I am aware that this involves specialist equipment (flue gas
analyser?) what this actually involves and what it achieves.

Lawrence

usenet at lklyne dt co dt uk

Lawrence wrote:
I am aware that this involves specialist equipment (flue gas
analyser?) what this actually involves and what it achieves.


The installation manual includes instructions for commissioning but heres a
breakdown of what a commissioning engineer should do (not neccessarily in
that order)

1 check the boiler is full of water and leak free.

2 check the electrics are wired correctly including earth bonding to the
oil pipe and other pipework, 5A protective fuse with double break isolator
in the supply to the controls (switchspur) and heat resistant wiring where
in contact with hot surfaces.

3 check the controls and plumbing meet current requirements including
operation of thermostats and motorised valves or twin pumpset to give
independant control of heating and hot water temperatures

4 check the oil supply tank complies with current environmental
protection requirements viz: it should have secondary containment if
anything other than for a domestic property (such as a village shop,
village hall, church, pub etc etc etc. For a domestic property this is
excepted provided the tank meets all the following list
less than 2500 litres capacity, serving only one dwelling or flat, not on
hard ground where leakage could reach a waterway drain or stream, not
within 10 metres of controlled water, not within 50 metres of a borehole or
spring. tank must be visible from the tanker drivers point of operation (by
the tanker). If any of these are not met then again a secondary containment
is required. secondary containment can be by either a bund around the tank
or a double skin tank.

5 check the tank location not within 750mm of a boundary fence or
hedge, not within 1800mm of an opening into a building unless a non
combustible fire radiation barrier is provided

6 check the oil pipe is purged and full of oil all the way from tank to
burner and the firestop valve is of an approved pattern remote sensing type
with the actual valve outside and the sensor in the (usually provided above
the burner) clip in the boiler casing. Operation can be tested by immersing
the bulb in hot water at about 85 to 90 degrees C

7 check the combustion air ventilation and if in a compartment the
cooling ventilation is correct for the appliance.

8 check the boiler baffles (retarders) are correctly located on their
supports within the combustion chamber and the thermostat phials are
correctly located in their pockets. If the boiler is piped into a sealed
system check the pressure relief valve is piped to a safe place to
discharge potentially scalding water in the event it operates due to a
fault.

9 undo and remove the burner and check the airways are clear of
packaging etc., check the burner nozzle is the correct size and spray angle
etc (this info is required for the certificate)

10 reassemble the unit and fit a temporary oil pressure gauge for use
during the commissioning run. Recheck for leaks etc, set the controls to
call for heat and fire up the unit. The burner control may need resetting
from lockout condition which most of them seem to come shipped in. If you
have primed the pipework and pump correctly the burner may go first time
but you may need to vent the air from the oil pump before combustion will
establish cleanly. Do not keep resetting a dry pump as it is amazingly easy
to destroy even a new pump in this way.

11 when the burner is firing cleanly allow it to run for a few minutes
to warm up per the booklet and take combustion analysis readings using
either electronic analyser or Fyrite chemical set. Smoke to be sampled with
a Bacharac pump and filter paper or by electronic analyser if the model you
use is capable of smoke testing. Check oil pressure and airslide to spec
sheet then adjust/tweak oil pressure to spec and air if neccessary to
achieve parameters to match specification with boiler/burner sheets
Complete details on commissioning record sheet

12 check flow of heat to hot water primary coil and radiators. Balance rad
flows as per faq. Check again for weeps on pipes/joints especially with
kerosine as it is a very searching fluid.

HTH Ive done it from memory if I find a bit of spare time I'll get my books
out and go over them for omissions

--
Please note antispam measures - do not hit reply
Horse sense is what horses have that makes them not bet on people - W.C.
Fields

Regards,
John

John wrote:

1 check the boiler is full of water and leak free.

He didn't do that, but I had.


2 check the electrics are wired correctly including earth bonding to the
oil pipe and other pipework, 5A protective fuse with double break isolator
in the supply to the controls (switchspur) and heat resistant wiring where
in contact with hot surfaces.

Ditto.


3 check the controls and plumbing meet current requirements including
operation of thermostats and motorised valves or twin pumpset to give
independant control of heating and hot water temperatures

Ditto.


4 check the oil supply tank complies with current environmental
protection requirements viz: it should have secondary containment if
anything other than for a domestic property (such as a village shop,
village hall, church, pub etc etc etc. For a domestic property this is
excepted provided the tank meets all the following list
less than 2500 litres capacity, serving only one dwelling or flat, not on
hard ground where leakage could reach a waterway drain or stream, not
within 10 metres of controlled water, not within 50 metres of a borehole or
spring. tank must be visible from the tanker drivers point of operation (by
the tanker). If any of these are not met then again a secondary containment
is required. secondary containment can be by either a bund around the tank
or a double skin tank.

Ditto.


5 check the tank location not within 750mm of a boundary fence or
hedge, not within 1800mm of an opening into a building unless a non
combustible fire radiation barrier is provided

Ditto.


6 check the oil pipe is purged and full of oil all the way from tank to
burner and the firestop valve is of an approved pattern remote sensing type
with the actual valve outside and the sensor in the (usually provided above
the burner) clip in the boiler casing. Operation can be tested by immersing
the bulb in hot water at about 85 to 90 degrees C

Ditto.


7 check the combustion air ventilation and if in a compartment the
cooling ventilation is correct for the appliance.

Dunno. He may have.

8 check the boiler baffles (retarders) are correctly located on their
supports within the combustion chamber and the thermostat phials are
correctly located in their pockets. If the boiler is piped into a sealed
system check the pressure relief valve is piped to a safe place to
discharge potentially scalding water in the event it operates due to a
fault.

He did look at the baffles, good point.


9 undo and remove the burner and check the airways are clear of
packaging etc., check the burner nozzle is the correct size and spray angle
etc (this info is required for the certificate)

He did take the burner out and put it back in.


10 reassemble the unit and fit a temporary oil pressure gauge for use
during the commissioning run. Recheck for leaks etc, set the controls to
call for heat and fire up the unit. The burner control may need resetting
from lockout condition which most of them seem to come shipped in. If you
have primed the pipework and pump correctly the burner may go first time
but you may need to vent the air from the oil pump before combustion will
establish cleanly. Do not keep resetting a dry pump as it is amazingly easy
to destroy even a new pump in this way.

No oil pressure gauge was in evidence.


11 when the burner is firing cleanly allow it to run for a few minutes
to warm up per the booklet and take combustion analysis readings using
either electronic analyser or Fyrite chemical set. Smoke to be sampled with
a Bacharac pump and filter paper or by electronic analyser if the model you
use is capable of smoke testing. Check oil pressure and airslide to spec
sheet then adjust/tweak oil pressure to spec and air if neccessary to
achieve parameters to match specification with boiler/burner sheets
Complete details on commissioning record sheet

Yup, did that.


12 check flow of heat to hot water primary coil and radiators. Balance rad
flows as per faq. Check again for weeps on pipes/joints especially with
kerosine as it is a very searching fluid.

Bwahaha...no, he didn't pay any attention to the wet side. But
I'd installed it, so it was all purrfect.


HTH Ive done it from memory if I find a bit of spare time I'll get my books
out and go over them for omissions

Certainly interesting, thanks. But when you said "he should" do
this, how and where is that defined?

--
Grunff

Thanks all.

On Wed, 03 Sep 2003 20:35:59 +0100, Grunff wrote:

John wrote:

1 check the boiler is full of water and leak free.

He didn't do that, but I had.


2 check the electrics are wired correctly including earth bonding to the
oil pipe and other pipework, 5A protective fuse with double break isolator
in the supply to the controls (switchspur) and heat resistant wiring where
in contact with hot surfaces.

Ditto.


3 check the controls and plumbing meet current requirements including
operation of thermostats and motorised valves or twin pumpset to give
independant control of heating and hot water temperatures

Ditto.


4 check the oil supply tank complies with current environmental
protection requirements viz: it should have secondary containment if
anything other than for a domestic property (such as a village shop,
village hall, church, pub etc etc etc. For a domestic property this is
excepted provided the tank meets all the following list
less than 2500 litres capacity, serving only one dwelling or flat, not on
hard ground where leakage could reach a waterway drain or stream, not
within 10 metres of controlled water, not within 50 metres of a borehole or
spring. tank must be visible from the tanker drivers point of operation (by
the tanker). If any of these are not met then again a secondary containment
is required. secondary containment can be by either a bund around the tank
or a double skin tank.

Ditto.


5 check the tank location not within 750mm of a boundary fence or
hedge, not within 1800mm of an opening into a building unless a non
combustible fire radiation barrier is provided

Ditto.


6 check the oil pipe is purged and full of oil all the way from tank to
burner and the firestop valve is of an approved pattern remote sensing type
with the actual valve outside and the sensor in the (usually provided above
the burner) clip in the boiler casing. Operation can be tested by immersing
the bulb in hot water at about 85 to 90 degrees C

Ditto.


7 check the combustion air ventilation and if in a compartment the
cooling ventilation is correct for the appliance.

Dunno. He may have.

8 check the boiler baffles (retarders) are correctly located on their
supports within the combustion chamber and the thermostat phials are
correctly located in their pockets. If the boiler is piped into a sealed
system check the pressure relief valve is piped to a safe place to
discharge potentially scalding water in the event it operates due to a
fault.

He did look at the baffles, good point.


9 undo and remove the burner and check the airways are clear of
packaging etc., check the burner nozzle is the correct size and spray angle
etc (this info is required for the certificate)

He did take the burner out and put it back in.


10 reassemble the unit and fit a temporary oil pressure gauge for use
during the commissioning run. Recheck for leaks etc, set the controls to
call for heat and fire up the unit. The burner control may need resetting
from lockout condition which most of them seem to come shipped in. If you
have primed the pipework and pump correctly the burner may go first time
but you may need to vent the air from the oil pump before combustion will
establish cleanly. Do not keep resetting a dry pump as it is amazingly easy
to destroy even a new pump in this way.

No oil pressure gauge was in evidence.


11 when the burner is firing cleanly allow it to run for a few minutes
to warm up per the booklet and take combustion analysis readings using
either electronic analyser or Fyrite chemical set. Smoke to be sampled with
a Bacharac pump and filter paper or by electronic analyser if the model you
use is capable of smoke testing. Check oil pressure and airslide to spec
sheet then adjust/tweak oil pressure to spec and air if neccessary to
achieve parameters to match specification with boiler/burner sheets
Complete details on commissioning record sheet

Yup, did that.


12 check flow of heat to hot water primary coil and radiators. Balance rad
flows as per faq. Check again for weeps on pipes/joints especially with
kerosine as it is a very searching fluid.

Bwahaha...no, he didn't pay any attention to the wet side. But
I'd installed it, so it was all purrfect.


HTH Ive done it from memory if I find a bit of spare time I'll get my books
out and go over them for omissions

Certainly interesting, thanks. But when you said "he should" do
this, how and where is that defined?

Lawrence

usenet at lklyne dt co dt uk

"Grunff" wrote in message
...

SNIP commissioning procedure for oil boiler


Certainly interesting, thanks. But when you said "he should" do
this, how and where is that defined?

Most of the actual boiler mechanical bits etc are provided in the
installation manual with the boiler. The remainder is from OFTEC
publications which are the basis for most of the documentation and
standards for the "new" building control requirements. Take a look at
www.oftec.org

Thinking about the current thread about oil boiler not working it seems potentially useful to remind everyone of some historical threads.