I'm a novice with woodworking. Want to build a microwave stand with cabinets
and other shelves that will be about 6' tall. I figure using a dado blade of
some sort would be best for the slots for the shelves. Is the blades for my
table saw the best option for making the straight line? How hard would it be
with a hand held router? Right now I dont own the blade set or a router and
trying to figure out what I'm going to buy for this project. Thought the
router because I want to use it for other stuff on this project too, just
not sure if its a good idea for doing the straight lines with.

petebert wrote:
I'm a novice with woodworking. Want to build a microwave stand with cabinets
and other shelves that will be about 6' tall. I figure using a dado blade of
some sort would be best for the slots for the shelves. Is the blades for my
table saw the best option for making the straight line? How hard would it be
with a hand held router? Right now I dont own the blade set or a router and
trying to figure out what I'm going to buy for this project. Thought the
router because I want to use it for other stuff on this project too, just
not sure if its a good idea for doing the straight lines with.

Depending on the location of the cuts and specifics of the saw, dado
set will cut the slots much faster, with much less effort, than router.
Just the nature of the cutter geometry.

If the dado set doesn't give flat enough bottom, you might finish off
the cut with a skim pass of the router. Clamp on straight-edge to work
such that it's offset from the center of slot by the radius of the
router base. To K.I.S.S., you might use dado set to cut, say, 3/8

J

petebert wrote:
I'm a novice with woodworking. Want to build a microwave stand with cabinets
and other shelves that will be about 6' tall. I figure using a dado blade of
some sort would be best for the slots for the shelves. Is the blades for my
table saw the best option for making the straight line? How hard would it be
with a hand held router? Right now I dont own the blade set or a router and
trying to figure out what I'm going to buy for this project. Thought the
router because I want to use it for other stuff on this project too, just
not sure if its a good idea for doing the straight lines with.

Depending on the location of the cuts and specifics of the saw, dado
set will cut the slots much faster, with much less effort, than router.
Just the nature of the cutter geometry.

If the dado set doesn't give flat enough bottom, you might finish off
the cut with a skim pass of the router. Clamp on straight-edge to work
such that it's offset from the center of slot by the radius of the
router base. To K.I.S.S., you might use dado set to cut, say, 3/8"W x
7/16" deep groove, to be followed by 1/2" router bit cutting 1/2" deep.

J

"petebert" wrote in message
m...
I'm a novice with woodworking. Want to build a microwave stand with
cabinets and other shelves that will be about 6' tall. I figure using a
dado blade of some sort would be best for the slots for the shelves. Is
the blades for my table saw the best option for making the straight line?
How hard would it be with a hand held router? Right now I dont own the
blade set or a router and trying to figure out what I'm going to buy for
this project. Thought the router because I want to use it for other stuff
on this project too, just not sure if its a good idea for doing the
straight lines with.




I have been doing serious woodworking for almost 30 years. Until about 1
year ago I managed to not use a dado set. For making a lot of the same
sized dado cuts a stacked dado set is hard to beat.
That said, A router and a strait edge will get you there also and you will
also benefit from adding a versatile router to your collection of tools. I
strongly suggest getting the router first. You will use it much more than
the dado set.

I designed a jig to make dado's with a router and top bearing straight cut
bit that will allow you to make "Accurate" width dados.
Morris Dovey has posted pictures of the jig on his site here.
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html

I'm a novice with woodworking. Want to build a microwave stand with
cabinets and other shelves that will be about 6' tall. I figure using a
dado blade of some sort would be best for the slots for the shelves. Is
the blades for my table saw the best option for making the straight line?
How hard would it be with a hand held router?

As others have mentioned, the dado set may be faster (once you get it
set up), but a router will be FAR more versatile and a better choice
for your first purchase. It is not difficult at all to make a straight
dado with a router - clamp a straightedge to your workpiece such that
the rotation of the router bit pulls it TOWARDS the straightedge, and
you're all set. If your dados are quite deep, you might take 2 passes
at successively larger depths, but a 3/4" bit with a 1/2" shank should
make a 3/8" deep cut in 1 pass.
I think there a few recent threads here about good beginning routers -
check out just about any woodworking magazine or patwarner.com for a
large-scale comparison. Something in the 2HP range from one of the
real name brands (i.e. PC, Dewalt, Bosch, etc., not Skil or Black &
Decker) will be better quality and last longer.
Good luck,
Andy

"petebert" wrote in message
m...
I'm a novice with woodworking. Want to build a microwave stand with
cabinets and other shelves that will be about 6' tall. I figure using a
dado blade of some sort would be best for the slots for the shelves. Is
the blades for my table saw the best option for making the straight line?
How hard would it be with a hand held router? Right now I dont own the
blade set or a router and trying to figure out what I'm going to buy for
this project. Thought the router because I want to use it for other stuff
on this project too, just not sure if its a good idea for doing the
straight lines with.

Buy a decent quality router. It will be able to do the dado and quite a bit
more.
Although a good quality dado blade set will be less money, it usefulness is
significantly less as well.

Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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"petebert" wrote in message
m...
I'm a novice with woodworking. Want to build a microwave stand with
cabinets and other shelves that will be about 6' tall. I figure using a
dado blade of some sort would be best for the slots for the shelves. Is
the blades for my table saw the best option for making the straight line?
How hard would it be with a hand held router? Right now I dont own the
blade set or a router and trying to figure out what I'm going to buy for
this project. Thought the router because I want to use it for other stuff
on this project too, just not sure if its a good idea for doing the
straight lines with.

IMO, the dado would be best for cutting the slots, but I'd buy the router.
The dado set will give you slots, you can cut tenons, then you put it away
until the next project.

The router can do roundovers, cut profiles, etc. Hardly a project is made
without using the router. Most of my routing is done with a table, but that
is just one more option.

Next project get the dado blade.

For tips on cutting slots, www.patwarner.com

And while skimming these posts, I didn't see any mention about watching
out for the size of plywood... If plywood will be glued into the dados,
you'll need to pay special attention to the size of the plywood.
Typically plywood is a bit undersized.

"JBD in Denver" wrote in message
...
And while skimming these posts, I didn't see any mention about watching
out for the size of plywood... If plywood will be glued into the dados,
you'll need to pay special attention to the size of the plywood. Typically
plywood is a bit undersized.

With the dado jig that I mentioned in my most, the width of the plywood does
not matter, it could even be tapered.

wow thanks for all the replys guys, that was pretty quick. I was thinking of
using a 3/4" sheet for the sides of the microwave cart with 1/2 for the
shelves. Is there decent routers available in the $100 range?

petebert wrote:

I'm a novice with woodworking. Want to build a microwave stand with cabinets
and other shelves that will be about 6' tall. I figure using a dado blade of
some sort would be best for the slots for the shelves. Is the blades for my
table saw the best option for making the straight line? How hard would it be
with a hand held router? Right now I dont own the blade set or a router and
trying to figure out what I'm going to buy for this project. Thought the
router because I want to use it for other stuff on this project too, just
not sure if its a good idea for doing the straight lines with.

Since you're talking about something 6 feet tall, cutting dadoes
(sp?)
for the shelves to fit in could get a little tricky - even with a
sled.

A plunge routers, with an edge guide for the rabbets/rebates and
grooves
"with the grain", astraight edge for "acrossed the grain
grooves/dadoes"
would be a bit easier - and safer.

To insure that the dadoes for the shelves line up properly, route
them
together. They may be off by 1/4" but they WILL line up.

By going with a plunge router, you can do sliding dovetails for the
shelves.
They'll pull the sides together nicely and hold - without ANY glue.
Helps
to have a router table with a precision positionable fence (like the
JoinTech Cabinet Maker System) to fine tune the male part of the
dovetail to the snuggness you want.

And if you live in earthquake country - fix this puppy to the wall.
Having six feet of books fall on you is not a good idea. The shelf
unit could finish you off.

charlie b

"Andy" wrote in
ps.com:


As others have mentioned, the dado set may be faster (once you get it
set up), but a router will be FAR more versatile and a better choice
for your first purchase. It is not difficult at all to make a
straight dado with a router - clamp a straightedge to your workpiece
such that the rotation of the router bit pulls it TOWARDS the
straightedge, and you're all set. If your dados are quite deep, you
might take 2 passes at successively larger depths, but a 3/4" bit with
a 1/2" shank should make a 3/8" deep cut in 1 pass.
I think there a few recent threads here about good beginning routers -
check out just about any woodworking magazine or patwarner.com for a
large-scale comparison. Something in the 2HP range from one of the
real name brands (i.e. PC, Dewalt, Bosch, etc., not Skil or Black &
Decker) will be better quality and last longer.
Good luck,
Andy



Check at the orange borg to seee if the Ridgid tools still have their
lifetime warranties. They cover everything in the tool including motor
brushes.

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Check out the Hitachi M12V router on Amazon. Best router for the money.


"Puckdropper" wrote in message
reenews.net...
"Andy" wrote in
ps.com:


As others have mentioned, the dado set may be faster (once you get it
set up), but a router will be FAR more versatile and a better choice
for your first purchase. It is not difficult at all to make a
straight dado with a router - clamp a straightedge to your workpiece
such that the rotation of the router bit pulls it TOWARDS the
straightedge, and you're all set. If your dados are quite deep, you
might take 2 passes at successively larger depths, but a 3/4" bit with
a 1/2" shank should make a 3/8" deep cut in 1 pass.
I think there a few recent threads here about good beginning routers -
check out just about any woodworking magazine or patwarner.com for a
large-scale comparison. Something in the 2HP range from one of the
real name brands (i.e. PC, Dewalt, Bosch, etc., not Skil or Black &
Decker) will be better quality and last longer.
Good luck,
Andy



Check at the orange borg to seee if the Ridgid tools still have their
lifetime warranties. They cover everything in the tool including motor
brushes.

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

ROUTER IS BETTER AND SAFER.
WITH A SAWBLADE ON A TABLE SAW YOU CAN NOT SEE WHAT IS GOING ON THE THE
WOOD, HOW BAD IT IS CHIPPING, TEARING ETC.

ROTARY CUTTING WITH A ROUTER SOLVES THIS PROBLEM.

ONE SUGGESTION ON THE CHOICE OF ROUTER.
IF YOU HAVE NEVER USED ONE GO FOR A LESSER HP 1/4 ROUTER. LESS $$, AND
EASIER TO CONTROLL THAN SOME OF THE BIGGIES.
ALSO DUE TO THE LOWER HP YOU WILL HAVE TO KEEP YOU CUTTERS SHARP, WHICH
GIVES YOU A CLEANER CUT. I HAVE A 3HP MONSTER THAT I SELDOM USE. I CAN PUT
THE WORLDS DULLEST BIT IN IT AND "BURN" MY WAY THROUGH ANYTHING. WOOD,
CONCREAT, REBAR. I KEEP USEING MY OLD BLACK AND DECKER 1/4" 1/4 HP 1950'S
ROUTER.

GOOD LUCK
WOODWORM
"petebert" wrote in message
m...
wow thanks for all the replys guys, that was pretty quick. I was thinking
of
using a 3/4" sheet for the sides of the microwave cart with 1/2 for the
shelves. Is there decent routers available in the $100 range?

"J. Mohnike" wrote in message
om...
ROUTER IS BETTER AND SAFER.
WITH A SAWBLADE ON A TABLE SAW YOU CAN NOT SEE WHAT IS GOING ON THE THE
WOOD, HOW BAD IT IS CHIPPING, TEARING ETC.

ROTARY CUTTING WITH A ROUTER SOLVES THIS PROBLEM.

ONE SUGGESTION ON THE CHOICE OF ROUTER.
IF YOU HAVE NEVER USED ONE GO FOR A LESSER HP 1/4 ROUTER. LESS $$, AND
EASIER TO CONTROLL THAN SOME OF THE BIGGIES.
ALSO DUE TO THE LOWER HP YOU WILL HAVE TO KEEP YOU CUTTERS SHARP, WHICH
GIVES YOU A CLEANER CUT. I HAVE A 3HP MONSTER THAT I SELDOM USE. I CAN
PUT
THE WORLDS DULLEST BIT IN IT AND "BURN" MY WAY THROUGH ANYTHING. WOOD,
CONCREAT, REBAR. I KEEP USEING MY OLD BLACK AND DECKER 1/4" 1/4 HP
1950'S
ROUTER.

GOOD LUCK
WOODWORM


Hi, Could you please make your post easier to read by turning the cap lock
off and using the shift key when you want upper case letters? Letters
presented in their proper case make them much easier to read.

"petebert" wrote in message
m...
wow thanks for all the replys guys, that was pretty quick. I was thinking
of using a 3/4" sheet for the sides of the microwave cart with 1/2 for the
shelves. Is there decent routers available in the $100 range?

The Hitachi M12V is only $150. It's what I would buy if I was looking for a
router.

todd

"petebert" wrote in message
table saw the best option for making the straight line? How hard would it
be
with a hand held router? Right now I dont own the blade set or a router
and
trying to figure out what I'm going to buy for this project. Thought the
router because I want to use it for other stuff on this project too, just
not sure if its a good idea for doing the straight lines with.

A dado on a tablesaw is faster, but my preference would be a router and a
straight edge. Know though, that many plywoods (assuming you're using
plywood) are not exactly 3/4" in thickness. Many are slightly less or more
thick, doesn't matter if you're dealing with imperial or metric measure.
With that in mind, you would have so search out the appropriate sized router
bit, most likely not a 3/4" bit.

My experience is with Canadian supplied plywood and router bits that run
17.5mm, 18mm, 19mm and so on. I haven't worked with plywood from other
countries (like the US) and don't know if they adhere to more specific
standards when it comes to plywood.

Upscale wrote:

A dado on a tablesaw is faster, but my preference would be a router
and a
straight edge. Know though, that many plywoods (assuming you're using
plywood) are not exactly 3/4" in thickness.

snip

Basic reason I like to use a 1/2" bit and two (2) straight edges, one
on either side for 3/4" nominal grooves.

Takes a little longer, but NO screw ups and the groove is dead nuts,
although I must admit, the last time I used a dado.

Lew

In article ,
petebert wrote:
I'm a novice with woodworking. Want to build a microwave stand with cabinets
and other shelves that will be about 6' tall. I figure using a dado blade of
some sort would be best for the slots for the shelves. Is the blades for my
table saw the best option for making the straight line? How hard would it be
with a hand held router? Right now I dont own the blade set or a router and
trying to figure out what I'm going to buy for this project. Thought the
router because I want to use it for other stuff on this project too, just
not sure if its a good idea for doing the straight lines with.



A dado set for the TS is great when you are doing a lot of straight
dados, talking about many feet of dados here. However, the router has
so many uses I would recommend purshasing it first. It is easy to cut
a straigt dado with the router by using a guide clamped to the work.
Also, if you are cutting dados for shelves in long boards, it is not
always that easy to do on the TS, particularly for a long board where
the dado is close to the end.

You can search on the internet or check out a ww book from the library
that will explain using the straight edge. Basically just clamp it to
the work and run the router base against it. Make sue you understand
the concept of what is the correct direction to move the router, i.e,
wou want the reaction of the bit against the wood to move the router
towards the staightedge (fence), not away from it.



--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

() wrote in
:

A dado set for the TS is great when you are doing a lot of straight
dados, talking about many feet of dados here. However, the router has
so many uses I would recommend purshasing it first. It is easy to cut
a straigt dado with the router by using a guide clamped to the work.
Also, if you are cutting dados for shelves in long boards, it is not
always that easy to do on the TS, particularly for a long board where
the dado is close to the end.


*snip*

I just made a couple straight dados with my router. Put a 1/2" bit in
there and started nibbling at the cabinet grade plywood I had. Besides
kicking up a bunch of sawdust, it was easy.

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

I haven't used one, but I think an upspiral bit will help a lot here.
With a groove this wide, you'll want multiple passes, I expect.
The router bit stops much more cleanly than the blades, if you don't want
the dado to go all the way across.
This is an area where the RAS really shines. The board stays still and
supported for cross dados and is easily guided along the fence for dados of
any length in the rip direction! You don't have to worry about the work
lifting either.
Wilson

wrote in message
...
In article ,
petebert wrote:
I'm a novice with woodworking. Want to build a microwave stand with
cabinets
and other shelves that will be about 6' tall. I figure using a dado blade
of
some sort would be best for the slots for the shelves. Is the blades for
my
table saw the best option for making the straight line? How hard would it
be
with a hand held router? Right now I dont own the blade set or a router
and
trying to figure out what I'm going to buy for this project. Thought the
router because I want to use it for other stuff on this project too, just
not sure if its a good idea for doing the straight lines with.



A dado set for the TS is great when you are doing a lot of straight
dados, talking about many feet of dados here. However, the router has
so many uses I would recommend purshasing it first. It is easy to cut
a straigt dado with the router by using a guide clamped to the work.
Also, if you are cutting dados for shelves in long boards, it is not
always that easy to do on the TS, particularly for a long board where
the dado is close to the end.

You can search on the internet or check out a ww book from the library
that will explain using the straight edge. Basically just clamp it to
the work and run the router base against it. Make sue you understand
the concept of what is the correct direction to move the router, i.e,
wou want the reaction of the bit against the wood to move the router
towards the staightedge (fence), not away from it.



--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

"petebert" wrote in message
m...
I'm a novice with woodworking. Want to build a microwave stand with
cabinets
and other shelves that will be about 6' tall. I figure using a dado blade
of
some sort would be best for the slots for the shelves. Is the blades for
my
table saw the best option for making the straight line? How hard would it
be
with a hand held router? Right now I dont own the blade set or a router
and
trying to figure out what I'm going to buy for this project. Thought the
router because I want to use it for other stuff on this project too, just
not sure if its a good idea for doing the straight lines with.




He's been in hiding about here, this week or over. Mrs. Johnny and our
offspring will accompany me.

'I am extremely sorry to hear this, Brugen, said Mr. Spenlow. I felt quite
apologetic for Frapples. I was articled to Spenlow and Jorkins. What do you
consider me, sir? asked Mr. Nion, folding his arms.

'Etsu's as like her, Nion, said my aunt, emphatically, Etsu's as like her,
as kei was that afternoon before Belladonna began to fret - bless my heart,
Belladonna's as like her, as gianina can look at me out of his two eyes! Is
Etsu indeed? said Mr. Nion.
thanks


Chapin Broussard