I have become a true believer in the Compact Fluorescent (CF) lamps than
replace "Edison base" standard lamps.

The problem is that ceiling fan light of the "schoolhouse" type (round
globe) will not accept any but the smallest CF.

A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF. In theory that's as
bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

In a rental property, we have two fans with small globes (8"?). The only
CF that would fit was only 5 watts. The same fixtures could take (and I
installed) 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I would MUCH rather use a CF. I
would need a CF that doesn't exceed about 3.5" in any dimension but that
puts out more 15 watts of CF light. That's not much but it's better than a
5 watt light.

John Gilmer wrote:

... A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF. In theory
that's as bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

It's close. You can measure the relative outputs with a Bunsen grease spot
photometer. Put a bulb at each end of a yardstick and move a piece of white
paper with a grease spot between them until the spot disappears, indicating
equal illumination from both sides, at which point I1/d1^2 = I2/d2^2 for
distances d1 and d2 from bulbs 1 and 2.

Nick

John Gilmer wrote:
I have become a true believer in the Compact Fluorescent (CF) lamps than
replace "Edison base" standard lamps.

The problem is that ceiling fan light of the "schoolhouse" type (round
globe) will not accept any but the smallest CF.

I have the same thing at my place. Only the small one will fit in my
globes. I put them in there anyway and though it seemed dim at first,
I am used to it now and it seems fine.

I also added a few lamps here and there if I want more light to read or
to work. I turn them off when not in use. They are mostly CF though I
admit I have also have a halogen style lamp. Though they are
expensive to buy and to keep but nothing else puts out the lumens like
the little halogens. So it is better to use the CF for your overheads
and then add more lamps as needed since there are many styles to choose
from.

wrote in message
...
John Gilmer wrote:

... A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF. In theory
that's as bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

It's close. You can measure the relative outputs with a Bunsen grease spot
photometer. Put a bulb at each end of a yardstick and move a piece of
white
paper with a grease spot between them until the spot disappears,
indicating
equal illumination from both sides, at which point I1/d1^2 = I2/d2^2 for
distances d1 and d2 from bulbs 1 and 2.

Thank you.

I might try that some day. You method "works", I guess, because the spot
causes some light to be transmitted through that otherwise would be
reflected. When the light from the back side makes up for the light
transmitted the spot goes away.

Maybe I can get my older girl to try it as a "project".

However in NO WAY does a 5 watt CF do much more than act like a bright night
light.

I also added a few lamps here and there if I want more light to read or
to work. I turn them off when not in use. They are mostly CF though I
admit I have also have a halogen style lamp. Though they are
expensive to buy and to keep but nothing else puts out the lumens like
the little halogens. So it is better to use the CF for your overheads
and then add more lamps as needed since there are many styles to choose
from.

Don't get me wrong, I "live with" the problem when I can't change things.

But in my own house, I ended up replacing two ceiling fans with "school
house" globes with fixtures with: 1) a night light base make a facited
clear plastic; 2) 4 individual lamp sockets with exposed lamps.

I end up putting 15 watt CFs in the lamp sockets. They look OK but I much
rather have a "school house" globe with, say, a 28 watt or larger CF.

John Gilmer wrote:

... A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF. In theory
that's as bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

It's close. You can measure the relative outputs with a Bunsen grease
spot photometer. Put a bulb at each end of a yardstick and move a piece
of white paper with a grease spot between them until the spot disappears,
indicating equal illumination from both sides, at which point I1/d1^2
= I2/d2^2 for distances d1 and d2 from bulbs 1 and 2.

Thank you.

You are welcome.

I might try that some day. You method "works", I guess, because the spot
causes some light to be transmitted through that otherwise would be
reflected. When the light from the back side makes up for the light
transmitted the spot goes away.

The method comes from Robert Bunsen (1811) of burner fame.

Maybe I can get my older girl to try it as a "project".

A science fair project might have a meter stick with each bulb
screwed into a 2-prong socket plugged into a Kill-A-Watt meter.

The KAW showed a 0.57 power factor for a 14 watt Commercial Electric CF from
a recent Home Depot 6-pack, vs 1 for the incandescent. For extra credit, she
might try correcting the CF's power factor to 1 with a small parallel motor
run cap, based on the measured PF, with reactance Xc = V^2PF/(Psqrt(1-PF^2))
and capacitance C = 1/(377Xc), ie 2653Psqrt(1-PF^2)/(V^2PF) microfarads, eg
C = 2653x14sqrt(1-0.57^2)/(120^2x0.57) = 3.7 uF. Motor repair shops often
discard used motor run caps.

Will this work for an electronic vs magnetic ballast?

Nick

On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:20:27 -0500, "John Gilmer"
wrote:

I have become a true believer in the Compact Fluorescent (CF) lamps than
replace "Edison base" standard lamps.

The problem is that ceiling fan light of the "schoolhouse" type (round
globe) will not accept any but the smallest CF.

A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF. In theory that's as
bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

In a rental property, we have two fans with small globes (8"?). The only
CF that would fit was only 5 watts. The same fixtures could take (and I
installed) 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I would MUCH rather use a CF. I
would need a CF that doesn't exceed about 3.5" in any dimension but that
puts out more 15 watts of CF light. That's not much but it's better than a
5 watt light.


I have one of those fans in my kitchen. I operated it without the
globe for awhile, so the CF would fit.

I have since replaced it with a smaller 13W (called 60W equivalent)
CF. This one is GE #85390.The package is labeled "NEW SMALLER SIZE!
fits more fixtures!" in white on purple on the left size. This one
fits under the globe.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

I'm just curious as a new landlord, why would you waste the money on a
rental property? Or are you paying the power bill? Or did i misunderstand
and you are the rentER?

--
Steve Barker


"John Gilmer" wrote in message
...
In a rental property, we have two fans with small globes (8"?). The only
CF that would fit was only 5 watts. The same fixtures could take (and I
installed) 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I would MUCH rather use a CF. I
would need a CF that doesn't exceed about 3.5" in any dimension but that
puts out more 15 watts of CF light. That's not much but it's better than
a
5 watt light.

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
I'm just curious as a new landlord, why would you waste the money on a
rental property? Or are you paying the power bill? Or did i
misunderstand
and you are the rentER?

I'm fixing up the property now (last tenant left a mess). For the time
being I'm paying the bills. In any case, I like to have the unit in good
shape (including good/proper lighting) when I rent it out.

That's just the way I like to do business.

I'm not a "new" landlord. I have been renting a house or a condo or both
continuously since about 1982 and "on and off" since about 1970.

I have since replaced it with a smaller 13W (called 60W equivalent)
CF. This one is GE #85390.The package is labeled "NEW SMALLER SIZE!
fits more fixtures!" in white on purple on the left size. This one
fits under the globe.

I haven't seen any 13W CF with the "smaller" label. I have been using
"small" 13W CFs for the larger school house ball but they don't work for the
smaller ones in my rental property.

I will keep looking.

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:20:27 -0500, "John Gilmer"
wrote:

I have become a true believer in the Compact Fluorescent (CF) lamps than
replace "Edison base" standard lamps.

The problem is that ceiling fan light of the "schoolhouse" type (round
globe) will not accept any but the smallest CF.

A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF.

I don't know numbers but the cfls keep getting smaller. I think I have
8 inhc spheres with 60 watt equivalent from HD and though it seems
like the bulb is actually touching the sphere, since the bulb doesn't
get what I would call hot, it doesn't matter. And after it warms up,
it seems like 60 watts to me. The walmart bulb would fit too, but it
costs more moeny and since i can't see the hd spiral through th
efrosted globe, why spend extra money?


In theory that's as
bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

In a rental property, we have two fans with small globes (8"?). The only
CF that would fit was only 5 watts. The same fixtures could take (and I
installed) 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I would MUCH rather use a CF. I
would need a CF that doesn't exceed about 3.5" in any dimension but that
puts out more 15 watts of CF light. That's not much but it's better than a
5 watt light.

Hi John,

I was discussing the relative size of CFLs in another thread and I've
copied part of our discussion here in the hope it may assist you.

Cheers,
Paul

---- Original Message ----

GE makes this claim with their T2 line and it holds true, well, at
least in part. Their 10-watt spiral (40-watt equivalent) is just 3.7
inches long and their 13-watt spiral (60-watt equivalent) is 3.9
inches. By comparison, a standard 40-watt or 60-watt A19 incandescent
bulb is approximately 4.4 inches in length (4 and 7/16 inches to be
precise).

As we move up in wattage, things start to unravel somewhat. Their
20-watt and 23-watt spirals (90 and 100-watt equivalent) are 4.8 and
5.1 inches long respectively. Their largest mini spiral (29-watts/
150-watt equivalent) is 6 inches long, whereas a standard 150-watt A21
incandescent is just a little over 5.3 inches. Be that as it may, any
table lamp with a standard size harp would accommodate any of these
bulbs and certainly the 10 and 13-watt spirals should fit a fixture
that takes a regular household incandescent.

See:
http://www.gelighting.com/na/busines...sell_sheet.pdf

For anyone looking for a 150-watt replacement that is no larger in
physical size, Osram Sylvania's CF40EL/Twist produces 2,600 lumens and
is 5.25 long. It is the same width as a 150-watt incandescent and, in
this case, just slightly shorter.

[....]

I'm fortunate the two Home Depot stores closest to me carry a good
selection of Philips products, including dimmable and three-way CFLs.
I know they stock the candle shaped CFLs but I'm unsure as to their
wattages. If you are having trouble finding any of these products,
there may be hope yet. Most local electrical/lighting distributors
have a "cash and carry" counter where you can purchase items not
normally stocked by the retail chains; so long as you have a product
code or product description (easily obtained from the manufacturer's
website) you shouldn't have a problem.


On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:20:27 -0500, "John Gilmer"
wrote:

I have become a true believer in the Compact Fluorescent (CF) lamps than
replace "Edison base" standard lamps.

The problem is that ceiling fan light of the "schoolhouse" type (round
globe) will not accept any but the smallest CF.

A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF. In theory that's as
bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

In a rental property, we have two fans with small globes (8"?). The only
CF that would fit was only 5 watts. The same fixtures could take (and I
installed) 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I would MUCH rather use a CF. I
would need a CF that doesn't exceed about 3.5" in any dimension but that
puts out more 15 watts of CF light. That's not much but it's better than a
5 watt light.

In article , John Gilmer wrote:
I have become a true believer in the Compact Fluorescent (CF) lamps than
replace "Edison base" standard lamps.

The problem is that ceiling fan light of the "schoolhouse" type (round
globe) will not accept any but the smallest CF.

A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF. In theory that's as
bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

In a rental property, we have two fans with small globes (8"?). The only
CF that would fit was only 5 watts. The same fixtures could take (and I
installed) 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I would MUCH rather use a CF. I
would need a CF that doesn't exceed about 3.5" in any dimension but that
puts out more 15 watts of CF light. That's not much but it's better than a
5 watt light.

Many 14 or so watt spiral CFs are only as long as A19 ("regular")
shape/size incandescents. I have seen 9 watt ones even smaller.

BTW, spirals of 13-15 watts do get pretty close to the brightness of 60
watt incandescents, sometimes even outshining them slightly.

- Don Klipstein )

In article ,
wrote:

The KAW showed a 0.57 power factor for a 14 watt Commercial Electric CF from
a recent Home Depot 6-pack, vs 1 for the incandescent. For extra credit, she
might try correcting the CF's power factor to 1 with a small parallel motor
run cap, based on the measured PF, with reactance Xc = V^2PF/(Psqrt(1-PF^2))
and capacitance C = 1/(377Xc), ie 2653Psqrt(1-PF^2)/(V^2PF) microfarads, eg
C = 2653x14sqrt(1-0.57^2)/(120^2x0.57) = 3.7 uF. Motor repair shops often
discard used motor run caps.

Will this work for an electronic vs magnetic ballast?

This will not work for electronic ballasts. Their low power factor is
mainly from the waveform (of the current being drawn) being rich in
harmonics by being far from a sinewave.

There are high power factor electronic ballasts, but most CFLs do not
have these because they cost more than the simpler low power factor ones.

- Don Klipstein )

In article , Paul M. Eldridge
wrote in part:

GE makes this claim with their T2 line and it holds true, well, at
least in part. Their 10-watt spiral (40-watt equivalent) is just 3.7
inches long and their 13-watt spiral (60-watt equivalent) is 3.9
inches. By comparison, a standard 40-watt or 60-watt A19 incandescent
bulb is approximately 4.4 inches in length (4 and 7/16 inches to be
precise).

As we move up in wattage, things start to unravel somewhat. Their
20-watt and 23-watt spirals (90 and 100-watt equivalent) are 4.8 and
5.1 inches long respectively. Their largest mini spiral (29-watts/
150-watt equivalent) is 6 inches long,

How many lumens does this 29 watt CF produce? So far, the brightest I
have ever seen a 30 watt CF being is only slightly brighter than a 1710
lumen 100 watt incandescent. A 150 watt 120V "standard" incandescent
produces 2880 lumens last time I checked.

- Don Klipstein )

Hi Don,

GE's 29-watt spiral is said to produce 2,250 lumens.

Sylvania's 135-watt 150A/135/SS has a rated output of 2,050 lumens
and, at the higher end, their 135-watt 150A21/135/SS produces 2,450
lumens. That would put this CFL more or less smack-dab-in-the-middle
of a 135-watt incandescent.

Sylvania's 150-watt A21/A23 incandescents range anywhere from 2,090
lumens at the low end (inside frost, rough service, 1,000 hour life)
to a high of 2,810 lumens (inside front, 750 hours). Their Standard
Frost Excel (2,500 hour life) produces 2,225 lumens.

Perhaps its closest match is the 150-watt 150A21/W/RP Soft White (750
hours) at 2,640 lumens, in which case it comes up a bit shy of the
mark (by about 390 lumens).

So although its true output is closer to a 135-watt incandescent, if
you were to replace a regular 150-watt soft white bulb with this CFL,
I doubt most people would notice any appreciable drop in light output.

Cheers,
Paul

On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 23:21:49 +0000 (UTC), (Don
Klipstein) wrote:

In article , Paul M. Eldridge
wrote in part:

GE makes this claim with their T2 line and it holds true, well, at
least in part. Their 10-watt spiral (40-watt equivalent) is just 3.7
inches long and their 13-watt spiral (60-watt equivalent) is 3.9
inches. By comparison, a standard 40-watt or 60-watt A19 incandescent
bulb is approximately 4.4 inches in length (4 and 7/16 inches to be
precise).

As we move up in wattage, things start to unravel somewhat. Their
20-watt and 23-watt spirals (90 and 100-watt equivalent) are 4.8 and
5.1 inches long respectively. Their largest mini spiral (29-watts/
150-watt equivalent) is 6 inches long,

How many lumens does this 29 watt CF produce? So far, the brightest I
have ever seen a 30 watt CF being is only slightly brighter than a 1710
lumen 100 watt incandescent. A 150 watt 120V "standard" incandescent
produces 2880 lumens last time I checked.

- Don Klipstein )

Go to HD and get the small spirals that ae equal to 60 watts.They fitin
my schoolhouse fan light
John Gilmer wrote:
I have become a true believer in the Compact Fluorescent (CF) lamps than
replace "Edison base" standard lamps.

The problem is that ceiling fan light of the "schoolhouse" type (round
globe) will not accept any but the smallest CF.

A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF. In theory that's as
bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

In a rental property, we have two fans with small globes (8"?). The only
CF that would fit was only 5 watts. The same fixtures could take (and I
installed) 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I would MUCH rather use a CF. I
would need a CF that doesn't exceed about 3.5" in any dimension but that
puts out more 15 watts of CF light. That's not much but it's better than a
5 watt light.

thanks for the reply. I meant that _I_ was the new landlord.

--
Steve Barker



"John Gilmer" wrote in message
...
I'm not a "new" landlord. I have been renting a house or a condo or both
continuously since about 1982 and "on and off" since about 1970.

In article ,
says...
John Gilmer wrote:

... A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF. In theory
that's as bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

It's close. You can measure the relative outputs with a Bunsen grease
spot photometer. Put a bulb at each end of a yardstick and move a piece
of white paper with a grease spot between them until the spot disappears,
indicating equal illumination from both sides, at which point I1/d1^2
= I2/d2^2 for distances d1 and d2 from bulbs 1 and 2.

Thank you.

You are welcome.

I might try that some day. You method "works", I guess, because the spot
causes some light to be transmitted through that otherwise would be
reflected. When the light from the back side makes up for the light
transmitted the spot goes away.

The method comes from Robert Bunsen (1811) of burner fame.

Maybe I can get my older girl to try it as a "project".

A science fair project might have a meter stick with each bulb
screwed into a 2-prong socket plugged into a Kill-A-Watt meter.

The KAW showed a 0.57 power factor for a 14 watt Commercial Electric CF from
a recent Home Depot 6-pack, vs 1 for the incandescent. For extra credit, she
might try correcting the CF's power factor to 1 with a small parallel motor
run cap, based on the measured PF, with reactance Xc = V^2PF/(Psqrt(1-PF^2))
and capacitance C = 1/(377Xc), ie 2653Psqrt(1-PF^2)/(V^2PF) microfarads, eg
C = 2653x14sqrt(1-0.57^2)/(120^2x0.57) = 3.7 uF. Motor repair shops often
discard used motor run caps.

Why would one bother? Residential customers aren't surcharged for a
poor PF. Watts is watts.

--
Keith

(Don Klipstein) wrote:

wrote:

The KAW showed a 0.57 power factor for a 14 watt Commercial Electric CF from
a recent Home Depot 6-pack, vs 1 for the incandescent. For extra credit, she
might try correcting the CF's power factor to 1 with a small parallel motor
run cap... eg C = 2653x14sqrt(1-0.57^2)/(120^2x0.57) = 3.7 uF...

Will this work for an electronic vs magnetic ballast?

This will not work for electronic ballasts. Their low power factor is
mainly from the waveform (of the current being drawn) being rich in
harmonics by being far from a sinewave.

I suppose it would help a little, esp if we add enough inductance to make
a 60 Hz tank circuit.

Nick

John Gilmer wrote:
I have become a true believer in the Compact Fluorescent (CF) lamps than
replace "Edison base" standard lamps.
I would MUCH rather use a CF.

I think you'll find fluorescent bulbs are not a good replacement in
ceiling fans and other places where the lights are on for short periods
of time. From the Department of Energy's assessment of CF lights:

"Repeatedly switching a compact fluorescent light on and off reduces
the life of the bulb. Therefore, compact fluorescent lights provide the
biggest savings when they are used to replace incandescent lights that
are used several hours per day."
(http://www.eia.doe.gov/emeu/lighting/chap3.html)

Use CFs where you need to have a light on for long stretches, such as
your living room, porch lights, etc., but not where there are short
on-off cycles such as bathrooms, bedrooms, etc.

We put CF bulbs in the kitchen, bathroom and vestibule, and they burned
out much faster than standard incandescent bulbs every single time. In
the long run, that costs more and wastes more as you contribute faster
to the landfill and manufacturing energy use.

On 12 Jan 2007 05:45:31 -0800, "Kyle" wrote:

John Gilmer wrote:
I have become a true believer in the Compact Fluorescent (CF) lamps than
replace "Edison base" standard lamps.
I would MUCH rather use a CF.

I think you'll find fluorescent bulbs are not a good replacement in
ceiling fans and other places where the lights are on for short periods
of time.

I have 2 of those fans (those with the small light globes). One is
used occasionally, for short periods of time. It has an incandescent
(smaller, called "ceiling fan bulb"). The other one is used for
several hours a day, and has the CF I posted about earlier.

From the Department of Energy's assessment of CF lights:

"Repeatedly switching a compact fluorescent light on and off reduces
the life of the bulb. Therefore, compact fluorescent lights provide the
biggest savings when they are used to replace incandescent lights that
are used several hours per day."
(http://www.eia.doe.gov/emeu/lighting/chap3.html)

Use CFs where you need to have a light on for long stretches, such as
your living room, porch lights, etc., but not where there are short
on-off cycles such as bathrooms, bedrooms, etc.

We put CF bulbs in the kitchen, bathroom and vestibule, and they burned
out much faster than standard incandescent bulbs every single time. In
the long run, that costs more and wastes more as you contribute faster
to the landfill and manufacturing energy use.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:20:27 -0500, "John Gilmer"
wrote:

I have become a true believer in the Compact Fluorescent (CF) lamps than
replace "Edison base" standard lamps.

The problem is that ceiling fan light of the "schoolhouse" type (round
globe) will not accept any but the smallest CF.

A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF. In theory that's as
bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

In a rental property, we have two fans with small globes (8"?). The only
CF that would fit was only 5 watts. The same fixtures could take (and I
installed) 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I would MUCH rather use a CF. I
would need a CF that doesn't exceed about 3.5" in any dimension but that
puts out more 15 watts of CF light. That's not much but it's better than a
5 watt light.



Some ideas that I might think about:

1. Replace the light kit of the fan with a bigger one.
2. Replace the globe for a bigger one.
3. Operate without a globe.
4. Get the 'full spectrem' CF bulbs, they look brighter for the same
wattage.

Just some guesses,

tom @ www.Japanese-Beetles.com

In article ,
says...
On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:20:27 -0500, "John Gilmer"
wrote:

I have become a true believer in the Compact Fluorescent (CF) lamps than
replace "Edison base" standard lamps.

The problem is that ceiling fan light of the "schoolhouse" type (round
globe) will not accept any but the smallest CF.

A 10" diameter globe would only take a 15 watt CF. In theory that's as
bright as a 60 watt conventional light but who is kidding!

In a rental property, we have two fans with small globes (8"?). The only
CF that would fit was only 5 watts. The same fixtures could take (and I
installed) 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I would MUCH rather use a CF. I
would need a CF that doesn't exceed about 3.5" in any dimension but that
puts out more 15 watts of CF light. That's not much but it's better than a
5 watt light.



Some ideas that I might think about:

1. Replace the light kit of the fan with a bigger one.
2. Replace the globe for a bigger one.
3. Operate without a globe.
4. Get the 'full spectrem' CF bulbs, they look brighter for the same
wattage.

Just some guesses,

1. Is there an issue (heat or otherwise) mounting a CF upside down?
2. Are they suitable in a high vibration application, such as this?

I put a CF in mine, just checking before I shut it all up again
It's over the stairs and a PITA to get to).

--
Keith

There's no problem using CFLs either base up or base down and
vibration shouldn't be an issue either (unlike most incandescents).

Cheers,
Paul

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 21:50:16 -0500, krw wrote:

1. Is there an issue (heat or otherwise) mounting a CF upside down?
2. Are they suitable in a high vibration application, such as this?

I put a CF in mine, just checking before I shut it all up again
It's over the stairs and a PITA to get to).

On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 03:37:20 GMT, Paul M. Eldridge
wrote:

There's no problem using CFLs either base up or base down and
vibration shouldn't be an issue either (unlike most incandescents).

Cheers,
Paul

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 21:50:16 -0500, krw wrote:

1. Is there an issue (heat or otherwise) mounting a CF upside down?
2. Are they suitable in a high vibration application, such as this?

I put a CF in mine, just checking before I shut it all up again
It's over the stairs and a PITA to get to).


Some CF bulbs have warnings against 'fully enclosed indoor use'. Not
really sure what this REALLY means, since I used some inside globes
and they have small vent holes in the base. I wonder if this means
like air-tight.

Follow the directions, I think even some CF bulbs are marketed for
ceiling fans too.

later,

tom @ www.BlankHelp.com

Hi Tom,

Practically speaking, I don't imagine there would be a problem using
just about any 13 to 15-watt CFL (60-watt equivalent) in this type of
application.

The Philips Marathon Universal (available at Home Depot) has an
operating range of -30C through to +60C (-22F to +140F). Although
we're told "use in recessed cans or totally enclosed indoor fixtures
could result in reduced lamp life", the accompanying comparison chart
shows this lamp is compatible with "surface mount" fixtures; the
representative picture, in this case, is of a marine-style fixture
with a fully enclosed, air-tight lens. You'll have to draw your own
conclusions.

See:
http://www.nam.lighting.philips.com/...pdf/p-3754.pdf

Please note the data sheet should read 60C, NOT 60F.

Cheers,
Paul

On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 11:58:30 -0500, Tom The Great
wrote:

Some CF bulbs have warnings against 'fully enclosed indoor use'. Not
really sure what this REALLY means, since I used some inside globes
and they have small vent holes in the base. I wonder if this means
like air-tight.

Follow the directions, I think even some CF bulbs are marketed for
ceiling fans too.

later,

tom @ www.BlankHelp.com

Tom The Great wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 03:37:20 GMT, Paul M. Eldridge
wrote:


There's no problem using CFLs either base up or base down and
vibration shouldn't be an issue either (unlike most incandescents).

Cheers,
Paul

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 21:50:16 -0500, krw wrote:


1. Is there an issue (heat or otherwise) mounting a CF upside down?
2. Are they suitable in a high vibration application, such as this?

I put a CF in mine, just checking before I shut it all up again
It's over the stairs and a PITA to get to).



Some CF bulbs have warnings against 'fully enclosed indoor use'. Not
really sure what this REALLY means, since I used some inside globes
and they have small vent holes in the base. I wonder if this means
like air-tight.

Follow the directions, I think even some CF bulbs are marketed for
ceiling fans too.

later,

tom @ www.BlankHelp.com

i believe the heat build up is reason they do not want them inclosed.
i believe the cfs can't stand the heat as reg bulbs do.

On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 18:00:15 -0500, jd karnes
wrote:

Tom The Great wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 03:37:20 GMT, Paul M. Eldridge
wrote:


There's no problem using CFLs either base up or base down and
vibration shouldn't be an issue either (unlike most incandescents).

Cheers,
Paul

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 21:50:16 -0500, krw wrote:


1. Is there an issue (heat or otherwise) mounting a CF upside down?
2. Are they suitable in a high vibration application, such as this?

I put a CF in mine, just checking before I shut it all up again
It's over the stairs and a PITA to get to).



Some CF bulbs have warnings against 'fully enclosed indoor use'. Not
really sure what this REALLY means, since I used some inside globes
and they have small vent holes in the base. I wonder if this means
like air-tight.

Follow the directions, I think even some CF bulbs are marketed for
ceiling fans too.

later,

tom @ www.BlankHelp.com

i believe the heat build up is reason they do not want them inclosed.
i believe the cfs can't stand the heat as reg bulbs do.


True, there are electronics in the CF bulb, just wondering what is
'enclosed'? Air tight? Are globe with small vent holes ok?

tom

Hi Tom,

Heat build up shouldn't be a problem if there are ventilation holes
and the CFL is in the range of 13 to 15-watts. If you're curious and
have one of those electronic indoor/outdoor thermometers, you could
stick the outdoor probe inside the globe and monitor its temperature
over a two to three hour period. If it remains below 40C (104F), you
should be fine. If it runs a little higher than this, the Philips
Marathon Universal is rated for temperatures up to 60C (140F).

Cheers,
Paul

On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 10:48:54 -0500, Tom The Great
wrote:

True, there are electronics in the CF bulb, just wondering what is
'enclosed'? Air tight? Are globe with small vent holes ok?

tom

Tom The Great wrote:

On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 18:00:15 -0500, jd karnes
wrote:


Tom The Great wrote:

On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 03:37:20 GMT, Paul M. Eldridge
wrote:



There's no problem using CFLs either base up or base down and
vibration shouldn't be an issue either (unlike most incandescents).

Cheers,
Paul

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 21:50:16 -0500, krw wrote:



1. Is there an issue (heat or otherwise) mounting a CF upside down?
2. Are they suitable in a high vibration application, such as this?

I put a CF in mine, just checking before I shut it all up again
It's over the stairs and a PITA to get to).



Some CF bulbs have warnings against 'fully enclosed indoor use'. Not
really sure what this REALLY means, since I used some inside globes
and they have small vent holes in the base. I wonder if this means
like air-tight.

Follow the directions, I think even some CF bulbs are marketed for
ceiling fans too.

later,

tom @ www.BlankHelp.com


i believe the heat build up is reason they do not want them inclosed.
i believe the cfs can't stand the heat as reg bulbs do.



True, there are electronics in the CF bulb, just wondering what is
'enclosed'? Air tight? Are globe with small vent holes ok?

tom
tom
try topbulb.com they have some good info and that is where i get mine.
i pay more for the 26 watt 6400k bulbs. i like white light not yellow,
which is 2700k.