This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 15:05:01 -0800 (PST), Michael
wrote:

This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71

Using it as a milling machine. Works, cut is likely not very smooth,
not good for the bearings in the long run, poor substitute for a
router table.

On 11/18/2020 5:05 PM, Michael wrote:
This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71


I highly suspect that he is using a milling machine and not a drill
press. A milling machine is designed for a side load, the typical DP is
not. It would work for a while but the bearings would likely wear out
sooner than later.

On 11/18/2020 5:27 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2020 5:05 PM, Michael wrote:
This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped
dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71


I highly suspect that he is using a milling machine and not a drill
press.Â* A milling machine is designed for a side load, the typical DP is
not.Â* It would work for a while but the bearings would likely wear out
sooner than later.

Yep. Looks like a milling machine.

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This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 18:27:22 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/18/2020 5:05 PM, Michael wrote:
This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71


I highly suspect that he is using a milling machine and not a drill
press. A milling machine is designed for a side load, the typical DP is
not. It would work for a while but the bearings would likely wear out
sooner than later.

Yes, he is using a vertical milling machine, most likely some kind of
Bridgeport. You can see the standard mill table, which he is cranking
back and forth.

..https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridgeport_(machine_tool_brand)

Joe Gwinn

I see. Thanks for the clarification!

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 15:05:01 -0800 (PST), Michael
wrote:

This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71

Nice. Too nice to use.

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 19:46:29 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 18:27:22 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/18/2020 5:05 PM, Michael wrote:
This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71


I highly suspect that he is using a milling machine and not a drill
press. A milling machine is designed for a side load, the typical DP is
not. It would work for a while but the bearings would likely wear out
sooner than later.

Yes, he is using a vertical milling machine, most likely some kind of
Bridgeport. You can see the standard mill table, which he is cranking
back and forth.

.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridgeport_(machine_tool_brand)

You are of course correct and I am not very observant. Certainly a
good way to do it if you have a real milling machine, but a bit
overkill if you're buying one for the purpose.

In addition to what the others have said, one caution - doing this with
a drill press (I've done it) tends to cause the quill to fall out, which
not only ruins whatever you're working on, but might injure you as well.

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 21:14:13 -0500, DJ Delorie wrote:


In addition to what the others have said, one caution - doing this with
a drill press (I've done it) tends to cause the quill to fall out, which
not only ruins whatever you're working on, but might injure you as well.

And I managed to bung up the taper to the extent that now it won't
stay. But I haven't been able to find a burr on it.

On Wednesday, November 18, 2020 at 3:05:04 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:
This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71

Yeah, a mill makes a good dado, I've made some of my jigs that way (it can do a really accurate
depth, and right angle, to make a clamp-able right angle bracket). For a stopped dado, either
a plunge router on a large workpiece, or on a router table you just drop the workpiece
with either a pilot hole, or find a router bit that end-cuts. Or, just mess with
sliding it back-and-forth as it slowly gets to full depth.

If you borrow someone's mill, be sure to clean off ALL the sawdust; it does odd and unlikely
things (corrode metal, attract moisture, clog oil passages).

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 21:29:37 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 21:14:13 -0500, DJ Delorie wrote:


In addition to what the others have said, one caution - doing this with
a drill press (I've done it) tends to cause the quill to fall out, which
not only ruins whatever you're working on, but might injure you as well.

And I managed to bung up the taper to the extent that now it won't
stay. But I haven't been able to find a burr on it.

The standard way to diagnose the problem is to smear a very thin layer
of HiSpot Blue (or equivalent) onto the morse taper of a new and clean
drill bit, and then install it with some wiggling, remove it, and look
into the female socket to see where the HiSpot Blue transferred from
drill shank to socket walls.

..https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dykem+hi+spot+blue

You want the little tube, not the big can with brush. The difference
is that the little tube contains an intensly blue grease that never
dries, while the big can contains what amounts to magic marker ink.

The grease is used for detecting contact while fitting, in much the
same manner as the traditional use of candle flame smoke when fitting
a wooden axe handle to an axe head: smoke the axe head opening, insert
wood into smoked opening, remove, observe where smoke has transferred
to wook, scrape the smoked wood away; repeat until wood is well bedded
in the opening.

The marker ink (layout fluid) is painted onto a piece of metal so
scriber likes will show clearly, the marks being used to direct where
to cut.

Some of the ads call the grease a layout fluid, which is incorrect.

Be aware that this stuff will make a big mess, so have lots of paper
towels handy.

Joe Gwinn

On Thu, 19 Nov 2020 12:11:43 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 21:29:37 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 21:14:13 -0500, DJ Delorie wrote:


In addition to what the others have said, one caution - doing this with
a drill press (I've done it) tends to cause the quill to fall out, which
not only ruins whatever you're working on, but might injure you as well.

And I managed to bung up the taper to the extent that now it won't
stay. But I haven't been able to find a burr on it.

The standard way to diagnose the problem is to smear a very thin layer
of HiSpot Blue (or equivalent) onto the morse taper of a new and clean
drill bit, and then install it with some wiggling, remove it, and look
into the female socket to see where the HiSpot Blue transferred from
drill shank to socket walls.

.https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dykem+hi+spot+blue

You want the little tube, not the big can with brush. The difference
is that the little tube contains an intensly blue grease that never
dries, while the big can contains what amounts to magic marker ink.

The grease is used for detecting contact while fitting, in much the
same manner as the traditional use of candle flame smoke when fitting
a wooden axe handle to an axe head: smoke the axe head opening, insert
wood into smoked opening, remove, observe where smoke has transferred
to wook, scrape the smoked wood away; repeat until wood is well bedded
in the opening.

The marker ink (layout fluid) is painted onto a piece of metal so
scriber likes will show clearly, the marks being used to direct where
to cut.

Some of the ads call the grease a layout fluid, which is incorrect.

Be aware that this stuff will make a big mess, so have lots of paper
towels handy.

Thank you. That is very helpful.

On 11/18/2020 7:01 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 19:46:29 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 18:27:22 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/18/2020 5:05 PM, Michael wrote:
This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71


I highly suspect that he is using a milling machine and not a drill
press. A milling machine is designed for a side load, the typical DP is
not. It would work for a while but the bearings would likely wear out
sooner than later.

Yes, he is using a vertical milling machine, most likely some kind of
Bridgeport. You can see the standard mill table, which he is cranking
back and forth.

.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridgeport_(machine_tool_brand)

You are of course correct and I am not very observant. Certainly a
good way to do it if you have a real milling machine, but a bit
overkill if you're buying one for the purpose.



The biggest difference between a mill and a router is precision and rpm.
If a mill gets the job done faster and does a good job maybe you
should own one. LOL. That being said there is this thing called a
"bridge mill" that is made in droves for wood working with a wood router
as a spindle. Most people popularly call it a CNC router.




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This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On 11/18/2020 6:27 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2020 5:05 PM, Michael wrote:
This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped
dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71


I highly suspect that he is using a milling machine and not a drill
press.Â* A milling machine is designed for a side load, the typical DP is
not.Â* It would work for a while but the bearings would likely wear out
sooner than later.

I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

Steve

On Fri, 20 Nov 2020 12:33:18 -0600, shiggins
wrote:

On 11/18/2020 6:27 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2020 5:05 PM, Michael wrote:
This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped
dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71


I highly suspect that he is using a milling machine and not a drill
press.* A milling machine is designed for a side load, the typical DP is
not.* It would work for a while but the bearings would likely wear out
sooner than later.

I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

On 11/20/2020 12:33 PM, shiggins wrote:
On 11/18/2020 6:27 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2020 5:05 PM, Michael wrote:
This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped
dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71


I highly suspect that he is using a milling machine and not a drill
press.Â* A milling machine is designed for a side load, the typical DP
is not.Â* It would work for a while but the bearings would likely wear
out sooner than later.

I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press.Â* The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

Steve

While a lot of Rockell equipment was pretty good, this unit is at the
lower end of the food chain. I had the same unit, got it as a sales
reward in 1979.

Yes you can do many things as you have pointed out. But should you.
Have you seen the Dremel plunger attachment to turn it into a plunge
router? Think that is a good idea?

On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220

JP

On 11/20/2020 6:21 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/20/2020 12:33 PM, shiggins wrote:
On 11/18/2020 6:27 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2020 5:05 PM, Michael wrote:
This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped
dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71


I highly suspect that he is using a milling machine and not a drill
press.Â* A milling machine is designed for a side load, the typical DP
is not.Â* It would work for a while but the bearings would likely wear
out sooner than later.

I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press.Â* The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I
have used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

Steve

WhileÂ* a lot of Rockell equipment was pretty good, thisÂ* unit is at the
lower end of the food chain.Â* I had the same unit, got it as a sales
reward in 1979.

Yes you can do many things as you have pointed out.Â* But should you.
Have you seen the Dremel plunger attachment to turn it into a plunge
router?Â* Think that is a good idea?

When the 11-280 and similar designs were for sale back in the 60's, most
users were hobbyists that were pinching pennies. There weren't many
routers or shapers in the homeshop. Many users were still making trim
with specialized hand planes. I obtained my 11-280 from one of those
guys when his arthritis got the best of him. He made sure I knew how to
repair the spindle and quill before I took it home. There were all sorts
of attachments for virtually all stationary equipment - and some really
scary **** for handheld tools. If they looked like they wouldn't charge
the price of a finger or two and would do the job just once I might try
them. I am a tool hog but price is still an important consideration.

Steve

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 10:44:24 -0600, shiggins
wrote:

On 11/20/2020 6:21 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/20/2020 12:33 PM, shiggins wrote:
On 11/18/2020 6:27 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2020 5:05 PM, Michael wrote:
This looks like an interesting and functional way to make a stopped
dado. Has anyone tried it?

https://youtu.be/to1YsOjOhv8?t=71


I highly suspect that he is using a milling machine and not a drill
press.Â* A milling machine is designed for a side load, the typical DP
is not.Â* It would work for a while but the bearings would likely wear
out sooner than later.

I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press.Â* The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I
have used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

Steve

WhileÂ* a lot of Rockell equipment was pretty good, thisÂ* unit is at the
lower end of the food chain.Â* I had the same unit, got it as a sales
reward in 1979.

Yes you can do many things as you have pointed out.Â* But should you.
Have you seen the Dremel plunger attachment to turn it into a plunge
router?Â* Think that is a good idea?

When the 11-280 and similar designs were for sale back in the 60's, most
users were hobbyists that were pinching pennies. There weren't many
routers or shapers in the homeshop.

I dunno about that. Shapers sure, but I was into slot car racing at
the time and every description of builting a slot car racing track in
one of the magazines or books included making the slots with a router,
so they were certainly available and expected to be within the means
of a hobbyist with enough space to set up his own slot car track. Note
that my Dad had no clue what a router was.

Many users were still making trim
with specialized hand planes. I obtained my 11-280 from one of those
guys when his arthritis got the best of him. He made sure I knew how to
repair the spindle and quill before I took it home. There were all sorts
of attachments for virtually all stationary equipment - and some really
scary **** for handheld tools. If they looked like they wouldn't charge
the price of a finger or two and would do the job just once I might try
them. I am a tool hog but price is still an important consideration.

Steve

On 11/21/2020 8:12 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220

And you don't suppose Rockwell designed/picked the bearings to handle
suggested uses of the machine?

Plus, they even give instructions on how to replace it.

Come on, now, get real.

--

On Saturday, November 21, 2020 at 12:26:34 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 11/21/2020 8:12 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220
And you don't suppose Rockwell designed/picked the bearings to handle
suggested uses of the machine?

Or, the marketing department stepped in after the machine was already designed.

Marketing team:
"Hey, engineering department, can this machine be used a shaper?"

Engineering team:
"Well, yes, but..."

Marketing team, running out of the room with their fingers in their ears:
"Thanks! That's all we needed to hear."

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 11:26:28 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/21/2020 8:12 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220

And you don't suppose Rockwell designed/picked the bearings to handle
suggested uses of the machine?

Plus, they even give instructions on how to replace it.

Come on, now, get real.

Did anybody tell the engineers the "suggested uses of the machine"?

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 11:26:28 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/21/2020 8:12 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220

And you don't suppose Rockwell designed/picked the bearings to handle
suggested uses of the machine?

Plus, they even give instructions on how to replace it.

Come on, now, get real.

Yes. I have to add that the advice about not using a drill press as a
mill came out of the metalworking industry - think steel.

There really is no reason why a woodworking drill press cannot have
heavier bearings - metalworking precision is not required, so the
bearings are not that expensive. Nor is the stress on the machine
frame all that large.

I would pay attention to how the milling cutter and chuck are held in
the machine. You don't want that to work itself loose.

Joe Gwinn

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 11:26:28 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/21/2020 8:12 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220

And you don't suppose Rockwell designed/picked the bearings to handle
suggested uses of the machine?

No. The mounting is all wrong. No matter what, you're not only
putting a side load but torque on the bearing.

Plus, they even give instructions on how to replace it.

Come on, now, get real.

It is real. You screw up your drill press. Others would rather not.

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 17:25:19 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 11:26:28 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/21/2020 8:12 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220

And you don't suppose Rockwell designed/picked the bearings to handle
suggested uses of the machine?

Plus, they even give instructions on how to replace it.

Come on, now, get real.

Yes. I have to add that the advice about not using a drill press as a
mill came out of the metalworking industry - think steel.

There really is no reason why a woodworking drill press cannot have
heavier bearings - metalworking precision is not required, so the
bearings are not that expensive. Nor is the stress on the machine
frame all that large.

I would pay attention to how the milling cutter and chuck are held in
the machine. You don't want that to work itself loose.

It's not only about routing (not enough speed anyway) but shaping,
sanding and who knows what. Drill presses are not designed to be used
that way.

On Saturday, November 21, 2020 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 11:26:28 -0600, dpb wrote:
On 11/21/2020 8:12 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220

And you don't suppose Rockwell designed/picked the bearings to handle
suggested uses of the machine?

Plus, they even give instructions on how to replace it.

Come on, now, get real.
Yes. I have to add that the advice about not using a drill press as a
mill came out of the metalworking industry - think steel.

There really is no reason why a woodworking drill press cannot have
heavier bearings -

Other than price points. Writing up a manual that lists "shaper" as a
feature costs virtually nothing compared to upgrading the bearings
even a tiny bit. (no pun intended)

metalworking precision is not required, so the
bearings are not that expensive. Nor is the stress on the machine
frame all that large.

I would pay attention to how the milling cutter and chuck are held in
the machine. You don't want that to work itself loose.

Joe Gwinn

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 17:50:55 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 11:26:28 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/21/2020 8:12 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220

And you don't suppose Rockwell designed/picked the bearings to handle
suggested uses of the machine?

No. The mounting is all wrong. No matter what, you're not only
putting a side load but torque on the bearing.

Really? How does that work? How is it different from the loads
imposed by drilling?

Joe Gwinn



Plus, they even give instructions on how to replace it.

Come on, now, get real.

It is real. You screw up your drill press. Others would rather not.

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 19:45:38 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 17:50:55 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 11:26:28 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/21/2020 8:12 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220

And you don't suppose Rockwell designed/picked the bearings to handle
suggested uses of the machine?

No. The mounting is all wrong. No matter what, you're not only
putting a side load but torque on the bearing.

Really? How does that work? How is it different from the loads
imposed by drilling?

You're cutting/shaping/sanding sideways putting torque Against the
side of the bearings. Drilling is a vertical operation and puts no
stress on the side of the bearings/shaft as they were designed. Add
to that the leverage of the length of the /bit/quill/shaft and a it's
significant stress in a way the machinery wasn't designed to operate.

Joe Gwinn



Plus, they even give instructions on how to replace it.

Come on, now, get real.

It is real. You screw up your drill press. Others would rather not.

On Sun, 22 Nov 2020 17:51:07 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 19:45:38 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 17:50:55 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 11:26:28 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/21/2020 8:12 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220

And you don't suppose Rockwell designed/picked the bearings to handle
suggested uses of the machine?

No. The mounting is all wrong. No matter what, you're not only
putting a side load but torque on the bearing.

Really? How does that work? How is it different from the loads
imposed by drilling?

You're cutting/shaping/sanding sideways putting torque Against the
side of the bearings. Drilling is a vertical operation and puts no
stress on the side of the bearings/shaft as they were designed. Add
to that the leverage of the length of the /bit/quill/shaft and a it's
significant stress in a way the machinery wasn't designed to operate.

You are assuming that the manufacturer did not design for these loads
in a machine sold as being able to do just this. Ball bearings are
very strong, and if only woodworking precision under woodworking loads
is needed, quite cheap.

Hmm. I wonder what kind of bearings this Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill
press uses. Google. Seems to be a pair of ball bearings at top and
bottom of the spindle, plus a radial needle thrust bearing at the
bottom. So there is a pair of bearings next to the chuck, and the
ball bearing will handle side loads, while the needle thrust bearing
will handle axial (drilling) loads. So, use for making dados is quite
plausible.

Knowing Delta, these will be comodity bearings, and easily replaced
even today.

The replaceable bearing mentioned by others is for the cone pulley at
the top of the drill press, and is unrelated to side loads on the
drill chuck.

Joe

On Mon, 23 Nov 2020 15:04:18 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Sun, 22 Nov 2020 17:51:07 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 19:45:38 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 17:50:55 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 11:26:28 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/21/2020 8:12 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:45:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
snip
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2952.pdf

This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
when drilling.

I agree. That said, for light duty you could use something like this to minimize the damage...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...m?item=68Z0220

And you don't suppose Rockwell designed/picked the bearings to handle
suggested uses of the machine?

No. The mounting is all wrong. No matter what, you're not only
putting a side load but torque on the bearing.

Really? How does that work? How is it different from the loads
imposed by drilling?

You're cutting/shaping/sanding sideways putting torque Against the
side of the bearings. Drilling is a vertical operation and puts no
stress on the side of the bearings/shaft as they were designed. Add
to that the leverage of the length of the /bit/quill/shaft and a it's
significant stress in a way the machinery wasn't designed to operate.

You are assuming that the manufacturer did not design for these loads
in a machine sold as being able to do just this. Ball bearings are
very strong, and if only woodworking precision under woodworking loads
is needed, quite cheap.

No, I know physics. You're wrong in so many ways.

Hmm. I wonder what kind of bearings this Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill
press uses. Google. Seems to be a pair of ball bearings at top and
bottom of the spindle, plus a radial needle thrust bearing at the
bottom. So there is a pair of bearings next to the chuck, and the
ball bearing will handle side loads, while the needle thrust bearing
will handle axial (drilling) loads. So, use for making dados is quite
plausible.

So what? So does every drill press. They are *NOT* designed to take
a side load. A few mils of wear will ruin a drill press.

Knowing Delta, these will be comodity bearings, and easily replaced
even today.


The replaceable bearing mentioned by others is for the cone pulley at
the top of the drill press, and is unrelated to side loads on the
drill chuck.

Good grief.