I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get 20
amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough. So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC

On Mar 16, 9:39 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get 20
amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough. So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC

Your electrician is an idiot. If he is licensed, he should take a
refresher course on the code. Unless you have something that has a
plug like this - | then you don't need any 20 amp outlets, let
alone any 20 amp switches.

We just covered this in a lengthy discussion on a yahoo group.

If anyone has a sound reason to disagree, get out your code book and
quote chapter and verse. I bow to the greater wisdom and would love
to hear logic from a licensed master electrician, which I am not.

BTW, are you talking about can lights when you say "high hats"?

JK

On Mar 16, 9:47 pm, "Big_Jake" wrote:
On Mar 16, 9:39 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





I had an electrician inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get 20
amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough. So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC

Your electrician is an idiot. If he is licensed, he should take a
refresher course on the code. Unless you have something that has a
plug like this - | then you don't need any 20 amp outlets, let
alone any 20 amp switches.

We just covered this in a lengthy discussion on a yahoo group.

If anyone has a sound reason to disagree, get out your code book and
quote chapter and verse. I bow to the greater wisdom and would love
to hear logic from a licensed master electrician, which I am not.

BTW, are you talking about can lights when you say "high hats"?


I would like to add that the electrician might not be an idiot. He
might just be trying to drum up some unnecessary work. If your
switches are failing often enough, and you feel replacing them would
end the headaches then go for it.

You might consider using 20A receptacles in the kitchen. That is
about the only place I can think of. As many here have already
pointed out, 20A in the kitchen most likely won't necessary as it is
rare that you actually find an appliance with a 20A plug.

Hooking up switches and receptacles yourself is very simple. With the
power off you unscrew one wire at a time and put it on the new device
and you are good to go.

You should never have to unscrew a wire-nut.

20 amp outlets and switches don't make them better, just higher capacity. If
you want better than residential grade devices, get something like spec
grade. It is a code violation to install 20 amp receptacles on a 15 amp
circuit. It is however legal to install 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp
circuits



"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches
are getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to
replace all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I
should get 20 amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
piece, the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted
that I need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way
20 amp switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.
So what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC

Just get the contractor packs. 10 for $4.89 or something like that.

--
Steve Barker

YOU should be the one
controlling YOUR car.
Check out:
www.lightsout.org




"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches
are getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to
replace all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I
should get 20 amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
piece, the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted
that I need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way
20 amp switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.
So what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC

As everyone said, the electrician is an idiot. It is actually wrong to put
20a outlets on 15a circuits; that is why they are different.

That said, I wouldn't use $0.89 devices. They are likely to wear out faster
and be less dependable. Spend a couple bucks on it and do it right the
first time. Unless of course you like doing it all again next year.

MiamiCuse wrote:
I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get 20
amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough. So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC




Buy the better 15A outlets for about $2 each. You don't need any 20A
switches unless you are switching motors. The 79¢ switches are fine.

The 35¢ outlets are good enough for bedrooms, washing machine, behind
the refrigerator, etc. You need good outlets at the kitchen counters,
bathroom, garage, the one in the hall where you plug in the vacuum
cleaner all the time, etc.

Bob

"Big_Jake" wrote in message
ups.com...
BTW, are you talking about can lights when you say "high hats"?

JK


Yes that is what I mean, recessed can lights.

Thanks,

MC

On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 22:39:09 -0400, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get 20
amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough. So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC


You're being robbed......
If you have a few outlets where the plugs seem loose and fall out,
replace THOSE. If you have swithces that make the light flicker and
pop internally when turned on, replace them. Leave the others until
they are needed. You only need 20A ones on 20A circuits for large
appliances, such as the kitchen.

wrote:
On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 22:39:09 -0400, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:


I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get 20
amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough. So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC



You're being robbed......
If you have a few outlets where the plugs seem loose and fall out,
replace THOSE. If you have swithces that make the light flicker and
pop internally when turned on, replace them. Leave the others until
they are needed. You only need 20A ones on 20A circuits for large
appliances, such as the kitchen.


It might be possible that ALL old outlets and switches are due for
replacement. that is the case in my house.

I'd use "spec grade" devices wherever I could. Yes, it will be several
times more expensive than standard.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

MiamiCuse wrote:
I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the
wirings and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets
and switches are getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work.
We decided to replace all outlets and switches. He told me to be on
the safe side I should get 20 amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
piece, the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I
counted that I need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up.
Plus 3 way 20 amp switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or
vaccum cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp
is enough. So what is the basis for determining this if I have these
switches:
For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid
the expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC

Note: the price difference is not 15 vs 20, the price difference there
is far less. but rather you are not looking at the same grade switch and
outlet. Chances are the reason you now have flaky switches and outlets is
the originals are cheap contractor grade like the $0.89 ones you are seeing.
I would never bother buying one of those. Considering the difference I
would go for the better quality. Follow code about the 15 vs 20 issue.

You don't need to replace them all at the same time. I would not. I
would tend to replace any that I had problems with and then any critical
ones and then as time and money moved me the rest of them.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

There's likely to be a few sockets where things get plugged in
once every five years. The lamp behind the sofa. The garage door
opener socket, on the ceiling of the garage. Those don't need
premium quality sockets.

Other things get plugged every day. Razor shaver, blender and
toaster socket in the kitchen, etc. Those could use premium
sockets.

And there are exceptions like me, who leaves his shaver plugged
in all the time.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"Toller" wrote in message
...
: As everyone said, the electrician is an idiot. It is actually
wrong to put
: 20a outlets on 15a circuits; that is why they are different.
:
: That said, I wouldn't use $0.89 devices. They are likely to
wear out faster
: and be less dependable. Spend a couple bucks on it and do it
right the
: first time. Unless of course you like doing it all again next
year.
:
:

Terry wrote:
On Mar 16, 9:47 pm, "Big_Jake" wrote:
On Mar 16, 9:39 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





I had an electrician inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get 20
amps switches and outlets.
I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!
I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough. So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:
For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light
Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.
Thanks,
MC
Your electrician is an idiot. If he is licensed, he should take a
refresher course on the code. Unless you have something that has a
plug like this - | then you don't need any 20 amp outlets, let
alone any 20 amp switches.

We just covered this in a lengthy discussion on a yahoo group.

If anyone has a sound reason to disagree, get out your code book and
quote chapter and verse. I bow to the greater wisdom and would love
to hear logic from a licensed master electrician, which I am not.

BTW, are you talking about can lights when you say "high hats"?


I would like to add that the electrician might not be an idiot. He
might just be trying to drum up some unnecessary work. If your
switches are failing often enough, and you feel replacing them would
end the headaches then go for it.

You might consider using 20A receptacles in the kitchen. That is
about the only place I can think of. As many here have already
pointed out, 20A in the kitchen most likely won't necessary as it is
rare that you actually find an appliance with a 20A plug.

Hooking up switches and receptacles yourself is very simple. With the
power off you unscrew one wire at a time and put it on the new device
and you are good to go.

You should never have to unscrew a wire-nut.



It is simple but the wire is pretty heavy duty and the outlet boxes are
tight so it may take time. Also, as mentioned, TURN OFF THE POWER at
the breaker box - and be sure you turned off the right breaker.
If you have any 3 way switches go very slowly or the three ways will not
work.

Lou

On Mar 17, 5:54 am, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:
I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the
wirings and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets
and switches are getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work.
We decided to replace all outlets and switches. He told me to be on
the safe side I should get 20 amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
piece, the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I
counted that I need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up.
Plus 3 way 20 amp switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or
vaccum cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp
is enough. So what is the basis for determining this if I have these
switches:
For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid
the expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC

Note: the price difference is not 15 vs 20, the price difference there
is far less. but rather you are not looking at the same grade switch and
outlet. Chances are the reason you now have flaky switches and outlets is
the originals are cheap contractor grade like the $0.89 ones you are seeing.
I would never bother buying one of those. Considering the difference I
would go for the better quality. Follow code about the 15 vs 20 issue.

You don't need to replace them all at the same time. I would not. I
would tend to replace any that I had problems with and then any critical
ones and then as time and money moved me the rest of them.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


If you want, you can get heavy duty 15 amp receptacles. I'd use those
in any location where you may
frequently plug and unplug things, as opposed to say a location behind
the couch that you may only
plug a lamp cord in and leave it. You can also use them everywhere,
as they aren't anywhere near as
expensive as the prices you are seeing for 20 amp.

Also, as others have pointed out, if you elect to go with 20 amp
outlets, which I would not, unless you
have a load that requires it, the wire and breaker must be rated for
20amps. It is a code violation to put
a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp breaker or with wire that is less than 12
gauge. If it's an old house, it is
likely the wiring is not 12.

First thing I would do is find another electrician.

well I once replaced every outlet and switch here and bought the
premium pricey ones. The old ones were 50 years old and going bad. The
under a buck ones often with backstab connections are a bad deal, they
are pure junk.

I bought the premium 15 amp ones, that looked like the originals for 4
bucks a piece but that was over 10 years ago.

I did all the work myself, replaced all the light fixtures too. after
a shower of sparks in the middle of the night when I turned on my
bedroom lighjt could of easily burned down home.

A basic rule the cheapest ANYTHING is probably designed for a low
price point, a mid price item is usually better.

high fashion priced stuff is a rip off.

In article .com, "Terry" wrote:

I would like to add that the electrician might not be an idiot. He
might just be trying to drum up some unnecessary work. If your
switches are failing often enough, and you feel replacing them would
end the headaches then go for it.

No, he *is* an idiot. Putting 20A receptacles on a 15A circuit is a fire
hazard, because it enables plugging in a device that may draw more current
than the circuit conductors can safely carry.

You might consider using 20A receptacles in the kitchen. That is
about the only place I can think of. As many here have already
pointed out, 20A in the kitchen most likely won't necessary as it is
rare that you actually find an appliance with a 20A plug.

NOT UNLESS he has 20A circuits feeding the kitchen.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches
are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to
replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get
20
amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.
So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC


In addition to what everyone else said, I suggest that you consider
installing Decora style switches and receptacles as an upgrade. They have a
nice modern look to them. Sometimes you can buy these devices on sale at
Home Depot, but check at an electrical supply for box quantities (Ten to a
box). They may give you a great price like that.

Walmart sells these and I recommend them. Never had one that wasn't
perfect.



On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 22:39:09 -0400, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get 20
amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough. So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC

how many household 20 amp things are there?

honestly cant ever remember seeing one.

Terry wrote:

For switches, stick with the 15A also, but ... use brand name switches. If
you're trying to switch on/off a load of say an air conditioner, even a 20A
switch won't take that punishment for long. There just isn't much need for
a 20 amp switch, really.
....

Your electrician is an idiot. If he is licensed, he should take a
refresher course on the code. Unless you have something that has

Or he's looking for work that doesn't need to be done. Such a statement is
not called for unless you know WHY he made the recommendation.

a
plug like this - | then you don't need any 20 amp outlets, let
alone any 20 amp switches.

Agreed.


....

You might consider using 20A receptacles in the kitchen. That is
about the only place I can think of. As many here have already
pointed out, 20A in the kitchen most likely won't necessary as it is
rare that you actually find an appliance with a 20A plug.

Uhh, especially in a residential kitchen! Forget about 20A receptacles
unless you have a known specific need, which is very, very unlikely IME.

Just an edumacated diy'er wit lotsa sperience.

Pop`

Toller wrote:
As everyone said, the electrician is an idiot. It is actually wrong
to put 20a outlets on 15a circuits; that is why they are different.

"Everyone" did not say that. And you can not know that without knowing WHY
it was said. You're guessing and jumping to conclusions as are others.


That said, I wouldn't use $0.89 devices. They are likely to wear out
faster and be less dependable. Spend a couple bucks on it and do it
right the first time. Unless of course you like doing it all again
next year.

John Grabowski wrote:
"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches

are

getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to

replace

all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get

20

amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a

piece,

the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.

So

what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC



In addition to what everyone else said, I suggest that you consider
installing Decora style switches and receptacles as an upgrade. They have a
nice modern look to them. Sometimes you can buy these devices on sale at
Home Depot, but check at an electrical supply for box quantities (Ten to a
box). They may give you a great price like that.


I have been unable to find the "spec grade" Decora receps in a
contractor pack, only the cheap ones. You can get them individually at
Lowe's however. HD does not seem to carry them at all.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

wrote:
how many household 20 amp things are there?

honestly cant ever remember seeing one.



Air compressor wired for 120V?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches
are getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to
replace all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I
should get 20 amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
piece, the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted
that I need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way
20 amp switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.
So what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC



Thanks for all the replies it was very helpful. I think may be I will
attempt to do it myself. Part of the reasons I agreed to change them all is
that some are toggles, some are old buttons, some are ivory, some black and
some whites, some rounded outlets and some rectangulars. Even the phone
outlets there are some with two screws on and some with a "rotating
cover"...some of the switches I have to flip up and down twice or three
times to get the light to come on etc...

The electrician did say my circuits (I have two main panels in the garage)
are all 20 amp circuits and he opened select outlets and switch boxes and my
wirings are all 12 gauge.

So the consensus is I only need 15amps but may be I am better of getting
spec grade or pro grade ones except for those rarely used behind the couch
plugs, correct?

Again thanks for all the comments.

MC

Correct



"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
news

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches
are getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to
replace all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I
should get 20 amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
piece, the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted
that I need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way
20 amp switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or
vaccum cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is
enough. So what is the basis for determining this if I have these
switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC



Thanks for all the replies it was very helpful. I think may be I will
attempt to do it myself. Part of the reasons I agreed to change them all
is that some are toggles, some are old buttons, some are ivory, some black
and some whites, some rounded outlets and some rectangulars. Even the
phone outlets there are some with two screws on and some with a "rotating
cover"...some of the switches I have to flip up and down twice or three
times to get the light to come on etc...

The electrician did say my circuits (I have two main panels in the garage)
are all 20 amp circuits and he opened select outlets and switch boxes and
my wirings are all 12 gauge.

So the consensus is I only need 15amps but may be I am better of getting
spec grade or pro grade ones except for those rarely used behind the couch
plugs, correct?

Again thanks for all the comments.

MC

Your electrician is an idiot. If he is licensed, he should take a
refresher course on the code. Unless you have something that has

Or he's looking for work that doesn't need to be done. Such a statement is
not called for unless you know WHY he made the recommendation.

20A circuits are better than 15A circuits. But you don't necessarily
"need" them unless they are required (such as in your kitchen).

The advantages might not be readily apparent, and you may not get an
instant economic pay off by using the higher amperage circuit, but
here is my experience with this.

I have a room with several computers, monitors, printers, etc. where
my home office is located. It is served by just one 15A circuit.
Does it work?

Yes... 99.5% of the time there is no problem, but I've got enough load
on this particular circuit where it just reaches the tripping point
and overloads the breaker. Every once in a while it overloads and
causes me grief. I have to reset clocks, fix the computer, etc. I
can't plug the 12A vacuum cleaner into the same circuit, for example.

I really wish a 20A circuit had been installed from the beginning. If
I had control of the house during construction, I would have done it
that way. In fact, I would have run at least two 20A circuits just
for this room.

Right now, I live with the single 15A circuit because it would not be
economical feasible to tear up the walls and replace the wiring. I
suspect a lot of readers may have situations like this.

In addition to the higher capacity, 20A circuits have less voltage
drop than 15A circuits and perform better at longer distances from the
breaker box. They make sense for workshops, outdoor garden power
tools, computer rooms, and the larger 120V air-conditioners. Less
voltage drop also means less energy wasted in the form of heating the
wires.

Some would consider this a luxury, but if you are doing new
construction, or you have the walls open and the opportunity to run
new wiring, you might want to consider running 20A circuits instead of
15A. I believe the code allows 15A devices on a 20A circuit so
there is no point in buying the more expensive switches and outlets
unless there is an individual device needing them. The upgraded
(higher gauge) wire and the higher capacity breaker are the key
factors to a better quality electrical installation.

Beachcomber

On Mar 17, 11:45�am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"MiamiCuse" wrote in message

...





I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. *But many of the outlets and switches
are getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. *We decided to
replace all outlets and switches. *He told me to be on the safe side I
should get 20 amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
piece, the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. *Big difference. *I counted
that I need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. *Plus 3 way
20 amp switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.
So what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC

Thanks for all the replies it was very helpful. *I think may be I will
attempt to do it myself. *Part of the reasons I agreed to change them all is
that some are toggles, some are old buttons, some are ivory, some black and
some whites, some rounded outlets and some rectangulars. *Even the phone
outlets there are some with two screws on and some with a "rotating
cover"...some of the switches I have to flip up and down twice or three
times to get the light to come on etc...

The electrician did say my circuits (I have two main panels in the garage)
are all 20 amp circuits and he opened select outlets and switch boxes and my
wirings are all 12 gauge.

So the consensus is I only need 15amps but may be I am better of getting
spec grade or pro grade ones except for those rarely used behind the couch
plugs, correct?

Again thanks for all the comments.

MC- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah all 12 gauge go with all the same outlets. Although I seriouslyu
doubt your need for 20 amp with the extra bar on plug. what consumer
product uses 20 amp?

its a big job, read up in advance like wiring simplified. are all your
outlets grounded?

you should do ONE outlet at a time, then if wires come and go in box
check every outlet and lamp on that circuit eveywhere in building
assume troubles will come up they always do.

Like wires too short to be polarized properly.

so if something quits working you know where the problem occured

if you have a knowledgable friend better to get some initial help

test EVERY OUTLETS as you finish it for proper polarity and good
grounding

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
John Grabowski wrote:
"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the
wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches

are

getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to

replace

all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should
get

20

amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a

piece,

the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that
I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20
amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or
vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.

So

what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC



In addition to what everyone else said, I suggest that you consider
installing Decora style switches and receptacles as an upgrade. They
have a
nice modern look to them. Sometimes you can buy these devices on sale
at
Home Depot, but check at an electrical supply for box quantities (Ten to
a
box). They may give you a great price like that.


I have been unable to find the "spec grade" Decora receps in a
contractor pack, only the cheap ones. You can get them individually at
Lowe's however. HD does not seem to carry them at all.

nate


Perhaps an electrical supply company would have the spec grade in quantity.
I'm not sure that they are necessary for a residence though. The standard
Decora devices are pretty good

On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 16:52:33 GMT, (Beachcomber)
wrote:


20A circuits are better than 15A circuits.

You may have come in in the middle, but in this particular example, he
wasn't going to put in a 20A circuit. Just a 20A outlet on what was
most likely a 15A circuit.

If it had been a 20A circuit, it would likely have had 20A outlets
already, but it doesn't. None of them do.

But you don't necessarily
"need" them unless they are required (such as in your kitchen).
......

Doug Miller wrote:


snipped


No, he *is* an idiot. Putting 20A receptacles on a 15A circuit is a fire
hazard, because it enables plugging in a device that may draw more current
than the circuit conductors can safely carry.

I certainly agree with you that putting a 20 amp receptical on a 15A
circuit is NOT a smart thing to do because the shape of the receptical
slots makes it APPEAR that it's a 20 amp circuit.

But, if it IS a 15 amp circuit I'd expect the breaker (or fuse) to open
if the load exceeded 15 amps, so where does the fire hazard come from?

You could create an overload just by plugging two 10 amp loads into a
duplex 15 amp receptical on a 15 amp circuit, couldn't you?

snipped

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.

mm wrote:
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 16:52:33 GMT, (Beachcomber)
wrote:

20A circuits are better than 15A circuits.

You may have come in in the middle, but in this particular example, he
wasn't going to put in a 20A circuit. Just a 20A outlet on what was
most likely a 15A circuit.

If it had been a 20A circuit, it would likely have had 20A outlets
already, but it doesn't. None of them do.

But you don't necessarily
"need" them unless they are required (such as in your kitchen).
.....


OP has since said that all of the circuits are 20A and wired with 12
gauge wire (as I would have expected, my old house is like that too)
The only place where you'd likely see a 20A outlet is by a window for an
air conditioner. AFAIK, that's the only residential appliance that uses
a 20A plug. You also might have a 20A plug on a 3 or 4 HP (bogus
rating) air compressor.

It is normal to put 15A duplex receptacles on 20A circuits in the USA.
I think it's different in Canada.

Best regards,
Bob

Me neither. This 20A appliance discussion has been beat into the ground and
there doesn't seem to be any basis for it.

--
Steve Barker

YOU should be the one
controlling YOUR car.
Check out:
www.lightsout.org




wrote in message
oups.com...
how many household 20 amp things are there?

honestly cant ever remember seeing one.

not normally plugged in, in the kitchen.

--
Steve Barker

YOU should be the one
controlling YOUR car.
Check out:
www.lightsout.org




"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
wrote:
how many household 20 amp things are there?

honestly cant ever remember seeing one.



Air compressor wired for 120V?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 12:06:33 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:

John Grabowski wrote:
"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches

are

getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to

replace

all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get

20

amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a

piece,

the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.

So

what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC



In addition to what everyone else said, I suggest that you consider
installing Decora style switches and receptacles as an upgrade. They have a
nice modern look to them. Sometimes you can buy these devices on sale at
Home Depot, but check at an electrical supply for box quantities (Ten to a
box). They may give you a great price like that.


I have been unable to find the "spec grade" Decora receps in a
contractor pack, only the cheap ones. You can get them individually at
Lowe's however. HD does not seem to carry them at all.


Go to a true electrical supply co.

I suspect you are asking the wrong question, the question is not so much the
amp rating on the switches and outlets but rather the grade of the switches
and outlets.

If you look there should be several grades listed something like spec,
industrial and pro. the cheapies are usually less than a buck, the pro are
something around 2 bucks each and the industrial are the $6+ plugs.

The low grade is usually selected by track home builders because most people
buying houses don't care about plugs.

The mid grade is fine for most service probably outlast you, and the
industrial is big overkill unless you have a shop and are doing heavy work
or you have some special needs.

Try a different store if the borg doesn't have the mid grade.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches
are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to
replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get
20
amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.
So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC

On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 05:37:53 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:

wrote:
On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 22:39:09 -0400, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:


I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get 20
amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough. So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC



You're being robbed......
If you have a few outlets where the plugs seem loose and fall out,
replace THOSE. If you have swithces that make the light flicker and
pop internally when turned on, replace them. Leave the others until
they are needed. You only need 20A ones on 20A circuits for large
appliances, such as the kitchen.


It might be possible that ALL old outlets and switches are due for
replacement. that is the case in my house.


How do you know they ALL need replacement?

If you are talking about visual appearance, they might need
replacement for cosmetic reasons. If you are talking wear and tear,
there is no way they all need replacement, because there are outlets
in every home that never or seldom get used. Why replace what is not
broke? If for some reason the outlets are all bad, possibly because
they were installed 100 years ago, then the wiring also needs to be
replaced. The only time I can see where it would be needed to replace
ALL outlets is when a home is completely rewired, or when it's done
for cosmetic reasons such as during a complete house remodel job.
Otherwise, replace the ones that are used regularly, such as the
kitchen counter, bathroom outlet where the shaver, hair dryer, etc are
always plugged and unplugged, and maybe a few others where things are
regularly plugged and unplugged such as the ones used for the vacuum
cleaner, and those used for a workshop. Outlets dont wear out just
because a lamp is plugged in a couple times a year when cleaning the
house. Switches on the other hand take more abuse and wear out more
than outlets. But there too, they wear at different rates. The
bathroom, bedrooms, and kitchen lights are likely used often, but the
switch for the seldom used walkin closet or attic are probably fine.

I think this electrician is just trying to generate work for himself.
The OP would be better off having the kitchen and bathroom outlets
changed ONLY, or to really save some money, change them himself, one
room at a time, starting with the kitchen and bathroom. Personally I
dont understand why anyone would do any of this. Change them one at a
time when they get bad. In other words, dont fix what isn't broke.
He should replace all those that are worn now, and deal with the
others as needed in the future.

I'd use "spec grade" devices wherever I could. Yes, it will be several
times more expensive than standard.

nate

wrote:
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 05:37:53 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:


wrote:

On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 22:39:09 -0400, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:



I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches are
getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to replace
all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I should get 20
amps switches and outlets.

I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a piece,
the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted that I
need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way 20 amp
switches are even more expensive!

I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough. So
what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:

For activating garage door openers.
For plugging in a central vac system.
For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
For high hat lights (a single one)
For outdoor dusk light
For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
For a hallway a set of two high hat light

Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
expensive one if not really necessary.

Thanks,

MC



You're being robbed......
If you have a few outlets where the plugs seem loose and fall out,
replace THOSE. If you have swithces that make the light flicker and
pop internally when turned on, replace them. Leave the others until
they are needed. You only need 20A ones on 20A circuits for large
appliances, such as the kitchen.


It might be possible that ALL old outlets and switches are due for
replacement. that is the case in my house.



How do you know they ALL need replacement?

If you are talking about visual appearance, they might need
replacement for cosmetic reasons. If you are talking wear and tear,
there is no way they all need replacement, because there are outlets
in every home that never or seldom get used. Why replace what is not
broke? If for some reason the outlets are all bad, possibly because
they were installed 100 years ago, then the wiring also needs to be
replaced. The only time I can see where it would be needed to replace
ALL outlets is when a home is completely rewired, or when it's done
for cosmetic reasons such as during a complete house remodel job.
Otherwise, replace the ones that are used regularly, such as the
kitchen counter, bathroom outlet where the shaver, hair dryer, etc are
always plugged and unplugged, and maybe a few others where things are
regularly plugged and unplugged such as the ones used for the vacuum
cleaner, and those used for a workshop. Outlets dont wear out just
because a lamp is plugged in a couple times a year when cleaning the
house. Switches on the other hand take more abuse and wear out more
than outlets. But there too, they wear at different rates. The
bathroom, bedrooms, and kitchen lights are likely used often, but the
switch for the seldom used walkin closet or attic are probably fine.

I think this electrician is just trying to generate work for himself.
The OP would be better off having the kitchen and bathroom outlets
changed ONLY, or to really save some money, change them himself, one
room at a time, starting with the kitchen and bathroom. Personally I
dont understand why anyone would do any of this. Change them one at a
time when they get bad. In other words, dont fix what isn't broke.
He should replace all those that are worn now, and deal with the
others as needed in the future.

*none* of mine feel like they hold a plug securely. It appears that
they were all replaced sometime around 1980. I'm systematically going
through and replacing them all; I'd be done by now except I found a mess
of bootlegged grounds as well, which I've posted about before - I'm
waiting for a warm weekend to go up in the attic and rewire the 2nd floor.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:


snipped


No, he *is* an idiot. Putting 20A receptacles on a 15A circuit is a
fire hazard, because it enables plugging in a device that may draw
more current than the circuit conductors can safely carry.

I certainly agree with you that putting a 20 amp receptical on a 15A
circuit is NOT a smart thing to do because the shape of the receptical
slots makes it APPEAR that it's a 20 amp circuit.

But, if it IS a 15 amp circuit I'd expect the breaker (or fuse) to
open if the load exceeded 15 amps, so where does the fire hazard come
from?

The breaker could be defective.


You could create an overload just by plugging two 10 amp loads into a
duplex 15 amp receptical on a 15 amp circuit, couldn't you?


The breaker would flip.

Beachcomber wrote:
I have a room with several computers, monitors, printers, etc. where
my home office is located. It is served by just one 15A circuit.
Does it work?

I really wish a 20A circuit had been installed from the beginning. If
I had control of the house during construction, I would have done it
that way. In fact, I would have run at least two 20A circuits just
for this room.

Right now, I live with the single 15A circuit because it would not be
economical feasible to tear up the walls and replace the wiring. I
suspect a lot of readers may have situations like this.

Consider running conduit under the eaves from your breaker to the room
(assuming the room has an outside wall).

On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 16:52:33 GMT, (Beachcomber)
wrote:


I really wish a 20A circuit had been installed from the beginning. If
I had control of the house during construction, I would have done it
that way. In fact, I would have run at least two 20A circuits just
for this room.

Right now, I live with the single 15A circuit because it would not be
economical feasible to tear up the walls and replace the wiring. I
suspect a lot of readers may have situations like this.


Have you checked to see if your branch circuit has 12 or 14 gauge
wire? It could be 12. It does happen.