I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg

This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps31a11295.jpg

I don't know that I want to clean up 100 tenons although forcing it together does make for a really tight joint. :-)

On 1/27/2015 10:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg

This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps31a11295.jpg

I don't know that I want to clean up 100 tenons although forcing it together does make for a really tight joint. :-)




It does not look like a very square cut. Yes, it could be the blade.
You have options thouch. Easiest is to buy a good blade, such as Ridge
Carbide, Forrest, Infinity. Another is to take the bulk of the material
out with your blade and clean it up with a good combination blade.

Not cheap though
http://ridgecarbidetool.com/dado-set...do-master.html

On 1/27/2015 8:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg

This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps31a11295.jpg

I don't know that I want to clean up 100 tenons although forcing it together does make for a really tight joint. :-)




Got a good sharp chisel? ;-)

On 1/27/2015 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg


That is the result you get with a wobble dado set. Yes even with two
blades you get a rounded bottom.

You either need "good dado set" or cut them as I mentioned earlier with
a straight bit in the router table.




This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps31a11295.jpg

I don't know that I want to clean up 100 tenons although forcing it together does make for a really tight joint. :-)

Sand paper wrapped around a block of wood and elbow grease. And you are
going to need to cut them equal in length on both sides or the joint
will not close.

"DerbyDad03" wrote:

I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I
think may need to buy a stacked dado set.
------------------------------------
Yep.
---------------------------------
I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:
-----------------------------------------------
You just proved what Leon told you.

It's a wobble, not a true stacked dado like the SD-508.

Lew

On 1/27/2015 10:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg

This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps31a11295.jpg

I don't know that I want to clean up 100 tenons although forcing it together does make for a really tight joint. :-)



Yep, a wobbler dado does that.
You do want a stacked dado, or a router setup to cope them.

--
Jeff

I've had the Excalibur for about twenty years, and have yet to find a
use for it. As you found out, it cuts a dado with a curved bottom. The
wider you adjust it, the worse the curve. Also, the width varies with
the tightness of the arbor nut, so it is very difficult to set a precise
width. It's been through two garage sales and a month on Craigslist, and
the damned thing is still collecting dust in my shop.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I
think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg

This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps31a11295.jpg

I don't know that I want to clean up 100 tenons although forcing it
together does make for a really tight joint. :-)

Easiest to clean on a router table but I would just cut them with a
regular blade in the first place. True, there would be twice as many cuts
but still less if one considers cleaning with a router.

My question is, why are you cutting the tenon in that direction? ISTR
that you are doing kitchen doors and were wanting T & G? If that is the
case, you would want a tenon centered along the length of the end,
shoulders on each face of the wood.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 5:44:51 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I
think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg

This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps31a11295.jpg

I don't know that I want to clean up 100 tenons although forcing it
together does make for a really tight joint. :-)

Easiest to clean on a router table but I would just cut them with a
regular blade in the first place. True, there would be twice as many cuts
but still less if one considers cleaning with a router.


My question is, why are you cutting the tenon in that direction? ISTR
that you are doing kitchen doors and were wanting T & G? If that is the
case, you would want a tenon centered along the length of the end,
shoulders on each face of the wood.



You may have misinterpreted the picture I posted. I took the shot from above to show the shoulders left by the wobble dado.

Here is the sample door I made:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps18fb3cf8.jpg

On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 10:36:20 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/27/2015 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg


That is the result you get with a wobble dado set. Yes even with two
blades you get a rounded bottom.

You either need "good dado set" or cut them as I mentioned earlier with
a straight bit in the router table.

Yeah, I'm still wobbling (pun intended) between dropping the bucks for a good dado blade or buying the less expensive T&G bit set from MLCS. I guess a dado blade would be the better investment i.e. more options for future use.



This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps31a11295.jpg

I don't know that I want to clean up 100 tenons although forcing it together does make for a really tight joint. :-)

Sand paper wrapped around a block of wood and elbow grease. And you are
going to need to cut them equal in length on both sides or the joint
will not close.

Yes, the picture I posted was not of the best (of the bad) tenons that I cut. Things got better as I moved along. It's a good thing I've got lots of scraps from the drawer cutoffs. ;-)

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps18fb3cf8.jpg

On 1/27/2015 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

Too bad. Tkat's much more cove than you would normally get with a well
made, properly set up and mounted, two bladed wobble dado in good shape.

If you took the time to set it up properly and it makes that much cove
in 1/2", it is indeed a POS, so toss it.

Sorry it didn't work out for you, but I got the impression, since you
had a new router table, that you didn't want to spring for a stacked
dado set, so it was worth a try, eh?

Lots of ways to clean that up, low angle block plane, pattern makers
rasp, router table/straight bit, table saw with regular kerf blade, for
starters.

The only question is/was - do you want to take the time to clean them
up, or spend the money on a quality tool?

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 8:31:25 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2015 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

Too bad. Tkat's much more cove than you would normally get with a well
made, properly set up and mounted, two bladed wobble dado in good shape.

If you took the time to set it up properly and it makes that much cove
in 1/2", it is indeed a POS, so toss it.

The only "set-up" option I think I have is to reduce the width of the dado to the bare minimum required to cut the tenon and still use the fence as the length guide. That should reduce the wobble, but I don't know if it will be enough. It was getting late by the time I tested the Excalibur and I didn't want to spend any more time on it. The dog wanted to go out before bed and didn't seem to care that I was busy. I'll try again tonight.


Sorry it didn't work out for you, but I got the impression, since you
had a new router table, that you didn't want to spring for a stacked
dado set, so it was worth a try, eh?

Yes, it was definitely worth a try, but now that I've actually cut a stub tenon on the table saw, I can see that the method has it's merits. In addition, owning a decent dado blade has it's advantages too. However, I don't know that I can justify $200 for a Freud SD508. What are your thoughts on a SD208 for $85?

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-...eud+sd508+dado



Lots of ways to clean that up, low angle block plane, pattern makers
rasp, router table/straight bit, table saw with regular kerf blade, for
starters.

The only question is/was - do you want to take the time to clean them
up, or spend the money on a quality tool?


I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality, or something in between?

On 1/28/2015 7:31 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2015 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I
think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

Too bad. Tkat's much more cove than you would normally get with a well
made, properly set up and mounted, two bladed wobble dado in good shape.

If you took the time to set it up properly and it makes that much cove
in 1/2", it is indeed a POS, so toss it.

Sorry it didn't work out for you, but I got the impression, since you
had a new router table, that you didn't want to spring for a stacked
dado set, so it was worth a try, eh?

Lots of ways to clean that up, low angle block plane, pattern makers
rasp, router table/straight bit, table saw with regular kerf blade, for
starters.

The only question is/was - do you want to take the time to clean them
up, or spend the money on a quality tool?

DerbyDad, there's an oft quoted adage around here "New project = New
Tool" please don't screw it up for the rest of us (as SWMBO actually
believes me when I tell her this) g

Swingman is correct. There are a number of ways to do this project
efficiently and properly. Choose one and move on (hopefully with a new
tool).

The only certain thing here is that a wobble dado blade ain't going to
cut it (pun intended). There are only two things - that I can name off
the top of my head - I would use a wobble dado for.

1) hogging a lot of wood away quickly so that I can move in and finish
the process with a plane, chisel or router bit, or

2)cutting a dado in a rail and stile to hold a panel in place. In this
instance the wobble should work just fine as the panel doesn't really
care if the bottom is curved or not and neither will you.

On 1/28/2015 8:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
However, I don't know that I can justify $200 for a Freud SD508. What are your thoughts on a SD208 for $85?

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-...eud+sd508+dado

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality, or something in between?

Depends upon how much you use a dado stack.

My guess, judging from your previous conversations, is that the less
expensive 208 will likely be all you need and will obviously do the job
MUCH better than that POS wobble you have.

Again, sorry the wobble blade didn't work out. My first dado blade was a
double wobble, as it was pretty much all that was available back then,
and you eventually learned to get relatively usable results out of it as
a matter of necessity, fussy, and some cleanup was needed, but that was
expected in those days.

While they are far from ideal compared to today's tools, don't believe
all the naysayers ... when there IS nothing else, some mighty fine work
can be done using one.

Just ask Norm ...

Needless to say, a couple of methods used I hesitate to mention because
of what would be considered safety issues these days.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message


My question is, why are you cutting the tenon in that direction? ISTR
that you are doing kitchen doors and were wanting T & G? If that is
the
case, you would want a tenon centered along the length of the end,
shoulders on each face of the wood.



You may have misinterpreted the picture I posted. I took the shot from
above to show the shoulders left by the wobble dado.

Yeah, my bad.

In another reply, you said you were going to reduce the width of the dado.
Good idea. If you had it set to way beyond the 1/4" you need, reducing it
to a hair over 1/4" will markedly reduce the curve.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 9:42:51 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 1/28/2015 8:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
However, I don't know that I can justify $200 for a Freud SD508. What are your thoughts on a SD208 for $85?

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-...eud+sd508+dado

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality, or something in between?

Depends upon how much you use a dado stack.

My guess, judging from your previous conversations, is that the less
expensive 208 will likely be all you need and will obviously do the job
MUCH better than that POS wobble you have.

....snip...

Maybe I'll split the difference. The DeWalt DW7670 has 24 teeth and 4 chippers, just like the SD508 but is $90 cheaper all-in with 20% off at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-H7200-S.../dp/B0002ZU6X4

Thoughts?

On 1/28/15 8:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question now
is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality, or
something in between?


Now, to throw more wrenches in the works....
I have the 208 and it does not cut perfectly flat. It leaves steps.
I talked to Freud about it and all they would say is that maybe my arbor
was worn, which was nonsense. My saw was fairly new at the time and
every blade I put on it fits tight as a drum. It also leaves "bat
ears*" on the edges of the cuts. *Google it.

Having said that, it cuts fine for everything I've needed, so far. If
I'm cutting on an area that "will show" I need to do some minor
clean-up. BUT, it's still way, way, way, way better than those wobble
sets. Way better.

I only say all that so you can be an informed buyer. The 208s are hard
to beat for under a hundred bucks. But they are far from perfect. If
you do want perfectly flat and squared cuts, you will have to spend more
money.

BTW, the guy at Freuds told me the Diablo and Freud sets are the same
exact blades with different paint jobs, just in case you see a Diablo
set for sale.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 11:32:01 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/28/15 8:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question now
is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality, or
something in between?


Now, to throw more wrenches in the works....
I have the 208 and it does not cut perfectly flat. It leaves steps.
I talked to Freud about it and all they would say is that maybe my arbor
was worn, which was nonsense. My saw was fairly new at the time and
every blade I put on it fits tight as a drum. It also leaves "bat
ears*" on the edges of the cuts. *Google it.

Having said that, it cuts fine for everything I've needed, so far. If
I'm cutting on an area that "will show" I need to do some minor
clean-up. BUT, it's still way, way, way, way better than those wobble
sets. Way better.

I only say all that so you can be an informed buyer. The 208s are hard
to beat for under a hundred bucks. But they are far from perfect. If
you do want perfectly flat and squared cuts, you will have to spend more
money.

BTW, the guy at Freuds told me the Diablo and Freud sets are the same
exact blades with different paint jobs, just in case you see a Diablo
set for sale.



Thanks for "informing this buyer". ;-)

I found this as a middle of the road option. There's a 20% discount available at Amazon, total price with tax is $117.

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-H7200-S.../dp/B0002ZU6X4

On 1/28/15 10:42 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 11:32:01 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/28/15 8:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question
now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality,
or something in between?


Now, to throw more wrenches in the works.... I have the 208 and it
does not cut perfectly flat. It leaves steps. I talked to Freud
about it and all they would say is that maybe my arbor was worn,
which was nonsense. My saw was fairly new at the time and every
blade I put on it fits tight as a drum. It also leaves "bat ears*"
on the edges of the cuts. *Google it.

Having said that, it cuts fine for everything I've needed, so far.
If I'm cutting on an area that "will show" I need to do some minor
clean-up. BUT, it's still way, way, way, way better than those
wobble sets. Way better.

I only say all that so you can be an informed buyer. The 208s are
hard to beat for under a hundred bucks. But they are far from
perfect. If you do want perfectly flat and squared cuts, you will
have to spend more money.

BTW, the guy at Freuds told me the Diablo and Freud sets are the
same exact blades with different paint jobs, just in case you see a
Diablo set for sale.



Thanks for "informing this buyer". ;-)

I found this as a middle of the road option. There's a 20% discount
available at Amazon, total price with tax is $117.

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-H7200-S.../dp/B0002ZU6X4


The reviews look really good. Hmmm.... Now I'm tempted. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/28/2015 10:16 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:


Maybe I'll split the difference. The DeWalt DW7670 has 24 teeth and 4 chippers, just like the SD508 but is $90 cheaper all-in with 20% off at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-H7200-S.../dp/B0002ZU6X4

Thoughts?


Can't say for sure unless I used it, but it is far better than what you
have. Considering the price difference and how much you will be using
it, probably a good buy. DeWalt is not the best, but is usually decent
and is certainly better than the really cheap stuff.

On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 11:50:21 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/28/15 10:42 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 11:32:01 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/28/15 8:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question
now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality,
or something in between?


Now, to throw more wrenches in the works.... I have the 208 and it
does not cut perfectly flat. It leaves steps. I talked to Freud
about it and all they would say is that maybe my arbor was worn,
which was nonsense. My saw was fairly new at the time and every
blade I put on it fits tight as a drum. It also leaves "bat ears*"
on the edges of the cuts. *Google it.

Having said that, it cuts fine for everything I've needed, so far.
If I'm cutting on an area that "will show" I need to do some minor
clean-up. BUT, it's still way, way, way, way better than those
wobble sets. Way better.

I only say all that so you can be an informed buyer. The 208s are
hard to beat for under a hundred bucks. But they are far from
perfect. If you do want perfectly flat and squared cuts, you will
have to spend more money.

BTW, the guy at Freuds told me the Diablo and Freud sets are the
same exact blades with different paint jobs, just in case you see a
Diablo set for sale.



Thanks for "informing this buyer". ;-)

I found this as a middle of the road option. There's a 20% discount
available at Amazon, total price with tax is $117.

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-H7200-S.../dp/B0002ZU6X4


The reviews look really good. Hmmm.... Now I'm tempted. :-)


--

-MIKE-


Of course, as soon as I click the "Payment" button at Amazon, someone in this group will post a link to a better dado set at a lower price. ;-)

On 1/28/2015 7:06 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 10:36:20 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/27/2015 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg


That is the result you get with a wobble dado set. Yes even with two
blades you get a rounded bottom.

You either need "good dado set" or cut them as I mentioned earlier with
a straight bit in the router table.

Yeah, I'm still wobbling (pun intended) between dropping the bucks for a good dado blade or buying the less expensive T&G bit set from MLCS. I guess a dado blade would be the better investment i.e. more options for future use.
There would be countless uses with a good dado set and having a good
dado set would give you the confidence, knowing that you will get food
grooves a dados, to perhaps tackle more complex projects.



This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps31a11295.jpg

I don't know that I want to clean up 100 tenons although forcing it together does make for a really tight joint. :-)

Sand paper wrapped around a block of wood and elbow grease. And you are
going to need to cut them equal in length on both sides or the joint
will not close.

Yes, the picture I posted was not of the best (of the bad) tenons that I cut. Things got better as I moved along. It's a good thing I've got lots of scraps from the drawer cutoffs. ;-)

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps18fb3cf8.jpg

On 1/28/2015 6:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Snip





You may have misinterpreted the picture I posted. I took the shot from above to show the shoulders left by the wobble dado.

Here is the sample door I made:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps18fb3cf8.jpg


That looks great.

On 1/28/2015 9:16 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 9:42:51 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 1/28/2015 8:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
However, I don't know that I can justify $200 for a Freud SD508. What are your thoughts on a SD208 for $85?

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-...eud+sd508+dado

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality, or something in between?

Depends upon how much you use a dado stack.

My guess, judging from your previous conversations, is that the less
expensive 208 will likely be all you need and will obviously do the job
MUCH better than that POS wobble you have.

...snip...

Maybe I'll split the difference. The DeWalt DW7670 has 24 teeth and 4 chippers, just like the SD508 but is $90 cheaper all-in with 20% off at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-H7200-S.../dp/B0002ZU6X4

Thoughts?


Keep in mind that some of the stacked dado sets have chippers that
sometimes cut deeper and or shallower. This can happen if the arbor
holes are close to a perfect on the arbor. The result is about as bad
as using a wobble blade.

AND should you have the dado set sharpened you want all to be ground to
the same diameter. Blades get a little bit shorter each time you
sharpen them and this will really show up on a stacked set.
I don't think you will every be sorry buying a quality dado set.

On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 2:15:42 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/28/2015 6:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Snip





You may have misinterpreted the picture I posted. I took the shot from above to show the shoulders left by the wobble dado.

Here is the sample door I made:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps18fb3cf8.jpg


That looks great.

Thanks...just don't look too close at the tenons. They have the offending shoulder caused by the wobble blade.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to order the DeWalt dado set from Amazon for $117. Much better then what I have now but it won't break the bank based on the about of work it will see.

On 1/28/2015 10:31 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/28/15 8:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question now
is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality, or
something in between?


Now, to throw more wrenches in the works....
I have the 208 and it does not cut perfectly flat. It leaves steps.
I talked to Freud about it and all they would say is that maybe my arbor
was worn, which was nonsense. My saw was fairly new at the time and
every blade I put on it fits tight as a drum. It also leaves "bat
ears*" on the edges of the cuts. *Google it.
The steps can be a result of the hole in the chipper not being close to
an exact fit on the arbor or if the set was not sharpened as a set.
Some chippers teeth could be longer or shorter.

My Forrest Dado King leaves ever so slight bat ears, I have not had any
issue with that.

On 1/28/2015 10:50 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/28/15 10:42 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 11:32:01 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/28/15 8:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question
now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality,
or something in between?


Now, to throw more wrenches in the works.... I have the 208 and it
does not cut perfectly flat. It leaves steps. I talked to Freud
about it and all they would say is that maybe my arbor was worn,
which was nonsense. My saw was fairly new at the time and every
blade I put on it fits tight as a drum. It also leaves "bat ears*"
on the edges of the cuts. *Google it.

Having said that, it cuts fine for everything I've needed, so far.
If I'm cutting on an area that "will show" I need to do some minor
clean-up. BUT, it's still way, way, way, way better than those
wobble sets. Way better.

I only say all that so you can be an informed buyer. The 208s are
hard to beat for under a hundred bucks. But they are far from
perfect. If you do want perfectly flat and squared cuts, you will
have to spend more money.

BTW, the guy at Freuds told me the Diablo and Freud sets are the
same exact blades with different paint jobs, just in case you see a
Diablo set for sale.



Thanks for "informing this buyer". ;-)

I found this as a middle of the road option. There's a 20% discount
available at Amazon, total price with tax is $117.

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-H7200-S.../dp/B0002ZU6X4


The reviews look really good. Hmmm.... Now I'm tempted. :-)


If that 20% coupon works on any thing you could get top of the line for
about $100 more for a 6" set and never look back.

http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-DK0624...rest+dado+king

On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 2:33:04 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/28/2015 10:50 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/28/15 10:42 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 11:32:01 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/28/15 8:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question
now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality,
or something in between?


Now, to throw more wrenches in the works.... I have the 208 and it
does not cut perfectly flat. It leaves steps. I talked to Freud
about it and all they would say is that maybe my arbor was worn,
which was nonsense. My saw was fairly new at the time and every
blade I put on it fits tight as a drum. It also leaves "bat ears*"
on the edges of the cuts. *Google it.

Having said that, it cuts fine for everything I've needed, so far.
If I'm cutting on an area that "will show" I need to do some minor
clean-up. BUT, it's still way, way, way, way better than those
wobble sets. Way better.

I only say all that so you can be an informed buyer. The 208s are
hard to beat for under a hundred bucks. But they are far from
perfect. If you do want perfectly flat and squared cuts, you will
have to spend more money.

BTW, the guy at Freuds told me the Diablo and Freud sets are the
same exact blades with different paint jobs, just in case you see a
Diablo set for sale.



Thanks for "informing this buyer". ;-)

I found this as a middle of the road option. There's a 20% discount
available at Amazon, total price with tax is $117.

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-H7200-S.../dp/B0002ZU6X4


The reviews look really good. Hmmm.... Now I'm tempted. :-)


If that 20% coupon works on any thing you could get top of the line for
about $100 more for a 6" set and never look back.

http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-DK0624...rest+dado+king

I quote from the Amazon page for the DeWalt Dado set:

"This Item is Included in Our DEWALT Accessories Promotion. From January 5, 2015, through March 31, 2015, you can get 10% off at checkout when you spend $25 or more on select DEWALT accessories shipped and sold by Amazon.com, or 20% off a purchase of $50 or more."

The promo is for DeWalt stuff only.

On 1/28/15 1:26 PM, Leon wrote:
The steps can be a result of the
hole in the chipper not being close to an exact fit on the arbor or
if the set was not sharpened as a set. Some chippers teeth could be
longer or shorter.


They weren't sharpened after purchase.
I tried to get across to the guy at Freud that there must be an
imperfection in a blade but all he seemed interested in was blaming my
saw.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"DerbyDad03" wrote:

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question
now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality,
or something in between?
-----------------------------------------------------
The old adage applies.

There is no such thing as a cheap tool.

There is the quality tool you buy once and move on to other tasks.

There is the low inital cost tool that doesn't quite do the job and
you
replace it with another low inital cost tool in hopes of solving the
quality issue. Sooner or later you buy the quality tool.

I bought the SD508 and yes it HURT at the time; however, knowing that
everytime I reach for the SD-508, it's going to do the job makes the
HURT go away a little faster.

Good luck.

Lew

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:

I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I
think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg

This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...0150127_205946
_zps31a11295.jpg

I don't know that I want to clean up 100 tenons although forcing it
together does make for a really tight joint. :-)

Like everyone else said, that's your dado set.

You need a shoulder plane to clean it up (ignore what anyone
else says, the only correct tool for cleaning up tenons is a
shoulder plane). You need a shoulder plane anyway, because
it's the only tool for fine-tuning tenons that are a tad thick,
or the shoulders don't perfectly line up, and you get those
problems every so often regardless of what you cut tenons
with.

You don't want to force tenons into mortices in poplar. Sooner
or later you'll split one of the morticed pieces. Poplar is
not very strong in that regard.

John

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:

I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I
think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg

This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...0150127_205946
_zps31a11295.jpg


Sometimes it is worth a quick reminder - when posting url's that are likely
to experience line wrap, and cause minor problems for people to just click
on, place your url within the and characters.

--

-Mike-

On 1/28/2015 1:50 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/28/15 1:26 PM, Leon wrote:
The steps can be a result of the
hole in the chipper not being close to an exact fit on the arbor or
if the set was not sharpened as a set. Some chippers teeth could be
longer or shorter.


They weren't sharpened after purchase.
I tried to get across to the guy at Freud that there must be an
imperfection in a blade but all he seemed interested in was blaming my
saw.




Sorry, I was not indicating that the blades had been resharpened so much
as improperly sharpened to begin with.

I would say that you cannot expect Freud to be helpful if you are
getting the results that "they" expect, for some people that is good enough.

On 1/27/15, 8:36 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/27/2015 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I
think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg


That is the result you get with a wobble dado set. Yes even with two
blades you get a rounded bottom.

You either need "good dado set" or cut them as I mentioned earlier with
a straight bit in the router table.



I'd do what Leon says (router table).

You have the bulk of the material already removed and once you dial in
the router setup, 100 tenons will go faster than most any other method
(plus you get a perfectly square part)

-BR

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On 1/28/15 11:31 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/28/2015 1:50 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/28/15 1:26 PM, Leon wrote:
The steps can be a result of the
hole in the chipper not being close to an exact fit on the arbor or
if the set was not sharpened as a set. Some chippers teeth could be
longer or shorter.


They weren't sharpened after purchase.
I tried to get across to the guy at Freud that there must be an
imperfection in a blade but all he seemed interested in was blaming my
saw.




Sorry, I was not indicating that the blades had been resharpened so much
as improperly sharpened to begin with.

I would say that you cannot expect Freud to be helpful if you are
getting the results that "they" expect, for some people that is good
enough.

True, very true.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/27/15 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I
think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...EA63ssEW4Q.jpg

This is what the stub tenon looks like:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps31a11295.jpg

I don't know that I want to clean up 100 tenons although forcing it
together does make for a really tight joint. :-)


By the way, if anyone reading this is using a dado set on their Ridgid
table saw, you might want to check the model number of the saw before
you continue.

I ran across a recall notice on the R4511 model.
Apparently the arbor shaft fails when using stacked dado blades.

http://www.ridgid.com/Download/R4511_PR.pdf


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

My dad's advice - either buy the least expensive tool you can, or the
best quality tool you can.

On 1/29/2015 12:53 PM, DJ Delorie wrote:

My dad's advice - either buy the least expensive tool you can, or the
best quality tool you can.


Great advice! The problem from there would be knowing which you needed.
;~)

On 1/28/2015 2:53 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote:

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question
now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality,
or something in between?
-----------------------------------------------------
The old adage applies.

There is no such thing as a cheap tool.

There is the quality tool you buy once and move on to other tasks.

There is the low inital cost tool that doesn't quite do the job and
you
replace it with another low inital cost tool in hopes of solving the
quality issue. Sooner or later you buy the quality tool.

I bought the SD508 and yes it HURT at the time; however, knowing that
everytime I reach for the SD-508, it's going to do the job makes the
HURT go away a little faster.

Good luck.

Lew


Precicely!

A tool that gives you repeated good results and calls for you to use it
time and again is a great tool and you will seldom remember the sting of
the price.

On 1/29/2015 2:33 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/28/2015 2:53 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote:

I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question
now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality,
or something in between?
-----------------------------------------------------
The old adage applies.

There is no such thing as a cheap tool.

There is the quality tool you buy once and move on to other tasks.

There is the low inital cost tool that doesn't quite do the job and
you
replace it with another low inital cost tool in hopes of solving the
quality issue. Sooner or later you buy the quality tool.

I bought the SD508 and yes it HURT at the time; however, knowing that
everytime I reach for the SD-508, it's going to do the job makes the
HURT go away a little faster.

Good luck.

Lew


Precicely!

A tool that gives you repeated good results and calls for you to use it
time and again is a great tool and you will seldom remember the sting of
the price.

Going a bit further with that...

Almost two years ago I bought an industrial SawStop and can probably
only tell you withing $1000 how much I paid for it. This pretty much
holds true with all of my Festool tools.

Way over 15 years ago I bought a PC Detail Sander. WHAT A POS. Off the
top of my head I think I paid $129 for it. Looking that up for certain,
I paid $128.22 on 9/20/1996.

If you focus too much on what you pay for a tool you loose sight on what
you are trying to accomplish.