Currently I have ceramic tile and my feet hurt; I am certain I'm
developing heal spurs because of walking without shoes on this solid
tile that is afixed to cement below (house is right on the slab-no
subflooring;thank you cambridge homes- frickin morons)

To add some bounce to the floor but keep it resitant from spills and
stains, what options do i have?

Wood:
Wood is susceptable to water. Maybe less if I finish it with one
thick layer of polyurathane, but reasonable to walk on

Laminate wood (pergo)
Laminate is even more so acceptable by design. The water will go right
in between each board. Can be very comfortable in floating floor
design

Cork
Cork is supposed to be really comfortable to walk on, good insulator,
but what happens if I spill a glass of water (will I end up with a
speed bump because it absorbs the water?

Vinal:
Durable, but not much of a cushion. I would almost have to create a
some kind of subfloor to make it more comfortable to walk on.

C_kubie

It might be easier/cheaper to find a good pair of cushioned shoes. We have
two rooms carpeted over concrete and my slippers are much better than shoes
for that "cushy" feeling on the feet.
--
Ron
Port Dover Ontario
"c_kubie" wrote in message
om...
Currently I have ceramic tile and my feet hurt; I am certain I'm
developing heal spurs because of walking without shoes on this solid
tile that is afixed to cement below (house is right on the slab-no
subflooring;thank you cambridge homes- frickin morons)

To add some bounce to the floor but keep it resitant from spills and
stains, what options do i have?

Wood:
Wood is susceptable to water. Maybe less if I finish it with one
thick layer of polyurathane, but reasonable to walk on

Laminate wood (pergo)
Laminate is even more so acceptable by design. The water will go right
in between each board. Can be very comfortable in floating floor
design

Cork
Cork is supposed to be really comfortable to walk on, good insulator,
but what happens if I spill a glass of water (will I end up with a
speed bump because it absorbs the water?

Vinal:
Durable, but not much of a cushion. I would almost have to create a
some kind of subfloor to make it more comfortable to walk on.

C_kubie

It might be easier/cheaper to find a good pair of cushioned shoes. We have
two rooms carpeted over concrete and my slippers are much better than shoes
for that "cushy" feeling on the feet.
--
Ron
Port Dover Ontario
"c_kubie" wrote in message
om...
Currently I have ceramic tile and my feet hurt; I am certain I'm
developing heal spurs because of walking without shoes on this solid
tile that is afixed to cement below (house is right on the slab-no
subflooring;thank you cambridge homes- frickin morons)

To add some bounce to the floor but keep it resitant from spills and
stains, what options do i have?

Wood:
Wood is susceptable to water. Maybe less if I finish it with one
thick layer of polyurathane, but reasonable to walk on

Laminate wood (pergo)
Laminate is even more so acceptable by design. The water will go right
in between each board. Can be very comfortable in floating floor
design

Cork
Cork is supposed to be really comfortable to walk on, good insulator,
but what happens if I spill a glass of water (will I end up with a
speed bump because it absorbs the water?

Vinal:
Durable, but not much of a cushion. I would almost have to create a
some kind of subfloor to make it more comfortable to walk on.

C_kubie

c_kubie wrote:
Currently I have ceramic tile and my feet hurt; I am certain I'm
developing heal spurs because of walking without shoes on this solid
tile that is afixed to cement below (house is right on the slab-no
subflooring;thank you cambridge homes- frickin morons)

To add some bounce to the floor but keep it resitant from spills and
stains, what options do i have?


What you put on the floor has nothing to do with heel spurs. See a good
foot doctor.

c_kubie wrote:
Currently I have ceramic tile and my feet hurt; I am certain I'm
developing heal spurs because of walking without shoes on this solid
tile that is afixed to cement below (house is right on the slab-no
subflooring;thank you cambridge homes- frickin morons)

To add some bounce to the floor but keep it resitant from spills and
stains, what options do i have?


What you put on the floor has nothing to do with heel spurs. See a good
foot doctor.

c_kubie wrote:
Currently I have ceramic tile and my feet hurt; I am certain I'm
developing heal spurs because of walking without shoes on this solid
tile that is afixed to cement below (house is right on the slab-no
subflooring;thank you cambridge homes- frickin morons)

To add some bounce to the floor but keep it resitant from spills and
stains, what options do i have?

Wouldn't be a lot less expensive and a lot less hassle just to
wear some shoes? Perhaps something easy to slip on and off with
lots of cushion like "flip-flops" would work while in the kitchen.

Michael

c_kubie wrote:
Currently I have ceramic tile and my feet hurt; I am certain I'm
developing heal spurs because of walking without shoes on this solid
tile that is afixed to cement below (house is right on the slab-no
subflooring;thank you cambridge homes- frickin morons)

To add some bounce to the floor but keep it resitant from spills and
stains, what options do i have?

Wouldn't be a lot less expensive and a lot less hassle just to
wear some shoes? Perhaps something easy to slip on and off with
lots of cushion like "flip-flops" would work while in the kitchen.

Michael

"c_kubie" wrote in message
om...
Currently I have ceramic tile and my feet hurt; I am certain I'm
developing heal spurs because of walking without shoes on this solid
tile that is afixed to cement below (house is right on the slab-no
subflooring;thank you cambridge homes- frickin morons)

To add some bounce to the floor but keep it resitant from spills and
stains, what options do i have?

Wood:
Wood is susceptable to water. Maybe less if I finish it with one
thick layer of polyurathane, but reasonable to walk on


great for kitchens.
3 coats would be minimum for durability though.




Laminate wood (pergo)
Laminate is even more so acceptable by design. The water will go right
in between each board. Can be very comfortable in floating floor
design


don't care for the crap!
wouldn't even put it in my dog house.



Cork
Cork is supposed to be really comfortable to walk on, good insulator,
but what happens if I spill a glass of water (will I end up with a
speed bump because it absorbs the water?


this is an exceptional choice for a kitchen floor and very durable.



Vinal:
Durable, but not much of a cushion. I would almost have to create a
some kind of subfloor to make it more comfortable to walk on.

C_kubie


some vinyl is very durable
and makes a nice floor if your kitchen is not too wide (so there are no
seams)
seams ruin a vinyl floor.

Final Comment:
in your current situation I would prefer cork (they also can be glued to the
concrete).

"c_kubie" wrote in message
om...
Currently I have ceramic tile and my feet hurt; I am certain I'm
developing heal spurs because of walking without shoes on this solid
tile that is afixed to cement below (house is right on the slab-no
subflooring;thank you cambridge homes- frickin morons)

To add some bounce to the floor but keep it resitant from spills and
stains, what options do i have?

Wood:
Wood is susceptable to water. Maybe less if I finish it with one
thick layer of polyurathane, but reasonable to walk on


great for kitchens.
3 coats would be minimum for durability though.




Laminate wood (pergo)
Laminate is even more so acceptable by design. The water will go right
in between each board. Can be very comfortable in floating floor
design


don't care for the crap!
wouldn't even put it in my dog house.



Cork
Cork is supposed to be really comfortable to walk on, good insulator,
but what happens if I spill a glass of water (will I end up with a
speed bump because it absorbs the water?


this is an exceptional choice for a kitchen floor and very durable.



Vinal:
Durable, but not much of a cushion. I would almost have to create a
some kind of subfloor to make it more comfortable to walk on.

C_kubie


some vinyl is very durable
and makes a nice floor if your kitchen is not too wide (so there are no
seams)
seams ruin a vinyl floor.

Final Comment:
in your current situation I would prefer cork (they also can be glued to the
concrete).

biary bill is a retard! trust me dial up hacker
On Tue, 02 Dec 2003
16:05:03 +0000, BinaryBillTheSailor wrote:

On 2 Dec 2003 07:13:14 -0800, (c_kubie) wrote:

Currently I have ceramic tile and my feet hurt; I am certain I'm
developing heal spurs because of walking without shoes on this solid
tile that is afixed to cement below (house is right on the slab-no
subflooring;thank you cambridge homes- frickin morons)

To add some bounce to the floor but keep it resitant from spills and
stains, what options do i have?


Cork
Cork is supposed to be really comfortable to walk on, good insulator,
but what happens if I spill a glass of water (will I end up with a
speed bump because it absorbs the water?


Cork flooring is extremely durable, and has no special problems with
water - it's basically water proof - and even more so after being
sealed, finished and waxed. You'll also like the fact that when you
drop a dish or a glass, it bounces!

BB

Cork does look like the best way to go.

But with all the underlayment optionns, then the flooring would go

1. finish Cork flooring ($3 - $5 sq/ft)
2 3mm or 5mm cork underlayment (.50 - $1 sq/ft)
3 moisure barrier film ??

And this stuff isnt cheap either.
Is online stores cheaper?
Or should I look for certain stores (located in NW suburbs of IL)

C_kubie

1. finish Cork flooring ($3 - $5 sq/ft)

We're putting in a floating click together cork floor. It was CDN$5.75
/sq ft at Home Depot for the pattern we wanted. Rona (don't know if
there is Rona in the U.S.) also carries cork now the same price range.
This is about US$3.50-$4 per sq ft.

2 3mm or 5mm cork underlayment (.50 - $1 sq/ft)

There is no underlayment involved for our brand of flooring (Natur by
Quickstyle), unless you install it on below grade concrete which
requires a vapour barrier. The flooring can go on right top of ceramic
tile, lino, vinyl flooring, plywood subfloor, etc.

3 moisure barrier film ??

Like I said above, no moisture barrier is required unless you are
installing directly on below grade concrete.

Hope this helps.

blue wrote in message ...
1. finish Cork flooring ($3 - $5 sq/ft)

We're putting in a floating click together cork floor. It was CDN$5.75
/sq ft at Home Depot for the pattern we wanted. Rona (don't know if
there is Rona in the U.S.) also carries cork now the same price range.
This is about US$3.50-$4 per sq ft.

2 3mm or 5mm cork underlayment (.50 - $1 sq/ft)

There is no underlayment involved for our brand of flooring (Natur by
Quickstyle), unless you install it on below grade concrete which
requires a vapour barrier. The flooring can go on right top of ceramic
tile, lino, vinyl flooring, plywood subfloor, etc.

3 moisure barrier film ??

Like I said above, no moisture barrier is required unless you are
installing directly on below grade concrete.

Hope this helps.

I'm right on a slab and i am above grade, but i dont trust the
concrete. It is probably a waste but for $30 for 200sq/ft.. I spend
it for piece of mind

Also, I was reading that cork may crack if installed above heating
ducts in cement floor/subfoor. Cracks can install when over 84
degrees.

http://www.diyflooring.com/inst_165/installation.html

very last line on the install instructions..

Anyone ever heard of this?

c_kubie

I'm right on a slab and i am above grade, but i dont trust the
concrete. It is probably a waste but for $30 for 200sq/ft.. I spend
it for piece of mind

In your first post it just seemed like you were concerned about the
price. If $30 is in your budget, go for it.

Also, I was reading that cork may crack if installed above heating
ducts in cement floor/subfoor. Cracks can install when over 84
degrees.

http://www.diyflooring.com/inst_165/installation.html

Well it doesn't say above heating ducts, it says if you have under floor
heating. From the web site:

"If the room in which the panels are to be installed has under floor
heating, the surface must not exceed 82.4 degrees. Under-floor heating
can lead to the formation of cracks in the cork during long heating
periods."

Thus if you don't have under floor heating you don't have to worry about
it. If you do, don't exceed that temperature. That's 28 degrees Celsius
and I read on another site that 26 degrees Celsius is the usual
temperature of underfloor heating.

It's possible it also depends on the cork manufacturer. If you have
underfloor heating check with the cork's manufacturer before you
purchase it to verify the maximum temperature it can withstand.

very last line on the install instructions..

Anyone ever heard of this?

c_kubie

I just read the installation instructions on our cork and I should make
a correction. Ours say that you should put a 6-8 mil vapour barrier over
ANY concrete whether you are below or on grade. In fact, if you don't,
your warranty is void. Sorry for the misinformation, I had previously
thought it was only if you are below grade.

Also, our flooring also has the warning about underfloor heating above
28 degrees Celsius. It also says though that keeping it at that
temperature would be quite uncomfortable due to the heat maintenance
properties of the cork.

blue wrote:
I'm right on a slab and i am above grade, but i dont trust the
concrete. It is probably a waste but for $30 for 200sq/ft.. I spend
it for piece of mind


In your first post it just seemed like you were concerned about the
price. If $30 is in your budget, go for it.


Also, I was reading that cork may crack if installed above heating
ducts in cement floor/subfoor. Cracks can install when over 84
degrees.

http://www.diyflooring.com/inst_165/installation.html


Well it doesn't say above heating ducts, it says if you have under floor
heating. From the web site:

"If the room in which the panels are to be installed has under floor
heating, the surface must not exceed 82.4 degrees. Under-floor heating
can lead to the formation of cracks in the cork during long heating
periods."

Thus if you don't have under floor heating you don't have to worry about
it. If you do, don't exceed that temperature. That's 28 degrees Celsius
and I read on another site that 26 degrees Celsius is the usual
temperature of underfloor heating.

It's possible it also depends on the cork manufacturer. If you have
underfloor heating check with the cork's manufacturer before you
purchase it to verify the maximum temperature it can withstand.

very last line on the install instructions..

Anyone ever heard of this?

c_kubie