Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
I've got a Raspberry Pi 3 and the official Raspberry Pi Touchscreen that
I'm working on building a case for. I've come across a design decision I'd like a little input on. I have an amplifier and speaker arrangement to give me basic sound. I'm using 2 small speakers, about 1" by 2". The speakers are in their own plastic enclosure with a provision to mount the speaker using a sufficiently small screw, probably 2-56 maybe 1-72. FWIW, the case will probably be pine. It makes sense to make some form of grill or hole in the wood to make sure the sound can pass unobstructed. I could possibly cut 1/8" wide slots with an endmill or drill a series of holes. Which would be better, or does it matter? Also, I'd like to keep little bits of debris from sticking to the speaker cone. Would a piece of cotton cloth or something similar work as "speaker fabric" without affecting the sound too much? Thanks, Puckdropper |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
"Puckdropper" wrote in message b.com... It makes sense to make some form of grill or hole in the wood to make sure the sound can pass unobstructed. I could possibly cut 1/8" wide slots with an endmill or drill a series of holes. Which would be better, or does it matter? Also, I'd like to keep little bits of debris from sticking to the speaker cone. Would a piece of cotton cloth or something similar work as "speaker fabric" without affecting the sound too much? Puckdropper Simplest might be to just bore a hole a little smaller than the diameter of the speaker cone, and glue a very light piece of cloth across the opening between the wood and the speaker. Shouldn't have much of an effect on the sound, if any. Maybe your wife or girlfriend has a pair of black nylons she's about ready to throw away ;-) Tom |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/28/2016 5:46 PM, tdacon wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote in message b.com... It makes sense to make some form of grill or hole in the wood to make sure the sound can pass unobstructed. I could possibly cut 1/8" wide slots with an endmill or drill a series of holes. Which would be better, or does it matter? Also, I'd like to keep little bits of debris from sticking to the speaker cone. Would a piece of cotton cloth or something similar work as "speaker fabric" without affecting the sound too much? Puckdropper Simplest might be to just bore a hole a little smaller than the diameter of the speaker cone, and glue a very light piece of cloth across the opening between the wood and the speaker. Shouldn't have much of an effect on the sound, if any. Maybe your wife or girlfriend has a pair of black nylons she's about ready to throw away ;-) For that application (all things considered) he could probably glue a piece of cheese cloth over the opening and never know the difference other than a VERY slight degradation in volume. In short, most anything would work. Nylons would work but I'd have some concerns about longevity. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 18:32:45 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote: On 3/28/2016 5:46 PM, tdacon wrote: "Puckdropper" wrote in message b.com... It makes sense to make some form of grill or hole in the wood to make sure the sound can pass unobstructed. I could possibly cut 1/8" wide slots with an endmill or drill a series of holes. Which would be better, or does it matter? Also, I'd like to keep little bits of debris from sticking to the speaker cone. Would a piece of cotton cloth or something similar work as "speaker fabric" without affecting the sound too much? Puckdropper Simplest might be to just bore a hole a little smaller than the diameter of the speaker cone, and glue a very light piece of cloth across the opening between the wood and the speaker. Shouldn't have much of an effect on the sound, if any. Maybe your wife or girlfriend has a pair of black nylons she's about ready to throw away ;-) For that application (all things considered) he could probably glue a piece of cheese cloth over the opening and never know the difference other than a VERY slight degradation in volume. In short, most anything would work. Nylons would work but I'd have some concerns about longevity. Cheesecloth is too pores (SP) too soft/stretchy. Nylon's would be better and have a sexy sound. (g) but the best would be a stiffer cloth. If the speaker is going in a box the harder the wood the more it reflects sound. Also drill a small hole for the back side of the speaker to allow the diaphragm to fluctuate freely, you can tune the speaker by the size of the hole. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/29/2016 2:03 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 18:32:45 -0500, Unquestionably Confused wrote: On 3/28/2016 5:46 PM, tdacon wrote: "Puckdropper" wrote in message b.com... It makes sense to make some form of grill or hole in the wood to make sure the sound can pass unobstructed. I could possibly cut 1/8" wide slots with an endmill or drill a series of holes. Which would be better, or does it matter? Also, I'd like to keep little bits of debris from sticking to the speaker cone. Would a piece of cotton cloth or something similar work as "speaker fabric" without affecting the sound too much? Puckdropper Simplest might be to just bore a hole a little smaller than the diameter of the speaker cone, and glue a very light piece of cloth across the opening between the wood and the speaker. Shouldn't have much of an effect on the sound, if any. Maybe your wife or girlfriend has a pair of black nylons she's about ready to throw away ;-) For that application (all things considered) he could probably glue a piece of cheese cloth over the opening and never know the difference other than a VERY slight degradation in volume. In short, most anything would work. Nylons would work but I'd have some concerns about longevity. Cheesecloth is too pores (SP) too soft/stretchy. Nylon's would be better and have a sexy sound. (g) but the best would be a stiffer cloth. If the speaker is going in a box the harder the wood the more it reflects sound. Also drill a small hole for the back side of the speaker to allow the diaphragm to fluctuate freely, you can tune the speaker by the size of the hole. All valid points but in this instance he refers to 1/8" slots covering the speaker opening. I wouldn't be worried too much about the "stretchiness" of the cloth nor, for that matter, the porosity (read: Acoustic Transparency) of that material. Likewise, if we go away from 1/8" slots, we may find that SWMBO's used panty hose will not be sufficiently strong to withstand repeated finger pokes after x number of months of exposure to UV light, etc. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
OFWW wrote in
: Cheesecloth is too pores (SP) too soft/stretchy. Nylon's would be better and have a sexy sound. (g) but the best would be a stiffer cloth. This sort of depends on how concerned you are with the sound quality. A soft, porous cloth will attenuate the sound, and affect the tone. If you want good acoustics, use a stiff cloth. If you just want to keep debris out, use whatever's handy. If the speaker is going in a box the harder the wood the more it reflects sound. Also drill a small hole for the back side of the speaker to allow the diaphragm to fluctuate freely, you can tune the speaker by the size of the hole. This is important - not the tuning, but having some sort of vent on the backside of the speaker. A speaker makes sound by pushing air forwards and back, and if there's no way for air to move behind the speaker, it's not going to move much air in front either. Result - not much sound. (this is assuming the box is smallish - a big box with small speakers has enough volume inside it won't need a vent). Also, since you have two speakers, make sure they are phased correctly. If you connect them out of phase, they will cancel each other, and again you get not much sound. This is more of a problem with big bass speakers, but even with small ones it's worth checking the plug is right way round. John |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
Unquestionably Confused wrote in
eb.com: All valid points but in this instance he refers to 1/8" slots covering the speaker opening. I wouldn't be worried too much about the "stretchiness" of the cloth nor, for that matter, the porosity (read: Acoustic Transparency) of that material. Likewise, if we go away from 1/8" slots, we may find that SWMBO's used panty hose will not be sufficiently strong to withstand repeated finger pokes after x number of months of exposure to UV light, etc. I'm thinking about just gluing the fabric to the backside of the speaker grill, which should take care of things nicely. I'm not worried about fingers or stuff like that getting in, just the annoying little bits of debris that these things tend to collect and can sometimes be a pain to remove. The speaker has its own enclosure, and the enclosure will be mounted to the case. Puckdropper |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/29/2016 10:43 AM, John McCoy wrote:
OFWW wrote in : Cheesecloth is too pores (SP) too soft/stretchy. Nylon's would be better and have a sexy sound. (g) but the best would be a stiffer cloth. This sort of depends on how concerned you are with the sound quality. A soft, porous cloth will attenuate the sound, and affect the tone. If you want good acoustics, use a stiff cloth. If you just want to keep debris out, use whatever's handy. FWIW I have not ever witnessed this. Maybe a little if the cloth is denser/thicker than the length of the sound waves and that is more if a concern for higher notes where the sound is more directional. But I used drapery material in from of my L?R and center speakers and you can not tell if the material/door is open or closed. If the speaker is going in a box the harder the wood the more it reflects sound. Also drill a small hole for the back side of the speaker to allow the diaphragm to fluctuate freely, you can tune the speaker by the size of the hole. This is important - not the tuning, but having some sort of vent on the backside of the speaker. A speaker makes sound by pushing air forwards and back, and if there's no way for air to move behind the speaker, it's not going to move much air in front either. Result - not much sound. (this is assuming the box is smallish - a big box with small speakers has enough volume inside it won't need a vent). That is not true either. Long ago many speakers were built to be air tight. Case in point many subwolfers use a driver speaker and a slave speaker inside the same enclosure. The whole speaker assembly is dependent on being air tight for the slave speaker to function and produce sound. And the speakers do not move enough to be hampered by air that easily compressed or expands from the movement of the speaker. I have a totally enclosed 12" subwolfer with no issues. Also, since you have two speakers, make sure they are phased correctly. If you connect them out of phase, they will cancel each other, and again you get not much sound. This is more of a problem with big bass speakers, but even with small ones it's worth checking the plug is right way round. John Swingman would be the one to consult here, he has built, owned and operated recording studios. He told me that the material would not matter when covering my entertainment center doors with drapery material, and you cannot tell the difference. My only concern was that the weave was not so dense that IR light would not pass through. I simply held the material up to a light to see if the light penetrated. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
|
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in
b.com: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:d-ednSYZkf_9JmfLnZ2dnUU7- : That is not true either. Long ago many speakers were built to be air tight. Case in point many subwolfers use a driver speaker and a slave speaker inside the same enclosure. The whole speaker assembly is dependent on being air tight for the slave speaker to function and produce sound. What would the slave speaker tend to look like? Basically like a speaker without a magnet? I picked up a speaker from Walmart that had one real speaker and one that kinda looked like a decoy or fake speaker. Slave speaker is a special case - in that case the slave is moving outward when the driven speaker is moving inward, and vice-versa, so the volume of air inside the enclosure doesn't change. With two driven speakers, if the enclosure is airtight you're compressing (or decompressing) the air in the enclosure, which is generating a force opposing the way the speaker is being driven. How much force depends on how big the speaker is, and how much volume is in the enclosure. If your enclosure is small, it can have an appreciable effect. John |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/29/2016 1:05 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:d-ednSYZkf_9JmfLnZ2dnUU7- : *snip & trim* That is not true either. Long ago many speakers were built to be air tight. Case in point many subwolfers use a driver speaker and a slave speaker inside the same enclosure. The whole speaker assembly is dependent on being air tight for the slave speaker to function and produce sound. And the speakers do not move enough to be hampered by air that easily compressed or expands from the movement of the speaker. I have a totally enclosed 12" subwolfer with no issues. What would the slave speaker tend to look like? Basically like a speaker without a magnet? I picked up a speaker from Walmart that had one real speaker and one that kinda looked like a decoy or fake speaker. That would be it! If you dare thump the driven speaker the slave should move a bit. *snip & trim* Puckdropper |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/29/2016 1:20 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in b.com: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:d-ednSYZkf_9JmfLnZ2dnUU7- : That is not true either. Long ago many speakers were built to be air tight. Case in point many subwolfers use a driver speaker and a slave speaker inside the same enclosure. The whole speaker assembly is dependent on being air tight for the slave speaker to function and produce sound. What would the slave speaker tend to look like? Basically like a speaker without a magnet? I picked up a speaker from Walmart that had one real speaker and one that kinda looked like a decoy or fake speaker. Slave speaker is a special case - in that case the slave is moving outward when the driven speaker is moving inward, and vice-versa, so the volume of air inside the enclosure doesn't change. The air volume does not change in a sealed speaker either. The pressure does change but not the volume. With two driven speakers, if the enclosure is airtight you're compressing (or decompressing) the air in the enclosure, which is generating a force opposing the way the speaker is being driven. Not so if the speakers are air tight in their own compartments inside the speaker housing, which apparently is how my center speaker with 2, 5" speakers is set up. How much force depends on how big the speaker is, and how much volume is in the enclosure. If your enclosure is small, it can have an appreciable effect. John |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 15:43:40 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote: OFWW wrote in : Cheesecloth is too pores (SP) too soft/stretchy. Nylon's would be better and have a sexy sound. (g) but the best would be a stiffer cloth. This sort of depends on how concerned you are with the sound quality. A soft, porous cloth will attenuate the sound, and affect the tone. If you want good acoustics, use a stiff cloth. If you just want to keep debris out, use whatever's handy. If the speaker is going in a box the harder the wood the more it reflects sound. Also drill a small hole for the back side of the speaker to allow the diaphragm to fluctuate freely, you can tune the speaker by the size of the hole. This is important - not the tuning, but having some sort of vent on the backside of the speaker. A speaker makes sound by pushing air forwards and back, and if there's no way for air to move behind the speaker, it's not going to move much air in front either. Result - not much sound. (this is assuming the box is smallish - a big box with small speakers has enough volume inside it won't need a vent). That depends on the speaker. "Acoustic suspension" speakers aren't ported. They rely on the back pressure to return the speaker to its midpoint. Also, since you have two speakers, make sure they are phased correctly. If you connect them out of phase, they will cancel each other, and again you get not much sound. This is more of a problem with big bass speakers, but even with small ones it's worth checking the plug is right way round. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 14:12:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 3/29/2016 1:20 PM, John McCoy wrote: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in b.com: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:d-ednSYZkf_9JmfLnZ2dnUU7- : That is not true either. Long ago many speakers were built to be air tight. Case in point many subwolfers use a driver speaker and a slave speaker inside the same enclosure. The whole speaker assembly is dependent on being air tight for the slave speaker to function and produce sound. What would the slave speaker tend to look like? Basically like a speaker without a magnet? I picked up a speaker from Walmart that had one real speaker and one that kinda looked like a decoy or fake speaker. Slave speaker is a special case - in that case the slave is moving outward when the driven speaker is moving inward, and vice-versa, so the volume of air inside the enclosure doesn't change. The air volume does not change in a sealed speaker either. The pressure does change but not the volume. The volume of air obviously changes as the volume increases. ;-) The quantity of air is constant, the pressure is changing, so the volume must change (inversely). Remember, the speaker cone is moving. With two driven speakers, if the enclosure is airtight you're compressing (or decompressing) the air in the enclosure, which is generating a force opposing the way the speaker is being driven. Not so if the speakers are air tight in their own compartments inside the speaker housing, which apparently is how my center speaker with 2, 5" speakers is set up. How much force depends on how big the speaker is, and how much volume is in the enclosure. If your enclosure is small, it can have an appreciable effect. John |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 07:32:52 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote: On 3/29/2016 2:03 AM, OFWW wrote: On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 18:32:45 -0500, Unquestionably Confused wrote: On 3/28/2016 5:46 PM, tdacon wrote: "Puckdropper" wrote in message b.com... It makes sense to make some form of grill or hole in the wood to make sure the sound can pass unobstructed. I could possibly cut 1/8" wide slots with an endmill or drill a series of holes. Which would be better, or does it matter? Also, I'd like to keep little bits of debris from sticking to the speaker cone. Would a piece of cotton cloth or something similar work as "speaker fabric" without affecting the sound too much? Puckdropper Simplest might be to just bore a hole a little smaller than the diameter of the speaker cone, and glue a very light piece of cloth across the opening between the wood and the speaker. Shouldn't have much of an effect on the sound, if any. Maybe your wife or girlfriend has a pair of black nylons she's about ready to throw away ;-) For that application (all things considered) he could probably glue a piece of cheese cloth over the opening and never know the difference other than a VERY slight degradation in volume. In short, most anything would work. Nylons would work but I'd have some concerns about longevity. Cheesecloth is too pores (SP) too soft/stretchy. Nylon's would be better and have a sexy sound. (g) but the best would be a stiffer cloth. If the speaker is going in a box the harder the wood the more it reflects sound. Also drill a small hole for the back side of the speaker to allow the diaphragm to fluctuate freely, you can tune the speaker by the size of the hole. All valid points but in this instance he refers to 1/8" slots covering the speaker opening. I wouldn't be worried too much about the "stretchiness" of the cloth nor, for that matter, the porosity (read: Acoustic Transparency) of that material. Likewise, if we go away from 1/8" slots, we may find that SWMBO's used panty hose will not be sufficiently strong to withstand repeated finger pokes after x number of months of exposure to UV light, etc. Yeah, you are right about that, I was not even thinking of the fact that it is a plastic material. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 21:48:19 -0400, krw wrote:
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 14:12:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 3/29/2016 1:20 PM, John McCoy wrote: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in b.com: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:d-ednSYZkf_9JmfLnZ2dnUU7- : That is not true either. Long ago many speakers were built to be air tight. Case in point many subwolfers use a driver speaker and a slave speaker inside the same enclosure. The whole speaker assembly is dependent on being air tight for the slave speaker to function and produce sound. What would the slave speaker tend to look like? Basically like a speaker without a magnet? I picked up a speaker from Walmart that had one real speaker and one that kinda looked like a decoy or fake speaker. Slave speaker is a special case - in that case the slave is moving outward when the driven speaker is moving inward, and vice-versa, so the volume of air inside the enclosure doesn't change. The air volume does not change in a sealed speaker either. The pressure does change but not the volume. The volume of air obviously changes as the volume increases. ;-) The quantity of air is constant, the pressure is changing, so the volume must change (inversely). Remember, the speaker cone is moving. Yet if there is no vent the volume of air does not change, only the pressure changes. So the sound is dampened in that the speaker is not free to fully travel, unless it is a metal coned speaker. I believe that is what Leon was referring to. With two driven speakers, if the enclosure is airtight you're compressing (or decompressing) the air in the enclosure, which is generating a force opposing the way the speaker is being driven. Not so if the speakers are air tight in their own compartments inside the speaker housing, which apparently is how my center speaker with 2, 5" speakers is set up. How much force depends on how big the speaker is, and how much volume is in the enclosure. If your enclosure is small, it can have an appreciable effect. John |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 28 Mar 2016 22:10:44 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote: I've got a Raspberry Pi 3 and the official Raspberry Pi Touchscreen that I'm working on building a case for. I've come across a design decision I'd like a little input on. I have an amplifier and speaker arrangement to give me basic sound. I'm using 2 small speakers, about 1" by 2". The speakers are in their own plastic enclosure with a provision to mount the speaker using a sufficiently small screw, probably 2-56 maybe 1-72. FWIW, the case will probably be pine. It makes sense to make some form of grill or hole in the wood to make sure the sound can pass unobstructed. I could possibly cut 1/8" wide slots with an endmill or drill a series of holes. Which would be better, or does it matter? Also, I'd like to keep little bits of debris from sticking to the speaker cone. Would a piece of cotton cloth or something similar work as "speaker fabric" without affecting the sound too much? Thanks, Puckdropper I'm curious, is your Pi for a special purpose or experimentation? How did you get one so fast? |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
OFWW wrote in
: I'm curious, is your Pi for a special purpose or experimentation? How did you get one so fast? It's mainly for playing with right now. I've got a Pi 2 that I'm hooking up my Digitrax PR3 programmer to, and may do so with the Pi 3. I got lucky, I guess. I ordered the official touch screen from MCM and preordered a Pi 3 about 3 weeks before it was available. They delayed shipping the touch screen until the Pi 3 was available. The touch screen is a nice bit of hardware, I've played with it for several hours already and the only problems I have are basically Fitt's Law related... Kinda hard to hit a 5-pixel by 10-pixel target with your huge 50x50 pixel fingers. Puckdropper |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
OFWW wrote in
: On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 21:48:19 -0400, krw wrote: On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 14:12:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: The air volume does not change in a sealed speaker either. The pressure does change but not the volume. The volume of air obviously changes as the volume increases. ;-) The quantity of air is constant, the pressure is changing, so the volume must change (inversely). Remember, the speaker cone is moving. Yet if there is no vent the volume of air does not change, only the pressure changes. So the sound is dampened in that the speaker is not free to fully travel, unless it is a metal coned speaker. I believe that is what Leon was referring to. Eh? You guys are trying to re-write the laws of physics here. Boyle's gas law applies, p1v1 = p2v2, just as krw said. This is not complicated - assume there is a speaker in a sealed box. The speaker cone moves as it's being driven with the audio signal. As the cone moves outward, the volume inside the box increases, and the pressure decreases. As it moves inwards, the volume in the box decreases and the pressure increases. As noted (several times) whether these changes are significant depends on the size of the box relative to the speaker. John |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/29/2016 8:48 PM, krw wrote:
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 14:12:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 3/29/2016 1:20 PM, John McCoy wrote: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in b.com: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:d-ednSYZkf_9JmfLnZ2dnUU7- : That is not true either. Long ago many speakers were built to be air tight. Case in point many subwolfers use a driver speaker and a slave speaker inside the same enclosure. The whole speaker assembly is dependent on being air tight for the slave speaker to function and produce sound. What would the slave speaker tend to look like? Basically like a speaker without a magnet? I picked up a speaker from Walmart that had one real speaker and one that kinda looked like a decoy or fake speaker. Slave speaker is a special case - in that case the slave is moving outward when the driven speaker is moving inward, and vice-versa, so the volume of air inside the enclosure doesn't change. The air volume does not change in a sealed speaker either. The pressure does change but not the volume. The volume of air obviously changes as the volume increases. ;-) The quantity of air is constant, the pressure is changing, so the volume must change (inversely). Remember, the speaker cone is moving. The volume remains the same, where does it go when it is in a sealed container? Would volume and quantity be the same measurement? Now if the speaker has an opening the volume does change. Speaker movement in a sealed cabinet would simply increase and decrease pressure. We are measuring air, not displacement. Displacement would certainly change. With two driven speakers, if the enclosure is airtight you're compressing (or decompressing) the air in the enclosure, which is generating a force opposing the way the speaker is being driven. Not so if the speakers are air tight in their own compartments inside the speaker housing, which apparently is how my center speaker with 2, 5" speakers is set up. How much force depends on how big the speaker is, and how much volume is in the enclosure. If your enclosure is small, it can have an appreciable effect. John |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/30/2016 9:47 AM, John McCoy wrote:
OFWW wrote in : On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 21:48:19 -0400, krw wrote: On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 14:12:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: The air volume does not change in a sealed speaker either. The pressure does change but not the volume. The volume of air obviously changes as the volume increases. ;-) The quantity of air is constant, the pressure is changing, so the volume must change (inversely). Remember, the speaker cone is moving. Yet if there is no vent the volume of air does not change, only the pressure changes. So the sound is dampened in that the speaker is not free to fully travel, unless it is a metal coned speaker. I believe that is what Leon was referring to. Eh? You guys are trying to re-write the laws of physics here. Boyle's gas law applies, p1v1 = p2v2, just as krw said. This is not complicated - assume there is a speaker in a sealed box. The speaker cone moves as it's being driven with the audio signal. As the cone moves outward, the volume inside the box increases, and the pressure decreases. As it moves inwards, the volume in the box decreases and the pressure increases. Nope, in a sealed speaker the same amount of air is in the enclosure regardless if the speaker cone is moving in or out. What you are confusing is displacement. The measurable area, not air volume, inside the speaker changes but not the volume of air. Air easily compressed and decompresses, that does not decrease the volume of air. As noted (several times) whether these changes are significant depends on the size of the box relative to the speaker. John |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/30/2016 1:48 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 21:48:19 -0400, krw wrote: On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 14:12:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 3/29/2016 1:20 PM, John McCoy wrote: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in b.com: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:d-ednSYZkf_9JmfLnZ2dnUU7- : That is not true either. Long ago many speakers were built to be air tight. Case in point many subwolfers use a driver speaker and a slave speaker inside the same enclosure. The whole speaker assembly is dependent on being air tight for the slave speaker to function and produce sound. What would the slave speaker tend to look like? Basically like a speaker without a magnet? I picked up a speaker from Walmart that had one real speaker and one that kinda looked like a decoy or fake speaker. Slave speaker is a special case - in that case the slave is moving outward when the driven speaker is moving inward, and vice-versa, so the volume of air inside the enclosure doesn't change. The air volume does not change in a sealed speaker either. The pressure does change but not the volume. The volume of air obviously changes as the volume increases. ;-) The quantity of air is constant, the pressure is changing, so the volume must change (inversely). Remember, the speaker cone is moving. Yet if there is no vent the volume of air does not change, only the pressure changes. So the sound is dampened in that the speaker is not free to fully travel, unless it is a metal coned speaker. I believe that is what Leon was referring to. Yes, speaker cone movement in a sealed enclosure neither creates or eliminates air. It simply compresses and decompress the air. |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/29/2016 8:43 PM, krw wrote:
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 15:43:40 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy wrote: OFWW wrote in : Cheesecloth is too pores (SP) too soft/stretchy. Nylon's would be better and have a sexy sound. (g) but the best would be a stiffer cloth. This sort of depends on how concerned you are with the sound quality. A soft, porous cloth will attenuate the sound, and affect the tone. If you want good acoustics, use a stiff cloth. If you just want to keep debris out, use whatever's handy. If the speaker is going in a box the harder the wood the more it reflects sound. Also drill a small hole for the back side of the speaker to allow the diaphragm to fluctuate freely, you can tune the speaker by the size of the hole. This is important - not the tuning, but having some sort of vent on the backside of the speaker. A speaker makes sound by pushing air forwards and back, and if there's no way for air to move behind the speaker, it's not going to move much air in front either. Result - not much sound. (this is assuming the box is smallish - a big box with small speakers has enough volume inside it won't need a vent). That depends on the speaker. "Acoustic suspension" speakers aren't ported. They rely on the back pressure to return the speaker to its midpoint. AKA Air Suspension speakers. |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
Leon wrote:
Yes, speaker cone movement in a sealed enclosure neither creates or eliminates air. It simply compresses and decompress the air. Not really Leon. The front of the speaker enclosure is open - or else you wouldn't hear the sound. Volume does change instantaneously as the cone moves. When you are pushing air out, you can't be sucking air in at the same time if the enclosure is sealed and the only opening is where the air is being pushed out. Compressing air if it can't escape to the outside world would not create sound in the outside world. -- -Mike- |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/30/2016 1:27 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote: Yes, speaker cone movement in a sealed enclosure neither creates or eliminates air. It simply compresses and decompress the air. Not really Leon. The front of the speaker enclosure is open - or else you wouldn't hear the sound. Volume does change instantaneously as the cone moves. When you are pushing air out, you can't be sucking air in at the same time if the enclosure is sealed and the only opening is where the air is being pushed out. Compressing air if it can't escape to the outside world would not create sound in the outside world. \ Naturally the front of the speaker cone is open, but the back is/was often ins an air tight environment. I hate looking the info up but this kinda supports my comments. http://www.audioholics.com/loudspeak...aled-vs-ported |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
Leon wrote:
Naturally the front of the speaker cone is open, but the back is/was often ins an air tight environment. I hate looking the info up but this kinda supports my comments. Well... not so much. If I understand your earlier comments correctly, you are interpreting a sealed chamber to mean an completely sealed chamber. That's the point I commented on. It's not completely sealed as long as the front of the speaker is open. The balance of the speaker cabinet is neutralized to atmospheric pressure by that opening. It's only that sound is directed by that sealed back. Not that volume and/or pressure remain constant. -- -Mike- |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/30/2016 4:51 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote: Naturally the front of the speaker cone is open, but the back is/was often ins an air tight environment. I hate looking the info up but this kinda supports my comments. Well... not so much. If I understand your earlier comments correctly, you are interpreting a sealed chamber to mean an completely sealed chamber. That's the point I commented on. It's not completely sealed as long as the front of the speaker is open. The balance of the speaker cabinet is neutralized to atmospheric pressure by that opening. It's only that sound is directed by that sealed back. Not that volume and/or pressure remain constant. No the front of the speaker is open, obviously but the box in many cases is air tight. You probably came into the conversation late and are missing the key points. Previous posts indicated the need for a vented port so that the speaker would operate. I said that this was not true. There seemed to be some thoughts that a speaker would not operate if it had a sealed compartment behind it, which is not true. |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
Leon wrote:
On 3/30/2016 4:51 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: Leon wrote: Naturally the front of the speaker cone is open, but the back is/was often ins an air tight environment. I hate looking the info up but this kinda supports my comments. Well... not so much. If I understand your earlier comments correctly, you are interpreting a sealed chamber to mean an completely sealed chamber. That's the point I commented on. It's not completely sealed as long as the front of the speaker is open. The balance of the speaker cabinet is neutralized to atmospheric pressure by that opening. It's only that sound is directed by that sealed back. Not that volume and/or pressure remain constant. No the front of the speaker is open, obviously but the box in many cases is air tight. You probably came into the conversation late and are missing the key points. Previous posts indicated the need for a vented port so that the speaker would operate. I said that this was not true. There seemed to be some thoughts that a speaker would not operate if it had a sealed compartment behind it, which is not true. Agreed Leon - I did come into it late and maybe I misunderstood some points from the time I came in. I picked up on it where I thought I read that a sealed cabinet had a constant volume and that's where my initial comment entered. Sealed backs are one thing but there is no such thing as a speaker cabinet with a sealed compartment. At the very least, atmospheric pressure enters the chamber through the speaker cone. -- -Mike- |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote: On 3/30/2016 4:51 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: Leon wrote: Naturally the front of the speaker cone is open, but the back is/was often ins an air tight environment. I hate looking the info up but this kinda supports my comments. Well... not so much. If I understand your earlier comments correctly, you are interpreting a sealed chamber to mean an completely sealed chamber. That's the point I commented on. It's not completely sealed as long as the front of the speaker is open. The balance of the speaker cabinet is neutralized to atmospheric pressure by that opening. It's only that sound is directed by that sealed back. Not that volume and/or pressure remain constant. No the front of the speaker is open, obviously but the box in many cases is air tight. You probably came into the conversation late and are missing the key points. Previous posts indicated the need for a vented port so that the speaker would operate. I said that this was not true. There seemed to be some thoughts that a speaker would not operate if it had a sealed compartment behind it, which is not true. Agreed Leon - I did come into it late and maybe I misunderstood some points from the time I came in. I picked up on it where I thought I read that a sealed cabinet had a constant volume and that's where my initial comment entered. Sealed backs are one thing but there is no such thing as a speaker cabinet with a sealed compartment. At the very least, atmospheric pressure enters the chamber through the speaker cone. On second thought - maybe I really do not understand enough about speaker design to make the statement that I made above... -- -Mike- |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 2016-03-30, Mike Marlow wrote:
On second thought - maybe I really do not understand enough about speaker design to make the statement that I made above... BUT!!! ....we cannot possibly extend such an equally forgiving POV to ol' notbob. He's obviously wrong and not deserving of our forgiveness. Die, notbob! Die! (c'mon, Mike, ya' know you wanna say it) We having fun, yet? nb |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-30, Mike Marlow wrote: On second thought - maybe I really do not understand enough about speaker design to make the statement that I made above... BUT!!! ....we cannot possibly extend such an equally forgiving POV to ol' notbob. He's obviously wrong and not deserving of our forgiveness. Die, notbob! Die! (c'mon, Mike, ya' know you wanna say it) We having fun, yet? Dude - you are one sick puppy. -- -Mike- |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 2016-03-30, Mike Marlow wrote:
Dude - you are one sick puppy. Mike - I'm too old to be a "Dude" and I've never been a "puppy". I will admit my being "sick" is still in question, though. OTOH, if you wanna dog me in this newsgroup, I'm up for it. Despite having givin up this nonsense, years ago, the diminishing size of usenet has made me long for more interaction. Wanna be my dance partner? nb |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:RZadnZ9w85XqcWbLnZ2dnUU7-
: Nope, in a sealed speaker the same amount of air is in the enclosure regardless if the speaker cone is moving in or out. Not to beat a dead horse, but you are the one confused. Go look up Boyle's Law on Wikipedia. John |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 23:48:46 -0700, OFWW wrote:
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 21:48:19 -0400, krw wrote: On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 14:12:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 3/29/2016 1:20 PM, John McCoy wrote: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in b.com: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:d-ednSYZkf_9JmfLnZ2dnUU7- : That is not true either. Long ago many speakers were built to be air tight. Case in point many subwolfers use a driver speaker and a slave speaker inside the same enclosure. The whole speaker assembly is dependent on being air tight for the slave speaker to function and produce sound. What would the slave speaker tend to look like? Basically like a speaker without a magnet? I picked up a speaker from Walmart that had one real speaker and one that kinda looked like a decoy or fake speaker. Slave speaker is a special case - in that case the slave is moving outward when the driven speaker is moving inward, and vice-versa, so the volume of air inside the enclosure doesn't change. The air volume does not change in a sealed speaker either. The pressure does change but not the volume. The volume of air obviously changes as the volume increases. ;-) The quantity of air is constant, the pressure is changing, so the volume must change (inversely). Remember, the speaker cone is moving. Yet if there is no vent the volume of air does not change, only the pressure changes. So the sound is dampened in that the speaker is not free to fully travel, unless it is a metal coned speaker. I believe that is what Leon was referring to. If there is no vent, of course the volume changes. The speaker cone moves, so the volume *has* to change. The air trapped inside the box is the spring for the cone. This is an "acoustic suspension" speaker (and they work quite well). With two driven speakers, if the enclosure is airtight you're compressing (or decompressing) the air in the enclosure, which is generating a force opposing the way the speaker is being driven. Not so if the speakers are air tight in their own compartments inside the speaker housing, which apparently is how my center speaker with 2, 5" speakers is set up. How much force depends on how big the speaker is, and how much volume is in the enclosure. If your enclosure is small, it can have an appreciable effect. John |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 10:09:55 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 3/30/2016 9:47 AM, John McCoy wrote: OFWW wrote in : On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 21:48:19 -0400, krw wrote: On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 14:12:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: The air volume does not change in a sealed speaker either. The pressure does change but not the volume. The volume of air obviously changes as the volume increases. ;-) The quantity of air is constant, the pressure is changing, so the volume must change (inversely). Remember, the speaker cone is moving. Yet if there is no vent the volume of air does not change, only the pressure changes. So the sound is dampened in that the speaker is not free to fully travel, unless it is a metal coned speaker. I believe that is what Leon was referring to. Eh? You guys are trying to re-write the laws of physics here. Boyle's gas law applies, p1v1 = p2v2, just as krw said. This is not complicated - assume there is a speaker in a sealed box. The speaker cone moves as it's being driven with the audio signal. As the cone moves outward, the volume inside the box increases, and the pressure decreases. As it moves inwards, the volume in the box decreases and the pressure increases. Nope, in a sealed speaker the same amount of air is in the enclosure regardless if the speaker cone is moving in or out. What you are confusing is displacement. The measurable area, not air volume, inside the speaker changes but not the volume of air. Air easily compressed and decompresses, that does not decrease the volume of air. The same "amount" of air is in the box but the *volume* is not constant. The pressure is the inverse of the volume (for the given "amount" of air trapped in the box. As noted (several times) whether these changes are significant depends on the size of the box relative to the speaker. John |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
Mike Marlow wrote in
: Mike Marlow wrote: Agreed Leon - I did come into it late and maybe I misunderstood some points from the time I came in. I picked up on it where I thought I read that a sealed cabinet had a constant volume and that's where my initial comment entered. Sealed backs are one thing but there is no such thing as a speaker cabinet with a sealed compartment. At the very least, atmospheric pressure enters the chamber through the speaker cone. On second thought - maybe I really do not understand enough about speaker design to make the statement that I made above... I do know that Soundtraxx Mini-oval speakers have an enclosure that the speaker fits tightly into, magnet side out. There is no hole for a vent in that enclosure, nor is one needed. At the same time, though, realize the dimensions of the speaker & enclosure are only about 8mm by 20mm. Sometimes rules change as things get smaller. Puckdropper |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
John McCoy wrote: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:RZadnZ9w85XqcWbLnZ2dnUU7- : Nope, in a sealed speaker the same amount of air is in the enclosure regardless if the speaker cone is moving in or out. Not to beat a dead horse, but you are the one confused. Go look up Boyle's Law on Wikipedia. John Regardless, boules law has nothing to do with a speaker working correctly whether it is ported or whether it is an air suspension/acoustical style speaker. Your earlier comments indicated that speakers had to be ported to equalize air pressure on both sides of the speaker unless the enclosure was large and the speakers were small. That simply is not true. |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/30/2016 5:40 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
On second thought - maybe I really do not understand enough about speaker design to make the statement that I made above... Yep, and I built my own bass cabinets, as well as a few for others back when I was young, and sexy, enough to lug an Ampex SVT head around. Most of the speaker cabinets I built contained 15" woofers, moved a lot of air, and were baffled/ported" very precisely according to speaker cabinet gurus I knew when doing studio work, as well as some being direct copies of well known speaker cabinets ... much like I would reproduce a chair for someone these days. There is ton of physics that goes into designing a pleasing sounding speaker ... with a bit of magic thrown. My studio was a (paid) test bed for many of the more well known studio speakers down through the years. I can say yeah or nay for the sound, but certainly wouldn't presume to expound definitely on the physics, particularly when it comes to the highly dynamic volume/pressures of air, inside and out, therefore the precise "porting" requirements, in order to tune certain types of speakers to a very specific frequency for desired bass reproduction. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
On 3/30/2016 5:24 PM, Leon wrote:
No the front of the speaker is open, obviously but the box in many cases is air tight. You probably came into the conversation late and are missing the key points. Yep ... the idea of sealed enclosure speakers, a very specific type of speaker design, is to allow the air behind the speaker to act pretty much like a spring, which helps control the movement of the speaker within its design limits. It would have to be (relatively) "sealed" in order to do so. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Raspberry Pi Case
Leon wrote in
: Your earlier comments indicated that speakers had to be ported to equalize air pressure on both sides of the speaker unless the enclosure was large and the speakers were small. That simply is not true. What I actually said (regardless of what you think I "indicated") was that you won't get as much sound if the case isn't vented. Which is simply true and always will be (except, as krw pointed out, in the special case of air suspension speakers). Actually, there is another special case - if the enclosure is thin enough to flex. In that case the enclosure itself will act like a slave speaker. This tends to sound really awful. John |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Raspberry pi 3 | UK diy | |||
OT New Raspberry Pi 0 £4 !!! | UK diy | |||
Connecting a Raspberry Pi to an old TV | UK diy | |||
DIY ideas for Raspberry Pi? | UK diy | |||
Raspberry Pi Feedback | UK diy |