I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. But then I
read on some tutorial online that MIG was not good for painted or
rusted surfaces- and most of what I'll be welding will probably be
both.

So-- do I switch gears and look at a different setup- or get used to
using a wire brush?

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose a
welder- and then how to use it?


[Suggestions of websites- forums- and Usenet groups appreciated.]

Thanks-
Jim

Probably the least expensive and most useful setup would be a stick welding
rig like Lincoln AC-225. you'll probably need a cutting torch as well, if
you plan to fabricate anything. Any how to welding book will give you the
basics, then you just have to practice the various types of welds and
positions. Once you get good at it, if you have the need, you can spend for
shielded arc and specialty equipment



"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. But then I
read on some tutorial online that MIG was not good for painted or
rusted surfaces- and most of what I'll be welding will probably be
both.

So-- do I switch gears and look at a different setup- or get used to
using a wire brush?

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose a
welder- and then how to use it?


[Suggestions of websites- forums- and Usenet groups appreciated.]

Thanks-
Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. ...

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose a
welder- and then how to use it?
....

No specific title. Anybody can learn to weld, the question is how
quickly and well...

What I would recommend that's pretty inexpensive in general is if you
have a local vo-tech or community college, go sign up for a first
course--they'll supply the tools, expertise and you can normally bring
in a project or two and in a couple of months you'll have the basics
covered including safety--always a key.

Then, if you're wanting more, go for it. Here the course fee is $60 for
county residents plus (I think) $40 lab fee--pretty cheap...

--

A welder is only as good as the operator and how well you can prep the
materials. I've welded many rusted metals and painted as well. Grind, chip
or do what ever you can to remove the contaminents, then weld. Stick is a
little better at welding painted/rusty metal, but not much better. As long
as you get it hot enough, should be fine.

I'm a welder by trade and I know your not always gonna get perfect, clean
metal. Some new metals need to be cleaned up before welding as well.
Welding is 10 percent welding, 90 percent prep, better prep, better the weld
and fusion your gonna get, no matter what the condition of the metal.

Yes, new metal is easier to weld, but who can always afford new, when
old/used is cheaper.

--
Steve

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. But then I
read on some tutorial online that MIG was not good for painted or
rusted surfaces- and most of what I'll be welding will probably be
both.

So-- do I switch gears and look at a different setup- or get used to
using a wire brush?

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose a
welder- and then how to use it?


[Suggestions of websites- forums- and Usenet groups appreciated.]

Thanks-
Jim

keep in mind the 120v units won't weld much more than 1/8" stock properly.
You need a 220v unit with at LEAST 130A output for real fab work on 1/4 to
3/8 material.

steve


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. But then I
read on some tutorial online that MIG was not good for painted or
rusted surfaces- and most of what I'll be welding will probably be
both.

So-- do I switch gears and look at a different setup- or get used to
using a wire brush?

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose a
welder- and then how to use it?


[Suggestions of websites- forums- and Usenet groups appreciated.]

Thanks-
Jim

oh, another thought: Do not get one of those lincoln AC "buzzbox". If you
try AC welding to learn, you'll tear your hair out and never do it again.
If you're going with a stick welder, please spend a few extra dollars and
get a DC machine.

s


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. But then I
read on some tutorial online that MIG was not good for painted or
rusted surfaces- and most of what I'll be welding will probably be
both.

So-- do I switch gears and look at a different setup- or get used to
using a wire brush?

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose a
welder- and then how to use it?


[Suggestions of websites- forums- and Usenet groups appreciated.]

Thanks-
Jim

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. But then I
read on some tutorial online that MIG was not good for painted or
rusted surfaces- and most of what I'll be welding will probably be
both.

So-- do I switch gears and look at a different setup- or get used to
using a wire brush?

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose a
welder- and then how to use it?


[Suggestions of websites- forums- and Usenet groups appreciated.]

Thanks-
Jim

First, you are stepping into an abyss. Welding can be addictive, and it
opens up doors you don't even know are there right now. So buy a machine
that will do the work. You say casual use, but once you start welding,
you'll do more.

What kind of welding are you going to do? It is nearly impossible to find a
machine that will do everything, so we have three types: MIG, stick, and
TIG.

For you, the beginner, a MIG or a Stick would do it. I would say a 220
MIG.

Please consider that if you start to do ANY welding at all, you may outgrow
a small cheap starter machine in no time, and be having another capital
outlay soon. That said, I would suggest these:

Lincoln 225 AC/DC
Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Any of the Miller or LINCOLN wirefeeds, but I tend towards the 220v, as you
can use flux cored wire, and essentially don't need a stick. That one
machine will do MOST of the welding you want to do. If you get to the point
of needing big stick, you'll be able to find a good used Lincoln or Miller
stick for around $500, probably less. Once you get good enough to run 7018,
you'll make that much on one job.

MY CAUTION TO YOU: Buy Red or Blue (Lincoln or Miller). You can find
parts, and their warranties are outstanding. The HF stuff is a PITA, unless
you get the one in ten that works. If you do buy the HF, get the one with
the heftiest handle, as that makes the best boat anchor. When it fries, or
doesn't work, or you can't get consumables, that's about all it's good for.

I will get all kinds of flames from people who have had cheap machines and
they worked fine. I'm just telling you that you get what you pay for in a
welder, and if you want to do nice work, and not have the thing down or in
the shop half the time, spend a few extra bucks now. As you know, there are
some tools that you can do a much better job with than a cheaper model.

Let's put it this way: you're going into the hauling business. Do you want
a cheap wimpy low capacity truck, or one that will haul bigger loads and
make more money and run more of the time? No sense turning down work and
money because you got wimpy equipment.

Steve, who's been welding since 1974. I got the Lincoln 175SP+

"S. Barker" wrote in message
...
oh, another thought: Do not get one of those lincoln AC "buzzbox". If
you try AC welding to learn, you'll tear your hair out and never do it
again. If you're going with a stick welder, please spend a few extra
dollars and get a DC machine.

s

ditto

"S. Barker" wrote in message
...
keep in mind the 120v units won't weld much more than 1/8" stock properly.
You need a 220v unit with at LEAST 130A output for real fab work on 1/4 to
3/8 material.

steve

ditto

On Tue, 01 Jan 2008 09:26:13 -0500, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. But then I
read on some tutorial online that MIG was not good for painted or
rusted surfaces- and most of what I'll be welding will probably be
both.

So-- do I switch gears and look at a different setup- or get used to
using a wire brush?

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose a
welder- and then how to use it?


[Suggestions of websites- forums- and Usenet groups appreciated.]

Thanks-
Jim

But it at Harbor Freight, and you'll be tossing it in the garbage by
next New Year. Spend the extra money and get something that will
last.

To prepare painted or rusty metal, be sure you have an angle grinder.
Wire brushes are far too slow for most work. You can put both a
grinder wheel and a wire wheel on the angle grinder. I own 3
grinders. One has a cutting wheel, one has a grinding wheel, the 3rd
has a wire wheel. It's just too much hassle to keep changing wheels
during a job. I'll have to admit that the wire wheel grinder is just
one of those cheap imports that cost under $20. The ones that get the
hard work are better quality. Angle grinders are one of the easiest
way to cut metal in a small home setup, unless you got lots of money
to buy power tools and torches made for cutting metal.

I personally own and use an old Sears AC stick welder. It gets the
job done. Knowing how to weld is 90% of the job.
Check out this website. Lots of tips and stuff to learn from:
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ng-your-skills
They have a PDF file on there to download and it's full of good
educational stuff about welding.

On Jan 1, 8:26*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. * * Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. * But then I
read on some tutorial online that MIG was not good for painted or
rusted surfaces- and most of what I'll be welding will probably be
both.

So-- do I switch gears and look at a different setup- or get used to
using a wire brush?

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose a
welder- and then how to use it?

[Suggestions of websites- forums- and Usenet groups appreciated.]

Thanks-
Jim

Go to www.millerwelds/resources/ improving-your-skills and check out
all the great articles and help tips. Then sign up for their
newsletter which is well worth the time it takes to read all the info
that shows up there. And if you must buy HF things, get their better
angle grinder and wire brushes, you'll need them. HTH

Joe

Joe wrote:
On Jan 1, 8:26 am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. But then I
read on some tutorial online that MIG was not good for painted or
rusted surfaces- and most of what I'll be welding will probably be
both.

So-- do I switch gears and look at a different setup- or get used to
using a wire brush?

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose
a welder- and then how to use it?

[Suggestions of websites- forums- and Usenet groups appreciated.]

Thanks-
Jim

Go to www.millerwelds/resources/

Just a slight correction, Joe : http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/
--
Dave
www.davebbq.com

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 01 Jan 2008 09:26:13 -0500, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. But then I
read on some tutorial online that MIG was not good for painted or
rusted surfaces- and most of what I'll be welding will probably be
both.

So-- do I switch gears and look at a different setup- or get used to
using a wire brush?

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose a
welder- and then how to use it?


[Suggestions of websites- forums- and Usenet groups appreciated.]

Thanks-
Jim

But it at Harbor Freight, and you'll be tossing it in the garbage by
next New Year. Spend the extra money and get something that will
last.

To prepare painted or rusty metal, be sure you have an angle grinder.
Wire brushes are far too slow for most work. You can put both a
grinder wheel and a wire wheel on the angle grinder. I own 3
grinders. One has a cutting wheel, one has a grinding wheel, the 3rd
has a wire wheel. It's just too much hassle to keep changing wheels
during a job. I'll have to admit that the wire wheel grinder is just
one of those cheap imports that cost under $20. The ones that get the
hard work are better quality. Angle grinders are one of the easiest
way to cut metal in a small home setup, unless you got lots of money
to buy power tools and torches made for cutting metal.

I personally own and use an old Sears AC stick welder. It gets the
job done. Knowing how to weld is 90% of the job.
Check out this website. Lots of tips and stuff to learn from:
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ng-your-skills
They have a PDF file on there to download and it's full of good
educational stuff about welding.

Having multiple grinders is about one of the handiest things I can think of.
I got a four plug on the end of my extension cord, and have a grinder,
electric brush and a paddle sander.

Steve

On Jan 1, 8:26 am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
I've started thinking that I'd like to try some welding. Mostly
for quick repairs on old equipment- but also for light fabrication.

I was thinking of getting one of the $100 MIG welders from Harbor
Freight just to see if this was something I could learn. But then I
read on some tutorial online that MIG was not good for painted or
rusted surfaces- and most of what I'll be welding will probably be
both.

So-- do I switch gears and look at a different setup- or get used to
using a wire brush?

Any suggestions for a must read first book that might help me choose a
welder- and then how to use it?

[Suggestions of websites- forums- and Usenet groups appreciated.]

Thanks-
Jim

Just an aside ..... if you got rust, paint, oil, dirt, or wind, you're going
to have a spongy looking weld. As said, the electric brush is the thing.
But beware. An electric wire brush is about the nastiest thing next to a
pit bull I've ever seen. It's easy to get violent kicks if you put it in
the work the wrong way. They are unforgiving. And wear a face shield. I
have pulled more than one of those wires out of my body in various places.
I don't know what 14,000 rpm converts to in mph, but I'd say about 1/4" of
penetration. With wirefeed, metal prep is key.

Steve

In article ,
"SteveB" wrote:

I don't know what 14,000 rpm converts to in mph

2" diameter would be 82 mph.

In article , not-registered-
) says...

Angle grinders are one of the easiest
way to cut metal in a small home setup, unless you got lots of money
to buy power tools and torches made for cutting metal.

I use a sawzall with a metal blade or a 14" cutoff saw for almost all my
cutting.

I personally own and use an old Sears AC stick welder. It gets the
job done.

Yeah, I have an old Wards AC welder that works just fine. Only 40% duty
cycle at 200 amps, but I don't do production work, just farm welding.

--
For email, replace firstnamelastinitial
with my first name and last initial.

On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 00:40:30 -0800, Larry Caldwell
wrote:

In article , not-registered-
) says...

Angle grinders are one of the easiest
way to cut metal in a small home setup, unless you got lots of money
to buy power tools and torches made for cutting metal.

I use a sawzall with a metal blade or a 14" cutoff saw for almost all my
cutting.

I personally own and use an old Sears AC stick welder. It gets the
job done.

Yeah, I have an old Wards AC welder that works just fine. Only 40% duty
cycle at 200 amps, but I don't do production work, just farm welding.

That's exactly what I use mine for. I dont know what my duty cycle
is, I just know it works, and never stopped welding on it's own. I
dont do production either, except the time I made 16 ten foot fence
panels out of some scrap metal I got. That was a chore !!!!

I've never used a DC welder. I have no idea what it would feel like.
I once used a small (borrowed) wire feed welder. Either the welder
was too cmall, too cheap a brand, or something else was wrong with it.
All I did was fight to keep the very thin wire from getting too long
or too short or getting stuck. I was not highly impressed, not to
mention the price of the wire compared to plain stick rods.

Not to discourage the OP, but I think the wire feed welder was
something like Harbor Freight would sell. Cheap junk if you ask me,
but then I wont even step a foot into H.F. or places like it. I
normally I buy quality tools, but if I only need something to use
once, or for light duty, I generally buy them at Menards, which have
proven to be fairly decent for the price and easy to return. (They
dont sell welders though).

My only problem with the AC welder and stick rods is welding thin
material. Sometimes it just burns thru no matter what I do. Although
the choice of rod types helps somewhat.

Have you (or anyone else) ever used a DC welder? What's the
difference? I learned to weld with AC, got fairly good at it, and
that's pretty much all I know.

In article , not-registered-
) says...

Have you (or anyone else) ever used a DC welder? What's the
difference? I learned to weld with AC, got fairly good at it, and
that's pretty much all I know.

The difference is that you can choose which direction the electrons
flow. If they flow from your electrode to the work, they heat the work
more. If they flow from the work to the stick, they heat the stick
more. For heavy work, a DC welder gives better penetration. For light
work, reverse the polarity and it's less likely to burn through. Other
than that, it's pretty much the same game.


--
For email, replace firstnamelastinitial
with my first name and last initial.

Larry Caldwell wrote in
:

In article , not-registered-
) says...

Have you (or anyone else) ever used a DC welder? What's the
difference? I learned to weld with AC, got fairly good at it, and
that's pretty much all I know.

The difference is that you can choose which direction the electrons
flow. If they flow from your electrode to the work, they heat the work
more. If they flow from the work to the stick, they heat the stick
more. For heavy work, a DC welder gives better penetration. For light
work, reverse the polarity and it's less likely to burn through. Other
than that, it's pretty much the same game.



This is the stuff I like to see posted.Thank you.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 07:35:52 -0800, Larry Caldwell
wrote:

In article , not-registered-
) says...

Have you (or anyone else) ever used a DC welder? What's the
difference? I learned to weld with AC, got fairly good at it, and
that's pretty much all I know.

The difference is that you can choose which direction the electrons
flow. If they flow from your electrode to the work, they heat the work
more. If they flow from the work to the stick, they heat the stick
more. For heavy work, a DC welder gives better penetration. For light
work, reverse the polarity and it's less likely to burn through. Other
than that, it's pretty much the same game.

So what you're saying is that the person changes the polarity to
achieve the desired result, correct? I am going to assume that
positive on the welding rod and negative on the steel being welded
would be the setting used for deeper penetration, and if reversed, it
would be for avoiding burn thru. Is this correct, or is it the
opposite of that?

Thanks for the advice. I now understand the use of a DC welder.
Now I wish I had one to give it a try....

wrote in
:

On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 07:35:52 -0800, Larry Caldwell
wrote:

In article , not-registered-
) says...

Have you (or anyone else) ever used a DC welder? What's the
difference? I learned to weld with AC, got fairly good at it, and
that's pretty much all I know.

The difference is that you can choose which direction the electrons
flow. If they flow from your electrode to the work, they heat the work
more. If they flow from the work to the stick, they heat the stick
more. For heavy work, a DC welder gives better penetration. For light
work, reverse the polarity and it's less likely to burn through. Other
than that, it's pretty much the same game.

So what you're saying is that the person changes the polarity to
achieve the desired result, correct? I am going to assume that
positive on the welding rod and negative on the steel being welded
would be the setting used for deeper penetration, and if reversed, it
would be for avoiding burn thru. Is this correct, or is it the
opposite of that?


I would think it's the opposite;negative rod for deeper penetration of
weld.(neg to pos electron flow.) The E-beam from the rod strikes the
workpiece and delivers it's energy to the piece.

Thanks for the advice. I now understand the use of a DC welder.
Now I wish I had one to give it a try....






--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

i have a lincoln ac/dc buzzbox stick welder.. and reccomend it. .
when you buy it, youll get an offer on the lincoln welding book,get it.
i saw the lincoln ac dc stick welder at home depot and lows the other
day .it has a 3 year warranty . i like it because it does pretty thin
metal and is powerfull enough for the heavy thickness metal stock. have
welded thru paint and dirt in a pinch.when you strike your arc, strike
it like a match.. lucas

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

check out http://www.welding.com/welding_terms.shtml look under the
letter 'D'.

also see:

http://books.google.com/books?id=EOi...HzONFeM5q8buZY

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...ad.php?t=27151

not much use for electrode negative. Electrode positive is the normal way,
and is called DC reverse polarity.


steve


wrote in message
...
So what you're saying is that the person changes the polarity to
achieve the desired result, correct? I am going to assume that
positive on the welding rod and negative on the steel being welded
would be the setting used for deeper penetration, and if reversed, it
would be for avoiding burn thru. Is this correct, or is it the
opposite of that?

Thanks for the advice. I now understand the use of a DC welder.
Now I wish I had one to give it a try....

not much use for electrode negative. Electrode positive is the normal
way, and is called DC reverse polarity.

There are lots of uses for electrode negative. Choose any welding book.
Read all about it.

Steve

i've read 'em and i've lived it. Never used it, never seen anyone use it.
Even the books say there's not much use for it.

s


"SteveB" wrote in message
...
not much use for electrode negative. Electrode positive is the normal
way, and is called DC reverse polarity.

There are lots of uses for electrode negative. Choose any welding book.
Read all about it.

Steve

dpb wrote:
-snip-
What I would recommend that's pretty inexpensive in general is if you
have a local vo-tech or community college, go sign up for a first
course--they'll supply the tools, expertise and you can normally bring
in a project or two and in a couple of months you'll have the basics
covered including safety--always a key.

Then, if you're wanting more, go for it. Here the course fee is $60 for
county residents plus (I think) $40 lab fee--pretty cheap...

I'll check around some more- but it looks like my local college uses a
local "Welding School" - "Modern Welding School" in Schenectady, NY.

The school looks like it caters more to businesses- but it offers a 6
hour course for $179. [and these are broken down into MIG, TIG, Gas,
etc- no 'overall' intro course.]

There must be other courses available- I think it might be money well
spent.

Thanks,
Jim

On Tue, 1 Jan 2008 10:18:42 -0600, "S. Barker"
wrote:

keep in mind the 120v units won't weld much more than 1/8" stock properly.
You need a 220v unit with at LEAST 130A output for real fab work on 1/4 to
3/8 material.

Thanks- just talked me out of 120v. Dammit- I don't have 220 in the
garage yet.

Jim

In article ,
"S. Barker" wrote:

i've read 'em and i've lived it. Never used it, never seen anyone use it.
Even the books say there's not much use for it.

s



Clarification for another non-welder: Since the advantage of DC was
postulated as polarity selectivity, does that mean, in your opinion,
that AC is as useful or good as DC?

"SteveB" wrote:

-snip-
First, you are stepping into an abyss. Welding can be addictive, and it
opens up doors you don't even know are there right now. So buy a machine
that will do the work. You say casual use, but once you start welding,
you'll do more.

Thanks for the detailed remarks--- I've started looking at lightly
used machines and see lots on Craigslist & Ebay-- probably makes
sense once I decide which way I'll go.

-snip-
Lincoln 225 AC/DC
Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Any of the Miller or LINCOLN wirefeeds, but I tend towards the 220v, as you
can use flux cored wire, and essentially don't need a stick. That one
machine will do MOST of the welding you want to do. If you get to the point
of needing big stick, you'll be able to find a good used Lincoln or Miller
stick for around $500, probably less. Once you get good enough to run 7018,
you'll make that much on one job.

There won't be any 'for hire' jobs in my future [he says confidently.
.. . ] -- but I do know the experience of thinking 'if I'd just gone
one step bigger when I bought the first tool. . .'.


MY CAUTION TO YOU: Buy Red or Blue (Lincoln or Miller). You can find
parts, and their warranties are outstanding. The HF stuff is a PITA, unless
you get the one in ten that works. If you do buy the HF, get the one with
the heftiest handle, as that makes the best boat anchor. When it fries, or
doesn't work, or you can't get consumables, that's about all it's good for.

I'm still a HF fan-- but your point is well taken- on a complicated
tool that relies on consumables, I am probably better off buying used
Red/Blue.

-snip-


Thanks,
Jim

wrote:


-snip-
To prepare painted or rusty metal, be sure you have an angle grinder.
Wire brushes are far too slow for most work. You can put both a
grinder wheel and a wire wheel on the angle grinder. I own 3
grinders. One has a cutting wheel, one has a grinding wheel, the 3rd
has a wire wheel. It's just too much hassle to keep changing wheels
during a job.

Good idea-- I've got a good Hitachi, but I'm always losing the arbor
nut when I have a wire brush on for a few days.

I'll pick up a cheapy to hold those wire wheels.
-snip-
Angle grinders are one of the easiest
way to cut metal in a small home setup, unless you got lots of money
to buy power tools and torches made for cutting metal.

Gotta admit I've never cut with mine-

-snip-
Check out this website. Lots of tips and stuff to learn from:
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ng-your-skills
They have a PDF file on there to download and it's full of good
educational stuff about welding.

Thanks for the link, too-

Jim

"S. Barker" wrote in message
...
i've read 'em and i've lived it. Never used it, never seen anyone use it.
Even the books say there's not much use for it.

s

If you say it, then it must be so.

Steve

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 1 Jan 2008 10:18:42 -0600, "S. Barker"
wrote:

keep in mind the 120v units won't weld much more than 1/8" stock properly.
You need a 220v unit with at LEAST 130A output for real fab work on 1/4 to
3/8 material.

Thanks- just talked me out of 120v. Dammit- I don't have 220 in the
garage yet.

Jim

Do not let the 220 intimidate you. My Lincoln 175SP+ is rated at a 22 amp
draw MAXIMUM. I weld at about half power on most things, so you won't come
close to hitting max or your duty cycle. A friend of mine is a union
electrician with 37 years in now. He looked at it and stuck in a 20 amp
breaker. I've NEVER popped it in five years now. With a stick, it's
another matter. You don't need a huge honker 220 high amp circuit to run a
220 MIG with .035" wire. And that will do 95% of what you want to do.

Steve

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news

Clarification for another non-welder: Since the advantage of DC was
postulated as polarity selectivity, does that mean, in your opinion,
that AC is as useful or good as DC?


No , neither. but the machines are dirt cheap. You probably won't find a
farm that doesn't have an old lincoln ac buzzbox welder. I'M not saying
they're useless by anymeans, but the DC machine will make a better weld and
do it eaiser.

that's a fact jack. G


s

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

If you say it, then it must be so.

Steve

They usually end up being a whole lot of fun also. I've done several with
friends just as a diversion.

s

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...

I'll check around some more- but it looks like my local college uses a
local "Welding School" - "Modern Welding School" in Schenectady, NY.

The school looks like it caters more to businesses- but it offers a 6
hour course for $179. [and these are broken down into MIG, TIG, Gas,
etc- no 'overall' intro course.]

There must be other courses available- I think it might be money well
spent.

Thanks,
Jim

You won't need a whole lot of power. 10ga wire on a 30a breaker will run
any weld you'll ever do.

s


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 1 Jan 2008 10:18:42 -0600, "S. Barker"
wrote:

keep in mind the 120v units won't weld much more than 1/8" stock properly.
You need a 220v unit with at LEAST 130A output for real fab work on 1/4 to
3/8 material.

Thanks- just talked me out of 120v. Dammit- I don't have 220 in the
garage yet.

Jim

S. Barker wrote:
They usually end up being a whole lot of fun also. I've done several with
friends just as a diversion.
...

There are a couple of women here in town that have been "taking" the
vo-tech class for about five years now. They're into artsy kinds of
stuff as well as wrought iron, etc.

Started out as total newbies, now are damned good, both of them. They
bought an old clunker truck and attend local farm auctions and buy up
most of the junk and scrap metal as their raw material. One was
fighting cancer when started and started out as a diversion and the
other started to simply be supportive. Now the guys in the classes see
what they're doing and virtually all end up making at least one or two
decorative items besides the "just welding" -- there's some really nice
work coming out of there besides a qualified high-pressure gas pipeline
weld (this is oil production company so that's where a bunch of the guys
doing it for a "real job" end up).

--