never bought a radial arm saw but they were once so popular

am sure this has never been discussed here before

guess everyone buys a mitre saw instead but i would take a radial arm
saw if i saw one on the curb


good for large rough lumber

four bys and six bys etc

I don't think anyone is saying a radial arm saw is awful, horrible, terrible, evil. It just doesn't really have much use for the vast majority of people. It does some things very well. As you said, cutting large 4x4, 6x6, big rough lumber. Something very few people do much of. If I owned a sawmill, I would likely have a radial arm saw sitting around because it can cross cut a 24" wide board that is 4 inches thick. But other than a sawmill, who needs that ability? A radial arm saw is good for cross cutting up to about 24" I think. 12" is the most almost anyone needs though. Crosscutting at 90 degrees only. Its not good to adjust the angle to 45 degrees or anything else. Not accurate except at 90 degrees only. Don't think its safe or good at compound cuts either. Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does, except more accurate and easier.

An analogy. Hammers. Compared to air guns. Everyone owns a hammer or many. Cheap and easy to use. But if you go to a professional house building, construction site, you will see few hammers being used. Everyone will have one swinging from their belt. But not using them. Air guns are faster and better for nailing wood together. Take installing trim. An air gun can shoot a 15, 16, 18 gauge nail exactly where you want. Harder to precisely nail with a hammer a little trim nail exactly. Air guns are just better in most cases. But like the radial arm saw, manual winging hammers are needed in some specific situations.



On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 2:09:51 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
never bought a radial arm saw but they were once so popular

am sure this has never been discussed here before

guess everyone buys a mitre saw instead but i would take a radial arm
saw if i saw one on the curb


good for large rough lumber

four bys and six bys etc

On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 12:09:48 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

am sure this has never been discussed here before

To infinite ad nauseam, and all the tangents possible maybe!

On 6/29/2017 3:51 PM, wrote:
Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does, except more accurate and easier.

Well, not dadoes & rabbets.

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On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:49:49 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 6/29/2017 3:51 PM, wrote:
Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does, except more accurate and easier.

Well, not dadoes & rabbets.

The only reason I still have mine around is just for those two reasons. Although I don't know why at this time... I haven't built but a handful of cabinets in the last ten years.

When I did a lot of office/warehouse finish outs they spec'd out "paint grade" cabinets, and it was a snap to dado in the sides for permanent shelf placement. Likewise, turn the motor parallel to he fence and do rabbets.

Unless the fully spec the cabinets, I go to HD and buy their unfinished oak cabs, ready for paint. I take the doors off, spray the carcass, then the doors and reassemble. MUCH cheaper time/labor/material wise than building them from scratch at this point, and the customers are more impressed with getting the color they want than the quality of the cabinets. Besides, if the cabs are a bit flimsy, it is easy enough to reinforce the frames, drawers, etc. as needed.

Guess I should put the saw out to the curb for EC.

Robert

On 6/29/2017 3:12 PM, Markem wrote:
On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 12:09:48 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

am sure this has never been discussed here before

To infinite ad nauseam, and all the tangents possible maybe!


At one time almost as much as the SawStop.

On 6/29/2017 3:12 PM, Markem wrote:
On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 12:09:48 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

am sure this has never been discussed here before

To infinite ad nauseam, and all the tangents possible maybe!

At one time almost as much as the SawStop.

On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 18:13:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 6/29/2017 3:12 PM, Markem wrote:
On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 12:09:48 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

am sure this has never been discussed here before

To infinite ad nauseam, and all the tangents possible maybe!


At one time almost as much as the SawStop.

Gass sucks!

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:09:51 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
never bought a radial arm saw but they were once so popular

am sure this has never been discussed here before

guess everyone buys a mitre saw instead but i would take a radial arm
saw if i saw one on the curb


good for large rough lumber

four bys and six bys etc

They are good for precision cutting of 1/2" and 3/8" steel plate.

Hey, how about a picture!

All 5 pieces of steel for this Soap Box Derby axle mount were cut on a radial
arm saw. Everything from the large triangular piece on the bottom to the small
rectangle on the top. (The piece running horizontal across the image is the
axle)

http://i.imgur.com/JRkBl2y.jpg

You just have to make sure that you keep the sheet of plywood protecting the
wall behind the blade very moist.

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:51:30 PM UTC-4, wrote:

....snip...

Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does,
except more accurate and easier.

....snip...

Not everything. It's pretty hard to cut a 12" wide, 3/8" thick steel plate on
a miter saw. Put a metal cutting blade on radial arm saw and make multiple
passes, increasing the depth of cut each time. It takes time, but if the
plate is properly secured and you have a lot of patience, you can make some
extremely accurate cuts.

Try cutting the steel for this on miter saw.

http://i.imgur.com/JRkBl2y.jpg

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 9:02:17 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:51:30 PM UTC-4, wrote:

...snip...

Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does,
except more accurate and easier.

...snip...

Not everything. It's pretty hard to cut a 12" wide, 3/8" thick steel plate on
a miter saw.


I cut metal with a hacksaw, jigsaw, or reciprocating saw. Its also possible to cut on a table saw. Just put the metal cutting, grinder blade on it and run the metal against the fence.

Several people have mentioned cutting dadoes and rabbets on the radial arm saw. I've heard that is deadly and dangerous. Not something I would want to do when I have a nice table saw to safely cut dadoes and rabbets.

The radial arm saw can do lots of things. You can rip on the radial arm saw too! It just doesn't do much well. Its mediocre and/or dangerous for many of the things it does.








Put a metal cutting blade on radial arm saw and make multiple
passes, increasing the depth of cut each time. It takes time, but if the
plate is properly secured and you have a lot of patience, you can make some
extremely accurate cuts.

Try cutting the steel for this on miter saw.

http://i.imgur.com/JRkBl2y.jpg

On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 19:28:34 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 9:02:17 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:51:30 PM UTC-4, wrote:

...snip...

Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does,
except more accurate and easier.

...snip...

Not everything. It's pretty hard to cut a 12" wide, 3/8" thick steel plate on
a miter saw.


I cut metal with a hacksaw, jigsaw, or reciprocating saw. Its also possible to cut on a table saw. Just put the metal cutting, grinder blade on it and run the metal against the fence.

Several people have mentioned cutting dadoes and rabbets on the radial arm saw. I've heard that is deadly and dangerous. Not something I would want to do when I have a nice table saw to safely cut dadoes and rabbets.

These cuts aren't dangerous because the blade can't be pinched. It's
rips that are dangerous (crosscuts much less so).

The radial arm saw can do lots of things. You can rip on the radial arm saw too! It just doesn't do much well. Its mediocre and/or dangerous for many of the things it does.








Put a metal cutting blade on radial arm saw and make multiple
passes, increasing the depth of cut each time. It takes time, but if the
plate is properly secured and you have a lot of patience, you can make some
extremely accurate cuts.

Try cutting the steel for this on miter saw.

http://i.imgur.com/JRkBl2y.jpg

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 10:28:39 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 9:02:17 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:51:30 PM UTC-4, wrote:

...snip...

Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does,
except more accurate and easier.

...snip...

Not everything. It's pretty hard to cut a 12" wide, 3/8" thick steel plate on
a miter saw.


I cut metal with a hacksaw, jigsaw, or reciprocating saw. Its also possible to cut on a table saw. Just put the metal cutting, grinder blade on it and run the metal against the fence.

Look at the edges on the pieces of steel shown in the image I posted. Do
you really think you could produce an edge like that on a 3/8" thick
plate with hacksaw, jigsaw, or reciprocating saw? Would you really try to
cut pieces that small on a table saw?

There is no way you could produce those results with any of the tools you've
mentioned.

Besides, your claim was that "Miter saws and sliding miter saws do
everything the radial arm saw does, except more accurate and easier."

Bull. They can't do this:

http://i.imgur.com/JRkBl2y.jpg

Electric Comet wrote in newsj3j2q$fi1$2
@dont-email.me:

never bought a radial arm saw but they were once so popular

am sure this has never been discussed here before

guess everyone buys a mitre saw instead but i would take a radial arm
saw if i saw one on the curb


good for large rough lumber

four bys and six bys etc

Here's the problem: They can't be made cheap. A RAS can be a very useful
addition to a shop, but you've got to buy a good one. The SCMS or even CMS
can be made at a sub-200 price point and give "good enough" cuts, while a
cheap RAS will never hold its settings.

My RAS is an old DeWalt I've tuned up and it's the most accurate saw in the
shop.

These saws are easy to use incorrectly--do you start with the wood trapped
between blade and fence and push the sawblade away from you? I saw people
advocating that method on an internet discussion (I know, Bon Jour!).
Positive or negative hook blade? When do you lock the carriage?

When something brown shorts worthy happens on a RAS (and I'm not talking
about the UPS man), what usually occurs?

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:51:30 PM UTC-4, wrote:

...snip...

Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does,
except more accurate and easier.

...snip...

Not everything. It's pretty hard to cut a 12" wide, 3/8" thick steel plate on
a miter saw. Put a metal cutting blade on radial arm saw and make multiple
passes, increasing the depth of cut each time. It takes time, but if the
plate is properly secured and you have a lot of patience, you can make some
extremely accurate cuts.

Try cutting the steel for this on miter saw.

http://i.imgur.com/JRkBl2y.jpg


Or try cutting dado's, or mounting a molding cutter, or do some horizontal
boring, or. Ripping a board with a miter or sliding miter saw. I have
done all of the above when I had a RAS.

On 6/29/2017 11:02 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in newsj3j2q$fi1$2
@dont-email.me:



[snip]

good for large rough lumber

four bys and six bys etc

Here's the problem: They can't be made cheap. A RAS can be a very useful
addition to a shop, but you've got to buy a good one. The SCMS or even CMS
can be made at a sub-200 price point and give "good enough" cuts, while a
cheap RAS will never hold its settings.

My RAS is an old DeWalt I've tuned up and it's the most accurate saw in the
shop.

That's it in a nutshell. A GOOD RAS that's been accurately
tuned/adjusted is a marvelous tool that can do just about anything to a
piece of wood that needs to be done (save for breaking down a a large
panel into something manageable, but that's why we have circular saws)

I've got an old Craftsman (ca 1968-69) that is a gem. Built cabinets,
furniture, remodeling and new construction with it for years before
finally landing a deal on a Jet Cabinet saw. Still have and
occasionally use the RAS.


These saws are easy to use incorrectly--do you start with the wood trapped
between blade and fence and push the sawblade away from you? I saw people
advocating that method on an internet discussion (I know, Bon Jour!).
Positive or negative hook blade? When do you lock the carriage?

Seen folks advocating that push to cut as well. Scary. I always pull
it through the cut and so long as you are bright enough to realize that
the blade will have a tendency to "help" itself through the cut and work
to counteract that, you're fine. If you aren't smart enough to realize
it, then maybe you should find another hobby.


When something brown shorts worthy happens on a RAS (and I'm not talking
about the UPS man), what usually occurs?

I know, but I'm not sure how to post blade jammed and motor cooking off.
;-)

On Fri, 30 Jun 2017 06:36:18 -0500, Leon wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:51:30 PM UTC-4, wrote:

...snip...

Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does,
except more accurate and easier.

...snip...

Not everything. It's pretty hard to cut a 12" wide, 3/8" thick steel plate on
a miter saw. Put a metal cutting blade on radial arm saw and make multiple
passes, increasing the depth of cut each time. It takes time, but if the
plate is properly secured and you have a lot of patience, you can make some
extremely accurate cuts.

Try cutting the steel for this on miter saw.

http://i.imgur.com/JRkBl2y.jpg


Or try cutting dado's, or mounting a molding cutter, or do some horizontal
boring, or. Ripping a board with a miter or sliding miter saw. I have
done all of the above when I had a RAS.
You just need a GOOD Radial Arm Saw, and there was a LOT of JUNK
sold as Radial Arm Saws. I had a cheap Craftsman round arm and I
smashed it up before putting it on the ketrb. A good De-Walt, or even
the expensive craftsman, is a TOTALLY different animal. My neighbour's
old dewalt is extremely accurate, but ever since he had the motor
rewound, if it gets overloaded it reverses, and kicks the work out of
the saw - which DOES make it dangerous!!

wrote in message
...

I don't think anyone is saying a radial arm saw is awful, horrible,
terrible, evil.

*** No only a Delta RAS is awful, horrible, terrible & evil. Most others
are fine within their power and size specifications.

On 6/30/2017 10:54 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 30 Jun 2017 06:36:18 -0500, Leon wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:51:30 PM UTC-4, wrote:

...snip...

Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does,
except more accurate and easier.

...snip...

Not everything. It's pretty hard to cut a 12" wide, 3/8" thick steel plate on
a miter saw. Put a metal cutting blade on radial arm saw and make multiple
passes, increasing the depth of cut each time. It takes time, but if the
plate is properly secured and you have a lot of patience, you can make some
extremely accurate cuts.

Try cutting the steel for this on miter saw.

http://i.imgur.com/JRkBl2y.jpg


Or try cutting dado's, or mounting a molding cutter, or do some horizontal
boring, or. Ripping a board with a miter or sliding miter saw. I have
done all of the above when I had a RAS.
You just need a GOOD Radial Arm Saw, and there was a LOT of JUNK
sold as Radial Arm Saws. I had a cheap Craftsman round arm and I
smashed it up before putting it on the ketrb. A good De-Walt, or even
the expensive craftsman, is a TOTALLY different animal.

I actually did all of the above with a Craftsman RAS, new 1979 ish.


My neighbour's
old dewalt is extremely accurate, but ever since he had the motor
rewound, if it gets overloaded it reverses, and kicks the work out of
the saw - which DOES make it dangerous!!


Crap!

In article ,
says...

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 9:02:17 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:51:30 PM UTC-4, wrote:

...snip...

Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does,
except more accurate and easier.

...snip...

Not everything. It's pretty hard to cut a 12" wide, 3/8" thick steel plate on
a miter saw.


I cut metal with a hacksaw, jigsaw, or reciprocating saw. Its also possible to cut on a table saw. Just put the metal cutting, grinder blade on it and run the metal against the fence.

Several people have mentioned cutting dadoes and rabbets on the radial arm saw. I've heard that is deadly and dangerous.

Heard from who? Do you own one yourself? Have you ever? If not then
perhaps you shouldn't be arguing with people who do.

Not something I would want to do when I have a nice table saw to safely
cut dadoes and rabbets.

The radial arm saw can do lots of things. You can rip on the radial arm saw too! It just doesn't do much well. Its mediocre and/or dangerous for many of the things it does.

Based on what experience?

On Fri, 30 Jun 2017 20:15:30 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 9:02:17 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:51:30 PM UTC-4, wrote:

...snip...

Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does,
except more accurate and easier.

...snip...

Not everything. It's pretty hard to cut a 12" wide, 3/8" thick steel plate on
a miter saw.


I cut metal with a hacksaw, jigsaw, or reciprocating saw. Its also possible to cut on a table saw. Just put the metal cutting, grinder blade on it and run the metal against the fence.

Several people have mentioned cutting dadoes and rabbets on the radial arm saw. I've heard that is deadly and dangerous.

Heard from who? Do you own one yourself? Have you ever? If not then
perhaps you shouldn't be arguing with people who do.

Not something I would want to do when I have a nice table saw to safely
cut dadoes and rabbets.

The radial arm saw can do lots of things. You can rip on the radial arm saw too! It just doesn't do much well. Its mediocre and/or dangerous for many of the things it does.

Based on what experience?
If I could only have ONE power woodworking tool it would be the best
radial arm saw I could get my hands on, with all the attachments
available for it.

On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 12:51:25 -0700 (PDT)
" wrote:

I don't think anyone is saying a radial arm saw is awful, horrible,

most tools that get a bad rap are due to usage by the uninitiated

one has to be in physical control of the radial arm saw or it will
grab

cut speed has to be controlled manually and that has surprised a
few people i am sure

terrible, evil. It just doesn't really have much use for the vast
majority of people. It does some things very well. As you said,
cutting large 4x4, 6x6, big rough lumber. Something very few people
do much of. If I owned a sawmill, I would likely have a radial arm
saw sitting around because it can cross cut a 24" wide board that is
4 inches thick. But other than a sawmill, who needs that ability? A
radial arm saw is good for cross cutting up to about 24" I think.
12" is the most almost anyone needs though. Crosscutting at 90
degrees only. Its not good to adjust the angle to 45 degrees or

there were some higher end radial arm saws that did well with angles
usually larger too like 14 or 16 inch saws

anything else. Not accurate except at 90 degrees only. Don't think
its safe or good at compound cuts either. Miter saws and sliding
miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does, except more
accurate and easier.

blade technology also makes a big difference
first time i used a freud on the skilsaw it really felt like a
different saw

hammer a little trim nail exactly. Air guns are just better in most
cases. But like the radial arm saw, manual winging hammers are
needed in some specific situations.

something about hammering nails sometimes it is just fun

but palm nailers and air guns are a lot of fun too

hammers will always be around but looks like fewer and fewer choices
if you want a radial arm saw

On Mon, 3 Jul 2017 19:44:34 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 12:51:25 -0700 (PDT)
" wrote:

I don't think anyone is saying a radial arm saw is awful, horrible,

most tools that get a bad rap are due to usage by the uninitiated

No, it's due to the intrinsic danger. These tools *are* dangerous.

one has to be in physical control of the radial arm saw or it will
grab

Not unless something goes wrong. If it does...

cut speed has to be controlled manually and that has surprised a
few people i am sure

Really? Tables saws are automatic? Bandsaws are automatic? Really?

terrible, evil. It just doesn't really have much use for the vast
majority of people. It does some things very well. As you said,
cutting large 4x4, 6x6, big rough lumber. Something very few people
do much of. If I owned a sawmill, I would likely have a radial arm
saw sitting around because it can cross cut a 24" wide board that is
4 inches thick. But other than a sawmill, who needs that ability? A
radial arm saw is good for cross cutting up to about 24" I think.
12" is the most almost anyone needs though. Crosscutting at 90
degrees only. Its not good to adjust the angle to 45 degrees or

there were some higher end radial arm saws that did well with angles
usually larger too like 14 or 16 inch saws

anything else. Not accurate except at 90 degrees only. Don't think
its safe or good at compound cuts either. Miter saws and sliding
miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does, except more
accurate and easier.

blade technology also makes a big difference
first time i used a freud on the skilsaw it really felt like a
different saw

hammer a little trim nail exactly. Air guns are just better in most
cases. But like the radial arm saw, manual winging hammers are
needed in some specific situations.

something about hammering nails sometimes it is just fun

but palm nailers and air guns are a lot of fun too

hammers will always be around but looks like fewer and fewer choices
if you want a radial arm saw

You can thank the snowflakes. Remember, Radial Arm Saws are known to
cause cancer.

On 7/3/2017 9:54 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jul 2017 19:44:34 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

[snip]

hammers will always be around but looks like fewer and fewer choices
if you want a radial arm saw

You can thank the snowflakes. Remember, Radial Arm Saws are known to
cause cancer.

But only when used to saw wood and wood byproducts over a long period of
time without using a HAZMAT suit and breathing apparatus.

Hell, even the Saw Stop carries a risk of cancer. Haven't you read
about the potential heath risks of nitrates in those hot dogs they cut up?

;-)

On Mon, 3 Jul 2017 22:18:17 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

On 7/3/2017 9:54 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jul 2017 19:44:34 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

[snip]

hammers will always be around but looks like fewer and fewer choices
if you want a radial arm saw

You can thank the snowflakes. Remember, Radial Arm Saws are known to
cause cancer.

But only when used to saw wood and wood byproducts over a long period of
time without using a HAZMAT suit and breathing apparatus.

Hell, even the Saw Stop carries a risk of cancer. Haven't you read
about the potential heath risks of nitrates in those hot dogs they cut up?

;-)

Don't expect to live long if you eat one, either.

On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 12:51:25 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I don't think anyone is saying a radial arm saw is awful, horrible, terrible, evil. It just doesn't really have much use for the vast majority of people. It does some things very well. As you said, cutting large 4x4, 6x6, big rough lumber. Something very few people do much of. If I owned a sawmill, I would likely have a radial arm saw sitting around because it can cross cut a 24" wide board that is 4 inches thick. But other than a sawmill, who needs that ability? A radial arm saw is good for cross cutting up to about 24" I think. 12" is the most almost anyone needs though. Crosscutting at 90 degrees only. Its not good to adjust the angle to 45 degrees or anything else. Not accurate except at 90 degrees only. Don't think its safe or good at compound cuts either. Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does, except more accurate and easier.

Try making a bowl with a miter saw. Try making a 1.5" x .75" X 10"
stick with a miter saw. Yeah, there is a bunch of things to do with a
radial arm saw.

And accuracy is the job of the user to determine.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 19:28:34 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 9:02:17 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:51:30 PM UTC-4, wrote:

...snip...

Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does,
except more accurate and easier.

...snip...

Not everything. It's pretty hard to cut a 12" wide, 3/8" thick steel plate on
a miter saw.


I cut metal with a hacksaw, jigsaw, or reciprocating saw. Its also possible to cut on a table saw. Just put the metal cutting, grinder blade on it and run the metal against the fence.

Several people have mentioned cutting dadoes and rabbets on the radial arm saw. I've heard that is deadly and dangerous. Not something I would want to do when I have a nice table saw to safely cut dadoes and rabbets.

The radial arm saw can do lots of things. You can rip on the radial arm saw too! It just doesn't do much well. Its mediocre and/or dangerous for many of the things it does.

Actually the miter/chop saw is just as dangerous.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Mon, 3 Jul 2017 22:18:17 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

On 7/3/2017 9:54 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jul 2017 19:44:34 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

[snip]

hammers will always be around but looks like fewer and fewer choices
if you want a radial arm saw

You can thank the snowflakes. Remember, Radial Arm Saws are known to
cause cancer.

But only when used to saw wood and wood byproducts over a long period of
time without using a HAZMAT suit and breathing apparatus.

Hell, even the Saw Stop carries a risk of cancer. Haven't you read
about the potential heath risks of nitrates in those hot dogs they cut up?

;-)


ROTFL, You owe me a new screen protector. Don't forget the ozone that
the motor puts out.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 15:34:12 -0700, OFWW
wrote:

On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 19:28:34 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 9:02:17 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 3:51:30 PM UTC-4, wrote:

...snip...

Miter saws and sliding miter saws do everything the radial arm saw does,
except more accurate and easier.

...snip...

Not everything. It's pretty hard to cut a 12" wide, 3/8" thick steel plate on
a miter saw.


I cut metal with a hacksaw, jigsaw, or reciprocating saw. Its also possible to cut on a table saw. Just put the metal cutting, grinder blade on it and run the metal against the fence.

Several people have mentioned cutting dadoes and rabbets on the radial arm saw. I've heard that is deadly and dangerous. Not something I would want to do when I have a nice table saw to safely cut dadoes and rabbets.

The radial arm saw can do lots of things. You can rip on the radial arm saw too! It just doesn't do much well. Its mediocre and/or dangerous for many of the things it does.

Actually the miter/chop saw is just as dangerous.

Not at all. They don't come to get you.