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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2,
and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on. Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is currently up to about 10.7V. How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will lose some capacity. -- If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying! All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law!! http://home.comcast.net/~andyross |
#2
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On Jan 2, 8:01*am, Andrew Rossmann
wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on. Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is currently up to about 10.7V. How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will lose some capacity. -- If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying! All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law!!http://home.comcast.net/~andyross Andy, It sounds like it may be at least partially sulphated now. I would turn on the UPS and put a heavier charge rate into it, or, if that is not possible, then charge it with an external 12V charger. If it does take a charge, then cycle it a couple of times [discharge/ charge] and then measure how it performs in the UPS under moderate load. You may have caught it in time, or it may be too far gone. One really good indicator is if the batttery case has bulged so that there is a distinct bulge in the sides and ends between the cell separators, then the battery is definitely 'toast'. Neil S. |
#3
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On 1/2/2011 10:01 AM, Andrew Rossmann wrote:
I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. There's a reason alarm companies change the sealed lead acid batteries annually. Typical life on them is about 2 years. 4 years on the shelf is well, not good. Keeping them charged up at all times is the only way to keep them (or any lead cell) happy and useful. Jeff |
#4
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![]() "Andrew Rossmann" wrote in message ... I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on. Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is currently up to about 10.7V. How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will lose some capacity. -- If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying! All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law!! http://home.comcast.net/~andyross Next time you buy a spare battery to save for later, buy a dry-charged battery with the acid in a separate bottle/applicator. The Varta motorcycle battery I bought before the UK VAT increase came with a DIY filling kit so I could store it till I need it, with a bit of shopping around you should be able to find a DIY filling kit SLA. |
#5
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On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 10:01:46 -0600, Andrew Rossmann
wrote: How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will lose some capacity. The battery is likely 'toast' now, I'd suggest replacing it. If you have a compatible desulfating charger you could try desulfating it, but I suspect there is little or no hope. |
#7
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On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 10:01:46 -0600, Andrew Rossmann
wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. Model number please? I'm curious. I kept the other on the side as I have several UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has discharged itself. If you let a gel cell battery run down for an extended period, it will sulfate itself rather nicely. Once the terminal voltage drops below about 11VDC, it's on it's way to the recyclers. I have to charge my stock of SLA batteries every 6 months or I end up with dead batteries. Sometimes, even with a 6 month recharge, my older used batteries die. After 4 years, you have the added enjoyment of plate corrosion, which is not reversable. For my amusement, I once tore apart a dead SLA battery to see what's inside. To my surprise, both the lead (positive) and lead dioxide (negative) plates looked like rather corroded. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. Yep, it's almost dead, but not quite. It might be possible to recover by overcharging. See: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_restore_and_prolong_lead_acid_batteries I put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on. Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is currently up to about 10.7V. I've often suspected that UPS charging circuits were a bit too aggressive and have a detrimental effect on battery life. My conspiracy theory is that most people don't bother to replace dead batteries and will replace the entire UPS instead. So, premature battery death will result in more UPS sales. However, the problem is that UPS's are sold based on their run time and somewhat on how fast they recharge after a power failure. So, the charging circuits are designed to squeeze as much charge into the battery as possible, in as short a time period, rather than for long life. http://robots.freehostia.com/Batteries/Batteries.html How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will lose some capacity. Dunno. I've had zero luck with recovering an SLA battery that's been run down that far. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#8
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![]() In article , Andrew Rossmann wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on. Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is currently up to about 10.7V. How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will lose some capacity. It sounds as if the battery has become badly sulphated. This is not uncommon if you let a lead-acid battery sit around un-used... the lead plates have become coated with a layer of lead sulphate, in a crystalline form which is both insulating, and difficult to convert back to a soluble form. The battery now looks pretty much like an open circuit to the UPS, as it has a very high resistance, and it will not accept a charge efficiently from the recharging circuit. To keep this from happening (in the future) it's best to keep the battery fully charged, via a "float-charge" mechanism at just the right voltage (which depends somewhat on the temperature). There are techniques which can be used to de-sulphate a battery and restore it to at least some degree of usefulness. The techniques vary in detail, but usually involve applying a higher voltage to the battery (with a careful limit on the amount of current available!) to break down the sulphate crystals and allow them to re-dissolve. This is sometimes done via a "pulser" (which generates short high-voltage pulses) and sometimes through a dedicated high-voltage supply. Whether a badly sulphated battery can ever be returned to a substantial fraction of its original capacity seems to be a somewhat controversial question... some say yes, some say no. It may depend a lot on the specifics of the battery type and the degree of sulphation. Your best bet is probably to just buy a fresh battery, when you know you need it for one of your USP systems... and check the date code on the new battery before you buy it to make sure it's really fresh and hasn't been sitting on a shelf for several years! -- Dave Platt AE6EO Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
#9
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On Jan 2, 11:40*am, (Dave Platt) wrote:
In article , Andrew Rossmann wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on. Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is currently up to about 10.7V. How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will lose some capacity. It sounds as if the battery has become badly sulphated. *This is not uncommon if you let a lead-acid battery sit around un-used... the lead plates have become coated with a layer of lead sulphate, in a crystalline form which is both insulating, and difficult to convert back to a soluble form. *The battery now looks pretty much like an open circuit to the UPS, as it has a very high resistance, and it will not accept a charge efficiently from the recharging circuit. To keep this from happening (in the future) it's best to keep the battery fully charged, via a "float-charge" mechanism at just the right voltage (which depends somewhat on the temperature). There are techniques which can be used to de-sulphate a battery and restore it to at least some degree of usefulness. *The techniques vary in detail, but usually involve applying a higher voltage to the battery (with a careful limit on the amount of current available!) to break down the sulphate crystals and allow them to re-dissolve. *This is sometimes done via a "pulser" (which generates short high-voltage pulses) and sometimes through a dedicated high-voltage supply. Whether a badly sulphated battery can ever be returned to a substantial fraction of its original capacity seems to be a somewhat controversial question... some say yes, some say no. *It may depend a lot on the specifics of the battery type and the degree of sulphation. Your best bet is probably to just buy a fresh battery, when you know you need it for one of your USP systems... and check the date code on the new battery before you buy it to make sure it's really fresh and hasn't been sitting on a shelf for several years! -- Dave Platt * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * AE6EO Friends of Jade Warrior home page: *http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior * I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will * * *boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! Usually you need to buy the battery a couple of days BEFORE you discover you need it :-) At work we had a very large UPS that used 600V of gel-cell 12V batteries each about the size of a largish car battery. In the 15 years or so that it was in use, there were, perhaps, 5 power failures and the UPS failed every time even though all the routine maintenance and testing was observed. Other than the first time when it was only a month or so old and the inverter blew up [linerally] all the rest of the failures were due to battery failure. Neil S. |
#10
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On 1/2/2011 9:41 AM, Jeffrey Angus wrote:
On 1/2/2011 10:01 AM, Andrew Rossmann wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. There's a reason alarm companies change the sealed lead acid batteries annually. Typical life on them is about 2 years. 4 years on the shelf is well, not good. Keeping them charged up at all times is the only way to keep them (or any lead cell) happy and useful. You can also lower the specific gravity of the cells to prolong life. Of course, only applies to *wet* cells. |
#11
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On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 11:40:33 -0800, (Dave Platt)
wrote: Whether a badly sulphated battery can ever be returned to a substantial fraction of its original capacity seems to be a somewhat controversial question... some say yes, some say no. It may depend a lot on the specifics of the battery type and the degree of sulphation. I say maybe. One trick that I've tried, that has worked with lightly to moderately sulfated batteries, is to clamp it in a paint shaker and shake along the axis of the plates. If you can't find a paint shaker, I've used a Sawzall with a custom shaker attachment. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZlJ05SJwpU Anything that reciprocates will work. The idea is to get the gel or liquid electrolyte to slosh around, hopefully causing the lead sulphate coating to break off and fall to the bottom. Unfortunately, if the plates are badly corroded, instead of the lead sulfate falling off, the plates will crumble. As a side benefit, you'll get quite an arm massage with a heavy battery. My batting average is about 50% so this is not a reliable method. Still, it has produced a few miraculous battery recoveries. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#12
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On 1/2/2011 3:50 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
I've used a Sawzall with a custom shaker attachment. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZlJ05SJwpU There are betters uses of a sawzall. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPEBQ98VoEE Jeff |
#13
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Per nesesu:
At work we had a very large UPS that used 600V of gel-cell 12V batteries each about the size of a largish car battery. In the 15 years or so that it was in use, there were, perhaps, 5 power failures and the UPS failed every time even though all the routine maintenance and testing was observed. Other than the first time when it was only a month or so old and the inverter blew up [linerally] all the rest of the failures were due to battery failure. This begs a question that's been bugging me for years: why doesn't somebody make a UPS that hooks up to a 12-v non-vented automobile battery? Automobile batteries are available at many different price/quality points, they're pretty much a universal standard, the capacity is there in spades, public knowledge about maintaining/replacing them is widespread, and push-comes-to-shove in an extended outage, the battery in somebody's car can be swapped in for a few more hours working time. I guess there has tb a reason... but what? -- PeteCresswell |
#14
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On 1/2/2011 5:23 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Automobile batteries are available at many different price/quality points, they're pretty much a universal standard, the capacity is there in spades, public knowledge about maintaining/replacing them is widespread, and push-comes-to-shove in an extended outage, the battery in somebody's car can be swapped in for a few more hours working time. I guess there has to be a reason... but what? Short term vs long term capacity. Automotive batteries really don't like being a long term power source. You're actually better off getting a Marine battery for that. And you probably do NOT want "joe Consumer" dicking about with a the current capacity (and capacity for impressive flames and smoke) when he hooks it up wrong or drops a wrench across the terminals. Jeff |
#15
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On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 17:29:44 -0600, Jeffrey Angus
wrote: On 1/2/2011 5:23 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote: Automobile batteries are available at many different price/quality points, they're pretty much a universal standard, the capacity is there in spades, public knowledge about maintaining/replacing them is widespread, and push-comes-to-shove in an extended outage, the battery in somebody's car can be swapped in for a few more hours working time. I guess there has to be a reason... but what? Short term vs long term capacity. Automotive batteries really don't like being a long term power source. You're actually better off getting a Marine battery for that. We had a distant radio-communications site that had grid power. It needed battery backup as the grid certainly didn't provide the 100% availability that we required of the radio systems. Because of the distance and the cost of maintenance trips, it was visited annually (unless a failure occurred). After some analysis it was determined that the best backup battery option was the standard "maintenance-free" auto battery, replaced each year. More expensive batteries didn't stack up economically, and these also were donated into auto use after retrieval, where they gave additional service. |
#16
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On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 18:23:31 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote: Per nesesu: At work we had a very large UPS that used 600V of gel-cell 12V batteries each about the size of a largish car battery. In the 15 years or so that it was in use, there were, perhaps, 5 power failures and the UPS failed every time even though all the routine maintenance and testing was observed. Other than the first time when it was only a month or so old and the inverter blew up [linerally] all the rest of the failures were due to battery failure. This begs a question that's been bugging me for years: why doesn't somebody make a UPS that hooks up to a 12-v non-vented automobile battery? Automobile batteries are available at many different price/quality points, they're pretty much a universal standard, the capacity is there in spades, public knowledge about maintaining/replacing them is widespread, and push-comes-to-shove in an extended outage, the battery in somebody's car can be swapped in for a few more hours working time. I guess there has tb a reason... but what? Automotive batteries are not well suited to long, continous drains that the UPS would require. Using a deep cycle battery (such as a trolling battery, or an RV battery, would work, but not optimal.) |
#17
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Per PeterD:
Automotive batteries are not well suited to long, continous drains that the UPS would require. Using a deep cycle battery (such as a trolling battery, or an RV battery, would work, but not optimal.) Is that to say with the first power outage and running the battery to near-exhaustion (assuming there is a means to control how far down it goes) that the battery would be damaged? -- PeteCresswell |
#18
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On 1/3/2011 8:22 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per PeterD: Automotive batteries are not well suited to long, continous drains that the UPS would require. Using a deep cycle battery (such as a trolling battery, or an RV battery, would work, but not optimal.) Is that to say with the first power outage and running the battery to near-exhaustion (assuming there is a means to control how far down it goes) that the battery would be damaged? In a word, possibly. The construction of the plates in automotive vs marine (RV) batteries are different. The Automotive battery is designed to deliver large amount so f current for short periods of time. The marine batteries are designed to for a long term steady and considerably lower) current draw. Jeff |
#19
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![]() Jeffrey Angus wrote: On 1/3/2011 8:22 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote: Per PeterD: Automotive batteries are not well suited to long, continous drains that the UPS would require. Using a deep cycle battery (such as a trolling battery, or an RV battery, would work, but not optimal.) Is that to say with the first power outage and running the battery to near-exhaustion (assuming there is a means to control how far down it goes) that the battery would be damaged? In a word, possibly. The construction of the plates in automotive vs marine (RV) batteries are different. The Automotive battery is designed to deliver large amount so f current for short periods of time. The marine batteries are designed to for a long term steady and considerably lower) current draw. The 12V batteries made for CATV UPS duty are made for high current and deep cycle loads. -- For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off scientist!!! |
#20
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On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 10:01:46 -0600, Andrew Rossmann
wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on. Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is currently up to about 10.7V. How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will lose some capacity. A charged but unused SLA should retain its charge for months. The battery powered cars the grandkids love (got them on freecycle, not new at $300 each) have 12 volt 10AH SLA batteries and typically get charged twice a year (when the grandkids are here). I use a Black & Decker charger that does 1 or2 amp charging (switch selected) and the 1 amp charge works well. The B&D charger is "smarter" than the original charger which comes with a "do not charge more than X hours" warning. Many UPS chargers are in the same category - they do a fast charge to quickly replenish the battery after use, but there is no "smart" monitoring. I've seen several different brands of small UPS (300 watts or so) kill batteries in a year or less - even if unused. The charging circuit simply cooks the battery. Forget about using a UPS to charge a battery. Instead, buy a real charger which won't destroy a bettery even if it's left on charge all the time. For most UPS batteries, I would recommend the Black & Decker Smart Battery Maintainer. It uses a switch mode power supply and has LEDs for "charging" and "charge complete". The charger is $22 at amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-B.../dp/B000AMOEPA and I've seen it for about $20 at Target and Walmart. If you can find the older version with the 1amp/2amp charge level switch, it's even better on the smaller batteries. Keep an SLA battery properly charged and it will last a very long time. The electric cars are typically driven until they no longer move, so the batteries get a full discharge at relatively high current (5 amps on level driveway; 15 amps uphill - more if two kids in one car). These batteries have been in service two years and seem to have close to their original capacity. John |
#21
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I think the reason for the long battery life in this case, is more likely
due to the quality of the batteries you're using. What is the brand name and model number of the batteries? -- Cheers, WB .............. wrote in message ... A charged but unused SLA should retain its charge for months. The battery powered cars the grandkids love (got them on freecycle, not new at $300 each) have 12 volt 10AH SLA batteries and typically get charged twice a year (when the grandkids are here). I use a Black & Decker charger that does 1 or2 amp charging (switch selected) and the 1 amp charge works well. The B&D charger is "smarter" than the original charger which comes with a "do not charge more than X hours" warning. Many UPS chargers are in the same category - they do a fast charge to quickly replenish the battery after use, but there is no "smart" monitoring. I've seen several different brands of small UPS (300 watts or so) kill batteries in a year or less - even if unused. The charging circuit simply cooks the battery. Forget about using a UPS to charge a battery. Instead, buy a real charger which won't destroy a bettery even if it's left on charge all the time. For most UPS batteries, I would recommend the Black & Decker Smart Battery Maintainer. It uses a switch mode power supply and has LEDs for "charging" and "charge complete". The charger is $22 at amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-B.../dp/B000AMOEPA and I've seen it for about $20 at Target and Walmart. If you can find the older version with the 1amp/2amp charge level switch, it's even better on the smaller batteries. Keep an SLA battery properly charged and it will last a very long time. The electric cars are typically driven until they no longer move, so the batteries get a full discharge at relatively high current (5 amps on level driveway; 15 amps uphill - more if two kids in one car). These batteries have been in service two years and seem to have close to their original capacity. John |
#22
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In article ,
says... On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 10:01:46 -0600, Andrew Rossmann wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. Model number please? I'm curious. The battery I'm trying to recover is a PowerSonic PS1270. The UPS I want to put it in (the current battery lasted about 5 minutes) is a Back UPS ES 725. I'm trying to use an unused ES 350 to charge it for now. It was up to about 11.1V this morning. I may try the shake thing another poster mentioned, as a last resort. Problem is, I buy these things, but then completely forget about them until I need them!! It's not too big of a deal, as it's just a convenience to try and keep the Comcast DVR powered up as it can take a day or two for the program guide to fully reload. -- If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying! All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law!! http://home.comcast.net/~andyross |
#23
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I have been following this thread for awhile. Many have talked
about sulfated cells and you initially said the charging current was less than 10 mA. Given the low battery terminal voltage, I doubt the problem is a sulfated battery since sulfation leads to a high impedance battery and high terminal voltage while charging. I would suspect a problem with the charging circuitry in the 'spare' UPS you are using for charging. The current should be closer to 1A until the voltage rises some more. At ~13.6 volts the current should drop off markedly. David "Andrew Rossmann" wrote in message ... In article , says... On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 10:01:46 -0600, Andrew Rossmann wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. Model number please? I'm curious. The battery I'm trying to recover is a PowerSonic PS1270. The UPS I want to put it in (the current battery lasted about 5 minutes) is a Back UPS ES 725. I'm trying to use an unused ES 350 to charge it for now. It was up to about 11.1V this morning. I may try the shake thing another poster mentioned, as a last resort. Problem is, I buy these things, but then completely forget about them until I need them!! It's not too big of a deal, as it's just a convenience to try and keep the Comcast DVR powered up as it can take a day or two for the program guide to fully reload. -- If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying! All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law!! http://home.comcast.net/~andyross |
#24
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On Mon, 3 Jan 2011 17:14:32 -0600, Andrew Rossmann
wrote: In article , says... On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 10:01:46 -0600, Andrew Rossmann wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. Model number please? I'm curious. The battery I'm trying to recover is a PowerSonic PS1270. That's the very common 12v 7.0A gel cell found in many UPS's. $15 to $20 almost everywhere. The UPS I want to put it in (the current battery lasted about 5 minutes) is a Back UPS ES 725. http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BE725bb I have one of those running my home system. It eats a battery every 3 years. What seems to be killing it is that if it operates when I'm not at home, it runs until the battery is discharged. Do that a few times, and the battery is dead. Nothing like waking up in the middle of the night just to turn off the bleeping UPS. The PowerSonic PS1270 is a good replacement for the stock battery. I'm trying to use an unused ES 350 to charge it for now. It was up to about 11.1V this morning. http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BE350U Very similar UPS. It should work. I may try the shake thing another poster mentioned, as a last resort. That was me. It's not very reliable way of removing sulfation, but has supplied a few miraculous revivals. Problem is, I buy these things, but then completely forget about them until I need them!! Easy. Don't buy them until you need them or invent some scheme to keep the inventory charged. It's not too big of a deal, as it's just a convenience to try and keep the Comcast DVR powered up as it can take a day or two for the program guide to fully reload. Switch to Satellite TV. My DirecTV DVR boots and loads in about 5 minutes. You may want to power cycle your DVR anyway: http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Bugs#Bugs It is advisable to cold-reboot the DCT once a month, by simply unplugging the box for 30 seconds. After power is restored, be patient as the program guide and other features reload (approx. 20 minutes, 24 hours for the guide to fully populate). Minor odd DVR behaviors are usually cleared up, and more serious ones prevented by this procedure. However, sometimes a bug is still just a bug. I just made a quick check of my battery collection on the shelf. Last time I charged them was about 3 months ago. Out of about 8 batteries, 2 of them are showing very low terminal voltage, which is a good indication that they're dead or dying. So much for charging every 6 months. Most were used when I bought them for $5/ea at a ham radio swap meet, so I can't really complain. -- # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060 # 831-336-2558 # http://802.11junk.com # http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS |
#25
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On 01/03/2011 05:14 PM, Andrew Rossmann wrote:
In , says... On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 10:01:46 -0600, Andrew Rossmann wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. Model number please? I'm curious. The battery I'm trying to recover is a PowerSonic PS1270. The UPS I want to put it in (the current battery lasted about 5 minutes) is a Back UPS ES 725. I'm trying to use an unused ES 350 to charge it for now. It was up to about 11.1V this morning. I may try the shake thing another poster mentioned, as a last resort. Problem is, I buy these things, but then completely forget about them until I need them!! It's not too big of a deal, as it's just a convenience to try and keep the Comcast DVR powered up as it can take a day or two for the program guide to fully reload. I zapped one of those batteries with a 110 volt welder at 40 amps and brought it back to life for a short while by hooking it to the correct poles like jump starting a car. -- |
#26
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On Jan 2, 11:01*am, Andrew Rossmann
wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several The UPS batteries are lead acid jell types. This type of battery if discharged for any length of time will become sulfide damaged. Under normal use these lead acid jell batteries have a usable lifespan of about 3 to 4 years. Sometimes I only got about 2 to 3 years out of the batteries. Here in our facility we have many UPS's. I keep logs on their maintenance. I am changing the batteries on an average of about 3 years. If l leave a UPS discharged for more than about a week, I have to replace the battery. I found they become damaged very fast. When the UPS is powered off and the battery is left connected inside it can hold the charge for maybe a week or two. If I disconnect the battery it will hold enough charge for about a month or maybe two. Jerry G. UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on. Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is currently up to about 10.7V. How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will lose some capacity. -- If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying! All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law!!http://home.comcast.net/~andyross |
#27
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On Mon, 3 Jan 2011 17:48:13 -0600, "David"
wrote: I have been following this thread for awhile. Many have talked about sulfated cells and you initially said the charging current was less than 10 mA. Given the low battery terminal voltage, I doubt the problem is a sulfated battery since sulfation leads to a high impedance battery and high terminal voltage while charging. I would suspect a problem with the charging circuitry in the 'spare' UPS you are using for charging. The current should be closer to 1A until the voltage rises some more. At ~13.6 volts the current should drop off markedly. http://www.bulldog-battery.com/PDF%20Files/sulphated%20batteries.pdf Most cases of sulphation are caused by: - UNDER CHARGING OR NEGLECT OF EQUALIZING CHARGE - STANDING IN A PARTIALLY OR COMPLETELY DISCHARGED CONDITION - LOW ELECTROLYTE - ADDING ACID - HIGH SPECIFIC GRAVITY Note that undercharging is a common cause of sulfation. 10ma qualifies as undercharging. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#28
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![]() "Mysterious Traveler" wrote in message ... On 01/03/2011 05:14 PM, Andrew Rossmann wrote: In , says... On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 10:01:46 -0600, Andrew Rossmann wrote: I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. Model number please? I'm curious. The battery I'm trying to recover is a PowerSonic PS1270. The UPS I want to put it in (the current battery lasted about 5 minutes) is a Back UPS ES 725. I'm trying to use an unused ES 350 to charge it for now. It was up to about 11.1V this morning. I may try the shake thing another poster mentioned, as a last resort. Problem is, I buy these things, but then completely forget about them until I need them!! It's not too big of a deal, as it's just a convenience to try and keep the Comcast DVR powered up as it can take a day or two for the program guide to fully reload. I zapped one of those batteries with a 110 volt welder at 40 amps More likely to finnish it off than do it any good! If sulphation makes a battery reluctant to take any charge current; splice a bridge rectifier into the neutral lead of a 100W table lamp. This will give it all the voltage it needs to break down the sulphation, as the battery terminal voltages approaches normal the lamp will get near to full brightness, when the terminal voltage falls within the normal range you can move it to a regular charger. If the lamp trick doesn't get it going, its time to scrap it and buy a new one. |
#29
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In article ,
says... I have been following this thread for awhile. Many have talked about sulfated cells and you initially said the charging current was less than 10 mA. Given the low battery terminal voltage, I doubt the problem is a sulfated battery since sulfation leads to a high impedance battery and high terminal voltage while charging. I would suspect a problem with the charging circuitry in the 'spare' UPS you are using for charging. The current should be closer to 1A until the voltage rises some more. At ~13.6 volts the current should drop off markedly. I put the ES 350's own battery back, also somewhat depleted after sitting awhile. It's a slightly smaller 3.2AH version. After sitting overnight, I was able to get it the UPS to stay in ON mode if I unplugged the UPS from power, then plugged it back in. I roughly measured nearly 100mA of charge. I tried swapping the other battery, and it was back to 5mA. I'm considering that battery toast. The battery in the one UPS that lasted only 5 minutes has been drained once or twice before, so has lost capacity from that. I'll get a pair of batteries to replace both of the ES 725's I have, as both are nearly the same age. Now to figure out where to safely recycle these. I have a pair of old 12AH's from another UPS that have been sitting around in addition to the ones I'll be replacing. -- If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying! All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law!! http://home.comcast.net/~andyross |
#30
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On 1/4/2011 5:11 PM, Andrew Rossmann wrote:
Now to figure out where to safely recycle these. I have a pair of old 12AH's from another UPS that have been sitting around in addition to the ones I'll be replacing. Ace Hardware and Home Depot _should_ have a battery recycling program since they sell batteries for tools and emergency lighting. (Both NiCad and gell cells. If not, look in the yellow pages for a recycling center. Jeff |
#31
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On Tue, 4 Jan 2011 17:11:27 -0600, Andrew Rossmann
wrote: I put the ES 350's own battery back, also somewhat depleted after sitting awhile. It's a slightly smaller 3.2AH version. After sitting overnight, I was able to get it the UPS to stay in ON mode if I unplugged the UPS from power, then plugged it back in. I roughly measured nearly 100mA of charge. I tried swapping the other battery, and it was back to 5mA. I'm considering that battery toast. Yep, it's dead. The battery in the one UPS that lasted only 5 minutes has been drained once or twice before, so has lost capacity from that. I'll get a pair of batteries to replace both of the ES 725's I have, as both are nearly the same age. Also dead. Favorite UPS battery vendor of the week: http://www.batterywholesale.com Now to figure out where to safely recycle these. I have a pair of old 12AH's from another UPS that have been sitting around in addition to the ones I'll be replacing. http://www.call2recycle.org See "drop off locations" on the right side of the page. Not every location will take SLA batteries, so it's best to ask before leaving a pile on their doorstep. In general, any place that sells SLA batteries, will also take them for recycling. Also, nobody wants a leaking battery so make sure it's not dripping acid. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#32
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![]() Andrew Rossmann wrote: In article , says... I have been following this thread for awhile. Many have talked about sulfated cells and you initially said the charging current was less than 10 mA. Given the low battery terminal voltage, I doubt the problem is a sulfated battery since sulfation leads to a high impedance battery and high terminal voltage while charging. I would suspect a problem with the charging circuitry in the 'spare' UPS you are using for charging. The current should be closer to 1A until the voltage rises some more. At ~13.6 volts the current should drop off markedly. I put the ES 350's own battery back, also somewhat depleted after sitting awhile. It's a slightly smaller 3.2AH version. After sitting overnight, I was able to get it the UPS to stay in ON mode if I unplugged the UPS from power, then plugged it back in. I roughly measured nearly 100mA of charge. I tried swapping the other battery, and it was back to 5mA. I'm considering that battery toast. The battery in the one UPS that lasted only 5 minutes has been drained once or twice before, so has lost capacity from that. I'll get a pair of batteries to replace both of the ES 725's I have, as both are nearly the same age. Now to figure out where to safely recycle these. I have a pair of old 12AH's from another UPS that have been sitting around in addition to the ones I'll be replacing. Most places that recycle car batteries will take them. Here in Central Florida I can drop them off at any of the transfer stations. If they say they can't take them, tell them they are built like car batteries, but smaller. Or tell them it was on your motorcycle. ;-) -- For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off scientist!!! |
#33
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In article ,
says... I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2, and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on. Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is currently up to about 10.7V. How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will lose some capacity. Just a note that on that dead battery, the manufacturer date code (how to read the code was on the PowerSonic web site) was from December 2002, and it had never been used. No wonder it was dead! I went and bought 2 replacement batteries. I should have done my homework first and looked at what was actually in the UPS's. The battery I found on-line was a PowerSonic PS-1270. This is a basic, 12V 7AH battery. They are dated from October and November of 2010. The battery I took out of the UPS, after removing the APC label, was a BB Batttery HR9-12. This is a 9AH HighRate. The PowerSonic equivalent would be the PSH-1280FR. The date code for the BB battery is DD021018. Haven't found how to read that, yet. Just how much life will I lose with these 7AH batteries, and do you think the HR rating will make a difference? The UPS is rated 725VA, although I only have a VCR and cable box plugged into it the backup section. Costwise, it wasn't too big a deal. The 2 batteries ($14 each) and shipping ($13 for the pair) were about the same as buying a single genuine APC battery. I bought them from PortablePower.com, via Amazon. They do have the PowerSonic 1280 for $20.50. Any suggestions for any other brand that you may trust more? -- If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying! All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law!! http://home.comcast.net/~andyross |
#34
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On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 19:23:40 -0600, Andrew Rossmann
wrote: Just a note that on that dead battery, the manufacturer date code (how to read the code was on the PowerSonic web site) was from December 2002, and it had never been used. No wonder it was dead! I went and bought 2 replacement batteries. I should have done my homework first and looked at what was actually in the UPS's. The battery I found on-line was a PowerSonic PS-1270. This is a basic, 12V 7AH battery. They are dated from October and November of 2010. The battery I took out of the UPS, after removing the APC label, was a BB Batttery HR9-12. This is a 9AH HighRate. The PowerSonic equivalent would be the PSH-1280FR. The date code for the BB battery is DD021018. Haven't found how to read that, yet. If I follow the story correctly, your dead battery was originally purchased as a "spare". Ergo you had the subject UPS at that time or shortly thereafter. Is there any reason you haven't gone with the logical YYMMDD interpretation of the BB date? Just how much life will I lose with these 7AH batteries, and do you think the HR rating will make a difference? The UPS is rated 725VA, although I only have a VCR and cable box plugged into it the backup section. IMOE the main issue with using "standard" (as opposed to high rate) batteries in a UPS is they are being operated outside their design envelope at any decent proportion of UPS load capability - which in your case *may* be irrelevant. I have seen standard batteries' deliverable capacity deteriorate after a handful of serious discharges in UPS duty, and the HR units haven't exhibited this. One thing I haven't actually done is measure temp rise in the battery after a full load discharge to cutoff - THAT would be a telling comparison. We always reload SLA/VRLA-based UPS with HR batteries. Costwise, it wasn't too big a deal. The 2 batteries ($14 each) and shipping ($13 for the pair) were about the same as buying a single genuine APC battery. I bought them from PortablePower.com, via Amazon. They do have the PowerSonic 1280 for $20.50. Any suggestions for any other brand that you may trust more? Most "genuine APC" batteries we have seen are BB anyway. |
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