"unknown user" wrote in message
...
Duane Bozarth wrote:
unknown user wrote:
...

I do have a multi-meter. But I never really used it other than to check
if a circuit is live or not. I'll learn to test the continuity with that
- only problem is I don't have manual for the meter anymore.


You don't need no steenken' maneuel...

Just put the dial on "CONT" and press the little button w/ the picture
of a speaker or similar if it it has one so the beeper works. Put the
leads in the voltage, not current measuring positions. Touch the two
leads together and you should/will get a beep. Keep dinking around
until you get the settings so you do.

Then take one lead and grab one wire lead and probe the light socket
(not the base, the socket) w/ the switch in the 'on' position. One or
the other will show continuity--that one's the neutral. Mark the other
one w/ a piece of black tape and you're done.

Just for verification, probe the base of the socket and the one you've
identified as the feed and turn the switch off/on...it should beep/quit
in the on/off positions...

Thanks. I'll try that. My multimeter is a digital one, and can't make a
sound. It has 3 areas on the dial: voltage, current and resistance.
I guesss it must display some numbers on the display to indicate the
continuity.

This is made in Canada (120V/60Hz) with Japanese motors inside. Quite
powful rangehood (680 CFM).

680 CFM?!!!! Sounds like a commercial unit to me. No wonder there aren't
any EZ instructions accompanying this. You had better open a window each
time you use it (Assuming it is vented outside). You may wind up pulling
air down through your chimney. Unless of course you are using this in a
commercial application and have already made provisions for make up air.

Set the multimeter on resistance to check continuity.