On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 8:31:25 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2015 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I tried my hand at stub tenon joints tonight and ran into an issue. I think may need to buy a stacked dado set.

I have an Excalibur twin blade dado set:

Too bad. Tkat's much more cove than you would normally get with a well
made, properly set up and mounted, two bladed wobble dado in good shape.

If you took the time to set it up properly and it makes that much cove
in 1/2", it is indeed a POS, so toss it.

The only "set-up" option I think I have is to reduce the width of the dado to the bare minimum required to cut the tenon and still use the fence as the length guide. That should reduce the wobble, but I don't know if it will be enough. It was getting late by the time I tested the Excalibur and I didn't want to spend any more time on it. The dog wanted to go out before bed and didn't seem to care that I was busy. I'll try again tonight.


Sorry it didn't work out for you, but I got the impression, since you
had a new router table, that you didn't want to spring for a stacked
dado set, so it was worth a try, eh?

Yes, it was definitely worth a try, but now that I've actually cut a stub tenon on the table saw, I can see that the method has it's merits. In addition, owning a decent dado blade has it's advantages too. However, I don't know that I can justify $200 for a Freud SD508. What are your thoughts on a SD208 for $85?

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-...eud+sd508+dado



Lots of ways to clean that up, low angle block plane, pattern makers
rasp, router table/straight bit, table saw with regular kerf blade, for
starters.

The only question is/was - do you want to take the time to clean them
up, or spend the money on a quality tool?


I believe the "quality tool" route is the way to go. The question now is: how much quality do I need? SD508 quality, SD208 quality, or something in between?