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#1
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
I am planning to install a power inlet box on the side of my house to
accept an L14-30 connection from my generator's twist lock receptacle L14-30R. Here is the particular outdoor enclosure that I plan to use: http://www.gen-tran.com/eshop/10Expa...ductCode=14302 From there I would run a small piece of conduit from that input box to a new electrical box on the opposite side of the wall in the house. I plan to wire a separate duplex outlet to each leg of the 220 with all the neutrals connected to the common neutral. This set of outlets would obviously be in no way connected to the rest of the house's wiring system and I would use a different color of outlets. Would this be up to code? The whole concept here is to have a convenient way of bringing the generator power in to the house without having to leave any doors or windows open to allow an extension cord in. These 4 outlets would be in a convenient location in the house where I can plug in my critical electrical items. Thanks in advance. Chris |
#2
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
satellite_chris wrote: I am planning to install a power inlet box on the side of my house to accept an L14-30 connection from my generator's twist lock receptacle L14-30R. Here is the particular outdoor enclosure that I plan to use: http://www.gen-tran.com/eshop/10Expa...ductCode=14302 From there I would run a small piece of conduit from that input box to a new electrical box on the opposite side of the wall in the house. I plan to wire a separate duplex outlet to each leg of the 220 with all the neutrals connected to the common neutral. This set of outlets would obviously be in no way connected to the rest of the house's wiring system and I would use a different color of outlets. Would this be up to code? The whole concept here is to have a convenient way of bringing the generator power in to the house without having to leave any doors or windows open to allow an extension cord in. These 4 outlets would be in a convenient location in the house where I can plug in my critical electrical items. Thanks in advance. Chris I'm not an electrician and don't know whether you idea would be up to code or not. One question I would have is what you are going to do with the ground wire. What you are planning sounds like a heck of a lot of work and it won't be all that useful when you get done. I wonder if there's some way that you could (legally) connect your generator directly to your service entrance box via some sort of inexpensive, manual transfer switch? |
#4
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
satellite_chris wrote: I am planning to install a power inlet box on the side of my house to accept an L14-30 connection from my generator's twist lock receptacle L14-30R. Here is the particular outdoor enclosure that I plan to use: http://www.gen-tran.com/eshop/10Expa...ductCode=14302 From there I would run a small piece of conduit from that input box to a new electrical box on the opposite side of the wall in the house. I plan to wire a separate duplex outlet to each leg of the 220 with all the neutrals connected to the common neutral. This set of outlets would obviously be in no way connected to the rest of the house's wiring system and I would use a different color of outlets. Would this be up to code? The whole concept here is to have a convenient way of bringing the generator power in to the house without having to leave any doors or windows open to allow an extension cord in. These 4 outlets would be in a convenient location in the house where I can plug in my critical electrical items. Thanks in advance. Chris There's a picture of a typical transfer switch set up at: http://www.justgenerators.co.uk/pages/powertransfer.htm Unfortunately, it's for the UK, but it give you the idea. Harbor Freight has a 200-Amp manual transfer switch for $349.99 at: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42163 Keep in mind, though, that I'm not saying that this one, for example, would be suitable for your application. The best places to post your question would probably be alt.home.repair and alt.energy.homepower. Another way to get some information would be to do a search on Google groups on transfer switches: http://tinyurl.com/24f3vp |
#5
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
On 18 Jan 2007 17:48:05 -0800, satellite_chris wrote:
I am planning to install a power inlet box on the side of my house to accept an L14-30 connection from my generator's twist lock receptacle From there I would run a small piece of conduit from that input box to a new electrical box on the opposite side of the wall in the house. I plan to wire a separate duplex outlet to each leg of the 220 with all the neutrals connected to the common neutral. This set of outlets would obviously be in no way connected to the rest of the house's wiring system and I would use a different color of outlets. Would this Since the L14-30 is a 30amp system, if you use 20amp outlets on each leg, you may draw 50% more power thru an outlet than it is designed to handle. That isn't cool. You really need to bring the 30amp@220v into a breaker panel and run multiple 15a or 20a circuits from that panel. be up to code? Probably not. sdb -- Wanted: Omnibook 800 & accessories, cheap, working or not sdbuse1 on mailhost bigfoot.com |
#6
Posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.repair
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
Good idea on posting to alt.home.repair also.
So that outdoor inlet that I linked to is $53. I saw some L14-30 flanged inlets on ebay for $12 plus $4 s&h (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=110079121868). The trouble I am having is finding a outdoor 3R or better rated box that would accept a flanged inlet. Does anyone have any suggestions here. If I can find such a box for even $20, it would still be a savings over the $53 Gen-Tran. Also, are my wiring assumptions correct? Common neutral and each positive leg to each duplex outlet? Thanks in advance, Chris Speedy Jim wrote: wrote: satellite_chris wrote: I am planning to install a power inlet box on the side of my house to accept an L14-30 connection from my generator's twist lock receptacle L14-30R. Here is the particular outdoor enclosure that I plan to use: http://www.gen-tran.com/eshop/10Expa...ductCode=14302 From there I would run a small piece of conduit from that input box to a new electrical box on the opposite side of the wall in the house. I plan to wire a separate duplex outlet to each leg of the 220 with all the neutrals connected to the common neutral. This set of outlets would obviously be in no way connected to the rest of the house's wiring system and I would use a different color of outlets. Would this be up to code? The whole concept here is to have a convenient way of bringing the generator power in to the house without having to leave any doors or windows open to allow an extension cord in. These 4 outlets would be in a convenient location in the house where I can plug in my critical electrical items. Thanks in advance. Chris I'm not an electrician and don't know whether you idea would be up to code or not. One question I would have is what you are going to do with the ground wire. What you are planning sounds like a heck of a lot of work and it won't be all that useful when you get done. I wonder if there's some way that you could (legally) connect your generator directly to your service entrance box via some sort of inexpensive, manual transfer switch? The gennie absolutely must be grounded (to earth) and the Neutral bonded to Ground. Rather than sticking a pipe in the gound, consider running an equipment ground to the grounding point used by the house service entrance. But your idea to run a conduit into the house for dedicated receptacles sounds good, since it won't in any way be connected to the incoming power line. "inexpensive, manual transfer switch?" They are neither inexpensive nor simple. Done properly means a lot of tricky work. For more opinions on this setup, post over to: alt.home.repair Jim |
#7
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
In article , sylvan butler wrote:
Since the L14-30 is a 30amp system, if you use 20amp outlets on each leg, you may draw 50% more power thru an outlet than it is designed to handle. How do you figure that? That isn't cool. You really need to bring the 30amp@220v into a breaker panel and run multiple 15a or 20a circuits from that panel. be up to code? Probably not. Why not? What article is it in violation of? -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#8
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 13:42:27 GMT, Doug Miller wrote:
In article , sylvan butler wrote: Since the L14-30 is a 30amp system, if you use 20amp outlets on each leg, you may draw 50% more power thru an outlet than it is designed to handle. How do you figure that? What is the amperage rating on an L14-30? 30 amps. What is the amerage rating on a standard "duplex" outlet? 15 or 20 amps. be up to code? Probably not. Why not? What article is it in violation of? I'm not going to waste my time trying to find the reference. But if you think you can safely wire a 20amp outlet into a 30amp circuit, please go right ahead. sdb -- Wanted: Omnibook 800 & accessories, cheap, working or not sdbuse1 on mailhost bigfoot.com |
#9
Posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.repair
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
satellite_chris wrote:
Good idea on posting to alt.home.repair also. So that outdoor inlet that I linked to is $53. I saw some L14-30 flanged inlets on ebay for $12 plus $4 s&h (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=110079121868). The trouble I am having is finding a outdoor 3R or better rated box that would accept a flanged inlet. Does anyone have any suggestions here. If I can find such a box for even $20, it would still be a savings over the $53 Gen-Tran. Also, are my wiring assumptions correct? Common neutral and each positive leg to each duplex outlet? Thanks in advance, Chris Speedy Jim wrote: wrote: satellite_chris wrote: I am planning to install a power inlet box on the side of my house to accept an L14-30 connection from my generator's twist lock receptacle L14-30R. Here is the particular outdoor enclosure that I plan to use: http://www.gen-tran.com/eshop/10Expa...ductCode=14302 From there I would run a small piece of conduit from that input box to a new electrical box on the opposite side of the wall in the house. I plan to wire a separate duplex outlet to each leg of the 220 with all the neutrals connected to the common neutral. This set of outlets would obviously be in no way connected to the rest of the house's wiring system and I would use a different color of outlets. Would this be up to code? The whole concept here is to have a convenient way of bringing the generator power in to the house without having to leave any doors or windows open to allow an extension cord in. These 4 outlets would be in a convenient location in the house where I can plug in my critical electrical items. Thanks in advance. Chris I'm not an electrician and don't know whether you idea would be up to code or not. One question I would have is what you are going to do with the ground wire. What you are planning sounds like a heck of a lot of work and it won't be all that useful when you get done. I wonder if there's some way that you could (legally) connect your generator directly to your service entrance box via some sort of inexpensive, manual transfer switch? The gennie absolutely must be grounded (to earth) and the Neutral bonded to Ground. Rather than sticking a pipe in the gound, consider running an equipment ground to the grounding point used by the house service entrance. But your idea to run a conduit into the house for dedicated receptacles sounds good, since it won't in any way be connected to the incoming power line. "inexpensive, manual transfer switch?" They are neither inexpensive nor simple. Done properly means a lot of tricky work. For more opinions on this setup, post over to: alt.home.repair Jim Jim You may be behind the curve here. There is an interlock kit available from at least two major service equipment manufacturers that interlocks the main breaker with a two pole breaker that controls power from the generator. The kit cost around fifty dollars. -- Tom Horne "This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous for general use." Thomas Alva Edison |
#10
Posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.repair
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
Tom Horne, Electrician wrote:
SNIP Jim You may be behind the curve here. There is an interlock kit available from at least two major service equipment manufacturers that interlocks the main breaker with a two pole breaker that controls power from the generator. The kit cost around fifty dollars. No, I'm well aware of them. The "kit" may be $50, which gets you some mechanical parts, but that doesn't address the complexity of the wiring that needs to be done and it presumes that OP has the "correct" Main breaker in place. They are a neat idea though and a good solution to the whole house transfer switch problem if one were building from scratch. Jim |
#11
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
In article , sylvan butler wrote:
On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 13:42:27 GMT, Doug Miller wrote: In article , sylvan butler wrote: Since the L14-30 is a 30amp system, if you use 20amp outlets on each leg, you may draw 50% more power thru an outlet than it is designed to handle. How do you figure that? What is the amperage rating on an L14-30? 30 amps. What is the amerage rating on a standard "duplex" outlet? 15 or 20 amps. How do you propose plugging a 30A device into a 15A or 20A receptacle? be up to code? Probably not. Why not? What article is it in violation of? I'm not going to waste my time trying to find the reference. But if you think you can safely wire a 20amp outlet into a 30amp circuit, please go right ahead. Helloooooo.... When you split a 30A 240V circuit into two 120V circuits, you do *not* get two 30A 120V circuits. You get two 15A circuits. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#12
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
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#13
Posted to misc.consumers.house
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
sylvan butler wrote: On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 13:42:27 GMT, Doug Miller wrote: In article , sylvan butler wrote: Since the L14-30 is a 30amp system, if you use 20amp outlets on each leg, you may draw 50% more power thru an outlet than it is designed to handle. How do you figure that? What is the amperage rating on an L14-30? 30 amps. What is the amerage rating on a standard "duplex" outlet? 15 or 20 amps. be up to code? Probably not. Why not? What article is it in violation of? I'm not going to waste my time trying to find the reference. But if you think you can safely wire a 20amp outlet into a 30amp circuit, please go right ahead. sdb -- Wanted: Omnibook 800 & accessories, cheap, working or not sdbuse1 on mailhost bigfoot.com It all depends on the generator. If you go to the Briggs & Stratton web page and look up the "Wheelhouse 5550W generator, for instance, and check out the schematic diagram, you'll find that the generator has built in 20-Amp breakers on each pole of the output, yet it does have a 30-Amp, twist-lock, connector. So, you would be OK with that combination. http://tinyurl.com/2xsc9t The problem, of course, would come if you replaced the generator with a larger one and used the same wiring. |
#14
Posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.repair
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
Speedy Jim wrote:
Tom Horne, Electrician wrote: SNIP Jim You may be behind the curve here. There is an interlock kit available from at least two major service equipment manufacturers that interlocks the main breaker with a two pole breaker that controls power from the generator. The kit cost around fifty dollars. No, I'm well aware of them. The "kit" may be $50, which gets you some mechanical parts, but that doesn't address the complexity of the wiring that needs to be done and it presumes that OP has the "correct" Main breaker in place. They are a neat idea though and a good solution to the whole house transfer switch problem if one were building from scratch. Jim Jim The wiring isn't at all complex. A four wire cable is run to a flanged inlet that is cut into the bottom of any surface mount 4" X 4" X 4" Weather proof box. The black and the red go to the interlocked two pole breaker. The white and the green go to there respective buss bars. About a third of the homes built in the last fifteen years have compatible main breaker panels. -- Tom Horne "This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous for general use." Thomas Alva Edison |
#15
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
In article , D Smith wrote:
(Doug Miller) writes: In article , sylvan butler wrote: On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 13:42:27 GMT, Doug Miller wrote: In article , sylvan butler wrote: Since the L14-30 is a 30amp system, if you use 20amp outlets on each leg, you may draw 50% more power thru an outlet than it is designed to handle. How do you figure that? What is the amperage rating on an L14-30? 30 amps. What is the amerage rating on a standard "duplex" outlet? 15 or 20 amps. How do you propose plugging a 30A device into a 15A or 20A receptacle? IIRC, his original proposal was to wire this system to several outlets. Let's see: 15A off the toaster oven in the top plug, 15A off the hair dryer in the bottom plug, 15A off the table saw in the plug on the other wall, 15A off the garage door opener running off the extension cord so he can get his car out of the house.... Do we see anything that adds up to over 30A here? Nothing that overloads any of the *receptacles* -- which was the claim I was objecting to: "... you may draw 50% more power through an outlet that it was designed to handle" is utter nonsense. ...saying nothing about the defective toaster oven that shorts out and draws 29A all on its own through its 15A plug... Of course, it's completely Code-compliant to install a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit anyway, and your hypothetical toaster would cause just as big a problem under that circumstance, too. Unless he has something that splits the incoming 30A up between several 15A breakers (which I don't remember him planning to do, but he may have...) that feed different outlets (e.g. he feeds a panel), then he is looking for trouble. be up to code? Probably not. Why not? What article is it in violation of? I'm not going to waste my time trying to find the reference. But if you think you can safely wire a 20amp outlet into a 30amp circuit, please go right ahead. Helloooooo.... When you split a 30A 240V circuit into two 120V circuits, you do *not* get two 30A 120V circuits. You get two 15A circuits. 30A from one hot to neutral, 30A from other hot to neutral. All current runs through the hots, with nothing on the neutral, as the load is balanced. (If it isn't balanced, the neutral carries the _difference_ between the two loads.) Yeah, you're right -- I can't imagine what I was thinking when I wrote that. It's nuts. But he still isn't going to overload any individual receptacles, unless he can figure out a way to force a 30A plug into a 20A receptacle. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#16
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
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#17
Posted to misc.consumers.house
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
D Smith,
I plan to run 10ga wire from the L14-30 inlet to two 5-15R duplex outlets. The length of this run will be about 12-24inches. Does this configuration sound safe? Thanks, Chris D Smith wrote: OK. But if the 15A receptacle is the only 15A-rated part of that, then it's at the receptacle and the device that the over-current condition will exist. Again, not remembering the details of the original post, it sounded like the individual was going to run several outlets off the generator. If he is using 14ga wire everywhere, and does NOT have 15A breakers in there somewhere, he will not be code compliant. Overheated wire inside the wall is not a good idea. |
#18
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
MG Kelson
I have a Troybilt 20345 Here is the manual: http://www.troybilt-gen-pw.com/data/...0245_0esBw.pdf and the wiring diagram: http://www.troybilt-gen-pw.com/data/...30245_0wds.pdf So would I be Okay with this configuration? Could I use (2) 20 amp duplex outlets, 1 per leg or should I stick with 15amp? Thanks, Chris wrote: It all depends on the generator. If you go to the Briggs & Stratton web page and look up the "Wheelhouse 5550W generator, for instance, and check out the schematic diagram, you'll find that the generator has built in 20-Amp breakers on each pole of the output, yet it does have a 30-Amp, twist-lock, connector. So, you would be OK with that combination. http://tinyurl.com/2xsc9t The problem, of course, would come if you replaced the generator with a larger one and used the same wiring. |
#19
Posted to misc.consumers.house
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
satellite_chris wrote:
MG Kelson I have a Troybilt 20345 Here is the manual: http://www.troybilt-gen-pw.com/data/...0245_0esBw.pdf and the wiring diagram: http://www.troybilt-gen-pw.com/data/...30245_0wds.pdf So would I be Okay with this configuration? Could I use (2) 20 amp duplex outlets, 1 per leg or should I stick with 15amp? Thanks, Chris I'm not an electrician, but I would say absolutely you can do that. Your wiring diagram clearly shows that both legs are protected by a 2-pole, 20-Amp circuit breaker. (See "CB1" in your diagram). There's no difference, that I can see, between doing that and running some 20 amp extension cords directly from the generator. I would use 20 amp outlets -- the best ones you can buy. I, personally, don't ever use cheap outlets. I like the ones where you shove the wire in a hole and then tighten the screw. Keep in mind, by the way, I'm not speaking to the issue of building codes, etc. I'm only talking about current carrying capacity and circuit breaker protection. wrote: It all depends on the generator. If you go to the Briggs & Stratton web page and look up the "Wheelhouse 5550W generator, for instance, and check out the schematic diagram, you'll find that the generator has built in 20-Amp breakers on each pole of the output, yet it does have a 30-Amp, twist-lock, connector. So, you would be OK with that combination. http://tinyurl.com/2xsc9t The problem, of course, would come if you replaced the generator with a larger one and used the same wiring. |
#20
Posted to misc.consumers.house
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
In article . com,
satellite_chris wrote: MG Kelson I have a Troybilt 20345 Here is the manual: http://www.troybilt-gen-pw.com/data/...0245_0esBw.pdf and the wiring diagram: http://www.troybilt-gen-pw.com/data/...30245_0wds.pdf So would I be Okay with this configuration? Could I use (2) 20 amp duplex outlets, 1 per leg or should I stick with 15amp? Thanks, Chris You might also check this, wrt grounding - looks like your config would need to be independently grounded (at the generator). http://www.imsasafety.org/journal/marapr/ma5.htm wrote: It all depends on the generator. If you go to the Briggs & Stratton web page and look up the "Wheelhouse 5550W generator, for instance, and check out the schematic diagram, you'll find that the generator has built in 20-Amp breakers on each pole of the output, yet it does have a 30-Amp, twist-lock, connector. So, you would be OK with that combination. http://tinyurl.com/2xsc9t The problem, of course, would come if you replaced the generator with a larger one and used the same wiring. -- ---------------------------------------------------------------------_------ |Bob Rahe, MIEEE, (RWR50) / ASCII ribbon campaign ( ) | |Delaware Technical & Community College / - against HTML email X | |Computer Center, Dover, Delaware / & vCards / \ | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#21
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
That is what I was thinking in the back of my head. All the cons that
people mentioned would also apply if I were using a locking 30amp extension cord set that breaks that down to four female extension cord ends. I will be mindful of what I plug in to each outlet and do my best to ensure that there is no overload just as I would if I were running this type of extension cord set through an open window. Some folks mentioned balancing the load and that the neutral carries the difference. There is no perfect way of exactly balancing the load to say 4 different appliances. No matter how well I divide the 4 appliances amoung the 2 circuits, I am certain it will not be exactly divided. I don't see how this could be a major issue since the generator manufacturer must know that home consumers are going to use their product in such a configuration. wrote: There's no difference, that I can see, between doing that and running some 20 amp extension cords directly from the generator. I would use 20 amp outlets -- the best ones you can buy. I, personally, don't ever use cheap outlets. I like the ones where you shove the wire in a hole and then tighten the screw. |
#22
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
satellite_chris wrote:
That is what I was thinking in the back of my head. All the cons that people mentioned would also apply if I were using a locking 30amp extension cord set that breaks that down to four female extension cord ends. Exactly right. I will be mindful of what I plug in to each outlet and do my best to ensure that there is no overload just as I would if I were running this type of extension cord set through an open window. Some folks mentioned balancing the load and that the neutral carries the difference. There is no perfect way of exactly balancing the load to say 4 different appliances. No matter how well I divide the 4 appliances amoung the 2 circuits, I am certain it will not be exactly divided. I don't see how this could be a major issue since the generator manufacturer must know that home consumers are going to use their product in such a configuration. My understanding of the problem goes like this: If you were to use only one pole, for example, at the full 20-amps, the neutral wire would carry the load just fine. If you were then to plug into the other pole, any current that you drew would then cancel out on the neutral wire since the two poles are 180 degrees out of phase. If you actually used 20-amps on both polls, the current on the neutral would (theoretically) go to zero. So, in other words, the more current you use after the initial 20-amps, the less current there will be on the neutral wire. In practice, however, some loads are reactive and not purely resistive. Reactance (XL,XC), produces a phase shift between current and voltage, so in practice you won't get perfect cancellation. However, it will be close enough unless you are doing something highly unusual. If you were to power two 20-amp motors, for instance, there would be a real possibility that you could overload the neutral. In practice, though, this is something people don't normally worry about. wrote: There's no difference, that I can see, between doing that and running some 20 amp extension cords directly from the generator. I would use 20 amp outlets -- the best ones you can buy. I, personally, don't ever use cheap outlets. I like the ones where you shove the wire in a hole and then tighten the screw. |
#23
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
"satellite_chris" writes:
D Smith, I plan to run 10ga wire from the L14-30 inlet to two 5-15R duplex outlets. The length of this run will be about 12-24inches. Does this configuration sound safe? Thanks, Chris I'm not an electrician, so I'm not exactly qualified to judge. ...but, my impressions are that connecting the 10ga wire to the receptacle will be difficult, and nothing will be really grounded. From what I've heard you say, you want permanent outlets and wall wiring, and this makes it a code issue, even though the generator may be a temporary connection. You really need to talk to an electrician or inspector - if you go to your local permit supplier with some plans, you can probably get the advice of an inspector to tell you if it would pass. Duplex outlets with what is called an "isolated ground" can be installed (e.g., they may be present when outlets are fed by an Uninterruptible Power Supply that completely isolates the circuit from the mains). I know they exist, but the details are beyond my experience. The ones I've seen are red in colour. My sister-in-law's uncle died in a house fire last week, which probably started as the result of electrical work done earlier in the day (by a contractor). Electricity is something to be careful with. |
#24
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
D Smith,
Good point on connecting the 10ga wire to the receptacle. How about using a receptacle with pigtails (although not cheap)? http://www.onestopbuy.com/5362-L-8082.asp I know that I need to ground the generator. A grounding rod seems acceptable but how about connecting the ground on the generator to the house ground? A third option would be using isolated ground outlets like you recommended which I am sure are probably available in a pigtail configuration as well. Chris D Smith wrote: ...but, my impressions are that connecting the 10ga wire to the receptacle will be difficult, and nothing will be really grounded. From what I've heard you say, you want permanent outlets and wall wiring, and this makes it a code issue, even though the generator may be a temporary connection. You really need to talk to an electrician or inspector - if you go to your local permit supplier with some plans, you can probably get the advice of an inspector to tell you if it would pass. Duplex outlets with what is called an "isolated ground" can be installed (e.g., they may be present when outlets are fed by an Uninterruptible Power Supply that completely isolates the circuit from the mains). I know they exist, but the details are beyond my experience. The ones I've seen are red in colour. |
#25
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
"satellite_chris" writes:
D Smith, Good point on connecting the 10ga wire to the receptacle. How about using a receptacle with pigtails (although not cheap)? http://www.onestopbuy.com/5362-L-8082.asp I know that I need to ground the generator. A grounding rod seems acceptable but how about connecting the ground on the generator to the house ground? A third option would be using isolated ground outlets like you recommended which I am sure are probably available in a pigtail configuration as well. Chris Once again, I am not somone that you can expect to get a definitive answer from. The true expert is someone who says "I don't know" when he or she doesn't have an answer. I can speculate along with you, but we're into an area where I can do nothing more than speculate. And I"ve already speculated as much as I can. You seem reluctant to get advice from an electrician or inspector. I can speculate that there may be two reasons you want to avoid that: 1) cost. An electrician probably won't want to do much for free, but a good inspector may. It's an inspector's job to make sure things are done properly. You are going to get a permit and get it inspected, aren't you? Talking before hand is in the inspector's (and your) interest, as he doesn't want to make multiple trips after asking for changes. 2) you don't think you'll get an answer you'll like. If that's the case, you're playing with fire. Seriously. I wasn't making things up when I told the story of my sister-in-law's uncle dying last week in a house fire. I just talked to her tonight: they suspect it was the pot light that was put into the kitchen that day, and the entire house was lost. The funeral was on Saturday. |
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Generator 220v Twistlock - (2) 110v outlets
On Jan 20, 1:52 pm, "Tom Horne, Electrician"
wrote: satellite_chris wrote: Good idea on posting to alt.home.repair also. So that outdoor inlet that I linked to is $53. I saw some L14-30 flanged inlets on ebay for $12 plus $4 s&h (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=110079121868). The trouble I am having is finding a outdoor 3R or better rated box that would accept a flanged inlet. Does anyone have any suggestions here. If I can find such a box for even $20, it would still be a savings over the $53 Gen-Tran. Also, are my wiring assumptions correct? Common neutral and each positive leg to each duplex outlet? Thanks in advance, Chris Speedy Jim wrote: wrote: satellite_chris wrote: I am planning to install a power inlet box on the side of my house to accept an L14-30 connection from my generator's twist lock receptacle L14-30R. Here is the particular outdoor enclosure that I plan to use: http://www.gen-tran.com/eshop/10Expa...ductCode=14302 From there I would run a small piece of conduit from that input box to a new electrical box on the opposite side of the wall in the house. I plan to wire a separate duplex outlet to each leg of the 220 with all the neutrals connected to the common neutral. This set of outlets would obviously be in no way connected to the rest of the house's wiring system and I would use a different color of outlets. Would this be up to code? The whole concept here is to have a convenient way of bringing the generator power in to the house without having to leave any doors or windows open to allow an extension cord in. These 4 outlets would be in a convenient location in the house where I can plug in my critical electrical items. Thanks in advance. Chris I'm not an electrician and don't know whether you idea would be up to code or not. One question I would have is what you are going to do with the ground wire. What you are planning sounds like a heck of a lot of work and it won't be all that useful when you get done. I wonder if there's some way that you could (legally) connect your generator directly to your service entrance box via some sort of inexpensive, manual transfer switch? The gennie absolutely must be grounded (to earth) and the Neutral bonded to Ground. Rather than sticking a pipe in the gound, consider running an equipment ground to the grounding point used by the house service entrance. But your idea to run a conduit into the house for dedicated receptacles sounds good, since it won't in any way be connected to the incoming power line. "inexpensive, manual transfer switch?" They are neither inexpensive nor simple. Done properly means a lot of tricky work. For more opinions on this setup, post over to: alt.home.repair Jim Jim You may be behind the curve here. There is an interlock kit available from at least two major service equipment manufacturers that interlocks the main breaker with a two pole breaker that controls power from the generator. The kit cost around fifty dollars. -- Tom Horne "This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous for general use." Thomas Alva Edison- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - If you have a Square D panel, you may be able to use a Q0CGK2 Generator interlock kit. This safely enables you to choose commercial power or generator power (but not both at the same time) for *all* you breaker panel circuits. You have to balance the load manually across the 2 poles, but for a safe, cost effective generator connection through a separate generator power inlet connector, it works well. For more info, see http://ecatalog.squared.com/fulldeta...tnumber=QOCGK2 HTH. KenA |
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