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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Fixing Headphones
I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them.
I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#2
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Fixing Headphones
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#3
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Fixing Headphones
wrote in message
... I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. The smallest diameter sewing pin you can find, pierce the insulation and a resistance meter |
#4
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Fixing Headphones
In article ,
wrote: I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. A bit more info might help. What sort of price range? What type? (cover the ear? headband? earbuds?) (Apple?, or generic). The stuff I mess around with are the $10 generic headband type, used with cassette players, radios, etc. With those, the sound element generally snap into the headband and if you unsnap each on, there's two solder points. Color Code for the typical 3 conductor 3.5 mm/1/8 inch plug green - left side audio - the tip of the plug red - right side audio - the ring on the plug copper - ground - the sleeve (two wires, one each side) The wires are small (40 gauge?) multi-stranded wire insulated with thermally strippable enamel. In a two by two zipcord jacket. (Older cords use miniature shielded conductors with red (right) and white (left) center insulation and no other insulation on the central conductor and shield wires. This kind of wire can short out.) The first step it to unsnap the sound elements from the head band. (I'm not into earbuds, I suppose there's some way to uncap the end with the wires). Then you can measure between the solder points on the element and the plug to find the open conductor(s). See the color code... One test is just to tug on the open wire and see if it pulls out. The most frequent breakage is at the place where the wire exits the headband, about 3/8 inch down. At this point, cut, strip back about 3/4 inch from the break, tin the wire, remove the old wire bit on the sound element connection, and re-solder. (If symmetry in the cord matters, you may have shorten the cord and reinstall on the other side too, or just put a knot in the other side). The wire isn't that hard to deal with. You need a high temperature solder iron to strip off the insulation. (Avoid the smoke!). Just get a blob on the tip of the iron and use that to strip the insulation and tin a 1/8 inch or less of the conductor. A lower temperature iron is suggested to solder to the connection points on the sound element. There are usually two pads for each connection, one for the headset cord, another to connect to the speaker coil with VERY SMALL wire, avoid disturbing that one. Another breakage point is at the strain relief at the plug end. Often you can fell the break where the wire has a "soft spot" at the high stress point. As most plugs are molded on, it's time for a $.69-$2 for a new plug. Or a whole cord assembly. (I've seen them in Mouser's catalog, anybody tried them?) When putting on a replacement plug, remember to put the outer insulator on the wire before you solder on the plug assembly. (See color code..., use your ohm meter frequently). I often reinforce the strain relief on the wire exiting the plug with some small (1/16"?) shrink tubing. Likewise the area where the wires exit the headband. The kitchen toaster works good for shrink tubing. ;-) Mark Zenier Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com) |
#6
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Fixing Headphones
On May 2, 1:27*pm, Cydrome Leader wrote:
wrote: I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. you could turn this into a big task, but start easy. chop off the damn plug. replace it with a new one. that will fix headphones 99% of the time. keep the old plug around to trace out what wires to attach to which channel. use lots of heatshrink on your new plug as a strain relief. Yup, I've only fixed a few of these for the kids, but every time the broken wire was right next to the plug. That point gets the most twisting, bending etc... George H. |
#7
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Fixing Headphones
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#8
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Fixing Headphones
On 5/2/2013 3:10 PM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
"mike" wrote in message ... On 5/1/2013 3:31 PM, wrote: I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. I use a time domain reflectometer. Can usually get you close enough to tell where to cut/splice. Oh really. And how is this going to help the OP? Gareth. I gave two valid ways to accomplish the task: "it will involve locating where the break is," At last count, that's two more than you. Your move... |
#9
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Fixing Headphones
"mike" wrote in message ... On 5/2/2013 3:10 PM, Gareth Magennis wrote: "mike" wrote in message ... On 5/1/2013 3:31 PM, wrote: I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. I use a time domain reflectometer. Can usually get you close enough to tell where to cut/splice. Oh really. And how is this going to help the OP? Gareth. I gave two valid ways to accomplish the task: "it will involve locating where the break is," At last count, that's two more than you. Your move... OK, take a read of what you wrote: I use a time domain reflectometer. Can usually get you close enough to tell where to cut/splice. If you have a C-meter with sub-picofarad resolution, you can sometimes estimate the distance to the break. Do you seriously think you are helping the OP, or are instead just blowing your own trumpet? Bearing in mind, of course, that the OP is just a bloke off the street who happens to have a pair of broken headphones, and probably doesn't happen to possess a sophisticated set of test equipment, or the knowledge to carry out the tasks you are suggesting he ought to. Get a grip, ffs. Gareth. |
#10
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Fixing Headphones
On 5/2/2013 3:44 PM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
"mike" wrote in message ... On 5/2/2013 3:10 PM, Gareth Magennis wrote: "mike" wrote in message ... On 5/1/2013 3:31 PM, wrote: I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. I use a time domain reflectometer. Can usually get you close enough to tell where to cut/splice. Oh really. And how is this going to help the OP? Gareth. I gave two valid ways to accomplish the task: "it will involve locating where the break is," At last count, that's two more than you. Your move... OK, take a read of what you wrote: I use a time domain reflectometer. Can usually get you close enough to tell where to cut/splice. If you have a C-meter with sub-picofarad resolution, you can sometimes estimate the distance to the break. Do you seriously think you are helping the OP, or are instead just blowing your own trumpet? Bearing in mind, of course, that the OP is just a bloke off the street who happens to have a pair of broken headphones, and probably doesn't happen to possess a sophisticated set of test equipment, or the knowledge to carry out the tasks you are suggesting he ought to. Get a grip, ffs. Gareth. By my count, despite all your bluster, it's still 2-0. If you have a better idea, spill it. |
#11
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Fixing Headphones
I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. ** Ever hear of Google?? There are lots of pages and U-tubes on the subject. .... Phil |
#12
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Fixing Headphones
Cydrome Leader wrote in message
... wrote: I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. you could turn this into a big task, but start easy. chop off the damn plug. replace it with a new one. that will fix headphones 99% of the time. keep the old plug around to trace out what wires to attach to which channel. use lots of heatshrink on your new plug as a strain relief. Or some hotmelt glue roughly wiped over the join plus one piece of heatshrink for poor-mans adhesive heatshrink |
#13
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Fixing Headphones
If you can search the SER newsgroup try *tinsel wire* for a couple of recent
discussions wrt tiny cables used in headphones and portable electronic gear accessories. Those tiny wires need to be stabilized/secured near the solder connection so the conductors don't bend/move near the solder, or the wires will break off fairly quickly. -- Cheers, WB .............. wrote in message ... I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#14
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Fixing Headphones
On Thursday, May 2, 2013 1:12:29 PM UTC-4, Mark Zenier wrote:
In article , wrote: I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. A bit more info might help. What sort of price range? What type? (cover the ear? headband? earbuds?) (Apple?, or generic). The stuff I mess around with are the $10 generic headband type, used with cassette players, radios, etc. With those, the sound element generally snap into the headband and if you unsnap each on, there's two solder points. Color Code for the typical 3 conductor 3.5 mm/1/8 inch plug green - left side audio - the tip of the plug red - right side audio - the ring on the plug copper - ground - the sleeve (two wires, one each side) The wires are small (40 gauge?) multi-stranded wire insulated with thermally strippable enamel. In a two by two zipcord jacket. (Older cords use miniature shielded conductors with red (right) and white (left) center insulation and no other insulation on the central conductor and shield wires. This kind of wire can short out.) The first step it to unsnap the sound elements from the head band. (I'm not into earbuds, I suppose there's some way to uncap the end with the wires). Then you can measure between the solder points on the element and the plug to find the open conductor(s). See the color code... One test is just to tug on the open wire and see if it pulls out. The most frequent breakage is at the place where the wire exits the headband, about 3/8 inch down. At this point, cut, strip back about 3/4 inch from the break, tin the wire, remove the old wire bit on the sound element connection, and re-solder. (If symmetry in the cord matters, you may have shorten the cord and reinstall on the other side too, or just put a knot in the other side). The wire isn't that hard to deal with. You need a high temperature solder iron to strip off the insulation. (Avoid the smoke!). Just get a blob on the tip of the iron and use that to strip the insulation and tin a 1/8 inch or less of the conductor. A lower temperature iron is suggested to solder to the connection points on the sound element. There are usually two pads for each connection, one for the headset cord, another to connect to the speaker coil with VERY SMALL wire, avoid disturbing that one. Another breakage point is at the strain relief at the plug end. Often you can fell the break where the wire has a "soft spot" at the high stress point. As most plugs are molded on, it's time for a $.69-$2 for a new plug. Or a whole cord assembly. (I've seen them in Mouser's catalog, anybody tried them?) When putting on a replacement plug, remember to put the outer insulator on the wire before you solder on the plug assembly. (See color code..., use your ohm meter frequently). I often reinforce the strain relief on the wire exiting the plug with some small (1/16"?) shrink tubing. Likewise the area where the wires exit the headband. The kitchen toaster works good for shrink tubing. ;-) Mark Zenier Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com) I'd need visual aids to understand what is being referred to. But the information on the heahdphones is as follows: “SONY Synamic Stereo Headphones MDR-7502 Professional”. Here’s one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400426911595 It is the right side that doesn't work. And the plug has two green rings. I'm wondering if there are replacement ear pads available for this. IF not it wouldn't be worth fixing. I attempted to check continuity by sticking a sewing needle into both parallel wire leads in order to determine if the break was at the plug and had no luck at all. So it looks as though I'll just have to shotgun by stripping the wires. From what is said here I should start with replacing the plug. But I haven't been able to find anything via Google as far as an illustrated diagram on how everything is connected. Do I start by cutting off the plug so that there are on the two leads left? (Of course I'd have to find a replacement first). I'm not sure how to deal with the leads where they enter the earpieces or if it is possible to open the ear pieces up. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#15
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Fixing Headphones
On Saturday, May 4, 2013 3:48:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, May 2, 2013 1:12:29 PM UTC-4, Mark Zenier wrote: In article , wrote: I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. A bit more info might help. What sort of price range? What type? (cover the ear? headband? earbuds?) (Apple?, or generic). The stuff I mess around with are the $10 generic headband type, used with cassette players, radios, etc. With those, the sound element generally snap into the headband and if you unsnap each on, there's two solder points. Color Code for the typical 3 conductor 3.5 mm/1/8 inch plug green - left side audio - the tip of the plug red - right side audio - the ring on the plug copper - ground - the sleeve (two wires, one each side) The wires are small (40 gauge?) multi-stranded wire insulated with thermally strippable enamel. In a two by two zipcord jacket. (Older cords use miniature shielded conductors with red (right) and white (left) center insulation and no other insulation on the central conductor and shield wires. This kind of wire can short out.) The first step it to unsnap the sound elements from the head band. (I'm not into earbuds, I suppose there's some way to uncap the end with the wires). Then you can measure between the solder points on the element and the plug to find the open conductor(s). See the color code... One test is just to tug on the open wire and see if it pulls out. The most frequent breakage is at the place where the wire exits the headband, about 3/8 inch down. At this point, cut, strip back about 3/4 inch from the break, tin the wire, remove the old wire bit on the sound element connection, and re-solder. (If symmetry in the cord matters, you may have shorten the cord and reinstall on the other side too, or just put a knot in the other side). The wire isn't that hard to deal with. You need a high temperature solder iron to strip off the insulation. (Avoid the smoke!). Just get a blob on the tip of the iron and use that to strip the insulation and tin a 1/8 inch or less of the conductor. A lower temperature iron is suggested to solder to the connection points on the sound element. There are usually two pads for each connection, one for the headset cord, another to connect to the speaker coil with VERY SMALL wire, avoid disturbing that one. Another breakage point is at the strain relief at the plug end. Often you can fell the break where the wire has a "soft spot" at the high stress point. As most plugs are molded on, it's time for a $.69-$2 for a new plug. Or a whole cord assembly. (I've seen them in Mouser's catalog, anybody tried them?) When putting on a replacement plug, remember to put the outer insulator on the wire before you solder on the plug assembly. (See color code..., use your ohm meter frequently). I often reinforce the strain relief on the wire exiting the plug with some small (1/16"?) shrink tubing. Likewise the area where the wires exit the headband. The kitchen toaster works good for shrink tubing. ;-) Mark Zenier Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com) I'd need visual aids to understand what is being referred to. But the information on the heahdphones is as follows: “SONY Synamic Stereo Headphones MDR-7502 Professional”. Here’s one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400426911595 It is the right side that doesn't work. And the plug has two green rings. I'm wondering if there are replacement ear pads available for this. IF not it wouldn't be worth fixing. I attempted to check continuity by sticking a sewing needle into both parallel wire leads in order to determine if the break was at the plug and had no luck at all. So it looks as though I'll just have to shotgun by stripping the wires. From what is said here I should start with replacing the plug. But I haven't been able to find anything via Google as far as an illustrated diagram on how everything is connected. Do I start by cutting off the plug so that there are on the two leads left? (Of course I'd have to find a replacement first). I'm not sure how to deal with the leads where they enter the earpieces or if it is possible to open the ear pieces up. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. On Google I've been looking at exploded views of headphones and they are not clear at all. If I knew what was supposed to be connected to what it would make things easier because I've never seen the inside of headphones before. And I can see no way to open these up without breaking them. I hate to have to shotgun, but I still need to find a way to determine where the break is. I'd really like to just add twin 18 or 16 gauge leads from a plug to the ear pieces, but don't know if that is plausible. (I can't even find plugs I can solder to locally). Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#16
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Fixing Headphones
Trimming excessive previous text from posts makes them much easier to read.
Everything comes apart (even atoms), it's just a matter of figuring out the puzzle. Plastic tools with thin edges are good for getting started into seams of adjoining pieces and cautiously proceeding to get inside. As has been offered here often, screws sometimes are/can be hidden under label stickers (or rubber plugs). There are sellers who sell audio extension cables, and I recently bought some from an eBay seller because I wasn't having any luck finding 2.5mm right-angle plugs with 4 poles. An alternative could be to install a jack on the headphones, so when the cable fails it can just be replaced with another extension cable with male-male plugs. It's often easier to buy another device than to try to locate separate parts to make a cable. I prefer replaceable cable ends, but molded right-angle are more sensible on portable equipment. So, if you happen to see an inexpensive audio accessory with a stereo cable on it, you can consider buying it just for the cable to repair something else. I see lots of accessory cables for all the portable music devices anytime I look at any electronics/personal audio stuff at stores. -- Cheers, WB .............. wrote in message ... On Google I've been looking at exploded views of headphones and they are not clear at all. If I knew what was supposed to be connected to what it would make things easier because I've never seen the inside of headphones before. And I can see no way to open these up without breaking them. I hate to have to shotgun, but I still need to find a way to determine where the break is. I'd really like to just add twin 18 or 16 gauge leads from a plug to the ear pieces, but don't know if that is plausible. (I can't even find plugs I can solder to locally). Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#17
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Fixing Headphones
In article ,
wrote: On Thursday, May 2, 2013 1:12:29 PM UTC-4, Mark Zenier wrote: In article , wrote: I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. A bit more info might help. What sort of price range? What type? (cover the ear? headband? earbuds?) The stuff I mess around with are the $10 generic headband type, used with cassette players, radios, etc. I'd need visual aids to understand what is being referred to. But the information on the heahdphones is as follows: “SONY Synamic Stereo Headphones MDR-7502 Professional”. Here’s one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400426911595 I'm wondering if there are replacement ear pads available for this. IF not it wouldn't be worth fixing. Sorry about the delay. Looking up the model number, these are $65 (list price) over-the-ear phones. An order of magnitude more expensive that the stuff I'm hacking on. Getting inside probably involves screws hidden under labels or plastic plugs. At that price range, I'd try a Sony spare parts source first to see if there's a replacment cord and ear pads. There's a link to a megabyte pdf manual on the page for that model on pro.sony.com, maybe it has a spare parts list. (Google on MDR-7502, it was the second or third link for my search). Anybody have a favorite URL for Sony Parts? Mark Zenier Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com) |
#18
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Fixing Headphones
On Friday, May 10, 2013 1:03:19 PM UTC-4, Mark Zenier wrote:
In article , Sorry about the delay. Looking up the model number, these are $65 (list price) over-the-ear phones. An order of magnitude more expensive that the stuff I'm hacking on. Getting inside probably involves screws hidden under labels or plastic plugs. At that price range, I'd try a Sony spare parts source first to see if there's a replacment cord and ear pads. There's a link to a megabyte pdf manual on the page for that model on pro.sony.com, maybe it has a spare parts list. (Google on MDR-7502, it was the second or third link for my search). Anybody have a favorite URL for Sony Parts? Mark Zenier Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com) I'll have to take another look at it to see if I can figure out how to get it open. It just doesn't seem like there is a way to open it up without breaking it. There is no way to tell where the break is until I get it open. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#19
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Fixing Headphones
On Friday, May 3, 2013 1:47:28 PM UTC-4, Wild_Bill wrote:
If you can search the SER newsgroup try *tinsel wire* for a couple of recent discussions wrt tiny cables used in headphones and portable electronic gear accessories. Those tiny wires need to be stabilized/secured near the solder connection so the conductors don't bend/move near the solder, or the wires will break off fairly quickly. -- Cheers, WB ............. wrote in message ... I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them. I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before. I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces. Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. I managed to fix one of the several pairs I have. At least temporarily. The leads tend to break near where they enter the ear pieces. I opened up a different pair last night and this one, unlike the others has three instead of two leads: http://s290.photobucket.com/user/Sta...2838f.jpg.html The typical red and green, but also a black lead which I assume is ground. I see a lot of 2.5mm adaptors on Ebay, but these are not what I can solder to. ?!? Also, I have no idea where to get the two or three led wires that can be used to repair headphones. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#20
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Fixing Headphones
Can anyone tell me where I can get the specific wire used or whether or not it is plausible to use some 20g I have?
Also, where can I get the plugs for headphones? (I assume one just solders the leads to them before using something like shrink-wrap). Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#21
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Fixing Headphones
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#22
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