I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly
24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple
overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly
won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

A vac blows out the same amount of air it sucks in so no, your proposal is
insufficient.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.

It certainly needs an exhaust hole. If it will be used continuously
for any length of time, I would wonder about it overheating.

--
GW Ross

On 8/25/2017 6:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Unless you intend to open the door when it's running or the hole for the
2" hose is 8" in diameter, my guesstimate is "No!" You're going create
back pressure, just like shoving a potato in an exhaust pipe.

If you really want to put it in a cabinet and cut down noise, I would
experiment with a downward vent or some other form of baffling/muffler
in the cabinet design. First thing that I would try would be to build a
simple box 24" square by 29" high, turn on the vacuum and lower the box
over it, leaving maybe 2" between the bottom of the box and the floor.
If that muffled the sound sufficiently, I would then remove one side of
the box, replace it with the door you describe, and cut my holes for the
hose. Then, instead of just letting the cabinet sit on the floor, I
would attach four legs (simple 2x4's with the tops bevel cut so they
don't act so much as a shelf to catch dust and crap) to the corners of
the box to keep it 2" off the floor. That will provide for a more or
less unrestricted air flow from the vacuum's exhaust.

There are a few other things you could do to accomplish the same thing
and maybe even make it quieter. You want to lengthen the path of the
exhaust flow without restricting it. The bottom line is that "what goes
in, must come out"

On 8/25/2017 7:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.


Volume of air in = volume of air out. If you don't have enough open
space you will make the motor work harder trying to work against the
back pressure, you will lose some efficiency on the suction and will
build up heat in the cabinet. not a big deal for 15 seconds but for a
long time it will be.

Put it in the cabinet to save space but open the door to run it.

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 8:03:28 AM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 8/25/2017 6:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Unless you intend to open the door when it's running or the hole for the
2" hose is 8" in diameter, my guesstimate is "No!" You're going create
back pressure, just like shoving a potato in an exhaust pipe.

An 8" equivalent hole could easily be accomplished with rectangular opening in
the upper portion back of the cabinet. 3" x 24€� would be bigger than a 8" hole
with hose in it. Bigger would be better, but then the noise reduction goes down.


If you really want to put it in a cabinet and cut down noise, I would
experiment with a downward vent or some other form of baffling/muffler
in the cabinet design. First thing that I would try would be to build a
simple box 24" square by 29" high, turn on the vacuum and lower the box
over it, leaving maybe 2" between the bottom of the box and the floor.
If that muffled the sound sufficiently, I would then remove one side of
the box, replace it with the door you describe, and cut my holes for the
hose. Then, instead of just letting the cabinet sit on the floor, I
would attach four legs (simple 2x4's with the tops bevel cut so they
don't act so much as a shelf to catch dust and crap) to the corners of
the box to keep it 2" off the floor. That will provide for a more or
less unrestricted air flow from the vacuum's exhaust.

Seems to me that an opening at the top, where the vac actually exhausts,
would be more efficient than an opening at the bottom. I could even add a
baffle to direct the air out of the top opening so it didn't go straight up to the
top of the cabinet.


There are a few other things you could do to accomplish the same thing
and maybe even make it quieter. You want to lengthen the path of the
exhaust flow without restricting it. The bottom line is that "what goes
in, must come out"

Lengthening the path is not an option. The shop is too small. The vac will go
into a cabinet that I'm building for the miter saw. I actually have a 1.5 gallon
ShopVac in the existing cabinet, but it fills up too quickly and is a pain to empty.
Foam filter, hard to clean, very messy. I'll be building a bigger cabinet to fit the 8
gallon vac.

Leaving the back panel 3" to 4€œ short and leaving a gap between the wall and
the cabinet should work.

Thanks to all.

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 9:48:03 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 8:03:28 AM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 8/25/2017 6:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Unless you intend to open the door when it's running or the hole for the
2" hose is 8" in diameter, my guesstimate is "No!" You're going create
back pressure, just like shoving a potato in an exhaust pipe.

An 8" equivalent hole could easily be accomplished with rectangular opening in
the upper portion back of the cabinet. 3" x 24€� would be bigger than a 8" hole
with hose in it. Bigger would be better, but then the noise reduction goes down.


If you really want to put it in a cabinet and cut down noise, I would
experiment with a downward vent or some other form of baffling/muffler
in the cabinet design. First thing that I would try would be to build a
simple box 24" square by 29" high, turn on the vacuum and lower the box
over it, leaving maybe 2" between the bottom of the box and the floor.
If that muffled the sound sufficiently, I would then remove one side of
the box, replace it with the door you describe, and cut my holes for the
hose. Then, instead of just letting the cabinet sit on the floor, I
would attach four legs (simple 2x4's with the tops bevel cut so they
don't act so much as a shelf to catch dust and crap) to the corners of
the box to keep it 2" off the floor. That will provide for a more or
less unrestricted air flow from the vacuum's exhaust.

Seems to me that an opening at the top, where the vac actually exhausts,
would be more efficient than an opening at the bottom. I could even add a
baffle to direct the air out of the top opening so it didn't go straight up to the
top of the cabinet.


There are a few other things you could do to accomplish the same thing
and maybe even make it quieter. You want to lengthen the path of the
exhaust flow without restricting it. The bottom line is that "what goes
in, must come out"

Lengthening the path is not an option. The shop is too small. The vac will go
into a cabinet that I'm building for the miter saw. I actually have a 1.5 gallon
ShopVac in the existing cabinet, but it fills up too quickly and is a pain to empty.
Foam filter, hard to clean, very messy. I'll be building a bigger cabinet to fit the 8
gallon vac.

Leaving the back panel 3" to 4€œ short and leaving a gap between the wall and
the cabinet should work.

Thanks to all.

You might consider an Oneida dust deputy (or equivalent) to reduce the hassle of emptying the shop vac...
https://www.oneida-air.com/inventory...E06240A24A4%7D

On 8/25/2017 9:05 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/25/2017 7:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet.
Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple
overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet
certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.


Volume of air in = volume of air out.Â* If you don't have enough open space
you will make the motor work harder trying to work against the back
pressure, you will lose some efficiency on the suction and will build up
heat in the cabinet.Â* not a big deal for 15 seconds but for a long time it
will be.

Put it in the cabinet to save space but open the door to run it.

Efficient design could make it work but making the box not much bigger than
the vac precludes that. Make a box of, let's say 3/4" ply, and line it with
sound-absorbing foam (the fire-retardant sort) and make sure that the inner
dimensions are such that there are a few inches of space around each side
of the vac. The exhaust should probably be four to six times the area of
the hose and to minimize the noise it should be in the form of a snorkel
facing downward and lined with the foam too. This should make things nice
and quiet but will mean a lot of work and the result will not be small. Far
better IMHO is to simply buy one of the quieter European vacs and damn the
cost.

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Foam.../dp/B0002ZPLP2

On 8/25/17 6:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet.
Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose and cord will come through a hole
in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet
certainly won't be air tight, but is the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.


If it chokes it down, you know you need a port somewhere.
Personally, I would think the cabinet doors would act like an air check
valve when the vac is on. Meaning the air pressure would push the doors
out a but to let the air out.

You could always make your own one-way vent by putting a hole in the
cabinet and tacking a rubber flap across it. Most cars have this system
somewhere on the vehicle for when the heater/AC blower fan in on. On
pick-ups, it's behind the seats on the back panel wall.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:11:53 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/25/17 6:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet.
Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose and cord will come through a hole
in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet
certainly won't be air tight, but is the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.


If it chokes it down, you know you need a port somewhere.
Personally, I would think the cabinet doors would act like an air check
valve when the vac is on. Meaning the air pressure would push the doors
out a but to let the air out.

That is why I mentioned the simple overlay door. Plywood on a face frame is certainly not going to be airtight. A loose latch would allow it open a little, although more sound will escape. That's
why any opening that I might need would be in the back of cabinet. I'm sure the difference would
be minimal, but just as easy to do, maybe even easier. Just cut the back panel 3-4" short.


You could always make your own one-way vent by putting a hole in the
cabinet and tacking a rubber flap across it. Most cars have this system
somewhere on the vehicle for when the heater/AC blower fan in on. On
pick-ups, it's behind the seats on the back panel wall.

I'm not sure I see the point of that. When the vac is on the flap will open and
the air will escape. When the vac Is off, the flap will close and, well, and *what*?

What would be the advantage of a one-way vent over just an opening in the back to let
the exhaust air escape? What would I be trying to keep out?

DerbyDad03 was heard to mutter:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.
I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.
Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough? Thanks.

Check this...
https://youtu.be/MaE51LmYYP8

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com

On 8/25/17 10:42 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:11:53 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/25/17 6:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a
cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose and cord will come
through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay
style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet
certainly won't be air tight, but is the door and hose hole
enough?

Thanks.


If it chokes it down, you know you need a port somewhere.
Personally, I would think the cabinet doors would act like an air
check valve when the vac is on. Meaning the air pressure would
push the doors out a but to let the air out.

That is why I mentioned the simple overlay door. Plywood on a face
frame is certainly not going to be airtight. A loose latch would
allow it open a little, although more sound will escape. That's why
any opening that I might need would be in the back of cabinet. I'm
sure the difference would be minimal, but just as easy to do, maybe
even easier. Just cut the back panel 3-4" short.


You could always make your own one-way vent by putting a hole in
the cabinet and tacking a rubber flap across it. Most cars have
this system somewhere on the vehicle for when the heater/AC blower
fan in on. On pick-ups, it's behind the seats on the back panel
wall.

I'm not sure I see the point of that. When the vac is on the flap
will open and the air will escape. When the vac Is off, the flap will
close and, well, and *what*?

What would be the advantage of a one-way vent over just an opening in
the back to let the exhaust air escape? What would I be trying to
keep out?



I was thinking of critters and dirt. If you're not concerned with dust,
bugs, and such getting in, then sure, just a hole. Doesn't have to be
big. Like others have said, it only needs to be the size of the exhaust
hole on the vac.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

DerbyDad03 wrote:



What would be the advantage of a one-way vent over just an opening in the back to let
the exhaust air escape?


Cheap aesthetics maybe?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Deflect-o...W-18/205110147

Spalted Walt writes:
DerbyDad03 wrote:



What would be the advantage of a one-way vent over just an opening in the back to let
the exhaust air escape?


Cheap aesthetics maybe?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Deflect-o...W-18/205110147


Or drill two or three 3/4" holes in the back. My electronics cabinet has a number
of these with friction-fit small metal round vents.

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 12:01:29 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/25/17 10:42 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:11:53 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/25/17 6:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a
cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose and cord will come
through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay
style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet
certainly won't be air tight, but is the door and hose hole
enough?

Thanks.


If it chokes it down, you know you need a port somewhere.
Personally, I would think the cabinet doors would act like an air
check valve when the vac is on. Meaning the air pressure would
push the doors out a but to let the air out.

That is why I mentioned the simple overlay door. Plywood on a face
frame is certainly not going to be airtight. A loose latch would
allow it open a little, although more sound will escape. That's why
any opening that I might need would be in the back of cabinet. I'm
sure the difference would be minimal, but just as easy to do, maybe
even easier. Just cut the back panel 3-4" short.


You could always make your own one-way vent by putting a hole in
the cabinet and tacking a rubber flap across it. Most cars have
this system somewhere on the vehicle for when the heater/AC blower
fan in on. On pick-ups, it's behind the seats on the back panel
wall.

I'm not sure I see the point of that. When the vac is on the flap
will open and the air will escape. When the vac Is off, the flap will
close and, well, and *what*?

What would be the advantage of a one-way vent over just an opening in
the back to let the exhaust air escape? What would I be trying to
keep out?



I was thinking of critters and dirt. If you're not concerned with dust,
bugs, and such getting in, then sure, just a hole. Doesn't have to be
big. Like others have said, it only needs to be the size of the exhaust
hole on the vac.

I don't think I'll concern myself with the outside of the vac getting dusty. ;-)

Critters? Like the raccoon that keeps eating the cat food in the garage? So far
he hasn't found my shop.

A short back panel will serve just fine. Thanks again.

On 8/25/2017 12:25 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:


Or drill two or three 3/4" holes in the back. My electronics cabinet has a number
of these with friction-fit small metal round vents.


You need more than that to vent properly. If you have one outlet equal
to the size of the hose, the velocity of the exhaust will be equal to
the velocity of the inlet. Put your hand over the outlet on the vac and
see if a couple of 3/4" holes is enough not to make back pressure.

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:48:22 AM UTC-4, Casper wrote:
DerbyDad03 was heard to mutter:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.
I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.
Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough? Thanks.

Check this...
https://youtu.be/MaE51LmYYP8


Thanks. I like the baffle system. I'll have to see if I can do something like that. I have to be
exact with my height since this is a miter saw cabinet and the saw's table needs to be the
same height as the workbench next to it. I don't know if I have room for the double shelf.

Maybe I can do something on the side.

BTW...his electrical skills suck compared to his woodworker skills. No Romex connector
where the extension cord goes to the switch box and his switch is upside down. No
connector/strain relieve is a dangerous situation.

On 8/25/2017 10:48 AM, Casper wrote:
DerbyDad03 was heard to mutter:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.
I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.
Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough? Thanks.

Check this...
https://youtu.be/MaE51LmYYP8

There you go. Very interesting design. Derby, my thought with the
bottom exhaust was to accomplish this baffling. This is much better.

On 8/25/2017 6:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.



Build the cabinet, add holes later if there is not enough venting.

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 6:26:59 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.

It all depends on where the cabinet is located. If its on an outside wall, vent it like you would a clothes dryer, i.e., run a hose from the "blowing side" through the wall. A small vent to allow for air circulation for cooling the motor and a bit of sound absorbing material and you are home free.

If its on an inside wall, you are pretty much done for. Because you will have to have enough ventilation to cool the motor and enough exhaust capability to keep from seriously cutting into you CFM . You can line the cabinet with sound absorbing material, but all those holes are going to let a lot of noise out.

On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 08:01:50 -0400, G Ross wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.

It certainly needs an exhaust hole. If it will be used continuously
for any length of time, I would wonder about it overheating.

The exhaust hole needs to be much larger than the suction hose or it,
too, will reduce suction. Given enough exhaust area, I don't think
heat would be a problem. These are usually cooled by the exhaust.

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:03:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 08:01:50 -0400, G Ross wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.

It certainly needs an exhaust hole. If it will be used continuously
for any length of time, I would wonder about it overheating.

The exhaust hole needs to be much larger than the suction hose or it,
too, will reduce suction. Given enough exhaust area, I don't think
heat would be a problem. These are usually cooled by the exhaust.

I left the back of the cabinet 1" short of the top. That's a 23 sq in
opening, more than enough. Face frame, door and foam lining will be done
tomorrow. I might have room for one baffle shelf, but definitely not 2.
I'll see how it sounds without it first.

Between the exhaust fan, the router table extension for the table saw
and this dust collection cabinet, I'm spending way too much time working
*on* the shop instead of *in* the shop. ;-)

On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 20:20:25 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:03:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 08:01:50 -0400, G Ross wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.

It certainly needs an exhaust hole. If it will be used continuously
for any length of time, I would wonder about it overheating.

The exhaust hole needs to be much larger than the suction hose or it,
too, will reduce suction. Given enough exhaust area, I don't think
heat would be a problem. These are usually cooled by the exhaust.

I left the back of the cabinet 1" short of the top. That's a 23 sq in
opening, more than enough. Face frame, door and foam lining will be done
tomorrow. I might have room for one baffle shelf, but definitely not 2.
I'll see how it sounds without it first.

Try it with the door open and closed. If there is no difference, you
have enough exhaust opening.

Between the exhaust fan, the router table extension for the table saw
and this dust collection cabinet, I'm spending way too much time working
*on* the shop instead of *in* the shop. ;-)

Unfortunately, I haven't been able to do much of either. :-(

On 8/25/2017 10:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:03:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 08:01:50 -0400, G Ross wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.


[snip]

Between the exhaust fan, the router table extension for the table saw
and this dust collection cabinet, I'm spending way too much time working
*on* the shop instead of *in* the shop. ;-)


Working "on" the shop is an investment that earns time to enjoy the
shop. In the end (unless you're rebuilding after a disaster), it's all
fun. ;-)

On 8/25/2017 7:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.

I built one years ago.
I use it attached to my thien separator and then attached to all my
equipment.
http://imgur.com/a/XuH2l scroll down.
It has a baffle and removes the air, and cuts the noise. Homosote is a
good choice for insulating the noise. I used a carpet rem.

If I did it again, I would put the baffle on top to get rid of the heat
of the vac more easily.

--
Jeff

On 8/25/17 4:13 PM, Leon wrote:
On 8/25/2017 6:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet.
Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a
simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet
certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.



Build the cabinet, add holes later if there is not enough venting.

Yep! My guess is there will be plenty of gap between the doors and the
face frame.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:25:26 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 20:20:25 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:03:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 08:01:50 -0400, G Ross wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.

It certainly needs an exhaust hole. If it will be used continuously
for any length of time, I would wonder about it overheating.

The exhaust hole needs to be much larger than the suction hose or it,
too, will reduce suction. Given enough exhaust area, I don't think
heat would be a problem. These are usually cooled by the exhaust.

I left the back of the cabinet 1" short of the top. That's a 23 sq in
opening, more than enough. Face frame, door and foam lining will be done
tomorrow. I might have room for one baffle shelf, but definitely not 2.
I'll see how it sounds without it first.

Try it with the door open and closed. If there is no difference, you
have enough exhaust opening.

The baffle shelf isn't about the exhaust, it's about the noise. From the
various "baffle videos" I've seen I'm sure 23 sq in is enough for the
exhaust.


Between the exhaust fan, the router table extension for the table saw
and this dust collection cabinet, I'm spending way too much time working
*on* the shop instead of *in* the shop. ;-)

Unfortunately, I haven't been able to do much of either. :-(

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:25:26 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 20:20:25 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:03:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 08:01:50 -0400, G Ross wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.i

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.

It certainly needs an exhaust hole. If it will be used continuously
for any length of time, I would wonder about it overheating.

The exhaust hole needs to be much larger than the suction hose or it,
too, will reduce suction. Given enough exhaust area, I don't think
heat would be a problem. These are usually cooled by the exhaust.

I left the back of the cabinet 1" short of the top. That's a 23 sq in
opening, more than enough. Face frame, door and foam lining will be done
tomorrow. I might have room for one baffle shelf, but definitely not 2.
I'll see how it sounds without it first.

Try it with the door open and closed. If there is no difference, you
have enough exhaust opening.

Oh...wait...was that a joke? Now I get it. ;-)


Between the exhaust fan, the router table extension for the table saw
and this dust collection cabinet, I'm spending way too much time working
*on* the shop instead of *in* the shop. ;-)

Unfortunately, I haven't been able to do much of either. :-(

On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 20:41:49 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:25:26 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 20:20:25 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:03:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 08:01:50 -0400, G Ross wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.

It certainly needs an exhaust hole. If it will be used continuously
for any length of time, I would wonder about it overheating.

The exhaust hole needs to be much larger than the suction hose or it,
too, will reduce suction. Given enough exhaust area, I don't think
heat would be a problem. These are usually cooled by the exhaust.

I left the back of the cabinet 1" short of the top. That's a 23 sq in
opening, more than enough. Face frame, door and foam lining will be done
tomorrow. I might have room for one baffle shelf, but definitely not 2.
I'll see how it sounds without it first.

Try it with the door open and closed. If there is no difference, you
have enough exhaust opening.

The baffle shelf isn't about the exhaust, it's about the noise. From the
various "baffle videos" I've seen I'm sure 23 sq in is enough for the
exhaust.

But the baffle will also inhibit the exhaust. "Trust but verify." ;-)

Between the exhaust fan, the router table extension for the table saw
and this dust collection cabinet, I'm spending way too much time working
*on* the shop instead of *in* the shop. ;-)

Unfortunately, I haven't been able to do much of either. :-(

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 4:26:59 AM UTC-7, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet

Don't. Consider, instead, putting the noisy bit outdoors and plumbing
the intake through a wall. Or just putting it in an
adjacent room. A cabinet will just take up space, make the vacuum
into a bulky fixture, and waste building materials, compared
to (for instance) wearing earplugs.

On Saturday, August 26, 2017 at 3:29:49 PM UTC-4, whit3rd wrote:
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 4:26:59 AM UTC-7, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet

Don't. Consider, instead, putting the noisy bit outdoors and plumbing
the intake through a wall.

That's not really an option. Climate, location of the shop in the house,
and not to mention that if I were my neighbors/SWMBO I wouldn't want to
hear a wet-dry vac turning on and off at random times until late evening.

Or just putting it in an adjacent room.

That's not really an option. Location of the shop in the house, and not
to mention that if I were my SWMBO I wouldn't want to hear a wet-dry vac
turning on and off at random times until late evening.

A cabinet will just take up space, make the vacuum into a bulky fixture...

The cabinet takes up no room when it is used as the base for the miter
saw and *prevents* the vacuum from being a bulky fixture because the vac
takes up no floor space.

...and waste building materials...

One $30 sheet of plywood is the only thing I had to buy. A few pocket screws
and an old foam mattress topper that I had lying around is all I needed. I
actually used up something bulky that's been hanging around in a closet for
years.

...compared to (for instance) wearing earplugs.

It's not just me that has to put up with the noise. At close to 70 dB, the
bare vac can be heard way beyond the confines of my shop. I'll be posting the
results of my sound readings at various points in the projects. Stay tuned.

Not to mention that earplugs inhibit the ability to listen to tunes, etc.

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 7:26:59 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 8 gallon wet-dry vac that I want to put inside a cabinet. Roughly 24" x 24" x 29". The hose
and cord will come through a hole in the side. The door will be a simple overlay style with a latch.

I'm trying to save space but also keep the noise down.

Do I need to add some holes in the back for exhaust? The cabinet certainly won't be air tight, but is
the door and hose hole enough?

Thanks.

I completed the cabinet and ran some sound level checks. Before any one
jumps all over my testing methods, I'll state right up front that all of
my readings are based on the non-verified calibration of my smart phone
sound meter app. The app says to find a "silent" spot and set the dB reading
to between 10 and 20. The initial reading in a basement bathroom before
calibration was 24 db. I set the level to 11 dB and then registered the
same reading in a 2nd floor closet. Therefore, all readings below are
relative to my "control" reading of 11 dB.

I set the smart phone on a firm stand in my shop and took an ambient reading.
In comparison to the 11 dB in the bathroom and closet, I read 16 dB in the
quiet shop. There was some outside noise at the time. All vacuum sound level
readings were taken at a line-of-sight distance of 8'.

Here are the complete test results:

Test environment:

- 3/4" plywood cabinet, 28" H x 24" W x 21" D
- Craftsman 2.0 HP, 8 gallon, wet-dry vacuum
- 1" x 23" opening at top rear of cabinet for exhaust
- Foam lining is an old mattress topper, flat, not egg crate, 1.5" thick. There
is some "egg crate" texture added because of the staple gun.
- The readings were taken with the cabinet was fully lined, i.e. all 6 surfaces.

Sound levels:

- Closet/Bathroom: 11 dB
- Quiet Shop: 16 dB
- Vacuum outside of cabinet: 67 dB
- Vacuum inside of cabinet, no foam, door open: 70 dB (more focused sound?)
- Vacuum inside of cabinet, no foam, door closed: 58 dB
- Vacuum inside of cabinet, foam installed, door open: 65 dB
- Vacuum inside of cabinet, foam installed, door closed: 53 dB

As a relative measure, with music playing comfortably, and ranging between
40 and 45 dB, I was still able to hear it (barely) when the vacuum was
running and the meter showing 53 dB.

Kitchen table, 1 floor above shop:

- Ambient reading: 15 dB
- Vacuum outside of cabinet: 22 dB
- Vacuum inside of cabinet, door closed, foam installed: 17 dB

A note on the foam: I had originally put foam on the underside of the
top of the cabinet, but that barely left 2" of open space above the vacuum.
The foam felt warmer than I liked after about 10 minutes of run time so I
removed it. I think that will help with both air flow and heat build-up.
Removing the foam from the top did not seem to make much difference in the
dB reading but the readings were never rock solid anyway so it's hard to
tell. In any case, I'll opt for safety over slightly less sound attenuation.

As long as heat does not become an issue, I'm happy with the results. Worst
case, there's room for a small fan inside the cabinet.