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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#41
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Stubborn 3mm screws
N_Cook wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... In article , Eeyore wrote: I use Stanley screwdrivers almost exclusively for serious work. There's a particular series with a very comfortable asymmetric moulded handle that is normally red (including the Phillips versions) but the Pozi versions are all a slightly dark blue to aid immediate identification. Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes. A set of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a fraction of the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But you'll need to go to a decent tool supplier for them. -- *A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. ah, decent tool supplier. I went to my otherwise respected decades residency, local engineering tool supplier , a couple of years back. A middle aged bloke on the counter, not teenager. I asked what range of small size left hand drill bits they had - he thought I was taking the ****, like asking for long stands, golden rivets etc. ( used in drills with reverse action for drilling out and often releasing, in the process, seized screws , broken studes etc ) -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ We call them Easy outs over here. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" |
#42
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Stubborn 3mm screws
Nelson wrote:
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 05:20:15 -0500, Eeyore wrote (in article ): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidrive Well, you learn something every day :-) That's over stepping it a little isn't it? http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" |
#43
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Stubborn 3mm screws
Jamie t wrote in message
... N_Cook wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... In article , Eeyore wrote: I use Stanley screwdrivers almost exclusively for serious work. There's a particular series with a very comfortable asymmetric moulded handle that is normally red (including the Phillips versions) but the Pozi versions are all a slightly dark blue to aid immediate identification. Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes. A set of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a fraction of the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But you'll need to go to a decent tool supplier for them. -- *A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. ah, decent tool supplier. I went to my otherwise respected decades residency, local engineering tool supplier , a couple of years back. A middle aged bloke on the counter, not teenager. I asked what range of small size left hand drill bits they had - he thought I was taking the ****, like asking for long stands, golden rivets etc. ( used in drills with reverse action for drilling out and often releasing, in the process, seized screws , broken studes etc ) -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ We call them Easy outs over here. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" Not the same thing at all, other than having LH thread of sorts. That's what you use after drilling a hole, but what do you use for say 4mm studs/busted or seized screws ? - LH drill bits. Where I used to work there was a full set of LH bits in a case covered in hazard tape and warning messages. -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ |
#44
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Stubborn 3mm screws
N_Cook wrote:
Jamie t wrote in message ... N_Cook wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... In article , Eeyore wrote: I use Stanley screwdrivers almost exclusively for serious work. There's a particular series with a very comfortable asymmetric moulded handle that is normally red (including the Phillips versions) but the Pozi versions are all a slightly dark blue to aid immediate identification. Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes. A set of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a fraction of the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But you'll need to go to a decent tool supplier for them. -- *A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. ah, decent tool supplier. I went to my otherwise respected decades residency, local engineering tool supplier , a couple of years back. A middle aged bloke on the counter, not teenager. I asked what range of small size left hand drill bits they had - he thought I was taking the ****, like asking for long stands, golden rivets etc. ( used in drills with reverse action for drilling out and often releasing, in the process, seized screws , broken studes etc ) -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ We call them Easy outs over here. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" Not the same thing at all, other than having LH thread of sorts. That's what you use after drilling a hole, but what do you use for say 4mm studs/busted or seized screws ? - LH drill bits. Where I used to work there was a full set of LH bits in a case covered in hazard tape and warning messages. We only use LH bits only in the hopes that maybe the remainder will spin out as we're drilling. Mostly for small holes where easy outs are not practical. Even with that, our machinist still don't have much better luck, than just simply drilling out the hole as close as possible with a RH bit and run a tap down through it. Most of the problems I hand over to the machinist have loctite broken screws heads.. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" |
#45
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Stubborn 3mm screws
Jamie t wrote in message
... N_Cook wrote: Jamie t wrote in message ... N_Cook wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... In article , Eeyore wrote: We only use LH bits only in the hopes that maybe the remainder will spin out as we're drilling. Mostly for small holes where easy outs are not practical. Even with that, our machinist still don't have much better luck, than just simply drilling out the hole as close as possible with a RH bit and run a tap down through it. Most of the problems I hand over to the machinist have loctite broken screws heads.. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" This is the situation I commonly find, small screws, written up as a tip for others To free seized equipment knobs For the situation where the knobs are seized onto the shaft by rusted grub screws,especially where the screw penetrates the shaft; after you have butchered the grub screw slot try this. And it is one of ten virtually irreplaceable knobs. Make up some guide tubes,small enough to just slide into the hole in the knob containing the grub screw,these tubes drilled on a lathe with a clearance bore to take a drill bit. This drill bit usually needs to be extended by brazing onto a longish rod (so the chuck of the drill misses the face of the equipment). Use some cutting oil and drill into the grub screw. Ideally use left hand drill bits and left-handed power drill rotation, such drill bits are available from specialist suppliers. To convert a right hand drill bit well enough for this use grind the cutting face back on the opposite rake angle, swarf clearance is not relevant here. Often the bite into the drill bit into the screw or the localised vibration or heating is enough to shift the screw. Now use a small "easi out"(maybe this is a UK trade name),but consist of a coarse left-handed cutting thread on a coarse taper. Wind into the hole in the grub screw and hopefully extract. I don't use easi-outs as the smallest ones for this purpose are very week and if it breaks you have a lump of high carbon steel just where you don't want it. Maybe appropriate for very large knobs only. If this fails repeat the first procedure with larger diameter drill bits and appropriate protection sleeves until nothing remains of the grub screw,retap a larger hole and use a larger grub screw for knob reuse. -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ |
#46
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Stubborn 3mm screws
On Thu, 27 Nov 2008 17:11:06 -0000, "N_Cook" wrote:
:Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the :screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with :soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over the :heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any other :ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow fit a :standard (large) impact driver ? If you aren't succesful at removing the screws, and you don't want to grind them off and then use a small ezi-out - getting that small hole centred is a pita - then you might try the Rolson damaged screw and bolt remover kit http://www.rolsontools.com/search.as...rchStock=28997 Maplin currently have it on sale for UKP8.99. It claims to be good down to 3mm screws and might be useful for the future. |
#47
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Stubborn 3mm screws
In article ,
Eeyore wrote: But Pozi screws are now somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the design reasons stated. I can hardly remember when I last had to use a Phillips driver. I've been using a #1 Phillips driver for the case screws on my Icom and Kenwood Ham Radio equipment. It seems to work OK, as long as I use a driver that hasn't had its tip rounded. Does anyone know if these particular screws are actually PoziDrive? Fred |
#48
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Stubborn 3mm screws
In article ,
Fred McKenzie wrote: But Pozi screws are now somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the design reasons stated. I can hardly remember when I last had to use a Phillips driver. I've been using a #1 Phillips driver for the case screws on my Icom and Kenwood Ham Radio equipment. It seems to work OK, as long as I use a driver that hasn't had its tip rounded. Does anyone know if these particular screws are actually PoziDrive? In theory Pozidriv screws should be identified by an engraved cross on the head - but I'm not sure this is always done with bright finish ones designed to be seen. -- *Santa's helpers are subordinate clauses* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#49
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Stubborn 3mm screws
Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article , Eeyore wrote: But Pozi screws are now somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the design reasons stated. I can hardly remember when I last had to use a Phillips driver. I've been using a #1 Phillips driver for the case screws on my Icom and Kenwood Ham Radio equipment. It seems to work OK, as long as I use a driver that hasn't had its tip rounded. Does anyone know if these particular screws are actually PoziDrive? I don't know if it`s always the case with chinese made screws, but a true posidrive screw should have an embossed X on the head at 45 degrees to the X formed by the slots. Ron(UK) |
#50
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Stubborn 3mm screws
Ron Johnson wrote: Fred McKenzie wrote: Eeyore wrote: But Pozi screws are now somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the design reasons stated. I can hardly remember when I last had to use a Phillips driver. I've been using a #1 Phillips driver for the case screws on my Icom and Kenwood Ham Radio equipment. It seems to work OK, as long as I use a driver that hasn't had its tip rounded. Does anyone know if these particular screws are actually PoziDrive? I don't know if it`s always the case with chinese made screws, but a true posidrive screw should have an embossed X on the head at 45 degrees to the X formed by the slots. True. My best bet however is to try several 'heads' from my driver and see which 'locks in' best. It's often VERY obvious ! Graham |
#51
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Stubborn 3mm screws
In article ,
Eeyore wrote: My best bet however is to try several 'heads' from my driver and see which 'locks in' best. It's often VERY obvious ! I tried Phillips 0 and 1, as well as Pozidrive 0 and 1, on some Kenwood and Icom case screws. On the Kenwood, all 4 bits felt about the same! On the Icom, the PZ1 felt much more secure. The Icom screw heads have a small dimple where the PZ "X" might be. Since they are somewhat small screws, I wonder if the dimple is an abbreviated symbol for Pozidrive? Fred |
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