I have been about to buy a good 110v mig for a couple months, but
spend too much time reading the web... Seems people find the Miller
135 or similar not 'hot' enough to weld thicker than 1/8" and too hot
for much sheet.

How do these alternate solutions compa

1. Braze the mapp/air for the sheet to 1/8" and an Arc for thicker?
Can that for $400.


2. Can a 220v mig like a Hobart Handler 180 go lower better for thin
than
a 110v machine? Obviously it can go 'hotter.' $650-700.

In article , John
wrote:

I have been about to buy a good 110v mig for a couple months, but
spend too much time reading the web... Seems people find the Miller
135 or similar not 'hot' enough to weld thicker than 1/8" and too hot
for much sheet.

How do these alternate solutions compa

1. Braze the mapp/air for the sheet to 1/8" and an Arc for thicker?
Can that for $400.


2. Can a 220v mig like a Hobart Handler 180 go lower better for thin
than
a 110v machine? Obviously it can go 'hotter.' $650-700.


I believe the main problem people have with the Miller 135 on sheet
metal is that they are trying to use flux-core wire.

With shielding gas and 0.024" wire a Miller 135 can easily weld down to
24 ga steel.

I've been using a Hobart 135 for a couple/few years, and don't have any
complaints about under or over 1/8". I use flux core .030" or .035". It can
be used anywhere that there's a good connection to a 20A 120VAC circuit.

Not much of the fabricating I do is sheetmetal though. When a lapped joint
can be done, it's not difficult to stitch or tack enough to accomplish the
intended strength.
I've never been certified, don't weld as an occupation, and I don't do major
structural or safety related work/repairs.
I haven't seen any reason not to use it for up to 1/4" joining. It may be my
sloppy technique, but penetration of over 1/8" is easily accomplished.
The only welds that I'm aware of that were weak were in OBF (old bed frame)
which is a poor material. I'd welded some new steel to the OBF, and I was
able to pull the weld cleanly out of the OBF, even though there was full
penetration.
For heavier material, I generally just weave back 'n forth. I wouldn't be
concerned about joining 3/8" as long as it doesn't need to support several
hundred pounds of load separately.

I usually don't prefer a brazed sheetmetal joint over welded. A problem with
brazing thin material is heat distortion.. the MIG heat is fairly well
concentrated in the weld area. I don't place much confidence in brazed parts
that are subject to stress, such as machine parts that might be subject to
vibration or flex.
In applications where a small feature is added to a larger part, I usually
consider that a good place to braze. I accomplish my brazing with a MAPP
torch and MAPP or high output gas. (The only thing that can be accomplished
with a propane torch and MAPP gas is soldering).

WB
...............

"John" wrote in message
om...
I have been about to buy a good 110v mig for a couple months, but
spend too much time reading the web... Seems people find the Miller
135 or similar not 'hot' enough to weld thicker than 1/8" and too hot
for much sheet.

How do these alternate solutions compa

1. Braze the mapp/air for the sheet to 1/8" and an Arc for thicker?
Can that for $400.


2. Can a 220v mig like a Hobart Handler 180 go lower better for thin
than
a 110v machine? Obviously it can go 'hotter.' $650-700.

I have a Lincoln SP125. I like it because it has continuous heat
control, not just 4 steps. That fine control really makes a
difference with thin metal.

It does a beautiful job with Ag25 shield gas, even butt-welding
28-gage steel. It's a great machine for autobody, which is why I
bought it. Living in MN, I used to do a lot of "rust work".

I've later discovered that it can weld 3/16" steel with fluxcore, no
problem at all. I was doing some 1/8" steel yesterday, had problems
with blowthru until I turned the heat down a bit. Fluxcore isn't as
pretty as MIG, more like stick, but it definitely gets the job done --
and it's a must when working outdoors if there's any breeze.

I like the 110 volt operation because I can bring the welder to the
job, as in working on a trailer or dock.

Brazing sheetmetal has never worked well for me except for very small
jobs. Too much heat distortion. MIG works much better.

On 17 Jul 2004 04:01:14 -0700, (John) wrote:

I have been about to buy a good 110v mig for a couple months, but
spend too much time reading the web... Seems people find the Miller
135 or similar not 'hot' enough to weld thicker than 1/8" and too hot
for much sheet.

How do these alternate solutions compa

1. Braze the mapp/air for the sheet to 1/8" and an Arc for thicker?
Can that for $400.


2. Can a 220v mig like a Hobart Handler 180 go lower better for thin
than
a 110v machine? Obviously it can go 'hotter.' $650-700.