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Default Router bit for through mortise?

OK. Now I've got the plunge router. But can someone clue me in on upcut,
downcut and compression?

I don't think I need the full primer; I get the basic concept of each. I
assume I'll be cutting my through mortises from the side that will show.
Thus I'll need the "up" side to be a clean cut. I read that that downcut
is better for that, it doesn't have as much tendency to split the wood
at the edge. But I'll be cutting through 1.5". It it "bad" to be pushing
the chips down in that situation? Or perhaps there's plenty of chip room
because of the oval hole? (Of course I won't attempt to go through the
whole depth at once). And is there any need for a compression bit here?

One last thing. I haven't even settled on the type of wood yet, but it
may end up being Oak. Can I assume that only Carbide is of any use? Can
I further assume that only Carbide is of any use for *any* router task?

Ignorant minds want to know.

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Default Router bit for through mortise?


"Greg Guarino" wrote in message
...
OK. Now I've got the plunge router. But can someone clue me in on upcut,
downcut and compression?

I don't think I need the full primer; I get the basic concept of each. I
assume I'll be cutting my through mortises from the side that will show.
Thus I'll need the "up" side to be a clean cut. I read that that downcut
is better for that, it doesn't have as much tendency to split the wood at
the edge. But I'll be cutting through 1.5". It it "bad" to be pushing the
chips down in that situation? Or perhaps there's plenty of chip room
because of the oval hole? (Of course I won't attempt to go through the
whole depth at once). And is there any need for a compression bit here?

One last thing. I haven't even settled on the type of wood yet, but it may
end up being Oak. Can I assume that only Carbide is of any use? Can I
further assume that only Carbide is of any use for *any* router task?

Ignorant minds want to know.


Upcut, with some woods (not oak,) can leave a fuzzy edge, never had it
chip/spit anything. It helps hold wood to router but that can also pull the
bit out of the collet a bit.

Downcut has to keep cutting the chips if not a through hole, clear them
often.

Easiest/best(?) is to drill/saw ot most of the hole and clean it up with the
router. spiral or straight bit.


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Default Router bit for through mortise?

On 4/11/2015 7:49 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
OK. Now I've got the plunge router. But can someone clue me in on upcut,
downcut and compression?

I don't think I need the full primer; I get the basic concept of each. I
assume I'll be cutting my through mortises from the side that will show.
Thus I'll need the "up" side to be a clean cut. I read that that downcut
is better for that, it doesn't have as much tendency to split the wood
at the edge. But I'll be cutting through 1.5". It it "bad" to be pushing
the chips down in that situation? Or perhaps there's plenty of chip room
because of the oval hole? (Of course I won't attempt to go through the
whole depth at once). And is there any need for a compression bit here?

One last thing. I haven't even settled on the type of wood yet, but it
may end up being Oak. Can I assume that only Carbide is of any use? Can
I further assume that only Carbide is of any use for *any* router task?

Ignorant minds want to know.

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There are no hard and fast rules. Sometimes you have to break the rules
but here goes:

in plunge hand held:

upcut is for
mortising
drilling holes

down cut is for
preventing tearout
with a bearing for triming veneer

Compression
For triming veneer on both sides when using a straight edge or pattern.


In table mounted router reverse the up and down..

There's more, but its really based on the task and the whether you are
clearing chips, or protecting tear out.





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Default Router bit for through mortise?

Greg Guarino wrote in
:

But I'll be cutting through 1.5". It it "bad" to be pushing
the chips down in that situation? Or perhaps there's plenty of chip
room because of the oval hole? (Of course I won't attempt to go
through the whole depth at once).


Basically, yes. The advantage of the upcut bit is that it
throws the chips out of the hole. Anything else, and you'll
have to stop every so often and clear the chips out (which
is how it was done in the old days, when we only had straight
bits).

And is there any need for a compression bit here?


No - that's for when you need to cut both sides of an edge
at the same time.

Can
I further assume that only Carbide is of any use for *any* router
task?


That would be my opinion. Can you even buy HSS bits now?
I can't see any reason not to use carbide bits for all
purposes.

John
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Default Router bit for through mortise?

On 4/11/2015 6:49 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
OK. Now I've got the plunge router. But can someone clue me in on upcut,
downcut and compression?

I don't think I need the full primer; I get the basic concept of each. I
assume I'll be cutting my through mortises from the side that will show.
Thus I'll need the "up" side to be a clean cut. I read that that downcut
is better for that, it doesn't have as much tendency to split the wood
at the edge. But I'll be cutting through 1.5". It it "bad" to be pushing
the chips down in that situation? Or perhaps there's plenty of chip room
because of the oval hole? (Of course I won't attempt to go through the
whole depth at once). And is there any need for a compression bit here?

One last thing. I haven't even settled on the type of wood yet, but it
may end up being Oak. Can I assume that only Carbide is of any use? Can
I further assume that only Carbide is of any use for *any* router task?

Ignorant minds want to know.

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Way back when, I used to make mouth blocks for Steven Knight. HE built
wooden hand palnes and I manufactured that part for him by the
thousands. They amounted to a piece if "Ipe" wood 3/8" thick, 2" widem
3.5" long and had 2 through 3/8" wide slots about 2" long and a 45
degree bevel on one end.

I Holding these pieces I plunged these down on to the router table and
on to the router bit and slid the piece along the fence. I would do
about 400 slots in one job.

Any way I burned through several carbide straight bits with each
session. Then, one day a machinist neighbor brought me a 3/8" 4 flute
HSS end mill bit. I never replaced a that bit and it cut probably 1200
slots with no indication of dulling. These things are designed to mill
steel, Milling wood is childs play for these type bits.

Having said that there are regular plunge slot cutting bits that have a
point on the end. These type bits will do a much better job of plunge
cutting if all your slots will be through slots.

If you plunge deep holes you want as large of a bit as possible to
prevent deflection. You also want up cut as a deep hole will clog and
cause burning and smoking if you use a regular straight bit and or down cut.

If it were me I would get a HSS 4 flute end mill bit. Less expensive
than a regular carbide router bit.

Keep in mind these often come in shank sizes like drill bits. You are
going to need to buy a size that fits your collect. I used a 3/8"
adapter in my 1/2" collect.

Here is a double ended end mill bit. Also keep in mind length...

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...MPXNO=28077443








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Default Router bit for through mortise?

On Sat, 11 Apr 2015 11:09:21 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Any way I burned through several carbide straight bits with each
session. Then, one day a machinist neighbor brought me a 3/8" 4
flute HSS end mill bit. I never replaced a that bit and it cut
probably 1200 slots with no indication of dulling. These things are
designed to mill steel, Milling wood is childs play for these type
bits.


this is very useful info

Having said that there are regular plunge slot cutting bits that have
a point on the end. These type bits will do a much better job of
plunge cutting if all your slots will be through slots.


also useful


If you plunge deep holes you want as large of a bit as possible to
prevent deflection. You also want up cut as a deep hole will clog
and cause burning and smoking if you use a regular straight bit and
or down cut.


so far everything you've said means that they should use a 4 flute
end mill bit (not the pointed plunge slot bit)

http://vimeo.com/105610468

i think they use a 1/2-inch shank 1/4-inch router bit but would benefit
by using the 4 flute end mill bit

benefits are
cheaper initial price
plus ability perform a lot more work over its lifetime

all good things and maybe other benefits like
better swath cleanout as it goes and
improved accuracy at 60inch/minute cut rate














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Default Router bit for through mortise?


"John McCoy" wrote in message
. ..
Greg Guarino wrote in
:


Can
I further assume that only Carbide is of any use for *any* router
task?


That would be my opinion. Can you even buy HSS bits now?


Sure.

I can't see any reason not to use carbide bits for all
purposes.


I can think of some reasons...
1. Easy to sharpen, depending on profile.
2. Sharper than carbide
3. Cheaper than carbide? Used to be true, don't know about now but not a
bif deal.

I have a few HSS bits, some more than 40 years old. Obviously, I don't use
them all that often anymore. The exception is some HSS spiral bits...I use
them when I want the very best cuts.

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Default Router bit for through mortise?

On 4/11/15 10:09 AM, Leon wrote:
On 4/11/2015 6:49 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
OK. Now I've got the plunge router. But can someone clue me in on upcut,
downcut and compression?


snip

If it were me I would get a HSS 4 flute end mill bit. Less expensive
than a regular carbide router bit.

Keep in mind these often come in shank sizes like drill bits. You are
going to need to buy a size that fits your collect. I used a 3/8"
adapter in my 1/2" collect.

Here is a double ended end mill bit. Also keep in mind length...

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...MPXNO=28077443




Be aware that many (most?) 4-flute end mills are not designed for
plunging (in metal). Their tips usually don't have cutting surfaces that
meet at the center of the bit. Plunge cutting is typically done with a
2-flute bit.
That aside, I have used a 4-flute end mill for cutting slots just like
Leon describes. I have nowhere near the mileage so I can't vouch for the
longevity, but the cuts were excellent and a price comparison between a
HSS spiral end mill versus a solid carbide router bit (or end mill) is
significant. I got burning if I tried to plunge straight (as expected),
but by doing a sliding start, basically sliding the part sideways along
the cut line as I plunged, solved that issue.
-BR












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Default Router bit for through mortise?

On 4/11/2015 12:09 PM, Leon wrote:
If it were me I would get a HSS 4 flute end mill bit. Less expensive
than a regular carbide router bit.


I've heard this before and am looking into it, especially as I may have
outsmarted myself a bit with the jig I built. (it's 3/4" thick) I'm
going to need a longer bit for the through holes; that, or a separate
jig for that purpose.

But I read things that confuse me about the ends of these bits;
specifically that they are not designed to cut "forward", only sideways.
Some of those accounts say they cut "forward" OK in wood, just not in
the metal they were designed for.

Did the bit you got have a different sort of end? Or does the relative
ease of cutting wood render the subject moot?

One more thing: The 3/8" adapter you used worked well? Is it just a
split tube or something like that? No worries about a secure grip on an
object spinning so fast?

OK, one more, more thing. I have done the very tiniest bit of metal
milling in the distant past. In those applications (aluminum) the speed
was lower. What speed did you use for wood routing?

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Default Router bit for through mortise?

On 4/13/2015 6:11 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

But I read things that confuse me about the ends of these bits;
specifically that they are not designed to cut "forward", only sideways.
Some of those accounts say they cut "forward" OK in wood, just not in
the metal they were designed for.

Did the bit you got have a different sort of end? Or does the relative
ease of cutting wood render the subject moot?

One more thing: The 3/8" adapter you used worked well? Is it just a
split tube or something like that? No worries about a secure grip on an
object spinning so fast?

OK, one more, more thing. I have done the very tiniest bit of metal
milling in the distant past. In those applications (aluminum) the speed
was lower. What speed did you use for wood routing?


Been using these extra long end mills from Travers Tools for routing
mortises over ten years.

The price will scare you, but you get what you pay for. I have cut
literally thousands of mortises with these, haven't had to buy but once,
and use them on both my Multi-Router, and plunge routers, at high speed,
and with Porter Cable collets:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...8 20426286658

Photo is so you can get the part numbers, otherwise it would take a
while to find the correct ones.

http://www.travers.com/342075-20-501...rch=20-501-170

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Default Router bit for through mortise?

On 4/13/2015 8:43 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/13/2015 6:11 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

But I read things that confuse me about the ends of these bits;
specifically that they are not designed to cut "forward", only sideways.
Some of those accounts say they cut "forward" OK in wood, just not in
the metal they were designed for.

Did the bit you got have a different sort of end? Or does the relative
ease of cutting wood render the subject moot?

One more thing: The 3/8" adapter you used worked well? Is it just a
split tube or something like that? No worries about a secure grip on an
object spinning so fast?

OK, one more, more thing. I have done the very tiniest bit of metal
milling in the distant past. In those applications (aluminum) the speed
was lower. What speed did you use for wood routing?


Been using these extra long end mills from Travers Tools for routing
mortises over ten years.

The price will scare you, but you get what you pay for. I have cut
literally thousands of mortises with these, haven't had to buy but once,
and use them on both my Multi-Router, and plunge routers, at high speed,
and with Porter Cable collets:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...8 20426286658


Photo is so you can get the part numbers, otherwise it would take a
while to find the correct ones.

http://www.travers.com/342075-20-501...rch=20-501-170

I see that those are center-cutting. I'm trying to determine if that's
necessary for wood use. And the price for 1/2" is pretty eye-popping. Do
you use an adapter for the 3/8" shank, or have you got a 3/8" chuck?
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Default Router bit for through mortise?

On 4/13/2015 6:11 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 4/11/2015 12:09 PM, Leon wrote:
If it were me I would get a HSS 4 flute end mill bit. Less expensive
than a regular carbide router bit.


I've heard this before and am looking into it, especially as I may have
outsmarted myself a bit with the jig I built. (it's 3/4" thick) I'm
going to need a longer bit for the through holes; that, or a separate
jig for that purpose.

But I read things that confuse me about the ends of these bits;
specifically that they are not designed to cut "forward", only sideways.
Some of those accounts say they cut "forward" OK in wood, just not in
the metal they were designed for.


I have to wonder what the difference between forward and sideways is.




Did the bit you got have a different sort of end? Or does the relative
ease of cutting wood render the subject moot?


The neighbor that gave me the bit knew what I was looking for an brought
me this bit.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/16512586204/

I will say this however the piece of Ipe that I was holding and plunging
was trapped so that it could not go too far in either direction against
the router table fence. I also had the bit about 1/2" above the table.
I put one end of the wood against one stop and pressed the opposite
end down onto the spinning bit. So, the bit engaged the wood at a
slight angle until the wood was all the way down on the table top and
then I pushed the piece towards the other stop.
Going in at a slight angle may have aided the plunge.
As the bit was about to penetrate the top surface of the wood it would
often throw out a 3/8" round plug of smoking wood. ;~)
While the bit would look charred after a run of dado's, 200+, it would
always clean up except for the slight tarnish that you see in the
picture. The bit pretty much shows no signs of wear.



One more thing: The 3/8" adapter you used worked well? Is it just a
split tube or something like that? No worries about a secure grip on an
object spinning so fast?


Yes it worked well, it was a slip in adapter, 1/2" down to 3/8" I even
have a similar adapter to go to 1/4" and us that one pretty often.



OK, one more, more thing. I have done the very tiniest bit of metal
milling in the distant past. In those applications (aluminum) the speed
was lower. What speed did you use for wood routing?


I do not recall but it was not slow. May have been wide open as smaller
bits need to run faster.




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Default Router bit for through mortise?

On 4/13/2015 9:48 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 4/13/2015 8:43 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/13/2015 6:11 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

But I read things that confuse me about the ends of these bits;
specifically that they are not designed to cut "forward", only sideways.
Some of those accounts say they cut "forward" OK in wood, just not in
the metal they were designed for.

Did the bit you got have a different sort of end? Or does the relative
ease of cutting wood render the subject moot?

One more thing: The 3/8" adapter you used worked well? Is it just a
split tube or something like that? No worries about a secure grip on an
object spinning so fast?

OK, one more, more thing. I have done the very tiniest bit of metal
milling in the distant past. In those applications (aluminum) the speed
was lower. What speed did you use for wood routing?


Been using these extra long end mills from Travers Tools for routing
mortises over ten years.

The price will scare you, but you get what you pay for. I have cut
literally thousands of mortises with these, haven't had to buy but once,
and use them on both my Multi-Router, and plunge routers, at high speed,
and with Porter Cable collets:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...8 20426286658



Photo is so you can get the part numbers, otherwise it would take a
while to find the correct ones.

http://www.travers.com/342075-20-501...rch=20-501-170

I see that those are center-cutting. I'm trying to determine if that's
necessary for wood use. And the price for 1/2" is pretty eye-popping. Do
you use an adapter for the 3/8" shank, or have you got a 3/8" chuck?


FWIW "I don't think" normal straight cut bits are centering... I'm not
so sure how important that is, if I have an understanding of the
centering function. Maybe center cut means you can cut with the side of
the bit vs. just the tip.

Also the bit on the second link above is carbide. Mine is HSS and has
held up far better than any carbide bit I have had and it has only been
used on Ipe. Ipe is about 2.5 times harder than oak.



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On 4/13/2015 11:04 AM, Leon wrote:
On 4/13/2015 9:48 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 4/13/2015 8:43 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/13/2015 6:11 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

But I read things that confuse me about the ends of these bits;
specifically that they are not designed to cut "forward", only
sideways.
Some of those accounts say they cut "forward" OK in wood, just not in
the metal they were designed for.

Did the bit you got have a different sort of end? Or does the relative
ease of cutting wood render the subject moot?

One more thing: The 3/8" adapter you used worked well? Is it just a
split tube or something like that? No worries about a secure grip on an
object spinning so fast?

OK, one more, more thing. I have done the very tiniest bit of metal
milling in the distant past. In those applications (aluminum) the speed
was lower. What speed did you use for wood routing?

Been using these extra long end mills from Travers Tools for routing
mortises over ten years.

The price will scare you, but you get what you pay for. I have cut
literally thousands of mortises with these, haven't had to buy but once,
and use them on both my Multi-Router, and plunge routers, at high speed,
and with Porter Cable collets:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...8 20426286658




Photo is so you can get the part numbers, otherwise it would take a
while to find the correct ones.

http://www.travers.com/342075-20-501...rch=20-501-170

I see that those are center-cutting. I'm trying to determine if that's
necessary for wood use. And the price for 1/2" is pretty eye-popping. Do
you use an adapter for the 3/8" shank, or have you got a 3/8" chuck?


FWIW "I don't think" normal straight cut bits are centering... I'm not
so sure how important that is, if I have an understanding of the
centering function. Maybe center cut means you can cut with the side of
the bit vs. just the tip.

Also the bit on the second link above is carbide. Mine is HSS and has
held up far better than any carbide bit I have had and it has only been
used on Ipe. Ipe is about 2.5 times harder than oak.



Here's what I found, which seems to mirror my (slight) understanding of it:

"An end mills end cut type is either center cutting or non-center
cutting. Center-cutting end mills can create three-dimensional shapes
and profiles, and make plunge cuts similar to a drill bit.
Non-center-cutting end mills are suitable for peripheral milling and
finishing, but cannot make plunge cuts."

In other words, "non-center-cutting" can cut by plunging into the
material, like a drill bit. It can also cut by moving the bit from side
to side. "Non-center-cutting" is intended to cut ONLY on the sides, with
"X-Y" motions, no up and down plunging. At least that's the case for metal.
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On 4/13/2015 10:23 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 4/13/2015 11:04 AM, Leon wrote:
On 4/13/2015 9:48 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 4/13/2015 8:43 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/13/2015 6:11 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

But I read things that confuse me about the ends of these bits;
specifically that they are not designed to cut "forward", only
sideways.
Some of those accounts say they cut "forward" OK in wood, just not in
the metal they were designed for.

Did the bit you got have a different sort of end? Or does the relative
ease of cutting wood render the subject moot?

One more thing: The 3/8" adapter you used worked well? Is it just a
split tube or something like that? No worries about a secure grip
on an
object spinning so fast?

OK, one more, more thing. I have done the very tiniest bit of metal
milling in the distant past. In those applications (aluminum) the
speed
was lower. What speed did you use for wood routing?

Been using these extra long end mills from Travers Tools for routing
mortises over ten years.

The price will scare you, but you get what you pay for. I have cut
literally thousands of mortises with these, haven't had to buy but
once,
and use them on both my Multi-Router, and plunge routers, at high
speed,
and with Porter Cable collets:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...8 20426286658





Photo is so you can get the part numbers, otherwise it would take a
while to find the correct ones.

http://www.travers.com/342075-20-501...rch=20-501-170

I see that those are center-cutting. I'm trying to determine if that's
necessary for wood use. And the price for 1/2" is pretty eye-popping. Do
you use an adapter for the 3/8" shank, or have you got a 3/8" chuck?


FWIW "I don't think" normal straight cut bits are centering... I'm not
so sure how important that is, if I have an understanding of the
centering function. Maybe center cut means you can cut with the side of
the bit vs. just the tip.

Also the bit on the second link above is carbide. Mine is HSS and has
held up far better than any carbide bit I have had and it has only been
used on Ipe. Ipe is about 2.5 times harder than oak.



Here's what I found, which seems to mirror my (slight) understanding of it:

"An end mills end cut type is either center cutting or non-center
cutting. Center-cutting end mills can create three-dimensional shapes
and profiles, and make plunge cuts similar to a drill bit.
Non-center-cutting end mills are suitable for peripheral milling and
finishing, but cannot make plunge cuts."

In other words, "non-center-cutting" can cut by plunging into the
material, like a drill bit. It can also cut by moving the bit from side
to side. "Non-center-cutting" is intended to cut ONLY on the sides, with
"X-Y" motions, no up and down plunging. At least that's the case for metal.



That is how I would understand it and makes sense.


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Default Router bit for through mortise?

Greg Guarino wrote:

I see that those are center-cutting. I'm trying to determine if that's
necessary for wood use. And the price for 1/2" is pretty eye-popping.


You do know that you can cut mortices with plain jane straight bits, right?
Easiest if most of the area is drilled out and just cleaned up with the
straight bit but they can do the whole thing. And there are numerous that
are pretty long.

If you just gotta have spiral, here are some that are - perhaps - a bit less
less eye-popping.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/J...outer-Bit.aspx

http://www.carbideprocessors.com/sea...bit&x =12&y=5

And, of course...
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...ral+router+bit


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Default Router bit for through mortise?

dadiOH wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:

I see that those are center-cutting. I'm trying to determine if
that's necessary for wood use. And the price for 1/2" is pretty
eye-popping.


You do know that you can cut mortices with plain jane straight bits,
right? Easiest if most of the area is drilled out and just cleaned up with
the straight bit but they can do the whole thing. And there are numerous
that are pretty long.

If you just gotta have spiral, here are some that are - perhaps - a
bit less less eye-popping.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/J...outer-Bit.aspx

http://www.carbideprocessors.com/sea...bit&x =12&y=5

And, of course...
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...ral+router+bit


Or even these. One of each, just $14.95
Harbor Freight has the same thing.
http://www.amazon.com/Drill-Master-S...ral+router+bit


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Default Router bit for through mortise?

On 4/13/2015 1:28 PM, dadiOH wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:

I see that those are center-cutting. I'm trying to determine if
that's necessary for wood use. And the price for 1/2" is pretty
eye-popping.


You do know that you can cut mortices with plain jane straight bits,
right? Easiest if most of the area is drilled out and just cleaned up with
the straight bit but they can do the whole thing. And there are numerous
that are pretty long.

If you just gotta have spiral, here are some that are - perhaps - a
bit less less eye-popping.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/J...outer-Bit.aspx

http://www.carbideprocessors.com/sea...bit&x =12&y=5

And, of course...
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...ral+router+bit


Or even these. One of each, just $14.95
Harbor Freight has the same thing.
http://www.amazon.com/Drill-Master-S...ral+router+bit


I have those. At that price I figured I could do my experiments at
least. They might not last but the cut seems clean enough with the 1/2".
But they aren't quite long enough to make through-mortises in 1.5"
stock, given the thickness of the jig I made.
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Default Router bit for through mortise?

On 4/13/2015 10:23 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
Here's what I found, which seems to mirror my (slight) understanding of it:



Non-center-cutting end mills are suitable for peripheral milling and
finishing, but cannot make plunge cuts."

In other words, "non-center-cutting" can cut by plunging into the
material, like a drill bit.


Does that sentence not contradict what you just said in the first above,
or did I miss something?

In any even, IME, all this is basically irrelevant to the woodworking
application for routing mortises.

Years ago I switched to "end mills" for routing mortises for one reason,
and one reason only:

_there were no router bits made, at the time, long enough to do many of
the mortises I wanted to do_

I called Travers and asked to talk to one of their engineers, not a
salesman.

The upshot is I've been following Traver's expert advice on which end
mills to use for over a decade of cutting mortises, with both various
jigs and plunge router, and later the Multi-Router.

Real life experience, thousands of mortises, no problems, and no one
else's GoogleFu to have to rely on ... the one's in the photo work, and
I have yet to have to buy another in all that time.

Do you use an adapter for the 3/8" shank, or have you got a 3/8"
chuck?


3/8" router collets are readily available and easy to find.

For the 5/16" end mills, I use an 8mm collet, which are also easy to find.


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Default Router bit for through mortise?

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

I have to wonder what the difference between forward and sideways is.


In a metal working context, "forward" is into the work, and
"sideways" is across the work.

It comes from lathe work, but machinests seem to use the same
wording for mill work too.

John


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On 4/13/2015 5:04 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/13/2015 10:23 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
Here's what I found, which seems to mirror my (slight) understanding
of it:



Non-center-cutting end mills are suitable for peripheral milling and
finishing, but cannot make plunge cuts."

In other words, "non-center-cutting" can cut by plunging into the
material, like a drill bit.


Does that sentence not contradict what you just said in the first above,
or did I miss something?


Oops. Yup, that should have read:

In other words, "center-cutting" can cut by plunging into the
material, like a drill bit.


I found a good diagram that shows the difference:

http://www.hsmworks.com/docs/cncbook/en/#Ch03_EndMills

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