Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over the
heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any other
ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow fit a
standard (large) impact driver ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over
the heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any
other ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow
fit a standard (large) impact driver ?

I have a small impact driver - Makita TD020D - which is just brilliant for
such things. The impact mechanism means far less chance of 'slot'
damage/cam out. It even took out some door hinge slotted screws that had
been painted over.

One of the best power tools ever made.

--
*Windows will never cease *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

N_Cook wrote:
Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over the
heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any other
ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow fit a
standard (large) impact driver ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



Get your self an impact driver. They come in the manual or
power driven type..
A manual with a small hammer will do just fine to break them
loose.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over
the heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any
other ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow
fit a standard (large) impact driver ?

I have a small impact driver - Makita TD020D - which is just brilliant for
such things. The impact mechanism means far less chance of 'slot'
damage/cam out. It even took out some door hinge slotted screws that had
been painted over.

One of the best power tools ever made.

--
*Windows will never cease *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.



Is the Makita function left-handed percusive torque with only marginal
rotation or as a conventional power drill with hammer action, ie requiring
rotation of the driver shaft to activate the hammering ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

take your sharpest pair of diagonal cutters and grab the head from
above. Unless the screw is made of hardened steel, the blades will
get a good grip and allow you to break the screw loose with a twist.
Works 98% of the time.

In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
I have a small impact driver - Makita TD020D - which is just brilliant
for such things. The impact mechanism means far less chance of 'slot'
damage/cam out. It even took out some door hinge slotted screws that
had been painted over.

One of the best power tools ever made.


Is the Makita function left-handed percusive torque with only marginal
rotation or as a conventional power drill with hammer action, ie
requiring rotation of the driver shaft to activate the hammering ?

Crikey. It's an impact driver - not hammer drill. So the impact action
works with the bit stationary. Anything else would be pointless for
undoing screws.

--
*To err is human. To forgive is against company policy.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thu, 27 Nov 2008 17:11:06 -0000, "N_Cook" wrote:

Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change.

Heating the phillips head? Metal expands with heat.

If it threads into metal, you might try heating the metal it
threads into. And, of course, all manner of solvents. Do
you have Liquid Wrench over there?

Just little thoughts ...

P

"Take Yo' Hand Out My Pocket (I Ain't Got Nothing What Belongs To You)!"
- Rice Miller, who probably never even _heard_ of GW Bush, Paulson, etc

On Nov 27, 12:11*pm, "N_Cook" wrote:
Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over the
heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any other
ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow fit a
standard (large) impact driver ?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

if it's accessible grabbing the head with a vicegrips or similar;
maybe the "long nose" variety.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
I have a small impact driver - Makita TD020D - which is just brilliant
for such things. The impact mechanism means far less chance of 'slot'
damage/cam out. It even took out some door hinge slotted screws that
had been painted over.

One of the best power tools ever made.


Is the Makita function left-handed percusive torque with only marginal
rotation or as a conventional power drill with hammer action, ie
requiring rotation of the driver shaft to activate the hammering ?

Crikey. It's an impact driver - not hammer drill. So the impact action
works with the bit stationary. Anything else would be pointless for
undoing screws.

--
*To err is human. To forgive is against company policy.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


I'll have to look into this, I had assumed that motorised impact drivers
were were rotational rather than percusive torque.
So you can select just the percussive action in a reverse sense on its own
without engaging the screwdriver rotation ? I've not seen it explicitly
stated on the blurb I've read so far. Looks like a crizzy prezz if so.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
Crikey. It's an impact driver - not hammer drill. So the impact action
works with the bit stationary. Anything else would be pointless for
undoing screws.


I'll have to look into this, I had assumed that motorised impact drivers
were were rotational rather than percusive torque.

Difficult to explain - they sort of whack the thing round. When driving in
a screw obviously the rotation stops at some point otherwise it would
shear. And obviously too when removing a tight screw it starts whacking it
before the rotation starts. At the worst it might not actually undo a very
tight screw but just make noise. ;-)

So you can select just the percussive action in a reverse sense on its
own without engaging the screwdriver rotation ? I've not seen it
explicitly stated on the blurb I've read so far.

No. It runs at a constant speed until a given resistance occurs then the
impact action starts and the rotation speed slows down.

Looks like a crizzy prezz if so.

Indeed. It punches far above its weight. Small enough to fit the pocket
but will do most things around the house. As well as the workbench.
The other real benefit is they are not tiring to use as you don't sort of
have to resist the torque with your wrist. So if screwing down lots of
floorboards etc far better than an ordinary cordless drill/driver.

--
*No husband has ever been shot while doing the dishes *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
Crikey. It's an impact driver - not hammer drill. So the impact action
works with the bit stationary. Anything else would be pointless for
undoing screws.


I'll have to look into this, I had assumed that motorised impact drivers
were were rotational rather than percusive torque.

Difficult to explain - they sort of whack the thing round. When driving in
a screw obviously the rotation stops at some point otherwise it would
shear. And obviously too when removing a tight screw it starts whacking it
before the rotation starts. At the worst it might not actually undo a very
tight screw but just make noise. ;-)

So you can select just the percussive action in a reverse sense on its
own without engaging the screwdriver rotation ? I've not seen it
explicitly stated on the blurb I've read so far.

No. It runs at a constant speed until a given resistance occurs then the
impact action starts and the rotation speed slows down.

Looks like a crizzy prezz if so.

Indeed. It punches far above its weight. Small enough to fit the pocket
but will do most things around the house. As well as the workbench.
The other real benefit is they are not tiring to use as you don't sort of
have to resist the torque with your wrist. So if screwing down lots of
floorboards etc far better than an ordinary cordless drill/driver.

--
*No husband has ever been shot while doing the dishes *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.



Sounds useful, but I'd still have had to make some sort of long extender /
adaptor for the current problem. But crizzy prezz likely

In reply to someone else, heating with soldering iron , was in attempt to
break down the glue or varnish or whatever was holding so firmly.

Had to revert to my previous technique of grinding 2 flats into the domed
heads and then 2 could be undone with a small 3.5mm open ender screwdriver.
This time used an 1/8 inch cylinder centride burr in a Dremmel instead of
small grind stone. The other 2 I could get to with a pipe wrench, of all
things, because of the good leverage and right angle action.

So perhaps a sight no one has seen since production of Aiwa 6900 tape decks
in 1978. Trying to sort out a brakes problem otherwise totally enclosed and
impossible to glimpse any sort of view, only rather confusing exploded views
in the manual. B = brakes, S = their activation solenoid.
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:gra...500_deck_a.jpg
the hidden jockey assembly and its activation lever train
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:gra...500_deck_b.jpg
with secondary motor under the rubber pulley and mounting plate

So it is possible to work on the deck without half taking the m/c to bits
first. So you have to reassemble before checking it out and so often you put
something back in the wrong position. But you do have to wrestle with those
glued screws. As one of them has nearly straight action with long handle
screwdriver but would not undo, then still a problem with the deck removed
and a straight attack to all 4 screws to get apart.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
Sounds useful, but I'd still have had to make some sort of long extender
/ adaptor for the current problem. But crizzy prezz likely

It takes standard hex bits so any hex extender will work. It comes with a
couple, IIRC.

However, the handle snaps between pistol and inline. In the inline
position it's very little larger than a screwdriver handle.

--
*The man who fell into an upholstery machine is fully recovered*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

N_Cook wrote:

Philips heads

Are you sure they're not POZI ?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidrive

A Philips driver WILL wreck them. Read the article. Very little is Philips these
days.

Graham

N_Cook wrote:

Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but obsolete
these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

You'll probably only see Philips heads on US manufactured kit. Along with
inches, feet, pounds, ounces, degrees Fahrenheit at al.

Graham

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:
Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but
obsolete these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

Plenty still use the term for any cross head screw.

I'm pretty certain Mr Cook knows there is more than one type...

--
*Beware - animal lover - brakes for pussy*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
Eeyore wrote:
Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but
obsolete these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

Plenty still use the term for any cross head screw.

I'm pretty certain Mr Cook knows there is more than one type...

--
*Beware - animal lover - brakes for pussy*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.



Come to replace them and they are not in fact 3mm , bit larger than 2.5mm ,
they would seem to be 3 UNF threads on 1978 Japanese Aiwa AD9700. Well 3 UNF
threaded screws have gone back in there comfortably and securely, manual
just specifies some company stock number. Whatever they were , for the size
of crosshead (saves argument), they were well glued in .

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Eeyore wrote:

N_Cook wrote:

Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but obsolete
these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

You'll probably only see Philips heads on US manufactured kit. Along with
inches, feet, pounds, ounces, degrees Fahrenheit at al.

Proper measurements you mean?

--- note


Ron(UK)

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but
obsolete these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

Plenty still use the term for any cross head screw.

Which is 100% WRONG. Pozidrives have been available for about 40 years, so
there's hardly any excuse not to use the correct term. They are totally
different.

Also there are LOTS of cheap Asian screwdrivers out there with a cross-head
that are to NEITHER spec and will wreck screws very easily.

Graham

N_Cook wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Eeyore wrote:
Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but
obsolete these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

Plenty still use the term for any cross head screw.

I'm pretty certain Mr Cook knows there is more than one type...

Come to replace them and they are not in fact 3mm , bit larger than 2.5mm ,
they would seem to be 3 UNF threads on 1978 Japanese Aiwa AD9700. Well 3 UNF
threaded screws have gone back in there comfortably and securely, manual
just specifies some company stock number. Whatever they were , for the size
of crosshead (saves argument), they were well glued in .

On equipment of that era it was common to indicate metric thread screws with an
embossed dimple on the head.

Graham

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:
I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all
but obsolete these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

Plenty still use the term for any cross head screw.

Which is 100% WRONG. Pozidrives have been available for about 40 years,
so there's hardly any excuse not to use the correct term. They are
totally different.

Nor is pozidriv the only alternative design. I'm constantly coming across
crosshead screws where a genuine pozidriv screwdriver of the correct size
doesn't fit.

But think Hoover - it's a very long time since they were the brand leader
but the use of their name as a generic continues.

--
*Isn't it a bit unnerving that doctors call what they do "practice?"

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:

Which is 100% WRONG. Pozidrives have been available for about 40 years, so
there's hardly any excuse not to use the correct term. They are totally
different.

Graham-

That may be true, but they don't seem to be as common as you suggest.
When I tried to find a driver for the PosiDrive screws Hewlett Packard
used in my counter, there were none to be found. None of the sales
people in any of the various tool or hardware stores knew what I was
talking about.

I have recently obtained kits from two sources that include PosiDrive
bits. But that is after several years of searching for them!

Fred

Fred McKenzie wrote:

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:


Which is 100% WRONG. Pozidrives have been available for about 40 years, so
there's hardly any excuse not to use the correct term. They are totally
different.


Graham-

That may be true, but they don't seem to be as common as you suggest.
When I tried to find a driver for the PosiDrive screws Hewlett Packard
used in my counter, there were none to be found. None of the sales
people in any of the various tool or hardware stores knew what I was
talking about.

I have recently obtained kits from two sources that include PosiDrive
bits. But that is after several years of searching for them!

Fred
That is why I have a 100 piece security bit set.. which also includes
the various styles of tips required for those mongrel screws.

The set might be cheap but they work!..

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

Fred McKenzie wrote:

Eeyore wrote:

Which is 100% WRONG. Pozidrives have been available for about 40 years, so
there's hardly any excuse not to use the correct term. They are totally
different.

That may be true, but they don't seem to be as common as you suggest.
When I tried to find a driver for the PosiDrive screws Hewlett Packard
used in my counter, there were none to be found. None of the sales
people in any of the various tool or hardware stores knew what I was
talking about.

You're from the USA I take it ?


I have recently obtained kits from two sources that include PosiDrive
bits. But that is after several years of searching for them!

Astonishing. It's near impossible to buy proper Phillips screwdriver here but
1/4" drive sets often come with PZ1, PZ2 and maybe PZ3 bits and same with PH in
front of the number.

PZ = Pozidriv(e) of course
PH = Phillips.

And now there Supadriv(e) too which is AFAIK a compatible enhanced Pozidrive.

The largest advantage it [Pozidrive] offers is that, when used with the correct
tooling in good condition, it does not cam out, allowing great torque to be
applied.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidriv

Graham

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:
I have recently obtained kits from two sources that include PosiDrive
bits. But that is after several years of searching for them!

Astonishing. It's near impossible to buy proper Phillips screwdriver here

I don't know where you buy your tools but it's not so. Most of the sheds
stock Philips and any decent tool shop will have a large variety.

Even Screwfix:-

http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A335569...s-Screwdrivers

And certainly all the electronics suppliers like RS components.

Pozidriv, I've been told, can be far more difficult in the US.

--
*A 'jiffy' is an actual unit of time for 1/100th of a second.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:

I have recently obtained kits from two sources that include PosiDrive
bits. But that is after several years of searching for them!


Astonishing. It's near impossible to buy proper Phillips screwdriver here


I don't know where you buy your tools but it's not so. Most of the sheds
stock Philips and any decent tool shop will have a large variety.

Even Screwfix:-

http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A335569...s-Screwdrivers

And certainly all the electronics suppliers like RS components.

Pozidriv, I've been told, can be far more difficult in the US.


You've been told incorrectly!.. those junk driving bits are all
over here.. They make lots of screw fasteners with that kind of
head in it.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

Nelson wrote:

Eeyore wrote

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidrive

Well, you learn something every day :-)

Well, the crazy thing is that it was a US 'invention' but Americans seem
to be the least informed about it ! Draw your own conclusions. I suspect
inertia has a lot to do with it. Along with inches feet, yards and
miles. OK we still use miles in the UK. Ounces, pounds, tons (short
presumably) as opposed to tonnes (which are nearly identical to a
British - long - ton ), foot pounds, BTUs and all that cobblers.

See ....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SI

Funnily enough Pozidriv was heavily promoted here in the UK when I was a
young teeenager using 'kits' of popular sized screws and the correct
screwdriver which had a blue handle in a plastic case with a transparent
top. To this day Pozi screwdrivers still often have blue or blue
elements in their handles to distinguish them.

I use Stanley screwdrivers almost exclusively for serious work. There's
a particular series with a very comfortable asymmetric moulded handle
that is normally red (including the Phillips versions) but the Pozi
versions are all a slightly dark blue to aid immediate identification.

Graham

Jamie wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Pozidriv, I've been told, can be far more difficult in the US.

You've been told incorrectly!.. those junk driving bits are all
over here.. They make lots of screw fasteners with that kind of
head in it.

Pozidriv is HUGELY superior. That's why Phillips made it !

Graham

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:


Jamie wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Pozidriv, I've been told, can be far more difficult in the US.

You've been told incorrectly!.. those junk driving bits are all
over here.. They make lots of screw fasteners with that kind of
head in it.

Pozidriv is HUGELY superior. That's why Phillips made it !

IIRC it was a joint development between Phillips and the American Screw
Company. But GKN in the UK had the rights to it for some of the world and
promoted it rather more - perhaps because Phillips screws hadn't the same
market penetration over here.

Graham

--
*If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:
I use Stanley screwdrivers almost exclusively for serious work. There's
a particular series with a very comfortable asymmetric moulded handle
that is normally red (including the Phillips versions) but the Pozi
versions are all a slightly dark blue to aid immediate identification.

Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes. A set
of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a fraction of
the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But you'll need to go to a
decent tool supplier for them.

--
*A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
Eeyore wrote:
I use Stanley screwdrivers almost exclusively for serious work. There's
a particular series with a very comfortable asymmetric moulded handle
that is normally red (including the Phillips versions) but the Pozi
versions are all a slightly dark blue to aid immediate identification.

Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes. A set
of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a fraction of
the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But you'll need to go to a
decent tool supplier for them.

--
*A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


ah, decent tool supplier. I went to my otherwise respected decades
residency, local engineering tool supplier , a couple of years back. A
middle aged bloke on the counter, not teenager. I asked what range of small
size left hand drill bits they had - he thought I was taking the ****, like
asking for long stands, golden rivets etc.

( used in drills with reverse action for drilling out and often releasing,
in the process, seized screws , broken studes etc )


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Jamie wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Pozidriv, I've been told, can be far more difficult in the US.

You've been told incorrectly!.. those junk driving bits are all
over here.. They make lots of screw fasteners with that kind of
head in it.

Pozidriv is HUGELY superior. That's why Phillips made it !

IIRC it was a joint development between Phillips and the American Screw
Company. But GKN in the UK had the rights to it for some of the world and
promoted it rather more - perhaps because Phillips screws hadn't the same
market penetration over here.

Now I think of it, you're right. Those kits were GKN. But Pozi screws are now
somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the design reasons stated. I
can hardly remember when I last had to use a Phillips driver.

Graham

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:
I use Stanley screwdrivers almost exclusively for serious work. There's
a particular series with a very comfortable asymmetric moulded handle
that is normally red (including the Phillips versions) but the Pozi
versions are all a slightly dark blue to aid immediate identification.

Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes. A set
of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a fraction of
the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But you'll need to go to a
decent tool supplier for them.

Well... some of my Stanleys, in fact probably most of them are 30 years old
and in fine fettle.

You needed to buy the Chrome Molydenum ones.

Graham

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:
Now I think of it, you're right. Those kits were GKN. But Pozi screws
are now somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the design reasons
stated. I can hardly remember when I last had to use a Phillips driver.

Think you'll find lots aren't genuine pozidriv but a compromise that
allows those screwdrivers to work.

--
*Ham and Eggs: Just a day's work for a chicken, but a lifetime commitment

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:
Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes. A
set of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a
fraction of the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But you'll
need to go to a decent tool supplier for them.

Well... some of my Stanleys, in fact probably most of them are 30
years old and in fine fettle.

I did say these days.

You needed to buy the Chrome Molydenum ones.

If they make good and poor quality tools under the same brand yet another
reason to avoid.

For any cross head driver you really need a pretty hard surface as they
are near impossible to 'sharpen'. Wera are diamond coated - which also
helps them to grip.

--
*Save a tree, eat a beaver*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Now I think of it, you're right. Those kits were GKN. But Pozi screws
are now somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the design reasons
stated. I can hardly remember when I last had to use a Phillips driver.

Think you'll find lots aren't genuine pozidriv but a compromise that
allows those screwdrivers to work.

I avoid that ****.

Graham

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes. A
set of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a
fraction of the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But you'll
need to go to a decent tool supplier for them.

Well... some of my Stanleys, in fact probably most of them are 30
years old and in fine fettle.

I did say these days.

You needed to buy the Chrome Molydenum ones.

If they make good and poor quality tools under the same brand yet another
reason to avoid.

For any cross head driver you really need a pretty hard surface as they
are near impossible to 'sharpen'. Wera are diamond coated - which also
helps them to grip.

They are toughened. You can see the surface treatment.

Graham

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:
Now I think of it, you're right. Those kits were GKN. But Pozi
screws are now somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the
design reasons stated. I can hardly remember when I last had to use
a Phillips driver.

Think you'll find lots aren't genuine pozidriv but a compromise that
allows those screwdrivers to work.

I avoid that ****.

Not much option - they're very common on equipment.

--
*A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Fred McKenzie wrote:

In article ,
Eeyore wrote:

Which is 100% WRONG. Pozidrives have been available for about 40
years, so there's hardly any excuse not to use the correct term. They
are totally different.

Graham-

That may be true, but they don't seem to be as common as you suggest.
When I tried to find a driver for the PosiDrive screws Hewlett Packard
used in my counter, there were none to be found. None of the sales
people in any of the various tool or hardware stores knew what I was
talking about.

I have recently obtained kits from two sources that include PosiDrive
bits. But that is after several years of searching for them!

Fred

I thought that HP used Torx head screws !! Though most European
computers use Philips heads screws, not Posi !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

N_Cook wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
Eeyore wrote:
I use Stanley screwdrivers almost exclusively for serious work.
There's a particular series with a very comfortable asymmetric
moulded handle that is normally red (including the Phillips
versions) but the Pozi versions are all a slightly dark blue to aid
immediate identification.

Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes.
A set of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a
fraction of the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But
you'll need to go to a decent tool supplier for them.

--
*A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


ah, decent tool supplier. I went to my otherwise respected decades
residency, local engineering tool supplier , a couple of years back. A
middle aged bloke on the counter, not teenager. I asked what range of
small size left hand drill bits they had - he thought I was taking the
****, like asking for long stands, golden rivets etc.

( used in drills with reverse action for drilling out and often
releasing,
in the process, seized screws , broken studes etc )

Left hand drills were very commonly used in multi spindle drills ! All
the spindles were driven by gears or a chain from a single motor.
But you right they are quite hard to come by nowadays !

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

In article
..com, Ancient_Hacker writes

take your sharpest pair of diagonal cutters and grab the head from
above. Unless the screw is made of hardened steel, the blades will
get a good grip and allow you to break the screw loose with a twist.

Buggers the cutters though, and they're not cheap.

--
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(='.'=) Bunny says Windows 7 is Vi$ta reloaded.
(")_(")