On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 22:54:35 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote:

What is your definition of set ?

http://www.blackburntools.com/articl...try/index.html

See the last page or so.

Since I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that you're trolling, I won't
be responding to this thread any more. If you're not trolling, and live
in a universe where "set" means what you say it means, and not what the
rest of the universe says it means, more power to you.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

Trolling - see if you have 20+ years in the group I suspect I have more.

Now look at Cut 10 figure 23 rip teeth. Notice the non-diamond shape
and the slight bend. That isn't set to my thinking - I quote from the
article by Isaac Smith:

"Set varies from none in saws that are heavily taper ground and used in
dry hardwoods, to a hundredth of an inch or more in coarse saws used in
wet woods."

I don't cut much green wood with a hand saw. Double Buck yes. Hardwoods
and dry has "None to a hundred of an inch" None for hardwoods and
hundred of an inch for green wood.

Thanks for the facts that you don't seem to read. Look below figure 24.
And then the example figure 25.

None means ZERO(0).

The pictures have to show something to show the measurement area.

Martin

On 6/8/2016 5:20 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 22:54:35 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote:

What is your definition of set ?

http://www.blackburntools.com/articl...try/index.html

See the last page or so.

Since I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that you're trolling, I won't
be responding to this thread any more. If you're not trolling, and live
in a universe where "set" means what you say it means, and not what the
rest of the universe says it means, more power to you.

On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 00:10:25 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Trolling - see if you have 20+ years in the group I suspect I have more.

Now look at Cut 10 figure 23 rip teeth. Notice the non-diamond shape
and the slight bend. That isn't set to my thinking - I quote from the
article by Isaac Smith:

"Set varies from none in saws that are heavily taper ground and used in
dry hardwoods, to a hundredth of an inch or more in coarse saws used in
wet woods."

I don't cut much green wood with a hand saw. Double Buck yes. Hardwoods
and dry has "None to a hundred of an inch" None for hardwoods and
hundred of an inch for green wood.

Thanks for the facts that you don't seem to read. Look below figure 24.
And then the example figure 25.

None means ZERO(0).

The pictures have to show something to show the measurement area.

Martin

Figure 24 quite clearly shows set in a ripsaw in the link below, i
have already provided details of manuals showing set in ripsaws , if
you look on the disstons archives it quite clearly shows ripsaws
have set.

Disstons produced one ripsaw for a very short time designed to cut
dry hardwood without set, it was discontinued, although it was an
excellent saw tradesmen found by putting a set on it aactually
performed far better.

Heavily taper ground rip saws although experimented with never
really found favour , they where in general heavier gauge steel to
facilitate the heavy taper needed to accommodate free movement
through the timber, couldn't cope well with resin or sap and still
had issues with binding, hence the reason Disstons dropped the 120
from its line, its use unless set was extremely limited.

Its quite clear your assertion that ripsaws were not set is wrong
conformed by your own evidence.

No one has denied that some manufacturers experimented with no set
ripsaws , however the end result was they were usually discontinued
after a very short time because of the limited use.











On 6/8/2016 5:20 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 22:54:35 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote:

What is your definition of set ?

http://www.blackburntools.com/articl...try/index.html

See the last page or so.

Since I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that you're trolling, I won't
be responding to this thread any more. If you're not trolling, and live
in a universe where "set" means what you say it means, and not what the
rest of the universe says it means, more power to you.

Martin Eastburn wrote in news:lT66z.22517
:

"Set varies from none in saws that are heavily taper ground"

You seem to be the one that isn't reading. See those words
"heavily taper ground". Those are the only handsaws without
set, and those are to all intents and purposes non-existant
(I doubt any have been made since before WW2).

John

You are looking at green or almost green pine. That needs some set.

If you are cutting hardwood, walnut, Oak, etc NONE is the word in the
sentence. See the QUOTE - that is letter to letter from Isaac Smith.

Martin

On 6/9/2016 2:01 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 00:10:25 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Trolling - see if you have 20+ years in the group I suspect I have more.

Now look at Cut 10 figure 23 rip teeth. Notice the non-diamond shape
and the slight bend. That isn't set to my thinking - I quote from the
article by Isaac Smith:

"Set varies from none in saws that are heavily taper ground and used in
dry hardwoods, to a hundredth of an inch or more in coarse saws used in
wet woods."

I don't cut much green wood with a hand saw. Double Buck yes. Hardwoods
and dry has "None to a hundred of an inch" None for hardwoods and
hundred of an inch for green wood.

Thanks for the facts that you don't seem to read. Look below figure 24.
And then the example figure 25.

None means ZERO(0).

The pictures have to show something to show the measurement area.

Martin

Figure 24 quite clearly shows set in a ripsaw in the link below, i
have already provided details of manuals showing set in ripsaws , if
you look on the disstons archives it quite clearly shows ripsaws
have set.

Disstons produced one ripsaw for a very short time designed to cut
dry hardwood without set, it was discontinued, although it was an
excellent saw tradesmen found by putting a set on it aactually
performed far better.

Heavily taper ground rip saws although experimented with never
really found favour , they where in general heavier gauge steel to
facilitate the heavy taper needed to accommodate free movement
through the timber, couldn't cope well with resin or sap and still
had issues with binding, hence the reason Disstons dropped the 120
from its line, its use unless set was extremely limited.

Its quite clear your assertion that ripsaws were not set is wrong
conformed by your own evidence.

No one has denied that some manufacturers experimented with no set
ripsaws , however the end result was they were usually discontinued
after a very short time because of the limited use.











On 6/8/2016 5:20 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 22:54:35 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote:

What is your definition of set ?

http://www.blackburntools.com/articl...try/index.html

See the last page or so.

Since I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that you're trolling, I won't
be responding to this thread any more. If you're not trolling, and live
in a universe where "set" means what you say it means, and not what the
rest of the universe says it means, more power to you.

Those are the saws that are used on Hardwoods. How many of you
use a handsaw on hardwood ? Most use it on pine or sometimes ply.
Fur and Pine are not hardwoods.
If you have a lower cost saw it is for construction. If you have an
expensive saw it is for hardwood or both.

Martin

On 6/9/2016 9:34 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Martin Eastburn wrote in news:lT66z.22517
:

"Set varies from none in saws that are heavily taper ground"

You seem to be the one that isn't reading. See those words
"heavily taper ground". Those are the only handsaws without
set, and those are to all intents and purposes non-existant
(I doubt any have been made since before WW2).

John

On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 22:03:38 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

You are looking at green or almost green pine. That needs some set.

If you are cutting hardwood, walnut, Oak, etc NONE is the word in the
sentence. See the QUOTE - that is letter to letter from Isaac Smith.

Martin

It also states on heavily taper ground saw plates .

I don't know any saw manufacturer in the western world that produces
as a stock item mass produced ripsaws without set of some kind







On 6/9/2016 2:01 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 00:10:25 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Trolling - see if you have 20+ years in the group I suspect I have more.

Now look at Cut 10 figure 23 rip teeth. Notice the non-diamond shape
and the slight bend. That isn't set to my thinking - I quote from the
article by Isaac Smith:

"Set varies from none in saws that are heavily taper ground and used in
dry hardwoods, to a hundredth of an inch or more in coarse saws used in
wet woods."

I don't cut much green wood with a hand saw. Double Buck yes. Hardwoods
and dry has "None to a hundred of an inch" None for hardwoods and
hundred of an inch for green wood.

Thanks for the facts that you don't seem to read. Look below figure 24.
And then the example figure 25.

None means ZERO(0).

The pictures have to show something to show the measurement area.

Martin

Figure 24 quite clearly shows set in a ripsaw in the link below, i
have already provided details of manuals showing set in ripsaws , if
you look on the disstons archives it quite clearly shows ripsaws
have set.

Disstons produced one ripsaw for a very short time designed to cut
dry hardwood without set, it was discontinued, although it was an
excellent saw tradesmen found by putting a set on it aactually
performed far better.

Heavily taper ground rip saws although experimented with never
really found favour , they where in general heavier gauge steel to
facilitate the heavy taper needed to accommodate free movement
through the timber, couldn't cope well with resin or sap and still
had issues with binding, hence the reason Disstons dropped the 120
from its line, its use unless set was extremely limited.

Its quite clear your assertion that ripsaws were not set is wrong
conformed by your own evidence.

No one has denied that some manufacturers experimented with no set
ripsaws , however the end result was they were usually discontinued
after a very short time because of the limited use.











On 6/8/2016 5:20 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 22:54:35 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote:

What is your definition of set ?

http://www.blackburntools.com/articl...try/index.html

See the last page or so.

Since I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that you're trolling, I won't
be responding to this thread any more. If you're not trolling, and live
in a universe where "set" means what you say it means, and not what the
rest of the universe says it means, more power to you.

On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 22:05:48 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Those are the saws that are used on Hardwoods. How many of you
use a handsaw on hardwood ? Most use it on pine or sometimes ply.
Fur and Pine are not hardwoods.
If you have a lower cost saw it is for construction. If you have an
expensive saw it is for hardwood or both.

Martin


Many Hardwoods are actually far more resinous and softer than some
softwoods

Oak, Elm, Teak will not cut without set infact most hardwoods won't
unless your using timber that has a moisture content below 10%

In years gone by it was rare to see timber off the rack hitting those
levels as all timber was air dried

Most seasoned timbers came into the shop around 15 to 22%

Infact it was common practice to cut up your sections straighten
and square them off then leave them in the building you were working
on for a couple of months before you worked them .

The only exception was the old cabinet makers shops who would have a
fire going year round , but the sections they used were small in
comparison to general construction / joinery.

Martin Eastburn wrote in news:w8q6z.11518
:

Those are the saws that are used on Hardwoods. How many of you
use a handsaw on hardwood ? Most use it on pine or sometimes ply.


What? I think I agree with Larry, you're just making absurd
statements to troll the group.

Of course I use a handsaw on hardwoods. So, I'm guessing, does
everyone else in the group (you, perhaps, excepted). This is
a group for cabinetry after all, not carpentry.

Offhand I can't recall ever using a handsaw on ply.

John

On Fri, 10 Jun 2016 13:37:31 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Martin Eastburn wrote in news:w8q6z.11518
:

Those are the saws that are used on Hardwoods. How many of you
use a handsaw on hardwood ? Most use it on pine or sometimes ply.


What? I think I agree with Larry, you're just making absurd
statements to troll the group.

Of course I use a handsaw on hardwoods. So, I'm guessing, does
everyone else in the group (you, perhaps, excepted). This is
a group for cabinetry after all, not carpentry.

Offhand I can't recall ever using a handsaw on ply.

John

He is arguing about a specific saw that was marketed by disston for
a very short period of time, suitable for one purpose fine
accurate cuts in thin stock, if he bothered to check on the disston
website , it also states that many tradesmen actually added set to the
saw.

This was one of the reasons why it got dropped , although a fantastic
product its market was limited as other saws were just as good but
serviced a larger section of he marketplace.

The manufacturing process for sawblades in the 1800s couldnt produce
the fine grade steel with suitable tensile strength , blades were
generally a lot thicker than they are today to take out the whip .

I haven't seen a ripsaw in a hardware store in 40 years.
I suppose you could buy one on line. But having a ground saw isn't
that uncommon. They do that on table saw blades and other products.

Martin

On 6/10/2016 3:37 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 22:03:38 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

You are looking at green or almost green pine. That needs some set.

If you are cutting hardwood, walnut, Oak, etc NONE is the word in the
sentence. See the QUOTE - that is letter to letter from Isaac Smith.

Martin

It also states on heavily taper ground saw plates .

I don't know any saw manufacturer in the western world that produces
as a stock item mass produced ripsaws without set of some kind







On 6/9/2016 2:01 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 00:10:25 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Trolling - see if you have 20+ years in the group I suspect I have more.

Now look at Cut 10 figure 23 rip teeth. Notice the non-diamond shape
and the slight bend. That isn't set to my thinking - I quote from the
article by Isaac Smith:

"Set varies from none in saws that are heavily taper ground and used in
dry hardwoods, to a hundredth of an inch or more in coarse saws used in
wet woods."

I don't cut much green wood with a hand saw. Double Buck yes. Hardwoods
and dry has "None to a hundred of an inch" None for hardwoods and
hundred of an inch for green wood.

Thanks for the facts that you don't seem to read. Look below figure 24.
And then the example figure 25.

None means ZERO(0).

The pictures have to show something to show the measurement area.

Martin

Figure 24 quite clearly shows set in a ripsaw in the link below, i
have already provided details of manuals showing set in ripsaws , if
you look on the disstons archives it quite clearly shows ripsaws
have set.

Disstons produced one ripsaw for a very short time designed to cut
dry hardwood without set, it was discontinued, although it was an
excellent saw tradesmen found by putting a set on it aactually
performed far better.

Heavily taper ground rip saws although experimented with never
really found favour , they where in general heavier gauge steel to
facilitate the heavy taper needed to accommodate free movement
through the timber, couldn't cope well with resin or sap and still
had issues with binding, hence the reason Disstons dropped the 120
from its line, its use unless set was extremely limited.

Its quite clear your assertion that ripsaws were not set is wrong
conformed by your own evidence.

No one has denied that some manufacturers experimented with no set
ripsaws , however the end result was they were usually discontinued
after a very short time because of the limited use.











On 6/8/2016 5:20 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 22:54:35 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote:

What is your definition of set ?

http://www.blackburntools.com/articl...try/index.html

See the last page or so.

Since I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that you're trolling, I won't
be responding to this thread any more. If you're not trolling, and live
in a universe where "set" means what you say it means, and not what the
rest of the universe says it means, more power to you.

So you are an old school wood worker and are without a table saw,
bandsaw (sliding table naturally) or any power tools.

I use a saw to touch up and do small work. I don't work myself to
death sawing a lot of wood by hand. I use my mind not my back.

Martin

On 6/10/2016 8:37 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Martin Eastburn wrote in news:w8q6z.11518
:

Those are the saws that are used on Hardwoods. How many of you
use a handsaw on hardwood ? Most use it on pine or sometimes ply.


What? I think I agree with Larry, you're just making absurd
statements to troll the group.

Of course I use a handsaw on hardwoods. So, I'm guessing, does
everyone else in the group (you, perhaps, excepted). This is
a group for cabinetry after all, not carpentry.

Offhand I can't recall ever using a handsaw on ply.

John

In article ,
says...

I haven't seen a ripsaw in a hardware store in 40 years.
I suppose you could buy one on line. But having a ground saw isn't
that uncommon. They do that on table saw blades and other products.

Fine, Martin, since you're the world's expert on saws, tell us where to
get a taper ground handsaw, new, today.

And if you can't, then grow up and admit that you're being an ass.
Martin

On 6/10/2016 3:37 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 22:03:38 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

You are looking at green or almost green pine. That needs some set.

If you are cutting hardwood, walnut, Oak, etc NONE is the word in the
sentence. See the QUOTE - that is letter to letter from Isaac Smith.

Martin

It also states on heavily taper ground saw plates .

I don't know any saw manufacturer in the western world that produces
as a stock item mass produced ripsaws without set of some kind







On 6/9/2016 2:01 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 00:10:25 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Trolling - see if you have 20+ years in the group I suspect I have more.

Now look at Cut 10 figure 23 rip teeth. Notice the non-diamond shape
and the slight bend. That isn't set to my thinking - I quote from the
article by Isaac Smith:

"Set varies from none in saws that are heavily taper ground and used in
dry hardwoods, to a hundredth of an inch or more in coarse saws used in
wet woods."

I don't cut much green wood with a hand saw. Double Buck yes. Hardwoods
and dry has "None to a hundred of an inch" None for hardwoods and
hundred of an inch for green wood.

Thanks for the facts that you don't seem to read. Look below figure 24.
And then the example figure 25.

None means ZERO(0).

The pictures have to show something to show the measurement area.

Martin

Figure 24 quite clearly shows set in a ripsaw in the link below, i
have already provided details of manuals showing set in ripsaws , if
you look on the disstons archives it quite clearly shows ripsaws
have set.

Disstons produced one ripsaw for a very short time designed to cut
dry hardwood without set, it was discontinued, although it was an
excellent saw tradesmen found by putting a set on it aactually
performed far better.

Heavily taper ground rip saws although experimented with never
really found favour , they where in general heavier gauge steel to
facilitate the heavy taper needed to accommodate free movement
through the timber, couldn't cope well with resin or sap and still
had issues with binding, hence the reason Disstons dropped the 120
from its line, its use unless set was extremely limited.

Its quite clear your assertion that ripsaws were not set is wrong
conformed by your own evidence.

No one has denied that some manufacturers experimented with no set
ripsaws , however the end result was they were usually discontinued
after a very short time because of the limited use.











On 6/8/2016 5:20 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 22:54:35 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote:

What is your definition of set ?

http://www.blackburntools.com/articl...try/index.html

See the last page or so.

Since I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that you're trolling, I won't
be responding to this thread any more. If you're not trolling, and live
in a universe where "set" means what you say it means, and not what the
rest of the universe says it means, more power to you.

Martin Eastburn wrote in news:5WK6z.8322
:

So you are an old school wood worker and are without a table saw,
bandsaw (sliding table naturally) or any power tools.

I use a saw to touch up and do small work. I don't work myself to
death sawing a lot of wood by hand. I use my mind not my back.

Well, there's certainly no evidence in this thread that
you use your mind.

Personally, I use the right tool for the job. I use a
handsaw for cutting tenons, because I'm in no hurry and
it's easier than setting up the tenoning jig on the table
saw. I use a handsaw to cut long boards to rough length,
because that makes them easier and safer to handle on
the table saw. I use a handsaw for other small stuff,
when it's easier or quicker than going to a power saw.
Whatever is the right tool for the job.

John

steve robinson wrote in
:

He is arguing about a specific saw that was marketed by disston for
a very short period of time, suitable for one purpose fine
accurate cuts in thin stock, if he bothered to check on the disston
website , it also states that many tradesmen actually added set to the
saw.

It's hard to tell, actually, what he's argueing about. He
started out by saying ripsaws have a different tooth shape
(true) and no set (false). Since then he's made a variety
of ludicrous statements, most of which suggest he hasn't
actually done any woodworking in decades, and doesn't really
remember what he did.

John

Martin Eastburn wrote in
:

I haven't seen a ripsaw in a hardware store in 40 years.
I suppose you could buy one on line.

As I pointed out elsewhere in this thread, Lowes and Home
Depot have them (they're crap, but they're there).

There are several on-line vendors of quality saws who will
provide them sharped as a ripsaw.

John

Eat your words.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147...x-412-tpi.aspx
Product Information:
The taper ground blade on this 26" Lynx rip handsaw provides
friction-free cutting, and the hollowing of the back reduces weight,
improving balance and letting the saw tip start a cut in confined areas.
Each Lynx saw is individually produced by a craftsman who ensures that
you get a reliable tool that holds a sharp cutting edge, and will not
fail under constant hard use. Setting and grinding of the teeth is done
by hand so that proper tooth geometry is maintained for the best cutting
action. Handles are carefully crafted and fitted to blades with solid
brass mounting bolts.
- See more at:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147....WUJRIPRW.dpuf

Martin

On 6/11/2016 5:22 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

I haven't seen a ripsaw in a hardware store in 40 years.
I suppose you could buy one on line. But having a ground saw isn't
that uncommon. They do that on table saw blades and other products.

Fine, Martin, since you're the world's expert on saws, tell us where to
get a taper ground handsaw, new, today.

And if you can't, then grow up and admit that you're being an ass.
Martin

On 6/10/2016 3:37 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 22:03:38 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

You are looking at green or almost green pine. That needs some set.

If you are cutting hardwood, walnut, Oak, etc NONE is the word in the
sentence. See the QUOTE - that is letter to letter from Isaac Smith.

Martin

It also states on heavily taper ground saw plates .

I don't know any saw manufacturer in the western world that produces
as a stock item mass produced ripsaws without set of some kind







On 6/9/2016 2:01 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 00:10:25 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Trolling - see if you have 20+ years in the group I suspect I have more.

Now look at Cut 10 figure 23 rip teeth. Notice the non-diamond shape
and the slight bend. That isn't set to my thinking - I quote from the
article by Isaac Smith:

"Set varies from none in saws that are heavily taper ground and used in
dry hardwoods, to a hundredth of an inch or more in coarse saws used in
wet woods."

I don't cut much green wood with a hand saw. Double Buck yes. Hardwoods
and dry has "None to a hundred of an inch" None for hardwoods and
hundred of an inch for green wood.

Thanks for the facts that you don't seem to read. Look below figure 24.
And then the example figure 25.

None means ZERO(0).

The pictures have to show something to show the measurement area.

Martin

Figure 24 quite clearly shows set in a ripsaw in the link below, i
have already provided details of manuals showing set in ripsaws , if
you look on the disstons archives it quite clearly shows ripsaws
have set.

Disstons produced one ripsaw for a very short time designed to cut
dry hardwood without set, it was discontinued, although it was an
excellent saw tradesmen found by putting a set on it aactually
performed far better.

Heavily taper ground rip saws although experimented with never
really found favour , they where in general heavier gauge steel to
facilitate the heavy taper needed to accommodate free movement
through the timber, couldn't cope well with resin or sap and still
had issues with binding, hence the reason Disstons dropped the 120
from its line, its use unless set was extremely limited.

Its quite clear your assertion that ripsaws were not set is wrong
conformed by your own evidence.

No one has denied that some manufacturers experimented with no set
ripsaws , however the end result was they were usually discontinued
after a very short time because of the limited use.











On 6/8/2016 5:20 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 22:54:35 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote:

What is your definition of set ?

http://www.blackburntools.com/articl...try/index.html

See the last page or so.

Since I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that you're trolling, I won't
be responding to this thread any more. If you're not trolling, and live
in a universe where "set" means what you say it means, and not what the
rest of the universe says it means, more power to you.

Martin Eastburn wrote:

I haven't seen a ripsaw in a hardware store in 40 years.
I suppose you could buy one on line. But having a ground saw isn't
that uncommon. They do that on table saw blades and other products.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,42884,63338

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/...l-saw-rip-cut-

In article ,
says...

Eat your words.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147...x-412-tpi.aspx
Product Information:
The taper ground blade on this 26" Lynx rip handsaw provides
friction-free cutting, and the hollowing of the back reduces weight,
improving balance and letting the saw tip start a cut in confined areas.
Each Lynx saw is individually produced by a craftsman who ensures that
you get a reliable tool that holds a sharp cutting edge, and will not
fail under constant hard use. Setting and grinding of the teeth is done
by hand so that proper tooth geometry is maintained for the best cutting
action. Handles are carefully crafted and fitted to blades with solid
brass mounting bolts.
- See more at:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147....WUJRIPRW.dpuf

Martin

Eat what words? I told you to put up or shut up. To my surprise, you
put up instead of whingeing. Well done.

On 6/11/2016 5:22 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

I haven't seen a ripsaw in a hardware store in 40 years.
I suppose you could buy one on line. But having a ground saw isn't
that uncommon. They do that on table saw blades and other products.

Fine, Martin, since you're the world's expert on saws, tell us where to
get a taper ground handsaw, new, today.

And if you can't, then grow up and admit that you're being an ass.
Martin

On 6/10/2016 3:37 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 22:03:38 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

You are looking at green or almost green pine. That needs some set.

If you are cutting hardwood, walnut, Oak, etc NONE is the word in the
sentence. See the QUOTE - that is letter to letter from Isaac Smith.

Martin

It also states on heavily taper ground saw plates .

I don't know any saw manufacturer in the western world that produces
as a stock item mass produced ripsaws without set of some kind







On 6/9/2016 2:01 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 00:10:25 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Trolling - see if you have 20+ years in the group I suspect I have more.

Now look at Cut 10 figure 23 rip teeth. Notice the non-diamond shape
and the slight bend. That isn't set to my thinking - I quote from the
article by Isaac Smith:

"Set varies from none in saws that are heavily taper ground and used in
dry hardwoods, to a hundredth of an inch or more in coarse saws used in
wet woods."

I don't cut much green wood with a hand saw. Double Buck yes. Hardwoods
and dry has "None to a hundred of an inch" None for hardwoods and
hundred of an inch for green wood.

Thanks for the facts that you don't seem to read. Look below figure 24.
And then the example figure 25.

None means ZERO(0).

The pictures have to show something to show the measurement area.

Martin

Figure 24 quite clearly shows set in a ripsaw in the link below, i
have already provided details of manuals showing set in ripsaws , if
you look on the disstons archives it quite clearly shows ripsaws
have set.

Disstons produced one ripsaw for a very short time designed to cut
dry hardwood without set, it was discontinued, although it was an
excellent saw tradesmen found by putting a set on it aactually
performed far better.

Heavily taper ground rip saws although experimented with never
really found favour , they where in general heavier gauge steel to
facilitate the heavy taper needed to accommodate free movement
through the timber, couldn't cope well with resin or sap and still
had issues with binding, hence the reason Disstons dropped the 120
from its line, its use unless set was extremely limited.

Its quite clear your assertion that ripsaws were not set is wrong
conformed by your own evidence.

No one has denied that some manufacturers experimented with no set
ripsaws , however the end result was they were usually discontinued
after a very short time because of the limited use.











On 6/8/2016 5:20 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 22:54:35 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote:

What is your definition of set ?

http://www.blackburntools.com/articl...try/index.html

See the last page or so.

Since I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that you're trolling, I won't
be responding to this thread any more. If you're not trolling, and live
in a universe where "set" means what you say it means, and not what the
rest of the universe says it means, more power to you.






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On 06/12/2016 6:06 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In ,
says...

Eat your words.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147...x-412-tpi.aspx
Product Information:
The taper ground blade on this 26" Lynx rip handsaw provides
friction-free cutting, and the hollowing of the back reduces weight,
improving balance and letting the saw tip start a cut in confined areas.
Each Lynx saw is individually produced by a craftsman who ensures that
you get a reliable tool that holds a sharp cutting edge, and will not
fail under constant hard use. Setting and grinding of the teeth is done
by hand so that proper tooth geometry is maintained for the best cutting
action. Handles are carefully crafted and fitted to blades with solid
brass mounting bolts.
- See more at:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147....WUJRIPRW.dpuf

Martin

Eat what words? I told you to put up or shut up. To my surprise, you
put up instead of whingeing. Well done.
....

But it _still_ has SET--

"Teeth precisely set and sharpened to ensure the best possible cut - See
more at:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147407/lynx-wclr26-ripping-saw-26-x-412-tpi.aspx#sthash.WUJRIPRW.ifG7zTUr.dpuf"

--

"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message ...

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147...x-412-tpi.aspx
Product Information:
The taper ground blade on this 26" Lynx rip handsaw provides friction-free
cutting, and the hollowing of the back reduces weight,

I have one of those and a Sandvik rip saw... I also have a Lynx 12 pt cross
cut, Disten 8 pt crosscut and a 12 pt Sandvik cross cut. Bought them all
new... have L-N dovetail, L-N cross cut back saw, and an L-N tenon saw also.
They all work fine...

When the Albany NY Woodcraft closed I picked up the Lynx saws on "final
days" clearance. This after going there looking for an 1/8" chisel after
teaching a dovetailing class for NWA... I got all three items for $140
including tax. Seemed like a good deal at the time. ;~)

"Spalted Walt" wrote in message
...

Martin Eastburn wrote:

I haven't seen a ripsaw in a hardware store in 40 years.
I suppose you could buy one on line. But having a ground saw isn't
that uncommon. They do that on table saw blades and other products.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,42884,63338

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/...l-saw-rip-cut-

I posted those references too... back on 5/30 before this discussion spun
out of control! LOL

On 2016-06-12, dpb wrote:

"Teeth precisely set and sharpened to ensure the best possible cut - See
more at:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147407/lynx-wclr26-ripping-saw-26-x-412-tpi.aspx#sthash.WUJRIPRW.ifG7zTUr.dpuf"


I notice they do not seem to be "breasted", like Pax saws:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,42884,63338

http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/glossary.html

nb

On Sat, 11 Jun 2016 23:46:11 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Eat your words.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147...x-412-tpi.aspx
Product Information:
The taper ground blade on this 26" Lynx rip handsaw provides
friction-free cutting, and the hollowing of the back reduces weight,
improving balance and letting the saw tip start a cut in confined areas.
Each Lynx saw is individually produced by a craftsman who ensures that
you get a reliable tool that holds a sharp cutting edge, and will not
fail under constant hard use. Setting and grinding of the teeth is done
by hand so that proper tooth geometry is maintained for the best cutting
action. Handles are carefully crafted and fitted to blades with solid
brass mounting bolts.
- See more at:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147....WUJRIPRW.dpuf

Martin

Snip

Note the word setting

Doesn't say what set value in the display.
The documents say set is from zero to .1". Zero is set just not much.
Martin

On 6/12/2016 5:44 PM, steve robinson wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jun 2016 23:46:11 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Eat your words.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147...x-412-tpi.aspx
Product Information:
The taper ground blade on this 26" Lynx rip handsaw provides
friction-free cutting, and the hollowing of the back reduces weight,
improving balance and letting the saw tip start a cut in confined areas.
Each Lynx saw is individually produced by a craftsman who ensures that
you get a reliable tool that holds a sharp cutting edge, and will not
fail under constant hard use. Setting and grinding of the teeth is done
by hand so that proper tooth geometry is maintained for the best cutting
action. Handles are carefully crafted and fitted to blades with solid
brass mounting bolts.
- See more at:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147....WUJRIPRW.dpuf

Martin

Snip

Note the word setting

On Sun, 12 Jun 2016 22:11:27 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Doesn't say what set value in the display.
The documents say set is from zero to .1". Zero is set just not much.
Martin


The point is its set, something you stated ripsaws do not have.



On 6/12/2016 5:44 PM, steve robinson wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jun 2016 23:46:11 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Eat your words.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147...x-412-tpi.aspx
Product Information:
The taper ground blade on this 26" Lynx rip handsaw provides
friction-free cutting, and the hollowing of the back reduces weight,
improving balance and letting the saw tip start a cut in confined areas.
Each Lynx saw is individually produced by a craftsman who ensures that
you get a reliable tool that holds a sharp cutting edge, and will not
fail under constant hard use. Setting and grinding of the teeth is done
by hand so that proper tooth geometry is maintained for the best cutting
action. Handles are carefully crafted and fitted to blades with solid
brass mounting bolts.
- See more at:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147....WUJRIPRW.dpuf

Martin

Snip

Note the word setting

The Document and I agree. It states that "SET" is from ZERO (0) inches
to approximately 1/10" of offset. Zero set is for very hard wood.
The ground blade allows slippage. In soft woods, sticky woods with sap -
use 1/10" and that means +/- .1" so the kerf is blade width to way out
there near a 1/4"! .2 + width of the blade.

It says you have to set the set yourself by hand. It depends on the work
intended for the saw.

One could have full set and waste a lot of high quality and expensive
wood or have it as small as possible. This saw has a taper ground blade
which allows for zero or almost zero for exotic wood.

Martin

On 6/13/2016 3:05 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jun 2016 22:11:27 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Doesn't say what set value in the display.
The documents say set is from zero to .1". Zero is set just not much.
Martin


The point is its set, something you stated ripsaws do not have.



On 6/12/2016 5:44 PM, steve robinson wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jun 2016 23:46:11 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Eat your words.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147...x-412-tpi.aspx
Product Information:
The taper ground blade on this 26" Lynx rip handsaw provides
friction-free cutting, and the hollowing of the back reduces weight,
improving balance and letting the saw tip start a cut in confined areas.
Each Lynx saw is individually produced by a craftsman who ensures that
you get a reliable tool that holds a sharp cutting edge, and will not
fail under constant hard use. Setting and grinding of the teeth is done
by hand so that proper tooth geometry is maintained for the best cutting
action. Handles are carefully crafted and fitted to blades with solid
brass mounting bolts.
- See more at:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147....WUJRIPRW.dpuf

Martin

Snip

Note the word setting

On Tue, 14 Jun 2016 22:32:01 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

snip

You do realize a taper ground saw isn't ground uniformly along its
length plus they are not ground to the teeth

Read. It says set your set by hand. If you need 2" wavy for your
needs then do it. The taper is in the upper part as that is where
the drag/tug occurs. Close to the teeth there is more power in the
saw than drag. If you need more add more. If you are cutting a $50
board, then use what you want to do.

Martin

On 6/15/2016 10:07 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Tue, 14 Jun 2016 22:32:01 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

snip

You do realize a taper ground saw isn't ground uniformly along its
length plus they are not ground to the teeth

On Wed, 15 Jun 2016 21:39:27 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Read. It says set your set by hand. If you need 2" wavy for your
needs then do it. The taper is in the upper part as that is where
the drag/tug occurs. Close to the teeth there is more power in the
saw than drag. If you need more add more. If you are cutting a $50
board, then use what you want to do.

Martin

On 6/15/2016 10:07 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Tue, 14 Jun 2016 22:32:01 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

snip

You do realize a taper ground saw isn't ground uniformly along its
length plus they are not ground to the teeth



So you now finally agree ripsaws have set

Martin Eastburn wrote in news:Ejo8z.54356
:

Read. It says set your set by hand.

Not sure why I'm getting back in this, but no, it does
not say "set your set by hand". It says the manufacturer
of the saw performs the setting by hand (that particular
manufacturer does pretty much everything by hand).

John

I ALWAYS said they did - from Zero to about .1" is the spec.
Martin

On 6/16/2016 2:22 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jun 2016 21:39:27 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Read. It says set your set by hand. If you need 2" wavy for your
needs then do it. The taper is in the upper part as that is where
the drag/tug occurs. Close to the teeth there is more power in the
saw than drag. If you need more add more. If you are cutting a $50
board, then use what you want to do.

Martin

On 6/15/2016 10:07 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Tue, 14 Jun 2016 22:32:01 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

snip

You do realize a taper ground saw isn't ground uniformly along its
length plus they are not ground to the teeth



So you now finally agree ripsaws have set

They set to the middle ground. If you are sawing exotic and hard to get
wood, you don't want a .25" kerf unless you have to. Set it yourself to
the size you want for your specific job or use the generic set.
Martin

On 6/18/2016 2:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Martin Eastburn wrote in news:Ejo8z.54356
:

Read. It says set your set by hand.

Not sure why I'm getting back in this, but no, it does
not say "set your set by hand". It says the manufacturer
of the saw performs the setting by hand (that particular
manufacturer does pretty much everything by hand).

John