John Grabowski wrote:
"unknown user" wrote in message
...

Duane Bozarth wrote:

unknown user wrote:
...


I do have a multi-meter. But I never really used it other than to check
if a circuit is live or not. I'll learn to test the continuity with that
- only problem is I don't have manual for the meter anymore.


You don't need no steenken' maneuel...

Just put the dial on "CONT" and press the little button w/ the picture
of a speaker or similar if it it has one so the beeper works. Put the
leads in the voltage, not current measuring positions. Touch the two
leads together and you should/will get a beep. Keep dinking around
until you get the settings so you do.

Then take one lead and grab one wire lead and probe the light socket
(not the base, the socket) w/ the switch in the 'on' position. One or
the other will show continuity--that one's the neutral. Mark the other
one w/ a piece of black tape and you're done.

Just for verification, probe the base of the socket and the one you've
identified as the feed and turn the switch off/on...it should beep/quit
in the on/off positions...

Thanks. I'll try that. My multimeter is a digital one, and can't make a
sound. It has 3 areas on the dial: voltage, current and resistance.
I guesss it must display some numbers on the display to indicate the
continuity.

This is made in Canada (120V/60Hz) with Japanese motors inside. Quite
powful rangehood (680 CFM).


680 CFM?!!!! Sounds like a commercial unit to me. No wonder there aren't
any EZ instructions accompanying this. You had better open a window each
time you use it (Assuming it is vented outside). You may wind up pulling
air down through your chimney. Unless of course you are using this in a
commercial application and have already made provisions for make up air.

Set the multimeter on resistance to check continuity.


No. This is residential unit.

I'll install the unit tonight, and report back if there are any problems.

Thanks to all who responded.