Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default Blocked ink-jet nozzles

2 Canons, MP272 and MP495
Both unused for years, both the same total lack of yellow printing. ,
either m/c even swapping carts. Folded tissue dampened with cleaning
fluid, pressed against the nozzle plate, suggestive of not being a
lock-in "fault".
2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled carts.
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Default Blocked ink-jet nozzles

On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled carts.


Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

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Default Blocked ink-jet nozzles

On Mon, 23 Oct 2017 07:22:11 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled carts.


Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


The only ultrasonic cleaner I have had experience with is used by my
dentist!

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http://www.npsnn.com

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Default Blocked ink-jet nozzles

On 2017/10/23 7:52 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 23/10/2017 15:22, wrote:
On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled
carts.


Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Mine gets very little use, but the top, conveniently glass for would-be
viewing, is all crazed/micro-fractured?
Is that common with such cleaners, partially self destructing?
If I want to see whats going on, I have to find a piece of glass or
perspex to cover over the dancing fluid fountains.

I should have said , with the damp tissue test, showing yellow staining
on the tissue. Also locked-in , meaning makers trying to defeat cart
refilling, to force purchase from them.
Another tip, I don't see with ink refill kits, they always seem to say
drill in . That must leave plastic swarf inside. I use a conical
soldering iron tip at the breather hole , to melt in. Then when closing
, a short length of spaghetti tube inserted and then hot melt glue
around it and marginally into the plastic of the cart, so easily pulled
away the next time.


Better laser printer refill companies often sold a soldering iron with a
round tip to melt a proper hole. And included a plastic plug so you
could more easily refill in the future.

John :-#)#

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www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."


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Default Blocked ink-jet nozzles

On Mon, 23 Oct 2017 15:52:37 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

On 23/10/2017 15:22, wrote:
On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled carts.


Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Mine gets very little use, but the top, conveniently glass for would-be
viewing, is all crazed/micro-fractured?
Is that common with such cleaners, partially self destructing?
If I want to see whats going on, I have to find a piece of glass or
perspex to cover over the dancing fluid fountains.

I should have said , with the damp tissue test, showing yellow staining
on the tissue. Also locked-in , meaning makers trying to defeat cart
refilling, to force purchase from them.
Another tip, I don't see with ink refill kits, they always seem to say
drill in . That must leave plastic swarf inside. I use a conical
soldering iron tip at the breather hole , to melt in. Then when closing
, a short length of spaghetti tube inserted and then hot melt glue
around it and marginally into the plastic of the cart, so easily pulled
away the next time.

My current work printer, an HP something or other, does not have the
inkjets in the cartridges. I only use black ink and so only refill the
one cart. Instead of drilling a hole I add the ink through the
absorbent pad on the bottom of the cart that delivers ink to the
printer head. I add ink one drop at a time and it is fascinating to
watch it soak in. The ink spreads across the complete pad surface
almostly instantly and then soaks in almost as fast. As the cart gets
fuller the ink is absorbed more slowly so it is easy to tell when the
cart is almost full. Much easier than my home printer where I have to
add ink through a drilled hole using a syringe.
Eric
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My current work printer, an HP something or other, does not have the
inkjets in the cartridges. I only use black ink and so only refill the
one cart. Instead of drilling a hole I add the ink through the
absorbent pad on the bottom of the cart that delivers ink to the
printer head. I add ink one drop at a time and it is fascinating to
watch it soak in. The ink spreads across the complete pad surface
almostly instantly and then soaks in almost as fast. As the cart gets
fuller the ink is absorbed more slowly so it is easy to tell when the
cart is almost full. Much easier than my home printer where I have to
add ink through a drilled hole using a syringe.
Eric


For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a
dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the
syringe.

There seems to be a hydrophobic surface to the nozzle plate of these
carts, I suppose some sort of nano material coating

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For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a
dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the
syringe.


if you do only occasional printing and in BW only, really get yourself an inexpensive LASER printer.

Much less hassle

m



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Default Blocked ink-jet nozzles

On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:

For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a
dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the
syringe.


if you do only occasional printing and in BW only, really get yourself an inexpensive LASER printer.

Much less hassle

m


Totally agree. My last freaking piece of **** printer was an Epson. The damned thing said it was down on one color (allegedly) and not only would it refuse to print in B&W, but refused to even scan documents until I gave it it's cyan fix.

My first printer was a HP Deskjet 500 and that thing would print tons of pages, was silent as the night, and never gave me trouble. I stupidly retired it when color injets became cheaper. That was the beginning of the printer wars with me as the French resistance.

I picked up a cheap HP B&W laser printer two years ago and won't ever look back. I don't need color and I don't need to worry about half full ink cartridges jamming up or refusing to identify themselves as authentic Epson cartridges. The laser printer is the closest thing to my old Deskjet for reliablility, and it's a hell of a lot faster than any comparable injet.

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wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Oct 2017 15:52:37 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

On 23/10/2017 15:22, wrote:
On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled
carts.

Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Mine gets very little use, but the top, conveniently glass for would-be
viewing, is all crazed/micro-fractured?
Is that common with such cleaners, partially self destructing?
If I want to see whats going on, I have to find a piece of glass or
perspex to cover over the dancing fluid fountains.

I should have said , with the damp tissue test, showing yellow staining
on the tissue. Also locked-in , meaning makers trying to defeat cart
refilling, to force purchase from them.
Another tip, I don't see with ink refill kits, they always seem to say
drill in . That must leave plastic swarf inside. I use a conical
soldering iron tip at the breather hole , to melt in. Then when closing
, a short length of spaghetti tube inserted and then hot melt glue
around it and marginally into the plastic of the cart, so easily pulled
away the next time.

My current work printer, an HP something or other, does not have the
inkjets in the cartridges. I only use black ink and so only refill the
one cart. Instead of drilling a hole I add the ink through the
absorbent pad on the bottom of the cart that delivers ink to the
printer head. I add ink one drop at a time and it is fascinating to
watch it soak in. The ink spreads across the complete pad surface
almostly instantly and then soaks in almost as fast. As the cart gets
fuller the ink is absorbed more slowly so it is easy to tell when the
cart is almost full. Much easier than my home printer where I have to
add ink through a drilled hole using a syringe.
Eric


I use the refilling syringe on the felt pad - but it has to be done slowly.

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"John-Del" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:

For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a
dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the
syringe.


if you do only occasional printing and in BW only, really get yourself an
inexpensive LASER printer.

Much less hassle

m


Totally agree. My last freaking piece of **** printer was an Epson. The
damned thing said it was down on one color (allegedly) and not only would
it refuse to print in B&W, but refused to even scan documents until I gave
it it's cyan fix.


My last Epson was DM with a ribbon cartridge.

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Default Blocked ink-jet nozzles

On Tuesday, 24 October 2017 19:51:44 UTC+1, Ian Field wrote:
"John-Del" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:

For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a
dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the
syringe.

if you do only occasional printing and in BW only, really get yourself an
inexpensive LASER printer.

Much less hassle

m


Totally agree. My last freaking piece of **** printer was an Epson. The
damned thing said it was down on one color (allegedly) and not only would
it refuse to print in B&W, but refused to even scan documents until I gave
it it's cyan fix.


My last Epson was DM with a ribbon cartridge.


I fitted mine with a re-inker. But eventually ribbon wear causes pin jam.


NT


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Default Blocked ink-jet nozzles

On Wednesday, 25 October 2017 00:07:04 UTC+1, Colin Horsley wrote:
On 25/10/2017 10:00, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 24 October 2017 19:51:44 UTC+1, Ian Field wrote:
"John-Del" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:



My last Epson was DM with a ribbon cartridge.


I fitted mine with a re-inker. But eventually ribbon wear causes pin jam.


Tell me more about the re-inker.
I am still using an NEC Pinwriter P5200 !!

Colin


Ah, multipart forms presumably. Put a full height pad inside the cart where the ribbon would be pulled past it, either on the ribbon output or input, I forget which. Drilled a hole in the cart top for ink & countersunk it. You can go further by adding a tiny plastic offcut to act as a miniature funnel. Now just put however many drops of ink in the funnel and it reinks the ribbon as you go. There is some tendency to reink a third of the length and not the rest, so little & often rather than one big glug.

ISTR a mix of printer's ink & meths being good, though you can use cheaper mixes. I'm pretty sure I used to use paraffin as the liquid base. You can add ready made ink or a cheap dye.

Violet is cheapest but fades right away in time. Costs vary a lot per colour. They're the same price per gram but violet goes a lot further than black.. For dark colours, mix red, green, etc then add a little black to darken it.
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wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Oct 2017 15:52:37 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

On 23/10/2017 15:22, wrote:
On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled
carts.

Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Mine gets very little use, but the top, conveniently glass for would-be
viewing, is all crazed/micro-fractured?
Is that common with such cleaners, partially self destructing?
If I want to see whats going on, I have to find a piece of glass or
perspex to cover over the dancing fluid fountains.

I should have said , with the damp tissue test, showing yellow staining
on the tissue. Also locked-in , meaning makers trying to defeat cart
refilling, to force purchase from them.
Another tip, I don't see with ink refill kits, they always seem to say
drill in . That must leave plastic swarf inside. I use a conical
soldering iron tip at the breather hole , to melt in. Then when closing
, a short length of spaghetti tube inserted and then hot melt glue
around it and marginally into the plastic of the cart, so easily pulled
away the next time.

My current work printer, an HP something or other, does not have the
inkjets in the cartridges. I only use black ink and so only refill the
one cart. Instead of drilling a hole I add the ink through the
absorbent pad on the bottom of the cart that delivers ink to the
printer head. I add ink one drop at a time and it is fascinating to
watch it soak in. The ink spreads across the complete pad surface
almostly instantly and then soaks in almost as fast. As the cart gets
fuller the ink is absorbed more slowly so it is easy to tell when the
cart is almost full. Much easier than my home printer where I have to
add ink through a drilled hole using a syringe.


A b&w laser no-ink printer does seem like the best bet.
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