Carolina Breeze HVAC wrote:
Dave...first of all....ignore the comment about the stat being too
low...turning the stat too low on a properly charged system does
NADA...the
system knows only on, or off, and going too low will NOT cause freezing on
a
properly charged and operational unit in summer temps...PERIOD.
CY: Ignore, NADA, NOT..... three negatives.
Now, you probably answered your own question, but its impossible to see it
from here, however, your lack of normal service is screaming clogged
coil....
CY: Impossbile, lack. two more negatives.
DO NOT LET YOUR AC GUY PUT ANY REFRIGERANT IN THE UNIT TILL HE
INSPECTS THE COIL!!!!
CY: More negative energy.
Most guys will come out, with only a manifold and a nice green tank and
start juicing the unit..
CY: Mind reading. And critizing the other workers. More negative energy.
they never go inside, never take a lineset temp,
never take a RH% reading indoors, never get a dew point...never do any of
that and start to overcharge the unit, and then, WITHOUT a scale, they
start
to dump refrigerant into the unit and then,
CY: I read six negatives, here.
with NO WAY to know what they
put in the unit, they proudly proclaim its working, and charge you for
3lbs
of refrigerant that they got for next to nothing and charge you $45 a lb
for
it.
CY: More mind reading. More criticizing the other guy.
Low airflow across the coil, due to dirt, mold, etc, will cause the
pressure
readings at the manifold to be, or appear low. (BTW, those
pressures...mean
NOTHING to a trained tech...hes looking for temps anyway) A dirty blower
wheel will cause the same thing due to lack of airflow..lack of airflow,
means lack of heat being transfered to the coil, and thus, lower
pressures.
IF the units not been serviced, its worth your while to get the evap
properly cleaned, the condensor properly cleaned, and THEN have the tech
look for the issue..chances are, if it is low, and the ONLY way hes gonna
know is to check the coils, clean the coils, and go inside and take temp
readings for starters...then its got a slow leak. Any legitimate company
will check the coils while they are servicing the unit for leaks..and use
a
detector thats of decent quality...not soap unless its a question of
moisture setting the detector off..and if hes got a decent one, like CPS,
or
LeBold, that wont happen anyway.
9 out of 10 leaks are at the service ports and can be repaired in seconds,
not hours normally.
CY: Ah, now some information. Shame the reader had to wade through so much
negative energy to get here. If anyone got this far. It's clear that your
main game is critizing others.
Now...things you want to see..
1-Checking the evap coil, and cleaning if needed.
2-Taking temp readings of the suction line and return air temp indoors
BEFORE adding a damn drop of refrigerant.
3-a SCALE under that green refrigerant jug, so he knows EXACTLY how much
he
put in....
4-a leak check if he adds any refrigerant.
You will want to ask him how hes gonna check the charge, and if he says,
by
pressure, you can tell him to get on down the road..superheat, or subcool,
and HE wont know till he checks your metering device in the evap.
Now...if you want a gas-n-go.....then let him do whatever he wants, and
dont
do anything but pay him whatever he asks...LOL
CY: More instruction. Shame you had to dump so much negative energy on
everyone to get here.
You should save this one as a template. Will save retyping it over and
over. Very thorough.
CY: Highly negative, and very insulting of every other tech. Why would
anyone want to repeat a bunch of insults and putdowns?
hvacrmedic
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