I have a old military surplus Bolens snowblower. A couple of years
ago, when I bought it, I put in a brand new Tecumseh HMSK-80 engine
instead of trying to fix the old 6 HP engine. (replacement was trivial)

It is somewhat difficult to start. I feel that it is so because I am
not following a correct procedure and need some ideas.

I added an electric starter to this engine. (which is really great,
very helpful in bad weather). It also has a throttle (fast/slow lever,
with the boittom slowest position being OFF), and a choke.

My symptoms is that when I start it, at cold temps like 0 F, it
sputters, runs very rough and wants me to press the fuel rubber button
to supply extra fuel or else it dies.

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.

After a few tries like that, once it warms up a bit, it starts running
a little better, at which point I slowly move it to a full speed
running position.

Then it runs very strong and everything works great. It is a heavy
snowblower and can get through anything. But I would like to know how
to start these engines better.

I keep it outside, so it is as cold as ambient air, for example
yesterday it was about 0F. If a couple of minutes with a heat gun
would make a difference, I could try that. Any ideas?

i

In article , on Wed, 07
Feb 2007 09:12:38 -0600, Ignoramus29345 wrote:

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.


Try starting it at full throttle and full choke, as specified by
Tecumseh in the Operator's Manual for the HMSK80.


--
Seth Goodman

Here's how I start mine:

Throttle 1/3 to 1/2.
Half choke
8-10 pumps on the fuel bulb
1 pull

It sputters and sometimes needs a couple of extra pumps on the fuel
bulb, but that is perfectly normal for a carbureted engine with a
gravity-fed fuel supply. After a few seconds it clears out and runs
like a top.

You've been spoiled by electronic fuel injection that takes care of
all of the choking and priming for you automatically.

On Wed, 7 Feb 2007 10:40:15 -0500, Seth Goodman wrote:
In article , on Wed, 07
Feb 2007 09:12:38 -0600, Ignoramus29345 wrote:

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.


Try starting it at full throttle and full choke, as specified by
Tecumseh in the Operator's Manual for the HMSK80.



Will do, tonight. Thanks.

i

On 7 Feb 2007 07:48:10 -0800, wrote:
Here's how I start mine:

Throttle 1/3 to 1/2.
Half choke
8-10 pumps on the fuel bulb
1 pull

It sputters and sometimes needs a couple of extra pumps on the fuel
bulb, but that is perfectly normal for a carbureted engine with a
gravity-fed fuel supply. After a few seconds it clears out and runs
like a top.

Thanks. I will try both yours and Seth's settings tonight.

You've been spoiled by electronic fuel injection that takes care of
all of the choking and priming for you automatically.

That, and by some diesel engines also...

i

"Ignoramus29345" wrote in
message ...
I have a old military surplus Bolens snowblower. A couple of years
ago, when I bought it, I put in a brand new Tecumseh HMSK-80 engine
instead of trying to fix the old 6 HP engine. (replacement was
trivial)

It is somewhat difficult to start. I feel that it is so because I am
not following a correct procedure and need some ideas.

I added an electric starter to this engine. (which is really great,
very helpful in bad weather). It also has a throttle (fast/slow
lever,
with the boittom slowest position being OFF), and a choke.

My symptoms is that when I start it, at cold temps like 0 F, it
sputters, runs very rough and wants me to press the fuel rubber
button
to supply extra fuel or else it dies.

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.

After a few tries like that, once it warms up a bit, it starts
running
a little better, at which point I slowly move it to a full speed
running position.

Then it runs very strong and everything works great. It is a heavy
snowblower and can get through anything. But I would like to know
how
to start these engines better.

I keep it outside, so it is as cold as ambient air, for example
yesterday it was about 0F. If a couple of minutes with a heat gun
would make a difference, I could try that. Any ideas?

i

Do you have anything that isn't military surplus G

AWEM

On Wed, 7 Feb 2007 16:10:41 -0000, Andrew Mawson wrote:

"Ignoramus29345" wrote in
message ...
I have a old military surplus Bolens snowblower. A couple of years
ago, when I bought it, I put in a brand new Tecumseh HMSK-80 engine
instead of trying to fix the old 6 HP engine. (replacement was
trivial)

It is somewhat difficult to start. I feel that it is so because I am
not following a correct procedure and need some ideas.

I added an electric starter to this engine. (which is really great,
very helpful in bad weather). It also has a throttle (fast/slow
lever,
with the boittom slowest position being OFF), and a choke.

My symptoms is that when I start it, at cold temps like 0 F, it
sputters, runs very rough and wants me to press the fuel rubber
button
to supply extra fuel or else it dies.

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.

After a few tries like that, once it warms up a bit, it starts
running
a little better, at which point I slowly move it to a full speed
running position.

Then it runs very strong and everything works great. It is a heavy
snowblower and can get through anything. But I would like to know
how
to start these engines better.

I keep it outside, so it is as cold as ambient air, for example
yesterday it was about 0F. If a couple of minutes with a heat gun
would make a difference, I could try that. Any ideas?

i

Do you have anything that isn't military surplus G

AWEM



I have a spouse who is not military surplus

i

Igor,

Good one.... :-)

Ignoramus29345 wrote:

I have a spouse who is not military surplus

i

First, baseline the carb by adjusting hot for best idle and load RPM.
Then, for low temp starting, start with the throttle 3/4 to full open,
w/full choke. As soon as the engine lights, quickly tweak the choke for
best initial rpm, where the engine clears out some and starts to rev.
This is your baseline choke start position. On the next cold start, use
this choke setting for starting. If OK- done. If not, more
experimentation with richer choke initial setting is req.
JR
Dweller in the cellar
Oh, how did uyou convert to ES? Did you have to buy a ringed flywheeel?

Ignoramus29345 wrote:
I have a old military surplus Bolens snowblower. A couple of years
ago, when I bought it, I put in a brand new Tecumseh HMSK-80 engine
instead of trying to fix the old 6 HP engine. (replacement was trivial)

It is somewhat difficult to start. I feel that it is so because I am
not following a correct procedure and need some ideas.

I added an electric starter to this engine. (which is really great,
very helpful in bad weather). It also has a throttle (fast/slow lever,
with the boittom slowest position being OFF), and a choke.

My symptoms is that when I start it, at cold temps like 0 F, it
sputters, runs very rough and wants me to press the fuel rubber button
to supply extra fuel or else it dies.

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.

After a few tries like that, once it warms up a bit, it starts running
a little better, at which point I slowly move it to a full speed
running position.

Then it runs very strong and everything works great. It is a heavy
snowblower and can get through anything. But I would like to know how
to start these engines better.

I keep it outside, so it is as cold as ambient air, for example
yesterday it was about 0F. If a couple of minutes with a heat gun
would make a difference, I could try that. Any ideas?

i


--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

On Wed, 07 Feb 2007 08:17:06 -0800, JR North wrote:
First, baseline the carb by adjusting hot for best idle and load RPM.
Then, for low temp starting, start with the throttle 3/4 to full open,
w/full choke. As soon as the engine lights, quickly tweak the choke for
best initial rpm, where the engine clears out some and starts to rev.
This is your baseline choke start position. On the next cold start, use
this choke setting for starting. If OK- done. If not, more
experimentation with richer choke initial setting is req.
JR
Dweller in the cellar
Oh, how did uyou convert to ES? Did you have to buy a ringed flywheeel?

Thanks for your suggestion.

When I realized that the snowblower needs a new engine, I bought a
Tecumseh HMSK-80 motor, which had a electric starter capability. All I
had to do was buy a starter separately, attach it to where it was
supposed to be attached, and then find a place to mount a electric
plug with the switch (part of starter package).

I love this electric starter, it makes things a lot easier when
weather is bad.

i

Ignoramus29345 wrote:
I have a old military surplus Bolens snowblower. A couple of years
ago, when I bought it, I put in a brand new Tecumseh HMSK-80 engine
instead of trying to fix the old 6 HP engine. (replacement was trivial)

It is somewhat difficult to start. I feel that it is so because I am
not following a correct procedure and need some ideas.

I added an electric starter to this engine. (which is really great,
very helpful in bad weather). It also has a throttle (fast/slow lever,
with the boittom slowest position being OFF), and a choke.

My symptoms is that when I start it, at cold temps like 0 F, it
sputters, runs very rough and wants me to press the fuel rubber button
to supply extra fuel or else it dies.

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.

After a few tries like that, once it warms up a bit, it starts running
a little better, at which point I slowly move it to a full speed
running position.

Then it runs very strong and everything works great. It is a heavy
snowblower and can get through anything. But I would like to know how
to start these engines better.

I keep it outside, so it is as cold as ambient air, for example
yesterday it was about 0F. If a couple of minutes with a heat gun
would make a difference, I could try that. Any ideas?

i

On Wed, 07 Feb 2007 10:12:18 -0600, Ignoramus29345
wrote:

On Wed, 7 Feb 2007 16:10:41 -0000, Andrew Mawson wrote:

"Ignoramus29345" wrote in
message ...
I have a old military surplus Bolens snowblower. A couple of years
ago, when I bought it, I put in a brand new Tecumseh HMSK-80 engine
instead of trying to fix the old 6 HP engine. (replacement was
trivial)

It is somewhat difficult to start. I feel that it is so because I am
not following a correct procedure and need some ideas.

I added an electric starter to this engine. (which is really great,
very helpful in bad weather). It also has a throttle (fast/slow
lever,
with the boittom slowest position being OFF), and a choke.

My symptoms is that when I start it, at cold temps like 0 F, it
sputters, runs very rough and wants me to press the fuel rubber
button
to supply extra fuel or else it dies.

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.

After a few tries like that, once it warms up a bit, it starts
running
a little better, at which point I slowly move it to a full speed
running position.

Then it runs very strong and everything works great. It is a heavy
snowblower and can get through anything. But I would like to know
how
to start these engines better.

I keep it outside, so it is as cold as ambient air, for example
yesterday it was about 0F. If a couple of minutes with a heat gun
would make a difference, I could try that. Any ideas?

i

Do you have anything that isn't military surplus G

AWEM



I have a spouse who is not military surplus

i

Least she wont admit it...

G

Gunner, who wont talk about his past relationships with his current,
either.
Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and
rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media,
which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible
to pick up a turd by the clean end.

"Ignoramus29345" wrote in
message

SNIP

Do you have anything that isn't military surplus G

AWEM



I have a spouse who is not military surplus

i

Is THAT what she told you G

AWEM

I purchased a Sears 5.5 HP generator with a Tecumseh motor, (right after
9/11), no electric start. I have no means of heating my house if the Arabs
take down the power grid. Especially when it is 30 below.
Right from the beginning (summer) it was next to impossible to start (I live
at 5300 feet ASL). I went through the manual and did exactly as directed.
Less than 4 hours on the motor, and it already has had the 3 oil changes
recommended. The Sears owners were not co-operative in any manner. More or
less said 'no warranty', no assistance. I press the red primer bulb the
recommended 5 times, and since it is an updraft type carb, I eventually get
fuel running out of the intake. It refuses to start. Since there is no
choke on these monsters, I found a rubber plug that I can hold in the intake
while pulling the rope. It will start roughly then, very roughly, and one
has to play the game and choke it and then give it air, until it finally
takes off. There has to be fuel present in the intake before the hand
choking method works. It is a single speed engine. Since I depend on this
machine in sub-freezing weather, I run it every 3 months for 20 minutes,
until the carb is dry, and then store it inside the house (empty tank). I
use stablized fuel. I have a 50 ml plastic bottle of gasoline, with an eye
dropper, on my patio. I found out that with one squirt of gasoline,
directly into the cylinder head, I can usually get it running (very roughly
at first), on first or second pull. I wish someone at Tecumseh would be
smart enough to put chokes on their mistakes. It appears that by hand
starting, there is not enough air movement in the manifold to generate the
rush needed to get sufficient gas into the cylinder. Even when hand
choking, it takes more than one pull to finally get it to coughing. I doubt
it would ever start, by any manner, if kept outside in sub-freezing
weather. I refrain from using ether, as it is hard on components. I
haven't tried propane, but it's a thought. Any experiences, or ideas?
I have a Sears 4.5 HP Tecumseh mower and it is no problem at all (summertime
of course).
Most likely, this is my last Tecumseh machine.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Tecumseh motors just plain suck.......never did make a decent motor.
Put that crappy gen set on craigs list and get rid of it and buy one
with a honda motor and be done messing around with a wanna be engine.



On Wed, 7 Feb 2007 14:20:40 -0700, "theChas."
wrote:

I purchased a Sears 5.5 HP generator with a Tecumseh motor, (right after
9/11), no electric start. I have no means of heating my house if the Arabs
take down the power grid. Especially when it is 30 below.
Right from the beginning (summer) it was next to impossible to start (I live
at 5300 feet ASL). I went through the manual and did exactly as directed.
Less than 4 hours on the motor, and it already has had the 3 oil changes
recommended. The Sears owners were not co-operative in any manner. More or
less said 'no warranty', no assistance. I press the red primer bulb the
recommended 5 times, and since it is an updraft type carb, I eventually get
fuel running out of the intake. It refuses to start. Since there is no
choke on these monsters, I found a rubber plug that I can hold in the intake
while pulling the rope. It will start roughly then, very roughly, and one
has to play the game and choke it and then give it air, until it finally
takes off. There has to be fuel present in the intake before the hand
choking method works. It is a single speed engine. Since I depend on this
machine in sub-freezing weather, I run it every 3 months for 20 minutes,
until the carb is dry, and then store it inside the house (empty tank). I
use stablized fuel. I have a 50 ml plastic bottle of gasoline, with an eye
dropper, on my patio. I found out that with one squirt of gasoline,
directly into the cylinder head, I can usually get it running (very roughly
at first), on first or second pull. I wish someone at Tecumseh would be
smart enough to put chokes on their mistakes. It appears that by hand
starting, there is not enough air movement in the manifold to generate the
rush needed to get sufficient gas into the cylinder. Even when hand
choking, it takes more than one pull to finally get it to coughing. I doubt
it would ever start, by any manner, if kept outside in sub-freezing
weather. I refrain from using ether, as it is hard on components. I
haven't tried propane, but it's a thought. Any experiences, or ideas?
I have a Sears 4.5 HP Tecumseh mower and it is no problem at all (summertime
of course).
Most likely, this is my last Tecumseh machine.



-------
I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know!

"Ignoramus29345" wrote in message
...
I have a old military surplus Bolens snowblower. A couple of years
ago, when I bought it, I put in a brand new Tecumseh HMSK-80 engine
instead of trying to fix the old 6 HP engine. (replacement was trivial)

It is somewhat difficult to start. I feel that it is so because I am
not following a correct procedure and need some ideas.

I added an electric starter to this engine. (which is really great,
very helpful in bad weather). It also has a throttle (fast/slow lever,
with the boittom slowest position being OFF), and a choke.

My symptoms is that when I start it, at cold temps like 0 F, it
sputters, runs very rough and wants me to press the fuel rubber button
to supply extra fuel or else it dies.

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.

After a few tries like that, once it warms up a bit, it starts running
a little better, at which point I slowly move it to a full speed
running position.

Then it runs very strong and everything works great. It is a heavy
snowblower and can get through anything. But I would like to know how
to start these engines better.

I keep it outside, so it is as cold as ambient air, for example
yesterday it was about 0F. If a couple of minutes with a heat gun
would make a difference, I could try that. Any ideas?

i

A few. Most seasonal items have trouble starting because they have bad gas.
Smells like turpentine. It sits for the good part of a year and evaporates
and changes chemically.

Here's what I'd do:

Drain the gas when you're through with it for the season. Squirt a couple
of squirts of 3 in 1 oil or 10w through the plug hole with the cylinder at
bottom. Rotate the flywheel a couple of times. Put the plug back in.
Nothing special on starting, except, of course (duh) to put some fresh gas
in there and hope all things rubber haven't dried out and gone to dust in
the meantime.

Before you know you will need it, move it to a half way warm place if your
wife will allow it. Maybe just put a heat lamp on it overnight. Simple.

Have you ever thought of moving to Phoenix? People there don't even know
what snowblowers are.

Steve

Probably not your issue, but I went to full synthetic oil
in my old snow blower this year. It's a lot easier to pull
start. Also it mostly starts on the first pull instead of several.

Wayne D.

I have a old military surplus Bolens snowblower. A couple of years
ago, when I bought it, I put in a brand new Tecumseh HMSK-80 engine
instead of trying to fix the old 6 HP engine. (replacement was trivial)

It is somewhat difficult to start. I feel that it is so because I am
not following a correct procedure and need some ideas.

I added an electric starter to this engine. (which is really great,
very helpful in bad weather). It also has a throttle (fast/slow lever,
with the boittom slowest position being OFF), and a choke.

My symptoms is that when I start it, at cold temps like 0 F, it
sputters, runs very rough and wants me to press the fuel rubber button
to supply extra fuel or else it dies.

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.

After a few tries like that, once it warms up a bit, it starts running
a little better, at which point I slowly move it to a full speed
running position.

Then it runs very strong and everything works great. It is a heavy
snowblower and can get through anything. But I would like to know how
to start these engines better.

I keep it outside, so it is as cold as ambient air, for example
yesterday it was about 0F. If a couple of minutes with a heat gun
would make a difference, I could try that. Any ideas?

i

theChas, I have a real aversion to these cheap generators, they are
not made to be actually used.

i

In article ,
Ignoramus29345 wrote:

I have a spouse who is not military surplus

Are you sure?

In article ,
Seth Goodman wrote:

In article , on Wed, 07
Feb 2007 09:12:38 -0600, Ignoramus29345 wrote:

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.


Try starting it at full throttle and full choke, as specified by
Tecumseh in the Operator's Manual for the HMSK80.

If it's still hard to start, the reliable way of cheating is to put an
unlit propane torch in the intake. Should start EZ and even idle with
no gas in the tank. When warm turn propane off.

On Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:02:39 -0500, Nick Hull wrote:
In article ,
Seth Goodman wrote:

In article , on Wed, 07
Feb 2007 09:12:38 -0600, Ignoramus29345 wrote:

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.


Try starting it at full throttle and full choke, as specified by
Tecumseh in the Operator's Manual for the HMSK80.

If it's still hard to start, the reliable way of cheating is to put an
unlit propane torch in the intake. Should start EZ and even idle with
no gas in the tank. When warm turn propane off.

This is really clever, I will definitely try that. I will do a lot of
experimenting tonight.

i

"Ignoramus29345" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:02:39 -0500, Nick Hull wrote:
In article ,
Seth Goodman wrote:

In article , on Wed, 07
Feb 2007 09:12:38 -0600, Ignoramus29345 wrote:

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.


Try starting it at full throttle and full choke, as specified by
Tecumseh in the Operator's Manual for the HMSK80.

If it's still hard to start, the reliable way of cheating is to put an
unlit propane torch in the intake. Should start EZ and even idle with
no gas in the tank. When warm turn propane off.

This is really clever, I will definitely try that. I will do a lot of
experimenting tonight.

i

Man, I would not have thought of that in a million years. Thanks.

Steve

Arizona, sounds like a good place, if it is anything like Oklahoma.

i

On Wed, 7 Feb 2007 13:28:25 -0800, Steve B wrote:

"Ignoramus29345" wrote in message
...
I have a old military surplus Bolens snowblower. A couple of years
ago, when I bought it, I put in a brand new Tecumseh HMSK-80 engine
instead of trying to fix the old 6 HP engine. (replacement was trivial)

It is somewhat difficult to start. I feel that it is so because I am
not following a correct procedure and need some ideas.

I added an electric starter to this engine. (which is really great,
very helpful in bad weather). It also has a throttle (fast/slow lever,
with the boittom slowest position being OFF), and a choke.

My symptoms is that when I start it, at cold temps like 0 F, it
sputters, runs very rough and wants me to press the fuel rubber button
to supply extra fuel or else it dies.

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.

After a few tries like that, once it warms up a bit, it starts running
a little better, at which point I slowly move it to a full speed
running position.

Then it runs very strong and everything works great. It is a heavy
snowblower and can get through anything. But I would like to know how
to start these engines better.

I keep it outside, so it is as cold as ambient air, for example
yesterday it was about 0F. If a couple of minutes with a heat gun
would make a difference, I could try that. Any ideas?

i

A few. Most seasonal items have trouble starting because they have bad gas.
Smells like turpentine. It sits for the good part of a year and evaporates
and changes chemically.

Here's what I'd do:

Drain the gas when you're through with it for the season. Squirt a couple
of squirts of 3 in 1 oil or 10w through the plug hole with the cylinder at
bottom. Rotate the flywheel a couple of times. Put the plug back in.
Nothing special on starting, except, of course (duh) to put some fresh gas
in there and hope all things rubber haven't dried out and gone to dust in
the meantime.

Before you know you will need it, move it to a half way warm place if your
wife will allow it. Maybe just put a heat lamp on it overnight. Simple.

Have you ever thought of moving to Phoenix? People there don't even know
what snowblowers are.

Steve

On Wed, 7 Feb 2007 14:30:00 -0800, "Steve B" wrote:


"Ignoramus29345" wrote in message
m...
On Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:02:39 -0500, Nick Hull wrote:
In article ,
Seth Goodman wrote:

In article , on Wed, 07
Feb 2007 09:12:38 -0600, Ignoramus29345 wrote:

I start it at idle speed, and tried various choke positions.


Try starting it at full throttle and full choke, as specified by
Tecumseh in the Operator's Manual for the HMSK80.

If it's still hard to start, the reliable way of cheating is to put an
unlit propane torch in the intake. Should start EZ and even idle with
no gas in the tank. When warm turn propane off.

This is really clever, I will definitely try that. I will do a lot of
experimenting tonight.

i

Man, I would not have thought of that in a million years. Thanks.

Steve

Hell....I thought everyone knew that trick. Small engines, motorcycles,
chainsaws etc etc

Gunner

"Liberalism is a philosophy of consolation for Western civilization as it commits suicide"
- James Burnham

In article ,
Gunner wrote:


If it's still hard to start, the reliable way of cheating is to put an
unlit propane torch in the intake. Should start EZ and even idle with
no gas in the tank. When warm turn propane off.

This is really clever, I will definitely try that. I will do a lot of
experimenting tonight.

i

Man, I would not have thought of that in a million years. Thanks.

Steve

Hell....I thought everyone knew that trick. Small engines, motorcycles,
chainsaws etc etc

Not quite everyone, simple tricks need to be posted occasionally

On Thu, 08 Feb 2007 06:20:30 -0500, Nick Hull wrote:

In article ,
Gunner wrote:


If it's still hard to start, the reliable way of cheating is to put an
unlit propane torch in the intake. Should start EZ and even idle with
no gas in the tank. When warm turn propane off.

This is really clever, I will definitely try that. I will do a lot of
experimenting tonight.

i

Man, I would not have thought of that in a million years. Thanks.

Steve

Hell....I thought everyone knew that trick. Small engines, motorcycles,
chainsaws etc etc

Not quite everyone, simple tricks need to be posted occasionally
Also remember the propane bottle needs to be warm. If the torch was
stored with the blower, you are out of luck.


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

In article ,
clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

On Thu, 08 Feb 2007 06:20:30 -0500, Nick Hull wrote:

In article ,
Gunner wrote:


If it's still hard to start, the reliable way of cheating is to put an
unlit propane torch in the intake. Should start EZ and even idle with
no gas in the tank. When warm turn propane off.

This is really clever, I will definitely try that. I will do a lot of
experimenting tonight.

i

Man, I would not have thought of that in a million years. Thanks.

Steve

Hell....I thought everyone knew that trick. Small engines, motorcycles,
chainsaws etc etc

Not quite everyone, simple tricks need to be posted occasionally
Also remember the propane bottle needs to be warm. If the torch was
stored with the blower, you are out of luck.

Propane has enough vapor pressure at 10 below zero, but butane would not.

On Thu, 08 Feb 2007 16:26:55 -0500, Nick Hull wrote:

In article ,
clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

On Thu, 08 Feb 2007 06:20:30 -0500, Nick Hull wrote:

In article ,
Gunner wrote:


If it's still hard to start, the reliable way of cheating is to put an
unlit propane torch in the intake. Should start EZ and even idle with
no gas in the tank. When warm turn propane off.

This is really clever, I will definitely try that. I will do a lot of
experimenting tonight.

i

Man, I would not have thought of that in a million years. Thanks.

Steve

Hell....I thought everyone knew that trick. Small engines, motorcycles,
chainsaws etc etc

Not quite everyone, simple tricks need to be posted occasionally
Also remember the propane bottle needs to be warm. If the torch was
stored with the blower, you are out of luck.

Propane has enough vapor pressure at 10 below zero, but butane would not.
Tell that to my bernzomatic torch. It will NOT light when it is very
colt. If I want to use it to light a fire I need to put it inside my
coat for a while to warm it up. Otherwize it just pops at me.
(turbotorch).
A friend uses one to start his diesel tractor when he needs to blow
out his lane after a heavy snowfall. Takes it from the house with him
inside his coat, pulls the air intake tube off the manifold, lights
the torch and props it inside the manifold for a few minutes, then
cranks the engine. Starts right up like it was a summer day.
He tried once leaving the torch in the tractor cab - no go.

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"Nick Hull" wrote in message
.. .
In article ,
Gunner wrote:


If it's still hard to start, the reliable way of cheating is to put
an
unlit propane torch in the intake. Should start EZ and even idle
with
no gas in the tank. When warm turn propane off.

This is really clever, I will definitely try that. I will do a lot of
experimenting tonight.

i

Man, I would not have thought of that in a million years. Thanks.

Steve

Hell....I thought everyone knew that trick. Small engines, motorcycles,
chainsaws etc etc

Not quite everyone, simple tricks need to be posted occasionally

I find that spraying some carburator cleaner into the manifold does the job
too. Same thing as starter fluid I guess.

In article ,
clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

Propane has enough vapor pressure at 10 below zero, but butane would not.
Tell that to my bernzomatic torch. It will NOT light when it is very
colt. If I want to use it to light a fire I need to put it inside my
coat for a while to warm it up. Otherwize it just pops at me.
(turbotorch).

True, but it works much better after compression in a cylinder

A friend uses one to start his diesel tractor when he needs to blow
out his lane after a heavy snowfall. Takes it from the house with him
inside his coat, pulls the air intake tube off the manifold, lights
the torch and props it inside the manifold for a few minutes, then
cranks the engine. Starts right up like it was a summer day.
He tried once leaving the torch in the tractor cab - no go.


I believe that, a small propane torch only has enough fuel to run a ONE
cylinder small engine, you need more for a diesel tractor.

On Fri, 09 Feb 2007 06:15:20 -0500, Nick Hull wrote:

In article ,
clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

Propane has enough vapor pressure at 10 below zero, but butane would not.
Tell that to my bernzomatic torch. It will NOT light when it is very
colt. If I want to use it to light a fire I need to put it inside my
coat for a while to warm it up. Otherwize it just pops at me.
(turbotorch).

True, but it works much better after compression in a cylinder

A friend uses one to start his diesel tractor when he needs to blow
out his lane after a heavy snowfall. Takes it from the house with him
inside his coat, pulls the air intake tube off the manifold, lights
the torch and props it inside the manifold for a few minutes, then
cranks the engine. Starts right up like it was a summer day.
He tried once leaving the torch in the tractor cab - no go.


I believe that, a small propane torch only has enough fuel to run a ONE
cylinder small engine, you need more for a diesel tractor.


Hey, not running the diesel on propane - just the torch to warm up the
intake air. You missed the point where he "lights the torch"

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