Hello,

this one sounds obvious but I've already seen differences between what I
read in books and what is common practice so I figured I'd ask.

Getting ready to install porcelain floor tiles. We're going to use those
little plastic spacers to establish grout lines. It clearly says on the
package to remove the spacers prior to grouting. There is a tool especially
made for removing these things.

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

thanks for comments
ml

wrote in message

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just
leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

thanks for comments
ml

Just a guess that he's kidding you.

That was my first thought as well. My reply back to him was "you're kidding
right?". And he said no.. he does it that way all the time. This wouldn't
be the first thing he's done that demonstrates he's a bit of a hack. I just
hope to hell my new window doesn't leak everywhere and the stucco patch fall
out when the rainy season hits.... Has a general contractor's license
too... .. Ah well.. live and learn.. glad I caught this one before we
installed.

On Sun, 29 May 2005 16:08:37 GMT, wrote:

Hello,

this one sounds obvious but I've already seen differences between what I
read in books and what is common practice so I figured I'd ask.

Getting ready to install porcelain floor tiles. We're going to use those
little plastic spacers to establish grout lines. It clearly says on the
package to remove the spacers prior to grouting. There is a tool especially
made for removing these things.

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

thanks for comments
ml
I just had a bathroom floor replaced. The guy doing the tile work removed the
spacers from each section as it was completed. No tools, just picked them
gently out of the tile.

They were placed on the top of the seam as it was set.

____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

Hello again,

It now occurs to me to wonder about another aspect of this floor job. We're
going to lay the tiles over existing 1x1 sq ft vinyl tile. Installer says
this is fine as long as the tiles are firmly set and we've chipped away some
of the loose pieces around the border and used some floor leveler to build
up the slab to a height that's flush with the vinyl tile. He did go around
and pretty carefully inspect the floor for suspect tiles. Seemed to know
what he was looking for.

I've researched this a bit and didn't find any big red flags regarding
laying porcelain tile over vinyl. Basically just the same concerns that the
installer has, to make sure that the vinyl is firmly set.

Any other gotcha's regarding this I should be aware of? Is a special mortar
required? Any special surface prep of the existing vinyl needed? Again I
haven't seen anything jumping out of google searchs regarding this but if
someone has any info I'd appreciate it. Really like to do this right the
first time.

thanks for comments
ml

We're
going to lay the tiles over existing 1x1 sq ft vinyl tile. Installer says
this is fine

You can get some perspectives on this question by typing in "tile over
vinyl" (in quotes) in the Google "Groups" search bar. Overall advice is
you should never do this, as your plastic tiles are compressible and will
result in cracking and de-bonding of the mortar or mastic, ruining the tile
job...
This story, plus the willingness for the contractor to leave the spacers in
the tile, should tell you to discontinue your dependence on this fellow.

Thanks for the info. I have read the various google hits that come up on
the first few pages anyway. If any vinyl tile can be tiled over w/ceramic,
as some have reported using modified thinset, then I think these can. They
are thin, installed directly on the slab, and have almost no compressibility
left in them. They are very firmly set as well.

Had I put less trust in this contractor to start with I would have had us
remove the flooring prior to installing the cabinets. I really don't want
to try and remove the flooring now that the cabinets are installed.

I'm gonna get some professional tile setters opinions and bids and go from
there.

And yes, my installer is now my ex-installer.

thanks again
ml

wrote:
Thanks for the info. I have read the various google hits that come up on
the first few pages anyway. If any vinyl tile can be tiled over w/ceramic,
as some have reported using modified thinset, then I think these can. They
are thin, installed directly on the slab, and have almost no compressibility
left in them. They are very firmly set as well.

Had I put less trust in this contractor to start with I would have had us
remove the flooring prior to installing the cabinets. I really don't want
to try and remove the flooring now that the cabinets are installed.

I'm gonna get some professional tile setters opinions and bids and go from
there.

And yes, my installer is now my ex-installer.

thanks again
ml

I think you just made a decision that will save you both aggravation
and money!

wrote:
Hello,

this one sounds obvious but I've already seen differences between what I
read in books and what is common practice so I figured I'd ask.

Getting ready to install porcelain floor tiles. We're going to use those
little plastic spacers to establish grout lines. It clearly says on the
package to remove the spacers prior to grouting. There is a tool especially
made for removing these things.

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

thanks for comments
ml

Not commonly done, no. It's been done before when using thick quarry
tile but not a real good idea. I've removed floors that had them in
place still. You don't any special tools. Just use a pair of
needlenose pliers to yank'em before you grout.

Roger Taylor wrote:
We're

going to lay the tiles over existing 1x1 sq ft vinyl tile. Installer says
this is fine


You can get some perspectives on this question by typing in "tile over
vinyl" (in quotes) in the Google "Groups" search bar. Overall advice is
you should never do this, as your plastic tiles are compressible and will
result in cracking and de-bonding of the mortar or mastic, ruining the tile
job...
This story, plus the willingness for the contractor to leave the spacers in
the tile, should tell you to discontinue your dependence on this fellow.




Okay for the most part, but your wisdom concerning "compressible" blah
blah does not necessarily apply to vinyl sheet goods or even the vinyl
tiles. Tile is installed over vinyl 'sheet' goods all of the time and
is an acceptable practice by TCA standards. However, I would not
install over vinyl 'tiles', and as the OP mentioned he has some chipped
ones.

wrote:
Hello again,

It now occurs to me to wonder about another aspect of this floor job. We're
going to lay the tiles over existing 1x1 sq ft vinyl tile. Installer says
this is fine as long as the tiles are firmly set and we've chipped away some
of the loose pieces around the border and used some floor leveler to build
up the slab to a height that's flush with the vinyl tile. He did go around
and pretty carefully inspect the floor for suspect tiles. Seemed to know
what he was looking for.

I've researched this a bit and didn't find any big red flags regarding
laying porcelain tile over vinyl. Basically just the same concerns that the
installer has, to make sure that the vinyl is firmly set.

Any other gotcha's regarding this I should be aware of? Is a special mortar
required? Any special surface prep of the existing vinyl needed? Again I
haven't seen anything jumping out of google searchs regarding this but if
someone has any info I'd appreciate it. Really like to do this right the
first time.

thanks for comments
ml

Read my reply to Roger Taylor. And you've made a wise decision to
consult someone else.

there are some chipped ones yes but he cut them back until he hit firmly set
tile and then troweled in floor leveler (Jasco) to get a level surface.
Also where the tiles are chipped are areas that are actually underneath the
base cabinets and up against the toe kick. Those areas won't get much
vertical force on them. Like I said, if it's possible to do at all then I
think it can be done here. I was more concerned with prep of the surface
for adhesion than the integrity of the surface flexion.

still, I very much appreciate the input.

ml

wrote:
there are some chipped ones yes but he cut them back until he hit firmly set
tile and then troweled in floor leveler (Jasco) to get a level surface.
Also where the tiles are chipped are areas that are actually underneath the
base cabinets and up against the toe kick. Those areas won't get much
vertical force on them. Like I said, if it's possible to do at all then I
think it can be done here. I was more concerned with prep of the surface
for adhesion than the integrity of the surface flexion.

still, I very much appreciate the input.

ml

I probably would have scraped up the tiles. I've run heavy tile over
commercial vinyl tiles before, but not over the thinner residential ones.

Sigh,

I get yet another clue that the contractor I hired had no clue as I install
the toe kick facing on the base cabinets.
This would have been so much easier to do if we had done it before
installing the cabinets. But no... so now its get my face into the floor as
I try nailing this delicate maple facing to the toe kicks.

wrote in message
installing the cabinets. But no... so now its get my face into the floor
as
I try nailing this delicate maple facing to the toe kicks.

Just enough nails to hold it in place while the glue dries.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
wrote in message

installing the cabinets. But no... so now its get my face into the floor
as
I try nailing this delicate maple facing to the toe kicks.


Just enough nails to hold it in place while the glue dries.



Brad nailer maybe.

On 29-May-2005, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:

Just enough nails to hold it in place while the glue dries.

I asked about just gluing all these trim pieces in place but apparently
that's a really bad idea in a kitchen where the wood is going to move a lot
from the humidity. Oh well. Using 1" #18 brads so perhaps "nailing" was a
bit of a misnomer.

Afraid to use a power nailer. This stuff splits very easily. Cracked 1 toe
kick endcap before i decided to snip the heads off as well. Yes, that was
with pre-drilling. Not pre-drilling is a non-starter.

All is well now. Things proceeding nicely. First time I've done any finish
work like this and aside from that one crack everything is looking good.

The cove moulding will be the test.

This would have been so much easier to do if we had done it before
installing the cabinets. But no... so now its get my face into the floor
as
I try nailing this delicate maple facing to the toe kicks.

Just did mine, "after". Used my "air" powered finishing nailer and 13/16"
18 GA nails.
Practiced first so I had a low setting on the air so as not to "pound" the
heads in too far (~1/16th).

This was after the cabinets were in and the U/c heat vent and vac-pan were
put in place.
Cant see the fin nail heads unless I get down and lay on the floor. Wife
will fill them with matching colored wax "crayon" if it bothers her.

R

In article , G Henslee says...

wrote:
Hello,

this one sounds obvious but I've already seen differences between what I
read in books and what is common practice so I figured I'd ask.

Getting ready to install porcelain floor tiles. We're going to use those
little plastic spacers to establish grout lines. It clearly says on the
package to remove the spacers prior to grouting. There is a tool especially
made for removing these things.

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

thanks for comments
ml

Not commonly done, no. It's been done before when using thick quarry
tile but not a real good idea. I've removed floors that had them in
place still. You don't any special tools. Just use a pair of
needlenose pliers to yank'em before you grout.

Do you remove vinyl sheet flooring before tiling? If so, how do you remove it
from the floor?

Banty

Banty wrote:
In article , G Henslee says...

wrote:

Hello,

this one sounds obvious but I've already seen differences between what I
read in books and what is common practice so I figured I'd ask.

Getting ready to install porcelain floor tiles. We're going to use those
little plastic spacers to establish grout lines. It clearly says on the
package to remove the spacers prior to grouting. There is a tool especially
made for removing these things.

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

thanks for comments
ml

Not commonly done, no. It's been done before when using thick quarry
tile but not a real good idea. I've removed floors that had them in
place still. You don't any special tools. Just use a pair of
needlenose pliers to yank'em before you grout.


Do you remove vinyl sheet flooring before tiling? If so, how do you remove it
from the floor?

Banty


If it's loose in several places or it's a perimeter glue-down product,
remove it. I use a power scraper - Makita.

In article , G Henslee says...

Banty wrote:
In article , G Henslee says...

wrote:

Hello,

this one sounds obvious but I've already seen differences between what I
read in books and what is common practice so I figured I'd ask.

Getting ready to install porcelain floor tiles. We're going to use those
little plastic spacers to establish grout lines. It clearly says on the
package to remove the spacers prior to grouting. There is a tool especially
made for removing these things.

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

thanks for comments
ml

Not commonly done, no. It's been done before when using thick quarry
tile but not a real good idea. I've removed floors that had them in
place still. You don't any special tools. Just use a pair of
needlenose pliers to yank'em before you grout.


Do you remove vinyl sheet flooring before tiling? If so, how do you remove it
from the floor?

Banty


If it's loose in several places or it's a perimeter glue-down product,
remove it. I use a power scraper - Makita.

It's completely glued down (or at least a lot more than perimeter), good
condition, farily new (installed in 1996).

Still remove it?

Banty

Banty

Getting ready to install porcelain floor tiles. We're going to use
those
little plastic spacers to establish grout lines. It clearly says on
the
package to remove the spacers prior to grouting. There is a tool
especially
made for removing these things.

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just
leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

If you are using the spacers correctly, they should stick up from the floor.
There's no way that you could leave them in place.

These are the little "+" pieces. You stand them up between the tiles. The
cross part of the "+" (the "-" part) fits on top of the tile. The bottom
part of the "+" gives you the gap. The top part of the "+" gives you
something to grab to remove them.

Noozer wrote:



If you are using the spacers correctly, they should stick up from the floor.
There's no way that you could leave them in place.

These are the little "+" pieces. You stand them up between the tiles. The
cross part of the "+" (the "-" part) fits on top of the tile. The bottom
part of the "+" gives you the gap. The top part of the "+" gives you
something to grab to remove them.



Nice try, but that's nonsense and you're making a mountain out of a
molehill.

The spacers are stuck in as one installs tiles. There's no set method of
"fitting them on top of the tile" in order to be "correctly" using them.
Stick the things in there to get the spacing, then yank them out with
small needlenose piers before grouting.

Banty wrote:
In article , G Henslee says...

Banty wrote:

In article , G Henslee says...


wrote:


Hello,

this one sounds obvious but I've already seen differences between what I
read in books and what is common practice so I figured I'd ask.

Getting ready to install porcelain floor tiles. We're going to use those
little plastic spacers to establish grout lines. It clearly says on the
package to remove the spacers prior to grouting. There is a tool especially
made for removing these things.

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

thanks for comments
ml

Not commonly done, no. It's been done before when using thick quarry
tile but not a real good idea. I've removed floors that had them in
place still. You don't any special tools. Just use a pair of
needlenose pliers to yank'em before you grout.


Do you remove vinyl sheet flooring before tiling? If so, how do you remove it
from the floor?

Banty


If it's loose in several places or it's a perimeter glue-down product,
remove it. I use a power scraper - Makita.


It's completely glued down (or at least a lot more than perimeter), good
condition, farily new (installed in 1996).

Still remove it?

Banty

Banty


Based upon *your* desc. I wouldn't remove it. Remember, that vinyl
sheet performs two services for you. Anti-fracture as well as a
moisture inhibitor for hydrostatic pressure. You should use a latex
modified thinset.

Is that a joke?
So I guess all of the 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 etc inch spacers all give you a real
spacing of 1/8 in or whatever that's the thickness of the things.

You lay them down flat, not vertically. Sheesh.

The tool "especially engineered for removing them" costs about $5 at the
despot. As Mr. Henslee notes a pair of needlenose pliers would do just
fine.

wrote:
Is that a joke?

It is to me. What he's advocating necessitates using 4 spacers at each
corner.

So I guess all of the 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 etc inch spacers all give you a real
spacing of 1/8 in or whatever that's the thickness of the things.

They're about 1/8" thick, yes.


You lay them down flat, not vertically. Sheesh.

See, already a pro ;o)

In article , G Henslee says...

Banty wrote:
In article , G Henslee says...

Banty wrote:

In article , G Henslee says...


wrote:


Hello,

this one sounds obvious but I've already seen differences between what I
read in books and what is common practice so I figured I'd ask.

Getting ready to install porcelain floor tiles. We're going to use those
little plastic spacers to establish grout lines. It clearly says on the
package to remove the spacers prior to grouting. There is a tool especially
made for removing these things.

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

thanks for comments
ml

Not commonly done, no. It's been done before when using thick quarry
tile but not a real good idea. I've removed floors that had them in
place still. You don't any special tools. Just use a pair of
needlenose pliers to yank'em before you grout.


Do you remove vinyl sheet flooring before tiling? If so, how do you remove it
from the floor?

Banty


If it's loose in several places or it's a perimeter glue-down product,
remove it. I use a power scraper - Makita.


It's completely glued down (or at least a lot more than perimeter), good
condition, farily new (installed in 1996).

Still remove it?

Banty

Banty


Based upon *your* desc. I wouldn't remove it. Remember, that vinyl
sheet performs two services for you. Anti-fracture as well as a
moisture inhibitor for hydrostatic pressure. You should use a latex
modified thinset.

I'm not sure what you mean..

Anti-fracture meaning good for the tile which will go over, or an advantage I'll
lose with tile (I know that..)? And where does being a "moisture inhibitor for
hydrostatic pressure" come in? If it's relevant, this kitchen is over a heated
bottom floor/basememt in a hillside ranch.

Thanks,
Banty

"Rudy" wrote in message
news:YNzme.1518057$6l.1082955@pd7tw2no...
This would have been so much easier to do if we had done it before
installing the cabinets. But no... so now its get my face into the floor
as
I try nailing this delicate maple facing to the toe kicks.

Just did mine, "after". Used my "air" powered finishing nailer and 13/16"
18 GA nails.
Practiced first so I had a low setting on the air so as not to "pound" the
heads in too far (~1/16th).

This was after the cabinets were in and the U/c heat vent and vac-pan were
put in place.
Cant see the fin nail heads unless I get down and lay on the floor. Wife
will fill them with matching colored wax "crayon" if it bothers her.

R
Rudy -- Either you haven't been married very long, or there is a grammatical
/ logical problem in your last sentence -- I think you meant to write:

"I will have to fill them with matching colored wax "crayon" if it
bothers my wife." :-)

I don't lay the spacers down flat. I stand them on end in the correct
orientation, use more of them, and they are easy to pluck out before
grouting. They don't have to be at the corners to properly align the tiles
if you use two per side. This way you can use them over and over again.
Placing them after laying the tiles lets you squirm the tile to seat and
level it to the others. I just finished grouting a bathroom this morning,
and used a flexible 3" putty knife, along with a drywall coumpound tray, to
force cuts of grout into the cracks to keep from scratching the marble tiles
with the normal method. After a little setup time, a damp sponge was all
that was needed to diagonally clean the grout lines. I tried this for the
first time on this room, and I really liked the process and the results.

RJ

wrote in message
news:8Plme.1041$rp.233@fed1read02...
Hello,

this one sounds obvious but I've already seen differences between what I
read in books and what is common practice so I figured I'd ask.

Getting ready to install porcelain floor tiles. We're going to use those
little plastic spacers to establish grout lines. It clearly says on the
package to remove the spacers prior to grouting. There is a tool
especially
made for removing these things.

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just
leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

thanks for comments
ml

Banty wrote:
In article , G Henslee says...

Banty wrote:

In article , G Henslee says...


Banty wrote:


In article , G Henslee says...



wrote:



Hello,

this one sounds obvious but I've already seen differences between what I
read in books and what is common practice so I figured I'd ask.

Getting ready to install porcelain floor tiles. We're going to use those
little plastic spacers to establish grout lines. It clearly says on the
package to remove the spacers prior to grouting. There is a tool especially
made for removing these things.

Installer (or perhaps soon to be ex-installer) says he plans on just leaving
them in and grouting on top of them. This seems crazy to me. Is this
commonly done?

thanks for comments
ml

Not commonly done, no. It's been done before when using thick quarry
tile but not a real good idea. I've removed floors that had them in
place still. You don't any special tools. Just use a pair of
needlenose pliers to yank'em before you grout.


Do you remove vinyl sheet flooring before tiling? If so, how do you remove it

from the floor?

Banty


If it's loose in several places or it's a perimeter glue-down product,
remove it. I use a power scraper - Makita.


It's completely glued down (or at least a lot more than perimeter), good
condition, farily new (installed in 1996).

Still remove it?

Banty

Banty


Based upon *your* desc. I wouldn't remove it. Remember, that vinyl
sheet performs two services for you. Anti-fracture as well as a
moisture inhibitor for hydrostatic pressure. You should use a latex
modified thinset.


I'm not sure what you mean..

Anti-fracture meaning good for the tile which will go over, or an advantage I'll
lose with tile (I know that..)? And where does being a "moisture inhibitor for
hydrostatic pressure" come in? If it's relevant, this kitchen is over a heated
bottom floor/basememt in a hillside ranch.

Thanks,
Banty



Anti-fracture. Slabs crack. A membrane can inhibit the crack
transferring through the tile.

Hydrostatic pressure and moisture?

http://www.glaciernw.com/assets/resources/CIP28p.pdf

Rudy -- Either you haven't been married very long, or there is a
grammatical
/ logical problem in your last sentence -- I think you meant to write:

"I will have to fill them with matching colored wax "crayon" if it
bothers my wife." :-)

Just had 18th Anniversary last week and actually, she will be doing it, if
it needs doing. She's a hell of a worker.
We just got thru shovelling/spreading 4 yards of roadbase 3/4" minus
driveway gravel (~4 TONS) after dinner to get ready for our concrete
driveway.
We'll be doing the same with another 5 yards for the patio/hot tub slab at
the back tomorrow.
She also stained and "poly"-ed 1000 lin ft of vertical grain 1X6 Fir and
painted another 1000 lin 1X6 MDF baseboard and all the walls in our new
house.
I get to put the Fir and MDF up but shes definitely the painter/spackler.
R

In article , G Henslee says...

Banty wrote:
In article , G Henslee says...



::snip::

It's completely glued down (or at least a lot more than perimeter), good
condition, farily new (installed in 1996).

Still remove it?

Banty

Banty


Based upon *your* desc. I wouldn't remove it. Remember, that vinyl
sheet performs two services for you. Anti-fracture as well as a
moisture inhibitor for hydrostatic pressure. You should use a latex
modified thinset.


I'm not sure what you mean..

Anti-fracture meaning good for the tile which will go over, or an advantage I'll
lose with tile (I know that..)? And where does being a "moisture inhibitor for
hydrostatic pressure" come in? If it's relevant, this kitchen is over a heated
bottom floor/basememt in a hillside ranch.

Thanks,
Banty



Anti-fracture. Slabs crack. A membrane can inhibit the crack
transferring through the tile.

Hydrostatic pressure and moisture?

http://www.glaciernw.com/assets/resources/CIP28p.pdf

That's what I wondered if that's what you meant.

Like I said (perhaps not clearly enough), the tile is not on a concrete slab -
it's on the floor above the basement.

Banty

Banty wrote:
In article , G Henslee says...

Banty wrote:

In article , G Henslee says...



::snip::


It's completely glued down (or at least a lot more than perimeter), good
condition, farily new (installed in 1996).

Still remove it?

Banty

Banty


Based upon *your* desc. I wouldn't remove it. Remember, that vinyl
sheet performs two services for you. Anti-fracture as well as a
moisture inhibitor for hydrostatic pressure. You should use a latex
modified thinset.


I'm not sure what you mean..

Anti-fracture meaning good for the tile which will go over, or an advantage I'll
lose with tile (I know that..)? And where does being a "moisture inhibitor for
hydrostatic pressure" come in? If it's relevant, this kitchen is over a heated
bottom floor/basememt in a hillside ranch.

Thanks,
Banty



Anti-fracture. Slabs crack. A membrane can inhibit the crack
transferring through the tile.

Hydrostatic pressure and moisture?

http://www.glaciernw.com/assets/resources/CIP28p.pdf


That's what I wondered if that's what you meant.

Like I said (perhaps not clearly enough), the tile is not on a concrete slab -
it's on the floor above the basement.

Banty


Then you have a whole different set of conditions and issues to deal with.

In article , G Henslee says...

Banty wrote:
In article , G Henslee says...

Banty wrote:

In article , G Henslee says...



::snip::


It's completely glued down (or at least a lot more than perimeter), good
condition, farily new (installed in 1996).

Still remove it?

Banty

Banty


Based upon *your* desc. I wouldn't remove it. Remember, that vinyl
sheet performs two services for you. Anti-fracture as well as a
moisture inhibitor for hydrostatic pressure. You should use a latex
modified thinset.


I'm not sure what you mean..

Anti-fracture meaning good for the tile which will go over, or an advantage I'll
lose with tile (I know that..)? And where does being a "moisture inhibitor for
hydrostatic pressure" come in? If it's relevant, this kitchen is over a heated
bottom floor/basememt in a hillside ranch.

Thanks,
Banty



Anti-fracture. Slabs crack. A membrane can inhibit the crack
transferring through the tile.

Hydrostatic pressure and moisture?

http://www.glaciernw.com/assets/resources/CIP28p.pdf


That's what I wondered if that's what you meant.

Like I said (perhaps not clearly enough), the tile is not on a concrete slab -
it's on the floor above the basement.

Banty


Then you have a whole different set of conditions and issues to deal with.

::googling for original post in thread::

....thought so.

Nope, this discussion wasn't specific to tile over a slab floor.

So - what issues affect tiling over glue-down vinyl on a second floor?

Banty

Banty wrote:
In article , G Henslee says...

Banty wrote:

In article , G Henslee says...


Banty wrote:


In article , G Henslee says...


::snip::



It's completely glued down (or at least a lot more than perimeter), good
condition, farily new (installed in 1996).

Still remove it?

Banty

Banty


Based upon *your* desc. I wouldn't remove it. Remember, that vinyl
sheet performs two services for you. Anti-fracture as well as a
moisture inhibitor for hydrostatic pressure. You should use a latex
modified thinset.


I'm not sure what you mean..

Anti-fracture meaning good for the tile which will go over, or an advantage I'll
lose with tile (I know that..)? And where does being a "moisture inhibitor for
hydrostatic pressure" come in? If it's relevant, this kitchen is over a heated
bottom floor/basememt in a hillside ranch.

Thanks,
Banty



Anti-fracture. Slabs crack. A membrane can inhibit the crack
transferring through the tile.

Hydrostatic pressure and moisture?

http://www.glaciernw.com/assets/resources/CIP28p.pdf


That's what I wondered if that's what you meant.

Like I said (perhaps not clearly enough), the tile is not on a concrete slab -
it's on the floor above the basement.

Banty


Then you have a whole different set of conditions and issues to deal with.


::googling for original post in thread::

...thought so.

Nope, this discussion wasn't specific to tile over a slab floor.

Nor was it not specific. What's your point?


So - what issues affect tiling over glue-down vinyl on a second floor?

Banty


Proper sub-floor construction, substrate, issue of flex, etc.

Check for some links I left in the Three-season porch deck tiling.......
thread, and maybe others.

Good luck.

I have seen the leave in spaces will discolor the above grout with age.
Not sure why this happens, but the grout is consistantly miscolored at
the corners

Thankfully it wasn't my tile.
I perfer the rubberly '+' shaped spacers that stay on top the tile with
only one leg in.