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#1
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AC question
I have lived in this house since it was new, 20 years ago. This past
week, during the late afternoon, I would get condensation coming from the air outlet closest to the air handler and right after the coil. I remember reading on this group that this is probably caused by icing of the coil. remembering that low air movement across the coil could cause this, I changed the filter and this time used a filter that would allow more flow ( I had one of those super duper ones that wouldn't let any pollen through). For the next day or so, that seemed to fix the problem. Now today, It has started again. I turned the AC off for about an hour, then turned it back on and no more condensation dripping from the outlet. I know, however, that it will probably return in another couple of hours. It is presently 100 degrees outside. The humidity is about 40%. Inside the temp is 77 degrees with a humidity of about 33%. This is the situation. The compressor is out side. Everything else is inside in the attic. Over the life of the AC, the filters have NOT be changed out on a regular basis. For the first 15 years or so, I used the el-chepo filters. Usually, when I did remember to change them, they were clogged up with dust. Last year I had someone come out to do a checkup. This was the first time in about 10 years. He measured the flow from the vents and used the gauges (I have no idea what the measurements were but he said the readings all looked good). He also checked the temp of the air coming out of the vents. All was good for the unit I had. He of course tried to sell me a new high effency unit, but when we finished talking, the payback would be after I was dead. So now I'm thinking that one of two things is wrong. Either the coil is clogged up and won't allow enough air to flow through the coil and it therefore freezes up, or the freon level is low(?). There seems to be good air flow coming from the vents and the air is cool, but can the air get around the coil? Or is it possible that some of the coil is clogged and that's where the ice starts to form, and then it just gets worse from there? I know I'm going to have to call an AC guy out, but I'd like to have an idea of what else the problem could be. Thanks. Dave |
#2
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Low freon will cause it to ice up and that will cause a reduction in
flow. To test, let the A/C sit turned off for a while until it has thawed. You can run the fan without the A/C on to help it thaw out faster. If the air flow returns eventually then you can rule out low flow. Dave Solly wrote: I have lived in this house since it was new, 20 years ago. This past week, during the late afternoon, I would get condensation coming from the air outlet closest to the air handler and right after the coil. I remember reading on this group that this is probably caused by icing of the coil. remembering that low air movement across the coil could cause this, I changed the filter and this time used a filter that would allow more flow ( I had one of those super duper ones that wouldn't let any pollen through). For the next day or so, that seemed to fix the problem. Now today, It has started again. I turned the AC off for about an hour, then turned it back on and no more condensation dripping from the outlet. I know, however, that it will probably return in another couple of hours. It is presently 100 degrees outside. The humidity is about 40%. Inside the temp is 77 degrees with a humidity of about 33%. This is the situation. The compressor is out side. Everything else is inside in the attic. Over the life of the AC, the filters have NOT be changed out on a regular basis. For the first 15 years or so, I used the el-chepo filters. Usually, when I did remember to change them, they were clogged up with dust. Last year I had someone come out to do a checkup. This was the first time in about 10 years. He measured the flow from the vents and used the gauges (I have no idea what the measurements were but he said the readings all looked good). He also checked the temp of the air coming out of the vents. All was good for the unit I had. He of course tried to sell me a new high effency unit, but when we finished talking, the payback would be after I was dead. So now I'm thinking that one of two things is wrong. Either the coil is clogged up and won't allow enough air to flow through the coil and it therefore freezes up, or the freon level is low(?). There seems to be good air flow coming from the vents and the air is cool, but can the air get around the coil? Or is it possible that some of the coil is clogged and that's where the ice starts to form, and then it just gets worse from there? I know I'm going to have to call an AC guy out, but I'd like to have an idea of what else the problem could be. Thanks. Dave |
#3
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Check your t-stat settings as well When a unit stops working: say from the filter and someone will usally turn the t-stat down thinking that will make the air colder. That will also ice up the coil as well and since you changed the air filter it may have started working again but now it is to low. Just a thought -- On My Way ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On My Way's Profile: http://www.homeplot.com/member.php?userid=13 View this thread: http://www.homeplot.com/showthread.php?t=57435 |
#4
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"Dave Solly" wrote in message ... I have lived in this house since it was new, 20 years ago. This past week, during the late afternoon, I would get condensation coming from the air outlet closest to the air handler and right after the coil. I remember reading on this group that this is probably caused by icing of the coil. remembering that low air movement across the coil could cause this, I changed the filter and this time used a filter that would allow more flow ( I had one of those super duper ones that wouldn't let any pollen through). For the next day or so, that seemed to fix the problem. Now today, It has started again. I turned the AC off for about an hour, then turned it back on and no more condensation dripping from the outlet. I know, however, that it will probably return in another couple of hours. It is presently 100 degrees outside. The humidity is about 40%. Inside the temp is 77 degrees with a humidity of about 33%. This is the situation. The compressor is out side. Everything else is inside in the attic. Over the life of the AC, the filters have NOT be changed out on a regular basis. For the first 15 years or so, I used the el-chepo filters. Usually, when I did remember to change them, they were clogged up with dust. Last year I had someone come out to do a checkup. This was the first time in about 10 years. He measured the flow from the vents and used the gauges (I have no idea what the measurements were but he said the readings all looked good). He also checked the temp of the air coming out of the vents. All was good for the unit I had. He of course tried to sell me a new high effency unit, but when we finished talking, the payback would be after I was dead. So now I'm thinking that one of two things is wrong. Either the coil is clogged up and won't allow enough air to flow through the coil and it therefore freezes up, or the freon level is low(?). There seems to be good air flow coming from the vents and the air is cool, but can the air get around the coil? Or is it possible that some of the coil is clogged and that's where the ice starts to form, and then it just gets worse from there? I know I'm going to have to call an AC guy out, but I'd like to have an idea of what else the problem could be. Thanks. Dave Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does NADA...the system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing on a properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD. Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see it from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged coil....DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE INSPECTS THE COIL!!!! Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and start juicing the unit..they never go inside, never take a lineset temp, never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they start to dump refrigerant into the unit and then, with NO WAY to know what they put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for 3lbs of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb for it. Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the pressure readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those pressures...mean NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow, means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower pressures. IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use a detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS, or LeBold, that wont happen anyway. 9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in seconds, not hours normally. Now...things you want to see.. 1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed. 2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant. 3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much he put in.... 4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant. You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says, by pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or subcool, and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap. Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and dont do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL |
#5
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"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in
: "Dave Solly" wrote in message ... I have lived in this house since it was new, 20 years ago. This past week, during the late afternoon, I would get condensation coming from the air outlet closest to the air handler and right after the coil. I remember reading on this group that this is probably caused by icing of the coil. remembering that low air movement across the coil could cause this, I changed the filter and this time used a filter that would allow more flow ( I had one of those super duper ones that wouldn't let any pollen through). For the next day or so, that seemed to fix the problem. Now today, It has started again. I turned the AC off for about an hour, then turned it back on and no more condensation dripping from the outlet. I know, however, that it will probably return in another couple of hours. It is presently 100 degrees outside. The humidity is about 40%. Inside the temp is 77 degrees with a humidity of about 33%. This is the situation. The compressor is out side. Everything else is inside in the attic. Over the life of the AC, the filters have NOT be changed out on a regular basis. For the first 15 years or so, I used the el-chepo filters. Usually, when I did remember to change them, they were clogged up with dust. Last year I had someone come out to do a checkup. This was the first time in about 10 years. He measured the flow from the vents and used the gauges (I have no idea what the measurements were but he said the readings all looked good). He also checked the temp of the air coming out of the vents. All was good for the unit I had. He of course tried to sell me a new high effency unit, but when we finished talking, the payback would be after I was dead. So now I'm thinking that one of two things is wrong. Either the coil is clogged up and won't allow enough air to flow through the coil and it therefore freezes up, or the freon level is low(?). There seems to be good air flow coming from the vents and the air is cool, but can the air get around the coil? Or is it possible that some of the coil is clogged and that's where the ice starts to form, and then it just gets worse from there? I know I'm going to have to call an AC guy out, but I'd like to have an idea of what else the problem could be. Thanks. Dave Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does NADA...the system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing on a properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD. Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see it from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged coil....DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE INSPECTS THE COIL!!!! Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and start juicing the unit..they never go inside, never take a lineset temp, never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they start to dump refrigerant into the unit and then, with NO WAY to know what they put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for 3lbs of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb for it. Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the pressure readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those pressures...mean NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow, means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower pressures. IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use a detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS, or LeBold, that wont happen anyway. 9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in seconds, not hours normally. Now...things you want to see.. 1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed. 2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant. 3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much he put in.... 4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant. You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says, by pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or subcool, and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap. Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and dont do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL Thanks for the info Steve. I'm printing it out. |
#6
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I would think that if the airflow returns after thaw, that low airflow
mighta been the problem in the first place. Hard to tell without gage and temp readings. -- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. .. .. "User Example" wrote in message .. . Low freon will cause it to ice up and that will cause a reduction in flow. To test, let the A/C sit turned off for a while until it has thawed. You can run the fan without the A/C on to help it thaw out faster. If the air flow returns eventually then you can rule out low flow. |
#7
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A call for cooling (when the room is 79 and the stat is on 76) is exactly
the same as a call for cooling hwen the room is 79, and the stat is set for 58. -- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. .. .. "On My Way" wrote in message ... Check your t-stat settings as well When a unit stops working: say from the filter and someone will usally turn the t-stat down thinking that will make the air colder. That will also ice up the coil as well and since you changed the air filter it may have started working again but now it is to low. Just a thought -- On My Way |
#8
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Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote: "Dave Solly" wrote in message ... I have lived in this house since it was new, 20 years ago. This past week, during the late afternoon, I would get condensation coming from the air outlet closest to the air handler and right after the coil. I remember reading on this group that this is probably caused by icing of the coil. remembering that low air movement across the coil could cause this, I changed the filter and this time used a filter that would allow more flow ( I had one of those super duper ones that wouldn't let any pollen through). For the next day or so, that seemed to fix the problem. Now today, It has started again. I turned the AC off for about an hour, then turned it back on and no more condensation dripping from the outlet. I know, however, that it will probably return in another couple of hours. It is presently 100 degrees outside. The humidity is about 40%. Inside the temp is 77 degrees with a humidity of about 33%. This is the situation. The compressor is out side. Everything else is inside in the attic. Over the life of the AC, the filters have NOT be changed out on a regular basis. For the first 15 years or so, I used the el-chepo filters. Usually, when I did remember to change them, they were clogged up with dust. Last year I had someone come out to do a checkup. This was the first time in about 10 years. He measured the flow from the vents and used the gauges (I have no idea what the measurements were but he said the readings all looked good). He also checked the temp of the air coming out of the vents. All was good for the unit I had. He of course tried to sell me a new high effency unit, but when we finished talking, the payback would be after I was dead. So now I'm thinking that one of two things is wrong. Either the coil is clogged up and won't allow enough air to flow through the coil and it therefore freezes up, or the freon level is low(?). There seems to be good air flow coming from the vents and the air is cool, but can the air get around the coil? Or is it possible that some of the coil is clogged and that's where the ice starts to form, and then it just gets worse from there? I know I'm going to have to call an AC guy out, but I'd like to have an idea of what else the problem could be. Thanks. Dave Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does NADA...the system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing on a properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD. Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see it from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged coil....DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE INSPECTS THE COIL!!!! Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and start juicing the unit..they never go inside, never take a lineset temp, never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they start to dump refrigerant into the unit and then, with NO WAY to know what they put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for 3lbs of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb for it. Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the pressure readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those pressures...mean NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow, means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower pressures. IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use a detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS, or LeBold, that wont happen anyway. 9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in seconds, not hours normally. Now...things you want to see.. 1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed. 2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant. 3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much he put in.... 4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant. You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says, by pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or subcool, and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap. Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and dont do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL You should save this one as a template. Will save retyping it over and over. Very thorough. hvacrmedic |
#9
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Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:
Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does NADA...the system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing on a properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD. CY: Ignore, NADA, NOT..... three negatives. Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see it from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged coil.... CY: Impossbile, lack. two more negatives. DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE INSPECTS THE COIL!!!! CY: More negative energy. Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and start juicing the unit.. CY: Mind reading. And critizing the other workers. More negative energy. they never go inside, never take a lineset temp, never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they start to dump refrigerant into the unit and then, CY: I read six negatives, here. with NO WAY to know what they put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for 3lbs of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb for it. CY: More mind reading. More criticizing the other guy. Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the pressure readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those pressures...mean NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow, means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower pressures. IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use a detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS, or LeBold, that wont happen anyway. 9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in seconds, not hours normally. CY: Ah, now some information. Shame the reader had to wade through so much negative energy to get here. If anyone got this far. It's clear that your main game is critizing others. Now...things you want to see.. 1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed. 2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant. 3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much he put in.... 4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant. You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says, by pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or subcool, and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap. Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and dont do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL CY: More instruction. Shame you had to dump so much negative energy on everyone to get here. You should save this one as a template. Will save retyping it over and over. Very thorough. CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns? hvacrmedic |
#10
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"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote: Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does NADA...the system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing on a properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD. CY: Ignore, NADA, NOT..... three negatives. Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do you own? How do you check compressor windings? Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be a tech....lol... Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see it from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged coil.... CY: Impossbile, lack. two more negatives. You stupid incompetent moron....suggest you learn how to read....that wasnt negative..this is....you are impossible to train... DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE INSPECTS THE COIL!!!! CY: More negative energy. Ummm...no. Its negative to your type..the untrained, unwilling to learn kind that isnt licenced....and has admitted to putting used parts on your so called customers units. Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and start juicing the unit.. CY: Mind reading. And critizing the other workers. More negative energy. No...thats a fact, and I bet I nailed you on the head. What brand and model scale do you use Chris? they never go inside, never take a lineset temp, never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they start to dump refrigerant into the unit and then, CY: I read six negatives, here. I read that I just nailed how you charge a unit. with NO WAY to know what they put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for 3lbs of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb for it. CY: More mind reading. More criticizing the other guy. Whassa matter Chris? Really ****es you off that you have been called out time and time again, and now, your charging techiques have been uncovered? Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the pressure readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those pressures...mean NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow, means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower pressures. IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use a detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS, or LeBold, that wont happen anyway. 9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in seconds, not hours normally. CY: Ah, now some information. Shame the reader had to wade through so much negative energy to get here. If anyone got this far. It's clear that your main game is critizing others. No...just putting the hacks out....get used to it bubba... See Chris, the bad thing is that there are people out there like you....the average homeowner has no clue the things that need to be done, so when someone like you comes out, they think, wow, hes got it running...and all you did was keep them stupid to what you did...need I remind you about your capacitor story???? Educate the homeowner, the hacks will find other avenues. Now...things you want to see.. 1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed. 2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant. 3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much he put in.... 4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant. You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says, by pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or subcool, and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap. Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and dont do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL CY: More instruction. Shame you had to dump so much negative energy on everyone to get here. You learned something? Amazing. Shame you continue to lie to everyone....more negative energy that I am positive about. You should save this one as a template. Will save retyping it over and over. Very thorough. CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns? Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal with it Chris. Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like you that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what they lied to the customer about. BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very un-moron..err..mormom post you made there.. Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the hopes it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could charge for. BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a field day with you... hvacrmedic |
#11
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Generally, people with jobs don't spend this much time on the computer. I
don't have the time to rebutt each and every accusation. Why don't you make some more vicious accusations? You sure are revealing your true personality. -- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. .. .. "Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message ... "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote: Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does NADA...the system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing on a properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD. CY: Ignore, NADA, NOT..... three negatives. Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do you own? How do you check compressor windings? Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be a tech....lol... Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see it from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged coil.... CY: Impossbile, lack. two more negatives. You stupid incompetent moron....suggest you learn how to read....that wasnt negative..this is....you are impossible to train... DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE INSPECTS THE COIL!!!! CY: More negative energy. Ummm...no. Its negative to your type..the untrained, unwilling to learn kind that isnt licenced....and has admitted to putting used parts on your so called customers units. Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and start juicing the unit.. CY: Mind reading. And critizing the other workers. More negative energy. No...thats a fact, and I bet I nailed you on the head. What brand and model scale do you use Chris? they never go inside, never take a lineset temp, never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they start to dump refrigerant into the unit and then, CY: I read six negatives, here. I read that I just nailed how you charge a unit. with NO WAY to know what they put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for 3lbs of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb for it. CY: More mind reading. More criticizing the other guy. Whassa matter Chris? Really ****es you off that you have been called out time and time again, and now, your charging techiques have been uncovered? Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the pressure readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those pressures...mean NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow, means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower pressures. IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use a detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS, or LeBold, that wont happen anyway. 9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in seconds, not hours normally. CY: Ah, now some information. Shame the reader had to wade through so much negative energy to get here. If anyone got this far. It's clear that your main game is critizing others. No...just putting the hacks out....get used to it bubba... See Chris, the bad thing is that there are people out there like you....the average homeowner has no clue the things that need to be done, so when someone like you comes out, they think, wow, hes got it running...and all you did was keep them stupid to what you did...need I remind you about your capacitor story???? Educate the homeowner, the hacks will find other avenues. Now...things you want to see.. 1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed. 2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant. 3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much he put in.... 4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant. You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says, by pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or subcool, and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap. Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and dont do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL CY: More instruction. Shame you had to dump so much negative energy on everyone to get here. You learned something? Amazing. Shame you continue to lie to everyone....more negative energy that I am positive about. You should save this one as a template. Will save retyping it over and over. Very thorough. CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns? Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal with it Chris. Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like you that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what they lied to the customer about. BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very un-moron..err..mormom post you made there.. Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the hopes it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could charge for. BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a field day with you... hvacrmedic |
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Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do you own? Hey... I've got a M'Egger.... it was made by Ronco and sold in K-Marts nationwide in the '70s. It made deviled eggs or something... do you know where I can get parts? How do you check compressor windings? Why, you look to see if they've become 'unwound', don't you (-;. Jake |
#13
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Carolina Breeze HVAC posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom. What brand and model scale do you use Chris? He's got the Health O Meter 300. The one like in doctors offices with bar balance. It's in the back of the Pinto somewhere bent like a pretzel and due to be recalibrated 75 years ago... -- Tekkie |
#14
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Jake posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom. Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do you own? Hey... I've got a M'Egger.... it was made by Ronco and sold in K-Marts nationwide in the '70s. It made deviled eggs or something... do you know where I can get parts? M'Donalds might have parts for the M'Egger. Stumped might have some in the back of the Pinto wagon that he can cobble together from his filed down fitz all breakers. How do you check compressor windings? Why, you look to see if they've become 'unwound', don't you (-;. I thought Stumped wound the ol nylon rope round the sheave and yanked like crazy. I might be wrong but I highly doubt it. Jake -- Tekkie |
#15
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"Tekkie®" wrote in message ... Carolina Breeze HVAC posted for all of us... I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom. What brand and model scale do you use Chris? He's got the Health O Meter 300. The one like in doctors offices with bar balance. It's in the back of the Pinto somewhere bent like a pretzel and due to be recalibrated 75 years ago... -- Tekkie That's better than the one I have in my bathroom. Mine just says "one at a time, please" when I get on it. |
#16
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You have been consistently inaccurate. If memory serves, I wrote that I
didn't know what level of megohms indicates a bad compresor. If you are this inaccurate when the information is on your screen, I question if you can do anything else. Can you drive? Handle money? I sure hope you don't go out in the field and fix peoples heating or AC. You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news groups to the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints 50 East North Temple Salt Lake City, UT, 84510 I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for me. If they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her. -- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. .. .. "Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message ... "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote: Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do you own? How do you check compressor windings? Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be a tech....lol... CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns? Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal with it Chris. Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like you that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what they lied to the customer about. BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very un-moron..err..mormom post you made there.. Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the hopes it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could charge for. BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a field day with you... |
#17
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"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Generally, people with jobs don't spend this much time on the computer. I don't have the time to rebutt each and every accusation. Why don't you make some more vicious accusations? You sure are revealing your true personality. In your apparent hurry to try in vain to make me feel bad, you missed the post, altho I think you replied to it, where I stated, I was taking the day off. See....as someone that ISNT a one man band, someone that actually OWNS the company, and hires first year techs that know more than you do, I dont HAVE to go out every day and lie and cheat like YOU do to make a living. My true personality you would not like Chris...its actually a nice guy, and anyone in here that knows me, knows that. You only have the words to deal with....be glad your sorry hacking, theiving ass isnt here in NC...I would personally make sure you got locked up on a class F felony for the **** you do. -- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. . . "Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message ... "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote: Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does NADA...the system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing on a properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD. CY: Ignore, NADA, NOT..... three negatives. Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do you own? How do you check compressor windings? Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be a tech....lol... Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see it from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged coil.... CY: Impossbile, lack. two more negatives. You stupid incompetent moron....suggest you learn how to read....that wasnt negative..this is....you are impossible to train... DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE INSPECTS THE COIL!!!! CY: More negative energy. Ummm...no. Its negative to your type..the untrained, unwilling to learn kind that isnt licenced....and has admitted to putting used parts on your so called customers units. Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and start juicing the unit.. CY: Mind reading. And critizing the other workers. More negative energy. No...thats a fact, and I bet I nailed you on the head. What brand and model scale do you use Chris? they never go inside, never take a lineset temp, never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they start to dump refrigerant into the unit and then, CY: I read six negatives, here. I read that I just nailed how you charge a unit. with NO WAY to know what they put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for 3lbs of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb for it. CY: More mind reading. More criticizing the other guy. Whassa matter Chris? Really ****es you off that you have been called out time and time again, and now, your charging techiques have been uncovered? Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the pressure readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those pressures...mean NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow, means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower pressures. IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use a detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS, or LeBold, that wont happen anyway. 9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in seconds, not hours normally. CY: Ah, now some information. Shame the reader had to wade through so much negative energy to get here. If anyone got this far. It's clear that your main game is critizing others. No...just putting the hacks out....get used to it bubba... See Chris, the bad thing is that there are people out there like you....the average homeowner has no clue the things that need to be done, so when someone like you comes out, they think, wow, hes got it running...and all you did was keep them stupid to what you did...need I remind you about your capacitor story???? Educate the homeowner, the hacks will find other avenues. Now...things you want to see.. 1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed. 2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant. 3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much he put in.... 4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant. You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says, by pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or subcool, and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap. Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and dont do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL CY: More instruction. Shame you had to dump so much negative energy on everyone to get here. You learned something? Amazing. Shame you continue to lie to everyone....more negative energy that I am positive about. You should save this one as a template. Will save retyping it over and over. Very thorough. CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns? Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal with it Chris. Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like you that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what they lied to the customer about. BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very un-moron..err..mormom post you made there.. Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the hopes it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could charge for. BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a field day with you... hvacrmedic |
#18
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"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... You have been consistently inaccurate. If memory serves, I wrote that I didn't know what level of megohms indicates a bad compresor. If you are this inaccurate when the information is on your screen, I question if you can do anything else. Can you drive? Handle money? I sure hope you don't go out in the field and fix peoples heating or AC. You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news groups to the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints 50 East North Temple Salt Lake City, UT, 84510 I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for me. If they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her. Nah..I just sent them via FAX, to the locals there in NY, where you e-mailed me and asked if I liked to play with men, and that nude shot you sent....man..that was all ****ed up. CAnt hide that header Chris...also, if you do it again, Ill report you for sending unsolicited porn to a business addy. -- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. . . "Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message ... "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote: Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do you own? How do you check compressor windings? Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be a tech....lol... CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns? Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal with it Chris. Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like you that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what they lied to the customer about. BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very un-moron..err..mormom post you made there.. Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the hopes it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could charge for. BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a field day with you... |
#19
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"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... You have been consistently inaccurate. If memory serves, I wrote that I didn't know what level of megohms indicates a bad compresor. If you are this inaccurate when the information is on your screen, I question if you can do anything else. Can you drive? Handle money? I sure hope you don't go out in the field and fix peoples heating or AC. You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news groups to the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints 50 East North Temple Salt Lake City, UT, 84510 THATS A JOKE in itself. The Church of JESUS CHRIST? You mean the one who said not to commit adultery? The one who, through Paul, stated that those Christians who seek to do his work would be the husband of ONE WIFE? That Church? Then drop the Later Day Saints because their ain't nothing 'SAINT about the mormons. You are NOT followers of Jesus Christ. He wore a robe NOT LONG UNDERWEAR! I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for me. If they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her. -- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. . . "Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message ... "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote: Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do you own? How do you check compressor windings? Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be a tech....lol... CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns? Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal with it Chris. Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like you that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what they lied to the customer about. BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very un-moron..err..mormom post you made there.. Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the hopes it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could charge for. BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a field day with you... |
#20
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"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message . .. You have been consistently inaccurate. If memory serves, I wrote that I didn't know what level of megohms indicates a bad compresor. If you are this inaccurate when the information is on your screen, I question if you can do anything else. Can you drive? Handle money? I sure hope you don't go out in the field and fix peoples heating or AC. You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news groups to the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints 50 East North Temple Salt Lake City, UT, 84510 I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for me. If they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her. Nah..I just sent them via FAX, to the locals there in NY, where you e-mailed me and asked if I liked to play with men, and that nude shot you sent....man..that was all ****ed up. CAnt hide that header Chris...also, if you do it again, Ill report you for sending unsolicited porn to a business addy. excuse me, but there IS a pretty strong argument to the fact that YOU solicited "it" by your posts where you say " Blow Me"...... -- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. . . "Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message ... "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote: Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do you own? How do you check compressor windings? Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be a tech....lol... CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns? Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal with it Chris. Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like you that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what they lied to the customer about. BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very un-moron..err..mormom post you made there.. Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the hopes it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could charge for. BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a field day with you... |
#21
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Demonstrating your personality again?
-- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. .. .. "Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message ... ..be glad your sorry hacking, theiving ass isnt here in NC...I would personally make sure you got locked up on a class F felony for the **** you do. |
#22
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Report away.
-- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. .. .. "Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message ... "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news groups to the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints 50 East North Temple Salt Lake City, UT, 84510 I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for me. If they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her. Nah..I just sent them via FAX, to the locals there in NY, where you e-mailed me and asked if I liked to play with men, and that nude shot you sent....man..that was all ****ed up. CAnt hide that header Chris...also, if you do it again, Ill report you for sending unsolicited porn to a business addy. |
#23
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-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1 On Tue, 23 Aug 2005 11:49:51 GMT, "Stormin Mormon" wrote: Nah..I just sent them via FAX, to the locals there in NY, where you e-mailed me and asked if I liked to play with men, and that nude shot you sent....man..that was all ****ed up. CAnt hide that header Chris... I hope you're kidding; or, perhaps mistaken about the sender. Articles are too easily spoofed, forged, and/or remailed. If you're not... There was a problem with a troll in another NG a few years back, pulled my chain pretty bad, everybody in teh group lost their cool - this troll started sending lewd emails with large attachments to people that had filtered his posts, and then he proceeded to stalk and harass others to the point of issuing bogus complaints to webmasters and ISP's, trying to get them all booted. Long story short: He's gone now... apparently, he finally ran out of ISP's. It can happen! The point is this: It is very likely someone with a personal vendetta, doing a "Joe Job" on Chris, et al. Why do you think I recently started digi-signing my messages again? -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: PGP 7.1 iQA/AwUBQwsTKwIk7T39FC4ZEQIoCgCfS4x1Uulx7R+Dmq4/DxWZ9Fh2pfQAoKev oLuJlRqX+vbQQavl6g1uyBk8 =XCjb -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- -- -john wide-open at throttle dot info |
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-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1 On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 23:44:21 GMT, Jake wrote: How do you check compressor windings? Why, you look to see if they've become 'unwound', don't you (-;. Confucius say: "Never cut into hermetic with oxy-ace unless prepared to travel". -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: PGP 7.1 iQA/AwUBQwsXEQIk7T39FC4ZEQIuAwCgzvzAFZpFdmQi/h/ZzriXgRvW+IwAoKBn 7PpFbMB12MHI5vVx0abam+Bu =mxRO -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- -- -john wide-open at throttle dot info |
#25
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wrote in message ... "Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote: "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message .. . You have been consistently inaccurate. If memory serves, I wrote that I didn't know what level of megohms indicates a bad compresor. If you are this inaccurate when the information is on your screen, I question if you can do anything else. Can you drive? Handle money? I sure hope you don't go out in the field and fix peoples heating or AC. You are completely invited to forward anything I write on the news groups to the local or global leaders. Just print it out and send to The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints 50 East North Temple Salt Lake City, UT, 84510 I'm typing from memory, so you'll have to double check the adress for me. If they have a hard time trying to find me, get the name and phone and extension of the person you contact, and I'll call him or her. Nah..I just sent them via FAX, to the locals there in NY, where you e-mailed me and asked if I liked to play with men, and that nude shot you sent....man..that was all ****ed up. CAnt hide that header Chris...also, if you do it again, Ill report you for sending unsolicited porn to a business addy. excuse me, but there IS a pretty strong argument to the fact that YOU solicited "it" by your posts where you say " Blow Me"...... God..get with the joke, or dont reply... -- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. . . "Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message ... "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote: Here is a fourth in a hurry for ya Chris...what ****ing brand of megger do you own? How do you check compressor windings? Your own words were....you know nothing about those....and you claim to be a tech....lol... CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns? Another pro, (something you are not even close to) thinks its ok...deal with it Chris. Wait till the vid comes out that we are gonna offer...its got guys like you that we taped working on units, and then it shows the RIGHT way to do what they lied to the customer about. BTW Chris..for someone that claims to be a Mormon..that sure was a very un-moron..err..mormom post you made there.. Dont mind if I send it to the local Mormons in your area do you? Ill also include your most recent post about how you cheated and admitted to us all how you cheated a customer by installing used parts on his unit in the hopes it would run, and how you KNEW you had a GUARANTEED return visit you could charge for. BTW..glad you cross posted this to alt.hvac....the guys there will have a field day with you... |
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