

Joe

Yeah, there was a glue comparison in a woodworking magazine recently
and it concluded that yellow Elmers was pretty damn good.

Mike

On Feb 19, 3:00*pm, Joe wrote:
On Feb 19, 11:00*am, "Robert11" wrote:





Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with what is
"state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.
snip

You may not like it, but slow cure epoxies rule the roost for never
fail adhesives. It's not all that painful to mix equal parts of A and
Band and stir. That's why some of the better formulations are sold in
boat shops. I've also used Titebond II and III and like the II stuff
better. There is an equivalent Elmers out there that seems as good as
Titebond, check it out. *But if your project is mission critical (love
those buzz words!) by all means use an epoxy.

Joe

Joe- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

West Systems epoxies and fillers are pretty d*mn good.
Available at most marine stores.

Joe wrote in
:

On Feb 19, 11:00*am, "Robert11" wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what
is
"state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

snip

You may not like it, but slow cure epoxies rule the roost for never
fail adhesives. It's not all that painful to mix equal parts of A and
Band and stir. That's why some of the better formulations are sold in
boat shops. I've also used Titebond II and III and like the II stuff
better. There is an equivalent Elmers out there that seems as good as
Titebond, check it out. But if your project is mission critical (love
those buzz words!) by all means use an epoxy.

Joe

Joe


West System is NOT "equal parts of A and B",they have mix ratios from 2:1
to 5:1.

System Three and RAKA are both 2:1 ratios(epoxy:hardener)

Be sure to read the instructinos for the brand of epoxy you use.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Robert11" wrote in message
. ..
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with what
is "state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?


Any of the yellow wood glues will hold stronger than the wood itself.
Titebond, Borden's, whatever brand your store has will work. Spending more
money won't get you a better glue joint.

Be sure you have a good mating surface and clamp the pieces until the glue
dries.

On Feb 19, 6:13*pm, Jim Yanik wrote:
Joe wrote :





On Feb 19, 11:00*am, "Robert11" wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what
is
"state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

snip

You may not like it, but slow cure epoxies rule the roost for never
fail adhesives. It's not all that painful to mix equal parts of A and
Band and stir. That's why some of the better formulations are sold in
boat shops. I've also used Titebond II and III and like the II stuff
better. There is an equivalent Elmers out there that seems as good as
Titebond, check it out. *But if your project is mission critical (love
those buzz words!) by all means use an epoxy.

Joe

Joe

West System is NOT "equal parts of A and B",they have mix ratios from 2:1
to 5:1.

System Three and RAKA are both 2:1 ratios(epoxy:hardener)

Be sure to read the instructinos for the brand of epoxy you use.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Never meant to imply that West Systems uses a 1:1 ratio.

I was responding to "That's why some of the better formulations are
sold in boat shops." West Systems is, in my opinion, one of the better
formulations.

"Frank" frankdotlogullo@comcastperiodnet wrote in message
. ..
Robert Allison wrote:
Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what is "state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps
some of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob


Not gorilla glue. It is good for some things, but not (despite the ads)
the strongest. Go with a yellow wood glue such as Titebond II. You can
even use it for outdoor projects.

I agree. Gorilla glue is a polyurethane and polyurethanes do not stand up
as well as the old wood glue or epoxy.

And the damn stuff grows and expands so much it either blows out the dowels,
or you end up with a lot of gloppy globs you have to trim off. I'm sure
it's good for something, just haven't found it yet. Spendy, too.

Steve

On Feb 19, 7:26 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Feb 19, 6:13 pm, Jim Yanik wrote:

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what
is
"state of the art' these days.

Elmers

On Feb 19, 10:43*pm, "SteveB" wrote:
"Frank" frankdotlogullo@comcastperiodnet wrote in message

. ..





Robert Allison wrote:
Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what is "state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps
some of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Not gorilla glue. *It is good for some things, but not (despite the ads)
the strongest. *Go with a yellow wood glue such as Titebond II. *You can
even use it for outdoor projects.

I agree. *Gorilla glue is a polyurethane and polyurethanes do not stand up
as well as the old wood glue or epoxy.

And the damn stuff grows and expands so much it either blows out the dowels,
or you end up with a lot of gloppy globs you have to trim off. *I'm sure
it's good for something, just haven't found it yet. *Spendy, too.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll agree that epoxy is not the correct solution to every glue-up
situation. In fact, I've never used it for wood.

However, the very "gloppy globs" property that you mentioned is
exactly what gives of epoxy (with the correct weight of fillers) some
of its allure. It can be poured, molded, shaped and used to fill (even
bridge) gaps between dissimilar materials, something you can't do with
many other adhesives. It results in a substance that will be rock hard
when cured. Use it to lay up fiberglass and you can make an extremely
stiff assembly, shaped and sized to fit your application.

Until I worked on a project that required all of the above uses of
epoxy, I thought it was nothing more than an extremely strong glue.
Once I had the opportunity to see how versatile a product it really
was, I found more and more applications where it fit the bill
perfectly.

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 12:00:35 -0500, "Robert11"
wrote:

Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with what is
"state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps some
of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob


Elmers Woodworking glue or Titebond Woodworking glue. These glues
are yellow in color. For best results clamp overnight. Don't expect
the glue (or any glue for that matter) to hold for end-to-end butt
joints.

On Feb 20, 12:38*pm, "SteveB" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...
On Feb 19, 10:43 pm, "SteveB" wrote:





"Frank" frankdotlogullo@comcastperiodnet wrote in message

...

Robert Allison wrote:
Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what is "state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps
some of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Not gorilla glue. It is good for some things, but not (despite the ads)
the strongest. Go with a yellow wood glue such as Titebond II. You can
even use it for outdoor projects.

I agree. Gorilla glue is a polyurethane and polyurethanes do not stand
up
as well as the old wood glue or epoxy.

And the damn stuff grows and expands so much it either blows out the
dowels,
or you end up with a lot of gloppy globs you have to trim off. I'm sure
it's good for something, just haven't found it yet. Spendy, too.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll agree that epoxy is not the correct solution to every glue-up
situation. In fact, I've never used it for wood.

However, the very "gloppy globs" property that you mentioned is
exactly what gives of epoxy (with the correct weight of fillers) some
of its allure. It can be poured, molded, shaped and used to fill (even
bridge) gaps between dissimilar materials, something you can't do with
many other adhesives. It results in a substance that will be rock hard
when cured. Use it to lay up fiberglass and you can make an extremely
stiff assembly, shaped and sized to fit your application.

Until I worked on a project that required all of the above uses of
epoxy, I thought it was nothing more than an extremely strong glue.
Once I had the opportunity to see how versatile a product it really
was, I found more and more applications where it fit the bill
perfectly.

And I reply:

Yabbut, I think we're talking about two different things. *I agree with your
statements about epoxy. *I would be lost without my JB Weld and JB Fix.
However, I find Gorilla Glue about as unpredictable as that shoot in foam
stuff regarding unknown amounts of expansion and what it's going to look
like dry. *Epoxies are pretty much WYSIWYG.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My error!

Your post came right after a couple of posts regarding epoxy and I
thought you were responding to one of those. Now that I've re-read
your comments and applied them to Gorilla glue, I am in full
agreement.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Feb 19, 10:43 pm, "SteveB" wrote:
"Frank" frankdotlogullo@comcastperiodnet wrote in message

. ..





Robert Allison wrote:
Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what is "state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps
some of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Not gorilla glue. It is good for some things, but not (despite the ads)
the strongest. Go with a yellow wood glue such as Titebond II. You can
even use it for outdoor projects.

I agree. Gorilla glue is a polyurethane and polyurethanes do not stand
up
as well as the old wood glue or epoxy.

And the damn stuff grows and expands so much it either blows out the
dowels,
or you end up with a lot of gloppy globs you have to trim off. I'm sure
it's good for something, just haven't found it yet. Spendy, too.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll agree that epoxy is not the correct solution to every glue-up
situation. In fact, I've never used it for wood.

However, the very "gloppy globs" property that you mentioned is
exactly what gives of epoxy (with the correct weight of fillers) some
of its allure. It can be poured, molded, shaped and used to fill (even
bridge) gaps between dissimilar materials, something you can't do with
many other adhesives. It results in a substance that will be rock hard
when cured. Use it to lay up fiberglass and you can make an extremely
stiff assembly, shaped and sized to fit your application.

Until I worked on a project that required all of the above uses of
epoxy, I thought it was nothing more than an extremely strong glue.
Once I had the opportunity to see how versatile a product it really
was, I found more and more applications where it fit the bill
perfectly.


And I reply:

Yabbut, I think we're talking about two different things. I agree with your
statements about epoxy. I would be lost without my JB Weld and JB Fix.
However, I find Gorilla Glue about as unpredictable as that shoot in foam
stuff regarding unknown amounts of expansion and what it's going to look
like dry. Epoxies are pretty much WYSIWYG.

Steve

On Feb 19, 5:13*pm, Jim Yanik wrote:
Joe wrote :



On Feb 19, 11:00*am, "Robert11" wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what
is
"state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

snip

You may not like it, but slow cure epoxies rule the roost for never
fail adhesives. It's not all that painful to mix equal parts of A and
Band and stir. That's why some of the better formulations are sold in
boat shops. I've also used Titebond II and III and like the II stuff
better. There is an equivalent Elmers out there that seems as good as
Titebond, check it out. *But if your project is mission critical (love
those buzz words!) by all means use an epoxy.

Joe

Joe

West System is NOT "equal parts of A and B",they have mix ratios from 2:1
to 5:1.

System Three and RAKA are both 2:1 ratios(epoxy:hardener)

Be sure to read the instructinos for the brand of epoxy you use.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

JIm,
You are correct regarding epoxy-hardener ratios in the common
commercial systems. However, in my work
I use the unmodified industrial resins and hardeners, and the ratios
are indeed 1 to 1 for chosen systems. A favorite resin is Epon 826
with Versamid 140 hardener. Much slower cure time than the commercial
systems, but outstanding properties. Downside for some would be the
higher price, but in typical wood working projects it isn't a factor
IMO. One of these days I plan to try out some of the commercial guys
stuff and see how it compares to my home brew.

Joe

On Feb 20, 12:03*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Feb 20, 12:38*pm, "SteveB" wrote:





"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...
On Feb 19, 10:43 pm, "SteveB" wrote:

"Frank" frankdotlogullo@comcastperiodnet wrote in message

...

Robert Allison wrote:
Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what is "state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps
some of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Not gorilla glue. It is good for some things, but not (despite the ads)
the strongest. Go with a yellow wood glue such as Titebond II. You can
even use it for outdoor projects.

I agree. Gorilla glue is a polyurethane and polyurethanes do not stand
up
as well as the old wood glue or epoxy.

And the damn stuff grows and expands so much it either blows out the
dowels,
or you end up with a lot of gloppy globs you have to trim off. I'm sure
it's good for something, just haven't found it yet. Spendy, too.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll agree that epoxy is not the correct solution to every glue-up
situation. In fact, I've never used it for wood.

However, the very "gloppy globs" property that you mentioned is
exactly what gives of epoxy (with the correct weight of fillers) some
of its allure. It can be poured, molded, shaped and used to fill (even
bridge) gaps between dissimilar materials, something you can't do with
many other adhesives. It results in a substance that will be rock hard
when cured. Use it to lay up fiberglass and you can make an extremely
stiff assembly, shaped and sized to fit your application.

Until I worked on a project that required all of the above uses of
epoxy, I thought it was nothing more than an extremely strong glue.
Once I had the opportunity to see how versatile a product it really
was, I found more and more applications where it fit the bill
perfectly.

And I reply:

Yabbut, I think we're talking about two different things. *I agree with your
statements about epoxy. *I would be lost without my JB Weld and JB Fix..
However, I find Gorilla Glue about as unpredictable as that shoot in foam
stuff regarding unknown amounts of expansion and what it's going to look
like dry. *Epoxies are pretty much WYSIWYG.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My error!

Your post came right after a couple of posts regarding epoxy and I
thought you were responding to one of those. *Now that I've re-read
your comments and applied them to Gorilla glue, I am in full
agreement.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I did find one good use for Gorilla Glue in repairing a tear in the
nylon fabric of a hunting boot.

On Feb 20, 3:31*pm, Frank wrote:
On Feb 20, 12:03*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Feb 20, 12:38*pm, "SteveB" wrote:

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

....
On Feb 19, 10:43 pm, "SteveB" wrote:

"Frank" frankdotlogullo@comcastperiodnet wrote in message

...

Robert Allison wrote:
Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what is "state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps
some of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Not gorilla glue. It is good for some things, but not (despite the ads)
the strongest. Go with a yellow wood glue such as Titebond II. You can
even use it for outdoor projects.

I agree. Gorilla glue is a polyurethane and polyurethanes do not stand
up
as well as the old wood glue or epoxy.

And the damn stuff grows and expands so much it either blows out the
dowels,
or you end up with a lot of gloppy globs you have to trim off. I'm sure
it's good for something, just haven't found it yet. Spendy, too.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll agree that epoxy is not the correct solution to every glue-up
situation. In fact, I've never used it for wood.

However, the very "gloppy globs" property that you mentioned is
exactly what gives of epoxy (with the correct weight of fillers) some
of its allure. It can be poured, molded, shaped and used to fill (even
bridge) gaps between dissimilar materials, something you can't do with
many other adhesives. It results in a substance that will be rock hard
when cured. Use it to lay up fiberglass and you can make an extremely
stiff assembly, shaped and sized to fit your application.

Until I worked on a project that required all of the above uses of
epoxy, I thought it was nothing more than an extremely strong glue.
Once I had the opportunity to see how versatile a product it really
was, I found more and more applications where it fit the bill
perfectly.

And I reply:

Yabbut, I think we're talking about two different things. *I agree with your
statements about epoxy. *I would be lost without my JB Weld and JB Fix.
However, I find Gorilla Glue about as unpredictable as that shoot in foam
stuff regarding unknown amounts of expansion and what it's going to look
like dry. *Epoxies are pretty much WYSIWYG.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My error!

Your post came right after a couple of posts regarding epoxy and I
thought you were responding to one of those. *Now that I've re-read
your comments and applied them to Gorilla glue, I am in full
agreement.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I did find one good use for Gorilla Glue in repairing a tear in the
nylon fabric of a hunting boot.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The only time I used Gorilla glue was at my parent's house - because
they had some and I didn't have my epoxy kit.

A contractor had left a hole in their tile wall when he removed a
ceramic tile rack. I used the Gorilla glue to secure a piece of wood
to the back of the tiles above and below the hole to create a base to
mount the mounting bracket for a new towel rack. So far (it's been a
year) it's holding fine.

"SteveB" wrote in
:


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
.
.. On Feb 19, 10:43 pm, "SteveB" wrote:
"Frank" frankdotlogullo@comcastperiodnet wrote in message

. ..





Robert Allison wrote:
Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar
with what is "state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and
perhaps some of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Not gorilla glue. It is good for some things, but not (despite the
ads) the strongest. Go with a yellow wood glue such as Titebond
II. You can even use it for outdoor projects.

I agree. Gorilla glue is a polyurethane and polyurethanes do not
stand up
as well as the old wood glue or epoxy.

And the damn stuff grows and expands so much it either blows out the
dowels,
or you end up with a lot of gloppy globs you have to trim off. I'm
sure it's good for something, just haven't found it yet. Spendy, too.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll agree that epoxy is not the correct solution to every glue-up
situation. In fact, I've never used it for wood.

many epoxies do not SOAK INTO wood,and thus provide a poor bond.
Boatbuilding epoxies are much thinner than the usual epoxies you find in
stores(including "hobby epoxies"),and need fillers to be used as glue.But
they perform much better.

I really recommend downloading System Three's Epoxy Book;it's VERY
informative about epoxies. And it's FREE.


West,System Three and RAKA are all excellent boat-building/fiberglassing
epoxies.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Joe wrote in
:

On Feb 19, 5:13*pm, Jim Yanik wrote:
Joe wrote
innews:a837e62c-e404-482b-bf6c-6c51f5a75f13@b2
9g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:



On Feb 19, 11:00*am, "Robert11" wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar
with what
is
"state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

snip

You may not like it, but slow cure epoxies rule the roost for never
fail adhesives. It's not all that painful to mix equal parts of A
and Band and stir. That's why some of the better formulations are
sold in boat shops. I've also used Titebond II and III and like the
II stuff better. There is an equivalent Elmers out there that seems
as good as Titebond, check it out. *But if your project is mission
critical (love

those buzz words!) by all means use an epoxy.

Joe

Joe

West System is NOT "equal parts of A and B",they have mix ratios from
2:1 to 5:1.

System Three and RAKA are both 2:1 ratios(epoxy:hardener)

Be sure to read the instructinos for the brand of epoxy you use.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

JIm,
You are correct regarding epoxy-hardener ratios in the common
commercial systems. However, in my work
I use the unmodified industrial resins and hardeners, and the ratios
are indeed 1 to 1 for chosen systems. A favorite resin is Epon 826
with Versamid 140 hardener. Much slower cure time than the commercial
systems, but outstanding properties. Downside for some would be the
higher price, but in typical wood working projects it isn't a factor
IMO. One of these days I plan to try out some of the commercial guys
stuff and see how it compares to my home brew.

Joe

industrial epoxies may not come in small enough quantities for most home
users. Even Raka only comes in a 1.5 qt kit.

I've had good success using System Three(S3) and RAKA epoxies.
S3 and West are available in many local woodworking and boating stores.
and you can get fast and slow hardeners for them,depending on the temps in
your workplace. you can also buy glass cloth at the boat stores.

the S3 trial kit was a great deal,came with lots of different fillers to
experiment with.RAKA was less expensive than the S3 or West System
epoxies,but I had to mail-order it(Florida). I've played quite a bit with
fiberglassing and gluing large model rocket body tubes and fins.

Curing at higher than room temp is also a good idea,if you can work it
out.It makes for better strength and a faster cure.
I use incandescent lamps or my car's trunk in the hot sun. ;-)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Feb 20, 9:20*pm, Jim Yanik wrote:
Joe wrote :





On Feb 19, 5:13*pm, Jim Yanik wrote:
Joe wrote
innews:a837e62c-e404-482b-bf6c-6c51f5a75f13@b2
9g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:

On Feb 19, 11:00*am, "Robert11" wrote:
Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar
with what
is
"state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

snip

You may not like it, but slow cure epoxies rule the roost for never
fail adhesives. It's not all that painful to mix equal parts of A
and Band and stir. That's why some of the better formulations are
sold in boat shops. I've also used Titebond II and III and like the
II stuff better. There is an equivalent Elmers out there that seems
as good as Titebond, check it out. *But if your project is mission
critical (love

those buzz words!) by all means use an epoxy.

Joe

Joe

West System is NOT "equal parts of A and B",they have mix ratios from
2:1 to 5:1.

System Three and RAKA are both 2:1 ratios(epoxy:hardener)

Be sure to read the instructinos for the brand of epoxy you use.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

JIm,
You are correct regarding epoxy-hardener ratios in the common
commercial systems. However, in my work
I use the unmodified industrial resins and hardeners, and the ratios
are indeed 1 to 1 for chosen systems. A favorite resin is Epon 826
with Versamid 140 hardener. Much slower cure time than the commercial
systems, but outstanding properties. Downside for some would be the
higher price, but in typical wood working projects it isn't a factor
IMO. One of these days I plan to try out some of the commercial guys
stuff and see how it compares to my home brew.

Joe

industrial epoxies may not come in small enough quantities for most home
users. Even Raka only comes in a 1.5 qt kit.

I've had good success using System Three(S3) and RAKA epoxies.
S3 and West are available in many local woodworking and boating stores.
and you can get fast and slow hardeners for them,depending on the temps in
your workplace. you can also buy glass cloth at the boat stores.

the S3 trial kit was a great deal,came with lots of different fillers to
experiment with.RAKA was less expensive than the S3 or West System
epoxies,but I had to mail-order it(Florida). I've played quite a bit with
fiberglassing and gluing large model rocket body tubes and fins.

Curing at higher than room temp is also a good idea,if you can work it
out.It makes for better strength and a faster cure.
I use incandescent lamps or my car's trunk in the hot sun. ;-)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Curing at higher than room temp is also a good idea...I use
incandescent lamps or my car's trunk in the hot sun

For large objects, I've used a black trailer, in the sun, with an
electric heater. (the heater may have been overkill g)

Phisherman wrote in
:

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 12:00:35 -0500, "Robert11"
wrote:

Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what is "state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps
some of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob


Elmers Woodworking glue or Titebond Woodworking glue. These glues
are yellow in color. For best results clamp overnight. Don't expect
the glue (or any glue for that matter) to hold for end-to-end butt
joints.

End-to-end or edge-to-edge should always be pegged, glued and clamped. So,
yes, it does work...when done right.

Phisherman wrote in
:

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 12:00:35 -0500, "Robert11"
wrote:

Hello,

Haven't used wood glues for quite some time, so am not familiar with
what is "state of the art' these days.

Doing a small home project with a few pieces of pine.
Indoor use.
Pieces to be glued are about 6 inches.

Important that they do not come apart.
Also, no screws or nail backup.

What's the "best" to use these days ?

I don't like using epoxies for projects like this.

I saw Gorilla Glue heavily advertised.

Is this what to get, or... ?

Pros and cons would be very appreciated for Gorilla Glue, and perhaps
some of the others would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob


Elmers Woodworking glue or Titebond Woodworking glue. These glues
are yellow in color. For best results clamp overnight. Don't expect
the glue (or any glue for that matter) to hold for end-to-end butt
joints.

End-to-end or edge-to-edge should always be pegged, glued and clamped. So,
yes, it does work...when done right.

Liquid nails..

(N O) wrote in news:10740-47BE85A7-261@storefull-
3276.bay.webtv.net:

Liquid nails..


Pegged, glued and clamped. === Period

Red Green wrote:
(N O) wrote in news:10740-47BE85A7-261@storefull-
3276.bay.webtv.net:

Liquid nails..


Pegged, glued and clamped. === Period

A PVA long-grain edge joint w/ fitting edges will be stronger bond than
the wood itself (that is, the wood will break before the glue line fails
in the majority of cases). Dowels are of some use for alignment
purposes, but of very little necessity for strength.

--

wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:13:19 -0600, dpb wrote:

Red Green wrote:
(N O) wrote in news:10740-47BE85A7-261@storefull-
3276.bay.webtv.net:

Liquid nails..

Pegged, glued and clamped. === Period
A PVA long-grain edge joint w/ fitting edges will be stronger bond than
the wood itself (that is, the wood will break before the glue line fails
in the majority of cases). Dowels are of some use for alignment
purposes, but of very little necessity for strength.

However if you flex the resulting joined boards until "something"
breaks, the break will be right at the glue joint rather than a few
inches away from it. ...

Not at all necessarily...

--

On Feb 22, 8:59*am, Red Green wrote:
(N O) wrote innews:10740-47BE85A7-261@storefull-
3276.bay.webtv.net:

Liquid nails..

Pegged, glued and clamped. === Period


Pegged, glued and clamped. === Comma, or Biscuited, glued and
clamped. === Period

Dowels are great, but biscuits are so much easier to align.

DerbyDad03 wrote in news:d8b94ea6-aaa8-4387-8c76-
:

On Feb 22, 8:59*am, Red Green wrote:
(N O) wrote innews:10740-47BE85A7-261@storefull-
3276.bay.webtv.net:

Liquid nails..

Pegged, glued and clamped. === Period


Pegged, glued and clamped. === Comma, or Biscuited, glued and
clamped. === Period

Dowels are great, but biscuits are so much easier to align.


I've never use biscuts. A long time REAL woodwooker friend of mine ranted
and raved about them when they came out. At that time he said the machine
was real expensive. That was a bit ago. I suppose by now they are
reasonable.

On Feb 22, 7:23*pm, Red Green wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote in news:d8b94ea6-aaa8-4387-8c76-
:

On Feb 22, 8:59*am, Red Green wrote:
(N O) wrote innews:10740-47BE85A7-261@storefull-
3276.bay.webtv.net:

Liquid nails..

Pegged, glued and clamped. === Period

Pegged, glued and clamped. === Comma, or Biscuited, glued and
clamped. === Period

Dowels are great, but biscuits are so much easier to align.

I've never use biscuts. A long time REAL woodwooker friend of mine ranted
and raved about them when they came out. At that time he said the machine
was real expensive. That was a bit ago. I suppose by now they are
reasonable.

You can get 'em for under a $100, although my DeWalt cost a bit more
than that.

I'd be hard pressed to locate my doweling jig and centers if I ever
came up with a reason to use a dowel for joining again.

With the biscuit joiner, alignment is done with a couple of free hand
pencil marks on the pieces to be joined. Butt joints, T-joints, even
45's can be done in a matter of a few short minutes.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Feb 22, 7:23 pm, Red Green wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote in news:d8b94ea6-aaa8-4387-8c76-
:


On Feb 22, 8:59 am, Red Green wrote:

(N O) wrote innews:10740-47BE85A7-261@storefull-
3276.bay.webtv.net:

Liquid nails..

Pegged, glued and clamped. === Period

Pegged, glued and clamped. === Comma, or Biscuited, glued and
clamped. === Period

Dowels are great, but biscuits are so much easier to align.

I've never use biscuts. A long time REAL woodwooker friend of mine ranted
and raved about them when they came out. At that time he said the machine
was real expensive. That was a bit ago. I suppose by now they are
reasonable.


You can get 'em for under a $100, although my DeWalt cost a bit more
than that.

I'd be hard pressed to locate my doweling jig and centers if I ever
came up with a reason to use a dowel for joining again.

With the biscuit joiner, alignment is done with a couple of free hand
pencil marks on the pieces to be joined. Butt joints, T-joints, even
45's can be done in a matter of a few short minutes.

Old fashioned stuff! You don't have a Domino?

(just kidding)

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

On Feb 23, 12:37*am, Robert Allison wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Feb 22, 7:23 pm, Red Green wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote in news:d8b94ea6-aaa8-4387-8c76-
:

On Feb 22, 8:59 am, Red Green wrote:

(N O) wrote innews:10740-47BE85A7-261@storefull-
3276.bay.webtv.net:

Liquid nails..

Pegged, glued and clamped. === Period

Pegged, glued and clamped. === Comma, or Biscuited, glued and
clamped. === Period

Dowels are great, but biscuits are so much easier to align.

I've never use biscuts. A long time REAL woodwooker friend of mine ranted
and raved about them when they came out. At that time he said the machine
was real expensive. That was a bit ago. I suppose by now they are
reasonable.

You can get 'em for under a $100, although my DeWalt cost a bit more
than that.

I'd be hard pressed to locate my doweling jig and centers if I ever
came up with a reason to use a dowel for joining again.

With the biscuit joiner, alignment is done with a couple of free hand
pencil marks on the pieces to be joined. Butt joints, T-joints, even
45's can be done in a matter of a few short minutes.

Old fashioned stuff! *You don't have a Domino?

(just kidding)

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm having a little trouble justifying a Domino to SWMBO. I'm close
though - NOT!

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I'm having a little trouble justifying a Domino to SWMBO. I'm close
though - NOT!

You have to justify a tool? The only question should be "do we have the
money today?" If the answer is "yes" you buy the tool. If the answer is
"no", the second question is "when will we? How about next payday?"

My wife and I discuss major purchases, but we each have out hobbies and
spend what is available for them as we see fit. I can assure you she has not
saved enough money making clothing to justify her tools, same as I cannot
monetarily justify my tool costs with a ROI.

On Feb 23, 10:17*am, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
I'm having a little trouble justifying a Domino to SWMBO. *I'm close
though - NOT!

You have to justify a tool? *The only question should be "do we have the
money today?" * *If the answer is "yes" you buy the tool. *If the answer is
"no", the second question is "when will we? *How about next payday?"

My wife and I discuss major purchases, but we each have out hobbies and
spend what is available for them as we see fit. I can assure you she has not
saved enough money making clothing to justify her tools, same as I cannot
monetarily justify my tool costs with a ROI.

You have to justify a tool?

Yes.

I can assure you she has not saved enough money making clothing to
justify her tools

She doesn't have to.

Boy, that was easy.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message


I'm having a little trouble justifying a Domino to SWMBO. I'm close
though - NOT!


You have to justify a tool? The only question should be "do we have the
money today?" If the answer is "yes" you buy the tool. If the answer is
"no", the second question is "when will we? How about next payday?"

My wife and I discuss major purchases, but we each have out hobbies and
spend what is available for them as we see fit. I can assure you she has not
saved enough money making clothing to justify her tools, same as I cannot
monetarily justify my tool costs with a ROI.



I am a general contractor and I just can't bring myself to pay
1,000.00 for a tool that is basically a biscuit joiner on
steroids. And I don't have to justify it to anyone.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:

On Feb 23, 12:37*am, Robert Allison wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Feb 22, 7:23 pm, Red Green wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote in
news:d8b94ea6-aaa8-4387-8c76-

:

On Feb 22, 8:59 am, Red Green wrote:

(N O) wrote
innews:10740-47BE85A7-261@storefull-

3276.bay.webtv.net:

Liquid nails..

Pegged, glued and clamped. === Period

Pegged, glued and clamped. === Comma, or Biscuited, glued and
clamped. === Period

Dowels are great, but biscuits are so much easier to align.

I've never use biscuts. A long time REAL woodwooker friend of mine
rante
d
and raved about them when they came out. At that time he said the
machin
e
was real expensive. That was a bit ago. I suppose by now they are
reasonable.

You can get 'em for under a $100, although my DeWalt cost a bit
more than that.

I'd be hard pressed to locate my doweling jig and centers if I ever
came up with a reason to use a dowel for joining again.

With the biscuit joiner, alignment is done with a couple of free
hand pencil marks on the pieces to be joined. Butt joints,
T-joints, even 45's can be done in a matter of a few short minutes.

Old fashioned stuff! *You don't have a Domino?

(just kidding)

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm having a little trouble justifying a Domino to SWMBO. I'm close
though - NOT!


SWMBO === acronym doesn't ring a bell but it must have something to do
with wife? :-)

Red Green wrote:

I'm having a little trouble justifying a Domino to SWMBO. I'm close
though - NOT!



SWMBO === acronym doesn't ring a bell but it must have something to do
with wife? :-)

She Who Must Be Obeyed

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX