Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was
not able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg
The footprint on the bottom side is a 2x6 dil - 12 contact pins. Note
that it is not possible to use a random model switch with the same
footprint as there is a release mechanism which then would not work
anymore. Thats why the blue knobs have the shape they have.

Regards
Jens

"Jens Herrmann"
Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was not
able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg


** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.

So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

IME, usually only of short term benefit - if any at all.

Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all the
switches work again.



.... Phil

On 08/06/2013 11:49 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.
Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all the
switches work again.
I would prefer to replace them as the switch mechanism inside did not
look very well.

Jens

"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all
the
switches work again.

I would prefer to replace them as the switch mechanism inside did not look
very well.

** You have NOTHING to lose by TRYING my suggestion.

Been working near miracles for me, nearly every day, for 40+ years.



.... Phil

On 06/08/13 18:20, Phil Allison wrote:
"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all
the
switches work again.

I would prefer to replace them as the switch mechanism inside did not look
very well.

** You have NOTHING to lose by TRYING my suggestion.

Been working near miracles for me, nearly every day, for 40+ years.



... Phil


Hey Phil,
How does the WD40 go for pots ?
I have always thought it was short term and destructive.

"Rheilly Phoull"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all
the
switches work again.

I would prefer to replace them as the switch mechanism inside did not
look
very well.

** You have NOTHING to lose by TRYING my suggestion.

Been working near miracles for me, nearly every day, for 40+ years.


How does the WD40 go for pots ?

** If a squirt of WD40 does not restore good operation - nothing else
will.

But be very careful with linear faders as it can dissolve the grease that
gives them a nice feel - if possible, open them up and clean the track and
wipers with a rag and small brush dipped in WD40.

I have always thought it was short term and destructive.

** Nonsense.


.... Phil

On 08/06/2013 03:20 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


WD40 is known to delaminate pc boards.

"dave"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Jens Herrmann"
Phil Allison wrote:

** There is no sign of residue on the switches in the pic.
So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

** Silly, risky thing to do.

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.


WD40 is known to delaminate pc boards.

** ROTFL !!

It kills cockroaches too.


..... Phil

On Tue, 6 Aug 2013 19:49:09 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:

Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all the
switches work again.

That works, if you don't mind doing it again in about a month. The
residual oils left behind by WD-40 seems to turn to sticky gum. Try
it yourself. Spray some WD-40 on some glass and let it evaporate.
Check the oil after a few weeks of exposure to air. I used some
microscope slides with various contact cleaners. Only WD-40 became
sticky. Note that the "electrical contact cleaner" term was removed
from the WD-40 can at some times in the 1970's. The company also
introduced a product designed specifically for contact cleaning, which
contains NO oils:
http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/contact-cleaner/
If you want to break loose frozen controls, I have no problem using
WD-40. However, for contact cleaner, I use something else.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Jeff Liebermann= IDIOT "

"Phil Allison":

Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all the
switches work again.

That works, if you don't mind doing it again in about a month.

** Wrong.

The residual oils left behind by WD-40 seems to turn to sticky gum.

** Yawnnnn...


..... Phil

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 Aug 2013 19:49:09 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:

Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all the
switches work again.

That works, if you don't mind doing it again in about a month. The
residual oils left behind by WD-40 seems to turn to sticky gum. Try
it yourself. Spray some WD-40 on some glass and let it evaporate.
Check the oil after a few weeks of exposure to air. I used some
microscope slides with various contact cleaners. Only WD-40 became
sticky. Note that the "electrical contact cleaner" term was removed
from the WD-40 can at some times in the 1970's. The company also
introduced a product designed specifically for contact cleaning, which
contains NO oils:
http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/contact-cleaner/
If you want to break loose frozen controls, I have no problem using
WD-40. However, for contact cleaner, I use something else.


I have in my mind, a tv tuner on the WD-40 can. Am I right ?

My preferred general purpose spray is CRC 2-26 .
I know that says, improves electrical properties, and plastic safe.

I used to have a lot of problems with volume controls in the desert. Sand?
Also have a can of Blue Shower, with the dohickies in it. I never much used
it. I bought one of the last cans.

Greg

gregz wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 Aug 2013 19:49:09 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:

Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all the
switches work again.

That works, if you don't mind doing it again in about a month. The
residual oils left behind by WD-40 seems to turn to sticky gum. Try
it yourself. Spray some WD-40 on some glass and let it evaporate.
Check the oil after a few weeks of exposure to air. I used some
microscope slides with various contact cleaners. Only WD-40 became
sticky. Note that the "electrical contact cleaner" term was removed
from the WD-40 can at some times in the 1970's. The company also
introduced a product designed specifically for contact cleaning, which
contains NO oils:
http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/contact-cleaner/
If you want to break loose frozen controls, I have no problem using
WD-40. However, for contact cleaner, I use something else.


I have in my mind, a tv tuner on the WD-40 can. Am I right ?

My preferred general purpose spray is CRC 2-26 .
I know that says, improves electrical properties, and plastic safe.

I used to have a lot of problems with volume controls in the desert. Sand?
Also have a can of Blue Shower, with the dohickies in it. I never much used
it. I bought one of the last cans.

Greg

The really cool thing about CRC 2-26 . If you just gently push the button,
it foams out of the nozzle, filling voids very well.

I've used most everything. Used more WD-40 over the years than anything.
I also have used Cramolin Contaclean. It has made pots so sticky, they will
not turn. You got to flush that stuff off, like it says on the can, after
cleaning cycle.

Greg

"gregz"

I have in my mind, a tv tuner on the WD-40 can. Am I right ?


** No.

On a can of Servisol maybe....

My preferred general purpose spray is CRC 2-26 .
I know that says, improves electrical properties, and plastic safe.


** Same as WD-40 then.



.... Phil

On 06/08/2013 09:19, Jens Herrmann wrote:
Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was
not able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg
The footprint on the bottom side is a 2x6 dil - 12 contact pins. Note
that it is not possible to use a random model switch with the same
footprint as there is a release mechanism which then would not work
anymore. Thats why the blue knobs have the shape they have.

Regards
Jens

Even robbing a salvaged one is problematic as the plastic body of those
sort of switches can only take the bare minimum of soldering heat before
they start to deform. Can you wire in switches to somewhere that has
more space and can take more conventional switches , assuming you cannot
find an exact replacement. I've burrowed inside similar switches and I
would say they are next to impossible to rebuild, even if you can safely
get them apart with their sub-mm parts

On 8/6/2013 4:19 AM, Jens Herrmann wrote:
Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was
not able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg
The footprint on the bottom side is a 2x6 dil - 12 contact pins. Note
that it is not possible to use a random model switch with the same
footprint as there is a release mechanism which then would not work
anymore. Thats why the blue knobs have the shape they have.

Regards
Jens
Have you tried contacting Pioneer's parts department in your area?

--Tim

On 08/06/2013 01:19 AM, Jens Herrmann wrote:
Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was
not able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg
The footprint on the bottom side is a 2x6 dil - 12 contact pins. Note
that it is not possible to use a random model switch with the same
footprint as there is a release mechanism which then would not work
anymore. Thats why the blue knobs have the shape they have.

Regards
Jens

Digikey or Mouser should have those. I have a bunch on an intercom
control panel..They aren't that rare. Half the battle is finding the
correct nomenclature.

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On 6/08/2013 6:19 PM, Jens Herrmann wrote:
Hello,
the source selection on the front panel of the Pioneer A-331 has 6
switches of which 4 are temporary switches (source) and 2 are permanent
switches (tape monitor). They have stopped working properly and I was
not able to fix the problem with contact spray this time. Now I want to
replace them but cannot identify the brand and model.

Take a look at
http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uplo...woivr6zn0p.jpg
The footprint on the bottom side is a 2x6 dil - 12 contact pins. Note
that it is not possible to use a random model switch with the same
footprint as there is a release mechanism which then would not work
anymore. Thats why the blue knobs have the shape they have.

Regards
Jens

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-Oxit„¢.

--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

"Trevor Wilson"

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.


** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.




..... Phil

"Phil Allison" wrote in message ...

** Stupid, wrong advice.
** De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.

You've obviously never used the stuff.

I've been using it since the late '70s. The Red does a great job lifting the
film from tin- and nickel-plated surfaces. The Gold does as nearly a good job
on gold-plated surfaces.

The 100% solution is not a lubricant. And I make no claims for its improving
sound quality.

"William Sommer****** Nut Case"
"Phil Allison"
** Stupid, wrong advice.

** De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.

You've obviously never used the stuff.


** Only nut cases use it.


I've been using it since the late '70s.

** You've been a nut case much longer.


The Red does a great job lifting the film from tin- and nickel-plated
surfaces. The Gold does as nearly a good job on gold-plated surfaces.

** Shame how it is ****ing useless at fixing noisy pots and switches.

The 100% solution is not a lubricant. And I make no claims for its
improving sound quality.


** The stuff does NOT do what WD40, CRC 2-26 and a host other similar
fluids do in seconds.

It is not a grease solvent, not a lubricant and does not penetrate small
gaps and flow.



.... Phil

On 9/08/2013 8:19 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.


** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.




.... Phil




**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do.
Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on,
leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I
treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.

--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

"Trevor Wilson"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.

** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.


**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do.
Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on,
leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I
treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.


** Dismantling switches in order to merely clean the internal contacts is
plain nuts.

The stuff does NOT do what WD40, CRC 2-26 and a host other similar
fluids do in seconds - without any disassembly, waiting or need to be wiped
off.

It is not a grease solvent, not a lubricant and does not penetrate.

Snake oil mixed with turps would do better.



.... Phil

Those who have used Cramolin, et al, for its intended purpose can safely
ignore Phil's rants.

On 9/08/2013 4:04 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.

** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.


**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do.
Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on,
leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I
treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.


** Dismantling switches in order to merely clean the internal contacts is
plain nuts.

**I agree. However, in certain circumstances, there is simply no other way.


The stuff does NOT do what WD40, CRC 2-26 and a host other similar
fluids do in seconds - without any disassembly, waiting or need to be wiped
off.

**Correct. It does a much better job. MUCH better.


It is not a grease solvent, not a lubricant and does not penetrate.

Snake oil mixed with turps would do better.



.... Phil

**Never tried snake oil. De_oxit/Cramolin works extremely well however.


--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

On 08/08/2013 04:34 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 9/08/2013 8:19 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.


** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.




.... Phil




**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do.
Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on,
leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I
treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.


I spray it onto cotton swabs and stick that into noisy jacks. I hesitate
to use it on pots, but will try if I can't get them to quiet down with
my loop of string wrapped around the shaft, so I can vigorously work it,
so to speak.

On 09/08/13 23:11, dave wrote:
On 08/08/2013 04:34 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 9/08/2013 8:19 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson"

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-OxitT.


** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.




.... Phil




**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do.
Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on,
leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I
treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.


I spray it onto cotton swabs and stick that into noisy jacks. I hesitate
to use it on pots, but will try if I can't get them to quiet down with
my loop of string wrapped around the shaft, so I can vigorously work it,
so to speak.

Would that process increase the wearing out of the pot ??