I just bought a Canadian Rangehood (Cypress). The manual that comes
with the it doesn't tell anything on how to connect the wires.

Out of 3 wires for connection, 1 green is for neutral. Then there are
two white wires. One white wire has some letter printed on the
insulation (such as 105C 18AWG etc). The other white wire has nothing
printed on it.

There is no WEB site or technical support number supplied on the
booklet. I am guess the wire with prints is the hot one, and the other
neutral. What the consequence will be if I connect the wire in that
way when it is the other way around?

I opened the junction box inside the rangehood. There were lot of
wirenuts there for the 2 motor, 2 speed rangehood with lights. Each of
those two white wires are connected to black, white, yellow, brown wires
all over.

"unknown user" wrote in message
news
I just bought a Canadian Rangehood (Cypress). The manual that comes
with the it doesn't tell anything on how to connect the wires.

Out of 3 wires for connection, 1 green is for neutral. Then there are
two white wires. One white wire has some letter printed on the
insulation (such as 105C 18AWG etc). The other white wire has nothing
printed on it.

The printing doesn't indicate anything but the kind of wire & insulation
used.

Green should be grounded to the electrical box. There should be a black and
white wire coming out of the box. Black being hot and white being neutral.

Is this hood ULA or CSA approved? I can't see how it would be without the
proper colour wiring coming out of the unit.

Were there no installation instructions or a phone # to contact the company?

In article , unknown user wrote:
I just bought a Canadian Rangehood (Cypress). The manual that comes
with the it doesn't tell anything on how to connect the wires.

Out of 3 wires for connection, 1 green is for neutral.

Nope. Green is for ground. Not neutral.

Then there are
two white wires. One white wire has some letter printed on the
insulation (such as 105C 18AWG etc). The other white wire has nothing
printed on it.

There is no WEB site or technical support number supplied on the
booklet. I am guess the wire with prints is the hot one, and the other
neutral.

You have a 50% chance of being right... :-) No reason, really, to assume one
way or the other. Best to test and make sure.

What the consequence will be if I connect the wire in that
way when it is the other way around?

The fan motor will operate properly either way, but reversing hot and neutral
creates the possibility of an electric shock hazard when changing light bulbs,
because the shell of the light socket will be live even with the switch off.

I opened the junction box inside the rangehood. There were lot of
wirenuts there for the 2 motor, 2 speed rangehood with lights. Each of
those two white wires are connected to black, white, yellow, brown wires
all over.

Do you have a multimeter? If so, it should be pretty easy to tell which is the
neutral and which is the hot. The meter will show continuity between the shell
of the light socket(s) and one of the two wires; that's the neutral. Connect
it to the white wire of the supply cable.

To double-check, look for continuity between the center contact of the light
socket(s) and the *other* wi there should be continuity with the light
switch on, and not with it off. That's the hot. Wrap black or red tape around
it to identify it, and connect it to the black wire of the supply cable.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

Noozer wrote:

....
Is this hood ULA or CSA approved? I can't see how it would be without the
proper colour wiring coming out of the unit.
....

Doug has the right answer--check continuity to find out if there really
is no indication.

But, I'm wondering if the insulation isn't shown whether one conductor
is darkened to indicate neutral/source a la switches/outlets?

"unknown user" wrote in message
news
I just bought a Canadian Rangehood (Cypress). The manual that comes
with the it doesn't tell anything on how to connect the wires.

Out of 3 wires for connection, 1 green is for neutral. Then there are
two white wires. One white wire has some letter printed on the
insulation (such as 105C 18AWG etc). The other white wire has nothing
printed on it.

There is no WEB site or technical support number supplied on the
booklet. I am guess the wire with prints is the hot one, and the other
neutral. What the consequence will be if I connect the wire in that
way when it is the other way around?

I opened the junction box inside the rangehood. There were lot of
wirenuts there for the 2 motor, 2 speed rangehood with lights. Each of
those two white wires are connected to black, white, yellow, brown wires
all over.


What voltage is the motor rated for?

Color codes inside appliances mean squat in my experience.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , unknown user wrote:

I just bought a Canadian Rangehood (Cypress). The manual that comes
with the it doesn't tell anything on how to connect the wires.

Out of 3 wires for connection, 1 green is for neutral.


Nope. Green is for ground. Not neutral.


Then there are
two white wires. One white wire has some letter printed on the
insulation (such as 105C 18AWG etc). The other white wire has nothing
printed on it.

There is no WEB site or technical support number supplied on the
booklet. I am guess the wire with prints is the hot one, and the other
neutral.


You have a 50% chance of being right... :-) No reason, really, to assume one
way or the other. Best to test and make sure.


What the consequence will be if I connect the wire in that
way when it is the other way around?


The fan motor will operate properly either way, but reversing hot and neutral
creates the possibility of an electric shock hazard when changing light bulbs,
because the shell of the light socket will be live even with the switch off.


I opened the junction box inside the rangehood. There were lot of
wirenuts there for the 2 motor, 2 speed rangehood with lights. Each of
those two white wires are connected to black, white, yellow, brown wires
all over.


Do you have a multimeter? If so, it should be pretty easy to tell which is the
neutral and which is the hot. The meter will show continuity between the shell
of the light socket(s) and one of the two wires; that's the neutral. Connect
it to the white wire of the supply cable.

To double-check, look for continuity between the center contact of the light
socket(s) and the *other* wi there should be continuity with the light
switch on, and not with it off. That's the hot. Wrap black or red tape around
it to identify it, and connect it to the black wire of the supply cable.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?


Thanks to all who replied.

I mean the green wire for ground when I typed neutral. It is already
connected to the box.

I do have a multi-meter. But I never really used it other than to check
if a circuit is live or not. I'll learn to test the continuity with that
- only problem is I don't have manual for the meter anymore.

From your reply, I guess the otherway to check is I can connect in one
way. Turn on the circuit breaker. Turn on light. Then use the meter to
check whether the bulb shell is live or not. If the shell is live, then
switch the incoming hot and neutral.

The rangehood manual does have 10 line installation instructions. But no
wire connections. There is wiring diagram. But the color in the diagram
(brown (hot), blue(neutral) is different from the white colors on the
diagram.

I believe it is CSA certified.

unknown user wrote:
....

I do have a multi-meter. But I never really used it other than to check
if a circuit is live or not. I'll learn to test the continuity with that
- only problem is I don't have manual for the meter anymore.

You don't need no steenken' maneuel...

Just put the dial on "CONT" and press the little button w/ the picture
of a speaker or similar if it it has one so the beeper works. Put the
leads in the voltage, not current measuring positions. Touch the two
leads together and you should/will get a beep. Keep dinking around
until you get the settings so you do.

Then take one lead and grab one wire lead and probe the light socket
(not the base, the socket) w/ the switch in the 'on' position. One or
the other will show continuity--that one's the neutral. Mark the other
one w/ a piece of black tape and you're done.

Just for verification, probe the base of the socket and the one you've
identified as the feed and turn the switch off/on...it should beep/quit
in the on/off positions...

Duane Bozarth wrote:
unknown user wrote:
...

I do have a multi-meter. But I never really used it other than to check
if a circuit is live or not. I'll learn to test the continuity with that
- only problem is I don't have manual for the meter anymore.


You don't need no steenken' maneuel...

Just put the dial on "CONT" and press the little button w/ the picture
of a speaker or similar if it it has one so the beeper works. Put the
leads in the voltage, not current measuring positions. Touch the two
leads together and you should/will get a beep. Keep dinking around
until you get the settings so you do.

Then take one lead and grab one wire lead and probe the light socket
(not the base, the socket) w/ the switch in the 'on' position. One or
the other will show continuity--that one's the neutral. Mark the other
one w/ a piece of black tape and you're done.

Just for verification, probe the base of the socket and the one you've
identified as the feed and turn the switch off/on...it should beep/quit
in the on/off positions...

Thanks. I'll try that. My multimeter is a digital one, and can't make a
sound. It has 3 areas on the dial: voltage, current and resistance.
I guesss it must display some numbers on the display to indicate the
continuity.

This is made in Canada (120V/60Hz) with Japanese motors inside. Quite
powful rangehood (680 CFM).

unknown user wrote:
....
Thanks. I'll try that. My multimeter is a digital one, and can't make a
sound. It has 3 areas on the dial: voltage, current and resistance.
I guesss it must display some numbers on the display to indicate the
continuity.

Then set it to resistance and touch the leads together it will read 0 or
very small values...leave the leads non-touching and you'll see a
flashing indication or a range error or a very large value...that's
indicative of the open circuit.

Just play with it a little bit and you'll quickly catch on as to whether
you have a short circuit or an open one--and that's what you're looking
for. When you get the short circuit you've identified the conductor
leading to the base or socket...

In article , unknown user wrote:

Thanks. I'll try that. My multimeter is a digital one, and can't make a
sound. It has 3 areas on the dial: voltage, current and resistance.
I guesss it must display some numbers on the display to indicate the
continuity.

If it is a digital one, I bet it *can* make a beep. :-) Google-search on the
make and model# will probably turn up a downloadable copy of the manual.

Anyway, you want the resistance scale. Continuity is indicated by a resistance
of zero or nearly so; lack of continuity, by a resistance of infinity.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

unknown user wrote:
...
Thanks. I'll try that. My multimeter is a digital one, and can't make a
sound. It has 3 areas on the dial: voltage, current and resistance.
I guesss it must display some numbers on the display to indicate the
continuity.

I answered the mechanics but on reflection your above wording made
another response seem justified...

"Continuity" is determination of a path of possible flow through a
completed circuit. So, the measurement is one of measuring a
low-resistance path. When the switch is open, it creates a break in the
path so the resistance is essentially infinite. When closed, there's
essentially nothing but a short piece of wire between the base and the
other end so it's going to be a very low value--a few tenths of an ohm
will probably show up.

The continuity scale is provided for simply the purpose of finding
open/closed ciruits as a convenience since for the purpose the actual
resistance is not really of any interest--you're just interested in
whether the circuit is open or closed. Thus the sound indicator is
handy so you don't even have to see the scale.

HTH...

Duane Bozarth wrote:
unknown user wrote:
...

Thanks. I'll try that. My multimeter is a digital one, and can't make a
sound. It has 3 areas on the dial: voltage, current and resistance.
I guesss it must display some numbers on the display to indicate the
continuity.


I answered the mechanics but on reflection your above wording made
another response seem justified...

"Continuity" is determination of a path of possible flow through a
completed circuit. So, the measurement is one of measuring a
low-resistance path. When the switch is open, it creates a break in the
path so the resistance is essentially infinite. When closed, there's
essentially nothing but a short piece of wire between the base and the
other end so it's going to be a very low value--a few tenths of an ohm
will probably show up.

The continuity scale is provided for simply the purpose of finding
open/closed ciruits as a convenience since for the purpose the actual
resistance is not really of any interest--you're just interested in
whether the circuit is open or closed. Thus the sound indicator is
handy so you don't even have to see the scale.

HTH...

Thanks to Doug and Duane.

This is great. There are always something to learn each day.

I'll test the old tool (10 years) with the new trick tonight.

"unknown user" wrote in message
...
Duane Bozarth wrote:
unknown user wrote:
...

I do have a multi-meter. But I never really used it other than to check
if a circuit is live or not. I'll learn to test the continuity with that
- only problem is I don't have manual for the meter anymore.


You don't need no steenken' maneuel...

Just put the dial on "CONT" and press the little button w/ the picture
of a speaker or similar if it it has one so the beeper works. Put the
leads in the voltage, not current measuring positions. Touch the two
leads together and you should/will get a beep. Keep dinking around
until you get the settings so you do.

Then take one lead and grab one wire lead and probe the light socket
(not the base, the socket) w/ the switch in the 'on' position. One or
the other will show continuity--that one's the neutral. Mark the other
one w/ a piece of black tape and you're done.

Just for verification, probe the base of the socket and the one you've
identified as the feed and turn the switch off/on...it should beep/quit
in the on/off positions...

Thanks. I'll try that. My multimeter is a digital one, and can't make a
sound. It has 3 areas on the dial: voltage, current and resistance.
I guesss it must display some numbers on the display to indicate the
continuity.

This is made in Canada (120V/60Hz) with Japanese motors inside. Quite
powful rangehood (680 CFM).

680 CFM?!!!! Sounds like a commercial unit to me. No wonder there aren't
any EZ instructions accompanying this. You had better open a window each
time you use it (Assuming it is vented outside). You may wind up pulling
air down through your chimney. Unless of course you are using this in a
commercial application and have already made provisions for make up air.

Set the multimeter on resistance to check continuity.

John Grabowski wrote:
"unknown user" wrote in message
...

Duane Bozarth wrote:

unknown user wrote:
...


I do have a multi-meter. But I never really used it other than to check
if a circuit is live or not. I'll learn to test the continuity with that
- only problem is I don't have manual for the meter anymore.


You don't need no steenken' maneuel...

Just put the dial on "CONT" and press the little button w/ the picture
of a speaker or similar if it it has one so the beeper works. Put the
leads in the voltage, not current measuring positions. Touch the two
leads together and you should/will get a beep. Keep dinking around
until you get the settings so you do.

Then take one lead and grab one wire lead and probe the light socket
(not the base, the socket) w/ the switch in the 'on' position. One or
the other will show continuity--that one's the neutral. Mark the other
one w/ a piece of black tape and you're done.

Just for verification, probe the base of the socket and the one you've
identified as the feed and turn the switch off/on...it should beep/quit
in the on/off positions...

Thanks. I'll try that. My multimeter is a digital one, and can't make a
sound. It has 3 areas on the dial: voltage, current and resistance.
I guesss it must display some numbers on the display to indicate the
continuity.

This is made in Canada (120V/60Hz) with Japanese motors inside. Quite
powful rangehood (680 CFM).


680 CFM?!!!! Sounds like a commercial unit to me. No wonder there aren't
any EZ instructions accompanying this. You had better open a window each
time you use it (Assuming it is vented outside). You may wind up pulling
air down through your chimney. Unless of course you are using this in a
commercial application and have already made provisions for make up air.

Set the multimeter on resistance to check continuity.


No. This is residential unit.

I'll install the unit tonight, and report back if there are any problems.

Thanks to all who responded.

i am guess you should take it back where you bought it and have them show
you or return your money.

randy

"unknown user" wrote in message
news
I just bought a Canadian Rangehood (Cypress). The manual that comes
with the it doesn't tell anything on how to connect the wires.

Out of 3 wires for connection, 1 green is for neutral. Then there are
two white wires. One white wire has some letter printed on the insulation
(such as 105C 18AWG etc). The other white wire has nothing
printed on it.

There is no WEB site or technical support number supplied on the booklet.
I am guess the wire with prints is the hot one, and the other
neutral. What the consequence will be if I connect the wire in that
way when it is the other way around?

I opened the junction box inside the rangehood. There were lot of wirenuts
there for the 2 motor, 2 speed rangehood with lights. Each of those two
white wires are connected to black, white, yellow, brown wires
all over.

The green is GROUND not neutral. The white wire with the printing on it
should be your HOT wire to connect to black.
The OTHER white wire should be your neutral...if you look carefully, you
should be able to see small ridges running lengthwise on the white
insulation of that one..which again indicates Neutral or 'white' connection.

This is the conclusion after examining several pieces of various 2 conductor
white cord in my 'spare' wire box. All the ones with writing (either
printed in black or moulded right into the insulation) are 'smooth' HOT.
All the others have the ridged indication on them for neutral.
I'd guess it is this way because its easier to print/read on a smooth wire
instead of one with ridges on it

So I'd start there..and still check my socket with the multimeter to confirm

R

Out of 3 wires for connection, 1 green is for neutral. Then there are
two white wires. One white wire has some letter printed on the insulation
(such as 105C 18AWG etc). The other white wire has nothing
printed on it.

Rudy wrote:
The green is GROUND not neutral. The white wire with the printing on it
should be your HOT wire to connect to black.
The OTHER white wire should be your neutral...if you look carefully, you
should be able to see small ridges running lengthwise on the white
insulation of that one..which again indicates Neutral or 'white' connection.

This is the conclusion after examining several pieces of various 2 conductor
white cord in my 'spare' wire box. All the ones with writing (either
printed in black or moulded right into the insulation) are 'smooth' HOT.
All the others have the ridged indication on them for neutral.
I'd guess it is this way because its easier to print/read on a smooth wire
instead of one with ridges on it

So I'd start there..and still check my socket with the multimeter to confirm

R


Out of 3 wires for connection, 1 green is for neutral. Then there are
two white wires. One white wire has some letter printed on the insulation
(such as 105C 18AWG etc). The other white wire has nothing
printed on it.



Got the rangehood installed tonight. The white wire with prints is
indeed the hot one and the other white wire is neutral, after using
multimeter for continuity check. I also checked socket shell as well
inside contact to make sure the shell is not hot. Everything is fine
now, and the rangehood works great.

Now think back, I remember I had a similar problem with the garbage
disposal some time ago. The In-sink-erator disposal did not come with
an extention wire with plug.so I had to buy one from Home Depot. Both
the hot and neutral wires are black. The hot wire has printed words on
it and the neutral one does not. The wire/plug came with an detailed
instruction sheet, and I had no problem with it.

Thanks all for the help.