Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was
not able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg
The footprint on the bottom side is a 2x6 dil - 12 contact pins. Note
that it is not possible to use a random model switch with the same
footprint as there is a release mechanism which then would not work
anymore. Thats why the blue knobs have the shape they have.

Regards
Jens

"Jens Herrmann"
Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was not
able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg


** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.

So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

IME, usually only of short term benefit - if any at all.

Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all the
switches work again.



.... Phil

On 08/06/2013 11:49 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.
Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all the
switches work again.
I would prefer to replace them as the switch mechanism inside did not
look very well.

Jens

"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all
the
switches work again.

I would prefer to replace them as the switch mechanism inside did not look
very well.

** You have NOTHING to lose by TRYING my suggestion.

Been working near miracles for me, nearly every day, for 40+ years.



.... Phil

On 06/08/2013 09:19, Jens Herrmann wrote:
Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was
not able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg
The footprint on the bottom side is a 2x6 dil - 12 contact pins. Note
that it is not possible to use a random model switch with the same
footprint as there is a release mechanism which then would not work
anymore. Thats why the blue knobs have the shape they have.

Regards
Jens

Even robbing a salvaged one is problematic as the plastic body of those
sort of switches can only take the bare minimum of soldering heat before
they start to deform. Can you wire in switches to somewhere that has
more space and can take more conventional switches , assuming you cannot
find an exact replacement. I've burrowed inside similar switches and I
would say they are next to impossible to rebuild, even if you can safely
get them apart with their sub-mm parts

On 8/6/2013 4:19 AM, Jens Herrmann wrote:
Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was
not able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg
The footprint on the bottom side is a 2x6 dil - 12 contact pins. Note
that it is not possible to use a random model switch with the same
footprint as there is a release mechanism which then would not work
anymore. Thats why the blue knobs have the shape they have.

Regards
Jens
Have you tried contacting Pioneer's parts department in your area?

--Tim

On 06/08/13 18:20, Phil Allison wrote:
"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all
the
switches work again.

I would prefer to replace them as the switch mechanism inside did not look
very well.

** You have NOTHING to lose by TRYING my suggestion.

Been working near miracles for me, nearly every day, for 40+ years.



... Phil


Hey Phil,
How does the WD40 go for pots ?
I have always thought it was short term and destructive.

"Rheilly Phoull"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all
the
switches work again.

I would prefer to replace them as the switch mechanism inside did not
look
very well.

** You have NOTHING to lose by TRYING my suggestion.

Been working near miracles for me, nearly every day, for 40+ years.


How does the WD40 go for pots ?

** If a squirt of WD40 does not restore good operation - nothing else
will.

But be very careful with linear faders as it can dissolve the grease that
gives them a nice feel - if possible, open them up and clean the track and
wipers with a rag and small brush dipped in WD40.

I have always thought it was short term and destructive.

** Nonsense.


.... Phil

On 08/06/2013 03:20 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


WD40 is known to delaminate pc boards.

On 08/06/2013 01:19 AM, Jens Herrmann wrote:
Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was
not able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg
The footprint on the bottom side is a 2x6 dil - 12 contact pins. Note
that it is not possible to use a random model switch with the same
footprint as there is a release mechanism which then would not work
anymore. Thats why the blue knobs have the shape they have.

Regards
Jens

Digikey or Mouser should have those. I have a bunch on an intercom
control panel..They aren't that rare. Half the battle is finding the
correct nomenclature.

On 08/06/2013 06:56 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Rheilly Phoull"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all
the
switches work again.

I would prefer to replace them as the switch mechanism inside did not
look
very well.

** You have NOTHING to lose by TRYING my suggestion.

Been working near miracles for me, nearly every day, for 40+ years.


How does the WD40 go for pots ?

** If a squirt of WD40 does not restore good operation - nothing else
will.

But be very careful with linear faders as it can dissolve the grease that
gives them a nice feel - if possible, open them up and clean the track and
wipers with a rag and small brush dipped in WD40.

I have always thought it was short term and destructive.

** Nonsense.


... Phil


DeOxit Red is what I use for rotary pots. Deoxit Gold for switches and
jacks. They make a DeOxit for linear pots, but it often makes things
worse. Use a swab with Lubriplate, after careful diassembly and cleaning.

On 06/08/2013 16:09, dave wrote:
On 08/06/2013 06:56 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Rheilly Phoull"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes
all
the
switches work again.

I would prefer to replace them as the switch mechanism inside did not
look
very well.

** You have NOTHING to lose by TRYING my suggestion.

Been working near miracles for me, nearly every day, for 40+ years.


How does the WD40 go for pots ?

** If a squirt of WD40 does not restore good operation - nothing else
will.

But be very careful with linear faders as it can dissolve the grease that
gives them a nice feel - if possible, open them up and clean the
track and
wipers with a rag and small brush dipped in WD40.

I have always thought it was short term and destructive.

** Nonsense.


... Phil


DeOxit Red is what I use for rotary pots. Deoxit Gold for switches and
jacks. They make a DeOxit for linear pots, but it often makes things
worse. Use a swab with Lubriplate, after careful diassembly and cleaning.


going by what looks like broken pcb in that photo, then likely
mechanical damage to the switch, chemicals will not remedy that

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On Tue, 6 Aug 2013 19:49:09 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:

Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all the
switches work again.

That works, if you don't mind doing it again in about a month. The
residual oils left behind by WD-40 seems to turn to sticky gum. Try
it yourself. Spray some WD-40 on some glass and let it evaporate.
Check the oil after a few weeks of exposure to air. I used some
microscope slides with various contact cleaners. Only WD-40 became
sticky. Note that the "electrical contact cleaner" term was removed
from the WD-40 can at some times in the 1970's. The company also
introduced a product designed specifically for contact cleaning, which
contains NO oils:
http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/contact-cleaner/
If you want to break loose frozen controls, I have no problem using
WD-40. However, for contact cleaner, I use something else.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Jeff Liebermann= IDIOT "

"Phil Allison":

Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all the
switches work again.

That works, if you don't mind doing it again in about a month.

** Wrong.

The residual oils left behind by WD-40 seems to turn to sticky gum.

** Yawnnnn...


..... Phil

"dave"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


WD40 is known to delaminate pc boards.

** ROTFL !!

It kills cockroaches too.


..... Phil

"dave"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Rheilly Phoull"

How does the WD40 go for pots ?

** If a squirt of WD40 does not restore good operation - nothing else
will.

But be very careful with linear faders as it can dissolve the grease that
gives them a nice feel - if possible, open them up and clean the track
and
wipers with a rag and small brush dipped in WD40.

I have always thought it was short term and destructive.

** Nonsense.


DeOxit Red is what I use for rotary pots.

** I have a small ( 75ml) can of Caig "DeOxit D100" in the workshop -
bought it a few years ago for a price about 10 times that of WD40.

Dammed if I can find a single job it is any good for.

It has almost no penetrating ability and is a poor grease solvent.

WOFTAM.



.... Phil

"Phil Allison" wrote in
:
** I have a small ( 75ml) can of Caig "DeOxit D100" in the
workshop - bought it a few years ago for a price about 10
times that of WD40.

Dammed if I can find a single job it is any good for.

It has almost no penetrating ability and is a poor grease
solvent.

WOFTAM.



... Phil



What about CRC 5-56, how dya reckon it compares with WD-40?

"Geoff"
"Phil Allison"

** I have a small ( 75ml) can of Caig "DeOxit D100" in the
workshop - bought it a few years ago for a price about 10
times that of WD40.

Dammed if I can find a single job it is any good for.

It has almost no penetrating ability and is a poor grease
solvent.

WOFTAM.


What about CRC 5-56,


** You tell me - sunshine

Almost 40 years ago, I used CRC 2-26 for the same jobs as WD40.



..... Phil

On 08/06/2013 11:01 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
"dave"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Rheilly Phoull"

How does the WD40 go for pots ?

** If a squirt of WD40 does not restore good operation - nothing else
will.

But be very careful with linear faders as it can dissolve the grease that
gives them a nice feel - if possible, open them up and clean the track
and
wipers with a rag and small brush dipped in WD40.

I have always thought it was short term and destructive.

** Nonsense.


DeOxit Red is what I use for rotary pots.

** I have a small ( 75ml) can of Caig "DeOxit D100" in the workshop -
bought it a few years ago for a price about 10 times that of WD40.

Dammed if I can find a single job it is any good for.

It has almost no penetrating ability and is a poor grease solvent.

D100 has no solvents. That is why you can't use it on your greasy
electronics.

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1...2&category=188

"dave the drongo "

D100 has no solvents.


** So WTF is it any good for ?


That is why you can't use it on your greasy electronics.


** I never use WD40 on electronics.

Just mechanicals like pots, switches and connectors.

Intermittents in ICs and other semis seem to be totally impervious to the
stuff..........




.... Phil

On 08/07/2013 02:01 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"dave"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Rheilly Phoull"

How does the WD40 go for pots ?

** If a squirt of WD40 does not restore good operation - nothing else
will.

But be very careful with linear faders as it can dissolve the grease that
gives them a nice feel - if possible, open them up and clean the track
and
wipers with a rag and small brush dipped in WD40.

I have always thought it was short term and destructive.

** Nonsense.


DeOxit Red is what I use for rotary pots.

** I have a small ( 75ml) can of Caig "DeOxit D100" in the workshop -
bought it a few years ago for a price about 10 times that of WD40.

Dammed if I can find a single job it is any good for.

It has almost no penetrating ability and is a poor grease solvent.

WOFTAM.


It's sure expensive, but it does a pretty good job on old wafer switches
and pots. I'm sure it's just a mixture of solvents with some organic
acid, but it doesn't smell like any of the common ones.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

In article ,
Phil Hobbs wrote:

It's sure expensive, but it does a pretty good job on old wafer switches
and pots. I'm sure it's just a mixture of solvents with some organic
acid, but it doesn't smell like any of the common ones.

The original Cramolin Red formula, and older DeOxIt products were
reportedly made with oleic acid (which has a long history of being
used to remove oxidation from brass, copper, etc.). Reportedly,
DeOxIt now uses a different organic acid (perhaps less prone to result
in corrosion of the metal if you fail to flush it all off or
neutralize it).

The DeOxIt 100 formula seems to be a "pure" (or at least high-
concentration) version of the acid, with some red dye in it and with
little or no solvent added. Probably not the best choice for contacts
that are contaminated with grease or oil, unless you flush 'em first
with a solvent.

The "clean and deoxidize" aerosol squirter is somewhere around 5%,
with the rest being solvent and propellant. It does seem to work,
given some time to act... I squirt it in, work the switches a few
times, let it sit for a while, work the switches again and then flush
it out with a "zero residue" contact cleaner.

On Wed, 07 Aug 2013 13:26:16 -0400, Phil Hobbs
wrote:

It's sure expensive, but it does a pretty good job on old wafer switches
and pots. I'm sure it's just a mixture of solvents with some organic
acid, but it doesn't smell like any of the common ones.

The original formulation of Caig Deoxit was called Cramolin which had
some oleic acid in it. Oleic acid is good for removing oxidation from
the contact surfaces. Commonly available on eBay. Mixed with almost
any volatile organic solvent, such as Coleman camp fuel (naptha), it
makes a good contact cleaner. Red dye is optional.

The problem is that oleic acid slowly attacks copper if left in place
for too long. So, after I apply the contact cleaner and wipe the
contacts, I then wash off the acid with some solvent, usually 90%
rubbing alcohol.

http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/cleaner.htm
Note the comments on the use of WD-40 as a contact cleaner.
--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 08/07/2013 02:44 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 07 Aug 2013 13:26:16 -0400, Phil Hobbs
wrote:

It's sure expensive, but it does a pretty good job on old wafer switches
and pots. I'm sure it's just a mixture of solvents with some organic
acid, but it doesn't smell like any of the common ones.

The original formulation of Caig Deoxit was called Cramolin which had
some oleic acid in it. Oleic acid is good for removing oxidation from
the contact surfaces. Commonly available on eBay. Mixed with almost
any volatile organic solvent, such as Coleman camp fuel (naptha), it
makes a good contact cleaner. Red dye is optional.

The problem is that oleic acid slowly attacks copper if left in place
for too long. So, after I apply the contact cleaner and wipe the
contacts, I then wash off the acid with some solvent, usually 90%
rubbing alcohol.

http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/cleaner.htm
Note the comments on the use of WD-40 as a contact cleaner.


I used Tarn-X on brass fingerstock with no ill effects noted. Non
sudsing ammonia works as well and costs a hundred times less, fyi.

I have used Cramolin Red liquid, from the same shelf as my pure Freon
liquid. I now have the DeOxIt Red, and Gold. I use Red on pots, Gold on
contacts and jacks. Only if I can't clean them by vigorously cycling them.

On 6/08/2013 6:19 PM, Jens Herrmann wrote:
Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was
not able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg
The footprint on the bottom side is a 2x6 dil - 12 contact pins. Note
that it is not possible to use a random model switch with the same
footprint as there is a release mechanism which then would not work
anymore. Thats why the blue knobs have the shape they have.

Regards
Jens

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-Oxit„¢.

--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

"Trevor Wilson"

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.


** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.




..... Phil

"Phil Allison" wrote in message ...

** Stupid, wrong advice.
** De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.

You've obviously never used the stuff.

I've been using it since the late '70s. The Red does a great job lifting the
film from tin- and nickel-plated surfaces. The Gold does as nearly a good job
on gold-plated surfaces.

The 100% solution is not a lubricant. And I make no claims for its improving
sound quality.

On 9/08/2013 8:19 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.


** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.




.... Phil




**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do.
Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on,
leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I
treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.

--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

"William Sommer****** Nut Case"
"Phil Allison"
** Stupid, wrong advice.

** De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.

You've obviously never used the stuff.


** Only nut cases use it.


I've been using it since the late '70s.

** You've been a nut case much longer.


The Red does a great job lifting the film from tin- and nickel-plated
surfaces. The Gold does as nearly a good job on gold-plated surfaces.

** Shame how it is ****ing useless at fixing noisy pots and switches.

The 100% solution is not a lubricant. And I make no claims for its
improving sound quality.


** The stuff does NOT do what WD40, CRC 2-26 and a host other similar
fluids do in seconds.

It is not a grease solvent, not a lubricant and does not penetrate small
gaps and flow.



.... Phil

"Trevor Wilson"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.

** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.


**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do.
Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on,
leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I
treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.


** Dismantling switches in order to merely clean the internal contacts is
plain nuts.

The stuff does NOT do what WD40, CRC 2-26 and a host other similar
fluids do in seconds - without any disassembly, waiting or need to be wiped
off.

It is not a grease solvent, not a lubricant and does not penetrate.

Snake oil mixed with turps would do better.



.... Phil

Those who have used Cramolin, et al, for its intended purpose can safely
ignore Phil's rants.

On 08/08/2013 04:34 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 9/08/2013 8:19 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.


** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.




.... Phil




**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do.
Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on,
leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I
treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.


I spray it onto cotton swabs and stick that into noisy jacks. I hesitate
to use it on pots, but will try if I can't get them to quiet down with
my loop of string wrapped around the shaft, so I can vigorously work it,
so to speak.

On 9/08/2013 4:04 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.

** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.


**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do.
Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on,
leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I
treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.


** Dismantling switches in order to merely clean the internal contacts is
plain nuts.

**I agree. However, in certain circumstances, there is simply no other way.


The stuff does NOT do what WD40, CRC 2-26 and a host other similar
fluids do in seconds - without any disassembly, waiting or need to be wiped
off.

**Correct. It does a much better job. MUCH better.


It is not a grease solvent, not a lubricant and does not penetrate.

Snake oil mixed with turps would do better.



.... Phil

**Never tried snake oil. De_oxit/Cramolin works extremely well however.


--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

"Trevor Wilson"
Phil Allison wrote:

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.

** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.


**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do.
Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on,
leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I
treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.


** Dismantling switches in order to merely clean the internal contacts is
plain nuts.

**I agree. However, in certain circumstances, there is simply no other
way.

** But in 99.9% of case it is not needed at all.


The stuff does NOT do what WD40, CRC 2-26 and a host other similar
fluids do in seconds - without any disassembly, waiting or need to be
wiped
off.

**Correct. It does a much better job. MUCH better.

** No it doesn't.


It is not a grease solvent, not a lubricant and does not penetrate.

Snake oil mixed with turps would do better.


**Never tried snake oil. De_oxit/Cramolin works extremely well however.

** No it doesn't.

It merely has snob appeal.

Only fools bother with that.



.... Phil

On 10/08/2013 1:59 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"
Phil Allison wrote:

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.

** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.


**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do.
Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on,
leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I
treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.


** Dismantling switches in order to merely clean the internal contacts is
plain nuts.

**I agree. However, in certain circumstances, there is simply no other
way.

** But in 99.9% of case it is not needed at all.

**Perhaps in your experience that may be true. In mine, not so. That
said, my last bottle of Cramolin lasted 20 odd years. Less than 10ml. It
went a long way and reconditioned a lot of contacts. For the rest, I
used regular spray stuff.



The stuff does NOT do what WD40, CRC 2-26 and a host other similar
fluids do in seconds - without any disassembly, waiting or need to be
wiped
off.

**Correct. It does a much better job. MUCH better.

** No it doesn't.

**Again, IME, it does. I've tried pretty much everything on the market.
Including WD40. Have you tried De-Oxit or Cramolin?



It is not a grease solvent, not a lubricant and does not penetrate.

Snake oil mixed with turps would do better.


**Never tried snake oil. De_oxit/Cramolin works extremely well however.

** No it doesn't.

**Again, IME, it does. How did you use it?



It merely has snob appeal.

Only fools bother with that.

**Nope. I use what works.


--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

"Phil Allison" wrote in message ...

[DeOxit] merely has snob appeal.
Only fools bother with that.

I must be a fool to enjoy removing the oxide layer from a conductive surface.

RCA jacks can get pretty grotty. Does DeOxit/Cramolin improve the sound? I
don't know, and I don't care. I do think it's common sense to keep contact
surfaces clean. These products can be the difference between a jack/connector
interface working and not working.

On 08/10/2013 07:07 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Phil Allison" wrote in message ...

[DeOxit] merely has snob appeal.
Only fools bother with that.

I must be a fool to enjoy removing the oxide layer from a conductive
surface.

RCA jacks can get pretty grotty. Does DeOxit/Cramolin improve the sound?
I don't know, and I don't care. I do think it's common sense to keep
contact surfaces clean. These products can be the difference between a
jack/connector interface working and not working.

A jack in frequent use self burnishes.

"dave" wrote in message
m...

A jack in frequent use self burnishes.

Good point. But not all plugs are continually removed and inserted. The
control jacks & plugs on my amplifiers need cleaning every six months or so.

"William Sommer****** "
"Phil Allison"
[DeOxit] merely has snob appeal.
Only fools bother with that.

I must be a fool to enjoy removing the oxide layer from a conductive
surface.


** Silver and gold plated connectors do NOT form oxides and even common
nickel plated ones barely form an oxide layer under normal room conditions.


RCA jacks can get pretty grotty. Does DeOxit/Cramolin improve the sound? I
don't know, and I don't care. I do think it's common sense to keep contact
surfaces clean. These products can be the difference between a
jack/connector interface working and not working.

** Most any hydrocarbon solvent followed by a bit of polishing with an oily
rag would do as well.

A little WD40 (or CRC 2-26 or Super Servisol etc) on a cloth does it in a
blink of the eye.

But one may not feel as *HOLY* afterwards as with the super expensive pink
goop.

Fools and their money ........


.... Phil