Hi,
I have a 1920's home that has sah and casement windows that have a
million coats of paint on them. Rather than struggle trying to strip
lead based paint I was considering making replacements so I'm lookig
for a site that will show plans and techniques for building sash and
casement windows. Any and all help appreciated.
Mike

It was somewhere outside Barstow when miey wrote:

Rather than struggle trying to strip
lead based paint I was considering making replacements

Strip the paint !

Even if it's lead based, paint is easy to strip with modern chemical
strippers. There's a lead hazard if you do it with a blowtorch and
scraper or by sanding, but not if you do it chemically.

BTW - A Stanley #75 plane is almost useless for planing, but it's
perfect for getting the paint out of mouldings and rebates.

http://mrsawdust.com

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"miey" wrote in message
...
Hi,
I have a 1920's home that has sah and casement windows that have a
million coats of paint on them. Rather than struggle trying to strip
lead based paint I was considering making replacements so I'm lookig
for a site that will show plans and techniques for building sash and
casement windows. Any and all help appreciated.
Mike

miey wrote:

Hi,
I have a 1920's home that has sah and casement windows that have a
million coats of paint on them. Rather than struggle trying to strip
lead based paint I was considering making replacements so I'm lookig
for a site that will show plans and techniques for building sash and
casement windows. Any and all help appreciated.

I'd sure investigate the paint-stripping first if the windows are in
good shape otherwise--for one thing, they (I assume) are the originals
and there's value in that--at least for many.

If you decide to build/replace, two sources of info I recommend...

1. Delta has a good publication (sorry, I don't have it at hand to give
part no) that has full discussion of "cope and stick" construction...

2. CMT has an instruction sheet w/ their window sash router bit set that
isn't quite as easy to set up/use, but is more attuned to use of router
vis a vis shaper...this one is online...

Try alt.home.repair also

On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 02:42:37 GMT, miey wrote:

Hi,
I have a 1920's home that has sah and casement windows that have a
million coats of paint on them. Rather than struggle trying to strip
lead based paint I was considering making replacements so I'm lookig
for a site that will show plans and techniques for building sash and
casement windows. Any and all help appreciated.
Mike

I've been down that road already. Have you considered sending the
sashes out to a stripping facility? It's not a bad option if you are
doing just a few sashes at a time and you can live with plywood over
the openings for a few days. Sending the old sashes out beats makinge
new ones by a mile. That of course assumes that the sashes are worth
saving...

Making new sashes is not too difficult with a very stout router in a
table or a shaper. The cutters are easy to find. Go to
www.oldhouseweb.com and check out their boards and preservation briefs.

It's nice to hear that you aren't just wanting to slap some vinyl
monstrosity up in place of the original window. Old double hungs,
properly weatherstripped and with wooden storms, are quite nice on
those cold Ohio winter nights we are still experiencing.

Jim

On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 02:42:37 GMT, miey scribbled:
I have a 1920's home that has sah and casement windows that have a
million coats of paint on them. Rather than struggle trying to strip
lead based paint I was considering making replacements so I'm lookig
for a site that will show plans and techniques for building sash and
casement windows. Any and all help appreciated.

You might want to get a copy of John Birchard, "Make you own
Handcrafted Doors and Windows", Sterling, 1988 ISBN 0-8069-6544-4.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html

I have a 1920's home that has sah and casement windows that have a
million coats of paint on them. Rather than struggle trying to strip
lead based paint I was considering making replacements so I'm lookig
for a site that will show plans and techniques for building sash and
casement windows. Any and all help appreciated.
Mike

I made mine. Even though I enjoy woodworking, would I do it again? Maybe,
but probably not. Its just something a factory can do so much cheaper and
due to the basic function of windows, its difficult to add any personal
touches to.

Picture of mine.
http://www.teamcasa.org/workshop/images/windows1.jpg

Dave



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There's a few pics on my webite

www.nbjoinery.net

New site and I'm going to put section details up there in the next few
days...

Cheers

Nicholas
--
Nicholas Buttle - Quality Joinery and Cabinet Making
http://www.nbjoinery.net


--


"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...

I have a 1920's home that has sah and casement windows that have a
million coats of paint on them. Rather than struggle trying to strip
lead based paint I was considering making replacements so I'm lookig
for a site that will show plans and techniques for building sash and
casement windows. Any and all help appreciated.
Mike

I made mine. Even though I enjoy woodworking, would I do it again? Maybe,
but probably not. Its just something a factory can do so much cheaper and
due to the basic function of windows, its difficult to add any personal
touches to.

Picture of mine.
http://www.teamcasa.org/workshop/images/windows1.jpg

Dave



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"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...
miey wrote:

Hi,
I have a 1920's home that has sah and casement windows that have a
million coats of paint on them. Rather than struggle trying to strip
lead based paint I was considering making replacements so I'm lookig
for a site that will show plans and techniques for building sash and
casement windows. Any and all help appreciated.

I'd sure investigate the paint-stripping first if the windows are in
good shape otherwise--for one thing, they (I assume) are the originals
and there's value in that--at least for many.

If you decide to build/replace, two sources of info I recommend...

1. Delta has a good publication (sorry, I don't have it at hand to give
part no) that has full discussion of "cope and stick" construction...

2. CMT has an instruction sheet w/ their window sash router bit set that
isn't quite as easy to set up/use, but is more attuned to use of router
vis a vis shaper...this one is online...

I have a copy of the book. It is "Getting the Most Out of Your Shaper". It
is a 1954 copyright. It was published by Rockwell Manufacturing Co, Delta
Power Tool Division. I found it with a Google search in the used book
vendors.

"Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
news:l42Yd.33252$uc.30988@trnddc09...

"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...
miey wrote:

Hi,
I have a 1920's home that has sah and casement windows that have a
million coats of paint on them. Rather than struggle trying to strip
lead based paint I was considering making replacements so I'm lookig
for a site that will show plans and techniques for building sash and
casement windows. Any and all help appreciated.

I'd sure investigate the paint-stripping first if the windows are in
good shape otherwise--for one thing, they (I assume) are the originals
and there's value in that--at least for many.

If you decide to build/replace, two sources of info I recommend...

1. Delta has a good publication (sorry, I don't have it at hand to give
part no) that has full discussion of "cope and stick" construction...

2. CMT has an instruction sheet w/ their window sash router bit set that
isn't quite as easy to set up/use, but is more attuned to use of router
vis a vis shaper...this one is online...

I have a copy of the book. It is "Getting the Most Out of Your Shaper".
It is a 1954 copyright. It was published by Rockwell Manufacturing Co,
Delta Power Tool Division. I found it with a Google search in the used
book vendors.
Sorry about the double post, but a 1936 version of the book is at
http://www.toolsrules.com/ORIG-CAT.htm

"Nicholas"
There's a few pics on my webite
www.nbjoinery.net

Nice stuff Nicholas. However, it looks like your shop is in cave! If I had
your single tenoner, I would not hesitate to make more windows. However, my
next big machine may be a TIG welder or a Multi-Router.

Ah - so many tools - Hmm, what project can I start to justify buying more
tools!

Dave




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Thanks to everybody for the adviice. I have a question, if you send
them out to be stripped do you have to remove the glass?
Also, the windows I want to replace are double hung sash with no
lites. I'd love to know what problems I'm likey to get should I choose
to make my own.
MikeOn Thu, 10 Mar 2005 20:03:05 -0000, "Nicholas"
wrote:

There's a few pics on my webite

www.nbjoinery.net

New site and I'm going to put section details up there in the next few
days...

Cheers

Nicholas
--
Nicholas Buttle - Quality Joinery and Cabinet Making
http://www.nbjoinery.net

"miey" said
Thanks to everybody for the adviice. I have a question, if you send
them out to be stripped do you have to remove the glass?
Also, the windows I want to replace are double hung sash with no
lites. I'd love to know what problems I'm likey to get should I choose
to make my own.

If the glass is single pane, I'd just remove it unless its antique glass. If
you are going to make your own, make sure you leave extra material for final
fitting, cut the window so it will accommodate dual glazed panels.

Dave



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Lowell Holmes wrote:
....
1. Delta has a good publication (sorry, I don't have it at hand to give
part no) that has full discussion of "cope and stick" construction...

....
I have a copy of the book. It is "Getting the Most Out of Your Shaper". It
is a 1954 copyright. It was published by Rockwell Manufacturing Co, Delta
Power Tool Division. I found it with a Google search in the used book
vendors.

The publication I was referring to may have been a portion of the book
reprinted but it's just a multi-page (4?, 6?, I don't recall) handout on
cope and stick construction specifically of doors and windows that used
to be distributed w/ their shapers...it's in the shop, I'll try to
remember to get the data on it and see if I can find out if Delta still
will supply it...it actually is quite good although I don't doubt the
info in the book is also plus more, to boot, undoubtedly.

miey wrote:

....
Also, the windows I want to replace are double hung sash with no
lites. I'd love to know what problems I'm likey to get should I choose
to make my own.

"No" lites??? Or you mean just a single pane (that would be one lite)?

potential problems...what material do you want to use? I had a
heckuva time finding 5/4 clear white pine (in fact, gave up) as
apparently Andersen, et al., have a near lock on the market (at least
unless you're nearer areas where it is produced and have access to
larger wholesalers than I have easy access to).

One real pita imo, is that it is very difficult to find the stub-spindle
cutter to make the matching cut for the sticking to make a traditional
full-length rail tenon as opposed to the present stub-tenon. Delta was
the only manufacturer of these for small shapers that I was aware of and
they have ceased production (and are out of stock, I've checked). The
only way at present to do this that I'm aware of is w/ the CMT router
set, but it's somewhat more tricky of a set up than the Delta shaper set
was. I've sent a profile to a custom house to see about getting a
custom carbide replacement--when I get the quote back I'll post -- if
there are others interested it might cut setup one-time cost down
signficantly.

How are the windows hung--traditional weights/sash cord or more modern?

Teamcasa,
Thank you,
I not sure what I would need to do to make them dual glazed. Make the
rabbet deeper ?
Mike
On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 14:23:20 -0800, "Teamcasa"
wrote:


"miey" said
Thanks to everybody for the adviice. I have a question, if you send
them out to be stripped do you have to remove the glass?
Also, the windows I want to replace are double hung sash with no
lites. I'd love to know what problems I'm likey to get should I choose
to make my own.

If the glass is single pane, I'd just remove it unless its antique glass. If
you are going to make your own, make sure you leave extra material for final
fitting, cut the window so it will accommodate dual glazed panels.

Dave



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Thank you,
Weight and sash cord. The house is a Craftsman style and the windows
are really very plain. No stubs or anything. Almost the same as a rail
and stile kitchen cabinet panel door only with glass instead of a
panel.
mikeOn Thu, 10 Mar 2005 16:53:47 -0600, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

miey wrote:

...
Also, the windows I want to replace are double hung sash with no
lites. I'd love to know what problems I'm likey to get should I choose
to make my own.

"No" lites??? Or you mean just a single pane (that would be one lite)?

potential problems...what material do you want to use? I had a
heckuva time finding 5/4 clear white pine (in fact, gave up) as
apparently Andersen, et al., have a near lock on the market (at least
unless you're nearer areas where it is produced and have access to
larger wholesalers than I have easy access to).

One real pita imo, is that it is very difficult to find the stub-spindle
cutter to make the matching cut for the sticking to make a traditional
full-length rail tenon as opposed to the present stub-tenon. Delta was
the only manufacturer of these for small shapers that I was aware of and
they have ceased production (and are out of stock, I've checked). The
only way at present to do this that I'm aware of is w/ the CMT router
set, but it's somewhat more tricky of a set up than the Delta shaper set
was. I've sent a profile to a custom house to see about getting a
custom carbide replacement--when I get the quote back I'll post -- if
there are others interested it might cut setup one-time cost down
signficantly.

How are the windows hung--traditional weights/sash cord or more modern?

I not sure what I would need to do to make them dual glazed. Make the
rabbet deeper ?
Mike

Yes, but not much. Contact your local glass vendor and get the dimensions
before you build them.
As for wood, I used vertical grain fir. The only problem was it tended to
chipout/split when routing the profiles. I ended up using backer boards and
taking smaller cuts to achieve a nice finish.

Other wood choices wood include Cypress, Southern Yellow Clear Pine. I'm
sure others will add to the list.

BTY - I used the CMT Window Sash Bit set.

Dave



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On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 17:08:10 -0800, "Teamcasa"
scribbled:
I not sure what I would need to do to make them dual glazed. Make the
rabbet deeper ?
Mike

Yes, but not much. Contact your local glass vendor and get the dimensions
before you build them.

This is good "advise". DAMHIKT

As for wood, I used vertical grain fir. The only problem was it tended to
chipout/split when routing the profiles. I ended up using backer boards and
taking smaller cuts to achieve a nice finish.

Other wood choices wood include Cypress, Southern Yellow Clear Pine. I'm
sure others will add to the list.

Clear Western Red Cedar would be my choice, both for dimensional
stability and resistance to rot.

Since everybody else is bragging, here are some of the windows I've
made:

http://www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/galleria.html

Top is a solarium with 14 windows (28 double glazed sash & 14
screened). Bottom is a greenhouse with 18 sash with two lights. Most
of the glass was recycled.

On another issue, I would not trust stub tenons. But the appropriate
shaper cutters for full tenons are apparently hard to get. My solution
was to mitre the sticking. Bad ASCII art of a corner viewed from the
inside. (The outside of the window has a stop to hold the glazing)
_________________________________________________
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Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html

Luigi Zanasi said
Since everybody else is bragging, here are some of the windows I've
made:

http://www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/galleria.html
On another issue, I would not trust stub tenons. But the appropriate
shaper cutters for full tenons are apparently hard to get. My solution
was to mitre the sticking.

Snip

Luigi, Very nice work! The CMT sash bit set allows for full tenons. I
agree that the stub tenon should not be used in windows.

Dave



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On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 07:55:17 -0800, "Teamcasa"
scribbled:

Luigi, Very nice work!

Tendjewberrymoosh. (spelling?)

The CMT sash bit set allows for full tenons. I
agree that the stub tenon should not be used in windows.

Before building the windows, I looked around for the appropriate
router bits at the time, including Lee Valley, the Freud router bit
catalogue and CMT bits offered by House of Tools & couldn't find them.
Lots of bits for raised panel & stub tenons. But thanks if I ever have
to make 50+ windows again, I know where to look. :-)

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html

On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 08:53:20 -0800, the inscrutable Luigi Zanasi
spake:

On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 07:55:17 -0800, "Teamcasa"
scribbled:

Luigi, Very nice work!

Tendjewberrymoosh. (spelling?)

Tendjewberrymud.

http://tinyurl.com/6y299
or
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/... ix.netcom.com


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