I just started on my first _real_ project, and I figured I'd be able to
use my Porter Cable router table and a 2" long straight-cut bit as a
jointer. Maybe you know how this is done: the infeed fence is about
1/16" back from the bit, and the outfeed side of the fence is set at the
bit's edge. And since the P-C table has a two=part fence, this is pretty
easy.

Nope. As it turns out... well, the two metal brackets that hold the
wooden fence pieces? That _look_ as though they hold them at 90 degrees
to the plane of the table itself? Nahh. They're just a hair off of true
vertical. So the mahogany I jointed was jointed at something like 89
degrees.

Grrr. I could probably fudge the project by that much (I'm not making a
table top, after all). But still....

I just gotta ask: don't you place the workpiece down on the table, so
that an perpendicularity issue with the fence is moot? The lower edge
of the fence generally should be EVER so slightly closer to the bit than
the top edge (I'm talking a few thousandths), under ideal conditions,
but it isn't that critical.

If you hold the wood vertically, then of course the fence needs to be as
close to vertical as possible.

Dave

Brian Siano wrote:

I just started on my first _real_ project, and I figured I'd be able to
use my Porter Cable router table and a 2" long straight-cut bit as a
jointer. Maybe you know how this is done: the infeed fence is about
1/16" back from the bit, and the outfeed side of the fence is set at the
bit's edge. And since the P-C table has a two=part fence, this is pretty
easy.

Nope. As it turns out... well, the two metal brackets that hold the
wooden fence pieces? That _look_ as though they hold them at 90 degrees
to the plane of the table itself? Nahh. They're just a hair off of true
vertical. So the mahogany I jointed was jointed at something like 89
degrees.

Grrr. I could probably fudge the project by that much (I'm not making a
table top, after all). But still....

Maybe this is to late, but....

Joint 1st board, good side up (89 degs using your example)
Joint 2nd board, good side down, (91 degs. when flipped)
When joined, should be 180 degs

When I use my jointer, and do check for 90 degs, I still reverse the boards
when edge joining.



"Brian Siano" wrote in message
...
I just started on my first _real_ project, and I figured I'd be able to
use my Porter Cable router table and a 2" long straight-cut bit as a
jointer. Maybe you know how this is done: the infeed fence is about
1/16" back from the bit, and the outfeed side of the fence is set at the
bit's edge. And since the P-C table has a two=part fence, this is pretty
easy.

Nope. As it turns out... well, the two metal brackets that hold the
wooden fence pieces? That _look_ as though they hold them at 90 degrees
to the plane of the table itself? Nahh. They're just a hair off of true
vertical. So the mahogany I jointed was jointed at something like 89
degrees.

Grrr. I could probably fudge the project by that much (I'm not making a
table top, after all). But still....

David wrote:
I just gotta ask: don't you place the workpiece down on the table, so
that an perpendicularity issue with the fence is moot? The lower edge
of the fence generally should be EVER so slightly closer to the bit than
the top edge (I'm talking a few thousandths), under ideal conditions,
but it isn't that critical.

Once the board reaches the second fence, I start pushing the board
against it. That way, it travels on a straight line past the bit. (It
functions as the outfeed area on a real jointer. Imagine if that outfeed
area was just a tad out of level with the blades.)

The amount by which it's off is pretty minor, and I'm not doing edge
joinery, so I can probably squeak by on this project.

Brian Siano wrote:

David wrote:
I just gotta ask: don't you place the workpiece down on the table, so
that an perpendicularity issue with the fence is moot? ...

Once the board reaches the second fence, I start pushing the board
against it. That way, it travels on a straight line past the bit. ...

But you shouldn't push so hard that you raise the back surface of the
boark off the table...all you need is to contact the fence to keep a
smooth cut. If the shaft is perpendicular to the table as it should be,
all is golden. It shouldn't be too hard to shim the fence to correct
it, either.

"Nick Degidio" wrote in message
...
Maybe this is to late, but....

Joint 1st board, good side up (89 degs using your example)
Joint 2nd board, good side down, (91 degs. when flipped)
When joined, should be 180 degs

When I use my jointer, and do check for 90 degs, I still reverse the
boards
when edge joining.

Easier way it to trim it on the table saw, turn the board and rip it to
proper width and if the saw is properly set, you have two 90 degree sides,
no remembering what is 89 or 91.