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  #1   Report Post  
Sasha
 
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Default Garbage Disposer dilemma

I am installing a garbage disposer in process of totally remodeling my
kitchen. I never had garbage disposer before. The disposer I got is
In-Sink-Erator 555sss. I always thought the garbage disposer works much
like sewage ejector pump that I installed in my basement several years
ago - float switch turns on where the disposer is full and turns off
after grinding waste and flushing water. It turned out that my disposer
and as far as I realize most of them are turned on manually and run
until manually turned off. Do I understand this correct? I installed a
GFCI receptacle on dedicated 20 A circuit but I assumed no switch. I
find it very annoying to turn the switch on and off each time I need to
use the disposer. Where do I put the switch for the disposer? Can it
overheat and break if left running for prolonged time?

  #2   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
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"Sasha" wrote in message
ups.com...
The disposer I got is
In-Sink-Erator 555sss. I always thought the garbage disposer works much
like sewage ejector pump that I installed in my basement several years
ago - float switch turns on where the disposer is full and turns off
after grinding waste and flushing water. It turned out that my disposer
and as far as I realize most of them are turned on manually and run
until manually turned off. Do I understand this correct? I installed a
GFCI receptacle on dedicated 20 A circuit but I assumed no switch. I
find it very annoying to turn the switch on and off each time I need to
use the disposer. Where do I put the switch for the disposer? Can it
overheat and break if left running for prolonged time?




Good troll, bet you reel in a few. Next time get the model 17


  #3   Report Post  
Sacramento Dave
 
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Default


"Sasha" wrote in message
ups.com...
I am installing a garbage disposer in process of totally remodeling my
kitchen. I never had garbage disposer before. The disposer I got is
In-Sink-Erator 555sss. I always thought the garbage disposer works much
like sewage ejector pump that I installed in my basement several years
ago - float switch turns on where the disposer is full and turns off
after grinding waste and flushing water. It turned out that my disposer
and as far as I realize most of them are turned on manually and run
until manually turned off. Do I understand this correct? I installed a
GFCI receptacle on dedicated 20 A circuit but I assumed no switch. I
find it very annoying to turn the switch on and off each time I need to
use the disposer. Where do I put the switch for the disposer? Can it
overheat and break if left running for prolonged time?


The switch is usually mounted in the backsplash by the sink.But I just
stayed in a condo (new one ) the switch was in the cabinet under the sink.I
have no idea why this was done, it took awhile to find and was just a bad
idea.If you leave it on it will overheat and I guess that can cause an early
death.The dedicated circuit is great. Usually the outlet is under the sink
cabinet and one half of it is swathed . they other remains hot. My advice
call an electrician,


  #4   Report Post  
CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert
 
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Sasha wrote:
I am installing a garbage disposer in process of totally remodeling my
kitchen. I never had garbage disposer before. The disposer I got is
In-Sink-Erator 555sss. I always thought the garbage disposer works much
like sewage ejector pump that I installed in my basement several years
ago - float switch turns on where the disposer is full and turns off
after grinding waste and flushing water. It turned out that my disposer
and as far as I realize most of them are turned on manually and run
until manually turned off. Do I understand this correct? I installed a
GFCI receptacle on dedicated 20 A circuit but I assumed no switch. I
find it very annoying to turn the switch on and off each time I need to
use the disposer. Where do I put the switch for the disposer? Can it
overheat and break if left running for prolonged time?


very plausable. if it wasn't for Edwin, I would have bit...

--
Respectfully,


CL Gilbert
  #5   Report Post  
Sacramento Dave
 
Posts: n/a
Default


very plausable. if it wasn't for Edwin, I would have bit...

--
Respectfully,


CL Gilbert


Did I miss something ?, Do I have a Hook Mark?




  #6   Report Post  
Christian
 
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return it and get a batch version... it has a built in swich that come on
whe you put on the plug... much safer.

This is what I hd at the old house we just sold....
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...=02 260559000


Christian


"Sasha" wrote in message
ups.com...
I am installing a garbage disposer in process of totally remodeling my
kitchen. I never had garbage disposer before. The disposer I got is
In-Sink-Erator 555sss. I always thought the garbage disposer works much
like sewage ejector pump that I installed in my basement several years
ago - float switch turns on where the disposer is full and turns off
after grinding waste and flushing water. It turned out that my disposer
and as far as I realize most of them are turned on manually and run
until manually turned off. Do I understand this correct? I installed a
GFCI receptacle on dedicated 20 A circuit but I assumed no switch. I
find it very annoying to turn the switch on and off each time I need to
use the disposer. Where do I put the switch for the disposer? Can it
overheat and break if left running for prolonged time?



  #7   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
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Default


"Sacramento Dave" wrote in message
...

very plausable. if it wasn't for Edwin, I would have bit...

--
Respectfully,


CL Gilbert


Did I miss something ?, Do I have a Hook Mark?


The part about the float switch operating the disposal.


  #8   Report Post  
Sacramento Dave
 
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Default


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. ..

"Sacramento Dave" wrote in message
...

very plausable. if it wasn't for Edwin, I would have bit...

--
Respectfully,


CL Gilbert


Did I miss something ?, Do I have a Hook Mark?


The part about the float switch operating the disposal.

I believe the were describing there injector pump switch . I'm hook free



  #9   Report Post  
SteveB
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Sasha" wrote in message
ups.com...
I am installing a garbage disposer in process of totally remodeling my
kitchen. I never had garbage disposer before. The disposer I got is
In-Sink-Erator 555sss. I always thought the garbage disposer works much
like sewage ejector pump that I installed in my basement several years
ago - float switch turns on where the disposer is full and turns off
after grinding waste and flushing water. It turned out that my disposer
and as far as I realize most of them are turned on manually and run
until manually turned off. Do I understand this correct? I installed a
GFCI receptacle on dedicated 20 A circuit but I assumed no switch. I
find it very annoying to turn the switch on and off each time I need to
use the disposer. Where do I put the switch for the disposer? Can it
overheat and break if left running for prolonged time?


You sound like my wife. She has a hell of a time understanding that the
garbage disposal is not like a garbage can. You don't wait until it is
full, then turn it on.

First off, the stuff smells rank quickly, and second, that is a lot of stuff
to send through the line at once, and there is a chance of clogging.

Still, at any time, I can turn on the water and hit the switch and there
will be garbage in there.

Either learn to use the damn thing, or get a pig to dispose of the slop.

Steve


  #10   Report Post  
Joe
 
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Default

I did have a problem with a dishwasher that had to do with the disposer.
I hooked up the dishwasher drain to drain into the disposer.
Every now and then when you opened the dishwasher after it did a load of
dishes, there would be some dirty water that stayed in the DW.
You would then have to re-wash everything.
The problem was........my wife wasn't always running the disposer when she
put stuff in it.
The disposer would partially plug up and when the DW pumped the dirty water
out, some of it would sit in the disposer and when the pump stopped, the
water would run back into the DW.
I changed the discharge to below the disposer and haven't had a problem
since.
--
JerryD(upstateNY)




  #11   Report Post  
Ranieri
 
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Default


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"Sasha" wrote in message
ups.com...
The disposer I got is
In-Sink-Erator 555sss. I always thought the garbage disposer works much
like sewage ejector pump that I installed in my basement several years
ago - float switch turns on where the disposer is full and turns off
after grinding waste and flushing water. It turned out that my disposer
and as far as I realize most of them are turned on manually and run
until manually turned off. Do I understand this correct? I installed a
GFCI receptacle on dedicated 20 A circuit but I assumed no switch. I
find it very annoying to turn the switch on and off each time I need to
use the disposer. Where do I put the switch for the disposer? Can it
overheat and break if left running for prolonged time?




Good troll, bet you reel in a few. Next time get the model 17



I'm not so sure shes trolling - this question comes 3 days after her
question about locating an undermount sink, just about the right time frame
to be messing with the disposal.

Woe unto him who reaches into the disposer to retrieve a dropped spoon, only
to set off the float switch. Ouch.


  #12   Report Post  
CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert
 
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Default

Joe wrote:
I did have a problem with a dishwasher that had to do with the disposer.
I hooked up the dishwasher drain to drain into the disposer.
Every now and then when you opened the dishwasher after it did a load of
dishes, there would be some dirty water that stayed in the DW.
You would then have to re-wash everything.
The problem was........my wife wasn't always running the disposer when she
put stuff in it.
The disposer would partially plug up and when the DW pumped the dirty water
out, some of it would sit in the disposer and when the pump stopped, the
water would run back into the DW.
I changed the discharge to below the disposer and haven't had a problem
since.


Same. My wife does not rinse the dishes properly before she puts them
in the washer. AND she does nto run the disposal before and after each
wash... Gotta do one or the other at least.

--
Respectfully,


CL Gilbert
  #13   Report Post  
DJ
 
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Default

On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 07:58:36 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

I did have a problem with a dishwasher that had to do with the disposer.
I hooked up the dishwasher drain to drain into the disposer.
Every now and then when you opened the dishwasher after it did a load of
dishes, there would be some dirty water that stayed in the DW.
You would then have to re-wash everything.
The problem was........my wife wasn't always running the disposer when she
put stuff in it.
The disposer would partially plug up and when the DW pumped the dirty water
out, some of it would sit in the disposer and when the pump stopped, the
water would run back into the DW.
I changed the discharge to below the disposer and haven't had a problem
since.


Wouldn't looping the drain line, with the high point above the
disposal outlet, preclude this from happening?

DJ
  #14   Report Post  
 
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There are 3 solutions to the problem. One is put a switch on the wall
near the sink, which is the most common. Another is buy one of the
batch type disposers that run when you put the lid on it. They are
usually used for homes where small kids are a concern, And the last
solution, I'm pretty sure I've seen a relay type gizmo that will turn
the disposal on. The settup has a push button that goes in a spare
hole in the sink, like where a soap dispenser would go. From the
button to the relay I think they use air to activate it, so for saety,
there is no electric going to the actual sink button.

  #15   Report Post  
Jennifer
 
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Default


CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert wrote:

Same. My wife does not rinse the dishes properly before she puts them
in the washer. AND she does nto run the disposal before and after each
wash... Gotta do one or the other at least.


She should definitely run the disposal first, but depending on the
model of your dishwasher, she may not need to rinse the dishes at all.

Consumer Reports tests dishwashers regularly, using a mess of oatmeal
and spinach that's been allowed to harden on dishes overnight. They
reported last year that most current-model dishwashers had no problem
cleaning those dishes completely, with no soaking or rinsing.

As I recall, the biggest difference they found in the cleanliness of
dishes had nothing to do with rinsing; instead it was related to the
kind of cleaner used. The best dishwasher powders, liquids, and tabs
were the ones that contained enzymes. Cascade Complete and Electrasol
tabs are two of the products I remember performing well.

This was all a big revelation to me, since I'd been raised to believe
that you had to wash the dishes before washing the dishes, but I tried
it, and lo-and-behold, my dishes came out clean without rinsing.
Loading dishes without rinsing completely freaks my mother-in-law out
when she visits. Bonus!

--
Jennifer



  #16   Report Post  
Bob Morrison
 
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In a previous post Jennifer says...
Consumer Reports tests dishwashers regularly, using a mess of oatmeal
and spinach that's been allowed to harden on dishes overnight. They
reported last year that most current-model dishwashers had no problem
cleaning those dishes completely, with no soaking or rinsing.


The problem with not rinsing is not the stuff that gets stuck on, but
the fish bones or broken glass that make it past the screen and grinder.
These get stuck in the discharge pump and will trap anything else headed
for the disposal.

I have a fairly new Frigidaire that I have had to take apart more than
once because fish bones or a piece of broken glass got past the screen.


--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
  #17   Report Post  
Jennifer
 
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Bob Morrison wrote:

The problem with not rinsing is not the stuff that gets stuck on, but
the fish bones or broken glass that make it past the screen and grinder.
These get stuck in the discharge pump and will trap anything else headed
for the disposal.

I have a fairly new Frigidaire that I have had to take apart more than
once because fish bones or a piece of broken glass got past the screen.



I'd think that broken glass would come from glasses broken in the
dishwasher, not from anything on your plate? And bones get scraped into
the trash, of course... Sorry if I implied that you could put anything
into the dishwasher; only food that can be ground by the dishwasher is
safe, but that includes almost everything. No corncobs, no bones, no
peach pits.

--
Jennifer

  #18   Report Post  
Bob Morrison
 
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In a previous post Jennifer says...
I'd think that broken glass would come from glasses broken in the
dishwasher, not from anything on your plate? And bones get scraped into
the trash, of course... Sorry if I implied that you could put anything
into the dishwasher; only food that can be ground by the dishwasher is
safe, but that includes almost everything. No corncobs, no bones, no
peach pits.


Jennifer:

You are correct on the source of the broken glass. My point about fish
bones is that they seem so small (not like a bone from a steak) and the
temptation is to not rinse them off. Big mistake! I think it prudent
to give the dishes a light rinse or a quick scrape before they go in the
dishwasher.

--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
  #19   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
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"Bob Morrison" wrote in message
k.net...

Big mistake! I think it prudent
to give the dishes a light rinse or a quick scrape before they go in the
dishwasher.


In spite of what the manufacturer says, excessive gravy, tomato sauce, or
beet juice swirling around in the machine cant be as good as getting rid of
it before hand. A quick "pssst" under the faucet gets rid of the bulk.
Ed


  #20   Report Post  
Jennifer
 
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

In spite of what the manufacturer says, excessive gravy, tomato sauce, or
beet juice swirling around in the machine cant be as good as getting rid of
it before hand. A quick "pssst" under the faucet gets rid of the bulk.



So... an independent consumer advocacy organization tests dishwashers,
and determines that dishes come out equally clean whether you pre-rinse
or not, and you would rather continue to waste the water (and your own
time) by pre-rinsing? You sound like my mother-in-law, heheh

--
Jennifer



  #21   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
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"Jennifer" wrote in message
So... an independent consumer advocacy organization tests dishwashers,
and determines that dishes come out equally clean whether you pre-rinse
or not, and you would rather continue to waste the water (and your own
time) by pre-rinsing? You sound like my mother-in-law, heheh

--
Jennifer


What waste? Every manufacturer tells you to run the water until it is hot
so the DW has hot water. In a load of dishes, I may run a couple of quarts
at best to get the cooler water purged from the line. Save energy on the
pre-heat If you like extra food and grease sloshing around your dishes, OK
by me. I like to get the big stuff off. Time? Maybe 30 seconds. Not
every item gets the splash of water, only a few plates and bowls.


  #22   Report Post  
3D Peruna
 
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Jennifer wrote:
CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert wrote:


Same. My wife does not rinse the dishes properly before she puts them
in the washer. AND she does nto run the disposal before and after each
wash... Gotta do one or the other at least.



She should definitely run the disposal first, but depending on the
model of your dishwasher, she may not need to rinse the dishes at all.

Consumer Reports tests dishwashers regularly, using a mess of oatmeal
and spinach that's been allowed to harden on dishes overnight. They
reported last year that most current-model dishwashers had no problem
cleaning those dishes completely, with no soaking or rinsing.

As I recall, the biggest difference they found in the cleanliness of
dishes had nothing to do with rinsing; instead it was related to the
kind of cleaner used. The best dishwasher powders, liquids, and tabs
were the ones that contained enzymes. Cascade Complete and Electrasol
tabs are two of the products I remember performing well.

This was all a big revelation to me, since I'd been raised to believe
that you had to wash the dishes before washing the dishes, but I tried
it, and lo-and-behold, my dishes came out clean without rinsing.
Loading dishes without rinsing completely freaks my mother-in-law out
when she visits. Bonus!


We had some problems with a relatively new dishwasher not properly
draining. Had the service guys come out. They cleaned it all up. Then
the advised us to get rid of as much as possible before washing...no
need to pre-wash, but clean off as much as possible. It wasn't a
problem with the ability to wash they said, but that almost every
dishwasher they've serviced ended up getting a build up of gunk in the
drain system and will eventually have a problem. Sure the dishwasher
could get them clean, but it had a problem getting rid of all the stuff.

  #23   Report Post  
 
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I don't know what kind of dishwashers you guys have. But I had a 15
year old basic Hotpoint and for 8 years I put dishes in it without
pre-rinsing them. They often would sit for a few days before being
washed too. And I almost never had a problem with them not getting
clean. The few times I did, it was an obvious problem due to the
object being blocked in some fashion from the spray. Two spoons
resting againt each other, as an example. And of course there is an
occasional baking pan or something that was heavily soiled that still
has some material left, but that isn't a problem solved by pre-rinsing
either.

Now, I have a new GE Profile. It's much quieter, easier to load, and
holds a lot more stuff. Have had no problems with it either without
pre-washing. And nothing in the manual says anything about having to
run the hot water to make sure it;s hot before running the dishwasher.
I have a fairly long run from the hot water heater to the dishwasher.
And I fail to see how you;re saving any energy by running hot water
down the sink to save "pre-heat." Even if it worked that way, you'd
just be having the hot water heat it, instead of the dishwasher.

But the fact is, I don't think the dishwasher is heating the water
during the first cycle or two anyway. When started, my GE Profile
fills, washes a bit, and empties in just a couple of minutes for the
first cycle. I think the design idea is that luke warm water is ok to
start the first pass, before any detergent in even released. Houses
are pretty much designed this way, so it seem logical to expect it to
take a gallon or two of water before it gets really hot. In fact, the
only cycle I'm sure that it does heat the water, is the last cycle. At
that point, it sometimes just sits there, no washing for a min or two,
while I'm assuming the water is heated to the final wash temp. Then it
resumes and finishes the last cycle.

  #24   Report Post  
Bob Morrison
 
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In a previous post says...
I don't know what kind of dishwashers you guys have. But I had a 15
year old basic Hotpoint and for 8 years I put dishes in it without
pre-rinsing them. They often would sit for a few days before being
washed too


The problem isn't getting the dishes clean, it's getting the stuff that
comes off the dishes through the discharge pump and into the disposer.

I've yet to see a dishwasher that has an adequate screening system so
that fish bones (even small ones) don't plug up the discharge pipe. The
only solution is to rinse or scrape them off.

The other problem happens when a glass breaks inside the DW. Again,
most DW's don't have adequate screens to keep the pieces of glass out of
the discharge system. They will either plug up the discharge pipe, or
if they do make it to the disposer, you think you are grinding bones
when the disposer hits the piece of glass.

--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
  #25   Report Post  
 
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"I've yet to see a dishwasher that has an adequate screening system so
that fish bones (even small ones) don't plug up the discharge pipe.
The
only solution is to rinse or scrape them off. "

I believe what we were talking about was the need to always pre-rinse
dishes. Sure, if there are any obvious fish or other bones, or large
amounts of food, I scrape those off. That to me is different than
pre-rinsing the dishes. I know people who routinely rinse all the
items almost to the point that they're clean before going in the
dishwasher. I only scrape any obvious large items that won't disolve
and have never had a clog problem yet.

"The other problem happens when a glass breaks inside the DW. Again,
most DW's don't have adequate screens to keep the pieces of glass out
of
the discharge system. They will either plug up the discharge pipe, or
if they do make it to the disposer, you think you are grinding bones
when the disposer hits the piece of glass.

I've had a few glasses break over the years, but all the glass as far
as I could tell was contained in the bottom of the dishwasher and never
caused a problem.



  #26   Report Post  
PipeDown
 
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would someone who does not know how to operate a garbage disposal be
installing plumbing and electric services to it. very unlikely


"Sacramento Dave" wrote in message
...

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. ..

"Sacramento Dave" wrote in message
...

very plausable. if it wasn't for Edwin, I would have bit...

--
Respectfully,


CL Gilbert

Did I miss something ?, Do I have a Hook Mark?


The part about the float switch operating the disposal.

I believe the were describing there injector pump switch . I'm hook free





  #27   Report Post  
George E. Cawthon
 
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PipeDown wrote:
would someone who does not know how to operate a garbage disposal be
installing plumbing and electric services to it. very unlikely


"Sacramento Dave" wrote in message
...


Possible, even probable. Lots of people that
don't know how to drive also manage to screw up a
try at an oil change or a tire change. Hopefully
it would keep them off the road for a while but
usually some well meaning person comes along and
gets them going again.
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