I have a thirty-year old house. I like the paint color.

The woodwork needs touch up. I was able to get a fantastic
color match from Sherwin Williams for the latex walls after
Napko paints disappeared.

Unfortunately, I cannot find anyone who has a tint base
for oil-based semi gloss for the interior woodwork.

I have heard the rumor that environmental regulations
regarding solvent emissions has caused paint companies
to discontinue oil-based paints which may explain why
I recently could not find varnish when I needed it either.

Anyone know for sure of anyone who currently stocks oil-
based tint base for interior semi-gloss? I think somewhere
I saw an "exterior" glossy oil based paint. Would there
be a way to reduce the gloss?

Anybody have any experience with artist paints? Could they
just be watered down with mineral spirits?

Anybody know of a place that might have a stock of old
paint?

If you suggest a paint source or brand, please tell me
when you last used/saw it. I've spent a lot of time
already. I suspect somebody out there still carries it.

When I do a google search, I find a lot of advice about
not putting latex over oil-based, but nobody selling oil
based.

I saw one recommendation to use oil-based primer as as
an undercoat for latex. If I get to that, is even oil-based
primer available?

I might add that my wife forced the re-carpeting of the house
before I could address this issue. Large scale use of chemicals,
belt sanders, etc. is now precluded. Meanwhile, the new carpet
accentuates the deficiencies in the paint.

Thanks for your considered help and advice.

wrote:
I have a thirty-year old house. I like the paint color.

The woodwork needs touch up. I was able to get a fantastic
color match from Sherwin Williams for the latex walls after
Napko paints disappeared.

Unfortunately, I cannot find anyone who has a tint base
for oil-based semi gloss for the interior woodwork.

I have heard the rumor that environmental regulations
regarding solvent emissions has caused paint companies
to discontinue oil-based paints which may explain why
I recently could not find varnish when I needed it either.

Anyone know for sure of anyone who currently stocks oil-
based tint base for interior semi-gloss? I think somewhere
I saw an "exterior" glossy oil based paint. Would there
be a way to reduce the gloss?

Anybody have any experience with artist paints? Could they
just be watered down with mineral spirits?

Anybody know of a place that might have a stock of old
paint?

Probably the last thing you'd want to do is buy old paint.

If you suggest a paint source or brand, please tell me
when you last used/saw it. I've spent a lot of time
already. I suspect somebody out there still carries it.

When I do a google search, I find a lot of advice about
not putting latex over oil-based, but nobody selling oil
based.

You shouldn't put oil-based paint over latex, but latex on oil-based is
fine. If you're really concerned about it, you can put one of the new
latex primers on first than a latex top coat. The new primers are
pretty amazing - they'll stick to pretty much anything.

I saw one recommendation to use oil-based primer as as
an undercoat for latex. If I get to that, is even oil-based
primer available?

That was the typical way of doing exterior siding.

I might add that my wife forced the re-carpeting of the house
before I could address this issue. Large scale use of chemicals,
belt sanders, etc. is now precluded. Meanwhile, the new carpet
accentuates the deficiencies in the paint.

If you wanted to strip the woodwork and start fresh, something like
Peel-Away with the fabric would be a good way to go. Non-toxic,
slather it on, cover with the paper, press into the crevices, go away
for a day or two. When you peel off the fabric all of the old paint
will come off with it. Then it's just a little hand scraping and a
touch with some sandpaper.

R

wrote:

I have a thirty-year old house. I like the paint color.

The woodwork needs touch up. I was able to get a fantastic
color match from Sherwin Williams for the latex walls after
Napko paints disappeared.
....

I tried three paint companies' web sites and found at least one at
each...

Behr
http://www.behr.com/behrx/products/p...nts& catId=19

Sherwin-Williams
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_i...int/paints.jsp

Benjamin Moore
http://www.benjaminmoore.com/wrapper...ods&groupid=23

It's available all over the place; you aren't looking very hard.


wrote in message
oups.com...
:
: I have a thirty-year old house. I like the paint color.
:
: The woodwork needs touch up. I was able to get a fantastic
: color match from Sherwin Williams for the latex walls after
: Napko paints disappeared.
:
: Unfortunately, I cannot find anyone who has a tint base
: for oil-based semi gloss for the interior woodwork.
:
: I have heard the rumor that environmental regulations
: regarding solvent emissions has caused paint companies
: to discontinue oil-based paints which may explain why
: I recently could not find varnish when I needed it either.
:
: Anyone know for sure of anyone who currently stocks oil-
: based tint base for interior semi-gloss? I think somewhere
: I saw an "exterior" glossy oil based paint. Would there
: be a way to reduce the gloss?
:
: Anybody have any experience with artist paints? Could they
: just be watered down with mineral spirits?
:
: Anybody know of a place that might have a stock of old
: paint?
:
: If you suggest a paint source or brand, please tell me
: when you last used/saw it. I've spent a lot of time
: already. I suspect somebody out there still carries it.
:
: When I do a google search, I find a lot of advice about
: not putting latex over oil-based, but nobody selling oil
: based.
:
: I saw one recommendation to use oil-based primer as as
: an undercoat for latex. If I get to that, is even oil-based
: primer available?
:
: I might add that my wife forced the re-carpeting of the house
: before I could address this issue. Large scale use of
chemicals,
: belt sanders, etc. is now precluded. Meanwhile, the new carpet
: accentuates the deficiencies in the paint.
:
: Thanks for your considered help and advice.
:

Thanks. The problems are now obvious.

They don't use or sell much oil-based where I live. If they
do, they call it "Alkyd" which I thought was water-based.
I also didn't search for alkyd.

After I got a quart of Sherwin-Williams "SuperPaint" latex
wall paint, I asked the price of a quart of oil-based semi-gloss.
When he said "We only have latex," he may have meant
in the SuperPaint line. The Classic 99 paints show "oil"
as an option. You have to search the site for "oil".

You need to search for "paint OR enamel". It seems some
companies no longer want to sell "paint". Three boos for
marketing.

When you included the word "price" in your search, you exclude
Sherwin Williams products because the company site does
not list prices, and the dealers don't have websites.

I wasted time stopping by paint departments in mega-stores,
lumber companies, and hardware stores.

It all goes to show that we still need our trusty newgroups.

On 10 Sep 2005 15:32:36 -0700, scribbled this
interesting note:


I wasted time stopping by paint departments in mega-stores,
lumber companies, and hardware stores.

That was a mistake. Go to real paint store for paint, real plumbing
supply houses for plumbing materials, real lumber yards for lumber,
etc.


--
John Willis

(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

wrote:

Thanks. The problems are now obvious.

They don't use or sell much oil-based where I live.

The amount of oil-based paint sold is significantly less than
water-based anymore, that is true by popular demand.


...they call it "Alkyd" which I thought was water-based.
I also didn't search for alkyd.

....
in the SuperPaint line. The Classic 99 paints show "oil"
as an option. You have to search the site for "oil".

You need to search for "paint OR enamel". It seems some
companies no longer want to sell "paint". Three boos for
marketing.
....

No need to search at all...I simply went to the web sites and looked at
the product lineup...

wrote:
Thanks. The problems are now obvious.

They don't use or sell much oil-based where I live. If they
do, they call it "Alkyd" which I thought was water-based.
I also didn't search for alkyd.

After I got a quart of Sherwin-Williams "SuperPaint" latex
wall paint, I asked the price of a quart of oil-based semi-gloss.
When he said "We only have latex," he may have meant
in the SuperPaint line. The Classic 99 paints show "oil"
as an option. You have to search the site for "oil".

You need to search for "paint OR enamel". It seems some
companies no longer want to sell "paint". Three boos for
marketing.

When you included the word "price" in your search, you exclude
Sherwin Williams products because the company site does
not list prices, and the dealers don't have websites.

I wasted time stopping by paint departments in mega-stores,
lumber companies, and hardware stores.

I have a question for you. Why do you want to use oil paint?

If a manufacturer warns about anything when recoating, it's about
surface preparation. Cleaning the trim is mandatory, sanding isn't.
There are paint additives and liquid deglossers that will soften the
existing paint, so you can use latex.

Old school painters will claim the flowability of oil paints is
superior, but latex paints have improved so much that that is no longer
the case.

I always think it's a good idea to look to the future and minimize
headaches down the road, rather than remain locked into a dated
technology. By painting with oil paint now, instead of biting a
verrrry small bullet, you're just postponing the transition to latex.
And you're paying for that with a paint that yellows. So why oil?

R

On 10 Sep 2005 20:49:00 -0700, "RicodJour"
scribbled this interesting note:

I have a question for you. Why do you want to use oil paint?

Because I prefer it on interior wood surfaces. Yes, it can yellow over
time. But, with repeated coats and appropriate sanding in between, I
can get a finish that, so far as I know, cannot yet be obtained when
using latex enamels.

If latex paints are uniformly superior, why are they not used (except
by some do-it-yourselfers) on things like cars?

Latex paints, in some ways, just aren't as tough as oil based paints.
In other ways they are far more durable. It all depends on the
application, the experience of the painter, and the desired finish.


--
John Willis

(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

John Willis wrote:
On 10 Sep 2005 20:49:00 -0700, "RicodJour"
scribbled this interesting note:

I have a question for you. Why do you want to use oil paint?

Because I prefer it on interior wood surfaces. Yes, it can yellow over
time. But, with repeated coats and appropriate sanding in between, I
can get a finish that, so far as I know, cannot yet be obtained when
using latex enamels.

Not you. The other you, the one that I quoted, the OP.

As far as your painting technique, it sound like you are a
perfectionist and willing to spend the time. If you're going for a
furniture finish (must assume that from the repeated coats and sanding)
I wouldn't go with any regular brush applied paint, whether oil or
latex.

If latex paints are uniformly superior, why are they not used (except
by some do-it-yourselfers) on things like cars?

You equate automotive painting with painting interior wood trim? How
would your oil-based interior residential paint hold up on a car? ****
poor, I'd wager.

Latex paints, in some ways, just aren't as tough as oil based paints.
In other ways they are far more durable.

The coatings industry is changing so fast that I no longer believe that
to be true.

It all depends on the
application, the experience of the painter, and the desired finish.

True enough.

My point was that just because the builder chose to use oil-based paint
30 years ago, doesn't mean that the OP is locked into it. There have
been vast improvements in latex paints, and he should explore other
possibilities as it will make his life easier in the long run.

R

RicodJour wrote:
wrote:

Thanks. The problems are now obvious.

They don't use or sell much oil-based where I live. If they
do, they call it "Alkyd" which I thought was water-based.
I also didn't search for alkyd.

After I got a quart of Sherwin-Williams "SuperPaint" latex
wall paint, I asked the price of a quart of oil-based semi-gloss.
When he said "We only have latex," he may have meant
in the SuperPaint line. The Classic 99 paints show "oil"
as an option. You have to search the site for "oil".

You need to search for "paint OR enamel". It seems some
companies no longer want to sell "paint". Three boos for
marketing.

When you included the word "price" in your search, you exclude
Sherwin Williams products because the company site does
not list prices, and the dealers don't have websites.

I wasted time stopping by paint departments in mega-stores,
lumber companies, and hardware stores.


I have a question for you. Why do you want to use oil paint?

If a manufacturer warns about anything when recoating, it's about
surface preparation. Cleaning the trim is mandatory, sanding isn't.
There are paint additives and liquid deglossers that will soften the
existing paint, so you can use latex.

Old school painters will claim the flowability of oil paints is
superior, but latex paints have improved so much that that is no longer
the case.

I always think it's a good idea to look to the future and minimize
headaches down the road, rather than remain locked into a dated
technology. By painting with oil paint now, instead of biting a
verrrry small bullet, you're just postponing the transition to latex.
And you're paying for that with a paint that yellows. So why oil?

R


Noticed your comments so here are mine.

Some paints say that you must sand semi-gloss or
glossy surfaces and that chemical deglossers are
not acceptable.

I'm not expert and probably not a very good
painter, but I have never found a latex that has
the leveling of a good oil paint. Maybe an expert
painter can get a good glossy surface with a
latex, I can't and I'll bet there are others that
can't either. Another factor is blocking. Yeah,
if you let it dry long enough (for upto a month
while the paint really cures) some latex paints
are pretty good, but they aren't like oil paints.


Don't know what the future has to do with
selecting latex instead of oil. In fact, if
you've got oil, it makes more sense to stay with
oil if you can. Let someone else transition (if
they ever do. Sure, I'm using latex on doors and
oil painted trim (mostly to avoid smell problems,
not mine). On the doors, I used a foam roller and
the doors look pretty good (partly because they
have a texture). I couldn't use a foam roller on
the smooth trim (don't ask why), but the trim has
plenty of brush marks. Part of this is because I
can't paint fast enough and accurate enough, to
get good leveling. One factor I noticed is that
the third door trim in a sequence after starting
looks detectably worse than the first door.
Why? probably because I get tired and paint
slower, but mostly likely because the paint is
drying and clogging the brush. That wouldn't
happen with oil, or at least in any detectable
way. But what the hell, brush marks are pretty
common now, so nobody will particularly notice it,
since the standard is now much lower. Oil paint
isn't dated because it is worse, it's dated
because the standard has been lowered.

On 11 Sep 2005 11:03:31 -0700, "RicodJour"
scribbled this interesting note:

My point was that just because the builder chose to use oil-based paint
30 years ago, doesn't mean that the OP is locked into it. There have
been vast improvements in latex paints, and he should explore other
possibilities as it will make his life easier in the long run.

I agree. I have a friend who is extremely sensitive to many of the
chemicals found in everyday life these days. For her an oil based
paint or varnish simply is not an option for any interior
applications, and some of the water based products cause her problems
as well (water based polyurethane varnish, for example.)

There are many reasons why someone may want to use a latex paint.
Unfortunately most of them are from people who think that just because
s/he can hold a paint brush in his/her hand, that s/he is
automatically a painter!:~)

And yes, when it comes to the quality of the finish on most of my
projects, I tend to be perfectionistic.


--
John Willis

(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Prior to dipping the brush into a finish I precondition the brush by
dipping the bristles up to the ferrule in the proper solvent. Stops
the paint from drying near the ferrule making it stiff and helps a lot
in cleaning.

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 21:11:25 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:

Why? probably because I get tired and paint
slower, but mostly likely because the paint is
drying and clogging the brush.