RicodJour wrote:
wrote:
Thanks. The problems are now obvious.
They don't use or sell much oil-based where I live. If they
do, they call it "Alkyd" which I thought was water-based.
I also didn't search for alkyd.
After I got a quart of Sherwin-Williams "SuperPaint" latex
wall paint, I asked the price of a quart of oil-based semi-gloss.
When he said "We only have latex," he may have meant
in the SuperPaint line. The Classic 99 paints show "oil"
as an option. You have to search the site for "oil".
You need to search for "paint OR enamel". It seems some
companies no longer want to sell "paint". Three boos for
marketing.
When you included the word "price" in your search, you exclude
Sherwin Williams products because the company site does
not list prices, and the dealers don't have websites.
I wasted time stopping by paint departments in mega-stores,
lumber companies, and hardware stores.
I have a question for you. Why do you want to use oil paint?
If a manufacturer warns about anything when recoating, it's about
surface preparation. Cleaning the trim is mandatory, sanding isn't.
There are paint additives and liquid deglossers that will soften the
existing paint, so you can use latex.
Old school painters will claim the flowability of oil paints is
superior, but latex paints have improved so much that that is no longer
the case.
I always think it's a good idea to look to the future and minimize
headaches down the road, rather than remain locked into a dated
technology. By painting with oil paint now, instead of biting a
verrrry small bullet, you're just postponing the transition to latex.
And you're paying for that with a paint that yellows. So why oil?
R
Noticed your comments so here are mine.
Some paints say that you must sand semi-gloss or
glossy surfaces and that chemical deglossers are
not acceptable.
I'm not expert and probably not a very good
painter, but I have never found a latex that has
the leveling of a good oil paint. Maybe an expert
painter can get a good glossy surface with a
latex, I can't and I'll bet there are others that
can't either. Another factor is blocking. Yeah,
if you let it dry long enough (for upto a month
while the paint really cures) some latex paints
are pretty good, but they aren't like oil paints.
Don't know what the future has to do with
selecting latex instead of oil. In fact, if
you've got oil, it makes more sense to stay with
oil if you can. Let someone else transition (if
they ever do. Sure, I'm using latex on doors and
oil painted trim (mostly to avoid smell problems,
not mine). On the doors, I used a foam roller and
the doors look pretty good (partly because they
have a texture). I couldn't use a foam roller on
the smooth trim (don't ask why), but the trim has
plenty of brush marks. Part of this is because I
can't paint fast enough and accurate enough, to
get good leveling. One factor I noticed is that
the third door trim in a sequence after starting
looks detectably worse than the first door.
Why? probably because I get tired and paint
slower, but mostly likely because the paint is
drying and clogging the brush. That wouldn't
happen with oil, or at least in any detectable
way. But what the hell, brush marks are pretty
common now, so nobody will particularly notice it,
since the standard is now much lower. Oil paint
isn't dated because it is worse, it's dated
because the standard has been lowered.