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  #1   Report Post  
Dave Solly
 
Posts: n/a
Default AC question

I have lived in this house since it was new, 20 years ago. This past
week, during the late afternoon, I would get condensation coming from the
air outlet closest to the air handler and right after the coil. I
remember reading on this group that this is probably caused by icing of
the coil. remembering that low air movement across the coil could cause
this, I changed the filter and this time used a filter that would allow
more flow ( I had one of those super duper ones that wouldn't let any
pollen through). For the next day or so, that seemed to fix the problem.
Now today, It has started again. I turned the AC off for about an hour,
then turned it back on and no more condensation dripping from the outlet.
I know, however, that it will probably return in another couple of hours.
It is presently 100 degrees outside. The humidity is about 40%. Inside
the temp is 77 degrees with a humidity of about 33%.

This is the situation. The compressor is out side. Everything else is
inside in the attic. Over the life of the AC, the filters have NOT be
changed out on a regular basis. For the first 15 years or so, I used the
el-chepo filters. Usually, when I did remember to change them, they were
clogged up with dust. Last year I had someone come out to do a checkup.
This was the first time in about 10 years. He measured the flow from the
vents and used the gauges (I have no idea what the measurements were but
he said the readings all looked good). He also checked the temp of the
air coming out of the vents. All was good for the unit I had. He of
course tried to sell me a new high effency unit, but when we finished
talking, the payback would be after I was dead.

So now I'm thinking that one of two things is wrong. Either the coil is
clogged up and won't allow enough air to flow through the coil and it
therefore freezes up, or the freon level is low(?). There seems to be
good air flow coming from the vents and the air is cool, but can the air
get around the coil? Or is it possible that some of the coil is clogged
and that's where the ice starts to form, and then it just gets worse from
there?

I know I'm going to have to call an AC guy out, but I'd like to have an
idea of what else the problem could be.

Thanks.

Dave



  #2   Report Post  
User Example
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Low freon will cause it to ice up and that will cause a reduction in
flow. To test, let the A/C sit turned off for a while until it has
thawed. You can run the fan without the A/C on to help it thaw out
faster. If the air flow returns eventually then you can rule out low flow.


Dave Solly wrote:
I have lived in this house since it was new, 20 years ago. This past
week, during the late afternoon, I would get condensation coming from the
air outlet closest to the air handler and right after the coil. I
remember reading on this group that this is probably caused by icing of
the coil. remembering that low air movement across the coil could cause
this, I changed the filter and this time used a filter that would allow
more flow ( I had one of those super duper ones that wouldn't let any
pollen through). For the next day or so, that seemed to fix the problem.
Now today, It has started again. I turned the AC off for about an hour,
then turned it back on and no more condensation dripping from the outlet.
I know, however, that it will probably return in another couple of hours.
It is presently 100 degrees outside. The humidity is about 40%. Inside
the temp is 77 degrees with a humidity of about 33%.

This is the situation. The compressor is out side. Everything else is
inside in the attic. Over the life of the AC, the filters have NOT be
changed out on a regular basis. For the first 15 years or so, I used the
el-chepo filters. Usually, when I did remember to change them, they were
clogged up with dust. Last year I had someone come out to do a checkup.
This was the first time in about 10 years. He measured the flow from the
vents and used the gauges (I have no idea what the measurements were but
he said the readings all looked good). He also checked the temp of the
air coming out of the vents. All was good for the unit I had. He of
course tried to sell me a new high effency unit, but when we finished
talking, the payback would be after I was dead.

So now I'm thinking that one of two things is wrong. Either the coil is
clogged up and won't allow enough air to flow through the coil and it
therefore freezes up, or the freon level is low(?). There seems to be
good air flow coming from the vents and the air is cool, but can the air
get around the coil? Or is it possible that some of the coil is clogged
and that's where the ice starts to form, and then it just gets worse from
there?

I know I'm going to have to call an AC guy out, but I'd like to have an
idea of what else the problem could be.

Thanks.

Dave



  #3   Report Post  
On My Way
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Check your t-stat settings as well

When a unit stops working: say from the filter and someone will usally
turn the t-stat down thinking that will make the air colder. That will
also ice up the coil as well and since you changed the air filter it may
have started working again but now it is to low.

Just a thought


--
On My Way
------------------------------------------------------------------------
On My Way's Profile: http://www.homeplot.com/member.php?userid=13
View this thread: http://www.homeplot.com/showthread.php?t=57435

  #4   Report Post  
Carolina Breeze HVAC
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Dave Solly" wrote in message
...
I have lived in this house since it was new, 20 years ago. This past
week, during the late afternoon, I would get condensation coming from the
air outlet closest to the air handler and right after the coil. I
remember reading on this group that this is probably caused by icing of
the coil. remembering that low air movement across the coil could cause
this, I changed the filter and this time used a filter that would allow
more flow ( I had one of those super duper ones that wouldn't let any
pollen through). For the next day or so, that seemed to fix the problem.
Now today, It has started again. I turned the AC off for about an hour,
then turned it back on and no more condensation dripping from the outlet.
I know, however, that it will probably return in another couple of hours.
It is presently 100 degrees outside. The humidity is about 40%. Inside
the temp is 77 degrees with a humidity of about 33%.

This is the situation. The compressor is out side. Everything else is
inside in the attic. Over the life of the AC, the filters have NOT be
changed out on a regular basis. For the first 15 years or so, I used the
el-chepo filters. Usually, when I did remember to change them, they were
clogged up with dust. Last year I had someone come out to do a checkup.
This was the first time in about 10 years. He measured the flow from the
vents and used the gauges (I have no idea what the measurements were but
he said the readings all looked good). He also checked the temp of the
air coming out of the vents. All was good for the unit I had. He of
course tried to sell me a new high effency unit, but when we finished
talking, the payback would be after I was dead.

So now I'm thinking that one of two things is wrong. Either the coil is
clogged up and won't allow enough air to flow through the coil and it
therefore freezes up, or the freon level is low(?). There seems to be
good air flow coming from the vents and the air is cool, but can the air
get around the coil? Or is it possible that some of the coil is clogged
and that's where the ice starts to form, and then it just gets worse from
there?

I know I'm going to have to call an AC guy out, but I'd like to have an
idea of what else the problem could be.

Thanks.

Dave




Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too
low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does NADA...the
system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing on a
properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD.

Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see it
from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged
coil....DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE
INSPECTS THE COIL!!!!
Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and
start juicing the unit..they never go inside, never take a lineset temp,
never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of
that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they start
to dump refrigerant into the unit and then, with NO WAY to know what they
put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for 3lbs
of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb for
it.
Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the pressure
readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those pressures...mean
NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower
wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow,
means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower pressures.
IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap
properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech
look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna
know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp
readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company
will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use a
detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of
moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS, or
LeBold, that wont happen anyway.
9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in seconds,
not hours normally.

Now...things you want to see..

1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed.
2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors
BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant.
3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much he
put in....
4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant.

You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says, by
pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or subcool,
and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap.

Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and dont
do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL


  #5   Report Post  
Dave Solly
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in
:


"Dave Solly" wrote in message
...
I have lived in this house since it was new, 20 years ago. This past
week, during the late afternoon, I would get condensation coming from
the air outlet closest to the air handler and right after the coil. I
remember reading on this group that this is probably caused by icing
of the coil. remembering that low air movement across the coil could
cause this, I changed the filter and this time used a filter that
would allow more flow ( I had one of those super duper ones that
wouldn't let any pollen through). For the next day or so, that seemed
to fix the problem. Now today, It has started again. I turned the AC
off for about an hour, then turned it back on and no more
condensation dripping from the outlet. I know, however, that it will
probably return in another couple of hours. It is presently 100
degrees outside. The humidity is about 40%. Inside the temp is 77
degrees with a humidity of about 33%.

This is the situation. The compressor is out side. Everything else is
inside in the attic. Over the life of the AC, the filters have NOT be
changed out on a regular basis. For the first 15 years or so, I used
the el-chepo filters. Usually, when I did remember to change them,
they were clogged up with dust. Last year I had someone come out to
do a checkup. This was the first time in about 10 years. He measured
the flow from the vents and used the gauges (I have no idea what the
measurements were but he said the readings all looked good). He also
checked the temp of the air coming out of the vents. All was good for
the unit I had. He of course tried to sell me a new high effency
unit, but when we finished talking, the payback would be after I was
dead.

So now I'm thinking that one of two things is wrong. Either the coil
is clogged up and won't allow enough air to flow through the coil and
it therefore freezes up, or the freon level is low(?). There seems to
be good air flow coming from the vents and the air is cool, but can
the air get around the coil? Or is it possible that some of the coil
is clogged and that's where the ice starts to form, and then it just
gets worse from there?

I know I'm going to have to call an AC guy out, but I'd like to have
an idea of what else the problem could be.

Thanks.

Dave




Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too
low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does
NADA...the system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT
cause freezing on a properly charged and operational unit in summer
temps...PERIOD.

Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to
see it from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming
clogged coil....DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE
UNIT TILL HE INSPECTS THE COIL!!!!
Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank
and start juicing the unit..they never go inside, never take a lineset
temp, never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never
do any of that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a
scale, they start to dump refrigerant into the unit and then, with NO
WAY to know what they put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its
working, and charge you for 3lbs of refrigerant that they got for next
to nothing and charge you $45 a lb for it.
Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the
pressure readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those
pressures...mean NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps
anyway) A dirty blower wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of
airflow..lack of airflow, means lack of heat being transfered to the
coil, and thus, lower pressures. IF the units not been serviced, its
worth your while to get the evap properly cleaned, the condensor
properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech look for the issue..chances
are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna know is to check the
coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp readings for
starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company will check
the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use a
detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of
moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like
CPS, or LeBold, that wont happen anyway.
9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in
seconds, not hours normally.

Now...things you want to see..

1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed.
2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors
BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant.
3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how
much he put in....
4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant.

You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he
says, by pressure, you can tell him to get on down the
road..superheat, or subcool, and HE wont know till he checks your
metering device in the evap.

Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants,
and dont do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL




Thanks for the info Steve. I'm printing it out.



  #6   Report Post  
Stormin Mormon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I would think that if the airflow returns after thaw, that low airflow
mighta been the problem in the first place. Hard to tell without gage and
temp readings.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"User Example" wrote in message
.. .
Low freon will cause it to ice up and that will cause a reduction in
flow. To test, let the A/C sit turned off for a while until it has
thawed. You can run the fan without the A/C on to help it thaw out
faster. If the air flow returns eventually then you can rule out low flow.



  #7   Report Post  
Stormin Mormon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

A call for cooling (when the room is 79 and the stat is on 76) is exactly
the same as a call for cooling hwen the room is 79, and the stat is set for
58.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"On My Way" wrote in message
...

Check your t-stat settings as well

When a unit stops working: say from the filter and someone will usally
turn the t-stat down thinking that will make the air colder. That will
also ice up the coil as well and since you changed the air filter it may
have started working again but now it is to low.

Just a thought


--
On My Way


  #8   Report Post  
RP
 
Posts: n/a
Default



Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:

"Dave Solly" wrote in message
...

I have lived in this house since it was new, 20 years ago. This past
week, during the late afternoon, I would get condensation coming from the
air outlet closest to the air handler and right after the coil. I
remember reading on this group that this is probably caused by icing of
the coil. remembering that low air movement across the coil could cause
this, I changed the filter and this time used a filter that would allow
more flow ( I had one of those super duper ones that wouldn't let any
pollen through). For the next day or so, that seemed to fix the problem.
Now today, It has started again. I turned the AC off for about an hour,
then turned it back on and no more condensation dripping from the outlet.
I know, however, that it will probably return in another couple of hours.
It is presently 100 degrees outside. The humidity is about 40%. Inside
the temp is 77 degrees with a humidity of about 33%.

This is the situation. The compressor is out side. Everything else is
inside in the attic. Over the life of the AC, the filters have NOT be
changed out on a regular basis. For the first 15 years or so, I used the
el-chepo filters. Usually, when I did remember to change them, they were
clogged up with dust. Last year I had someone come out to do a checkup.
This was the first time in about 10 years. He measured the flow from the
vents and used the gauges (I have no idea what the measurements were but
he said the readings all looked good). He also checked the temp of the
air coming out of the vents. All was good for the unit I had. He of
course tried to sell me a new high effency unit, but when we finished
talking, the payback would be after I was dead.

So now I'm thinking that one of two things is wrong. Either the coil is
clogged up and won't allow enough air to flow through the coil and it
therefore freezes up, or the freon level is low(?). There seems to be
good air flow coming from the vents and the air is cool, but can the air
get around the coil? Or is it possible that some of the coil is clogged
and that's where the ice starts to form, and then it just gets worse from
there?

I know I'm going to have to call an AC guy out, but I'd like to have an
idea of what else the problem could be.

Thanks.

Dave





Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too
low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does NADA...the
system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing on a
properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD.

Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see it
from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged
coil....DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE
INSPECTS THE COIL!!!!
Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and
start juicing the unit..they never go inside, never take a lineset temp,
never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of
that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they start
to dump refrigerant into the unit and then, with NO WAY to know what they
put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for 3lbs
of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb for
it.
Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the pressure
readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those pressures...mean
NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower
wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow,
means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower pressures.
IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap
properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech
look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna
know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp
readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company
will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use a
detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of
moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS, or
LeBold, that wont happen anyway.
9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in seconds,
not hours normally.

Now...things you want to see..

1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed.
2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors
BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant.
3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much he
put in....
4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant.

You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says, by
pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or subcool,
and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap.

Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and dont
do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL


You should save this one as a template. Will save retyping it over and
over. Very thorough.

hvacrmedic

  #9   Report Post  
Stormin Mormon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:


Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too
low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does

NADA...the
system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing on

a
properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD.

CY: Ignore, NADA, NOT..... three negatives.


Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see it
from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged
coil....

CY: Impossbile, lack. two more negatives.

DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE
INSPECTS THE COIL!!!!

CY: More negative energy.

Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and
start juicing the unit..

CY: Mind reading. And critizing the other workers. More negative energy.

they never go inside, never take a lineset temp,
never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of
that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they

start
to dump refrigerant into the unit and then,

CY: I read six negatives, here.

with NO WAY to know what they
put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for

3lbs
of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb

for
it.

CY: More mind reading. More criticizing the other guy.

Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the

pressure
readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those

pressures...mean
NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower
wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow,
means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower

pressures.
IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap
properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech
look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna
know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp
readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company
will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use

a
detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of
moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS,

or
LeBold, that wont happen anyway.
9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in seconds,
not hours normally.

CY: Ah, now some information. Shame the reader had to wade through so much
negative energy to get here. If anyone got this far. It's clear that your
main game is critizing others.


Now...things you want to see..

1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed.
2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors
BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant.
3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much

he
put in....
4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant.

You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says,

by
pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or subcool,
and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap.

Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and

dont
do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL

CY: More instruction. Shame you had to dump so much negative energy on
everyone to get here.

You should save this one as a template. Will save retyping it over and
over. Very thorough.
CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would
anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns?

hvacrmedic


  #10   Report Post  
Carolina Breeze HVAC
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:


Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too
low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does

NADA...the
system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing
on

a
properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD.

CY: Ignore, NADA, NOT..... three negatives.


Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do
you own?
How do you check compressor windings?
Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be a
tech....lol...



Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see
it
from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged
coil....

CY: Impossbile, lack. two more negatives.


You stupid incompetent moron....suggest you learn how to read....that wasnt
negative..this is....you are impossible to train...


DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE
INSPECTS THE COIL!!!!

CY: More negative energy.


Ummm...no.
Its negative to your type..the untrained, unwilling to learn kind that isnt
licenced....and has admitted to putting used parts on your so called
customers units.


Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and
start juicing the unit..

CY: Mind reading. And critizing the other workers. More negative energy.


No...thats a fact, and I bet I nailed you on the head.
What brand and model scale do you use Chris?


they never go inside, never take a lineset temp,
never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of
that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they

start
to dump refrigerant into the unit and then,

CY: I read six negatives, here.


I read that I just nailed how you charge a unit.

with NO WAY to know what they
put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for

3lbs
of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb

for
it.

CY: More mind reading. More criticizing the other guy.


Whassa matter Chris? Really ****es you off that you have been called out
time and time again, and now, your charging techiques have been uncovered?


Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the

pressure
readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those

pressures...mean
NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower
wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow,
means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower

pressures.
IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap
properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech
look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna
know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp
readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company
will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use

a
detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of
moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS,

or
LeBold, that wont happen anyway.
9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in
seconds,
not hours normally.

CY: Ah, now some information. Shame the reader had to wade through so much
negative energy to get here. If anyone got this far. It's clear that your
main game is critizing others.


No...just putting the hacks out....get used to it bubba...
See Chris, the bad thing is that there are people out there like you....the
average homeowner has no clue the things that need to be done, so when
someone like you comes out, they think, wow, hes got it running...and all
you did was keep them stupid to what you did...need I remind you about your
capacitor story????
Educate the homeowner, the hacks will find other avenues.



Now...things you want to see..

1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed.
2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors
BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant.
3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much

he
put in....
4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant.

You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says,

by
pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or
subcool,
and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap.

Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and

dont
do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL

CY: More instruction. Shame you had to dump so much negative energy on
everyone to get here.


You learned something? Amazing.
Shame you continue to lie to everyone....more negative energy that I am
positive about.


You should save this one as a template. Will save retyping it over and
over. Very thorough.
CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would
anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns?


Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal with
it Chris.
Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like you
that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what
they lied to the customer about.

BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very
un-moron..err..mormom post you made there..
Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also
include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all
how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the hopes
it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could
charge for.

BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a
field day with you...

hvacrmedic






  #11   Report Post  
Stormin Mormon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Generally, people with jobs don't spend this much time on the computer. I
don't have the time to rebutt each and every accusation. Why don't you make
some more vicious accusations? You sure are revealing your true personality.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:


Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too
low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does

NADA...the
system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing
on

a
properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD.

CY: Ignore, NADA, NOT..... three negatives.


Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do
you own?
How do you check compressor windings?
Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be a
tech....lol...



Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see
it
from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged
coil....

CY: Impossbile, lack. two more negatives.


You stupid incompetent moron....suggest you learn how to read....that wasnt
negative..this is....you are impossible to train...


DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE
INSPECTS THE COIL!!!!

CY: More negative energy.


Ummm...no.
Its negative to your type..the untrained, unwilling to learn kind that isnt
licenced....and has admitted to putting used parts on your so called
customers units.


Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and
start juicing the unit..

CY: Mind reading. And critizing the other workers. More negative energy.


No...thats a fact, and I bet I nailed you on the head.
What brand and model scale do you use Chris?


they never go inside, never take a lineset temp,
never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of
that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they

start
to dump refrigerant into the unit and then,

CY: I read six negatives, here.


I read that I just nailed how you charge a unit.

with NO WAY to know what they
put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for

3lbs
of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb

for
it.

CY: More mind reading. More criticizing the other guy.


Whassa matter Chris? Really ****es you off that you have been called out
time and time again, and now, your charging techiques have been uncovered?


Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the

pressure
readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those

pressures...mean
NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower
wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow,
means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower

pressures.
IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap
properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech
look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna
know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp
readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company
will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use

a
detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of
moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS,

or
LeBold, that wont happen anyway.
9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in
seconds,
not hours normally.

CY: Ah, now some information. Shame the reader had to wade through so much
negative energy to get here. If anyone got this far. It's clear that your
main game is critizing others.


No...just putting the hacks out....get used to it bubba...
See Chris, the bad thing is that there are people out there like you....the
average homeowner has no clue the things that need to be done, so when
someone like you comes out, they think, wow, hes got it running...and all
you did was keep them stupid to what you did...need I remind you about your
capacitor story????
Educate the homeowner, the hacks will find other avenues.



Now...things you want to see..

1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed.
2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors
BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant.
3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much

he
put in....
4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant.

You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says,

by
pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or
subcool,
and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap.

Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and

dont
do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL

CY: More instruction. Shame you had to dump so much negative energy on
everyone to get here.


You learned something? Amazing.
Shame you continue to lie to everyone....more negative energy that I am
positive about.


You should save this one as a template. Will save retyping it over and
over. Very thorough.
CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would
anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns?


Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal with
it Chris.
Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like you
that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what
they lied to the customer about.

BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very
un-moron..err..mormom post you made there..
Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also
include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all
how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the hopes
it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could
charge for.

BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a
field day with you...

hvacrmedic





  #12   Report Post  
Jake
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do
you own?


Hey... I've got a M'Egger.... it was made by Ronco and sold in K-Marts
nationwide in the '70s. It made deviled eggs or something... do you know
where I can get parts?


How do you check compressor windings?


Why, you look to see if they've become 'unwound', don't you (-;.

Jake

  #13   Report Post  
Tekkie®
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Carolina Breeze HVAC posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

What brand and model scale do you use Chris?

He's got the Health O Meter 300. The one like in doctors offices with bar
balance. It's in the back of the Pinto somewhere bent like a pretzel and due
to be recalibrated 75 years ago...
--

Tekkie
  #14   Report Post  
Tekkie®
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Jake posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.


Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do
you own?


Hey... I've got a M'Egger.... it was made by Ronco and sold in K-Marts
nationwide in the '70s. It made deviled eggs or something... do you know
where I can get parts?

M'Donalds might have parts for the M'Egger. Stumped might have some in the
back of the Pinto wagon that he can cobble together from his filed down fitz
all breakers.

How do you check compressor windings?


Why, you look to see if they've become 'unwound', don't you (-;.


I thought Stumped wound the ol nylon rope round the sheave and yanked like
crazy. I might be wrong but I highly doubt it.

Jake



--

Tekkie
  #15   Report Post  
Oscar_Lives
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
Carolina Breeze HVAC posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

What brand and model scale do you use Chris?

He's got the Health O Meter 300. The one like in doctors offices with bar
balance. It's in the back of the Pinto somewhere bent like a pretzel and
due
to be recalibrated 75 years ago...
--

Tekkie


That's better than the one I have in my bathroom. Mine just says "one at a
time, please" when I get on it.




  #16   Report Post  
Stormin Mormon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

You have been consistently inaccurate. If memory serves, I wrote that I
didn't know what level of megohms indicates a bad compresor.

If you are this inaccurate when the information is on your screen, I
question if you can do anything else. Can you drive? Handle money? I sure
hope you don't go out in the field and fix peoples heating or AC.

You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news groups to
the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints
50 East North Temple
Salt Lake City, UT, 84510

I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for me. If
they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and
extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:


Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do
you own?
How do you check compressor windings?
Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be a
tech....lol...

CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would
anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns?


Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal with
it Chris.
Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like you
that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what
they lied to the customer about.

BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very
un-moron..err..mormom post you made there..
Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also
include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all
how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the hopes
it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could
charge for.

BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a
field day with you...



  #17   Report Post  
Carolina Breeze HVAC
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Generally, people with jobs don't spend this much time on the computer. I
don't have the time to rebutt each and every accusation. Why don't you
make
some more vicious accusations? You sure are revealing your true
personality.


In your apparent hurry to try in vain to make me feel bad, you missed the
post, altho I think you replied to it, where I stated, I was taking the day
off. See....as someone that ISNT a one man band, someone that actually OWNS
the company, and hires first year techs that know more than you do, I dont
HAVE to go out every day and lie and cheat like YOU do to make a living.

My true personality you would not like Chris...its actually a nice guy, and
anyone in here that knows me, knows that.

You only have the words to deal with....be glad your sorry hacking, theiving
ass isnt here in NC...I would personally make sure you got locked up on a
class F felony for the **** you do.


--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
.
.


"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:


Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too
low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does

NADA...the
system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing
on

a
properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD.

CY: Ignore, NADA, NOT..... three negatives.


Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do
you own?
How do you check compressor windings?
Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be
a
tech....lol...



Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see
it
from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged
coil....

CY: Impossbile, lack. two more negatives.


You stupid incompetent moron....suggest you learn how to read....that
wasnt
negative..this is....you are impossible to train...


DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE
INSPECTS THE COIL!!!!

CY: More negative energy.


Ummm...no.
Its negative to your type..the untrained, unwilling to learn kind that
isnt
licenced....and has admitted to putting used parts on your so called
customers units.


Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and
start juicing the unit..

CY: Mind reading. And critizing the other workers. More negative energy.


No...thats a fact, and I bet I nailed you on the head.
What brand and model scale do you use Chris?


they never go inside, never take a lineset temp,
never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any
of
that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they

start
to dump refrigerant into the unit and then,

CY: I read six negatives, here.


I read that I just nailed how you charge a unit.

with NO WAY to know what they
put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for

3lbs
of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb

for
it.

CY: More mind reading. More criticizing the other guy.


Whassa matter Chris? Really ****es you off that you have been called out
time and time again, and now, your charging techiques have been uncovered?


Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the

pressure
readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those

pressures...mean
NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower
wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow,
means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower

pressures.
IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap
properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech
look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes
gonna
know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp
readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company
will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and
use

a
detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of
moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like
CPS,

or
LeBold, that wont happen anyway.
9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in
seconds,
not hours normally.

CY: Ah, now some information. Shame the reader had to wade through so
much
negative energy to get here. If anyone got this far. It's clear that your
main game is critizing others.


No...just putting the hacks out....get used to it bubba...
See Chris, the bad thing is that there are people out there like
you....the
average homeowner has no clue the things that need to be done, so when
someone like you comes out, they think, wow, hes got it running...and all
you did was keep them stupid to what you did...need I remind you about
your
capacitor story????
Educate the homeowner, the hacks will find other avenues.



Now...things you want to see..

1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed.
2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors
BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant.
3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much

he
put in....
4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant.

You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says,

by
pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or
subcool,
and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap.

Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and

dont
do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL

CY: More instruction. Shame you had to dump so much negative energy on
everyone to get here.


You learned something? Amazing.
Shame you continue to lie to everyone....more negative energy that I am
positive about.


You should save this one as a template. Will save retyping it over and
over. Very thorough.
CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would
anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns?


Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal
with
it Chris.
Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like
you
that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what
they lied to the customer about.

BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very
un-moron..err..mormom post you made there..
Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also
include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all
how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the
hopes
it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could
charge for.

BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a
field day with you...

hvacrmedic







  #18   Report Post  
Carolina Breeze HVAC
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
You have been consistently inaccurate. If memory serves, I wrote that I
didn't know what level of megohms indicates a bad compresor.

If you are this inaccurate when the information is on your screen, I
question if you can do anything else. Can you drive? Handle money? I sure
hope you don't go out in the field and fix peoples heating or AC.

You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news groups
to
the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints
50 East North Temple
Salt Lake City, UT, 84510

I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for me.
If
they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and
extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her.



Nah..I just sent them via FAX, to the locals there in NY, where you e-mailed
me and asked if I liked to play with men, and that nude shot you
sent....man..that was all ****ed up.

CAnt hide that header Chris...also, if you do it again, Ill report you for
sending unsolicited porn to a business addy.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
.
.


"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:


Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do
you own?
How do you check compressor windings?
Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be
a
tech....lol...

CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would
anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns?


Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal
with
it Chris.
Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like
you
that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what
they lied to the customer about.

BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very
un-moron..err..mormom post you made there..
Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also
include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all
how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the
hopes
it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could
charge for.

BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a
field day with you...





  #19   Report Post  
geoman*^
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
You have been consistently inaccurate. If memory serves, I wrote that I
didn't know what level of megohms indicates a bad compresor.

If you are this inaccurate when the information is on your screen, I
question if you can do anything else. Can you drive? Handle money? I sure
hope you don't go out in the field and fix peoples heating or AC.

You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news groups
to
the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints
50 East North Temple
Salt Lake City, UT, 84510


THATS A JOKE in itself. The Church of JESUS CHRIST? You mean the one who
said not to commit adultery? The one who, through Paul, stated that those
Christians who seek to do his work would be the husband of ONE WIFE? That
Church? Then drop the Later Day Saints because their ain't nothing 'SAINT
about the mormons.

You are NOT followers of Jesus Christ. He wore a robe NOT LONG UNDERWEAR!


I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for me.
If
they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and
extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
.
.


"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:


Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do
you own?
How do you check compressor windings?
Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be
a
tech....lol...

CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would
anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns?


Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal
with
it Chris.
Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like
you
that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what
they lied to the customer about.

BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very
un-moron..err..mormom post you made there..
Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also
include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all
how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the
hopes
it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could
charge for.

BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a
field day with you...





  #20   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote:


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
. ..
You have been consistently inaccurate. If memory serves, I wrote that I
didn't know what level of megohms indicates a bad compresor.

If you are this inaccurate when the information is on your screen, I
question if you can do anything else. Can you drive? Handle money? I sure
hope you don't go out in the field and fix peoples heating or AC.

You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news groups
to
the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints
50 East North Temple
Salt Lake City, UT, 84510

I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for me.
If
they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and
extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her.



Nah..I just sent them via FAX, to the locals there in NY, where you e-mailed
me and asked if I liked to play with men, and that nude shot you
sent....man..that was all ****ed up.

CAnt hide that header Chris...also, if you do it again, Ill report you for
sending unsolicited porn to a business addy.



excuse me, but there IS a pretty strong argument to the fact that YOU
solicited "it" by your posts where you say " Blow Me"......



--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
.
.


"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:


Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do
you own?
How do you check compressor windings?
Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be
a
tech....lol...

CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would
anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns?


Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal
with
it Chris.
Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like
you
that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what
they lied to the customer about.

BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very
un-moron..err..mormom post you made there..
Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also
include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all
how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the
hopes
it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could
charge for.

BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a
field day with you...







  #21   Report Post  
Stormin Mormon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Demonstrating your personality again?

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message
...

..be glad your sorry hacking, theiving
ass isnt here in NC...I would personally make sure you got locked up on a
class F felony for the **** you do.




  #22   Report Post  
Stormin Mormon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Report away.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news groups
to
the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints
50 East North Temple
Salt Lake City, UT, 84510

I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for me.
If
they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and
extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her.



Nah..I just sent them via FAX, to the locals there in NY, where you e-mailed
me and asked if I liked to play with men, and that nude shot you
sent....man..that was all ****ed up.

CAnt hide that header Chris...also, if you do it again, Ill report you for
sending unsolicited porn to a business addy.




  #23   Report Post  
~^Johnny^~
 
Posts: n/a
Default

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

On Tue, 23 Aug 2005 11:49:51 GMT, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Nah..I just sent them via FAX, to the locals there in NY, where you
e-mailed me and asked if I liked to play with men, and that nude
shot you
sent....man..that was all ****ed up.

CAnt hide that header Chris...


I hope you're kidding; or, perhaps mistaken about the sender.
Articles are too easily spoofed, forged, and/or remailed.

If you're not...
There was a problem with a troll in another NG a few years back,
pulled my chain pretty bad, everybody in teh group lost their cool -
this troll started sending lewd emails with large attachments to
people that had filtered his posts, and then he proceeded to stalk
and harass others to the point of issuing bogus complaints to
webmasters and ISP's, trying to get them all booted.
Long story short: He's gone now... apparently, he finally ran out
of ISP's. It can happen!

The point is this: It is very likely someone with a personal
vendetta, doing a "Joe Job" on Chris, et al.

Why do you think I recently started digi-signing my messages again?

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
Version: PGP 7.1

iQA/AwUBQwsTKwIk7T39FC4ZEQIoCgCfS4x1Uulx7R+Dmq4/DxWZ9Fh2pfQAoKev
oLuJlRqX+vbQQavl6g1uyBk8
=XCjb
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info
  #24   Report Post  
~^Johnny^~
 
Posts: n/a
Default

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 23:44:21 GMT, Jake
wrote:

How do you check compressor windings?


Why, you look to see if they've become 'unwound', don't you (-;.


Confucius say: "Never cut into hermetic with oxy-ace unless prepared
to travel".


-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
Version: PGP 7.1

iQA/AwUBQwsXEQIk7T39FC4ZEQIuAwCgzvzAFZpFdmQi/h/ZzriXgRvW+IwAoKBn
7PpFbMB12MHI5vVx0abam+Bu
=mxRO
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info
  #25   Report Post  
Carolina Breeze HVAC
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message
...
"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote:


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
You have been consistently inaccurate. If memory serves, I wrote that I
didn't know what level of megohms indicates a bad compresor.

If you are this inaccurate when the information is on your screen, I
question if you can do anything else. Can you drive? Handle money? I
sure
hope you don't go out in the field and fix peoples heating or AC.

You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news
groups
to
the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints
50 East North Temple
Salt Lake City, UT, 84510

I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for
me.
If
they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and
extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her.



Nah..I just sent them via FAX, to the locals there in NY, where you
e-mailed
me and asked if I liked to play with men, and that nude shot you
sent....man..that was all ****ed up.

CAnt hide that header Chris...also, if you do it again, Ill report you for
sending unsolicited porn to a business addy.



excuse me, but there IS a pretty strong argument to the fact that YOU
solicited "it" by your posts where you say " Blow Me"......


God..get with the joke, or dont reply...






--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
.
.


"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:


Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger
do
you own?
How do you check compressor windings?
Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to
be
a
tech....lol...

CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would
anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns?

Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal
with
it Chris.
Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like
you
that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do
what
they lied to the customer about.

BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very
un-moron..err..mormom post you made there..
Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill
also
include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us
all
how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the
hopes
it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you
could
charge for.

BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have
a
field day with you...







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